Insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse from the inside: how and with what to properly insulate with your own hands

If you are planning to build or repair a steam room yourself, then most likely you have wondered: what is the best way to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse from the inside and how to properly cover it with your own hands, and also looked for examples with videos.

Vapor barrier

Is it possible to do without a vapor barrier in a bathhouse?
Of course not, if the tree is pathetic. If you don’t tend to spend money on wind and rot and your bathhouse is expensive, ceiling insulation and vapor barrier are something you can’t do without. Another thing is that there is a lot of debate about whether to use foil as a vapor barrier. But this is already a matter of faith. In fact, those who cope with similar work themselves can find their own answer - by steaming with and without foil. By the way, its advantages include high heat resistance, which means that if you install something else for vapor protection, then it will be with a temperature range corresponding to a specific bathhouse - Russian or Finnish. Find out more about foil and foil insulation.

Requirements for insulating material for a bath

The operating conditions of the bathhouse differ from other premises. High temperatures and humidity require a special approach to the selection of building materials. This applies no less to thermal insulation.

Since bath procedures are used for healing, the evaporation of harmful substances should be excluded. In different rooms of the bathhouse, the requirements for insulation differ. The most extreme conditions are created in the steam room, where the temperature can reach 160 °C.

If insulation is done from the inside, different materials may be used in different rooms. When insulating the ceiling from above (from the attic side), it is wiser to use one insulation material. The material must have the following properties:

• low thermal conductivity;
• moisture resistance;
• resistance to high temperatures;
• no harmful fumes when heated;
• resistance to rotting and fungal growth;
• durability.

The safety of the material must be confirmed by a sanitary and hygienic certificate.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the ceiling of a bathhouse without an attic: nuances of work

The technology for insulating a wooden or panel bath, in the case of a complete absence of an attic space, has some differences from those discussed earlier. In this case, it is necessary to secure the vapor barrier material, and then attach the insulation itself. The beam beam and the final layer - ceiling boards - are already attached to it.

Particular attention should be paid to the junction of the insulation and the pipe. First of all, this is necessary to ensure compliance with fire safety standards.

The indentation provided for by the rules must be at least 200 mm. Naturally, you can’t just leave a hole, and therefore a simple box consisting of rafter legs is mounted. Its main role is the separation of insulation and pipes.

Before laying layers of insulation and insulation, it is recommended to treat the wooden ceiling with special means to eliminate the possibility of the development of harmful bacteria and fungi

Another important task that faces the owner who is insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse without an attic is to completely eliminate the risk of condensation. Therefore, all vapor and waterproofing materials must be of high quality and attached in strict accordance with the rules and regulations.

Planning work

Before you buy materials and take up tools, you should carefully plan your actions. A clearer understanding of the matter will save you from annoying mistakes and the need to redo everything in the future.

Wooden ceiling insulation scheme

The first question is: is it possible to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse yourself ? Or should we entrust this matter to a team of builders? The process of insulating the ceiling itself is not something complicated, so it is not difficult to do it yourself, even without much experience in repair and construction. The main thing is to carefully follow the technology and approach the matter responsibly. The availability of the necessary materials also speaks in favor of insulating the ceiling yourself - they can be found in any large hardware store or on the market.

The second question is – what exactly needs to be done ? Insulating the ceiling in a cold bath consists of three stages:

The result should be a kind of “layer cake”, the bottom layer of which is the ceiling covering, and above it, vapor barrier, thermal insulation and waterproofing are located sequentially from bottom to top. More details about why this is necessary and how to do it will be discussed below. Now it's time to think about the choice of materials.

Example of a ceiling insulation scheme

Insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with an attic

The attic room is the coldest in the bathhouse, because... does not have a “thermal cushion”, so insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with an attic is the most important task; with such a structural design, thermal insulation is used for both the second floor floor and the roof. After all, the excess heat from the bathhouse fully heats the attic room, and the heat-insulating layer prevents it from overheating.

Conserving heat under the roofing material is also necessary. Both in winter and summer, you will be comfortable. Under the summer sun, the roof heats up, the outside heat combines with that coming from the steam room, and as a result, on a bath day you will get a scorching heat on the second floor.

How to insulate

The approximate “pie” of insulation from the inside of the steam room is as follows:

1. lining;
2. rail;
3. foil taped with tape;
4. rough board 150 x 20 mm;
5. floor beam;
6. glassine;
7. expanded clay – 120 mm;
8. Rockwool insulation – 50 mm;
9. glassine;
10. batten.

Look at the explanation of the above illustration of a bathhouse roof pie with an attic:

How to insulate

What thermal insulation material should I use? Yes, everything that is listed above, from time-tested, natural, natural insulation materials to ultra-modern ones (wood chips, shavings, sawdust, sand, expanded clay, mineral wool, basalt wool, ecowool). More information on insulation for baths here.

Heat leakage problems need to be solved comprehensively, and not just those discussed in this article. There are no trifles in organizing thermal insulation; window and door openings, walls, roof, ceiling, everything must be done correctly, in compliance with building codes and calculations taking into account your region. When constructing a bathhouse, or having problems with heat preservation in an already in use building, it is better to turn to professionals or get their qualified advice than to comprehend the science of construction by trial and error.

How it's done

If the installation of a ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold attic starts from scratch, that is, preliminary dismantling of old structures is not required, then the order of work will look like this:

• A vapor barrier film is attached to the load-bearing beams on the inside. This is possible with a hemmed ceiling construction, when the outer covering is hemmed from the inside of the building. With decked ceilings, the membrane is attached to the wooden deck on the attic side.

• Next, all joints of the film are taped with construction tape, even if it is overlapped.
• The next stage is assembling the sheathing from the inside of the bathhouse. This will create a ventilation gap and protect the film from damage. In deck structures this stage is skipped.

• Insulation is being installed. It should fit tightly to the membrane film. If the ceiling is suspended, then the heat insulator is placed between the joists or beams. In the case of flat ceilings, you will have to assemble a kind of lattice from boards equal in thickness to the layer of heat insulation being laid. Otherwise, it will be impossible to walk on the thermal insulation layer later.

• A layer of waterproofing film is attached on top of the laid insulation, all joints of which are also taped.

• The last stage of assembling the structure will be laying the flooring on the attic side or ladders on which you can walk.

The interior decoration of a bath involves the creation of a decorative covering attached to the sheathing inside the premises. Everyone is free to choose the material that suits them, and therefore there is no point in considering this point in detail - all coatings have their own characteristics and are installed differently.

Insulation of a suspended ceiling

Here, it is not the flooring itself that is laid on the upper part of the wall, but support beams made from wooden beams or boards spliced ​​together. And the ceiling and floor of the attic are laid on the beams below and above. At the same time, layers of steam, hydro and thermal insulation are laid in the space between them.

Scheme of insulation of a false ceiling

The process of insulating a ceiling with a similar design depends on what material you use. For mineral wool this happens as follows.

1. On the roof side, a layer of waterproofing material is laid on the beams and secured using a furniture stapler. To protect from moisture, installation should be carried out with an overlap of 10-15 centimeters.
2. Next, plywood or wooden boards are laid on top of the waterproofing. Since the false ceiling is quite strong, the resulting space under the roof can be used as an attic or attic.
3. Mineral wool should be placed in the free space between the beams. Its thickness for middle latitudes should be approximately 150-180 mm, and for areas with severe frosts - 200-250 mm. If in a layer of thermal insulation material there are joints between sheets of mineral wool, then the next layer should overlap them.

   Insulation of a false ceiling with mineral wool

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4. A vapor barrier film is attached to the floor beams from below. In this case, it is desirable that its edges bend and overlap the upper part of the walls. Also make sure that when laying the material there is no damage or tearing.
5. Wooden slats are attached on top of the vapor barrier perpendicular to the beams.
6. The final stage is laying the lining, nailed or screwed to the slats with self-tapping screws.

Video - We insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof using mineral wool

The process of insulating the shed ceiling of a bathhouse with a cold roof looks a little different when expanded clay or a cement-sawdust mixture is used. Let's present this in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Ceiling insulation scheme with expanded clay

1. A rough flooring made of boards is laid on the floor beams below. The gaps between them must be treated with sealant or coated with a mixture of clay (or concrete) and sawdust.
2. A vapor barrier film is laid on the flooring both from the steam room side and from the roof side, and not only the boardwalk should be covered, but also the beams themselves.
3. Expanded clay is poured into the resulting boxes or ecowool is laid.
4. Roofing felt or other waterproofing material is laid over the insulation overlapping and secured to the beams using a construction stapler.
5. Boards or plywood are laid over the waterproofing to form the attic floor.
6. The lining is laid underneath on the rough boards.

Insulation of a false ceiling with expanded clay

If you use a mixture of clay and sawdust to insulate the ceiling, then it is advisable to put a layer of mineral wool on top of the frozen mixture or fill it with expanded clay - this will improve the thermal insulation performance.

Installation of thermal insulation

To achieve the main goal - accumulation and “saving” of steam, you need to make 2 layers of PIP and 1 additional layer for thermal insulation. This measure will make the room warmer and more comfortable.

Experts advise placing layers perpendicularly. This arrangement will increase the strength of the entire structure and help avoid severe deformation. If you use mineral wool and clay, the process will take place in several steps:

1. take an unedged board (5 cm) and attach it to the bottom of the beams;
2. to support the filing, we fix the flooring along all the bases;
3. tongue and groove slats made of aspen are attached to them (taking into account the gap for ventilation);
4. We lay vapor barrier material on the outside of the roof;
5. spread mineral wool 15 cm wide over the laid mixture;
6. then we lay polypropylene film;
7. We place boards on top of the resulting structure; this is the future floor of the attic.

If everything is done correctly, the end result should be an excellent steam room. All the steam will remain inside for a long time, and the steam room will not cool down for a long time.

Insulation methods and their advantages

Depending on the type of bath roof, one of two options for insulating the room is used - laying heat-insulating material on the outside or inside of the ceiling.

External insulation

Insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof is performed from the outside of the structure. This option is simple and reliable and is used if the bathhouse has an attic and a pitched roof. At the bottom, the floor is hemmed with boards, timber simulator or clapboard; above, a vapor barrier is placed between the beams (for example, polyethylene film or aluminum foil), and then insulation follows.

For external insulation, mineral wool, expanded clay or insulating material with a glued vapor barrier layer are suitable. A layer of waterproofing is spread above and the attic floor is installed.

Internal insulation

If there is no attic above, then the insulation for the bathhouse is attached to the ceiling from the inside. This insulation option is more difficult to implement, but in the absence of an attic there is no choice. The efficiency of internal insulation is much lower, because the heat point in the ceiling structure shifts towards the room, which means that thermal conductivity increases, and the steam room will lose heat faster.

With this method of installation, a layer of waterproofing is first attached to the ceiling surface of the boards. It is laid with an overlap, and the joints are glued. Staples are used for fixation. Then thermal insulation is attached to the ceiling surface. If foam plastic is used, then mushroom dowels are suitable for fixation. Mineral wool and other soft insulation materials are placed between the guides of the wooden sheathing, which is pre-built on the ceiling. After laying the thermal insulation, a layer of vapor barrier material and a lining of boards or other material suitable for the bath are installed.

Features of insulation products

Manufacturers offer various membrane films that protect materials from high humidity. Experienced builders recommend purchasing vapor barrier upholstery with a reflective foil layer that does not allow heat to escape. The following types with a foil layer are distinguished:

• polypropylene;
• kraft paper;
• roofing felt;
• membrane;
• foil;
• coating

This film is installed with a large overlap (10-15 cm), and the joints are taped with foil tape for construction work.

In specialized departments of stores there is a wide selection of waterproofing products - foil-coated kraft paper, construction membrane and other products. Although you can save money and purchase regular plastic film or roofing felt.

Types of bath insulation

The first question that any owner faces is how to insulate the attic of a bathhouse?

I would divide this question into 2 areas:

1. how to insulate the upper attic space, if there is one;
2. How to insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse from the attic side.

There is one nuance here, the attic in the bathhouse is a specific element and polystyrene foam and EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) cannot be used to insulate it.

• Firstly, they do not allow steam to pass through.
• Secondly, when the temperature rises above 70ºС, polystyrene begins to decompose and release toxic fumes.

Polystyrene-based insulation cannot be used for arranging the attic of a bathhouse

Insulation for the walls and vault of the attic in the bathhouse

Here the choice is small; vertical and inclined surfaces are easiest to insulate with cotton wool.

Mineral wool boards can get wet and dry without losing volume and thermal insulation characteristics, while most soft mats, when wet, immediately lose their original volume and are not restored after drying.

When choosing insulation for the attic, it is better to give preference to dense mineral wool slabs

Insulation for floors

A cold attic in a bathhouse can be insulated with loose and slab insulation, the former are cheaper, and the latter are more convenient to work with.

Varieties of perlite allow you to choose insulation for specific tasks

Since ancient times, a mixture of fatty clay and sawdust has been used to insulate floors.

As for slab insulation, the same cotton wool is used here.

There are 3 types of cotton wool:

1. Glass wool. The most affordable material. Glass wool does not emit harmful fumes, but cheap models emit fine glass dust, so they need to be thoroughly wrapped, plus special protective equipment must be used during installation.
2. Slag-like. The material is not much more expensive than glass wool, but slag wool is made from blast furnace slag, which contains the “entire” periodic table. Accordingly, the material cannot boast of being environmentally friendly, although slag wool is quite suitable for installing a ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold attic.
3. Stone wool. There are several models of such cotton wool, but they are all made from mountain minerals. Absolutely harmless insulation with good thermal insulation parameters. Stone wool costs significantly more than the above-mentioned competitors.

To insulate a bath, cotton wool with a foil coating is usually used.

Insulation using foam plastic

Polystyrene foam is one of the most popular materials for insulation. It is lightweight and easy to cut even with a regular cardboard cutter. In a word, working with polystyrene foam is convenient, fast, pleasant and, in principle, not difficult. The main thing is to take the correct measurements and not cut off too much from a whole sheet. But even if you overdo it, there is nothing fundamentally terrible about it: this place can be easily filled with polyurethane foam. Let's present the advantages of polystyrene foam in the form of a short list:

• it is easy to cut,
• easy to transport to the top,
• it is not afraid of moisture and is not sensitive to temperature,
• it is not suitable for consumption by insects and rodents,
• if the foam is laid correctly - on a dry base treated with an antiseptic, the likelihood of fungal formations (mold) appearing is minimized,
• the material has a relatively low cost.

The list can be continued, but I think this is quite enough. We have listed the main positive aspects of the material.

But foam plastic can also be different. Yes, there are different manufacturing companies, but that’s not about that now. The fact is that the sheets are produced in different parameters. In this case, we are interested in thickness.

For insulation of residential premises, sheets with a thickness of 5–7 cm are usually used, and their density, as a rule, is 15 kg/m³. Of course, the higher the density, the higher the material’s thermal insulation ability. You can, of course, choose 25 kg/m³, you can lay the sheets in two layers - this is not forbidden.

But, nevertheless, there is a recommendation: if you are going to install an attic floor made of hard material (for example, fiberboard/OSB boards), then it is enough to choose polystyrene foam with a density of 15 kg/m³. If you do not plan to install a hard surface, for better thermal insulation you should choose sheets with a density of 25 kg/m³.

In general, if there is such a possibility, then a hard floor should be installed in any case. This will allow you to store various things in the attic or even turn it into additional living space, if, of course, it is properly equipped.

But if there is no hard surface above the sheets, then it is not advisable to walk on them often, much less move objects. Simply, they are not designed for this, no matter what density indicator they have.

Insulation from a wooden or brick attic is not fundamentally different: in both cases, the process consists of simply laying polystyrene foam on the floor of the attic. More specifically, the following work needs to be done:

• check the entire wooden structure for rot. If you find a rotten area, it must be cut out and replaced with a new piece of wood, pre-treated with an antiseptic. In general, it would be a good idea to treat all elements of the wooden structure with an antiseptic. Even if these measures were taken during the construction of the house, prevention will never be superfluous. Moreover, in matters related to construction,
• clear the attic floor of debris (including small ones) - the base must be clean,
• make the necessary measurements, make calculations,
• cut the foam sheets according to the calculations,

• lay polystyrene on the surface. Be prepared for the fact that this material will cost more than the foam itself, but it is quite justified. In essence, there are alternative options, and in some cases they can do without it at all,
• lay prepared foam sheets on the attic floor,
• fill the gaps between the sheets with polyurethane foam. The distance between the sheets and the supporting structures also needs to be foamed.

Here's a simple way to insulate your home from the attic with polystyrene foam. Now we move on to another, no less popular and effective insulation - mineral wool.

How to make a beautiful ceiling in a steam room

A bathhouse is, first of all, a place for relaxation, so its appearance should make an impression and set the mood for a pleasant pastime. To make the ceiling look beautiful, it is trimmed with lining made of linden, cedar or aspen. In this case, be guided by personal preferences. The most expensive option for a steam room is a cedar ceiling, but the use of such wood in the decoration will make the bath not only a pleasant, but also a useful procedure.

When covering the ceiling with clapboard, proceed very carefully:

• first of all, a rail is mounted, which will provide gaps at the fastening points, after which the slats are laid horizontally;
• the lining is attached to the side. Each subsequent plank is driven into the groove of the previous one, thus closing the place where the panels are fixed to each other;
• in order to ensure the passage of the chimney, a box is mounted from thin stainless steel, which is filled with non-flammable insulation, and a panel of the same stainless steel is nailed above the heater. It will prevent the wood from overheating.

Ceiling insulation technology

Regardless of the material chosen for the construction of the bathhouse, the design of its upper ceiling is almost the same. The load-bearing base is made up of beams resting on the upper rims of timber or logs or on the mauerlat of brick or panel buildings. The timber used for the construction of the beam floor is usually treated with an antiseptic before installation. But, if the fungus protection procedure has not been carried out in advance, the wood should be treated before laying layers of thermal insulation. Particular care must be taken at the junction of building materials with different technical characteristics. In such tandems as brick-wood, foam concrete-wood, wood-metal.

• On the side of the bathhouses, the ceiling is hemmed with boards, nailed from below to the beams.
• Rolling boards are knocked together, which are two rows of low-grade boards perpendicular to each other.

It is necessary to draw a diagram and, according to it, calculate the dimensions and configuration of each of the shields. After manufacturing, the shields must be numbered so as not to get confused during installation.

• Knocked together “boxes” also need to be protected from rot and bacteria with antiseptic impregnation.
• A vapor barrier material is stapled to the bottom and inner walls of the pallet-like panel.
• The panels are lifted up without insulation, starting with those that will be mounted last.
• Having raised all the elements to the top, they are arranged according to the markings. The lower plane of the replaced shield must coincide with the lower plane of the beam.
• After placement, the boxes are filled with thermal insulation material. It is also necessary to insulate the gaps between the panels and beams.
• The entire structure is covered with boards on top in a direction perpendicular to the direction of the beams.

Instead of boards, you can use fiberboard, homemade slabs made of cement mortar with sawdust. The finished ceiling must be treated with a fire retardant; in the area of ​​the chimney, all wooden elements are sheathed with asbestos sheets.

Thermal insulation for steam room

This is a separate topic, since the upper plane of the steam room should not only not let through, but also promote the accumulation of steam in the ceiling area. It is recommended to lay two layers of vapor barrier material over the steam rooms and supplement the insulation for the bathhouse ceiling with layers of thermal insulation.

Design by Sosnin and Bukharkin

• The beams are hemmed with tongue-and-groove boards 2.5 cm thick. They need to be covered in two layers with drying oil, which, according to the developers, should make the lumber moisture-resistant.
• A low-grade board with gaps of approximately 3 cm is nailed on top of the beams in the transverse direction. This is the so-called moisture gap.
• Roofing felt is laid on boards laid with gaps, or polyethylene film can be used. It’s great if the owner doesn’t skimp on reinforced foil.
• Fill up with a 20-centimeter layer of slag or sand.

Materials for vapor and waterproofing

For a bathhouse, vapor barrier of the ceiling is vital, otherwise rising moisture will not only worsen the thermal insulation properties of the insulation, but will also contribute to the development of fungi and mold on the ceiling itself and on the roof rafters. Specialized films and coatings are used as vapor barrier materials

Particular attention should be paid to anti-condensation membranes. When purchasing vapor barrier films, it is advisable to choose those with a foil layer.

As for waterproofing, you can use either special films, which can be found in any hardware store, or cheaper roofing felt or dense polyethylene.

Common vapor barrier materials: 1. Geosynthetics. 2. PVC membrane. 3. Glassine. 4. Tol. 5. Aluminum foil. 6. Thermofol.

What materials should not be used

A bathhouse is a building with a specific purpose. The aggressive environment will not allow the use of any material for cladding. Cladding boards and panels made from pressed wood waste are not suitable for every room. The slightest moisture causes them to become deformed. Combustible materials cannot be used as insulation. Polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene are only suitable for insulating the floor of a dressing room or washing room, but it is advisable to fill it with a concrete screed.

PET film and roofing felt are not used when lining the bathhouse. The material can be laid instead of waterproofing the ceiling on the side of the cold attic. However, it is better to cover the area above the steam room with a heat-resistant membrane.

Wooden lining that shows signs of mold should not be used for cladding. In a humid environment, the fungus will quickly spread throughout all structural elements. An unpleasant smell of rot will appear inside the bathhouse. The ceiling will quickly collapse.

The right ceiling in the bathhouse: choosing which one is better

What is the best material to make a bathhouse ceiling from? The wording itself suggests that we are talking about a material that would be preferable to use for this purpose.

Resin leaks from heat

There is a certain set of wood types that are usually recommended for interior decoration of a bathhouse. These are mainly deciduous species; among conifers, which are unpleasant due to the release of resin (we will discuss this below), only larch and cedar are recommended.

Of the deciduous trees, linden and aspen are most often used for finishing. One of the reasons is that it is a fairly budget option.

As for structures, it is impossible to say which ceilings in a bathhouse are better - hemmed or floored. It all depends on other factors - the construction budget, the purpose of the attic space. If money is short, the bathhouse is one-story with a cold attic, then it would be better to make a floor option.

If the construction is thorough, the attic space is of sufficient size to serve as a warehouse or room, then in this case the best ceiling for a bathhouse is definitely a false ceiling.

Those who do it themselves and are not used to working under the ceiling or at heights may find the panel option the most preferable.

Bathroom ceiling: what is best to make it from?

As already mentioned, the components of the ceiling are boards, beams, insulation and insulation.

We personally consider the following to be the best insulation options:

• vermiculite;
• expanded clay;
• ecowool;
• mineral wool for saunas.

Do not consider this list as a rating, although, to be honest, we like mineral wool the least, because it is an aging material that turns into dust over time, and it is too sensitive to the presence of moisture between the fibers. If we name the abstract properties of the best insulation for baths, it would be:

• health safety;
• non-flammability;
• tolerance of high temperatures without melting, etc.
• high thermal insulation properties;
• ease of installation;
• durability.

Styrofoam and fiberglass are not suitable. However, we have described everything about insulation for bath ceilings in this article.

As for the types of vapor barriers, among them there are also those that are more or less suitable for use in baths. What types of vapor barrier materials there are, which of them are suitable for our purposes, and which are better not to use, is discussed here.

It remains to be said about the boards for the bathhouse ceiling. What kind of wood is the most on the market? The correct answer is coniferous. That's why it's cheaper. This means that nothing prevents us from purchasing cheaper beams made from coniferous wood.

These beams will be sewn up, the temperature, of course, will reach them in any case, but this is not so significant, because the main temperature is in the steam room, and there everything is not only sewn up with boards, but also with an additional vapor barrier made of foil. So there should be no resin dripping from the beams.

So, beams can also be made of coniferous wood. The lining of at least the steam room should be from the species that we mentioned above. In the remaining rooms of the bathhouse, you can hem the ceiling with anything.

Details about external insulation

Such insulation can be called external only conditionally, since the insulation is located inside the attic. This option optimally solves the problem of heat loss. In this case, the materials that make up the insulation system are not subject to the aggressive effects of steam and hot air, and the danger of condensation formation both on the surface of the ceiling and between the layers of the thermal insulation system is eliminated.

External insulation of the bathhouse ceiling is carried out from the attic side

Before you begin insulating the ceiling from the outside, thoroughly clean the attic floor of debris and dirt. Inspect the ceiling structure for damage, carry out repair work if necessary and replace damaged elements.

Be sure to treat the base surfaces with a primer and antiseptic (if necessary, mastic) to protect them from the effects of fungus, mold and harmful insects.

There are several ways to insulate a bath ceiling.

Wet method

Pre-prepare the attic floor, which is the outer side of the ceiling, and fill it with the so-called warm mixture. You can purchase it ready-made in specialized stores or prepare it yourself. The components included in this mixture provide high thermal insulation properties:

• expanded clay;
• foam chips;
• wood waste – sawdust, wood chips, shavings;
• slag.

Begin installing the insulation by treating the junction areas. These are gables, rafter system, chimney. After the mixture has hardened, cover it with a moisture-proof material - mastic, special liquid, film coating.

If you use membrane sheets, take care to protect them from mechanical damage.

This kind of work is very easy to do yourself, this is its advantage. The disadvantages include the fact that if it is necessary to repair the floors, it is very difficult to carry out dismantling work.

Dry method

This option is considered the simplest. You just need to cover the surface of the attic with any bulk materials: slag, vermiculite, expanded clay, wood waste. Using wood waste means that you need to carefully treat the chimney junction areas with materials that are resistant to moisture.

Sawdust and expanded clay can be poured directly onto the base of the floor or between joists previously laid on the surface. The joists are needed to make it easier to later plan the laying of sheet material on top if you plan to lay it.

1. The advantages of this method are its simplicity, low cost and the possibility of reusing the material. If the sawdust settles during operation, you can add expanded clay or any other “bulk”.
2. Disadvantages: replenishment of material may be required very often. In addition, when repair work is required, you will have to try to clean the area to the desired condition.

Using this method, you can also insulate the bathhouse ceiling with mineral wool in slabs or rolls. If you use glass wool for insulation, then keep in mind that you need to provide yourself with personal protective equipment: gloves, overalls, goggles and a respirator or mask. In addition, mineral wool can be left open, but glass wool must be closed.

Mixed option

By combining dry and wet technology for installing thermal insulation, you will significantly expand the possibilities of using building materials.

Pre-level the surface, cover it with mineral wool or fill it with expanded clay. Make a moisture-proof screed on top. It can also be mounted on soft or loose insulating material.

When using this material, do not skimp on reinforcement, even if you do not plan to use the attic later.

Modern technologies

In modern construction technologies, fundamentally new materials are used for work:

• ecowool;
• polyurethane foam spraying;
• ceramic thermal insulation;
• polymer thermal insulation.

Experts consider the last two materials to be insufficiently effective.

Insulation materials in liquid form can be very demanding in terms of storage conditions. If they, for example, freeze, their thermal insulation properties will be lost.

To insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse using polyurethane foam spraying, you will need special equipment, so it is quite difficult to cope with such work on your own. In addition, the resulting monolithic structure will be inconvenient if repair work and dismantling are required.

How to insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse from the outside?

This method is the most common method of insulation in a bathhouse building. It allows you to carry out the process quite quickly and comfortably. At the same time, the useful volume of the room does not decrease, and the thermal insulation performs its functions better.

Important: before insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse, regardless of the type of material used, it is necessary to thoroughly treat all wooden structures with antifungal solutions.

Ceiling insulation with expanded clay

Expanded clay is classically used for insulating rooms, especially floors and ceilings. Due to its high hygroscopicity, its use for insulation in bathhouses is associated with increased vapor and waterproofing. First of all, a vapor barrier is installed on the wooden ceiling. It is advisable to lay two layers perpendicular to each other. The overlap of the strips of material on each other should be 10-15 cm.

The seams are carefully sealed with mastic or tape. Fastening occurs using a construction stapler. The edges of the vapor barrier should protrude 40-50 cm onto the roof along the perimeter.

A layer of expanded clay, 20-30 cm thick, is poured onto the fixed vapor barrier membrane, depending on the climatic conditions of the area. On top of the insulation it is necessary to lay a lathing made of wooden blocks with a cross-section of 50*50 mm.

A waterproofing membrane is laid on this frame. This can be thick plastic film or roofing felt. All seams must also be carefully sealed. The waterproofing is secured using a counter-lattice made of 5 x 20 mm slats.

Important: when insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse as a vapor barrier, regardless of the insulation material, it is recommended to use films with foil on one side. This side of the insulation is placed inside the room, which creates an additional heat-repellent effect inside the bathhouse.

Insulation using sawdust

Sawdust is a classic folk material for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse. A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the plank surface of the ceiling. In extreme cases, it can be roofing material or thick polyethylene.

The seams are sealed, the margin around the perimeter of the roof of the building is 30-40 cm. A mixture of clay and sawdust in proportions of 2 to 3 is thoroughly mixed and laid on top of the vapor barrier in a layer of 10-15 cm.

After this, you need to wait for the material to dry thoroughly, this can take up to 30 days. For the first few days, the surface should be sprinkled with a little water to prevent cracks from appearing. If they do appear, you need to fill them with liquid clay.

Once the clay has dried, another 10 cm layer of sawdust can be poured onto it to improve the thermal insulation properties. The entire “pie” is covered with a layer of waterproofing material, for example, roofing felt, always sealing the seams.

Insulation with mineral wool

The use of mineral wool is a more modern method of insulation and at the same time one of the most effective.

It must be remembered that mineral wool is very hygroscopic and, just as in the case of expanded clay, it must be carefully insulated from moisture.

The wooden ceiling is covered with two layers of vapor barrier on top, with the bottom layer with a foil side, the top one, perpendicular to the bottom one, without it. The material is secured with a stapler, the seams are taped with metallized tape. The overlap of the strips is 10 cm. A margin of 40 cm on the roof along the perimeter is also secured to the roof with staples using a stapler.

Mineral wool slabs, 10 cm thick, are placed between the beams close to them directly on the vapor barrier. In this case, it is necessary that they fit tightly into the space between the beams. In this case, additional fastening of the material is not necessary.

If slabs 5 cm thick are used, they need to be laid in two layers in a cross way. This coating will be even more effective due to the absence of cold bridges. On top, on top of the insulation, waterproofing in 2 layers is laid directly on the floor beams. This can be roofing felt, thick polyethylene, or more modern rolled materials.

It is necessary to provide an air gap of 3-5 cm between the insulation and the insulation. If the thickness of the beams is 15 cm or more, then the necessary gap will be present. If the thickness is less and the insulation boards lie on the same level as the beams, you need to build a sheathing from 5 x 5 cm bars. The waterproofing is secured with a construction stapler to the beams or sheathing.

Important: if necessary, on top of the insulation “pie” on the bathhouse ceiling, you can make a wooden flooring from boards 2.5 cm thick, securing them to the beams or sheathing with nails.

Frequently asked questions

Let's look at a few questions that most users have and can be addressed right away:

Is it possible to use mineral wool to insulate the ceiling?

It is possible, but impractical. It will have to be placed in a cocoon of vapor barrier, purchased materials and a lot of additional work. This is difficult and increases the duration of the procedure.

What is the thickness of the polyethylene foam insulation layer?

The thickness limits of the ceiling insulation are 14-40 mm. Most often, roll insulation with a thickness of 20 mm is used. You can install two layers 10 mm thick, with different joints for greater tightness.

Is it possible to use sheathing strips as fasteners for thermal insulation?

Yes, this is what most users do. The material is applied to the ceiling and the strip is attached, punching it with nails along with the insulator. It is recommended to use rough nails.

If the bathhouse has a flat roof without an attic, is it necessary to insulate it from the outside?

Not necessary. However, it is necessary to install a thicker layer of insulation to ensure that the cold floor slab is cut off and to prevent the formation of cold bridges.

Is it possible to combine ceiling insulation with wall insulation?

It is possible and necessary. This connection will help to effectively cut off all cold surfaces and create a warm inner cocoon in the bathhouse.

Insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof

Warm air is lighter than cold air, so it rushes upward. Without meeting a barrier, it will heat the atmosphere; in order not to take part in the progress of global warming, it is necessary to organize proper thermal insulation. The air masses filling the under-roof space, of course, retain heat leakage, but this is not enough. With properly performed thermal insulation measures, the time for heating the room is significantly reduced, fuel is saved, heat and steam are saved longer, and the service life of the ceiling increases. Installing insulation in a multi-layer roof system prevents many types of heat loss.

How to insulate

Before laying the thermal insulation layer, a vapor barrier is laid. It prevents the transit of wet vapors and their settling in the insulation layer, because Water accumulated in the thermal insulation will increase the weight of the ceiling system and deteriorate the insulating qualities.

The following are used as a vapor barrier layer: aluminum foil, compacted cardboard impregnated with drying oil, wax paper, special film with lint, membrane material.

For more information on using foil, see this page

Ceiling insulation with sawdust

Traditionally, people insulated wooden houses with sawdust and lived without bothering in warm houses in severe frosts. People still recommend insulating the ceiling with dry straw and fragrant sawdust to this day. They are environmentally friendly, safe, hypoallergenic, natural. No special skills or special tools are required to use them.

If there is a solid base, a vapor barrier is first laid: roofing felt, rubimast, high-strength cardboard or membrane film; the edges are brought out to the sides of the beams and attached with a stapler to prevent spillage downwards. The cracks are first filled with foam. Then sawdust is poured in, pure or with impurities.

What is the reason for the errors

Many believe that the presence of additional space above the steam room and other rooms of the bath complex creates a barrier to the escape of warm air and do not pay close attention to insulation, as well as steam and waterproofing. However, a cold attic has virtually no effect on the microclimate in the rooms below it, since the air in this part of the building remains cold.

In such a situation, the floors must be insulated in the same way as in the case of a conventional roof, without free space under the roof. At the same time, the free area under the roof is often used for storing various things, which leads to the need to properly plan the arrangement of the ceiling.

Bathroom ceiling height

For a home building, the height of a bathhouse from floor to ceiling is calculated using the simplest formula: the tallest person in the family stands up to his full height, stretches his arms up and adds another 50 cm to the resulting value. The average height to the ceiling is from 2.2 to 2.6 m .

Sometimes, by lowering the ceiling in the bathhouse, the owner solves the problem of accelerating the heating of the room. The idea is correct. However, it is impossible to lower the ceiling below 2.1 m for a number of important reasons:

1. Hot air is constantly at the top. Inside a bathhouse with a low ceiling, there is an accelerated mixing of cold and warm flows, which affects the well-being of people steaming.
2. In a bathhouse with a low ceiling, it is more difficult to provide high-quality lighting, ventilation, and maintain optimal humidity.

If you adhere to the standard, the ceiling height in the bathhouse should be 2.1-2.4 m. The indicator varies depending on the size of the building, the expected maximum number of visitors, and the functional purpose of each room.

Advice! The ceiling of the bathhouse cannot be greatly increased. Energy consumption will increase.

The ceiling height in the steam room is calculated separately, which is related to the location of the shelves. Sun loungers are usually installed in two or three tiers. The visitor chooses the most comfortable place. The higher the shelf level, the hotter the surrounding air.

If we take into account the SNiP standards, then a minimum distance of 1.1 m must be maintained between the sun lounger of the upper tier and the ceiling cladding. For steam rooms of public baths, the figure is increased to 1.85 m

Multilayer construction

Properly executed insulation technology consists of several layers and is a so-called insulation pie, where the materials are arranged in the following order:

• waterproofing (membrane film);
• basalt insulation;
• protective foil.

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer averages from 20 centimeters and depends on the type of roof (presence of an attic), the functional purpose of the room and the climate in the region in which the building is erected.

As a rule, in a steam room these parameters are increased and two layers of membrane film are laid in front of the insulation sheets, which will increase the concentration of steam inside the bath.

Why insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse?

If the roof of a building is cold, this means that it is not insulated. The under-roof space is separated from the street only by a layer of waterproofing and roofing elements. This gives certain advantages:

• low weight of the structure;
• saving money on the purchase of building materials and installation;
• lack of ice in cold weather.

But there are also disadvantages. The biggest one is heat leakage. And as a result, the need to heat the room is much more intense. If a bathhouse is covered with a cold roof, the situation is aggravated by the presence of moist, heated air. It rises to the uninsulated ceiling, cools down and forms abundant condensation, which damages building structures and drips onto the people inside.

The presence of condensation on floors and ceilings is extremely undesirable. Moisture penetrates into the structure and begins to destroy it. Depending on the type of coating, it passes at different speeds, but always quite quickly. Fungus and mold that are dangerous to humans appear. The only way to solve all problems is to insulate the ceiling.

How to protect the attic floor from moisture

Thermal insulation in its structure is a multi-layer cake. One of its layers is a vapor barrier film, which should prevent moisture from penetrating into the structure of the structure.

To protect the insulation from fumes, a vapor barrier film is installed in front of the insulation layer (from the side of the living rooms). The vapor permeability of the film should exceed that of thermal insulation - this will allow you to quickly remove moisture that has entered the insulation through the protection.

The result of water exposure to floor elements

There are 2 reasons for vapor deposition on floor structures. The first is as a result of the release of household fumes and their diffusion through the ceiling. The second is the occurrence of dew due to the difference in temperature inside the room and the unheated attic.

A vapor barrier is installed on the ceiling if it is expected that the attic will be unheated. The rest of the space is not subject to insulation, because... it is uninhabited. But the protection of slopes and rafters is necessary, these are:

• waterproofing - to eliminate external influences from the street.
• natural ventilation - from condensation that appears due to the difference in temperature outside and in the house. According to the standards, the total area of ​​all ventilation openings must be at least 1/300 of the floor area or roof projection (horizontally). If ventilation is arranged correctly, in winter the difference in temperature in the attic and outside will be no more than 5-6 degrees.

Types of ceilings in the bathhouse

Depending on the selected materials and the design of the building, one of three types of ceilings is installed inside the bathhouse. The design is determined immediately at the stage of wall construction.

false ceiling

A hemming-type structure is used in a log bathhouse. The ceiling is durable, regardless of the size of the building. The design is ideal for a two-story bathhouse with an equipped attic for a relaxation room.

The basis of the false ceiling is formed by strong beams. They are usually made from the same log as the log house. The ceiling elements are hemmed from below to the beams. A rough or finishing floor is attached on top. The second option is chosen for the residential second floor. The void between the skins is filled with thermal insulation.

Important! In addition to the log house, the sheathed structure is suitable for bathhouses made of brick, foam blocks and frame type.

Panel ceiling

The panel type of construction is convenient in terms of savings. The sheathing is assembled in the form of separate boxes from scraps of tongue and groove boards. The internal void is filled with the remnants of the existing thermal insulation. The sheathing boxes are attached to the ceiling of the bathhouse, where the frame is pre-arranged. The advantage of technology is that it simplifies repairs. To change a rotten area, you do not need to remove the entire sheathing. It is enough to dismantle the problematic box and install a new element of a similar size in its place. One of the disadvantages of cladding is the difficulty of sealing the joints between each box.

Main types of attic roofs

• Cold - for their installation, a sheathing is stuffed onto the rafters, taking into account the roofing covering, roofing material is attached to it, insulation is carried out along the ceiling, laying thermal insulation on it, which is covered with a vapor barrier on the room side, and a waterproofing membrane on the attic side;
• insulated - for exploited under-roof spaces - attics, additional elements are added to the previous components: insulation, vapor barrier, waterproofing, counter-lattice - timber with a section of 40 x 40, 50 x 50, 60 x 60 mm, placed on the rafters along their length. A waterproofing material is laid on the beam, protecting the insulation and roof from external moisture, then the sheathing is laid on which the roofing covering is attached. The spaces between the rafters are filled with appropriate insulation, and from the attic side it is covered with a vapor barrier layer.

Types of bathhouse ceiling insulation:

• outside - more convenient to use, most effective for a ceiling located under an uninsulated roof, the insulation is laid out on the attic floor and covered with a rough or finished floor;
• from the inside – it prolongs the durability of the material, there are no temperature changes, but you will have to “steal” a few centimeters of the height of the bathhouse, a frame is mounted on the ceiling, after fixing the first layer of vapor barrier, and insulation is placed in it, then the vapor barrier is again and the ceiling covering is attached.

A mixture of cement and sawdust

Such insulation material has long been known and belongs to the traditional ones, which were used even before the era of modern materials for thermal insulation. In such compositions, cement is successfully replaced with clay, and straw can be used instead of sawdust. The mixture is made by mixing dry ingredients with water. The proportion is as follows: for 10 shares of sawdust you need to add 1 share of cement and the same amount of lime. The resulting dry mass is poured with 1.5 parts of water and thoroughly stirred until a thick mixture of uniform texture is obtained. The mass is laid out on the insulated surface and distributed evenly.

ATTENTION! Sawdust for preparing the mixture must be thoroughly dried, ideally for about one year.

This insulating material is characterized by minimal cost and environmental friendliness. But its thermal insulation qualities are inferior to those of mineral wool or expanded clay. The process of preparing and laying the mixture requires significant labor, and upon completion of installation it will be necessary to seal the cracks that inevitably appear.

Planning work on thermal insulation of a bathhouse roof

Before purchasing the building materials necessary for the work and preparing the necessary tools, you need to draw up a detailed plan for the insulation work to be performed. Drawing up a plan will allow you to avoid mistakes and alterations to the roof structure.

The process of thermal insulation of the ceiling and roof of a bathhouse is not very labor-intensive work, so it is not difficult to do it yourself, even if you do not have sufficient experience in carrying out repair and construction work. The main thing is that you must strictly adhere to the sequence (technology) of performing installation operations. Another argument for self-insulation of the ceiling is the availability of the necessary thermal insulation materials - they are available in almost all hardware stores.

Selection of insulation technology

They say that a correctly asked question contains 50% of the answer. Knowing the physics of the processes occurring in the cold under-roof space, it is possible to identify the most important criteria for choosing thermal insulation and evaluate all technologies based on them. The attic in buildings of this type is traditionally designed taking into account the possibility of cold ventilation. In both summer and winter, air flows are directed upward.

Ventilation of an uninsulated attic

To support this movement, two natural outlets are provided: for the flow between the tiles and the waterproofing, the joint between the membranes opens under the ridge of the roof, and for the heat rising from the ceiling, dormer windows are provided. Our ancestors experimentally found out that it is impossible to hermetically seal a space that is not heated. Excess moisture should evaporate freely from all house structures.

It is worth noting that all traditional building materials have two characteristic properties: high vapor permeability and increased capillary activity. The latter means that moisture moves inside the structure in a certain direction due to surface tension forces. However, since then, many materials have appeared that are completely different in physical properties from clay, brick and wood. It is logical that the issue of insulation can be resolved differently for them.

So, in order to figure out how to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof, let’s consider the basic technologies from the point of view of vapor permeability and capillary activity:

Ceiling insulation with sawdust

• Vapor-permeable backfills. From sawdust, peat, pine needles, sand, straw, used for centuries - to expanded clay granulate, which appeared in the 20th century and more modern ecowool
• Vapor-permeable fiber materials.
• Slab heat insulators with low or zero moisture saturation. These are expanded polystyrene (foam plastic and EPS), as well as slab foam glass.
• Hydrophobic seamless (solid) insulation. These include sprayed polyurethane foam.

Taking into account the design features of ceilings is equally important for any insulation technology. The force elements that take up bending loads are:

• Wooden beams. In the vast majority of low-rise private residential buildings.
• Concrete plates. In second place in popularity after wooden beams.
• Steel trusses. Used relatively rarely. However, due to the development of modular construction from thin-walled profiles, the popularity of this flooring option is growing.

In the case of beams and trusses, the thermal insulation layer can be located in one of four possible positions: from inside the room on the false ceiling, from the attic side on the flooring, between the beams (trusses) on top of the false ceiling, or between them, but below the flooring.

Criteria for choosing insulation

Expert advice on the requirements for heat insulators for a Russian bath:

• Easily combined with other building materials, but without detracting from their unique qualities.
• Non-hygroscopic, that is, one that will not accumulate moisture and water vapor. If you neglect this quality, the ceiling structure will very soon begin to collapse. This is especially true for wooden structures.
• Minimum level of moisture absorption by insulation.
• Availability of company certificates confirming the quality and safety of the heat insulator used for non-insulated roofing. These documents can be asked from the seller of the goods. The insulation must meet hygiene requirements and be fireproof.

What is an attic

This concept came to us from France, where back in 1630 in Paris, Monsieur Mansard initiated the use of attic space for residential and economic purposes. Obviously, there were such attempts before him, but this movement became widespread thanks to him, and the Parisian municipal authorities had a hand in this, since at that time there was a floor tax on property owners, and no money was taken from attics at all, like this The cunning Parisians gladly took advantage of the gap in the legislation.

Initially, the arrangement of the under-roof space was minimal, and the attic was intended to accommodate ordinary guests, and somewhat later, with the beginning of the era of industrialization and urbanization, to accommodate the low-skilled working class.

Today, regulatory documentation defines an attic as: “a floor in the attic space, the facade of which is completely or partially formed by the surface or surfaces of a sloping, broken or curved roof.”

For greater clarity, we will display the types of attic structures in the form of a table:

How else can you insulate a steam room?

You can hem the ceiling with a 50 mm unedged board. Narrow boards are attached to it from the outside for support, which are fixed to the wood grouse. For further cladding, tongue-and-groove aspen boards are used. It is attached with some gaps to narrow support boards.

In the attic, a vapor barrier membrane is first laid, on top of which sawdust mixed with clay is poured in a layer of 3 cm. Next, a 15 cm layer of basalt wool, density 125, is laid, and then a polyethylene film for protection from the wind. After this, the entire surface is covered with subfloor boards.

For bathhouses with log floors, a slightly different approach is used. To line the ceiling, a special sheathing is placed on the inside of the bathhouse. From the attic side, glassine is first laid and 20 cm of sand is poured. The owners add additional layers at their own discretion.

A detailed study of the insulation features of the steam room and other rooms in the bathhouse will help the owners of such structures to do everything right. Then a bathhouse built with your own hands will delight you with warmth, comfort and good steam. The options we have described can be modified and added at your discretion. We hope everything works out for the best for you.

Types of attics

When carrying out work, everything depends on the method of using the under-roof space. There are three of them:

1. Cold attic. Such an attic is not heated, and air does not flow into it from the premises. In this case, the room temperature is assumed to be +5 degrees Celsius.
2. Warm attic. The presence of a warm attic is typical for multi-apartment residential buildings. All ventilation ducts with heated air open into the attic space, increasing the temperature in the room.
3. Attic. The under-roof space becomes a full-fledged living space and is heated like all the rooms of the house. In this case, we recommend that you read the article on attic insulation.

In a wooden or any other private house, it is correct to use the first or third option.

This is how you can transform your attic, turning it into a residential attic:

Why do this?

The main rooms in a Russian bath are the steam room and the dressing room. The steam room maintains a high level of temperature and steam. Heated moist air tends to escape through gaps in the ceiling and walls. It is impossible to make a sealed steam room out of wood. The majority of heat loss occurs through the ceiling as hot air rises. To reduce the outflow of heat, insulation is installed. The thermal insulation material will act as a barrier and protect the steam room from rapid cooling. Insulating the steam room will reduce heat loss.

The ceiling can be insulated from the attic side or from below. The technology of thermal insulation works includes the construction of a multilayer structure. The result of high-quality ceiling insulation will be a reduction in heating costs and an increase in the time of maintaining comfortable heat in the room.