How to unscrew a rusty faucet that shuts off the water?

11. In general, wetting with kerosene, turpentine or oleic acid helps to unscrew rusted nuts. After some time, the nut can be unscrewed. Then you can set fire to the kerosene or turpentine with which it was moistened. This is usually enough to separate the nut and bolt. The latest method: apply a very hot soldering iron to the nut. The metal of the nut expands and the rust moves away from the thread; Now you can put kerosene, turpentine or oleic acid into the gap between the bolt and the nut, and this time the nut will turn off with a wrench.

There is another way to separate rusty nuts and bolts. A “cup” of wax or plasticine is made around the rusted nut, the edge of which is 3–4 mm higher than the level of the nut. Pour diluted sulfuric acid into a cup and add a piece of zinc. After a day, the nut can be easily unscrewed with a wrench. A cup of acid and zinc metal on an iron base is a miniature galvanic cell.

The faucet axlebox is the main element that is responsible for supplying and regulating the flow, as well as the temperature of water, due to the rotation of the valve. Faucets with one or two levers are equipped with brass fittings, which over time succumb to plaque and rust, which significantly complicates the process of dismantling and repairing a failed faucet axle box.

In such a situation, it becomes almost impossible to unscrew the threaded connection for restoration or replacement. The main mistake of many homeowners is that without thinking twice they pick up the key and forcefully try to unscrew the valve axle.

However, brittle brass may not withstand the pressure and may crumble. Repairs may be complicated and time-consuming, or the mechanism will have to be completely replaced.

Therefore, you should properly prepare for repairs. When performing it, you first need to arm yourself with the appropriate tools and basic knowledge about dismantling methods.

How to replace a faucet without turning off the water

It often becomes necessary to install a new faucet into the water riser instead of an old faucet that has stopped holding water. It seems that there shouldn’t be any problems: you turn out or cut off the old fittings using a grinder, electric or gas welding, and screw or weld a new analogue in its place. Yes, this will be so if it is possible to turn off the water using another tap or valve. But most often they are not there, and if they are, they have long been out of order and do not perform their direct functions, that is, they do not hold water. Sometimes, as a result of numerous reconstructions of a building, alterations or redevelopments, their location may even be forgotten or it turned out to be completely inaccessible. It seems that the situation has become hopeless. However, don't despair. Now we will try to implement our plans using simple and quite accessible tools and materials and, nevertheless, install a new product instead of the old faucet.

Tightening method

In some cases, in order for the threads to be disconnected, it is enough to tighten the upper part of the rusted faucet slightly tighter. For this purpose, it is recommended to use an adjustable or regular plumbing wrench that has an adjustable jaw width. Particular attention is paid to the location of the “cheeks” in a parallel direction to the hexagon on the upper part. When tightening, it is important to wrap the disconnectable faucet assembly with cloth, which will help protect the chrome coating from scratches and damage.

Materials and tools used

For this work we will need the following tools and materials:

an adjustable wrench for unscrewing an old, worn-out faucet;
an open-end or socket wrench of the appropriate size;
squeegee (a piece of pipe with a thread at one end);
FUM tape;
a special device for shutting off water in the riser outlet;
Bulgarian;
welding machine;
new faucet.

Tightening method

Pipe sealing device

It is probably necessary to briefly describe the design of the device for shutting off the water and its operation. It is a pin, at one end of which a valve made of elastic material is attached - a piece of rubber hose, and at the other end a nut is screwed on. And between them there is a piece of pipe into which the pin fits freely. The length of the pipe should be shorter than the section of the stud from the valve to approximately the middle of the thread, so that after installing the device in the right place, it is possible to tighten the nut on the stud and, thereby, compress the elastic valve, sealing the annular gap between it and the inner wall of the riser outlet pipe.

What to do next?

At this stage, the ball mechanism is removed from the body. To get it out, first unscrew the rounded cap in the cartridge. Since a plastic nut is mainly used to secure it, the slightest careless movement and it will be deformed. Already in the removed ball mechanism, the condition of the thin rubber sealing rings is inspected.

If they are worn out, replace them with new ones. You can purchase suitable parts in a specialized store. If you are new to such matters, most likely you will make the wrong choice, and therefore take the ball mechanism with you. The fact is that parameters such as the height of the rubber seal, its outer and inner diameters should be taken into account.

Pressure tap replacement process

Since it was not possible to turn off the water, it is barely contained under pressure by the old tap, which at any moment can give an even bigger leak. It is necessary to act very quickly and it is highly advisable to act together.

You should, as quickly as possible, use an adjustable wrench to unscrew the used tap and insert, overcoming the water pressure, the sealing device into the outlet to the required depth.

I turned on the tap and the pressure came out.

Then, holding it in the pipe, use a wrench to tighten the nut on the rod of the fixture until water stops flowing from the gap between the steel extension and the fixture.

Now you can, without fear of leaks, cut off part of the outlet using a grinder. Moreover, the location of the cut must be marked, not reaching the section where the valve of the device seals the outlet of the riser. After complete separation, the piece of pipe should be carefully removed without forcing the device too much.

To imagine how the new faucet will be located on the pipe, you can try it on in place, placing the wing on top, side or bottom, to determine the most convenient position during operation.

The next stage is very important: using electric welding, it is necessary to weld a squeegee to the outlet, onto which we will later screw a new tap. Before starting welding work, to ensure a reliable connection, you can make a small chamfer at the end of the cut pipe using a metal file. It is usually already available at the stages. This will allow the weld to fit well into the formed recess and ensure the quality, tightness and reliability of the connection.

After the squeegee has cooled, several layers of FUM tape should be wound onto its threads in the screwing direction, i.e. clockwise. This will increase the tightness of the fit of the new valve on the runoff and the tightness of the connection point. You need to screw on the tap with one hand, slowly and carefully, especially at the beginning, so as to get into the thread and not accidentally break it. At the very end, you can tighten it with a key, but at a small angle.

After the final installation of the new faucet, it is time to unscrew the sealing device. It is necessary to loosen the nut using a wrench and slightly move the rod towards the riser in order to release the elastic element in the longitudinal direction, which will allow it to lengthen and at the same time decrease in cross section. Now, without hesitation, we pull out the device, rocking it from side to side, and quickly close the new valve. The job has been successfully completed.

A little about terminology

Judging by the reviews, beginners often confuse a faucet with a valve.
Therefore, before unscrewing the tap, you should understand the terminology. The valve and the faucet are completely different elements. For example, the first one is equipped with threads at both ends and is mounted into a pipe break. Water cannot flow through it, since the valve’s job is only to shut it off. The tap is installed at the very end of the pipe. Attach it to pipes or fittings. In the sink and sink, it is connected to the system through a special hose, which is equipped with a thread at one end. Through the second, water is removed from the system. Taps are installed above sinks, in bathrooms and showers.

The inside of the device is equipped with a special mechanism whose task is to regulate the water supply. There is also a device that mixes hot and cold water. This explains why it is also called a mixer. It can be equipped with either two separate taps or a single integrated one. How to turn off the tap? What will you need for this?

Effective tips on how to unscrew a stuck faucet axle

However, brittle brass may not withstand the pressure and may crumble. Repairs may be complicated and time-consuming, or the mechanism will have to be completely replaced.

Therefore, you should properly prepare for repairs. When performing it, you first need to arm yourself with the appropriate tools and basic knowledge about dismantling methods.

About worm

For those who do not know how to unscrew a worm-type valve, it is advisable to first become familiar with its structure. According to experts, this system is considered quite outdated. The milled valve body is made by casting from bronze or steel.

It has a thread for the crane axle box. A product with a threaded inlet pipe, which is located at the bottom. Water is discharged from the system through the spout on the left. The most complex assembly is considered to be a faucet-box, inside of which, using a rod moving up and down along a thread with a rubber gasket, the water is shut off.

At the top of the system there is a place for a handle. It may take the form of a steering wheel or a washer. By rotating the handle, the rod moves, closing or opening the water. To fully open the worm valve, the handle has to be made several turns. The mixers are equipped with two separate axle boxes for cold and hot water.

Main causes of malfunctions

The kitchen faucet, as well as in the bathroom, is actively used by households many times a day. Not everyone treats it properly. For example, the flywheel is often spun in sudden movements with excessive use of force. This leads to the rubber gasket being pressed through, and then to failure of the device.

It is also susceptible to the penetration of abrasive materials (sand or other hard small particles), which settle on the surfaces and make it difficult to rotate, and in the worst case, lead to the destruction of the ceramic ring.

Sticky crane axle box

Most often, single-lever kitchen faucets break. This is due to the fact that they are under pressure with redoubled force. Such actions lead to the fact that the brass part is crushed, and it will not be easy to repair such a crane axle box.

There are three options to solve the problem:

Replace the mixer with a new one;
Replace the broken element;
Repair the failed part.

The least expensive is the third of the listed ways to fix a breakdown, but one of them should be used based on the specific situation.

Features of the device, principle of operation

In modern life, several types of taps are used. Their design and dismantling rules vary.

Worm

The design, which had become outdated, served people faithfully for more than a century. Main components:

Frame. Cast from steel or bronze and milled. There is a threaded inlet pipe located at the bottom. A thread is cut on top to screw in the valve axle.
On the left you can see the spout through which water flows into the sink.
Crane axle box. The most complex unit, consisting of several parts. Inside it, a rod moves up and down along the thread. There is a rubber gasket attached to the bottom that blocks the flow of water.

A handle in the form of a washer or steering wheel is fixed on top. By rotating the handle, you can move the rod up or down, opening and closing the water. To fully open, you have to make two to four turns of the handle.

Two separate axle boxes are installed in the mixer - for hot and cold water.

Such devices have two supply pipes.

Ball

This is a more modern design, it is much more convenient to use.

Instead of a brass axle box and a rubber gasket, a plastic cartridge is placed in the body. This mixer has two inlet pipes - for hot and cold water. A ceramic ball with slots is mounted inside the cartridge. Windows are also made in the building. When closed they do not match. The ball is connected through a control rod to a handle that moves in three directions.

As the ball rotates, its slots align with the windows and open up more or less water flow. The higher the handle rises, the more the windows fit together and the greater the water pressure. The position of the handle relative to the middle (left or right) determines the proportion in which hot and cold water are mixed. Thus, with a single movement of one hand, you can set both the desired pressure and water temperature. Such structures are equipped with an aerator that enriches the water with air.

Such a mixer costs significantly more than a worm mixer. The cartridge costs tens of times more than the gasket. But the service life of the cartridge is also tens of times longer than that of the gasket.

Necessary tool

To carry out the work you will need the appropriate tool. It is preferable to prepare it in advance in order to reduce the time interval of restoration work during which the house will remain without water. Preparing the proper tools ahead of time will allow the repair to be completed calmly and without fuss.

Set of tools

First of all, you must have a spare part available. This is necessary if it turns out that the old element cannot be repaired. But in this way it will be possible to quickly install a new one in its place.

I can't remove the rusty valve

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OLEG

July 30, 2015 at 10:38 am I want to replace the inch valve on the water tank. But the old one is so rusty that I can’t even unscrew it with a pipe wrench. I don’t want to use too much force, I’m afraid that the container pipe will break off. How can you unscrew it? alex78sol

July 30, 2015 at 01:59 pm Try heating the threaded connection with a gas torch or blowtorch. homohilaris

30 July 2015 at 14:05 In our mine, where an electric pump is installed above the well, this often happens. It seems to be tightly rusted and there is no way to unscrew it. But the problem can be solved without extra effort by either heating it or pouring a small amount of kerosene onto the rusted threads. Then you need to wait a few minutes - and you can unscrew it. VLAD

July 30, 2015 at 8:09 pm If you apply too much force, you will break the pipe if the valve is very rusty. The place of the threaded connection needs to be treated with kerosene, wait a little and only then remove the valve, it will be easier. Leonid_32

July 30, 2015 at 8:58 pm You can also use brake fluid, turpentine, and, as already mentioned, kerosene. But the most reliable method, which I often use myself, is penetrating lubricants, an example would be WD. Penetrates rust perfectly and corrodes it. homohilaris

July 31, 2015 at 7:31 am Thank you, I definitely need to try penetrating lubricant. Otherwise, kerosene in the twenty-first century is no longer respectable. The old master taught me this trick and many of his other secrets. He was already 80, and he ran up stairs faster than young people. Then - a sudden heart attack, our Ivan Petrovich has been gone for two years now.

Effective tips on how to unscrew a stuck faucet axle

You can dismantle the crane axle box in one of several ways. This variety allows you to choose the most appropriate option based on your specific situation:

Chemical. The implementation is as simple as the world. The part is generously lubricated with an acid-containing solution (WD-40, Cilit plumbing product or vinegar), and after a few hours you can try to dismantle it. In difficult situations, you should try to pour the chemical into the problematic compound (for example, with a syringe). In addition, experts recommend trying to boil the completely removed device for 20 minutes in a soda solution - this often helps to turn on a stuck valve.

WD-40

Thermal. It must be used when the above method did not bring the desired result. It is based on the fact that the faucet axle itself and the parts of the mixer with which it comes into contact are usually different. Accordingly, they have different degrees of expansion. The treatment is carried out with a construction hairdryer, with which the thread is thoroughly heated until the bolt moves.
Tapping. It usually helps when dismantling a light-alloy faucet that is leaking. It is performed with light, repeated blows of a hammer or mallet on the body along the threaded connection. Limescale and rust should be removed, and the jammed part should be easily dismantled.
Rocking the bolt. It is used in situations where the edges of the bolt are “licked off”. It is necessary to tightly grasp the bolt with a pipe wrench and try to break it by swinging. At the same time, it is important not to use excessive force - this can cause the thread to break and the part to break.

Drilling out a stuck crane axle box
Drilling. It is considered the most radical way; used when others have not helped. The protruding part of the bolt is cut off with a hacksaw, after which the remaining parts inside are drilled out with a suitable drill. Instead of a drill, you can use a milling cutter. Then the thread will have to be cut again.

Drilling is a radical method

If, after trying all the above methods, the axle box valve still does not unscrew, you will need to perform complete dismantling with drilling a hole . For this:

A hacksaw is used to cut off the external part of the crane box.
Take a drill or cutter of a suitable diameter, which is used to drill out the inner part. This must be done with great care so as not to damage the mixer itself. Ceramic plates are broken out with a screwdriver. Drilling out the crane axle box

Breaking out ceramic elements with a screwdriver. The edge remaining inside is unscrewed using two pliers or “pincers”: one tool is inserted into the hole, the second one is used to perform rotational movements. To prevent damage, you must hold the base of the mixer with your hand. Pliers are inserted into the hole

Unscrewing using an adjustable wrench or pliers

Recommendations from experts and possible difficulties

Plumbing equipment requires regular inspection. If the crane axlebox is stuck tightly, and the problem needs to be solved urgently, then you will have to intervene with your own hands. This is especially true in cases where specialist services are unaffordable or late.

Below are recommendations that, if followed, will help make the work easier when doing it yourself:

If it is possible to shut off the water in the house for a long time, then it is advisable to go shopping for a new part only after dismantling the old one, taking the latter as a sample. Sales consultants in the store will help you choose an identical spare part or its suitable analogue.
The modern plumbing market offers repair kits for faucet axle boxes made of rubber and ceramics. Plumbers note that when the faucet is used for a long time, the entire locking mechanism becomes unusable. Therefore, it is better to buy a new device entirely.

Disassembled mixer

Some valves are equipped with latches. They must be removed first.
A wide range of Chinese parts requires keys of different sizes.
Using an open flame can not only speed up repairs, but can also put the plastic parts of the faucet at risk of melting. Please note that the shiny surface of the case can also burn.
Before removing a stuck faucet, you must dismantle the mixer completely and boil it in a solution with the addition of 2 tablespoons of soda for about 20 minutes. After this, you need to dry the threaded connection and try to unscrew the part.
Before doing the work yourself, you should familiarize yourself with the model design of the crane axle box.

Dismantling a crane axle box is not an easy task and can be difficult to complete. However, studying the design mechanism, work methods, and following the advice of experts will help solve even the most difficult problem.

Heat treatment

It is used if the axle box valve does not unscrew after applying the previous method. As a rule, the faucet box and the adjacent part of the mixer body are made of different metals, which means they have different degrees of expansion when heated. This can help loosen the threads.

Construction hair dryer

A hair dryer is suitable for the job. It needs to be adjusted to the lowest temperature, and then warmed up at the joint at some distance from the thread. In this way, you can ensure that the part can be unscrewed by hand. Using an open fire will speed up the process significantly, but there is a risk of melting the plastic elements.

Another way to unscrew a stuck faucet is to fill a small saucepan with water, add a couple of tablespoons of soda and boil the product in it for 20 minutes. Then wipe the threaded area dry and unscrew the required part.

How to unscrew a stuck nut on a faucet

It seems that almost every man has encountered at least once in his life a nut that did not want to be turned off. She sits in her place, no matter how you spin around her. You run around, literally dance with tambourines, and, you know, she laughs. As if it had taken root. Sound familiar? In fact, a very common situation. The cause is common rust. And rust, as we know, is formed from contact of metal with moisture.

Rust seems to connect the nut to the bolt at the molecular level. Sometimes the bolt breaks due to the applied effort, but the nut does not come off. How to get out of this situation?

Do you open an iron tin can with a can opener clockwise or counterclockwise?)

Don't laugh!) I'm looking for confirmation of one hypothesis)

As answers come in, the hypothesis is confirmed))

Even from 20 replies it is clear that only a man (right-handed) can open clockwise - for me, for example, it is convenient and logical) Elik_555#2018.05.09 16:410 User replies:

during its repair Dagestanec#2018.05.10 04:050
User replies:
I don’t think they would have treated me to anything decent - good wine or Baileys.
I think no…. You might be able to work as a nurse in a hospital... ...unless they are very big... (but why do you need them?) OTCHAEHYY #2018.05.11 03:490 User replies:
in order not to become a turtle on yourself, that is, clockwise - this is if with an old opener, and if with a new one, then from yourself Mara#2018.05.11 14:310
User replies:
Isn't the weather nice today?
:)... of course, but you can download ready-made saves... There is still gunpowder in the flasks, don’t worry, we’ll kill the reptiles! Counterclock-wise. Do you need something for statistics?) VETERAN#2018.05.11 19:580 User replies:
background and meaning Luna#2018.05.11 23:050
User replies:
Romashkova Proletaria Avenue...... It depends on what kind of love we are talking about.

Preparation and necessary tools

Before you start dealing with a stuck compound, you need to be properly prepared. Armed with the right tools, we will unscrew the fastening element faster and, most likely, will not even damage it. One key obviously won't do the trick. You will need a whole set. What will be most useful to us in this matter are:

heads with a knob;
impact wrench;
socket wrench;
set of spanners.

When starting work, you should not forget about your own safety:

Never use damaged tools.
When unscrewing, proceed counterclockwise.
Check that the key is securely fastened.
To avoid injury, always wear gloves.

Leaks

How to change a faucet in a sink? The algorithm of actions depends on what kind of breakdown occurred. Let's consider repair options for a leak in a faucet with two valves, as well as from under the flywheel.

When there is a leak from the gander. Such a breakdown can occur for several reasons. The first includes valve gasket failure due to wear, loss of integrity, deformation, or hardening. For example, integrity failure occurs due to the fact that the gasket is exposed to the sharp edges of the valve seat. The second reason is wear of the valve and seat, which occurs in all mixers with a long service life. So, it occurs as a result of mechanical action of water or corrosion.
Leakage from under the flywheel. The cause of the failure is the valve gasket or the flywheel rod seal. Poorly sealed flywheel due to the O-ring being loose or deformed. The gasket leaks if it falls off the pin.

As for ball and cartridge faucets, leaks occur when debris or grains of sand get into the valve mechanism. We are talking about the space between the seat and the ball in ball valves. But cartridge faucets begin to leak if debris gets between the shutter disks.

That is, before you look for how to change the faucet in the sink, make sure that this is where the problem lies.

Faucets that are designed for showers can leak for other reasons.

In the open position, water flows through both the shower and the gander. The cause of this breakdown is the switch. The type of failure depends on the mechanism of the crane itself. This may be a lack of water pressure to switch tightly from shower to spout, or wear of the guide elements in barrel and eccentric switches, or debris getting into the plates and retainers in ball switches, or wear of gaskets in spool devices.
Leakage directly through the switch button due to damage to the o-ring.

To put it simply, the cause of any leakage or decrease in water flow from any mixers is considered to be clogging of the gander installed at the end of a special device, it is called an aerator. The latter also becomes dirty due to high water hardness, salt deposits that clog the aerator mesh, as well as the opening of the shower head. Scales and salts can cause clogging of the faucets themselves, which also affects the power of the jet. Such malfunctions do not require changing the entire mixer; it is enough to replace some part, and the owner of the apartment himself can handle this.

If fistulas or cracks appear in the valve body, then faulty devices will have to be replaced, even if they are made together with the tap.

By the way, touchless faucets can also break down, become clogged with dirt, the screens can become clogged with salts, and the internal shutter mechanisms wear out. Here you will have to call a specialist for help, and not try to remove the mixer yourself.

How to unscrew the faucet nut if it is stuck

The easiest way to get a stuck nut to unscrew is to knock it off with a chisel or hammer. You can use a grinder. But in most cases this option is not suitable. You just need to unscrew it so that you can screw it back later. It would seem that the situation is hopeless, but this is somewhat untrue. There are several ways to help “re-stirring” a rusted nut.

Dissolving rust

Many people know this liquid as WD-40. In common people they call it “Vedashka”. The essence of this product is that it dissolves rusty deposits and, as a result, reduces friction. As a result, the fastening gradually begins to give in.

If this product is not at hand, then you can find a replacement. Kerosene, carburetor cleaner, gasoline, and brake fluid work well for this. In addition, vinegar, iodine or alcohol are suitable for the same purposes.

Guide to action:

Thoroughly pour the liquid over the nut and wait about thirty minutes. As soon as time has passed, you can take the key and try to turn it off. If the fastening does not yield or yields but is very tight, then the liquid has not penetrated the rust sufficiently. We wet it again, only this time with a piece of rag, and wrap it around the nut. This will give the liquid a better chance of eating away the rust.
After such a lotion, the fastening element should begin to move. To make the movement easier, you can tap it a little with a hammer. And only then, using the key, you can try to rip it off. To make the jerk stronger, you can lengthen the handle of the key. Any piece of pipe will do.

Heating the nut

Exposure to high temperatures causes metals to expand, which means the rust will break down. After such an execution, any compound, even a completely sour one, will cease to be so strong. For heating, you can use any heat source. You can use a hair dryer, a torch, a blowtorch or a regular lighter.

Guide to action:

Thoroughly warm up the nut and screw itself. After that we try to turn it with the key. Sometimes the edges of the fastener are damaged, preventing the key from being used. In this case, we put the socket head on the nut and warm it up together. Then unscrew it with a knob.

Attention! When heating, be extremely careful - you can easily get burned.

Destroying the nut

You can destroy the connection with an ordinary chisel, it can be cut with a hacksaw or grinder, or you can use a drill.

Guide to action:

By hitting a chisel with a hammer, we make grooves on the edges of the nut. The blows must be strong so that the chisel goes deep. This increases the internal diameter. Gradually we will destroy the fastening element. The same effect can be achieved if you drill holes on the edges with a drill. Once the nut is broken, it can be easily removed.
Things will move much faster if you cut off the nut with a hacksaw or electric grinder. The main thing is to make a cut along the axis.

As you can see, even the most rusty nut can be unscrewed (if you really want to). However, it is much better not to bring the situation to such a result. It is better to initially use a fastener that is not subject to corrosion. Then you certainly won’t have to rack your brains over how to unscrew the “stubborn” without breaking it.

Use of solvent

After unscrewing the top nut and removing the handle, it is recommended to pour in any rust solvent, which can be WD-40, kerosene or diesel fuel. Then one of the hammers should be installed on one side of the nut, and with the other, apply several blows to the opposite part of the fastener, and then change the position of the tool.

Tapping should be replaced by refilling the solvent, and then unscrew the nut with a suitable size spanner. If necessary, all of the above activities will need to be repeated.

Working with rusted parts, including taps, is very difficult, so replacing or repairing them will require some tricks and simple but effective methods to make unscrewing easier.

The faucet was leaking for a long time and when I decided to replace it, it turned out that it was stuck and did not want to get out. How can I remove it now to replace it?

if the valve is thoroughly stuck. to begin with, you can tap it with a hammer, and if after that it does not begin to unscrew, then you can warm it up with a torch (if the pipes are plastic), you must warm it up carefully. In order not to melt the base of the fastener, after warming up you must sharply pull it off the thread. Then prepare another valve and replace the old one. If If you don’t want to flood your neighbors, it’s best to shut off the water entering the apartment.

Old valves are very reluctant to twist off old pipes. As a rule, they are not only stuck, but also fairly painted over. If the working connectors of the faucet body sit tightly on the pipes and do not dig through, I would dare to advise starting the repair by replacing the packing located under the upper clamping nut -

or even replacing the entire “head” with a new one (this is the upper part of the faucet that screws into the body). Today, choosing a new “head” is not a problem. When replacing a valve, clean the seat in the body.

Let me explain my point of view. If the tap is ancient, then apparently the pipes are not new. The threads of their threads are quite rotten, and it is not a fact that even if you unscrew the old faucet in half with grief, you will properly install a new one on them.

Well, if replacing the packing or even the “head” did not help, you will have to remove the old case.

Rarely are valves installed “tightly” - this is when there is no way to unscrew them without dismantling and cutting the pipes. If pipes approach the faucet from both sides, then either one of them must be able to rotate, or a pipe with a coupling and a locknut is installed on one side of the faucet. Start disassembling with this locking nut and coupling. Use two wrenches to separate the coupling and lock nut in different directions. Next, we move the coupling even further away from the nut until the connector appears in the pipes. Now unscrew the tap from the “dead” pipe.

Before dismantling, it is better to thoroughly clean the paint and rust with a wire brush, especially in the turns of pipes where the nut and coupling will be driven together. You can also wet them with water so they can be cleaned better. Even without special equipment, even if it’s a little tight, they always move away.

I’ll immediately warn you that, as we remember, the pipes can also be old, and it’s not at all difficult to twist the tap or coupling along with part of the pipe along the turns. This means you need to be prepared to cut a new thread (have a clamp) or install a GEBO coupling, or, what’s most troublesome, weld a new thread using electric welding.

If you have any of the above on hand, then just take a grinder and cut off the old tap -

Corrosive changes often occur during the operation of a wide variety of plumbing fixtures. Before opening a rusty faucet, you should identify the cause of the problem and choose the best way to fix it.

How to loosen a stuck cold water valve/faucet?

Hello. There was a need to change the cold water tap, but unfortunately I discovered that the valve (or ball valve?) shutting off the cold water to the apartment was jammed. It hasn't been played for several years. See photo.

Is this a valve or a ball valve?

Tell me how to try to stir it up? I found this for a ball, but I don’t know if it’s suitable for my case?

antd2000, this valve at the entrance to the apartment is the responsibility of the DEZ. Write them an application with a visa on a copy of the application about the impossibility of shutting off the water. They will try to change the valve box and leave it at that. It is in your best interest to keep a ball valve ready, which the mechanic who comes will install in place of the valve for money or with a lot of grumbling. I really don't recommend putting any effort into this valve. Its destruction and subsequent consequences will be blamed on you.

cineman wrote: It is in your interests to keep a ball valve ready, which the mechanic who comes will install in place of the valve for money or with a lot of grumbling.

If the first faucet is not working properly, then repair the old one or install a new one for FREE, regardless of grumbling.

The photo shows the valve. Often they change the entire valve part (this is easier than changing the whole thing) or replace the entire valve with a ball valve (if there is no valve part or the main part is required). In both cases, the replacement is FREE OF CHARGE, because this valve/taucet is in the area of responsibility of the management company.

antd2000 wrote: the cold water shutoff to the apartment is jammed

It's hard to turn without a handle, maybe you can install a handle and then it will turn. In the half-open position, it may leak along the stem.

In general, call the management company, let them fix it or replace it for FREE.

For free. Does this not depend on whether the apartment is privatized or not?

And also, is shutting off the cold water riser free of charge?

antd2000, does not depend. You pay them money every month for maintenance; everything, including risers and inlet taps, is included in the price. The replacement technology shouldn’t worry you either - maybe they’ll have to drain the whole house - it’s still 0 rubles.

antd2000 wrote: Free. Does this not depend on whether the apartment is privatized or not? And also, is shutting off the cold water riser free of charge?

FOR FREE. More precisely, you have already paid for this in the REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE line, including paid for a new faucet if a replacement is required.

You don’t even have to purchase a faucet at your own expense, but in order to solve your problem faster and possibly have a better-quality faucet, it’s probably still worth buying a high-quality faucet for replacement (at least, what would happen if the plumber stated that the faucet is in the Criminal Code no and won’t be in the near future, and if you don’t need it, return it back to the store).

antd2000 wrote: Does this not depend on whether the apartment is privatized or not?

If it is not privatized, you can also install meters at the expense of the municipality.

strider1978 wrote: If it is not privatized, you can also install meters at the expense of the municipality.

You can try, but it is unlikely, because formally the municipality does not use water and can turn it off completely. And because It is the resident who needs the resource, then there is a contract for the supply of resources with this same resident (tenant), and therefore the meter is the responsibility of the resident.

Another question is if the apartment is not for rent, but under the so-called commercial state lease - renting an apartment from the state. But I don’t know the intricacies of such relationships, because... I have only superficially heard about such experiments in the provision of housing on the principle of renting not from a private owner, but from the state, with payment for utilities and rent (according to the experiment, the price is lower than that of a private owner renting out an apartment, but more expensive than the owners pay for their housing).

ser000 wrote: If the first faucet is not working properly, then repair the old one or install a new one for FREE, regardless of the grumbling.

Repair of old or replacement with new VALVE.

cineman wrote: Repairing the old one or replacing it with a new VALVE.

If they find it, they may install a valve, but it is more likely that they will install a ball valve, because... the latter is usually cheaper (for some manufacturers the difference is almost double). In some management companies, they spend weeks or months looking for this replacement so that the complainant can’t bear it and at least buys a faucet or pays for a replacement for this FREE service.

ser000 wrote: You can try, but it is unlikely, because formally the municipality does not use water and can turn it off completely.

In ECB, it is enough to sign a paper with the district administration agreeing to transmit meter readings in the prescribed manner.

ser000 wrote: If they find it, they might install a valve

In my practice, they keep an on-duty, scary, used one. The goal of the terrible thing is to force the owner to pay for the crane and its installation.

Yes, no one will install a new faucet for him for free, the ball valve and the valve have different sizes and the rusty fitting will have to be cut out. They will loosen the gland nut and unscrew it with pliers by the stem, if anyone has one. Well, maybe they will check the rubber on the seat if the riser is blocked. New valve head, where do they buy such rarities?

The mechanic who came in on another issue immediately said that their area of responsibility was up to the valve, not turning on the valve. It's been like this for a long time. Therefore, when replacing it, you will have to pay for shutting off the water and labor. It's in Moscow.

What document is this stated in? Can anyone explain clearly?

antd2000 wrote: their area of responsibility is up to the valve, not turning on the valve

You will check with someone more competent in matters of responsibility, with his superiors, for example, a valve is part of a system that common property must be replaced or repaired for free

antd2000 wrote: A mechanic who came in regarding another issue immediately said that their area of responsibility was up to the valve, without turning on the valve.

Make a request in writing in two copies against signature regarding the malfunction of the shut-off valves on the riser. The chief engineer of the management company or the foreman of the housing office (DEZ) will come and make a decision.

antd2000 wrote: A mechanic who came in regarding another issue immediately said that their area of responsibility was up to the valve, without turning on the valve. It's been like this for a long time.

Not like that for a long time. Probably the locksmith wanted to get some money past the cash register for free services. Decree 491:

The common property includes in-house engineering cold and hot water supply systems, consisting of risers, branches from the risers to the first shut-off device located on the branches from the risers, the specified shut-off devices, collective (common house) cold and hot water metering devices, first shut-off and control devices taps on taps of intra-apartment wiring from risers

antd2000 wrote: Therefore, when replacing it, you will have to pay for shutting off the water and labor. It's in Moscow.

It's your business, but you don't have to pay for it. More precisely, you have already paid for this monthly under the REPAIRS AND MAINTENANCE item in the invoice.

antd2000 wrote: Which document is this written in? Can anyone explain clearly?

Resolution 491, see above.

You've already asked about this. Are you going for the second round?

strider1978 wrote: If it is not privatized, you can also install meters at the expense of the municipality.

ser000, you can argue for a long time about who benefits from what, but the installation of meters in non-privatized apartments was paid for by the Moscow municipality. Another thing is that contractor companies were doing this and the apartment could be missed, and the management company may not carry out this work. Replacing the inlet valve on the Bugatti ball was in the estimate and the shutdown was carried out free of charge if the local plumber could be caught sober. But the vehicle seems to be changing the cranbook once again for 2 months, and will pay for the paid service at the rates of the extortionists.

Best answers

Either break the “lamb”, or take hold of it with an adjustable wrench and unscrew (counterclockwise) the entire knob, buy another one along with the “lamb”. Well, if I understood you correctly.

drill out the bolt or at least its head

only experienced managers or merchandisers can cope with this problem... :)))

You can use a household drill to cut a new slot. Or just drill it out.

If the valve is no longer needed, cut it off with a grinder. There is an option to unscrew the valve itself from the mixer. but first turn off the water completely - both cold and hot.

I would post a photo, otherwise how do we know. Spray white onto the bolt for half an hour. If it’s copper-plated, they should turn away

It’s easier to find a man than to master repair technology. Just don’t say that it was the husband who wrote this, because this is not a husband, but a boy.

You can’t even imagine what kind of nightmare faucet your imagination conjures up regarding your question. The valve from the faucet is unscrewed with an adjustable wrench and is not attached to it with any bolts. The head of the bolt is a wrench and does not have a slot for a screwdriver. If you can’t remove the valve from behind the flywheel, break it, drill out a screw, etc., whatever you like best. If anything, a set of new flywheels for the mixer is not that expensive.

Send me a photo in a personal message, then we can suggest something. Valves and mixers are now different, and it’s so easy to tell. As I understand it, you need to first remove the wing and then unscrew the axle box.

Carrying out repairs

Let's figure out how to repair a faucet. To perform repairs you need to have a certain set of tools.

Tool preparation

A home handyman should have on hand:

Hollow screwdriver;
Pliers;
Adjustable wrench;

Hexagonal socket wrench;
Hammer.
Instant rust remover ("Liquid Key" type);
Special silicone grease for plumbing fixtures (odorless and containing no toxic substances).

Dismantling works

Any current repair of cranes begins with disassembly. The work goes like this:

The water supply is shut off and the remaining water in the pipe and mixer is drained.
Next you need to remove the lever part. To do this, you need to unscrew the fixing screw using a hexagon and, easily loosening it, remove the lever part.
Now the master has access to the threaded connection; he needs to press it with a screwdriver and turn it counterclockwise. In this case, you will have to press hard on the existing recesses.
Now it's time to remove the faucet dome and plastic retaining part. These operations are performed using pliers.
The next stage of dismantling is removing the ball.
Next, you need to remove the seals with the springs, prying them off with a screwdriver. As a rule, these springs must be replaced every time the faucet is disassembled, since they wear out faster than all other parts.