Does a bathhouse made of aerated concrete have the right to life? Pros and cons

Foam block calculator

will allow you to accurately calculate how many cubes and how many pieces of foam blocks are needed to build a house, according to the size of the house and the size of the blocks.

Foam block

is a popular modern building material, which is characterized by its low cost, ease of processing, low density and low thermal conductivity. A type of artificial stone, cellular concrete, which is produced by mixing cement mortar with a foaming agent. Due to the availability of technology, there is semi-handicraft production of foam blocks. This fact requires the buyer to be especially careful when choosing a quality supplier.

How much does it cost to build a bathhouse from expanded clay concrete blocks?

Experienced craftsmen who have been constructing such objects for many years believe that the price of a bathhouse made of expanded clay concrete blocks (for example, with an area of ​​18 sq. m.) varies between 230,000-270,000 rubles. Of course, the amount is considerable, but the pleasure from the bath is great and lasting.

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Information on the purpose of the calculator

The online foam block calculator is designed to calculate the number and parameters of foam concrete blocks for the construction of walls of residential buildings and non-residential premises, as well as other structures, taking into account gables, window and door openings. Calculation of the amount of associated materials, such as the amount of sand-cement mortar, masonry mesh and the cost of materials.

When filling out the data, pay attention to the additional information with the sign ❗

Foam concrete blocks are one of the types of cellular concrete, which contain, in addition to water, cement and sand, a chemical foaming agent. It is thanks to the foaming agent that this material is light and has sufficient strength to resist external loads. The structure of concrete itself, as well as in aerated blocks, is cellular, containing many closed air pores that are evenly distributed throughout the entire volume.

Foam concrete is a fairly popular building material and is used in all main types of construction, such as:

• Block construction of walls
• Monolithic filling
• Use as a heat and sound insulating material

The strength of such concrete depends on its density; the higher the density, the higher the strength. But this rule only works if all standards are observed during the production process. The quality of the material depends on the type of production. The production process is quite simple, which is why this material has gained high fame and popularity even in sparsely populated areas. But in this case, this was a big disadvantage, since the possibility of production in “garage” conditions has the worst impact on quality.

Table: Size and weight of foam blocks

Large enterprises use special foam generators and high-pressure autoclave chambers, in which foam concrete gains its strength while maintaining a uniform distribution of air pores throughout the entire volume. Unfortunately, many small enterprises produce foam concrete blocks without such chambers, and also neglect many other rules (inaccurate calculation of raw materials, small amounts of cement, cheap foaming agents, violation of drying conditions, homemade equipment). In this regard, the resulting concrete has a clearly uneven density, which is why it does not meet accepted standards and declared characteristics. Over time, such foam blocks develop cracks of various sizes, delaminate and crumble.

Attempts to save on building materials lead to partial (and sometimes complete) destruction of the integrity of the structure after just a few years. The mechanical strength of foam concrete, due to its porous structure, is quite low compared to conventional concrete. In this regard, the use of this material is possible only in walls that do not bear significant loads. As well as the mandatory presence of reinforcing belts above the upper rows, even when constructing wooden floors.

Despite this, foam concrete has a number of significant advantages compared to many other types of heavy concrete:

1. Low thermal conductivity - but subject to dry condition.
2. Low volumetric weight – significantly reducing labor costs, as well as the possibility of using more simplified foundations.
3. Ease of machining - no need for special equipment for sawing and drilling.

Buy foam blocks only from large enterprises that have a full production cycle that meets all standards, and also have certificates of compliance with GOST.

The following is a complete list of calculations performed with a brief description of each item. If you haven't found the answer to your question, you can ask it in the comments below the article.

How to calculate foam blocks for a house manually?

The fastest way to calculate the number of foam concrete blocks with your own hands is to determine the square footage of all walls and the surface area of ​​one block. However, this algorithm is applicable only in cases where the wall surface has a rectangular shape.

Condition:

• house with walls 7 and 9 m, height 3 m;
• foam block 600x300x200 mm;
• half block masonry.

Solution:

• wall length: 7 × 2 + 9 × 2 = 32 m;
• wall area: 32 × 3 = 96 m2;
• block side surface area: 0.600 × 0.200 = 0.12 m2;
• number of blocks: 96 / 0.12 m2 = 800 pcs;
• number of blocks with reserve: 800 + (800 × 0.05 (5%)) = 840 pcs.

General information on the calculation results

1. Building perimeter

— The total length of all walls taken into account in the calculations.

2. Total masonry area

— The area of ​​the outer side of the walls. Corresponds to the area of ​​the required insulation, if provided for by the project.

3. Wall thickness

— The thickness of the finished wall, taking into account the thickness of the mortar joint. May differ slightly from the final result depending on the type of masonry.

4. Number of blocks

— The total number of blocks required to build walls according to the given parameters.

5. Total block weight

— Weight excluding mortar and masonry mesh. Just like the total volume, it is necessary to select a delivery option.

6. The amount of mortar for the entire masonry

— The volume of mortar required to lay all the blocks. The volumetric weight of the solution may vary depending on the ratio of components and additives introduced.

7. Number of rows including seams

— Depends on the height of the walls, the size of the material used and the thickness of the masonry mortar. Excluding gables.

8. Quantity of masonry mesh

— The required amount of masonry mesh in meters. It is used to reinforce masonry, increasing the solidity and overall strength of the structure. Pay attention to the number of reinforced rows; by default, the reinforcement of each row is indicated.

9. Approximate weight of finished walls

— Weight of finished walls, taking into account all building blocks, mortar and masonry mesh, but excluding the weight of insulation and cladding.

10. Load on the foundation from the walls

— Load without taking into account the weight of the roof and ceilings. This parameter is necessary to select the strength characteristics of the foundation.

To calculate blocks for partitions, you need to start a new calculation and indicate the length of only all partitions, the thickness of the walls to the floor of the block, as well as other necessary parameters.

We build with our own hands

Having answered the question whether it is possible to build a bathhouse from aerated concrete, you should move on to the process of constructing the building.

It consists of the following steps:

1. Design.
2. Calculation of material requirements.
3. Purchasing everything necessary, preparing tools.
4. Marking, digging a pit, laying out the foundation.
5. Waterproofing the base.
6. Wall masonry
7. Installation of partitions.
8. Reinforcement of masonry.
9. Reinforcement under window openings.
10. Pouring armored belt between floors
11. Installation of interfloor slabs
12. Insulation from the inside
13. Finish lining.

In addition, the stages of installation of communications should be foreseen in advance.

Methods for laying blocks

A do-it-yourself aerated concrete bathhouse can be laid out in various ways. The choice to lay blocks flat or on edge is determined by the climatic conditions of the area where construction is taking place.

In the middle zone and in the southern regions of the country, it is advisable to lay stones in a vertical orientation, creating surfaces 20 cm thick. In this case, additional insulation is not required, since this design has the insulating qualities of 100 cm of brick.

Another solution is to lay the products on the wide side. This allows you to make single-layer walls with a width of 40 cm and 60 cm. This approach is used in areas with long and cold winters, where good thermal insulation is necessary.

Another method is the construction of parallel walls, between which vapor-permeable insulation is laid. The surfaces themselves are connected by ties, anchors or reinforcement. A continuous strapping is made on top.

Waterproofing the base for masonry walls

Thermal conductivity, durability and strength of load-bearing walls depend on the quality of this stage.

Perform waterproofing in the following sequence:

1. Cleaning the foundation surface from dust and dirt.
2. Applying a layer of mastic.
3. Laying 3 layers of roofing felt.

After the first row of stones has been laid, the roofing felt should be turned upward and glued to their surface. This will protect the material from snow, rain and melt water.

Technology and features of wall masonry

To make your own aerated block bathhouse durable and beautiful, you must follow the rules for laying the blocks.

There are few of them:

1. The beginning of laying is from the corners, after preliminary measuring the evenness of the base.
2. Bandaging each row with an offset of half a stone.
3. Reinforcement of walls every 2 rows.
4. Using hollow lintels to make openings.

The products have smooth edges. When laying, a special polymer adhesive is used, which has low thermal conductivity. Apply it in a layer 3 mm thick.

First row

The quality of laying the first row directly affects the progress of further work, solution consumption and the final result.

This stage is performed in the following sequence:

1. The highest base angle is determined.
2. Cement mortar is produced. Its task is to link blocks and align them.
3. On the upper corner of the base, 2 stones are placed to form an angle. They are aligned vertically and horizontally.
4. The remaining corners are made.
5. A cord is stretched between them.
6. Laying is carried out from top to bottom.

If there are gaps between the stones, they are filled with sawed-off fragments smeared with glue at the joints.

Second and subsequent row

You can return to continue work no earlier than 2 hours after arranging the first row, so that the cement has time to harden. Laying should begin from one of the corners, overlapping the stones each time. Before applying the glue, the surfaces are sanded with a float and cleaned of dust with a wet brush. The verticality of the walls is constantly checked by level and plumb. Correction of the position of the fragments is carried out with a rubber mallet.

Partitions

The partitions are installed after the walls are completely erected. The floors are pre-installed. In the wall blocks, cuts are made through 1 row to place the partition blocks perpendicularly. The dressing is done on half the stone. They are first sawed into blanks so as not to be distracted during laying, since the mortar’s lifespan is limited.

Based on the specifics of the project, a steam room, shower room, locker room and rest room can be fenced off with partitions. To make the room comfortable, it is advisable to make a vestibule to compensate for the temperature difference in the sauna and outside.

Masonry reinforcement

Every 2 rows, reinforcement is made of the raised wall from aerated blocks. For this, 10-16 mm reinforcement is used. The metal is placed in grooves, which are made with a grinder or a special tool. The groove cross-section is selected rectangular or triangular.

In the second case, much less work will be required, since only 2 oblique cuts are made, connecting in the middle of the walls. Radius bends are made at the corners, made by hand or with a pipe bender. After placement in the grooves, the reinforcement is filled with cement mortar flush with the surface of the stones.

Reinforcement under window openings

Reinforcement under window openings is carried out to strengthen the area that will be subject to the pressure of a massive double-glazed window. First, the width of the window is marked on the wall, 2 grooves are made on it, which exceed the frame by 20-30 cm on each side.

Then the grooves are cleaned of dust and crumbs, cement mortar is poured into them, and steel pins are immersed. Excess material is removed and the surface is leveled.

Lintels over window and door openings

The jumpers take on the load from the blocks on top. These parts are made in the form of U-shaped profiles. The cavity inside is intended for the installation of a reinforced concrete core, which has high strength and low flexibility.

Installation is carried out as follows:

1. The part is cut so that its edges rest on the wall 40 cm on each side.
2. The fragment is glued to the stones along the edges of the opening.
3. A T-shaped support is installed under the jumper, supporting it along its entire length.
4. A three-dimensional frame of square cross-section is made from reinforcement.
5. The metal part is placed into the cavity and rigidly fixed in it. For this, staples or screws are used.
6. Solid blocks are glued to the sides of the lintel.
7. Concrete is mixed. The solution is poured into the groove and distributed evenly throughout the entire volume.
8. Air bubbles are removed using a steel rod.
9. Excess concrete is removed with a spatula and the surface is leveled.

The support can be removed no earlier than after 14 days, when the mixture has completely hardened. It is allowed to continue laying after 3-4 hours.

Pouring armored belt between floors - methods

To install floor slabs on the walls, their surface is reinforced with a reinforced concrete reinforced belt.

There are the following methods for making this design:

1. Using U-shaped profiles. A technology similar to the installation of window lintels. The strength of such a perimeter is sufficient for a lightweight reinforced concrete slab.
2. Making a box from thin blocks 5 cm thick and 20 cm high. They are glued to the edges of the wall, after which reinforcement is laid between them and cement mortar is poured.
3. Monolithic reinforced concrete. Formwork is used into which concrete is poured. It scrolls to the wall or is installed on pins driven into it.

To achieve the required structural strength, reinforcement should be carried out with 16 mm rods.

Interfloor ceiling

After the first level of the building is completed, the interfloor ceiling is erected. For its construction, solid wood beams, hollow concrete slabs or reinforced concrete products in the form of columns are used. Considering the specifics of the building (high temperatures and risk of fire), it is recommended to use non-combustible materials followed by decorative finishing.

If a decision is made in favor of timber, then before laying it must be treated with an antiseptic, fire retardant and hydrophobic compound. Installation is carried out on a layer of waterproofing, which is roofing felt.

Design features of aerated blocks

Aerated blocks are made of concrete with the addition of gas, which makes the texture porous. Gas bubbles in the blocks allow for better heat retention, which is not bad for a bathhouse. But working with the material is not so easy, since it does not tolerate moisture. And the manufacturers’ assurances about durability are too hasty. It’s just that the material began to be produced no more than 30 years ago, so it’s too early to talk about durability.

The second important point is that not everything that is a plus when building a house will have a good effect on the bathhouse. Traditionally, baths were assembled only from wood. But the emergence of new materials and the rise in wood prices took their toll. Bathhouses made of aerated blocks are increasingly being built on sites, but with high-quality finishing, only a specialist can distinguish the structure from a wooden one. The pros and cons of the material are responsible for the quality characteristics of the bath.

Positive about gas blocks

1. The thermal insulation of a bathhouse made of gas blocks is only slightly inferior to a structure made of timber, and assembling the box is 2-3 times cheaper. Comparing with brickwork, one row is equal to 1.5 rows of brick.
2. In terms of hardness and density, the blocks are not inferior to brick and wood, and they are easier to work with. You can saw or saw off a piece with your own hands using improvised tools.
3. When talking about wooden bath structures, environmental friendliness comes first, but gas blocks also consist of natural materials. When heated, they do not release toxic elements.
4. They do not rot and tolerate mechanical and chemical influences well.
5. Mice will not settle in the gas block, nor will microorganisms.
6. It is faster to assemble a wall from blocks than from brick or wood.
7. Due to their porous texture, the blocks are light in weight and work can be carried out without the use of machinery.
8. The material is lightweight, so there is no need to make a massive foundation structure. A simple belt bath to the depth of soil freezing is suitable for a block bath.

But along with the advantages, there are disadvantages that adversely affect the design of the bathhouse.

Disadvantages of the material

1. It releases moisture for a long time, which it easily absorbs. Drying a bathhouse made of gas blocks is quite difficult. And the installation of additional ventilation affects the area of ​​the premises. You can install windows in all rooms, but this will also apply to the steam room. This means heat loss will be higher.
2. As we have already said, the material has not been tested by time, so it is difficult to say how long the structure will last.
3. There will not be a true woody spirit in a bathhouse made of aerated concrete, but this opinion is controversial, since interior decoration made of natural wood will correct the situation.
4. The walls of the bathhouse will breathe less, which means the climate will not be as comfortable.
5. Building a bathhouse is not expensive, but you need to carry out interior and exterior finishing and insulation, which incurs additional costs. There are opinions that it is enough to treat the material with liquid glass and cover it with brick, but any sealant is chemical.
6. The foundation of a bathhouse made of aerated blocks must be waterproofed on all sides, since the material easily absorbs water.

Block sizes and masonry sizes

According to GOST 13015.1, ten standard sizes have been developed for foam blocks with glue, and eight for the construction of walls with cement-sand mortar.

The following standard sizes (in cm) have been developed for adhesive masonry:

1. 18.8 x 30.0 x 58.8;
2. 18.8 x 25.0 x 58.8;
3. 28.8 x 20.0 x 58.8;
4. 18.8 x 20.0 x 38.8;
5. 28.8 x 25.0 x 28.8;
6. 14.4 x 30.0 x 58.8;
7. 11.9 x 25.0 x 58.8;
8. 8.8 x 30.0 x 58.8;
9. 8.8 x 25.0 x 58.8;
10. 8.8 x 20.0 x 39.8.

The following standard sizes (in cm) have been developed for cement masonry:

1. 19.8 x 29.5 x 59.8;
2. 19.8 x 24.5 x 59.8;
3. 29.8 x 19.5 x 59.8;
4. 19.8 x 19.5 x 39.8;
5. 29.8 x 24.5 x 29.8;
6. 9.8 x 29.5 x 59.8;
7. 9.8 x 24.5 x 59.8;
8. 9.8 x 19.5 x 39.8.

The maximum length of the product according to GOST 21520-89600 is 60 cm.