Water tank for a bath: how to choose the right one, design features, types and installation methods

It’s hard to imagine a traditional bath without hot steam, a fragrant broom and a warm shower after bath procedures. To organize hot water supply in a bathhouse, the main heat source is often used - an electric or wood-burning stove.

An alternative option is a water tank for a bathhouse, which is mounted on a heating boiler or stove. Read more about how to wisely choose a device of suitable volume and configuration for a private sauna or bathhouse.

Materials for making tanks

The type of material used to make the sauna tank determines the durability and reliability of the structure, the speed of heating and cooling of the liquid. Water heating devices are made of stainless steel, cast iron and metal.

Stainless steel

The most popular material for the manufacture of tanks for heating water in a bathhouse is stainless steel. It is resistant to corrosion, fire, high humidity, deformation and damage.

In addition, stainless steel products have high thermal conductivity, hygiene and resistance to temperature changes.

The stainless steel tank can be presented in cylindrical and rectangular shape.

Proper care of stainless steel products guarantees efficient operation and a long service life.

Made of cast iron

Cast iron remains the traditional material for making water tanks. It has good performance characteristics - low thermal conductivity, resistance to corrosion, deformation, mold and overheating.

The disadvantages of cast iron products include their impressive weight and complexity of installation.

In cast iron tanks, water heats up slowly, but also cools down over a long period of time. Therefore, one volume is enough to satisfy hot water needs for the whole day.

Made of metal

The cheapest option is metal tanks, which are susceptible to corrosion, rotting and deformation. Such characteristics can negatively affect the quality of water and the durability of the product.

It is strictly forbidden to paint metal devices with moisture-resistant paint, which can release toxic substances when heated.

Less popular are enameled tanks, which are sensitive to mechanical damage. If there are chips in the enamel, such devices are not recommended. To protect the heaters from possible corrosion, their surface is treated with a special heat-resistant compound.

Stainless steel tanks of the remote type are considered the most practical and reliable. Such designs are distinguished by their attractive appearance and safe operation.

Selecting the optimal tank volume

An equally important task is to determine the appropriate tank volume. The calculation of this parameter should be carried out taking into account the rate of water consumption per adult for bathing procedures, which ranges from 18 to 26 liters of water.

For a family of 2 people, it is enough to purchase a 50-liter tank, for a holiday with a group of 4 to 6 people - a 100-liter tank.

Factory models of water heating devices are presented in a wide range of volumes - from 20 to 200 liters. Electric boilers also have different volumes - from 30 to 100 liters.

Difference by type

The simplest designs of heat exchangers are coils with ends removed from the tank: one takes in liquid at room temperature, the other releases hot liquid.

More complex ones are a system consisting of two metal tanks with anti-corrosion properties - cylindrical and rectangular in shape with connecting pipes.

There are two ways:

1. This photo shows an option for installing a heat exchanger in a steam room and a tank in a wash room.

The second option is to install a heat exchanger with a tank inside the steam room.

Advantages of installing a heat exchanger in a steam room

• high water heating speed;
• saving free space in the steam room;
• Wide range of options for installing the tank - in a steam room or in a shower room.

Boiler for a bath

Boilers are effective in regions where there is no firewood. Gas and solid fuel options are popular. It is better to prefer solid fuels on peat. Unlike coal, they do not pollute the surrounding area.

There are two options with boilers. Either connect the tank to the heat exchanger in the bathhouse (the heat exchanger is placed in the combustion chamber of the boiler), or install the tank on the boiler itself.

Information. Unlike stoves, boilers are not assembled from bricks, but are purchased ready-made. The design with a heat exchanger has maximum efficiency; by the way, it can be implemented without a ready-made expensive boiler. This is discussed below.

You can use homemade boilers for a bath from a pipe, but this requires good quality welding work, which is the main difficulty. A common option is to manufacture the boiler and tank from large-diameter stainless pipes.

Wood-burning sauna boilers with a tank are produced ready-made. Structurally, they are designed in the same way as a regular sauna stove and differ in size. Their water capacity is usually larger, and the area for installing stones for soaring is smaller.

What are bath water tanks made of?

First, let's talk about what the tank can be made of.

In addition, stainless steel containers are quite heat-resistant and durable and are not negatively affected by sudden temperature changes. However, there is one drawback: the prices for stainless steel bath tanks exceed the cost of their steel “brothers” made of enameled steel. To be fair, we note that this can be neglected: a stainless steel container will last longer than its steel counterparts.

In modern production conditions, enameled steel tanks also have a long service life. Parameters such as resistance to corrosion and high temperatures indicate a fairly high quality of products: the tanks in the bathhouse do not rust.

But still, enameled steel cannot be compared with stainless steel (although it is successfully used in the production of tanks). The only thing in which steel containers are superior to their stainless counterparts is price: the cost of enameled products is approximately 1.5-2 times lower.

Stainless steel and steel sauna tanks are by far the most popular, although there are other options (for example, cast iron sauna tanks).

Why stainless steel: key advantages of the material

The modern market offers a wide range of water tanks made of cast iron, stainless steel and enameled material. As practice shows, stainless steel is the most popular among bathhouse owners, which is due to the competent and acceptable ratio of operational and technical characteristics and cost indicators.

Stainless steel is characterized by excellent thermal conductivity, withstands temperature changes and objectively lasts longer than various ferrous metals.

Examples of stainless steel tanks

Stainless Steel Oven Mounting Tank

Stainless steel tank

Stainless steel containers

A logical question arises here: which of the existing brands of stainless steel is better suited for the manufacture of the container in question, intended for use in a bathhouse? Firstly, this is brand 08Х17 (430), secondly, 8-12Х18Н10 (304). The mentioned materials, among other things, are used for the production of tableware and are characterized by high resistance to high temperatures, are completely hygienic, do not rust or deform during use. In addition, such materials are unpretentious and extremely easy to maintain.

Composition and mechanical properties of different grades of stainless steel

To summarize the above, we can highlight 3 main advantages of water tanks made of stainless steel:

• the products do not require additional protection from high air humidity and can easily withstand operation in conditions typical for a steam room;
• Stainless steel has high thermal conductivity, which makes it possible to obtain hot water in the shortest possible time;
• Stainless steel tanks do not deform due to sudden temperature changes, or these deformations are insignificant.

Purpose

To obtain hot water in the wash room of your bath complex, several types of structures have been developed that operate on different types of fuel. But the most inexpensive is installing a heating tank on the heater and obtaining hot water together with heating the steam room.

The advantages of such a device are due not only to the reduction in the cost of hot water when heated with gas or electricity. This design avoids the risk of fire and electric shock when using these types of fuel.

Autonomous water heating systems are especially in demand for summer cottages and households in places with no natural gas supply. In this case, such tanks can be used for heating water and for household needs. The main thing is to choose the right tank for the volume and type of installation and install it correctly.

Welding stages

At the initial stage of welding, boards must be placed under the corners of the sheet, which will serve as the bottom. It is important that the thickness of the substrate is the same. This will give an even plane along the entire length and in the corners of the structure.

During the welding process, it is necessary to constantly check that the sides do not extend beyond the base. You can immediately grab all sides together, then weld them to the base.

The sheets should fit tightly to each other. The next stage is the final welding of the seams. Welding can be done inside the tank or outside.

There should be no lack of penetration. Self-welding takes about 7-8 working hours.

It is recommended to make the structure rigid. To do this, use squares inside the tank and on the outside. To drain the water, a pipe with a control valve is welded into the lower part.

You definitely need to put aside your laziness and check the structure for leaks. After completing the work, you should prepare a chalk solution and apply it to the seams from the inside.

When it dries, use a cloth soaked in kerosene to go along the seams of the tank from the outside. Purpose: identifying “lack of penetration” clogged with slag. It only takes a few minutes to control.

If the liquid does not appear, then everything is fine. If stains appear, the problem area should be boiled again. It is best to check and re-weld immediately before painting.

Installation can be done on pre-laid bricks, but it is better to use a stand. Next, fill the tank with water and observe for several days: no liquid appears on the walls of the structure.

Selecting the boiler power

It is important to take care of the installation of an RCD (residual current device). This will prevent accidental electric shock to bathhouse visitors.

This will prevent accidental electric shock to bathhouse visitors.

Based on the design features and range of water heaters, we can state the following:

• If you don’t have gas, then the heaters and boilers using this fuel will “pass” by your bathhouse. If you are the happy owner of a gas bath, then you can no longer consider other options.
• Electric water heaters are expensive, but there are no problems with installing the device. It is cut into the water supply and plugged into an outlet. And that’s it – you can use it. Moreover, an electric boiler is a “one-time” device - this device will prepare the next portion of hot water after 3-4 hours. In addition, instantaneous and electric storage water heaters are afraid of excessive humidity in the bathhouse “atmosphere”.
• If you are a supporter of budget solutions and want to have a supply of hot water until the heater goes out, then you will undoubtedly like wood-burning water heaters. In this case, the water in the tank is heated by the stove itself, which imposes some restrictions on the process of installing such water heaters. They are installed during the construction of the heater. But if you haven’t missed the moment, then you won’t find anything better.

Well, now let's talk about volume:

• Large companies need an appropriate amount of water. Therefore, for a company of 4-5 people, you need either an instantaneous water heater or a boiler with a capacity of 100-150 liters.
• One or two people or a company of three people will get by with a 50-80 liter boiler.
• The bathhouse for one “user” is equipped with a 30-liter boiler.

water heaters “Success”,

which are tanks with a capacity of 40 to 250 liters, heated by heating elements at 1.5-2 kW.

Water heater “Success” 125 l

The tank is made of sheet steel, at least a millimeter thick, and the heating element is equipped not only with a thermostat, but also with a mechanical temperature regulator.

Less sociable bathhouse owners will be interested in

model GARANTERM ER 150 V

Water heater GARANTERM ER 150 V

electric boiler for 150 liters, boiling water heating element for 1.5 kW. This dressing can serve a company of 3-4 people, who can not only rinse off in front of the steam room, but also take a full-fledged hot shower. Moreover, the heater body, as well as the outlet fittings, are made of stainless steel, and moisture-resistant polyurethane foam is used as a heat insulator.

The cost of the heater is 10-11 thousand rubles.

model Ermak KVS-10-2-90

Water heater model Ermak KVS-10-2-90

wood-burning storage water heater made of stainless steel with a capacity of 90 liters. This boiler boils water using both wood and heating elements with a power of up to 2.5 kW. Moreover, this boiler has relatively modest dimensions - the wood-burning firebox is built directly into the storage tank of the heater.

The cost of a stainless steel model is 15,000 rubles.

All the details and nuances

Depending on the purposes for which you will use the room, how many people will relax there, the choice of construction method will vary. If you plan to build an entire complex, then most likely you will have to be patient.

Building a sauna tank with your own hands or calling a construction company for help is a matter of your choice, but its presence will significantly simplify some processes.

Previously, the container was placed directly in the stove or above it. Since the slab itself is made of brick, stone or metal, the structure is truly strong and durable. Today there are many options for replacement. As an alternative to this, you may be offered:

• Remote
• Mounted
• Heated by heat exchanger

Those structures and tanks that have the ability to be transported are much more practical and can be easily moved to other rooms.

Recently, the production of this type of product has become more in demand. The latest generation technologies allow you to choose from a number of tanks with any parameters and efficiency, at a price that suits you.

The main purpose of such tanks is for greater release of light and soft steam, as well as water supply in the shower or other amenities. The volume of the container and its dimensions will depend on how great the need for water is. For 3 people, 50 liters is quite enough, 80 liters or more for noisy companies, or if the bathhouse is heated several times a day.

Good functioning is also influenced by factors such as the density or thickness of the metal. A stainless steel water container is very practical and maintains optimal temperature conditions well. It’s not worth saving on such a device, and you need to understand that high-quality material will cost much more.

The choice of tank plays a big role; during the combustion process, the temperature reaches 400 degrees; if the installation is attached to a chimney, then this level of steam goes beyond such a building and can be called a classic option, since it has become widely used in the last ten years. Choose a manufacturer responsibly and try to purchase only high-quality certified products.

What designs can be used

You can place the tank in the bathhouse in different ways. The main types used are:

Built-in design. In this case, the chimney pipe runs inside the tank. This structure is considered stationary, non-removable and is installed during the manufacture of the chimney. The tank can be made in the form of a pipe (cylindrical version) or have a rectangular cross-section

It is important to securely seal the bottom entrance of the pipe to prevent water from leaking out of the tank. To use water, outlets are made from the tank directly into the shower stall or intermediate tank

Given the elevated location of such a tank, water flows by gravity.

The device of a heater with a tank on the chimney

1. Hanging structure. Such a system is removable, i.e. installed on an existing chimney. The tank is placed close to the chimney pipe and securely attached to the column. Such containers can be purchased or made by yourself. This design is typical when a gutter is formed on the back wall, repeating the shape and diameter of the chimney, which makes it possible to bring the surfaces as close as possible and ensure high-quality heating.

Design of a hanging tank for a bath

1. Remote design. In principle, the water container itself can be placed in any convenient place (for example, in a shower). In this case, the energy of the chimney heats the coolant, which is sent to heat the water container. When such a heat exchanger is mounted on a bath pipe, the installation height of the tank must be selected so as to ensure gravity flow of the coolant according to the laws of physics, i.e. the warm flow rushes upward, and the cooled flow – downward. This design provides for the presence of additional elements in the form of a heat exchanger, but it also allows you to place the tank itself in the right place.

Water circulation diagram with a remote design of the tank and stove in the bathhouse

Depending on the design, the tank can be placed at different height levels. 3 options can be implemented:

1. At the stove level: the base of the tank is placed on the top of the stove, which means no additional brackets are required. The main disadvantage is that the height does not allow gravity flow of water for showering. In this case, it is scooped by hand.

Tanks at furnace level

1. On the chimney column. This design is located at a certain height, which eliminates the previous drawback. Mounting the tank requires special brackets, and the weight of the structure is limited.

1. Attic level. Here there is a reliable support for the tank in the form of a ceiling. The problem arises in a cold attic, where you will have to think about external thermal insulation.

Diagram of installing a water tank on a chimney at the attic level

When calculating the parameter, they usually proceed from the following requirement: 10 liters per person for a bath procedure and 5 liters per person when taking a shower. In addition, a reserve should be created for unforeseen circumstances.

There are various forms of water tanks for a bath on a chimney

The dimensions of the container also depend on the design and dimensions of the chimney. The most common type is a sauna tank with a 115 mm pipe. Naturally, a bath tank for a 150 mm pipe is made of a larger diameter, regardless of the need.

The choice of volume of a metal water tank depends on the number of family members. Formula for determining the volume of a cylindrical tank

Let's talk about the rules of installation and operation

System calculation

If you decide to install the system yourself, you will have to make certain calculations. It will be difficult to absolutely accurately calculate the dimensions and volume of the system, and there is no urgent need for this.

For example, 5 kW is enough to heat a medium-sized room. This power can be provided by a heat exchanger with an area of ​​1 m². But the temperature in the furnace constantly fluctuates; when fully heated, 1 m² provides up to 9 kW, and when the furnace goes out, the power begins to drop rapidly and can drop by 5 to 10 times. Therefore, the area of ​​the unit is taken with a significant margin, which makes it possible to equalize the heating of the liquid.

The configuration of the heat exchanger itself can be different; there is no consensus among experts. Some argue that stainless steel pipes are the best option, others prefer plates or manifolds consisting of 2 mating channels.

Connecting the system to the shower stall.

Tips for installation

If you decide to assemble the system yourself, then you should take into account several mandatory requirements.

• Tanks should be welded from metal with a thickness of at least 2.5 mm. The requirements for the upper, large tank are minimal; the main thing is that it does not rust or leak.
• The requirements for piping and the heat exchanger itself are somewhat higher; in the past, the most popular material for a heat exchanger was cast iron. Indeed, the material is very durable, does not corrode and holds the temperature for a long time. But cast iron also has serious disadvantages; it is heavy, which requires serious fastenings. And cast iron takes a long time to heat up.
• At this time, most experts prefer to assemble a system from stainless steel; its price is of course higher than that of cast iron or conventional steel grades that are susceptible to corrosion, but the savings here will cost more in the future. For the heat exchanger, stainless steel grades 08X17 (430) will be the most optimal; or 8-12Х18Н10 (304) they have optimal heat transfer parameters and meet all hygienic standards.
• As for the connecting pipes, naturally they should also be made of stainless steel. The drive pipe with cold water must initially, when leaving the large tank, fall slightly below the level of the heat exchanger; a drain valve is mounted at the lowest point and then rises at an angle of 2˚ to 5˚ to the entrance to the heat exchanger.
• The outlet pipe, through which hot water will flow into a large tank for a heated bath, must exit the heat exchanger, pass through the wall at an angle of at least 30˚ and connect to the tank.

Remote large capacity

The water tank for the bathhouse is remote; if a large container is used, it is installed on the floor. For baths with several sinks and showers, a pump must be installed.

It creates the required pressure, which makes it possible to use any modern plumbing fixtures, spray showers, hydromassage cabins and much more.

When installing the pump, care must be taken to ensure that it does not cause excessive noise.

It is reduced by the use of plastic pipeline fittings and the pipes themselves.

Also, the pump installation should be carried out outside the bathhouse.

Nowadays pipes are inexpensive, and you can make an elbow for the pump in any convenient place, for example, in a plumbing hatch, next to the water meter or in the utility room of the bathhouse.

The “water tank with heat exchanger” type arrangement for a bathhouse is suitable for heating the largest volumes of water. The tank capacity can exceed hundreds of liters. In other heating systems, such options are difficult to implement.

Information. All pipes, connecting fittings and pump must be heat-resistant (if plastic is used). For metal, ordinary ½ or ¼ inch steel pipes are optimal.

What it is

The device is used to heat water in the bath. Its operating principle is based on the physical properties of hot water, expanding and rising upward, while cold water remains below.

Typically the heat exchanger is small in size, so the liquid in it heats up quickly. Two pipes are connected to it - below and above. Thus, hot water through the upper pipe, replaced by cold water from below, rises into the tank, which can be located either in the steam room or in an adjacent room, usually in the sink. In this case, low-temperature water is constantly added to the heating device through the lower pipe without forced supply.

Options for heating water in a bath from a stove

The following models are distinguished:

1. Samovar-type container - installed on the outlet pipe of the chimney. Heating occurs due to the heat of the flue gases escaping into the chimney. A tap for dispensing hot water is connected to the fitting at the bottom of the tank. If you don’t have a washing machine, then this option will be an excellent solution for heating

We recommend paying attention to the following operating conditions:

• the use of a samovar-type tank is allowed only with bathhouse stoves;
• It is prohibited to operate an empty tank while the stove is operating;
• If you want to get a “Finnish sauna”, this option for heating water will not suit you, since if the steam room is heated for a long time, the liquid will begin to boil, which is why heavy steam is formed.

2. A samovar-type heat exchanger (small in size with the ability to connect to a tank), which can be located anywhere. It is convenient because, if available, the tank can be placed in the washing room. One of the obvious advantages over other options is that it quickly heats the water.

3. Heat exchanger, which is installed on the starting chimney.

4. Starting chimney + tank-backpack - an option with being in a steam room and the absence of controlled convection to warm up the room. The container comes into contact with the wall of the chimney pipe, due to which the liquid is heated. Among the disadvantages, it can also be noted that this model does not have protection from hard infrared radiation, and in case of strong heating, the water begins to boil.

5. Convector chimney with a heater built into it.

Features: the register is located inside a pipe from which 2 identical ¾-inch fittings with internal thread come out. Using pipes, the device is connected to a tank hanging in a convenient place.

May be:

• Built into the oven - when scale appears, it loses efficiency.
• Located near the chimney (on it) - it provides heating to the required temperature more slowly, but nothing settles on its inner surface, it is easy to access, and its repair is not difficult.

The choice depends on the user: what to give preference to, performance or ease of maintenance, saving usable space or fuel.

Material for production

Steel types are also considered productive today. This kind of substance has many advantages; it is resistant to changes in temperature and pressure, retains and conducts heat well. It is resistant to rust, corrosion and deformation. Cast iron products for water have similar properties, although it is worth noting that they are much heavier in weight, despite the fact that they maintain temperature for a long time and take a long time to build up the required level of heat.

As experience shows, devices have long been widely used in practice, but they also have their own characteristic disadvantages. If you install the container incorrectly, the water will boil faster than the room begins to fill with steam. Subsequently, the steam room produces moist, heavy air, which does not act as effectively on the body as dry steam.

conclusions

All methods of heating water in a bath described in this article are widely used. They are structurally thought out, safe and comfortable. It is only necessary to ensure their high-quality implementation. Like any other water systems, sauna water heaters must be sealed.

The tank for heating water in the bathhouse is installed in one copy. Using one tank with a large capacity, which is designed with a margin, is more profitable than several smaller tanks. In the construction of a bathhouse, we recommend that you read other articles on our website.

How to weld a water tank with your own hands

The simplicity of the design and mechanism of action allows you to make a sauna tank with your own hands. Thus, you can not only save money, but also quench the thirst of the inventor. First of all, you need to decide on the shape of the container and the material. You can choose a large diameter pipe or sheet material of a suitable size.

To make a sauna tank at home you will need the following set of tools:

• grinder with cutting and cleaning wheels;
• locksmith tools;
• welding machine;
• drill with metal drills;
• fitting;
• solvent and primer, brush;
• protective clothing and respiratory and eye protection.

Step-by-step production:

1. First you need to prepare the material. The metal is cleaned of dust and all kinds of contaminants.
2. Using a grinder, cut out blanks of the required size - in total there should be 6 planes-edges, which will form the tank - four vertical, a bottom and a lid.
3. The side parts are installed on the bottom edge and secured by welding.
4. All parts must be mutually perpendicular to ensure the stability of the structure.
5. The edges are first ground to the correct shape.
6. After making sure that the workpiece has right angles and bevels or there are no gaps, you can begin welding the seam around the perimeter of the bottom from the inside.
7. When the first seam has cooled, the slag is beaten off and welded to the second one.
8. The same applies to the seams between the vertical edges.
9. Next, they are welded from the outside along the seam. In this way, the necessary tightness is achieved. The cover will be removable, so the welding work is completed.
10. Using a drill, holes are made for pipes of the required diameter.
11. Holes for mounting are also drilled.
12. After securing all fittings and pipes, you can check the tank for leaks by filling it with water.
13. If there are no leaks or fistulas, you can install the structure in place and begin operation. Otherwise, welding work will have to be repeated on each seam until the inaccuracies are eliminated.

The last stage will be finishing work. The surface of the tank must be degreased with a solvent, and the seams must be cleaned with a file. After the solvent has dried, a heat-resistant primer is applied.

Features of the manufacturing process

The easiest way is to make a container of a rectangular or cubic shape; to work, you only need a grinder with a disk, a measuring stick, several bench clamps and the welder itself. The cut wall blanks are joined in pairs using clamps and secured with welding points or small seam strips.

After the side walls and bottom have been assembled, the stainless steel body is finally assembled with clamps and heated with a blowtorch. As soon as the sliver applied to the metal begins to smoke, you can begin to completely scald all the seams. Upon completion of the work, the welded block must be immediately covered with any heat-resistant, non-flammable material and allowed to cool slowly for a couple of hours.

Securing the remote tank and installing the heat exchanger

Remote sauna tank

For a sauna stove, a tank with a volume of 80-120 liters is sufficient. This container must be hung on the wall of the bathhouse so that the level of the tank is higher than the stove.

Scheme for connecting the tank and installing the furnace with heat exchanger

Connection diagram

Step 1. Choose a place to mount the tank. This can be either a steam room or a shower room behind an adjacent wall. We determine the mounting height using recommendations for the slope of inlet/outlet pipes.

Layout of the furnace and tank

Step 2. Most experienced craftsmen do not recommend hanging the remote tank directly on the wooden wall of the bathhouse. Therefore, we measure the width of the tank, saw the rail into several sections of the appropriate size, and fasten the sections to the wall of the bathhouse with nails.

Step 3. The tank must have technological holes for attaching it to the wall. We secure the tank with self-tapping screws or dowels, checking horizontal and vertical. The structure can be further strengthened with brackets, fixing them under the bottom of the tank.

Brackets under the tank bottom

Step 4. The remote water tank has three or four pipes. Two of them are intended for connection to the heat exchanger, the third is for filling the tank with water (it may not be there), through the fourth hot water is supplied to consumers. A check valve is connected to the pipe through which the tank will be filled with water. If the system is open (water is added manually through an open tank lid), then a non-return safety valve is not needed.

A faucet with or without a shower hose is connected to the pipe from which heated water will flow.

Step 5. There are two pipes left, to which you should connect corrugated steel pipes or install a copper network. Connections are made using fittings. It is permissible to use metal-plastic pipes, connecting them with adapters to the pipes of the tank and heat exchanger. All threaded connections are sealed with thread sealant.

Flexible water supply

Prices for metal-plastic pipes

metal-plastic pipes

Step 6. A tap is connected to the pipeline that leads from the tank to the heat exchanger to drain water from the system. The operation of draining the liquid will need to be performed every time after completing bath procedures, otherwise during cold weather the water may freeze in the pipes.

Furnace heat exchanger installation diagram

Step 7. A heat exchanger is hung on the wall of the furnace (or its fittings are brought out through the technological openings of the furnace, and the coil is located inside so that in the future there is no contact of the body metal with an open flame). The fasteners are tightened. Flexible corrugated hoses or pipes are supplied and connected to the heat exchanger with fittings. If necessary, holes are drilled in the wall with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the pipes.

Drilling holes

Pulling liners through holes in the wall

Connecting the line to the heat exchanger

Step 8. The system must be tested for leaks by supplying water under pressure.

Sauna stove with heat exchanger connected

An example of connecting a remote tank to the heat exchanger of a sauna stove

An example of connecting a remote tank to the heat exchanger of a sauna stove

Step 9. If you have a metal stove, then you can put it into operation. The brick kiln will have to be completed, finishing, testing and other preparatory work must be done. However, metal stoves can also be lined with bricks (they are placed on edge) on two or three sides. Such a screen additionally accumulates heat, increasing the efficiency of the furnace.

FAQ

How to paint the tank to prevent corrosion?

Give preference to paints that are designed for use in rooms with high humidity. They will protect the outer walls of the equipment from rust formation.

Can the heat exchanger built into a sauna stove defrost in severe frost if the remote tank has not yet frozen? I filled the water tank and didn’t heat the bathhouse for a month. Where will the water start to freeze in the heat exchanger or in the tank located under the ceiling?

Most likely, the water will freeze at about the same time. The heat exchanger will rupture, since there is nowhere for the water to expand. The expansion tank will most likely burst very soon too.

Which pump to use when organizing hot water from a remote tank to a shower?

Use a pressure boosting pump. Please note that it must work with hot water. Good reviews about the WILO pump. It has a flow sensor, that is, it turns on itself when the tap is opened.

What method of sealing threaded connections is best to use to connect the tank to the heat exchanger?

Tangit Unilok in the form of a thread showed itself very well.

Advantages and disadvantages

When heating a bathhouse, you do not need to waste resources on heating water

A tank of sufficient capacity will provide residents with heated water for hygiene procedures and household needs. The liquid in the container eliminates the problem of dry air. Compared to water heating devices running on gas or electricity, the advantage of using a tank is that there is no additional consumption of resources. Connecting the reservoir to the stove will also help out in the event of a temporary shutdown of the supply of main resources.

The disadvantages of tanks depend on the material and type of construction. In steel containers, water cools quickly; cast iron containers are heavy. Installing a tank on a pipe requires special skills. The heating rate is affected by the thickness of the walls of the product.

How to install and connect correctly?

During the process of installing and connecting a tank in a bathhouse, one of the main priorities is deciding how the water in the tank will be heated. The water in the tank can be heated either from the heat of the stove in the steam room, or using a heating element. The main factor here is the number of people visiting the steam room and their need for hot water. The thickness of the tank will also affect the rate at which the water heats up.

Connection diagrams for the water tank may vary. If there is running water in the premises, it is necessary to use a closed water supply system. For this purpose, it is most advisable to use a stove that has a coil, which, in turn, will be connected to a water reservoir and heat the liquid. The container itself can be mounted on the wall. Sometimes tanks are mounted directly above the furnaces, but with this installation option it is best to use lighter and smaller structures. For containers that have a water circuit, stainless steel or galvanized sheet is often used.

You need to connect according to the following instructions:

• The tank itself should be installed in the steam room and connected to the pipes using a coil.
• To achieve good circulation, it is worth connecting the upper part of the tank with the upper outlet of the coil, and the lower part of the tank, respectively, with the lower one. For this reason, cold water will enter from below, and hot water will be discharged from above.

• At the point where cold water will enter the tank, a safety and check valve is used.
• Then you need to set the threshold pressure for the valves at which they will operate. The drawings are presented below.

Thanks to this principle of operation, the liquid in the container will be heated using a coil. And after it is used, the tank will be filled with cold water again.

Remote, built-in or on a pipe?

Tanks for baths can be built-in, remote, or on a pipe - and each has its own pros and cons. Compare and evaluate which one is right for your bath.

Advantages of a tank built into the oven

Once upon a time, water tanks for the bathhouse were only built into the stove - so that the lower part of the boiler was placed in the upper part of the firebox - the hottest one. And the bottom of the tank in this case is in direct contact with the stove fire. Water can be drawn from such a container directly, or it can be discharged through the built-in tap.

Remote tank for a bath: pros and cons

Thanks to the ability to install a heat exchanger in the oven, the tank itself does not need to be tied to a specific place - it can even be installed in a washing room. According to the known laws of physics, cold water will fall into the heat exchanger, and hot water will rise back.

Tank on a pipe - hot water without problems!

But it happens that the bathhouse is used not for two or three hours, but for the whole day - for example, when they wash in it, but the time after the fire has already passed. Then the ideal option is a tank on a pipe in which the water will be constantly heated to the desired temperature. This is on the pipe through which the smoke comes out of the stove - and its temperature can reach 500? C. Such tanks can be quite large - after all, the heating area of ​​the pipe is quite large, and the water will heat up quickly and evenly.

There is one more advantage of this design - in such a bathhouse, smoke leakage through a crack in the pipe is impossible, because The tank in this case serves as a kind of fuse.

Anti-corrosion treatment

For metal tanks, corrosion is the main problem. The key solution is stainless steel, but for now, the price for it remains 10 times higher than usual (in terms of weight). In reality, a stainless steel tank costs not 10 times more than a regular steel tank, but much less. This happens because the thickness of the walls of the stainless steel tank is made smaller. There is no reserve required for thinning due to corrosion.

Anti-corrosion treatment of tanks is carried out in the factory. Technologies in this area do not stand still and are constantly being improved. Zinc has the strongest adhesion to steel. Various protective layers are applied on top of it.

There are two popular options for anti-corrosion protection. This is either paint for a hot water tank in a bathhouse, or glassy enamel, which is applied at high temperature. Enameled tanks are better protected from corrosion and high temperatures than painted ones.

The general technology for their manufacture is the same as for conventional enamel cookware. Glass-based food grade enamel is used for tanks and utensils, without the addition of lead.

Information. In some cases, they carry out independent anti-corrosion treatment of tanks. All homemade structures need it (with the exception of stainless steel). You need to use only specially developed compounds and apply them to a clean and grease-free surface.

What materials are used

The sauna tank is made of metal, but the specific material is selected taking into account financial capabilities, volume and heating characteristics. The most popular designs are:

1. Cast iron. Main advantages: high strength, durability, while the water temperature remains for a long time after the furnace has stopped firing. At the same time, the cast iron container warms up slowly, and most importantly, it has a large mass, which requires reliable support when installing the structure.
2. Steel. The cheapest and most accessible material used in economical structures. The water in a steel tank heats up quickly, but also cools quickly after the fire stops. The most important disadvantage is corrosion destruction, which requires protective covers. One of the common options for eliminating this drawback is the use of enamel tanks. However, when choosing this material, it should be taken into account that with local damage to the enamel, accelerated corrosion begins at the source of damage.
3. Stainless steel. A tank on a pipe for a stainless steel bath is considered the most common design, because... optimally combines cost and durability. The material is more expensive than ordinary steel, but is not subject to corrosion and has a long service life. At the same time, stainless steel can be welded, and you can make a tank from it yourself.

The remote design of the tank is in more gentle conditions. Extreme temperatures (400-500 degrees) only affect the heat exchanger located on the chimney. The walls of the tank itself do not heat above 70-80 degrees, which means it can be made from different materials. In addition, it is usually placed on the wall, where the risk of damage is reduced. In such conditions, decorated enamel containers become very popular. Supply pipes for a remote tank in a bathhouse can be made of metal, composite material and heat-resistant plastic

It is important to ensure their thermal insulation

Remote heat exchanger for a bath

The simplest and most affordable way to make a tank for a bath is the built-in version, when it is hung on the chimney. It’s not for nothing that such a system is called a samovar in everyday life, because it uses the same principle, i.e. heating the water with hot smoke rising through the inner pipe. Such a tank is installed during the construction of the stove or installed by dismantling a section of the chimney.

In the selected location, a pipe is mounted on brackets, so that the gap between the outer diameter of the chimney pipe and the inner body of the tank pipe provides the required volume. The base is welded at the bottom of the tank body, and all gaps are sealed with heat-resistant sealant. To drain water, an outlet with a tap is welded (Fig. 1). The upper part of the tank is closed with a lid.

Figure.1 Installation diagram of a bath tank

In principle, the tank body can be made in a rectangular shape for the required capacity. The wall thickness is selected taking into account the volume. To make a small tank with a volume of about 50-55 liters, you can use a metal sheet with a thickness of 0.9-1.2 mm, and for a container of more than 70-80 liters you will have to use metal with a thickness of at least 1.5 mm.

If there is a water supply to the bathhouse, then a remote system is more suitable. It is shown in Fig. 1. In this case, a coil is mounted on the chimney. The hot water exits towards the remote tank from above, and the coolant returns, respectively, from below. During installation, it is necessary to install the necessary shut-off equipment (valves, taps, taps).

When installing a tank in a bathhouse on a chimney pipe, you will need the following tools and equipment: a welding machine and electrodes with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm, a grinder, a hacksaw, an electric drill, a hammer drill, a hammer, pliers, a set of keys, a caliper, a tape measure.

The sauna tank on the chimney pipe allows you to have a supply of hot water without unnecessary fuel consumption.

Such a system uses the energy of futile smoke, which gives a significant economic effect. A system of different designs can be made and installed with your own hands.

Types of tanks

Water tanks of different configurations are installed. The method of heating water may also differ. When choosing a container, you should take into account all the nuances.

The purpose of the hot water tank in the bathhouse

Capacity

The volume of the installed tank depends on the number of people who can simultaneously be in the bathhouse and use hot water. On average, 10...20 liters of boiling water should be provided for each person (with a small reserve). Today, tanks with a volume of 50...100 liters are produced. As a rule, it is not advisable to install a tank with a capacity exceeding 100 liters.

The shape of the container can be any

Material

When choosing a container, you need to consider that it must be able to withstand high temperatures (up to 250 degrees) for a long time.

Metal tank for water in the bath

You should not try to save money and install tanks made of ferrous metals. This approach cannot be justified not from an aesthetic point of view, but mainly from practical reasons. Due to constant exposure to high temperatures, the metal will deform over time and traces of corrosion will appear on it. This significantly reduces the service life of the tanks and the quality of the water in them.

The most common tank option is stainless steel construction. The demand for such tanks is explained by their attractive appearance, durability, resistance to various types of external influences, high heating rate, ability to retain heat for a long time, relatively low weight, hygiene, high durability and ease of maintenance. The tank configuration may vary. But high-quality stainless steel costs a lot. And you need to take into account that today there are many counterfeit products on offer, which will soon rust.

Not so often, but there are tanks made of cast iron. They are not afraid of rust. However, it must be borne in mind that, despite the fact that the water in such structures will not cool quickly, it takes more time to heat it up. Due to the bulkiness of the tanks, you need to carefully consider their location. Today, not many companies produce cast iron tanks, and they are not very cheap.

Enameled containers can be used, but they are not the best option. Of course, such material does not corrode and is very hygienic.

But low resistance to mechanical damage over time will inevitably lead to the fact that the metal with a fairly thin coating will become chipped (as a result of not very careful handling) and these areas will rust. It will no longer be possible to fix the problem.

Location and design

Three methods are used to place the tank: traditional (directly near the firebox), on the chimney, and remotely. What is the difference?

Bath stove with tank

Tank built into the oven

The reservoir can be located on the side or above the firebox. The water in it heats up quite quickly (exposed to open fire). To drain it, a ball valve is installed. Of course, this design does not involve pipeline laying work, which saves labor and material resources. However, using such a container is not very convenient; usually a tank of not very large capacity is installed, and its installation takes up useful space in the steam room, which usually is not very much. The best solution in small-sized baths is the top location of the tank. Since the metal will be in direct contact with the fire, the thickness of the tank walls must be at least 8 mm.

Water tank next to metal firebox

Reservoir on a pipe

If the ceiling height allows, you can install the tank on the chimney. Water is heated by hot gases passing through it. To simplify the installation process, it is possible to purchase a container with built-in chimney elbows. This tank can be fixed without much effort. By laying a pipeline from the tank, you can carry water to any point in the bathhouse, for which a pipe is connected to the bottom of the tank, ensuring the flow of liquid, for example, into the shower. Filling a tank installed in this way is not very easy due to the high location of the filler hole. It is best to use a hose lowered into a container for these purposes.

Reservoir on a pipe

Remote design

Thanks to the installation of a heat exchanger on the heater (on the chimney or directly on the stove) and natural convection, it is possible to place the tank in the washing compartment.

Water tank over brick firebox

The heat exchanger can be integrated into the oven (removable or non-removable), but you can easily install it yourself. It is a coil or container with a volume of several liters with pipes to create a circuit.

Types of tanks

All tanks are divided into types according to two criteria: installation method and material of manufacture. According to the installation method, tanks are:

• built-in;
• remote;
• samovar type (mounted on a chimney).

According to the material of manufacture:

• cast iron;
• stainless steel;
• made of enameled steel.

Each type has models that differ in shape, volume, and wall thickness. Most containers are equipped with standard taps and have shower outlets, but there are also those from which water is drawn through the top using a ladle. In order not to make a mistake when choosing, you should familiarize yourself in detail with the advantages and disadvantages of all these types.

Built-in tanks

Built-in tanks

The most economical and convenient option. The tank is installed during the laying of the furnace. Its lower part is located inside the firebox, due to which the water is heated directly by the flame. Hot water is drawn through the top using a ladle or using a built-in tap.

Brick oven with water tank

Due to direct contact with fire, the walls and bottom of the container must be as thick as possible, therefore the most preferred material for such a tank is cast iron with a thickness of 5 mm. Stainless steel tanks with wall thicknesses of 1 and 1.5 mm are considered no less popular. Enameled steel containers are not suitable for this installation method. Cast iron tanks are bowl shaped, stainless steel tanks are usually cube or cylinder shaped.

Cast iron water tanks

Advantages of built-in tanks:

• water heats up quickly;
• the water temperature is maintained for a long time;
• free space is saved since the tank does not protrude beyond the stove;
• easy installation.

Flaws:

• the heat transfer of the furnace decreases, since the main part of the heat is spent on heating water;
• the dimensions of the tank are limited by the size of the furnace;
• the tank must have thick walls, which increases its weight and cost.

Metal tanks for sauna stoves

This method is convenient in cases where no more than 4 people are steaming in the bathhouse at the same time, or people wash separately. For example, if 3-4 people take turns steaming in a bathhouse, this takes quite a lot of time, and accordingly, it will take longer to maintain the water temperature by adding firewood. The built-in tank allows you to save on fuel while remaining hot for a very long time. But for large companies, this option is not the most optimal, since it does not provide the required amount of water.

Remote tanks

Remote tanks

The remote tank is located at a distance from the firebox and is connected by pipes to a heat exchanger built into the furnace. Without this, its operation is impossible. Most often, such a tank is installed in a washing room or mounted on the wall of a steam room next to the stove, if its dimensions are larger than the area of ​​the firebox. When choosing a location for a container, it is necessary to take into account that the length of the pipes should not exceed 2.5-3 m. Remote tanks can be made of stainless steel or enameled, cylindrical, rectangular or even triangular in shape - for installation in the corner of the room.

Triangular shaped water tank

Advantages:

• the tank is installed where it is more convenient;
• Large containers can be used;
• there is no direct contact with fire, so the tank can be enameled and with thinner walls.

If 6-8 people regularly steam in a sauna, a remote tank is an excellent option.

Flaws:

• without maintaining a fire in the firebox, the water quickly cools;
• the oven cannot be used without water in the circuit;
• more complex installation compared to a built-in tank.

Remote tank connection diagram

Tank on a pipe or “Samovar” design

This option involves installing a tank around a chimney, and in some models the pipe is located outside the tank, in others - inside.

Hot water tank on a pipe

Design option for a water tank on a pipe

In height, the tank can occupy the space from the stove to the ceiling, partially extend into the attic, or be attached only to a small section of the chimney above the stove. The most convenient container shape is cylindrical, but there are many models with rectangular, triangular and oval sections. Heating of water is carried out using smoke passing through a pipe, which has a very high temperature.

Oval shaped water tank

Advantages:

• fast and uniform heating of water;
• does not reduce the heat output of the furnace;
• space saving;
• you can install a container of any volume;
• the water stays hot for a long time.

This tank is suitable for any bathhouse and any number of people. It all depends on the size of the container.

Stoves with water tanks on a pipe

Flaws:

• installation complexity;
• increased soot deposition on the walls of the chimney.

When installing the tank, it is necessary to select the correct fastening elements in order to securely fix the tank in a vertical position. In addition, you will need to install pipes for supplying cold water and discharging hot water, and install a faucet.

Samovar type tank

Tank on the chimney

Criterias of choice

The main criterion for choosing a tank for a bath is its design. In this matter, everything depends on the characteristics of the room and the type of stove installed in it. Using the tank should be safe and comfortable. It is important to place the container in such a way as to eliminate the risk of getting burned by coming into contact with a hot wall.

It is also important to provide the most convenient method for collecting water. Highly located tanks must be equipped with taps.

The issue of price is also important. You should not save much on buying a tank - if you succumb to the temptation to buy a cheaper option, you can run into a fake (especially in the case of stainless steel) or purchase a short-lived model that will have to be replaced after a while.

Material

This is the second important criterion for selecting a water container. The durability of the container, the rate of water heating and cooling depend on the material.

Each option has some advantages and disadvantages:

Cast iron. The first metal from which tanks began to be made. Today it has lost its former popularity, but its advantages remain undeniable. Tanks made of cast iron are strong, reliable, durable, and do not deform at all. A container made of this metal is resistant to rust and fungus. Due to low thermal conductivity, the water in the tank retains a high temperature for a long time. However, heating requires a lot of time and fuel. The disadvantages of cast iron include its heavy weight, which complicates the transportation and installation process of the tank. Finding a tank made of this alloy nowadays is not so easy - even if it works, it will cost a lot.

Stainless steel. Most modern tank models are made from it. Stainless steel does not corrode, is lightweight, so the containers are easy to install, and the water in such containers heats up quickly. The obvious advantage of stainless steel tanks is their affordable price and high aesthetics. However, you should not purchase the cheapest models, since they are made of very thin metal, which is easily deformed and wears out quickly.

Enamel. Tanks made of metal coated with enamel have quality characteristics that are not inferior to stainless steel. But unlike them, they are sensitive to mechanical stress. A slight blow is enough for a piece of enamel to break off. Rust forms at this place. If the chipped area is small, you can restore the coating with special heat-resistant paint. However, if there are several crumbling areas or a wide area of ​​damage, the tank becomes unusable. An important point is the limited use of enamel tanks. They cannot be installed on the stove, since the coating cannot withstand contact with flame.

Black metals. Such metal containers have good strength, reliability, and can withstand high thermal and shock loads. However, they are prone to corrosion. Therefore, before using them for their intended purpose, they must be coated with a special composition containing zinc, which will prevent the occurrence of rust. Galvanized tanks will last until the paint starts to crack. Then, to restore protection against rust, you will have to apply it again. Ordinary dyes cannot be used - under the influence of high temperatures they will begin to release toxic fumes into the air, which can cause poisoning. Galvanized tanks are short-lived, but are in demand due to their low cost.

Stainless steel is usually chosen as the material for the manufacture of samovar containers, since when using other materials there is a high risk of corrosion, which is detrimental to normal operation. The thermal conductivity of stainless steel guarantees quick heating of the water in the samovar tank, and the strength of the material allows you not to be afraid of deformation of the device due to temperature changes.

Expert opinion

Lovkachev Boris Petrovich

Bath master who knows everything about steaming

For your information! The rarest type of bath tanks is plastic. They can also be installed in the bathhouse, but not in the steam room itself - there is a high risk of fire there. They are also unable to keep warm for a long time. However, plastic models have their advantages: they do not rust, weigh little, they are easy to move and install, so these containers have their admirers.

Dimensions

The volume of the tank is selected based on the number of visitors to the bathhouse: 1 person will need about 10-20 liters of water per time.

Therefore, this volume is taken as the starting point:

• 50 liters is enough for a married couple;

• for 3 household members - 70 or 80 liters, respectively;

• if 4 or 5 people wash in the bathhouse at the same time, the water consumption will be from 100 liters to 125 liters.

When choosing a volume, you also need to consider the following factors:

• if the stove is low-power and the volume of the steam room is large, then the water in a large container will not have time to heat up;

• if the tank is too small, the water in it will boil away too quickly.

When choosing the required displacement, you need to analyze and weigh all the information and choose exactly the option that will satisfy each of the 3 conditions.

Advice! It is better to take a tank with a reserve - a capacity of 10-20 liters more than the actual liquid consumption. If you need a large volume of hot water, you should consider installing the tank in the attic. The ceilings will become a reliable base for the container, so the choice of its dimensions is very wide.

Wall thickness

This is an important parameter for selecting a tank for a bath. The greater thickness ensures more uniform heating of the water and keeps the water hot for a long time. But at the same time, thick metal makes the tank much heavier and more expensive.

Stainless steel tanks with a volume of 50 liters should have a wall no thinner than 0.8 mm, optimally 1 mm. Stainless steel tanks with a volume of more than 100 liters must have a wall thickness of at least 1.2 mm, optimally 1.5 mm.

How and how to connect the external tank to the heat exchanger

Remember that the elements in contact with the stove become hot, their surface temperature exceeds 100 0C. Therefore, the pipes must be made of stainless steel (cast iron will not work, as it is susceptible to corrosion). But ordinary pipes are allowed to be made of metal-plastic; they can even be replaced with flexible hoses. The main thing is that the diameter is 1 inch or 3/4, otherwise the circulation will be poor.

Use tangit for seals, and paronite for fittings. Feel free to replace factory elements with non-standard ones, but made of heat-resistant material. Don't forget about the drain valve - it is simply necessary to preserve the system for the cold season or to quickly remove stagnant liquid. Otherwise, during frosts, the remaining water will freeze and burst the pipes.

Heat exchangers

The easiest way to heat water in a bathhouse through a heat exchanger is to use ready-made blocks from heating systems. The heat exchanger is the most complex and critical component. It is placed in the flame of a gas boiler in a bathhouse, in the flame of a sauna stove.

The heat exchanger requires good heat resistance.

The best material is cast iron. Castings made from it have thick walls and last a long time.

Steel heat exchangers are also common.

They can also be recommended for baths.

In terms of the average daily number of operating hours, the bathhouse is inferior to a conventional boiler room or kitchen heater.

Therefore, its heat exchanger may well be steel with a small wall thickness. Thus, hot water in the bath will be obtained as quickly as possible through the heat exchanger.

A heat exchanger for hot water in a bathhouse is purchased complete with a boiler, stove, or removed from worn-out equipment. There are many sources for obtaining such elements.

These are gas hot water heaters, single-circuit and double-circuit boilers. Refrigerator and air conditioner condensers are not suitable for flame heat exchangers.

Important! When using components from dissimilar systems, care must be taken to ensure their structural compatibility and overall circuit tightness. Use new adapters and all connecting fittings.

A sauna tank with a heat exchanger is made from different materials. It is only necessary to ensure compatibility of the diameters of the connecting fittings. Kits from heating networks are optimally suited. Kits from hot water supply systems are also optimal.

Instead of a heat exchanger that is placed in the combustion chamber of a boiler or furnace firebox, you can purchase a heat exchanger for a bath on a pipe. This is a special factory-made design. In appearance, it resembles an ordinary pipe tank, but of small capacity. There is no such tank casing inside.

Information. The advantage of using a heat exchanger on a pipe is that there is no need to redesign the furnace. The disadvantage is lower efficiency compared to a flame heat exchanger.

How to make a stove for a bath of a suitable size with a coupling of 400, 500, 530 mm

The choice of a homemade device depends on the dimensions of the paired compartment and the priorities of the owner. The manufacture of any type of structure is regulated by the standards PPB 01–93 and SNiP 41–01-2003. Regardless of whether the oven is horizontal or vertical, a number of general rules apply:

• For a heater you will need a sheet of 30x35 cm. The distance from the top of the heater to the bottom of the tank is at least ten centimeters.
• The back wall is completely welded, and a door is mounted on the facade.
• A coupling made of steel strip with a thickness of 400, 500 or 530 mm is attached to the top. Its width is approximately 5 cm. Half is welded to the body, and the protruding part is used for assembly.
• When installing the chimney, leave a third of the top area of ​​the tank unsealed so that you can fill in water. A door with a handle is attached to the bay opening.
• A tap with a valve is welded at the bottom of the tank.

Important! The heater is filled with cobblestones only to half the space. You can equip the entrance hole with an iron rod to prevent cobblestones from falling out

Vertical homemade device

In a design built on a vertical principle, the grate is located above the heater.

The diameter of the stove will depend on the caliber of the selected pipe.

When installing a vertical sauna stove with your own hands, adhere to the following algorithm:

• Cut off a piece of pipe approximately 0.8 m long.
• Clean the cut edges.
• The bottom is welded from below - a circle of the same diameter as the pipe itself.
• Cut out the vent opening at the bottom.
• The grate bars are installed. They are located slightly above the blower hole.
• A slit for the combustion compartment is cut above the grate.

A hole is made on top of the stove for the chimney. All openings are equipped with doors adjusted to size. After the work is done, the stove is sanded and coated with paint.

Do-it-yourself horizontal design: photo

A distinctive feature of this type of device is that the firebox is moved from the steam room to the dressing room, which makes ignition easier and faster. But horizontal ovens require much more space.

Photo 2. A horizontal stove with a brick lining, located in the dressing room, requiring a fairly large space for installation.

To manufacture the device, a piece of pipe measuring 0.8 m is taken and the openings are sanded. A grate is installed below. A metal sheet sufficient to cut out a rectangle of the required size is suitable for it. The middle is cut out of the material, while the edges are left not too narrow. Then the metal rods are welded. The finished grate is mounted to the body.

Photo 3. Homemade horizontal sauna stove with a water tank and a compartment for stones.

For the rear section of the device, a metal rectangle slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe is suitable. If you plan to install a heater, you need to take this into account when cutting and add a larger allowance.

The sheet for the facade will be approximately the same size. Holes for the firebox and air vent are cut out in it. The mold is then welded to the front of the pipe. A square hole of approximately 12x12 cm is cut out from the top of the body. This will be the chimney. Next, the doors are hung.

Photo 4. Small metal sauna stove with a firebox and blower, with a hole for the chimney.

Before painting, the unit is thoroughly cleaned of plaque and rust. As a finish, you can line the structure with brick.

Attention! If you are painting the stove, at the end of the procedure, heat it outside!

Pros and cons of different designs

Depending on the circumstances, individual advantages may outweigh the disadvantages. It is clear that if the tank is located on the stove or attached to the side, then three unpleasant things follow from this:

• Constant heating of water will lead to the formation of steam, but it will not be the steam heated over 100 degrees, which is called light - it is obtained only from overheated stones. And the usual heavy steam will pour out of the container, which makes it difficult to stay in the steam room.
• Using heated water for washing is problematic if the steam room is not combined with a steam room. You will have to carry hot water to the washroom and wash the way your ancestors washed).
• In tanks built on the side of the stove, heating occurs the worst, because the walls of the stove do not heat up as much as the top or chimney. Plus, over time, the wall of the tank itself will lose thermal conductivity due to scale, and the wall of the furnace will lose its thermal conductivity due to scale. Therefore, the water does not warm up well, remains cold at the bottom, and must be stirred manually.

However, such structures also have advantages - they are easy to fill with water precisely because the container is not located high. But this is if there is no cold water supply either. Otherwise, the plus is leveled out.

By the way! The larger the contact area between the container with water and the oven, the faster the heating. But this is not always worth striving for - why do you need clouds of heavy steam in an unheated bathhouse?

Of course, you still have the opportunity to set up a shower from any tank. And, although stove makers do not recommend using a pump, the forced circulation of liquid in the system will calmly take water from either the manual or the attached tank. The main thing is not to forget to add more.

We ourselves consider the optimal system to be one in which the tank is mounted on the chimney. Whether it will be a large tank or a heat exchanger depends on how you are more accustomed or more comfortable to wash. Well, or whether there is a pump in the system or not.

Photo: samovar-type heat exchanger

However, the optimal system also has its drawbacks. In particular, traders admit that the connection between the tank and the pipe at the inlet below can suffer greatly from overheating, for example, in a situation where water is poured after the stove has been lit. Then the seam splits and needs to be welded. Another drawback is that the pipe burns out when the furnace heats up too much.

Pay attention to the size of the filler hole. For some tanks it is large, it even has a hinged lid, while for others it is small, round

Still, you will have to fill tens of liters, and also wash the inside of the tank from time to time!

On a note! The stove should not be heated to the limit of its capabilities. This shortens the service life of the metal, which inevitably oxidizes and turns into scale, and then it crumbles and holes remain. The bottom piece of the chimney will also burn out if you heat it like this. If you don't want this, insert a piece of black structural steel pipe of the required diameter inside. It will take away some of the heat and add strength to the structure.

Useful video

This video explains in more detail about strengthening the chimney with pipe cutting:

You can learn more about the disadvantages of a hinged and chimney-mounted tank from the following videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5TRvRjgmLs

HOW TO MAKE A WATER TANK WITH YOUR OWN HANDS

Making a tank backpack is not much of a problem. A drawing of one of the options for a future water heater is shown below.

For manufacturing you will need two pieces of steel pipes. A pipe with a diameter of 125 mm is used for the inner wall. For the outer part, you can use a workpiece with a diameter of 175-250 mm.

In addition, you will need to cut out two bottoms and two walls from thin sheet metal. A neck is welded in the upper part, and a fitting is cut into the bottom for connecting the tap. All work is performed only using a carbon dioxide semi-automatic machine. The backpack tank is attached to the chimney using metal loops.

Mounted

This design option is hung on a standard metal sauna stove. The presence of metal walls of the furnace is mandatory, since heat is transferred through one of them to the water in the tank. This design is not widely used due to low efficiency, but its main advantage is maximum simplicity.

A hanging tank for a bathhouse is usually made of thin stainless steel. It is placed outside the stove and located in a visible place in the bathhouse. Stainless steel is not only an ideal material for water tanks, but also has a beautiful appearance.

When you need the simplest tank for hot water in a bathhouse, wall-mounted installation is best. With it, you don’t even need to do pipe routing. The tank is delivered completely ready.

The bath tap for hot water is also included with the tank upon purchase. The spigot is located at the center of the lowest point, and the bottom is usually flat or has a conical stamping.

The inconvenience of this location of the tap is the small distance from the floor. In addition, the stove is often placed in the corner of the bathhouse. One side of it is occupied by the door, and the other by the tank. Thus, it turns out that the tap is in a very inconvenient place. This problem is solved by installing a pump.

Information. For a wall-mounted tank, the sauna stove should be standard. This is either a ready-made structure, or a home-made one, but having at least one flat metal wall of the appropriate size for the tank.

Wall-mounted tanks have either a removable lid or a filler neck with a diameter of at least 10 cm. A filler neck is much more common. It makes cleaning and processing the internal space somewhat more difficult, but makes the structure more durable.

The cheapest designs of hanging tanks are welded from sheet steel and galvanized. The service life of such structures is short. Stainless steel thin-walled structures are gaining popularity.

Due to their small wall thickness, they are affordable. Steel enameled tanks are rarely used as hinged tanks on the stove.

Requirements for installing a sauna stove

It is necessary to follow the rules for installing stoves in order to prevent fire.
Stoves and chimneys of sauna stoves heat up to temperatures of 200 ° C and higher, and therefore pose an increased danger:

• High temperatures can cause floors, walls and ceilings made of flammable materials to catch fire.
• All surfaces can cause severe burns if handled carelessly.
• When wood burns, dangerous gases are released that must be removed into the chimney.

The danger is eliminated by the correct choice of stove and chimney design, high-quality thermal insulation of surfaces, and the correct choice of location.

The operating rules are described in detail in the governing documents: Fire Safety Rules, SNiP 41-01-2003 Heating, ventilation and air conditioning, GOST 53321-2009 Heat-generating devices operating on various types of fuel.

Brickwork isolates the stove from the wooden wall in the bathhouse

Primary requirements:

• Adjacent surfaces made of flammable materials should not heat above 45 °C. To do this, choose a distance from the stove to the walls and ceiling of at least 50 cm or use heat-insulating screens.
• The protective screen under the stove should be no thinner than 5 cm and covered with a steel sheet 1 mm or thicker. The protection should protrude 10 cm beyond the stove, including 50 cm from the firebox side.
• The distance from the combustible ceiling for the stove is more than 1 meter and at least 80 cm if the materials do not burn.
• The chimney should not have more than 3 turns at an angle greater than 30°.
• The maximum length of the horizontal section of the chimney is no more than 1 meter.
• If the roof is flammable, then the top of the pipe is equipped with a spark arrestor head with holes from 1 to 5 mm.
• When passing through wooden structures, metal cuttings with a diameter of at least 50 cm are arranged.
• The minimum diameter of the chimney pipe is calculated using the formula D pipe in mm = volume of the combustion chamber in liters x 1.27.
• The firebox is turned towards the exit from the steam room or fuel is placed on the side of the dressing room.

To prevent burns, metal stoves are protected with protective screens to prevent accidental touches.

What is important to consider when choosing the right model

There are several factors that determine the intensity of heating of the room and the quality of the steam in the steam room. These are the ones you should focus on when looking for the right stove:

Power. This is the main criterion for choosing any heating device. The power should be sufficient for good heating, but not excessive, so as not to create unnecessary problems. When calculating, they are guided by the volume of the room. For heating 1 cubic meter. 1 kW of power required.

Type of fuel. It is necessary to choose a fuel that is always available in the area where the bathhouse is located. Ideally, it should also be cheap. In gasified areas there is no problem with this, but still many bathhouse owners choose solid fuel models. This is a tribute to tradition. You can buy a design that will be designed for both gas and firewood.

Installation method. The type of lighting depends on the location of the stove - from inside or outside the steam room. A model with a regular combustion channel is suitable if you will be heating from a steam room. If you plan to use kindling from the dressing room or rest room, then it is better to choose a design with an extended combustion channel.

Design. The model should be easy to use and fit into the overall style of the bathhouse design. The appearance of the stove cannot be considered a determining factor in choice, but it is still important, because... Any bathhouse owner wants to equip themselves with a cozy place of rest and relaxation.

Volume and type of water tank. Before purchasing, you should calculate the desired volume of the water tank and its location relative to the stove. For each specific room, you should choose a model based on the layout. In some cases, the best solution would be to purchase a stove with a built-in heat exchanger.

Scheme of the design of a furnace with a built-in tank

What can a water tank look like?

When purchasing a sauna stove with a water tank, pay attention to its location and connection method. There are the following main types of tanks: Mounted

Located on the body of the model, it heats up as the walls of the stove warm up. There is an additional benefit: due to the reservoir, the heated surface area increases. This is the simplest option in terms of installation, however, it will not be possible to organize a shower with such a tank, and the water heats up too quickly

Mounted. Located on the body of the model, it heats up as the walls of the stove warm up. There is an additional benefit: due to the reservoir, the heated surface area increases. This is the simplest option in terms of installation, however, it will not be possible to organize a shower with such a tank, and the water heats up too quickly.

Mentor. The water reservoir can be installed directly on the combustion chamber. This is not always convenient. Water can heat up much earlier than the air in the room. In addition, the material of the tank can quickly burn out and the seams can come apart.

On the chimney pipe. A tank of this type resembles a samovar in appearance, which is why the designs are often called samovar. The tank is mounted on a pipe, and the water in it is heated with the help of hot gases rising upward. This allows for more efficient use of fuel. The shape of the tanks is square or round. Often they are placed so that they serve as a passageway to the roof.

Remote. An ideal option for baths where the stove is located in the steam room, and the tank should be located in the washing room. The water is heated using a built-in heat exchanger. Thanks to the design features of such a tank, a situation where the water is already boiling and the room has not yet warmed up enough is eliminated. The disadvantages include the high cost and complexity of installation compared to other types of tanks.

Model "Varvara" with a mounted tank

Deciding on the amount of water

There are standard recommendations according to which the water tank for a bath should be selected at the rate of 20 liters per steam room visitor. No more than 5-7 liters are spent on spraying the heater, the rest is used in the washing department. In reality, taking into account cleaning and washing the premises, at least 25 liters of water are used.

As a result, a small steam room in a bathhouse for 3-4 people will require at least 100 liters of boiling water. It is clear that no one will make a hundred-liter tank for a single visit to the steam room, and no one will put a barrel in a bathhouse for cold water either. Unless the owners built a real Russian stove with a heater in the bathhouse, and the process of bathing gatherings in a group lasts for the whole day.

For your information! This amount of water in the bathhouse will heat up for at least 2-2.5 hours, while heating a steam room takes a maximum of 1-1.5 hours.

Therefore, the size of the water tank is determined depending on the conditions of the steam room:

• For small steam rooms with an area of ​​2-4 m2, choose a water container with a volume of up to 40 liters. Usually, in such a layout, a tank on a pipe or attachment-type devices are used for a bathhouse;
• Paired rooms with an area of ​​up to 7 m2 are equipped with tanks with a capacity of up to 60-70 liters. In this case, a mounting-type container is mounted on the firebox or a backpack tank is attached to the chimney with a hanging cylinder;
• Large steam rooms with an area of ​​8 m2 or more are equipped with hanging-type heating tanks.

It is clear that you can put a tank of cold water in the utility room of the bathhouse and periodically top up the supply as the boiling water is consumed.

Advice! If possible, try to equip the tank in the bathhouse with a cold water supply from an external source.

This somewhat complicates the heating design, but makes it as safe and comfortable to maintain as possible. Anyone who has had to perform the duties of a stoker or bathhouse attendant knows how unsafe the process of manually filling a container placed above a hot stove can be. The most common option is to install a barrel of cold water in the attic of the bathhouse.