How to make a clay mortar for laying a stove - features and nuances of making a masonry mixture

Today, the construction of buildings can be made from various materials. New, cost-effective construction technologies from combined materials are gaining popularity, but despite all the new products, brick construction is considered the most reliable, and buildings are warmer and more durable.

An important element of brickwork is the mortar, which is used to create a durable structure from individual elements.

Furnace design and masonry mortar

Brick sauna stoves are large structures, their parts function in different conditions. The humidity level and temperature conditions at the base of the stove, next to the firebox and in the chimney duct are different. Temperature delta can reach from 0 to 1000 degrees or more. Smoke passes through the firebox and chimney. In addition, the pipe is exposed to rain, wind and cold. A universal mortar that would fit all these parameters and withstand them with honor has not yet been invented.

Cement or lime, either together or separately, cannot withstand such a temperature range.

On a note. Clay spreads in water, lime allows gases to pass through. Therefore, where the steam room, washing room and rest room use at least three types of masonry mixtures. They will all be different in their performance characteristics.

In addition, it should be borne in mind that fire-resistant solutions are expensive. It is advisable to use them where the maximum temperature develops. But for the foundation and main structural parts of the furnace, you can prepare cheaper mixtures. Clay is considered a relatively inexpensive building material. If you wish, you can obtain it yourself, and then the solution will be practically free. All that remains is to determine its quality and suitability for masonry and prepare it in a special way.

Clay sand mortar for furnaces is also sold and manufactured in factories. There is already a calculated ratio of components. The big disadvantage is their high price; the oven will turn out golden, because you need quite a lot of solution. For comparison: for 100 bricks you need about 2-3 buckets of the mixture. The exact quantity depends on the thickness of the seams and the density of the rows. Each master has his own style of masonry and, accordingly, the consumption of mortar.

If you recalculate factory mixtures to the actual scale of construction, then thrifty owners will not be pleased with the price. Therefore, you can take a closer look at budget masonry mortars that you can make yourself. It is also possible to prepare clay for ovens with your own hands; the composition of the solution will not be affected.

Specifications

Each subgroup of clays differs in the values ​​of porosity, mineralization of pore water, capacity of the exchange complex, volumetric and specific gravity, thermal conductivity, and so on, since these indicators directly depend on the size of the particles of the material, as well as on their chemical and mineral composition. Table of specific gravity indicators for different types of clay:

The thermal conductivity of wet raw materials ranges from 0.4 to 3.0 W/(m K), and of dry raw materials - 0.1 ÷ 0.3 W/(m K).

Clay Density

For clay, as a rule, bulk density is indicated, real, technological and conditional (it is determined in laboratory conditions). Moreover, the conditional one always significantly exceeds the real one. Density is calculated by dividing the mass of a body by the volume it occupies. In the SI system, density is measured in kg/m², and in the GHS system in g/cm³. The density of wet clay ranges from 1600 to 1820 kg/m², and the density of dry clay ranges up to 1000 kg/m³.

One of the technical indicators of a plastic material (as well as other bulk substances) is the compaction coefficient, which is determined by the ratio of the actual bulk density to the volume of normally compacted material located at a certain depth (the dependence of the density of clay on the depth of its occurrence has been experimentally proven). The density is considered normal if this ratio is equal to one; if less than 1, then the rock is not compacted enough.

What are masonry mortars?

The composition of the mixtures is not complicated: one or two components and water. Binding elements - clay, cement, lime. The filler is sand, which can be silicate or fireclay. It is important to take water that does not contain impurities or any technical additives. Water from a tap, well or open reservoir is suitable. But the ideal liquid for the solution is considered to be rain or melt water.

Porosity, gas conductivity, and thermal conductivity qualities of solutions vary. They are united by ease of application, good ductility and high strength after the solution hardens. Each type of solution must meet its declared properties.

Furnace masters classify solutions into the following categories:

• Fatty, with good plasticity, but susceptible to cracking after hardening.
• Normal - having average ductility and strength, with their help they create reliable masonry. This kind of clay should be sought for construction work.
• Skinny - fragile and low-plasticity, not durable, crumble after drying. Such clay is not suitable for the stove; it will immediately damage it the first time it is lit. It can only be used when brought to the desired condition in combination with other plastic components.

When the mixture contains one binder component (cement, clay), the solution is classified as simple. The ratio of components is designated as follows: 1:1, 1:2, 1:3. These designations help you understand what proportions are used in solutions. The first number indicates the binder component, the second the filler. When the solution is complex, consisting of two binder components (cement-lime mixture), the designation is as follows: 1: 2: 8. The first number is the most effective binder. Stove makers use mixtures that are normal in plasticity and strength. Fatty solutions are brought to the desired condition by adding sand; thin solutions are mixed with lime or clay.

If we exclude the reinforced concrete mortar used in the foundation, the following types of mortars are used when constructing the furnace:

1. Calcareous . Used for brick plinths and chimney ducts. That is, it can be used in the construction of parts where there will be no heating of more than 450-500 degrees above zero. The seams with this solution will be strong, but fire resistance will suffer. It cannot be used to construct a chimney, since this part of the structure is exposed to aggressive atmospheric influences. Lime mortar cannot be called wear-resistant.
2. Cement-lime . They are used in the construction of foundations. It is not heat resistant and is not suitable for chimneys. Withstands temperatures no higher than 250 degrees above zero.
3. Cement-chamotte . They are made of cement and heat-resistant fireclay sand and water. Used to build a firebox. Such a composition will easily withstand temperature loads of 1300 degrees and above and will not collapse. Such a seam will not let smoke through, but condensation can escape through it. Heat resistance, fire resistance, and ease of use are features of cement-fireclay mortars. But it comes out at a rather expensive price. Therefore, when building stoves for baths, they often make do with an analogue, where cement is replaced with clay.
4. Clay-fireclay . Such solutions are also used when laying the combustion chamber, as they have fire-resistant properties. It turns out much cheaper than the previous option. Clay is often a free element.
5. Clay . They are used to construct the main structure of the stove, where heat is accumulated and transferred to the heated room. On the heat resistance scale, such solutions are in the middle position. The clay mixture will withstand temperatures of 1100 degrees. When the water evaporates, the mixture becomes solid, but under the influence of the liquid it will again become plastic. A very convenient property that allows you to sort out the stove for repair or restoration. To build a chimney, clay mortar for the stove can be used, but the upper part of the pipe cannot be laid with it, it will get wet.

This is the cheapest solution; it is used to lay the main part of the structure. The seemingly low cost of a ready-made, factory-produced clay mixture will actually add up to a considerable amount, since a lot of the mixture will be needed. But the components can be obtained for free. They are under your feet. Therefore, it makes sense to find out how to make clay mortar for laying a stove with your own hands; it doesn’t require much effort. Clay will also be needed when you need to make a mixture for laying the firebox.

Results

1. For furnace structures, you need a solution that can withstand temperatures of at least 1100–1200 C.
2. To build the furnace itself, solutions are prepared from red clay. For the combustion chamber and chimney you need an option made of fireclay and sand. There is no difference between the use of quartz sand and ordinary river sand.
3. The ratio of components in the material depends on the indicators of the components. Fat clay is mixed with 5 parts of sand, lean clay with 2.
4. During production, verification tests are performed. If the solution is sticky, add sand; if it separates, add greasy clay.
5. Other options for masonry - cement, lime-sand, are suitable only for the foundation or the outer part of the chimney.

What tools will you need?

Before you start preparing solutions, you need to select a tool:

• a kneading oar (a specially hewn board with a handle);
• shovel;
• container for mixing the solution (a wooden trough or barrel, or a metal container);
• 5-6 buckets;
• trowel, which determines plasticity;
• a pair of metal sieves with 3x1.5 mm cells;

After the tool is prepared, you will need to prepare the components for the solution.

Preparing bricks for the construction of an outdoor wood-burning stove

Bricks are available in full and incomplete sizes. When preparing an incomplete brick for the construction of a fireplace, measure the required distance on its spoon (long) side. Then, use the blade of a pick to mark the line and, having previously prepared a shallow groove along the chipping line, with a sharp blow, split the brick for the wood-burning stove into the necessary structural parts.

If you need to split a brick for an outdoor stove lengthwise and not across, then when performing the above steps, the groove along the chipping line should be hollowed out deeper, since it is more difficult to split along the brick, often forming crumbs and uneven parts.

To make it easier to prepare the brick, it is recommended to make notches on the handle of the pick that will correspond to the sizes of ½ part, 1/4 part, etc. In this case, you will not need to constantly use a tape measure.

The same pick is useful for trimming bricks. It must be trimmed with light blows, remembering that the softer the brick, the flatter the direction of impact should be.

How to get clay

To get by on a budget, you should first stock up on clay and sand. With their help, they not only make solutions, but also regulate plasticity. When the furnace part is laid out, clay will be needed. What is she? This is a material created by nature itself, very plastic when saturated with water. Varies in fat content. If it contains more than 40 percent sand, it is skinny. It is not suitable for laying stoves in its pure form, since the seams will be fragile. The normal sand ratio is 37-38 percent. When there are fewer of them, the clay is normalized by mixing regular or fireclay sand.

Where can I get clay for laying a stove? There are several methods:

1. Unfired factory raw brick is soaked by dipping it in a container of water. The softened mass is filtered using a fine mesh sieve. Then sand is mixed in. The desired consistency is obtained by adding the required amount of water.
2. Sometimes local clay is sold very inexpensively by local residents. But this is very dirty clay, it will have to be cleaned and expressed several times.
3. You can extract clay yourself. Its deposits are found almost everywhere. If you go 4-5 meters deep, you can dig it up in your own garden. But it’s even better to look for clay on river banks, in ravines and other places where the soil has been washed away. In the section of banks and ravines, clay is usually visible in a single layer. Approximately 5 meters are measured from the surface and a piece of rock is broken off for testing. If you crush a lump, it should crumple like plasticine and not stick to your hand. You can try rolling it into five-centimeter flagella up to 5 mm thick. If they bend in an arc and do not break, then it looks like clay. If not, then you can look in another similar place.

On a note. You need to know that colors may vary. It depends on mineral inclusions. And this does not affect the quality of the clay. It is believed that the best clay is white, that is, kaolin. It is used to prepare a clay mixture when laying the firebox.

Gray, bluish-gray and greenish-gray breeds are more common. But there is clay in brown-chocolate and earthy shades. This indicates that the composition contains iron oxides, which give this color.

Experienced stove masonry masters not only know how to prepare clay for laying a stove, but also determine its suitability immediately, without laboratory testing. But novice craftsmen must test the clay experimentally. To do this, you need to take 5 measurements of clay, half a kilo each (or a kilogram).

Heat-resistant, heat-resistant, fire-resistant - what's the difference?

Beginner stove makers often experience some difficulties associated with a correct understanding of terminology. Regarding mortars for stove masonry, the greatest confusion arises with the concepts of heat resistance, heat resistance and fire resistance of the material. These parameters are fundamental in the furnace business, so we will now try to clarify their meaning and clarify the understanding of this issue.

Heat-resistant is a material that can withstand heating to high temperatures. At the same time, during its subsequent cooling, the structure and chemical composition are preserved and no irreversible changes in shape occur. In addition, heat-resistant materials in a heated state are still able to withstand the original specified physical overloads without the risk of possible destruction.

The main property of heat-resistant materials is resistance to temperature, provided that the original mechanical properties are maintained. Heat-resistant substances and compounds have an order of magnitude lower thermal expansion index than heat-resistant ones. Such materials are used in the construction of not only furnaces, but also mechanical devices operating in extreme temperature conditions, while being subjected to powerful dynamic effects.

Finally, fire-resistant materials are heat-resistant or heat-resistant compounds that, among other things, calmly withstand the action of chemically active (often aggressive) substances contained in gaseous substances. Specifically in the case of stove masonry, this may be smoke or products of thermal decomposition of fuel.

All solutions and materials used in the construction of furnaces must be heat-resistant and fire-resistant. This requirement applies even to those elements that, during normal operation of the stove, do not heat up by more than four hundred degrees. No standard building mixture meets these parameters.

How to find sand

Sand is sold packaged or in bulk, already sorted into fractions. But it is possible to obtain it yourself and use it for stove mortar. So, white quartz sand is perfect for laying any areas of the stove; yellow sand cannot be used for the firebox.

On a note. If you decide to buy sand, then it is better to take the mountain or lake version; such a building material is best suited for constructing a furnace and will bind the components of the solution well.

It is recommended to make the seams of the stove masonry about 2-3 mm. Therefore, sand is suitable with a fraction no larger than 1.6-1.8 mm. Craftsmen purchase sand of different grains. It is believed that it grips better.

Where can you dig up sand yourself? In abandoned quarries, ravines, river shallows, along steep river banks. The purest sand is not at a depth of one meter or one and a half meters. Otherwise, you will have to wash it for a long time.

If the sand has foreign inclusions, it needs to be cleaned. To do this, sand is poured into a trough and filled with ordinary water. After this, the mixture is thoroughly shaken. The turbidity and dirt that floats out are drained. And so on until the water is clear. For sifting, take a metal construction sieve with cells of 1x1.5 mm.

Methods for improving loamy soil

Plants on heavy clay soil develop poorly, often get sick, or die from lack of nutrition. To create the necessary conditions for growing garden and vegetable crops, you need to improve the soil - make it looser, more airy and moisture-permeable.

By changing the listed qualities, you will also change the composition of the soil, since it will begin to warm up faster and will quickly become populated with various microorganisms. Let's look at methods that will help improve the composition of loamy soil.

Adding coarse river sand

Sand of fraction 2-4 mm is considered coarse-grained. It must be added regularly and in fairly large quantities (1 bucket of sand per 1 sq. m.).

Since it is necessary to “dilute” clay soil not only on the surface. The area to be improved must be periodically dug up so that the sand gradually penetrates into the deeper layers of the soil, which will also increase its aeration and warming. In virgin lands, clay soil is dug up 3-4 times per season.

In the future, this must be done every year, otherwise the sand will begin to exfoliate on the surface, and moisture will leave through it, but not penetrate deeper. With each year of mulching loamy soil with sand and surface loosening, the fertile layer of soil will increase.

Application of organic fertilizers

Living microorganisms will increase soil fertility. Therefore, organic matter is added to the mulched and dug clay soil. It is best to do this in late autumn, but it can also be done in early spring, when the snow has just melted and the soil becomes available for digging.

Suitable for beautification:

• large peat;
• manure;
• compost.

Peat is applied once every 4 years. It can be of different acidity, which will affect soil performance. And this must be taken into account when choosing peat - by studying the current soil pH and their compatibility with the plants that will be planted on it.

If the crops you grow love acidic soil, it is better not to add manure at all, as it has an alkalizing effect. Then use plant-based compost.

If you apply manure, choose horse or sheep manure. It is dug up, mixed with the top layer of soil. This should be done in the fall so as not to burn the roots of the plants in the spring.

You need to dig up fertilized soil regularly. This will ensure the looseness of the soil and the uniform distribution of microorganisms in it. You can simultaneously add sand and organic matter to improve clay soil.

Planting green manure

Growing green manure on loamy acidic soil will allow it to be structured, fertilized and will have a beneficial effect on the development of beneficial microflora. The following crops are suitable for sowing on loam:

• rye;
• phacelia;
• sweet clover;
• lupine;
• alfalfa;
• white mustard.

These green manures will improve the health of the soil and help deoxidize it a little. Also, corn stalks and leaves are used to refine loams. The coarse fibers of this plant take a long time to decompose in the soil and have a positive effect on its breathability and looseness.

How to determine the plasticity of clay

To understand how to properly dilute clay for laying a stove, clay samples must be placed in various containers. Add water gradually to obtain a plastic solution that does not stick to your hands, resembling well-kneaded dough. Each sample is marked with a serial number.

Then proceed as follows:

• the first sample is left in its original form;
• 10 percent sand is added to the second sample;
• for the third sample - 25 percent;
• by the fourth - 75 percent;
• to the fifth - the same amount as the volume of clay.

Sand is introduced gradually, in portions, stirring after each addition. When a lot of sand is added, you need to increase the volume of water.

Before soaking clay for laying a stove, you need to determine its quality. As samples, 2-3 balls with a diameter of 50 mm are made from each sample, as well as cakes 20-30 mm thick. Then they should be dried in a place where there is no draft. After ten days have passed, the cakes and balls need to be checked to understand where the best composition is. To do this, each ball is dropped from a meter height onto the floor. It should not break or crumble when compressed. Dried samples should not have large cracks. For the experiments to be successful, it is necessary to prepare several balls of each type of clay to be sure.

There are two more ways. First, each sample is rolled into balls 50 mm in diameter. They are placed under a press, the role of which is performed by two planks. If, after compression, the ball shrinks twice and small cracks appear, the clay is plastic. If shrinkage occurs only by a third of the diameter, cracks will be noticeable; this is clay with medium plasticity. Skinny clay will shrink only one quarter or less, or it will simply crumble.

The next method is with flagella up to 20 mm thick and 250 mm long. They need to be stretched one by one and bent around a wooden rolling pin or a shovel handle (50 mm in diameter). Skinny clay will not withstand the test; the flagellum will immediately break without stretching. With an average degree of plasticity, the flagellum will begin to tear, and the stretching segment will become 20 percent less in thickness. The folds of the “sausage” will crack. The plastic clay will not break off, but will smoothly bend around the handle.

Furnace mortars are made from clay, which has average plasticity. It is not difficult to determine the amount of solution required; its volume is a tenth of the volume of the oven.

Where can I get organic matter for garden beds?

What can you take as organic matter to improve the mechanical composition of the soil? Yes, whatever you have on hand. This could be tree bark left over from construction, or shavings or pine needles. If there is a coniferous forest nearby, then go and rake them as much as necessary, and if there is a swamp nearby, then use sphagnum moss.

You can use leaves if there is a deciduous forest nearby; birch leaves are especially good, as well as moss, which have bactericidal properties. In general, you can use any leaves except oak leaves (due to the high content of tannins in them, which inhibit plant growth).

Sawdust, preferably rotted, can be added to the soil. It is possible that they are not rotted, but in this case, as when adding fresh shavings or sphagnum moss, it is necessary to pre-soak these shavings and sawdust with water and urea (10 tablespoons of urea per 10 liters of water) or urine diluted with water 1:2.

The fact is that fresh shavings and sawdust contain a lot of carbon, which is rich food for soil microorganisms, and they will begin to develop rapidly. But in addition to carbon, these microorganisms also need nitrogen, of which there is little in fresh sawdust and shavings, so the microorganisms will begin to absorb nitrogen from the environment, which will lead to nitrogen starvation of plants in this soil.

The best organic matter is, of course, leaf humus, rotted compost and rotted manure, as well as sawdust and shavings left after growing oyster mushrooms on them.

How to prepare a clay mixture for laying a stove

Before soaking clay for the oven, you need to prepare convenient containers. This could be a barrel or a trough. The clay is loaded into a container and filled with water for 2-3 days. If during this period it does not completely soften, then you need to leave it for another day.

How to make clay for laying a stove so that it meets the standards and requirements? The softened clay must be mixed very well. The result should be a mass similar in structure to thick sour cream. If necessary, add water. Then the creamy mixture needs to be strained. The ratio of sand and clay is determined through experiments.

Clay mortar for laying a stove is made as follows. Pour the components into the container gradually, distributing them in layers. Then you need to mix everything thoroughly, adding water as needed. Do this until the solution becomes a homogeneous loose mass. If you stick a shovel into such a mixture, the solution will slowly slide, but not spread. Such a clay batch is stored by covering the top with roofing felt, polyethylene or plywood. The shelf life is unlimited, you just need to add water when needed.

There is another way, but it requires physical strength. There is no need to sift anything. Sand in the required quantity is laid out in ridges on a wooden board. You will need a platform of approximately 1.5x1.5 meters. The width of the ridges is about 40 cm, the height is no more than 25 cm. A depression is made exactly in the middle of the ridge, which is filled with softened clay. The raw materials are shoveled, and sand from the edges is poured into the clay until everything becomes a homogeneous substance.

After this, a ridge is formed again, which is cut with force with the edge of a wooden oar. Use frequent blows to break up all the lumps. Add water if necessary. This method is not used often. This folk method is used to prepare small portions of the solution.

Sand that can be counted: what kind of soil is considered sandy, its features

Sand is a natural component of any soil. Another thing is its percentage. Sandy soil is considered to be soil that is 90% or more sand.

You can check the “sandiness” visually and by touch by taking a handful of earth and moistening it generously. The worse it sticks together, the higher the sand content.

Sandy soil on the site is not a death sentence

Sand is mainly quartz, a mineral that is considered unsuitable for plant nutrition (unlike, for example, clay, a storehouse of useful substances for the growth and development of living organisms).

Sandy soil is not only dry, it does not retain water, but lets it into the deeper layers of the earth, where plant roots can no longer reach. Most plantings (unless, of course, they are desert plants like cactus or saxaul) will constantly experience a lack of water and wither.

Sand heats up quickly and strongly in the sun, and at night it cools down with the same speed and force. The roots of most plants are uncomfortable in such an environment, to the point of getting burned during the day and hypothermia in the dark.

These features of sandy soil do not at all contribute to the easy cultivation of crops common in central Russia, which should produce a rich and tasty harvest, for example, potatoes or beets. Sandy soil is considered unsuitable for all vegetables.

If you don’t set yourself the task of “getting the most out of” your sandy plot, then just work with what you have. You can also grow ornamental plants on it - to please the eye, create comfort, and some medicinal plants - for beauty and health, and even edible crops.

Many beautiful and useful crops can be grown on sandy soil.

What plants can be planted in sandy soil?

• Shrubs (for example, sea buckthorn, hawthorn, barberry, juniper).
• Trees (birch, pine needles, maple).
• Annual and perennial flowers (marigolds, asters, carnations, cornflowers).
• All legumes (beans, peas).

They will feel good in sandy soil, but most of the above plants will still not “plant and forget”. Yes, they are unpretentious, but they also need care: regular abundant watering, fertilization, protection from pests.

How to make lime mixture

Using lime mortar, they lay the foundation of the stove and the chimney pipe on the roof. It should be taken into account that when slaked, lime increases 3-5 times. Therefore, take the appropriate container.

Lime is well filled with water. Mix the solution and break the stones until the mixture resembles thick sour cream. Gradually add sand until pieces of the mixture begin to stick to the shovel. This solution can be stored for a long time, adding water as necessary.

This is a rather difficult procedure; you can buy a ready-made lime mixture. As a rule, you won’t need much lime when laying a stove. This material behaves very well when working; there are no special problems with preparing lime-based solutions.

Ingredient Requirements

The question of how to properly prepare a mortar for bricklaying requires not only the precise addition of components, but also the correct selection of materials according to their characteristics. This is mainly about cleanliness.

The sand should have minimal organic and mud inclusions. The cleaner the better, the higher the technical characteristics of the solution. The same goes for water. But here, special attention is usually paid to the hardness of the latter, and its composition in terms of the quantitative content of salts. Therefore, for laying bricks they try to use tap water, possibly from wells and wells.

How to prepare a mixture for laying the firebox

How to make fireproof mortar for a stove so that the stove lasts a long time? To lay the firebox, use plastic white clay, which can be yellowish or gray. The role of filler is performed by fireclay sand. It is made from broken fireclay bricks, which are then crushed by crushing. It brings the solution to a higher level of resistance to high temperatures. This sand is used instead of the usual sand to prepare solutions intended for combustion chambers, which are laid out of fireclay bricks.

To reduce the cost, you can take fireclay sand mixed with ordinary quartz sand in equal proportions. The mixture will still retain its fireproof properties.

Plastic clay does not need additional testing. It is kneaded in clean, soft water. To facilitate the kneading procedure, construction mixers are used.

If you know what solution to lay the stove on and how to get cheap building material, you can save a lot when building a sauna stove.

Types of clay and their effect on soil fertility

Clay in its pure natural form is dead soil in which beneficial microorganisms cannot survive and plant roots cannot breathe, feed and develop. This is due to its air and water resistance and very poor heating.

Depending on the composition of other components in the soil, clay can be a fertilizer for plants, and it can be used to create favorable conditions for soil fertility. Let's consider the main types of clays found in the areas and their effect on the growth and development of garden crops.

Red clay

The crimson color is given to it by the content of iron and copper dioxides. This type of clay is the most widespread throughout Russia. The presence of this mineral on the site in the required proportions is the key to the good development of your plants.

The advantages of this type of clay soil:

• rich composition of nutrients;
• good moisture retention on the surface;
• no need to frequently fertilize the soil.

If the soil is loamy with a high clay content, then it can be made suitable for gardening by saturating it with humus and black soil. Red clay can be used to increase fertility and avoid the problem of depletion and dryness of sandy soils.

Blue-green or blue clay

Soil with such clay is very difficult to improve. And this process will be too expensive. The entire layer of soil will have to be removed, replaced with fertile soil and ensure good drainage over the entire surface. Otherwise, nothing will grow on the loamy blue-green soil.

It is better not to buy a plot if you find out that the soil on it has this composition. It is not recommended to specifically fertilize sandy soil with such clay. For these purposes, it is better to use red clay or kaolin.

White clay or kaolin

The use of such clay is common for cosmetic and medicinal purposes. But due to its rich mineral composition, it can also be used as a fertilizer for the site. Kaolin is used when there is a lack of silicon in the soil.

If your site is located on clay soil, this is not a reason to give up. You can increase fertility without much expense, organize your garden and vegetable garden, and achieve high yields. And if you have sandy soil on which nothing wants to grow, then adding clay to the composition will help make it more suitable for farming.