We choose which foundation is better for a bathhouse made of logs or timber. How not to make a mistake with your choice, how to adapt to the characteristics of the soil?

The foundation is the basis of the building. It depends on it, in particular, how long the construction will last. Competent preparation for construction should begin with ground research on the site. It is based on their results that a decision is made on choosing a suitable foundation. However, not only the soil influences this choice, but also the material of the walls, which determines the load on the foundation.

So, bathhouses made of foam blocks or frames do not need a solid foundation, because they have light walls, which cannot be said about a bathhouse made of timber or logs, which are heavier and therefore require a stronger foundation.

Selection and technology of building a foundation for a bathhouse.

A modern bathhouse is a lightweight structure made of logs or timber that can stand on any type of foundation. When choosing a foundation, you need to take into account the characteristics of the soil on the site and economic feasibility - extremely reliable foundations made of a monolithic slab or reinforced concrete piles for a small bathhouse with an area of ​​up to 6x6 m will simply be unnecessary.

What is the best foundation for a bathhouse? Forum.
Bathhouse on a strip foundation.

In this article we will look at the optimal types of foundations for a bathhouse, give recommendations on their calculation and DIY technology. Strip, columnar, screw and slab foundations, as well as cheap tire foundations, will be examined in detail.

Which one is better to choose?

The choice of base depends on the type of soil, as well as the design of the room:

• 
  if you need a basement and the soil is quite dense, then this is only a strip base;

• for highly heaving soils or large slopes, a pile subtype is recommended;
• if the soil is not heaving, quite dense, but the groundwater is too high or there is a large amount of melted snow in the spring, then you should make a columnar one (pile is possible, but it will be more expensive);
• a monolithic foundation should be done only as a last resort, if none of the previous options are suitable, since this type is the heaviest and most expensive.

The simplest options that you can do with your own hands are a shallow strip or columnar foundation.

Choosing a foundation for a bathhouse.

When choosing which foundation is best for a bathhouse, you need to consider three factors:

• weight and size characteristics of the structure;
• geological conditions on the site - presence of a slope, type of soil and its bearing capacity, freezing depth and groundwater level;
• budget allocated for construction.

In most cases, the best option would be a strip foundation for a bathhouse . The different depths of the strip foundation allow you to build in any soil conditions - on stable soil it is rational to construct a shallow strip (deepened by 30-80 cm), in heaving soil - deep strips (the support base is 20-30 cm below the depth of soil freezing).

However, the arrangement of a buried foundation is accompanied by serious costs for materials, and in order to save money, it is better to give preference to screw or columnar foundations.

The screw foundation for a log bathhouse consists of steel piles tied with a grillage, the blades of which open the surface layer of soil and rest on solid deep soil. The advantages of this option are low cost, quick installation time (installing a foundation for a bathhouse takes 2-3 days) and reliability.

What is the best foundation for a bathhouse?

Shallow strip foundation for a bathhouse.

A good analogue for the construction of light buildings (log house, frame panels - area from 3x3 to 6x6 m) is a bathhouse on a columnar foundation. To install a log bathhouse on poles, the soil on the site must not be prone to horizontal shifts, otherwise there is a high risk of the supports overturning. The pillars can be monolithic (concreted asbestos pipes) or prefabricated (from FBS blocks).

In complex soils - mobile, heaving and low-density - a foundation slab is needed. This is a monolithic structure made of reinforced concrete 30-50 cm thick, the dimensions of which correspond to the area of ​​the building. The slab is a reliable and durable foundation for a frame bathhouse or log house, but its cost is higher than other analogues.

A simple foundation for a bathhouse, suitable for light frame buildings measuring 3x3 and 3x4 m - a base made of car tires. It is possible to erect a building on such a foundation in stable soil that is not prone to heaving. A bathhouse without a foundation can only be built on rocky soils.

Collection of characteristics and calculation of the foundation.

Before building a foundation for a bathhouse with your own hands, you need to calculate the foundation and find out whether it will withstand the building in specific soil conditions. You need to determine the type of soil on the site (sandy, clayey, sandy loam) and, using standard tables, find out the value of its resistance per 1 cm2.

Next, you need to calculate the loads that will be transmitted by the foundation to the soil. Load calculations are performed using the following algorithm:

1. Calculation of the mass of a building - the weight of the roof, floors and walls is separately calculated and summed up by multiplying their area by the specific weight of the building material (tabular data).
2. Calculation of snow loads - multiply the roof area by the weight of m 2 of snow cover in your region.
3. Calculation of operational loads (furniture, stove, wall cladding) - multiply the area of ​​the basement floor by the average load of 100 kg.
4. Calculation of total loads - we summarize the obtained data and add a safety margin by multiplying the amount by 1.2.

It remains to determine the supporting area of ​​the foundation, multiplying its perimeter by its width, and calculate the load per 1 cm 2 of soil.

For example: the standard width of the tape for log walls is 30 cm, for a bathhouse with an area of ​​6 × 6 m (perimeter 24 m), its supporting area will be - 240 * 30 = 7200 cm 2. for a 3 × 3 building - 3600 cm 2. for 3x4 bath - 4200 cm 2. and so on. Now you need to divide the total loads by the supporting area and compare the resulting value with the resistance of 1 cm 2 of soil; if the result exceeds the bearing capacity, you will need to increase the area where the foundation rests on the ground by adding the width of the tape or the diameter of the pillars.

Popular solutions for how to correct the shortcomings of highly heaving soil?

You should not refuse to build on a site where the soil is very heaving. There are five ways to offset this lack of land.

1st method

It is the most expensive, but also the most reliable. To implement it, you will have to select heaving soil that holds water from the pit, and pour gravelly sand in its place. The depth of the pit should be deeper than the freezing level of the soil.

2nd method

You can simply lay the base of the foundation of the selected type below the soil freezing depth . True, the lateral heaving force will remain, but to neutralize it, the soil around the pit is either replaced or insulated. This method is only suitable for heavy buildings, in our case a large bathhouse made of heavy logs, but not of light timber.

3rd method

The soil can simply be insulated . To do this, a layer of insulation is laid around the foundation with a width equal to the depth of soil freezing (for example, if the ground freezes to a depth of 1.5 m, then we lay insulation 1.5 m wide). The foundation itself can also be insulated.

4th method

Heaving will decrease if there is less water in the soil, which means it needs to be drained away . To do this, drainage is made along the entire perimeter of the foundation - a half-meter wide ditch, deep to the base of the foundation. A perforated pipe is placed inside, which is additionally wrapped in filter fabric. When laying the pipe, a slight slope is maintained, along which water will flow into the drainage well.

As you can see, among the measures to combat soil heaving there is also a way to combat high groundwater - drainage . In addition to drainage, care should also be taken to drain melt and rainwater through trays or grooves away from the bathhouse.

Useful video

But this video talks about how you can do without drainage with a shallow foundation and solve the problems of frost heaving (not high groundwater!) in cheaper ways:

Do-it-yourself foundation construction technology.

When considering the question of how to make a foundation for a bathhouse, we focus on the fact that the floor slab of the bathhouse must be equipped with a drain, which is installed at the stage of pouring the foundation.

In the wall of the strip foundation it is necessary to provide a hole for the drainage pipe, and the floor of the bathhouse itself - a concrete screed or a joist floor, should be made with a slope towards the central part, in which a drain hole covered with a metal mesh is placed. The water is discharged through a pipe into a storage well located outside the bathhouse at a distance of 2-3 meters.

Strip foundation.

A shallow strip foundation is the optimal solution for building a log bathhouse with an area of ​​4×6 to 6×6 m. The supporting part of the MLF is placed at a depth of 30-50 cm, and 20-30 cm of strip is also formed above the ground level, which is used as a base.

Let's look at how to properly pour the foundation for a bathhouse:

What is the best foundation for a bathhouse on loam?

Strip foundation diagram.

1. The foundation is marked - its design contours are transferred to the site using reinforcement pegs and twine.
2. Using shovels, a trench is dug to the depth of the tape plus 20 cm under the compacting bedding;
3. A layer of sand 10 cm thick is formed at the bottom of the trench, and on top of it is a layer of crushed stone of similar thickness. The bedding is carefully compacted by compaction.
4. Outside the trench, formwork is installed from boards 1-2 cm thick, which will form the ground part of the tape. The structure is strengthened with stakes and spacers. The trench and formwork walls are covered with waterproofing material.
5. The foundation is reinforced with a double-circuit frame made of reinforcement with a diameter of 12-16 mm. The upper and lower belts of the foundation are connected by vertical jumpers in increments of 40 cm. Proper reinforcement of the corners of the tape - the frame should not be connected by a cross joint, but by rods curved at right angles.
6. After the reinforcement is completed and the assembled frame is installed in the formwork, the shallow foundation is concreted with concrete grade M200-M300.

The formwork is dismantled 2 weeks after pouring, after which the floor can be laid out and the walls of the log house can be raised. The floor will need to be insulated to prevent heat loss from the bath through the ceiling. If you are making a joist floor, insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam or EPS) is laid between the joists and covered with facing boards.

Waterproofing the insulation is important - it needs to be covered on both sides with a PVC membrane that prevents the material from rotting under the influence of high air humidity. Waterproofing is also laid along the upper contour of the tape on which the basement of the bathhouse is placed.

Construction of a strip foundation (video).

Columnar foundation.

It is rational to make a columnar foundation for a bathhouse with your own hands from concreted asbestos pipes, deepened below the freezing level of the soil - in this case, the log house will be protected from heaving. The pillars are tied with a grillage made of timber or channel.

Let's look at how to pour a foundation for a bathhouse:

1. The contours of the foundation are marked on the site and the installation points of the supports are indicated.
2. Using hand-held drilling tools, wells are developed for the installation of pillars (the optimal diameter of asbestos pipes is 25-30 cm, the depth of the foundation is 2 m).
3. The pipes are installed in the well, they are reinforced with 4 reinforcement bars of 10th diameter (the rods are stuck into the ground).
4. M300 concrete is poured into the pipes, until the mixture has hardened, a steel pin (a rod 40-50 cm long with a threaded thread) is inserted into the central part of the column to secure the grillage. The stud should protrude to the thickness of the grillage and penetrate into the concrete by at least 20 cm.
5. The post is tied with a grillage made of timber with a cross-section of 15×20 cm. The beam is cut to size, groove joints are cut out in the joining parts, after which the strapping is laid on the supports. At the points of connection with the posts, a through hole is drilled in the timber for the pin and a seat for the fixing nut (using a feather drill).

What is the best foundation for a bathhouse with your own hands?
Foundation made of tires for a bathhouse.

Before laying the grillage, the pillars must be waterproofed - roofing material or glass insulation is placed on their end part under the timber.

Tire foundation.

The technology for arranging a budget foundation made of tires for a small log house or a light frame bathhouse is extremely simple to implement—neither reinforcement nor waterproofing is required. To work, you need 10-15 tires from a passenger car ( diameter 60-70 cm ).

The distribution of tires is as follows - one at a time in the corners of the log house and evenly, in increments of 1 m, along the perimeter of its walls. Initially, you need to make a pit for the entire area of ​​the bathhouse with a depth of 15-20 cm, fill it with crushed stone, level it and compact the bedding tightly.

Next, mark the contours of the log house and use pegs to indicate the placement of the tires. Having centered the tires on the pegs, cover their bottom with geotextile and fill with crushed stone, not reaching 5 cm to the top. The crushed stone is compacted and the remaining space is filled with cement-sand mortar.

To prevent the tires from being destroyed during operation due to the scorching sun, they need to be covered with glass insulation, after which you can begin laying the bottom frame timber and raising the walls.

From the terrain of the site

When constructing on flat areas, the type of foundation can be any; in other cases, the method of laying it depends on the angle of inclination.

In areas with a slope of no more than 20 cm on one side of the bathhouse, it is advisable to lay prefabricated or monolithic tapes - after simply leveling the bottom or local deepening of the trench. According to the technology, such tapes must be protected from precipitation and ground moisture using drainage pipes and water collection and drainage systems. The structures are heavily reinforced, and the soil for backfilling, if necessary, is changed to a more dense and frost-free one.

For medium and high slopes, the lowest point of the site is taken as the base level. The costs of excavation work and pouring a solid monolithic tape in such cases are too high; the problem is solved in two ways:

The last option is considered the only possible one if it is necessary to build a timber bathhouse on uneven areas with weak soils.

If necessary, piles are used as additional supports and combined with strip or stepped structures. In particular, such a need arises with a complex configuration and large weight of the bath.

But in most cases, the problem of an uneven area is solved by laying ordinary piles resting on dense layers and tied with a channel or reinforced concrete grillage.

What kind of foundation should be built for a bathhouse?

• Why take into account the type of soil on the site?
• Types of foundations for a bathhouse Columnar brick foundation
• Screw foundation for a bathhouse
• Floating foundation

To make the bathhouse strong and reliable, special attention should be paid to the base. Today, it is possible to use various foundations, but the appropriate one must be selected taking into account the type of soil and other construction conditions. Shallow strip foundations, pile foundations and support foundations are suitable as a foundation for a bathhouse. The technology for building foundations is not so complicated; the foundation can be built independently, without involving expensive construction teams.

What is the best foundation for a bathhouse?

Foundation design diagram.

Insulation of the base of the bath

There is debate online about how to mark the foundation. It is clear that polystyrene foam can be used as insulation. This is not an expensive material; installation occurs in sheets. Dowels can be used as fastening.

Other options for insulation:

— waterproofing membrane;

- foam glass.

The waterproofing membrane is used for vertical installation. In the case of a bathhouse, you can use a simple option without powders. Craftsmen note that the material provides mechanical protection for waterproofing.

When installing, there are subtleties in cutting sheets. It is important to start with the long edge so that there are no folds. Among other things, the waterproofing membrane ensures constant ventilation of the wall. Some people are interested in using the material together with a lining.

The studded side should be on top. The maximum depth of formation is 4 meters. Professional builders understand that most errors occur when installing horizontally. The concrete surface is treated with a primer before use.

Thus providing a barrier. It plays an important role in ultraviolet radiation. Additionally important is protection against the evaporation of radon and methane gases. When choosing materials, builders give preference to the German manufacturer, since the packaging claims a high class.

When it's needed

Beginners consider how to make a foundation. The question specifically about insulation remains relevant. It must be installed if minimum temperatures drop to -10 degrees. The type of construction is also taken into account. For example, the basis for a bath has been calculated and the columnar option has been selected. It will definitely have to be insulated, since the structure is blown from below.

Why take into account the type of soil on the site?

Before starting work, it is necessary to conduct a soil study. This will help to correctly determine what type of base is suitable and what loads it can withstand. The soil on the site should not sag or experience maximum heaving.

The soil must be homogeneous, in which case there will be no deformation of the structure, subsidence, or uneven shrinkage.

What is the best foundation for a bathhouse?

Diagram of a pile foundation.

It is not recommended to carry out construction work on peat bogs, on heavily silty soil, or on sand, since even a pile foundation will not always be able to provide the required reliability. If there is no choice, you will have to completely replace part of the soil on the site with a bed of coarse sand. This layer must be spilled with water and compacted. There may be two optimal options:

• for water-saturated soil, you need to choose a pile foundation made of metal screw piles;
• for areas with high groundwater levels, a monolithic slab foundation, often called a floating foundation, is preferable;
• for other types of soil, you can use strip, simple support, or regular slab foundations.

The depth of the foundation should not be less than 50 cm, since in winter such a structure can simply be pushed upward, and in spring and summer it will sag a little due to thawing of moisture in the soil. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to design the base in advance and determine the depth of the structure.

Soil analysis

Depending on the type of soil, different types of foundations are used, since where one is suitable, another may not be suitable. Typically, soil types are divided into 5 types:

1. Sandy loam or loam. One of the most common species in the middle zone.
   In terms of its properties, it is an average option between clay and sand, since under high pressure it sags (albeit less than sand), and can also be washed away by water (but not as much as clay). This type is denser than the subspecies with which it is compared and has average heaving (usually depends on the composition of the soil). The difficulty of installing the base depends on the amount of clay in the soil. Any type of foundation will do.
2. Sandy soil conducts water well and hardly swells when it gets cold. Under heavy loads, it sags greatly, as it compacts under pressure. It is recommended to use a pile type for it (even better than a bored one), as it compacts the earth around it. For shallow foundation types (columnar, strip), when digging, a depth of at least 70 cm is recommended.

3. 
   Clay soil is the most difficult type of soil, as it is easily washed away by water, and is also very soft, which is why it quickly sinks under weight.
   When it gets cold, this type of soil swells greatly. It uses buried foundations, often piles.

4. The rocky type of soil is the strongest of all, since it does not heave, does not erode, and does not sag under load.
   The disadvantage of this type of soil is that laying out a foundation on it is very difficult due to the complexity of the work, but it is possible to build a shallow foundation.
5. Cartilaginous soil is a type of soft soil that contains large amounts of rock debris or gravel.
   It hardly swells or shrinks under pressure, and is also difficult to erode. The disadvantage of this type is that it is difficult to make a foundation without special equipment, since it will be almost impossible to dig holes with a shovel or a hand drill. For shallow foundations, a depth of 50 cm is sufficient, which can also be considered an advantage.

On a note. You can determine the type of soil using the documentation for the site, since most often there is already the result of geological exploration.

In some cases, you can determine the soil type yourself. To do this you need:

1. take some earth and knead it in your hands;
2. add some water;
3. roll a ball and make a sausage out of it (like plasticine in childhood);
4. close the edges of the sausage.

After this, by the behavior of your product you can understand what type of soil is in the area in the upper layers:

• 
  if the ball is not rolled, then it is sandy;

• there is a ball, but the sausage is not made - sandy loam;
• if the sausage turns out, but does not bend and breaks quickly, then it is light loam;
• large cracks on a rolled sausage are medium loam, and small cracks are heavy loam;
• If the sausage turns out perfect and without cracks, this means that the soil contains a high clay content.

You can determine rocky and cartilaginous without manipulating the sausage, since when you try to dig a hole, it will immediately become clear which of these two types you have on your site.

Also, to build a foundation, it is necessary to determine the presence and height of groundwater. This information can be found in the site documentation or checked yourself:

1. dig a hole 2.5 m deep;
2. check it after 4 hours.

If the hole is filled to 1.5-2 m, then the depth is quite high, so you will have to drain it using drainage. Another indicator is the depth of soil freezing, which can be found on the Internet or relevant documentation.

Types of foundations for a bathhouse.

What is the best foundation for a bathhouse?
Diagram of pile formation stages.

Which foundation is most suitable for a bathhouse? Attention should be paid to such parameters as the soil, the material used to make the bathhouse itself, and its dimensions. A strip foundation is one of the best options for almost any low-rise building. This base is made in the form of a concrete or stone (brick) strip around the perimeter of the building. The laying of the tape is not very large, usually up to 60 cm, the upper part should protrude by 30 cm, the width of the tape is 40 cm (depending on the thickness of the wall). Often such a foundation is chosen by novice builders as the simplest and fastest option to construct.

At the first stage, it is necessary to mark along the perimeter of the tape and under the load-bearing walls, and then dig a pit. A cushion of sand and crushed stone is poured onto the bottom of the pit, it is moistened with water and compacted. Then you need to install the formwork and make an armored belt from metal rods. The tape is poured with concrete mortar, after which it must be left to dry for about 3-4 weeks. The surface of the concrete should be moistened with water for the first days and protected with a film from possible rain. After the concrete has dried, it is necessary to waterproof it with roofing felt and tie it with a wooden board.

Columnar foundation made of brick.

The columnar foundation for the bathhouse is built from brick. This is a support type of foundation, which is recommended for difficult soils, for frame and wooden baths. The technology for constructing such a foundation is as follows:

What is the best foundation for a bathhouse?

Scheme of a columnar foundation.

• first, the area for the foundation is marked, the location of the supports is determined;
• holes are dug for future supports, their cross-section must be square, not less than 38 cm. The supports should be located around the perimeter, in the corners of the building, under load-bearing walls and at the points of their connection with external ones;
• the walls of the wells are lined with roofing felt, and a cushion of sand and crushed stone is poured onto the bottom. After this, the supports are poured to the ground level, and masonry of the required height is performed on top;
• the strapping is made of wooden beams or metal beams; such a belt must be protected with two layers of roofing material.

This type of foundation is needed if the structure is small and the load on the ground is minimal.

Screw foundation for a bathhouse.

The screw foundation today is considered one of the simplest and most reliable; it can be built even on very difficult soils. Among the advantages of such a base for a bathhouse, it should be noted:

• possibility of installation on almost any type of soil, even swampy;
• strength and stability;
• quick and not very complicated installation.

The only negative would be the lack of possibility of constructing a basement floor, but even in this case, a way out of the situation can be found. To do this, a shallow trench is dug around the perimeter, then intermediate walls are laid out of brick between the individual foundation piles. When constructing the base, ventilation holes are provided in the masonry, and the entire structure is waterproofed. For masonry, you need to use red brick; silicate brick is not suitable in this case.

Floating foundation.

Which foundation to choose for a bathhouse? For a stone or brick bathhouse that will be built on water-saturated soils, it is recommended to install a concrete monolithic foundation, the so-called floating foundation. This is a rectangular slab, which is excellent for heaving, weak-bearing, heavy, bulk and other complex types of soil. The construction technology is not complicated, although the work itself is quite financially expensive.

First, you need to dig a hole with suitable dimensions for the future foundation, cover the bottom with a layer of sand and crushed stone with a height of about 60 cm. After this, the cushion layer is moistened with water and compacted. The next stage is waterproofing; special films can be used to protect the surface. Additionally, collapsible formwork is installed from regular edged boards. Before filling, you need to make reinforcement. To do this, using metal rods and knitting wire, 2 armored belts are made, the rods of which should not protrude after pouring on the sides and top.

The formwork is completely filled with concrete and then left to dry completely. To prevent cracking from occurring, it is recommended to moisten the surface of the slab with water and cover it with damp burlap and wet sawdust. This will make the drying process high-quality and correct. After the foundation has dried, which may take up to 28 days, you can begin waterproofing, that is, treat the surface with molten bitumen or cover it with 2 layers of roofing felt. Then you can start building the bathhouse itself.

What type of base is suitable?

For bath construction, 4 types of supporting structures can be used:

1. Tape. Most often it is made of reinforced concrete, but in some cases it can be built of brick or blocks.
   This type of base allows for additional insulation of the bathhouse, as well as arrangement of the basement. The advantages also include low thermal conductivity and high strength. The disadvantages include a long construction period (it takes 20-30 days to gain strength), a more complex communications system and increased costs.
2. Columnar is made of blocks or bricks, which are stacked under support points and concreted.
   A lighter type of base than tape, but it cannot be used to make a basement. The columnar type is only suitable for light buildings, but it can be done in a lowland or on a slight slope. In some cases, the pole may be made of reinforced concrete and asbestos pipe. Such a foundation will be stronger and more resistant to heaving, but will require additional costs for concrete, reinforcement, and excavation of holes.

3. 
   Monolithic foundation is used least often for building a bathhouse, since this type of foundation is used for “creeping” soils and heavy buildings.
   Due to the fact that a bathhouse made of timber does not have much weight, this type of foundation will be redundant.

   A monolithic version is made according to a principle similar to tape, but in this case it is not trenches that are filled, but a large area that will be located under the building.

   The advantage of this design is its low mobility on moving soils and its strength. Disadvantages can be considered the lack of a basement, long construction (strength building is required), as well as a large waste of resources.

4. The pile type of foundation is in some ways similar to a columnar foundation, since it also does not have a monolithic foundation, but pillars are used for support.
   They are screwed or driven into the ground. The positive qualities of such a foundation are the simplicity and speed of installation, the possibility of use on soils in which hard layers begin at a depth of 3-4 meters, as well as resistance to heaving. In some cases, bored piles are used, which compact the soil underneath and around the post during installation. The disadvantage of a pile foundation is that it is more expensive than a shallow columnar foundation, and special equipment is required for installation to a depth of more than 2 m.

How to make a pile foundation?

For loose soils, a regular strip or columnar one is no longer suitable, so a pile one must be installed. It will stand firmly and reliably even on swampy soil, distributing all the loads from the structure. The technology for constructing such a foundation is extremely simple; you only need to drive piles into the ground, and then connect them on top with a special belt in the form of beams, which serves as the foundation for the bathhouse.

To install a pile foundation for a bathhouse, you must first calculate all the dimensions. To do this, the pitch between the piles is determined and their total number is calculated. The distance between the support pillars should be between 1.4-2.6 m, each pillar should have a cross-section of 38 cm. The supports should be located in the corners of the building, along the perimeter, under the load-bearing walls. For auxiliary pillars, you can take a slightly smaller cross-section, for example, for square ones 38x25 cm is quite suitable.

After the calculations, you need to prepare the following materials:

• metal and asbestos cement, in some cases brick;
• cement;
• metal beams.

The foundation begins with clearing the site for construction; it is necessary to remove all debris, remove a layer of fertile soil, and install markings around the perimeter. If screw piles are used, you need to mark the points where they will be mounted, and then begin screwing them. Several people can easily handle such work; no special heavy construction equipment is required. All piles must be installed at the same depth. They are cut from above so that they have the same level. Their height should not be large; usually 30-40 cm is enough. After this, you need to prepare a concrete solution and pour it into each pipe.

When the cement has dried, you can begin constructing a belt of metal beams that act as the basis for the construction of the bathhouse itself. Such a pile foundation makes it easy to connect the sewer system and ensure the removal of all excess water from the bathhouse without the need to build a separate system under the floor.

Which foundation for a bathhouse is most suitable? When answering this question, it is necessary to pay attention to various circumstances. These are the type of soil, the size of the bath itself, the material from which it will be built. For wooden and frame baths, it is best to use lightweight types of foundations, and for a stone or brick structure it is recommended to install a reliable slab or strip foundation.

Preparation

Once a location has been chosen, it’s time to prepare the site:

• Vegetation cleaning.
• Leveling in favor of a slope on the south, west or east side.
• Filling holes, leveling hillocks.
• Marking.

The markings are made in order to take into account all parameters, including the perimeter of the walls, as well as the shower room, steam room, locker room and dressing room. The thickness of the base is added to the entire volume. Only then are the parameters of the foundation itself calculated.

Load calculation

An important, if not the most important factor in self-preparation. If you miss this moment, you can build a short-lived bathhouse. What you need to do to avoid mistakes:

1. First, we calculate the mass of the building. We make it according to the table of the specific gravity of materials multiplied by the area of ​​​​the future building. Moreover, the weight of each element of the building is taken into account separately: walls, roofing, ceilings.
2. Secondly, we calculate additional permanent loads. They include furniture, stove, wall design.
3. Thirdly, do not forget about weather conditions. The bulk of the weight in winter is snow, so the weight of the roof is multiplied by the weight of precipitation per square meter.

Another important point is calculating the supporting weight of the foundation. To do this, the perimeter is multiplied by the width, the resulting weight is compared with two centimeters of soil:

1. take the width of the wall frame;
2. calculate the perimeter;
3. multiply by square meters of area;
4. we get the reference area.

The support area can be divided by the accompanying loads, and specifically by the weight of everything that will be inside the bathhouse. If the resulting figure does not satisfy the capabilities of the supporting area, then the foundation needs to be strengthened.

An important detail that completes the calculations is the increase in the reliability point. That is, the resulting figure is multiplied by 1.2 - 1.3 for a reserve always.

What is the best foundation for a bathhouse?

The construction of a bathhouse begins with choosing a location and laying a foundation, the construction of which is discussed at the bathhouse planning stage.

What is the best foundation for a bathhouse?

Due to the presence of several types of base, a reasonable question arises, which foundation for a bathhouse is better.

The main functional feature of the base is the uniform distribution of the load from the superior building onto the ground. This is a kind of protection against freezing of soil and groundwater.

The foundation will protect the structure from displacement and deformation under the influence of the external environment, which will affect its durability.

Types of bases differ in their construction technology, design and other parameters. The most common foundations are foundations on piles, strip type and monolithic foundations.

What is the best foundation for a bathhouse?

To select the most suitable foundation for a bathhouse construction, the type of soil located at the construction site, the depth of ground freezing and the level of groundwater are taken into account.

The possibility of purchasing certain materials to create a particular foundation is also taken into account.

Load on the structure

A bathhouse made of timber is light in weight, but if it is necessary to connect this building into a larger structure, then additional calculations of the mass and pressure on the foundation will be required.

The load on the base can be calculated using the formula:

N=Nf+Nd , where:

• N – required load;
• Nf – foundation load;
• Nd – total load from the building.

Since the bathhouse is made of timber, then for ND you can take average values ​​of about 100 kg/m2 (usually a little less), since these values ​​are averaged for a log house.

The load is calculated according to the formula:

Нф=Vф*Q , where:

• Vf – volume of the base (area multiplied by height);
• Q is the density of the material.

But it is better to entrust the calculation of the load to professionals, as they will do it better, and will also immediately indicate what type of foundation is suitable for your soil with the estimated weight of the building.

Tape base.

This is the most common type, erected in any soil and does not take into account the moisture and flowability of the soil.

What is the best foundation for a bathhouse?

Its advantages of a strip foundation include the simplicity of construction technology, however, the disadvantages are the need for a large amount of building materials and significant labor costs.

Such a base is a closed monolithic strip of reinforced or unreinforced concrete mortar, running along the perimeter of the structure. Its block subtype has not a monolithic, but a prefabricated structure.

Its construction involves the following steps:

• Laying a trench with a depth of 50-70 cm and 20 cm below the freezing level;
• Filling its bottom with coarse sand to a depth of 15-20 cm;
• Creation of wooden formwork. to which a waterproofing material is attached to protect the base from groundwater;
• Laying a base of rubble, gravel, crushed stone, reinforced concrete blocks, burnt and broken bricks on a composition of cement and sand;
• After the cement composition has hardened, after 2-3 hours, dry sawdust or burlap is placed on the surface of the base, which is constantly wetted.

What is the best foundation for a bathhouse on loam?

How to correctly calculate the depth and width

A complete foundation calculation is a complex engineering task, accessible only to a trained specialist.

It is required to perform a comprehensive study of the soil, calculate the weight of the bathhouse without and with a foundation, and take into account a large number of special quantities, coefficients and indicators.

For outsiders who do not have the appropriate education and experience, such a calculation will not be possible.

The solution to the problem will be to contact specialists who professionally deal with such calculations. This option is optimal, but will require certain financial investments.

Another possible way is to use online calculators, of which there are many on the Internet. The results obtained using this method must be duplicated on other resources in order to be able to check the data obtained and select the most reliable values.

Block subtype of tape basis.

Here, the manufacturing technology and materials for the base are different. Standard concrete and reinforced concrete cushion blocks are laid in the dug trench. This is a good way to save on concrete.

Since there is a distance between the blocks, an intermittent foundation is obtained, whose shrinkage will be less. Therefore, the weight of the bathhouse building can be increased by 20-30%. For free-standing pillars and columns, prefabricated bases are made, consisting of several pillow blocks.

Block type of foundation for a bathhouse.

If the question is what is the best foundation to choose for a bathhouse, then in case of heaving and watery soil, the strip type and its subtypes are not suitable. In addition, they are labor-intensive to install compared to a foundation on piles.

Installation of formwork

To create formwork with your own hands, edged boards with a thickness of 25-40 mm are used.

There are other materials, but wood is more accessible, cheaper and easier to work with. In addition, after completion of the work, the boards can be used for other purposes.

The thickness of the boards directly depends on the height of the tape.

The formwork is assembled in stages:

• Assembly of shields. The height is 5-10 cm greater than the height of the tape; the length of the boards is determined by the length of the walls or the size of the boards.
• Installation of shields in the trench. They are fastened together by support strips that determine the thickness of the future tape. On the outside, the shields are reinforced with supports that prevent the mass of concrete from pushing the walls of the formwork outward.
• If the boards are low (up to 20 cm), supports can be omitted, securing the walls from the outside with pegs.

NOTE! When assembling the boards, gaps between the boards should not be larger than 3 mm (ideally, there should be no gaps at all). If gaps appear, they are filled with tow or slats. The installed formwork is a structure whose internal space is the exact shape of a concrete strip

After assembly, all dimensions should be checked to eliminate the possibility of errors.

The installed formwork is a structure whose interior is the exact shape of a concrete strip. After assembly, all dimensions should be checked to eliminate the possibility of errors.

Nothing can be corrected subsequently, so the assembly process must be monitored with the utmost care.

Small ruined subtype.

In turn, it is classified according to the type of structure under which it is erected: self-supporting and load-bearing walls, columns. Can be combined with foundation beams. Solid slabs in the form of ribbed or flat type and massive under the entire structure are becoming popular.

This subtype is widened at the bottom or built in steps. The upper part of the base is the edge that separates the base from the structure itself. The lower part is the sole resting on the base soil.

To learn the procedure for laying a shallow strip foundation, watch the video:

Its height is the distance from the sole to the planning mark of the earth's surface. Sometimes a glass is placed in the upper part under the column.

When is it used?

As a rule, bath structures are small, which is quite enough for the construction of strip foundations that are small in height.
The reinforced concrete structure has a high load-bearing capacity. Despite this, MFs are built only on solid, dense foundations. These are rocky, rocky and loamy soils.

The level at which the tape is laid largely depends on the depth of soil freezing. Frozen water increases in volume, turning into ice. Accordingly, the frozen layer of soil begins to swell and move upward. This process is called soil heaving

Therefore, it is important that the sole is located below this zone.

The height of the foundation will be equal to the depth plus 200 mm (height above ground level). If the freezing depth is 300 mm, then the optimal tape height will be 400 + 200 = 600 mm.

Monolithic base.

This is a floating base, poured with concrete over the entire area of ​​the building, a good option for rectangular structures on heavy soils of heaving, weak-bearing or bulk nature. This is a reliable and durable foundation, the thickness of which should be from 30 cm.

A trench 60 cm deep is dug for it and filled with crushed stone and sand, which are repeatedly watered with plenty of water to allow them to shrink. After installing the waterproofing, reinforcement and formwork are done to strengthen the base.

What is the best foundation for a bathhouse?

After pouring concrete, the monolithic foundation is held under wet sawdust or burlap.

Let's start construction

Having become familiar with a certain lyrical digression, you can begin to study the practical nuance. It must be said right away that if you still want to make a foundation on a strip basis for a greenhouse from a bar, then you can skip the moment of reinforcement. This is due to the fact that this building does not exert a significant load.

So, we perform the operations in the following order:

• First of all, the axes are broken down using a theodolite. For example, if such a device is not available, use a cord and stakes.
• Further along the lines that were pre-planned, a ditch is being driven. If the building area is large, it is recommended to use a mini excavator.

The ditch must be perfect, otherwise the entire structure will become distorted

• The dug ditch needs to be filled with sand and compacted tightly. Next, gravel is poured, and both layers must have a thickness of at least 15 cm.

We invite you to read: Advice on how to arrange a relaxation room in a bathhouse

It is important to know: the ratio of sand to gravel must be 1 to 2.

• A small layer of cement mortar is poured onto the resulting crushed stone (this is called “concrete footing”). Its thickness should be 8-10 cm. A solution of this type will harden in 4-5 days.
• After this period of time, installation of the fittings can begin. It would be better to lay a layer of waterproofing before carrying out the permitted stage. Roofing felt or special insulating compounds are suitable for this.

Important! Water, sand and gravel must be used without any impurities. Otherwise, the strength of the system may be lost.

• To lay the reinforcement, longitudinal and transverse reinforcement should be made using reinforcement rods. They will need to be fastened with wire specially designed for this purpose. Don’t forget to treat the reinforcement with anti-corrosion substances - this will extend its “lifetime”.
• Don't forget that welding areas are mostly susceptible to rust. And so finish these details very carefully.
• The load produced by the building affects the lifespan of the system. So, using, for example, a foundation on a strip basis for a gazebo made of timber, it will be possible to forget about this component for a long time. But, if we are talking about a heavier structure (for example, a bathhouse), then it is recommended to monitor its condition every year.

The planks must be firmly attached, otherwise the formwork will fall apart

• Now it’s time to create the formwork. To do this, they make a system in the middle of the ditch using some materials (plywood, sheets of metal, slate, etc.). A mixture of concrete will be poured into it.
• When pouring in cool weather, it is necessary to use cement of at least M300 grade. In acceptable conditions, the M200 brand will be sufficient. If you live in a region with a cool microclimate, then it would be better to use specialized frost-resistant additives, which will extend the life of the system.
• The ideal ratio of crushed stone, sand and cement is 5x3x1, and the amount of water should be almost half the amount of solution.

Important to know: remember the golden rule: in cool weather, use warm water and vice versa. This kind of measure will ensure the speed of hardening is favorable.

• Pour the prepared solution into the niche. Then we make several holes in it using a probe. This is necessary to remove air.
• Also, do not forget to tap the formwork using a wood hammer. The concrete mixture is compacted using a specialized vibrator. This makes it possible to proportionally place the binders.
• After three to four days, the formwork is removed. Then it is necessary to wait in the same way so that the concrete acquires the required strength in order to carry out further operations.

The frame is fixed to the foundation using specialized metal plates

• Do not forget that attaching the beam to the foundation involves a significant load on it. And therefore there is no need to proceed to this stage until the composition has completely hardened. Otherwise, you can harm the system.

If the site has weak soils, a rubble concrete foundation may be a good choice. The construction of a shallow rubble foundation is carried out in the following order.

First, a trench is dug around the perimeter of the walls of the bathhouse, 60-70 cm deep, after which stones and crushed stone are laid in rows with a solution of 1 part M400-M500 cement mixed with 3 parts sand.

Do not forget that the foundation cannot be left unloaded for a long time. Otherwise, it may become deformed under the influence of soil processes. Therefore, if you decide to start building a foundation in the summer, you cannot leave it unloaded throughout the winter.

The construction of the foundation and building frame must be completed within one season. Otherwise, by spring the foundation may be so chalky that you will have to start all over again.

When building a rubble concrete foundation, you should not take long breaks in pouring. If there is a need to interrupt work for 1-2 days, the already completed foundation should be covered with a film to prevent it from drying out and periodically shed with water (3-4 times a day).

Metal and concrete screw piles

On weak, wet, uneven and prone to crumbling soils, the only correct solution is to lay a pile-type foundation under a timber bath. Such work is carried out using special equipment (in case of high soil density and long supports) or independently using devices for screwing metal piles or hand drills for preparing holes for concrete pillars. The technology for constructing a foundation from screw piles is recognized as the most effective and fastest. When implementing it, a simple algorithm of actions is carried out:

1. The pile field is marked according to a pre-drawn diagram , with pegs driven in in the right places and the level checked using a cord and a laser pointer. Supports are laid in the corners and under all load-bearing structures of a wooden bathhouse, including stove foundations, in increments of no more than 2 m. If the bathhouse is heavy and the soil has low load-bearing capacity, the piles are screwed in not only around the perimeter, but also under the building itself, followed by tying it with metal or timber .

2. In the marked places, pits up to 50 cm deep are prepared. After this, piles are screwed into them using a screw device placed on the top of the metal support. Thanks to special blades or pointed ends, problems with twisting metal piles under a bathhouse do not arise; the need to use special equipment arises only in extreme cases (the presence of large debris in the ground or construction on peat bogs).

3. After screwing in and checking the evenness, the piles are cut to a height of 20-40 cm and filled with concrete. At the same stage, threaded rods with a cross-section of at least 15 mm are installed in their upper part to hold the timber frame, or metal caps are welded for subsequent fastening of the channel.

Advice! When pouring concrete into a pile, it is best to additionally reinforce the pile with reinforcement (three rods connected to each other)

Advice! The most problematic node in a metal pile is the point of contact with the ground, this is where corrosion begins, so additionally treat this place with an anti-corrosion compound.

Advice! After welding, paint all welded areas to prevent corrosion.

Advice! Choose only high-quality piles. The blades of the piles play an important role, they are the ones who transfer the load to the ground, so when twisting, make sure that the blades do not damage. This will be indicated by easier twisting of the pile; such a pile definitely needs to be replaced, as it will sag under the weight of the structure.

An alternative to metal piles are driven or vibrating reinforced concrete supports . This option is considered reliable, but expensive due to the need to use special equipment.

When constructing on wet soils, supports need enhanced protection from corrosion or the aggressive effects of groundwater. Under such conditions, metal piles are pre-treated on the outside with protective compounds, while concrete piles have a higher water resistance grade or are coated with bitumen.

Attention! No matter how much you might think that driven concrete piles are a more reliable solution, this is not the case at all. I’ll explain why: the concrete pile has a point at the end and the area of ​​contact with the soil under the pile is much smaller. The likelihood of such a pile subsiding is much higher than a screw pile made in compliance with installation technology.

Screw piles bath

From the height of groundwater

Saturation of the soil with moisture, in addition to the obvious negative impact on building structures (corrosion, increased aggressive effects of mineral substances, erosion and freezing of the sole, dampness in basements and underground) sharply reduces its load-bearing capacity.

The only exceptions in this regard are coarse and gravelly sands with a constant resistance to weight loads of at least 4 kg/cm2. The high degree of moisture saturation of the soil in the areas is usually explained by the close occurrence of aquifer veins and is leveled in one of the following ways:

• Placing a drainage system around the perimeter of the bathhouse with a shallow strip foundation. • Installation of a pile-screw foundation with piping above ground level. • Laying an insulated Swedish slab with a high base.

The latter option is rarely chosen when building log baths due to the high cost of materials and the large amount of work. Investments in a pile-screw foundation (if necessary, with enhanced anti-corrosion protection of the supports) and systems for draining water from the building, on the contrary, always pay off when the groundwater level is high.

Choosing a tree for the future log house

Before you decide which is better - timber or log bathhouses, you need to learn how to determine the quality of the wood and how to harvest it correctly.

Which forest is better - summer or winter?

There is an opinion that winter wood for building a bathhouse is much better than summer wood. They say that in winter the movement of sap in the tree naturally stops. Therefore, the wood in it is not so wet and gives fewer cracks. In fact, precisely because of the stopped sap, which remained in the log, the winter log is much heavier in weight than the summer one, and the humidity in it is much higher. Soviet scientists also proved that the highest humidity in wood is in November-February, the lowest in July-August.

If we talk about the issue of wood moisture, then what time of day it was chopped is of greater importance. So, in the morning the humidity in the sapwood is 186%, exactly at noon - 132%, and at dusk - 150%. And this despite the fact that in summer the moisture content of sapwood can be as much as 50% lower than in winter. Then a fair question arises: why was the log house for baths and houses in Rus' always worked only in winter? Everything is very simple: bringing a whole log on a cart with a horse is unrealistic; this could only be done on a sleigh. And in the summer, as well as in the spring and autumn, there was a ton of things to do in the villages. Today, the world about the quality of winter forest is used only to benefit builders.

If you look at it in general, then for the construction of a bathhouse you can order both winter and summer wood - both are good.

What to look for when choosing logs?

The region where the forest grew is no less important: the further north it is, the denser the wood will be - because the conditions of such Russian regions contribute to this. And today the best wood is considered to be from the Pskov region - it is the most durable, resistant to rotting and almost does not crack.

In general, you can understand whether the selected forest is healthy by such signs as wormholes, rot and quality of processing. Another important sign of quality is the absence of a large number of knots. After all, the frame of a bathhouse from linden and any other wood is made from certain sections of logs and is called a butt log. It starts from the root of the tree and ends at the very base of the crown. Therefore, it consists of the densest wood, and it does not have multiple inclusions of knots. If they brought you custom-made logs rich in such shoots, you are being deceived.

An important indicator of quality is also the curvature of the tree trunk - if the deviation is more than 1 cm per meter of log, this is a serious defect. The same with the diameter: if at the base it is 30 cm, and at the top - 24, then you cannot build a bathhouse from it. After all, finishing the log house of a bathhouse is considered unnecessary because of the natural beauty of this building material - if, of course, the logs themselves are the same, uniform and healthy. Otherwise, you will have to think about expensive siding.

Poured piles when working independently

The function of supports for this type of foundation is performed by:

• thick-walled metal or asbestos-cement pipes, immersed in dug holes with a depth of 2 m or more and filled with sand or lean concrete; • sleeves made of roofing felt with the same depth, filled with good quality mobile concrete and reinforced with metal.

The preparatory work is practically no different from the previous ones: the areas are cleared, leveled as much as possible and marked. The main difficulties arise at the stage of drilling holes, which, according to technology requirements, are laid below the freezing level.

When constructing a foundation yourself, this work is carried out using a hand or gasoline drill, with the obligatory protection of the edges of the holes from crumbling. After this, pipes coated with mastic or fake roofing felt or rolled up sleeves made of dense rolled waterproofing with a reinforced frame are carefully immersed into the holes.

Concrete pouring begins after checking the accuracy of the supports. But according to technology standards, this work is carried out in the warm season and dry weather.

The solution is poured in small portions, without interruptions, with the obligatory removal of air using long pins. At the final stage of concreting, scraps of strong steel wire or anchor bolts are placed in the upper parts of the supports.

Advice! Such a foundation, when executed independently, is the most reliable and inexpensive. But at the same time, it is labor-intensive, since drilling wells is not an easy process and depends on your soil.

Attention! The most reliable solution for this design would be to create extensions at the end of the pile (the so-called TISE foundation) to increase the foundation support area. Such a foundation is suitable even for building a house. But I’ll say right away that it’s easy to say, but in reality, such a foundation is difficult to implement due to soil crumbling, and the Tise drill will not help here.

Poured piles

Basic principles of construction

Depending on the height of the pillars immersion into the ground, the foundation can be:

• shallow;
• recessed;
• not buried.

In most cases, the first two types of bases are suitable for a bath.

Shallow base

In this case, all platform components are formed into a single strong structure, sensitive to any soil distortion. The structure evenly directs the load over the entire surface of the base. The supports are connected by a solid grillage made of reinforced concrete or metal brackets.

A shallow foundation may have a slight rise in the base, while deformation in level is not allowed above the permissible calculations that are used in the construction business, and on which the structure of the building directly depends.

All calculations for a shallow foundation are carried out in the same way as in the case of other types of foundation.

Recessed base

This type of sole differs in the depth of the pillars and directly depends on the amount of soil freezing. Basically this depth exceeds 0.4 meters. The stages themselves are the same as for the foundation of a small foundation.

You can dig holes with a mechanical or gasoline drill, or with a specialized machine. In the latter case, you will have to turn to construction companies for help.

Despite the small volume of the structure and relatively low weight, on heaving soils it is better to install supports below the freezing point of the ground. Otherwise, when the temperature changes, the foundation may “walk”.

Projects and planning

During the first phase of construction, important design decisions must be made. You can make a simple one-story building or a full-fledged house with a veranda - it all depends on your budget and skills. You should also consider the size of the bathhouse and draw a detailed diagram. According to the standards, approximately 4 m2 should be allocated per person in the steam room. It is necessary to indicate the location of the stove; usually its foundation is laid during the construction of the bathhouse itself.

The standard building consists of a steam room, a vestibule and a dressing room. The bathhouse should have such dimensions that it is comfortable for everyone. At the same time, modern buildings for this purpose can be dry and damp. The first option provides for a temperature in the range of 60-120°C and a humidity of 5-25%. A wet bath heats up less, to 50-70°C, but the moisture level is higher and amounts to 80-100%.

In the latter version, the wooden structure consists of a washing room, a steam room with a stove and shelves, and a warm dressing room. But the Finnish sauna is simply a steam room with stones on which herbal tinctures or essential oils are dripped. The function of the premises is the same, but the appearance and size differ. Usually at the dacha they build just a Russian bathhouse with a steam room and washing rooms, a room for relaxation and changing clothes.

The dimensions of the bathhouse are easiest to calculate depending on the number of people who will use the building. So, a small bathhouse is suitable for one person. The washing room has one purpose and can be as small as 1 m2. But the locker room should be made so that it is convenient to use without hitting the walls. The size of the steam room depends on the method of use - 1 m2 is enough for a sitting bench.

A timber bathhouse for 2-4 people is always free-standing; a dressing room is a must. For each person in the locker room, you should calculate 1 m2 or a little more. The washing room is more spacious than the previous room

This is especially important if children will go to the bathhouse. The steam room must accommodate benches measuring at least 180x60 cm

For a summer bath, the requirements are slightly less. You don’t even have to make a shower, but use an outdoor structure. Such a bathhouse is usually small and can be made from beams of small width. You can make a building literally 6 by 3 meters in size.

A project plan is simply necessary before construction begins. It helps to visualize what is being done and calculate the amount of material needed. The main thing is to decide on the number of people who will steam at the same time. For example, a family bathhouse may be small, but for gatherings with friends you should take care of a large space. If the building will be used both in summer and winter, then you should consider the optimal arrangement.

In some large baths you can even make a full bathroom for convenience. So, the entire internal structure should be displayed on the diagram. Inside the bath you need a steam room, a shower, a dressing room, shelves and beds, and a stove. You can arrange a locker room with lockers for clothes. When calculating, you should also take into account some nuances.

• The height of the building and the length of each wall. This is necessary to calculate the material.
• Selecting wall thickness. At the bottom, a thicker frame is used, for example, 200x200 mm. Next, timber 100x100 mm or 100x150 mm will be suitable. Moreover, it is the second option that is the most popular for a medium or large-sized bathhouse.

Selection of materials

For a small bathhouse, we choose cheap but quite satisfactory quality materials. What do you need to prepare?

Table of building materials

Nails and self-tapping screws of various sizes, metal corners for the rafter system, construction fittings, windows and doors. You can make windows and doors yourself (cheap, but time-consuming, and quite difficult) or buy ready-made ones (quick and will cost less in the end). You will need insulation, electrical cables and fittings.

Nails, screws

Perforated fasteners

Armature

Insulation materials

Bath cable

Sockets and switches for the bathhouse IP 54

We specially provided all materials in reserve. Firstly, during any construction it is impossible to do without unproductive waste. Secondly, lumber and hardware are always useful on the farm. If you have the opportunity and desire, you can make a water supply and drainage. There is no desire or opportunity - the bathhouse will “function” anyway, only the water will have to be carried into a boiler installed in the stove (for hot) and into a barrel (for cold) in buckets. We choose the simplest option - we will not deal with engineering water supply systems.

Small sauna made of timber 3x3 m