We select and build a foundation for a bathhouse made of foam blocks: depth, types. How not to collapse a building

A reliable and high-quality foundation is the basis of the entire building, on which the entire subsequent “life” of the building depends . It happens that one foundation alternately bears several types of walls, which age, are demolished, and others are erected in their place. A low-quality foundation will not tolerate this; it will collapse on its own and ruin the walls resting on it. Therefore, only a properly designed and constructed foundation can serve for a long time and reliably.

Depth depending on soil type.

Before carrying out technical work on installing the foundation for the bathhouse, it is necessary to conduct a geological survey .

Depending on the identification of the exact type of soil, its load-bearing properties, the possibility of changing quantitative parameters as a result of tectonic changes, the best material for the foundation is determined, and most importantly, its depth is calculated. Correct calculation of the burial depth, in some cases, will save the foundation and walls of the bathhouse from subsidence, cracks, distortion, and deformation.

Fine and dusty sandy soils contribute to strong shrinkage of the bathhouse foundation. To reduce or level out this process, the depth of the foundation can be significantly increased. Instead of the planned 50 cm depth, it would be advisable to increase it to 70-100 cm. With increasing foundation depth, the compression resistance increases proportionally. This value in fine sands is approximately two times lower than in coarse sands. In order to make up for the missing load-bearing capacity, the depth of the foundation is doubled.

Gravelly and coarse sandy soils are quite reliable in terms of load-bearing qualities. Sandy soils are not heaving, so regardless of the amount of precipitation per year or the depth of freezing, you can choose any type of foundation for a bathhouse. Coarse sandy soils exhibit insignificant shrinkage compared to fine ones. On them it will be easy to build a shallow foundation, ranging in size from 20 to 50 cm.

Sandy soil does not retain water, which means it is a light soil. A pile or columnar foundation can be built on it. The depth of the pillars is approximately 1.5 m.

Rocky soils have the best load-bearing qualities of all other types of soils. They practically do not shrink, supporting the weight of fairly large-scale structures. Rocky soils are not heaving because they do not retain water in their pores. The depth of soil freezing will not be taken into account when building the foundation. There is no excess moisture in the soil, so they will not expand due to the conversion of water into ice. On rocky soils, foundations can be installed more economically.

Rocky terrain acts as an unshakable foundation for a building, so shallow or shallow foundations (less than 20 cm) are always built there.

Clay soils . unlike most others, they have a finely porous structure. The main disadvantage of clay soils is their ability to swell. The proximity of groundwater and abundant rainfall contribute to the rapid accumulation of water in the pores of the soil. With the onset of sub-zero temperatures, water turns into ice. The density of water, after turning into ice, increases, which leads to an expansion of the volume of the entire soil. Changes in soil volume place additional load on the foundation, causing its deformation, cracking, distortion, and lifting of the bathhouse building.

Calculations for deepening the foundation on clay soils are carried out taking into account the freezing depth . It is necessary to build the foundation below the soil freezing level, then the loads will be exerted only on the side walls of the foundation, eliminating pressure on the base of the foundation. For example, the depth of soil freezing is 1.5 m, which means the foundation lies at a distance of 1.6 m. The high level of groundwater will not allow the necessary deepening of the foundation.

The base of the foundation is at an indentation of no lower than 0.5-1 m. Sufficient distance will be required in case of capillary rise of water in the soil and in case of an unexpected increase in water level due to heavy floods or prolonged downpours. To drain excess water from the ground, a drainage system is installed around the foundation. They dig a trench deeper than the base of the foundation. They lay the foundation around the perimeter with a pipe and lead it into the inspection well. Water will not accumulate and freeze in the pores of the soil, and excess water will also be automatically drained in the event of a strong rise in the groundwater level.

When installing a drainage system, the depth of the foundation can be changed, taking into account the load-bearing properties of the soil and non-tectonic parameters, which are also important for calculating the depth of the foundation for a bathhouse.

Introduction

If you have not been involved in construction and the site is not familiar to you, then you do not know the characteristics of the soil, however, it will be quite easy to find out them even for a non-professional.
To do this, dig a hole from half a meter to one and a half meters deep. More specifically, this will depend on the level of groundwater. If you find peat, sand, or marshy soil in the resulting hole, this indicates that the soil is weak and that you should choose either a slab foundation or a pile-screw foundation, that is, one that is characterized by increased durability and reliability. A strip structure on a reinforced sand bed is also acceptable

But here it is extremely important to create a monolithic foundation, because the block version will simply be unreliable

If you find a lot of clay, loam, gravel, or medium sand in the soil composition, then the density of such soil will be average, which means that it is possible to choose a strip or columnar foundation. This type of foundation is ideal for baths of absolutely any type.

In the event that quartz, fairly dense fine sand or rocky rocks are clearly visible in the soil, then absolutely any type of foundation is perfect for such stable soil.

After a careful study of the soils, the selection of materials will follow. If you prefer bricks, foam blocks, natural or artificial stone or other material that consists of large stone-like elements, then the foundation in this case must be of a strip or slab type.

If you are attracted to timber or logs as a material, then it is advisable to choose a columnar structure. However, if the site has weak soils, then it is better to choose a screw foundation.

The depth depends on the type of foundation.

Height of the foundation for the bathhouse.
The columnar foundation is formed by horizontal pillars located along the contour of the bathhouse walls. The main advantage is considered to be high wear resistance, suitability for many types of soil and cost-effectiveness. Its versatility deserves attention. Depending on the material for the walls of the bathhouse, you can use concrete, wooden, or brick pillars. The standard length of pillars is from 2 m. It is laid at 1-1.5 m. There is a shallow columnar foundation, occupying a height of only 50-70 cm. It is laid at 40-60 cm.

The pile foundation is prepared for construction by drilling wells. It is laid in several ways. The easiest way is to pour concrete mixture into pre-dug wells using a hand drill. Wooden and steel piles are laid. The main advantage of a pile foundation is that the foundation lies below the soil freezing level. A team of workers will be able to install the piles in just 1-2 days. The burial depth is determined for each structure, the maximum is more than five meters.

The screw foundation got its name due to its manufacturing technology. Screw piles resemble the shape of a screw and, thanks to special blades, are easily screwed into the ground. Building a foundation on screw piles has many advantages. For such a foundation you do not need to dig a trench or even level the ground. Suitable for all types of soil, except rocky. Service life more than 100 years. Disadvantages include average load-bearing qualities.

The piles are installed in a certain order. The distance between the piles should not be less than 3 m. The piles lie at least 1.5 m deep into the ground. The maximum depth of the pile foundation is 2.4-2.6 m, since the longest pile length is 3 m. If the required depth is greater, than indicated, piles can be built up using reinforced concrete.

The slab foundation consists of a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. Its minimum thickness is only 15 cm.

A shallow foundation is laid 30-40 cm deep into the ground.

Floating foundations are a type of shallow slab foundation. It differs from other foundations in the presence of stiffening ribs - dense placement of reinforcement along the entire perimeter of the slab.

The peculiarity of the floating slab is the ability to move. Unlike other types of foundation, a floating slab does not compete with the pushing forces of the soil, but moves slightly as they rise in the cold season, due to their lowering with the arrival of spring.

A floating foundation will be an excellent way out of a difficult situation related to soil characteristics. When there is close groundwater and a high level of soil freezing, a floating foundation is built on the surface. The minimum deepening of the foundation is only 40 cm.

How high is the foundation for a bathhouse?

Tape

The strip type foundation is the most common in the construction of structures made of wooden logs or timber. It is used if the building site is dominated by stationary and low-moving soils. This type can easily withstand the light weight of the bath.

The use of a strip foundation will greatly simplify the construction of drainage from the bathhouse under the floor. In this case, there will be no need to equip the side walls of the underground space, as, for example, in the case of arranging a column-type base.

The main stages of work for constructing the belt

Calculation of the required amount of materials

At this stage, it is necessary to calculate the required volume of the finished cement-gravel mortar. To do this, multiply the height of the tape by its width and the length of the foundation along the perimeter. Then the resulting value must be divided by 5 and the result multiplied by the volume fractions of the substances included in the mixture.

For example, for a bathhouse 6*4 meters you need: 0.8 m (height of the foundation) multiplied by 0.3 m (width of the tape) and multiplied by 20 (length of the tape around the perimeter), resulting in rounding up to get 5 cubic meters of solution.

Information. The standard composition of the mixture is prepared in proportions (by volume): 1 (cement) * 1 (water) * 1 (sand) * 3 (gravel or crushed stone).

Marking the territory is carried out using a construction tape measure and half-meter-long pegs.

First of all, the long side of the future foundation is measured and fixed with pegs.

Then, using a construction harness, the location of the diagonal angle is found using simple mathematical calculations.

A peg is also installed there. All stakes are then connected with a cord with a slight stretch.

In order to ensure the accuracy of the obtained dimensions, it is necessary to measure the diagonals of the future foundation. They should be the same, maximum spread +– 2 cm.

Sequence of work during the construction of the belt

1. Digging a pit. Depending on the type of soil and the plane of the site, the depth of the pit can be from 60 to 80 cm, and the width - from 30 cm. Work must be performed carefully to avoid shedding of the side walls and displacement relative to the plane of the tensioned cord.
2. Installation of formwork. Its height can be 20–50 cm, depending on the level of the site on which construction is carried out.
3. Geotextiles are placed at the bottom of the pit to prevent mixing of the fractions that make up the cushion with the soil.
4. A layer of waterproofing is laid along the side walls of the pit and formwork. It could be roofing felt or another, more modern material.
5. Fine sand is poured into the hole to create a cushion. Its purpose is additional waterproofing and shock absorption of seasonal soil movements. The thickness of the layer is 15–20 cm. The sand is thoroughly poured with water and compacted with a vibrating plate or improvised means.
6. A reinforcing frame made of rods 12 mm thick is mounted on the resulting cushion. The frame should be double-row, with transverse struts made of reinforcement 8 - 10 mm thick.
   Special spacers for reinforcement or ordinary bricks are inserted under the bottom row to evenly position the frame in the thickness of the concrete.

When everything is ready, the concrete solution is poured

It is very important to carry it out in one go, without interruptions.

Otherwise, the base may crack at the joints and individual layers.

Important! When pouring the tape, it is very important to maintain a minimum distance of 3 cm from the reinforcement to any of the outer planes of concrete, which will help to avoid cracks and destruction of the reinforcement.

Work on the construction of the bathhouse can begin 3 weeks after pouring the foundation.

The strip type will be an excellent solution for building a bathhouse from timber, logs or a frame bathhouse. The only limitation here is swampy heaving soils, subject to horizontal seasonal shifts.

Depth of the strip foundation for the bathhouse.

The height of the bathhouse foundation from the ground.
The classic depth of a strip foundation consists of a twenty-centimeter, well-compacted sand cushion. Above is a foundation 60 cm high: 40 cm lies in the ground, and the remaining 20 cm extends to the surface. Since the strip foundation has become the most popular, universal option for bathhouse foundations, the correct calculation of its depth needs to be studied in more detail.

First of all, they start from the properties of the soil . Frequently encountered problems related to the structure of the soil when designing a foundation affect the depth of its construction. The risk of cracks arises when erected on rocky soil. In this case, a shallow or non-buried foundation is used. Soil prone to swelling requires the foundation to be sunk deeply below the freezing level. The possibility of foundation failure is characteristic of fine sandy soils. When building a foundation on such soil, a deep foundation is designed to increase compression resistance.

The height of the foundation for a bathhouse made of foam blocks.

Roof construction

The construction of a roof for a bathhouse made of foam blocks is practically no different from the construction of a roof for buildings made of other materials. The only exception is that it is customary to make ventilation holes in the roofs of bathhouses made of foam blocks to avoid the accumulation of excess moisture inside the bathhouse.

As can be seen from the description, building from foam blocks with your own hands is not very difficult. And given the fact that foam block is much more convenient in construction and more durable than many other materials, it is most preferable for DIY construction of bathhouses and other buildings on a personal plot of land.

Other parameters affecting the depth of the foundation.

The depth of the foundation depends on the material . from which the walls for the bath are made. A stone bathhouse requires from 1 m, preferably from 1.5 m. A bathhouse made of logs or timber also needs a foundation of at least 1 m. Laying cinder block walls is 1.5 times lighter than brick, so the foundation can be laid from 0.5 m. Aerated concrete and foam concrete blocks need foundation with a depth of 40 cm.

a significant influence on the depth of the foundation for a bathhouse.

Having compared all the factors that influence the depth of its occurrence, having determined the required depth for a specific foundation, you can proceed to the stage of its construction.

Insulation, waterproofing, finishing and cladding

The walls are insulated with expanded clay (for example, pouring it into the gap between elements of lightweight masonry), mineral wool - on the outside, under the façade cladding.

The attic floor also needs to be thermally insulated if the bathhouse is to be used all year round. The insulation is laid on a vapor barrier material.

One of the reasons for the premature destruction of bathhouse walls made of cellular concrete is excessive water saturation of the wall material.

The wall gets wet due to poorly executed hydro- and vapor barriers, leaks in the roof, as well as due to the insulation of the bathhouse from foam blocks from the inside.

In addition, a wet wall should have the opportunity to dry. Foam concrete walls are not insulated with expanded polystyrene.

Foam concrete has significant water absorption. Where foam blocks come into contact with water, they are coated with bitumen mastic and covered with rolled waterproof material.

The remaining surfaces are hydrophobized and plastered with a material with a porous filler: expanded clay, pumice. (The plaster is applied from the inside along the beacons - vertical guides).

Vapor barrier materials include foil, polyethylene film, and glassine. The facade finishing of the bathhouse will prevent corrosion of foam concrete - a response to environmental aggression, and will protect the insulation and windproof shell.

The facade system can be made without breaking the continuity (like covering plaster on a heat-insulating layer glued to the wall or mechanically fastened to it). For a bathhouse made of cellular concrete, façade structures with a gap ventilated through vents in the cladding are preferred.

Important! Cladding an insulated façade with brick or block masonry requires the use of a material with high frost resistance.

Foam concrete is directly covered with plaster or facade tiles. Before plastering, the wall is cleaned, degreased and primed. The surface of foam blocks is often not rough enough for coating, then it is covered with a special mesh.

The insulation is covered with plaster if its strength characteristics allow it. The final finishing is painting materials or a thin layer of decorative plaster.

Interior decoration of walls is carried out 1–2 years after construction.

Which foundation for baths is better and how to make it yourself.

The height of the strip foundation for a bathhouse.
View of the finished block base for a bathhouse.

Building a bathhouse is a less complicated task than building a private house, for example, but still requires skills and a professional approach.

So, initially, having chosen a convenient place, you need to make a foundation for a small bathhouse. The question becomes about the choice of material from which it will have to be built in the future. If the walls are made from lightweight foam blocks, the same preparation is needed; when constructing walls from expanded clay concrete blocks, the base is made completely differently. If construction is carried out using a log house, you can get by with arranging a foundation made of sleepers, timber or car tires.

The monolithic option is taken into account only when constructing a heavy structure. Let’s take a closer look at where and what kind of foundation for a bathhouse is better to build with your own hands and how long it will take to dry.

How rational is it to choose the foam block option?

Let's look today at how rational the choice of building a house from foam blocks would be. What pitfalls can we expect, what should we pay attention to, and what is the approximate cost of building a house from foam blocks.

What determines the choice?

Before we get to the calculations and construction, let’s try to explain why we chose foam concrete to build the house. And in order to answer this question as accurately as possible, we will consider both the positive and negative aspects of this material.

Advantages

First of all, let's note environmental friendliness

This is a porous material, it takes a very long time to heat up and gives off heat for just as long. This will play a role in heating the room.

Easy to use. Considering that for the most part we want to save money, the option of self-construction is exactly what will allow us to do this

It is important that foam blocks are quite easy to work with, and the basic principles do not require special knowledge of masonry.

An example of a foam block product of different dimensions

Flaws

Negative qualities, we will definitely encounter some of them during our work, so we will also announce this list, although it is not large:

• Necessity of finishing. On the one hand, this is a completely logical continuation of construction, on the other hand, it always slightly increases the overall estimate.
• High hygroscopicity. This property is not necessarily negative in the true sense, however, in our case, if we do not waterproof the base, there is a risk of significantly reducing the service life of the house.

The scales have definitely tipped towards the choice of this particular material, mind you!

Projects

The situation with projects of foam block houses and cottages is ambiguous. Of course, the project is necessary; without it, you won’t be able to obtain any permits for the construction of the house itself, but this is also an additional cost.

In general, let’s say we can’t do without this, but how much house designs made from foam blocks and the cost of construction can cost us is a question directly for the designers.

Small house project

There are, for example, ready-made drawings, fully developed and adapted to specific terrain conditions and soil. Such projects may be assessed separately.

Some designers prefer to work based on the square footage of the future building. That is, we pay for every square meter.

It is difficult to give specific figures for the project; it will be easier to contact several design bureaus and get price lists from them.

Option of a house with construction calculations

Now we won’t go through the materials so much, we’ll just leave them as a “snack”, but consider what the financial component of the building itself depends on:

Site preparation and territory marking.

Marking the foundation for a bathhouse.
Construction begins with markings. You will need a few tools: 10 wooden stakes, a hammer, a tape measure 15 meters long, a construction cord of 25 m, or a fishing line, a hydraulic level of 20 m. Let's take a regular foundation made of expanded clay concrete blocks. Such a foundation for a bathhouse can be built with your own hands in a couple of days and does not require a huge investment of funds. Let's take the standard option.

We calculate the width of small pits. We take into account the insulation and piping of the foundation blocks of the bath: 200 mm is the width of the block, and 400 mm is the length. The height of the base part is approximately 600 mm, 3 blocks. It turns out that the pits for development will be: 450 x 450 mm, with a depth of 0.8 meters - this is the standard width and depth for the usual construction of a block base made of expanded clay concrete blocks. Now let's move on to developing pits.

Types of building materials

When making foundation materials, two types of foaming agent are used - organic and synthetic. Organic contains hydrolysates of proteins of plant and animal origin.

This material gains increased strength, but suffers from thermal insulation characteristics. When adding a synthetic foaming agent, tree resin is used. The thermal conductivity of such blocks is lower, but the strength characteristics are worse.

Reference! To build a base for a sauna, it is better to choose blocks of increased strength.

Several foam concrete parameters that are suitable for foundation construction:

• brand – D800-D1000;
• length – 600 mm;
• width – 200-300 mm;
• height – 300 mm;
• strength – 27-50 kg/cm2;
• thermal conductivity – 0.21-0.29;
• frost resistance – F50-75;
• vapor permeability – 0.11-0.14.

Foam blocks of this brand weigh on average from 31 to 40 kg. Several workers can lift such a weight, so it makes no sense to order special construction equipment, which allows you to save on construction.

Development of soil for a bathhouse.

To make the foundation of a bathhouse with your own hands you will need: a bayonet shovel, a scoop, a pick in case of the presence of stones, an ax for snags, and a cart for removing soil. Having dug to the specified depth, we clearly level all the edges. A foundation for the firebox (sauna stove) should also be provided. We must not forget that the installation of a firebox inside a building requires the preparation of a concrete pad. This is done before the main monolith is poured, after calculations a cushion is made, and then the support pits are poured under the expanded clay concrete blocks.

What parameters need to be taken into account when choosing a foundation for a block house?

This relatively new material has many advantages over its analogues:

• ease;
• hygroscopicity;
• high sound and heat insulation properties;
• environmental friendliness;
• non-flammability.

The foundation for a house made of foam blocks is built with your own hands according to the same principles as the foundations for any other buildings. When choosing the type of foundation you need to pay attention to the following parameters:

1. Soil characteristics. These include freezing depth, soil composition, and groundwater level.
2. Estimated load. This includes the weight of the building itself, including its underground part, the weight of furniture, communications, and residents. When calculating the load, an adjustment must be made for the additional load from precipitation - rain and snow. It is at this point that the advantage of expanded clay concrete blocks, which have much less weight than conventional brick, will be visible. Consequently, a block house requires a less capital foundation.
3. The cost of the material, as well as the timing of laying and standing of one or another type of foundation.

Influence of soil parameters on choice

Let us note right away that you should not try to save money on the construction of the base. This saving can create a lot of problems in the future. An improperly laid foundation can cause walls and floors to break, the house to slope, and dampness and mold to grow inside the building.

Scheme of laying a foundation made of foam blocks

Ordering a 3D model of the soil on which construction will be carried out is quite an expensive undertaking, and not everyone can afford to turn to specialists. If your neighbors built not long ago and conducted a soil study, you are in luck. You can use their calculations. It is unlikely that the data will differ much within small areas. If this is not possible, we will try to do everything ourselves.

To do this, you need to drill a well (preferably several) up to 2.5 meters deep, not forgetting to take soil samples every 20-30 cm. This way you can understand what type of soil you will have to deal with and what the depth of the groundwater is.

If the soil is not heaving, then the soil freezes shallowly. Provided that groundwater flows at a level of at least 2 meters, you can opt for a shallow foundation. It is the least financially expensive and easier to build with your own hands.

For close groundwater and heaving soils, it is better to use more permanent types of foundations.

Pillow for a stove or firebox.

The height of the foundation above ground level for a bathhouse.
Preparing a pillow for a stove or firebox.

Dig a pit 1200 x 1200 mm to a depth of 600 mm. This depth was not chosen by chance; 300 mm is sprinkled with sand. The pillow is compacted using a hand tamper. The following steps follow:

1. A layer of waterproofing material is laid on the bottom so that there is a reserve and the edges protrude outside the pit.
2. Place the frame (formwork) at the required height and pour a 200 mm concrete slab.
3. Insulation is carried out with 50 mm polystyrene foam slabs, placing it directly on fresh concrete.
4. Then pour a finishing layer of screed, 50-150 mm. The insulation under the heating element is ready.

After concrete work on the installation of a load-bearing cushion, it is necessary to lay a network of water supply and sewerage pipes and carry out their complete insulation.

Tip: The base for the firebox should not come into contact with the main foundation, since it tends to expand when heated. The gap is filled with sand after concrete work and dismantling of the upper formwork.

Preparation for construction: drawings and project dimensions

The bathhouse, originally intended only for hygienic purposes, today is gradually turning into a multifunctional structure. At the same time, it increasingly resembles a recovery center. In addition to using the premises for direct purposes, the bathhouse can be combined with a summer kitchen and laundry room.

Selecting a location

This is not an idle question, and when solving it, the following circumstances must be taken into account:

• the distance from the foundation of the bathhouse to the border of the site must be at least 2.5 meters;
• distance to the water intake point - at least 20 meters;
• there should be more than 10 meters between a residential building and a bathhouse.

These requirements are justified by the need to maintain the quality of water in a well or borehole and the safety of the foundation of a residential building. Depending on the building density, it may be necessary to install a septic tank. This is the case when there is no central sewer system at the construction site.

How to properly place a bathhouse on a country site

Room layout

When designing a bathhouse, it is necessary to provide the following functional blocks:

• waiting room;
• locker room;
• steam room;
• shower;
• cooling and relaxation area;
• restroom.

Let's consider the ratios that allow us to determine the size of each compartment.

Arrangement of a bathhouse for simultaneous visits by up to 10 people

Waiting

This room must accommodate at least 2/3 of the people than the number of seats in the steam room. The room equipment should include hangers for outerwear, space for shoes and an appropriate number of seats.

Locker room

The number of seats in this room should be twice the capacity of the steam room. Each visitor needs an area of ​​at least 1.2 m2.

An example of a cozy changing room in a bathhouse

Here you need to place a hanger and a wardrobe with at least one hook for clothes per person. The size of this device is 190x160x40 centimeters, the distance to the walls is at least 85 centimeters on each side. The room is equipped with seats or a bench.

Shower room

The correct place to place it is between the locker room and the steam room. The number of suffocating devices is calculated from the ratio of one nipple per four seats in the steam room. Hangers and shelves in this room should be made of easy-to-clean material. The floor is made with a slope towards the drain, made of non-slip materials.

Creating a beautiful interior in a simple sink

Steam room

The size of this room should take into account the possible number of people steaming at the same time. The minimum presence must be at least two people at the rate of 85 centimeters per person. You also need to take into account the size of the heater.

Convenient steam room for a country bath

Relaxation and cooling area

It is customary to install a swimming pool in this room. Its minimum surface area is 6 square meters and its depth is 1.3 meters. If there are children in the bathhouse, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of lowering the level to 0.5 meters. If there is not enough space on the site, the pool and recreation area are placed in the open air.

Design option for a relaxation room for a bath

Toilet room

It is placed in such a way that it is possible to connect the drain in the same system as the shower. The minimum room dimensions are 0.85 x 1.5 meters.

To complete the drawing, it is better to use paper with a millimeter grid and draw on it the location of all rooms in real dimensions, including the thickness of the partitions. The main walls are drawn last, the size of the building is determined by the layout of the above departments. Doorways in the bathhouse are made with dimensions of at least 0.8x1.9 meters.

Networks and drain.

Width and height of the foundation for the bathhouse.
Laying pipes for water supply networks for drainage in the bathhouse.

Let's move on to laying pipes for water supply networks. Calculation of the diameter and length of water supply networks is carried out in advance, before all concrete work is carried out. Separate trenches are dug under the water supply pipes to the pipe outlet points. The installation of water supply networks requires special skills and knowledge, but you can prepare trenches yourself. According to the technology, the pipes are laid on a bed of crushed stone. The bottom of the ditches is filled with gravel, the standard layer thickness is 80-100 mm. The ends of the pipes are brought out 100 mm above the floor level, in the right place and closed with plugs.

Subsequently, after all the concrete work and the construction of walls from sleepers, all pipes and internal networks are installed. The depth of laying pipes in the ground on the outside of the room is 1200 mm, and on the inside 600 mm. The installation of networks can be carried out simultaneously with the drainage by laying the pipes together.

The cushion for laying pipes and networks must be compacted. The slope for laying sewer pipes, the height of the inlet and outlet openings, and the drainage angle are measured. Before making the entire foundation for the bathhouse, take care of the wastewater drain. Prepare a hole or pit and drain there. The optimal distance between the bathhouse and the drain is 6-10 meters, otherwise the log house will become damp.

Features of roof construction

The most optimal roof design for a bathhouse made of foam concrete is a gable rafter. You can build it according to this scheme:

• Step 1. The mauerlat is laid on the longitudinal walls, and the timber must be at least 18 cm thick. It must be secured with special anchor bolts.
• Step 2. A rafter template should be made on the ground in advance. To do this, two boards are connected at the edges so that you get scissors with nails as fastenings. The free edges of the boards must be placed on the foundation, the required roof slope must be selected and the angle must be fixed with a special crossbar. All this needs to be screwed on with self-tapping screws so that the angle is not broken.
• Step 3. Now you need to attach a template to the beams measuring 15x50 cm and mark with a pencil exactly how the corner will be cut.
• Step 4. After all the procedures done, you can cut the rafters according to the prepared template, fastening them with self-tapping screws, and at the crossing points, twisting three self-tapping screws for reliability.
• Step 5. The finished rafter frame must be carefully lifted onto the roof and installed. It is advisable to mark all junctions of the rafters with the Mauerlat by notching, overlays or metal brackets.

Step 6. The next rafter frame is made in the same way and installed in its place. After that, you need to stretch the cord between the frames and secure the rafter trusses with special supports that are placed at an angle. Step 7. All other rafter trusses are cut out according to the knurled pattern and attached to the roof in increments of 50 cm, checked with a regular cord

But it is important to do this so that the distance between the smoke channel and the rafter leg is at least 40 cm.

• Step 8. The sheathing is being prepared - for this, 10x40 cm boards will be used, which need to be secured to the rafters with ordinary self-tapping screws in increments - such that would be convenient for laying insulation.
• Step 9. A rough ceiling is made - from boards 25 mm thick, which are fixed between the rafters. On top of it you need to lay foam plastic 19 cm thick, and on top - the finished floor of the attic, made of the same boards. In this case, it is imperative to provide ventilation in the ceiling of the bathhouse by making two special holes.
• Step 10. Now you can cover the roof with roofing material, nail the ridge piece and make a galvanized steel collar around the chimney.

Insulation of the foundation.

Insulation of the foundation for a bathhouse.
Schematic representation of the insulation of the base of the bathhouse.

The foundation for a frame bath can freeze, therefore, it is insulated from the outside with various materials. Insulation is carried out before pouring concrete. Sheet material made of polystyrene foam or polystyrene is used; they are optimally suited for these purposes. Sheets with a thickness of 50 - 80 mm are used. with dimensions 600 x 1000 or 1000 x 1000 mm.

They are fastened on the outside of the pits (along the outer edge), between the reinforcement frame and the ground. The space is then completely filled with concrete to the required height. The insulation is of high quality and monolithic, durable. Expanded polystyrene does not absorb moisture. The service life of such materials is 25−30 years.

There is another option for carrying out external insulation by filling all the supports for the bathhouse with expanded clay around the perimeter: after all the concrete work, develop cavities around each concrete base and pour a cushion of expanded clay. Such insulation will require additional costs for excavating the soil and installing waterproofing.

Peculiarities

One of the interesting qualities of foam blocks is their resistance to fire. In many ways, this is what makes them suitable for construction in this case. But this material has both its pros and cons, which must be taken into account when adopting it:

• In terms of thermal protection, foam blocks are three times better than conventional bricks. They remain durable at high temperatures.
• They are safe in an environmental sense. They don't rot. Rodents do not show interest in them.
• They do not require treatment with antiseptic or anti-flammable agents.
• They weigh relatively little and are easy to saw, which makes them convenient for construction.
• Requires small financial costs for the installation of a building box.

This can lead to a decrease in its strength characteristics and, finally, to destruction. Therefore, additional efforts are required to prepare foam blocks for existence in conditions of high humidity.

When developing bathhouse projects, you need to take care of good ventilation, possible measures for forced ventilation in the building, as well as organizing the slope of the drains so that water drainage is reliable.

It is also necessary to keep in mind that if the project includes the use of foam blocks of twenty or thirty centimeters thick, you will not have to take additional efforts to insulate the building. And if the bathhouse is used only in the summer, in order to heat it without using too much firewood, blocks even ten centimeters thick will be enough.

During construction, the walls inside are covered with foil or special vapor barrier membranes.

To insulate the outside, the walls are covered with mineral wool. This material does not burn, is environmentally friendly, and does not contain mold. Another option is to cover the walls with polystyrene or foam plastic, reinforce them with mesh and cover them with special plaster that does not allow moisture to pass through, but only air.

Reinforcement.

Reinforcement of the foundation for a bathhouse.
Sketch of foundation reinforcement for a bathhouse.

Now let’s try to figure out how to make full reinforcement and pour concrete pillars under the bathhouse with our own hands, and consider how to arrange masonry from expanded clay concrete blocks. You can start knitting an armored belt right on the site. This will also require marking and calculation. A simple way to knit a spatial frame:

1. Draw two parallel lines, and then lay reinforcement cut to size along them and tie them together like a ladder. The edges of the transverse rods must extend 30 mm beyond the edge of the main trolls and rods. All workpieces are measured in advance and a preliminary calculation is made on the length and height of the workpieces as much as required.
2. Having installed the blanks in all the holes, they are tied together with knitting wire. First, the lower crossbars are knitted for ease of movement. Then the upper rods are attached.

If the holes are narrow, then the blanks are knitted completely. Then they are installed in the pits entirely, tying only the corners. Carry out reinforcement only with viscous reinforcement; the use of welding equipment is unacceptable.

Choosing a size and layout

An important preparatory stage is the selection of a suitable bathhouse design. On specialized forums and construction portals you can find a huge number of projects developed and already tested by someone.

If the size of the garden plot is small, then a bathhouse project in the form of a block extension to a garage or utility building may be a good option.

Bathhouses with an attic, built using this building material, are also of interest. After studying standard designs and recommendations from specialists, you can begin designing the future structure. Even when building a house, the owners of the site will learn everything about how groundwater flows. This information will also be useful when searching for a suitable place for a bathhouse. During the design process, the following factors must be taken into account: Correct location of the bathhouse on a personal plot; Coordination of building dimensions and internal layout; Creation of a project.

Foundation for heavy materials made of expanded clay concrete blocks and foam blocks.

Pouring the foundation for a bathhouse.
Concrete mixture for pouring the base of the bathhouse.

It is possible to make a reliable foundation for an ordinary bathhouse with your own hands only if you do not violate construction technology.

The frame is tied, the concrete is being prepared. The calculation of materials is carried out as follows: for the total cubic capacity of the foundation, take the ratio of materials: 12% cement, 25% sand, 45% crushed stone, the rest water and clay. For expanded clay concrete compositions, the filler (crushed stone) is divided equally with expanded clay.

The composition will be warm, but it requires the use of waterproofing materials. Before building a foundation for a bathhouse from such material, calculate the weight of the entire structure. It is suitable for a lightweight structure made of foam blocks, but for expanded clay concrete materials it must be strengthened. It is necessary to change the depth of the foundation, pour it 0.5 meters deeper, this applies to each monolithic pillar.

Interior wall decoration

A lot of questions arise with baths made of aerated concrete. Including interior decoration. We decided on the steam room - it definitely requires lining. In the sink, it is more advisable to lay tiles on the walls.

What remains is mainly a rest room, sometimes a vestibule. Many people would like to have wooden walls. Since the humidity will still be high, you can attach a vapor barrier film to the walls. The sheathing will already go on top, and the finishing board will go to it.

It is better to leave a ventilation gap of about 2-3 cm under the lining

If a good ventilation system is thought out in the bathhouse, then you can completely do without a vapor barrier: aerated concrete both absorbs vapors and releases them. The main thing is to provide him with this opportunity: to organize air movement along the walls. This is done using lathing, which provides a gap of 2-3 cm between the finishing material and the wall. As soon as the lathing is filled vertically, air circulates from bottom to top without problems. So the lining is packed horizontally.

Laying blocks with your own hands.

How high should the foundation for a bathhouse be?
Scheme of a columnar foundation made of blocks for a bathhouse.

The foundation in this case consists of expanded clay concrete blocks standing on concrete pillars. To begin with, we mark the directions for the blocks by driving 4 pegs along the outer perimeter of the future bathhouse. Pull and level the cord to the height of approximately the first block. If you made basement formwork when pouring concrete, the masonry is carried out according to its dimensions, placing the blocks on concrete pads.

Lay two blocks at a time, filling the seam with mortar. Lay the next row perpendicularly, the edge of the expanded clay block or foam block should touch the cord. Blocks are mainly used to raise the height of concrete foundations above the ground or when the site has a large slope. Lay the required height and leave it to dry. During laying, place studs between the blocks to secure the frame.

Materials

Depending on what material is used in construction, how functional and durable it will be.

Careful attention should be paid to the time at which the blocks were made. The required strength of foam blocks is established after 28 days from the time of their manufacture

Accordingly, the use of blocks that have not passed the curing period is not recommended.

There are several factors to consider.

It is advisable to purchase products from trusted companies that value their authority. These enterprises conduct laboratory tests of their products and subsequently sell them, accompanied by appropriate quality certificates. The cost of purchased materials should not differ significantly from the market average

Otherwise, you should find out the reason for the discount so as not to purchase low-quality material. Pay attention to the tightness of the packaging and storage conditions in a dry place.

It is also advisable to conduct a visual inspection of the purchased material; in this case, you need to determine what the pore structure of the blocks is; this is clearly visible on the split block. A high-quality material has the same internal and external surfaces, while the pores are isolated and small in size. If the pores are connected, then the foam blocks are hygroscopic; with a large pore size, the strength of the product is reduced.

You need to buy the material in gray color, which complies with GOST 25485-89; if the color is light, this may indicate a violation of proportions and a decrease in quality. It is also necessary to check whether the purchased products are of the correct shape. To do this, two or three sides are joined and the presence of gaps between them is checked. If there are gaps, then increased consumption of adhesive mass will be required.

You can calculate the required amount of material for construction yourself. To do this, you will need data on the dimensions of the future bathhouse and the unit dimensions of the applicable material.

To calculate the total number of foam blocks, first calculate the number of blocks in the wall. The width of the wall is divided by the size of the length of the block, the height of the bathhouse is divided by the size of the height of the foam block, then both results are multiplied. Based on the result obtained, the perimeter is calculated. Accordingly, the number of foam blocks in the partitions is calculated. Next, you need to calculate how many foam blocks contain window and door openings and openings for the stove, subtract them from the total result, all walls and partitions. This way the exact amount of material needed to build a bathhouse is determined.

Separate calculations are made of the required number of beams for rafters and floors, plywood, Mauerlat, fasteners, necessary insulating and finishing materials.

The foam block can always be replaced with a gas block, as evidenced by reviews from builders. The main thing is that the thickness of the material is chosen correctly. Also, do not forget to insulate the building.

Construction of a load-bearing structure for lightweight materials.

Slab foundation for a bathhouse.
Sketch of a slab base for a bathhouse.

The weight of foam blocks is small, up to 24 kg, with dimensions of 200 x 300 x 600 mm, unlike expanded clay concrete. We calculate the foundation slab differently than for a pillar foundation. In this case, the entire structure will lie on the slab, transferring all loads to the ground evenly, making it stronger. The construction of a slab (slab version of the foundation) is easier to do than the pillar version, but for a log building it will also work. Depth is not needed for a monolithic surface foundation 1-1.5 meters high; a 40-50 cm deepening into the ground along the entire plane or perimeter is enough, it depends on the configuration of the log house.

The height of the above-ground part of the concrete slab is 10−15 cm. When poured, a monolithic layer (slab) is obtained that carries the entire frame, evenly distributing the load from the building onto the ground. The slab option is suitable both for medium-weight buildings and for structures made of foam blocks, foam concrete blocks; on it you can build a bathhouse from sleepers, build a log house; there are many options for using slab technology, as many as are necessary for high-quality construction of buildings.

The slab foundation for the construction of walls made of foam blocks is arranged as follows:

1. Markings are made for the slab, the building is taken in width and length, but with a margin of 800-100 mm. It would be correct to lay only a slab around the perimeter under the bathhouse, and fill everything inside with clay when finished.
2. The soil is removed to a depth of 400 mm, the pit is filled with sand, 200 mm thick. For foam blocks this pillow is enough. Now we compact it around the perimeter, there should be no gaps. Although the frame is not heavy, the slab must work over the entire plane; the depth here is not as important as the uniform compaction of the soil and sand.
3. Now the formwork is placed around the future foundation, the height of the board is selected according to the protruding part, in this case 150 mm.
4. Cards are knitted from 12mm reinforcement, with a cell size of 300×300, laid on a prepared site, having previously placed plastic distances, or spilled small nickels from the solution. After reinforcement, you can pour the solution. Such a foundation does not dry for long, 7-12 days.

Tip: In summer, sand dries quickly; before pouring concrete, moisten it with water.

Let's consider these “calculations and logic” in reality

There is no clear text in the regulations that allows or prohibits whether to build a foundation for a house from foam concrete. Below are the methods used by proponents of this material.

Citation of normative documents

Example:

“SNiP No. 31-02 - the foundation must correspond to the calculated strength values.”

Objection.

SNiP is a collection of norms and rules that are closely related to each other. The above quote means that ALL calculations must be in accordance with each other. You cannot take one indicator and rely only on it.

Proof.

Screenshot SNiP 52-01-2003

An example of “pull by the ears” based on one parameter - a duvet retains heat better than foam concrete. Let's build a foundation of fluff.

Allegedly “calculation” of the load

Carry out a “calculation” of the load in the style described below. For the foundation, it is recommended to use foam concrete, which has higher strength indicators than the grade used for walls.

Characteristics of foam concrete

As you can see, the maximum strength of foam concrete is 9.7 MPa = 97 kgf/cm2. Grade M100, mentioned in SNiP II-22-81* - 98 kgf/cm2. Everything fits together.

For the load-bearing walls of a two-story house, blocks of the D600-D800 brand will be used.

Weight and dimensions of foam concrete blocks

So:

• The average weight of one block will be 27.2 kg.
• One linear meter of wall will take 1000/600 = 1.6 blocks.
• With a height of each floor of 3m, a 6-meter wall will require 6000/300=20 blocks.
• Just for 1m.p. walls will need 20 X 1.6 = 32 blocks X 27.2 kg = 870 kg.
• In addition to load-bearing walls, the house also has partitions. Their thickness and density are smaller, but their area is always larger. In addition, all walls will have plaster.
• The resulting figure needs to be doubled. We get 870X2=1740 kg.
• With a block thickness of 200 mm, the mass of these walls will be distributed over an area of ​​100 cm X 20 cm = 2,000 cm2. Divide: 1740/2000 = 0.87 kgf/m2.
• The strength of foam concrete, 97 kgf/cm2, is 110 times higher! We’ll also reinforce it!

New walls cracked

Logical chain

They say that if the bottom row of the wall can be made of foam concrete, then the top row of the foundation can be the same, further along the chain.

A building and its foundation are two structures. Different forces act on the foundation and the building.

• Walls always press vertically on the base.
• The foundation distributes this load across the ground in many directions.
• Freezing soil presses on the foundation. In this case, freezing occurs only from the outside. The interior of the soil remains soft and does not provide support.
• Under certain places of the foundation, support may be lost due to soil washout.

“The house stands on a foundation” - this is how the sentence sounds correctly. Linking these two structures into one is incorrect, both from an architectural point of view and according to the laws of the Russian language.

Fight against shortcomings

A disadvantage of foam concrete is often recognized as a high degree of moisture absorption. As a method of dealing with the problem, it is proposed to make waterproofing.

The ability of foam concrete to absorb moisture

As you can see in the photo, foam concrete absorbs moisture very well. Being underground, any material is influenced by a huge number of factors. High-quality waterproofing with a 100% guarantee of protection will cost so much that the price of a foundation made of foam concrete blocks will no longer be attractive for the overall budget.

Protection of foam concrete on walls. What should it be like in the ground?

Negative examples of work performed

They claim that in the photo and video in this article they are building a foundation for a house from foam concrete. There are also step-by-step instructions on how to do this work yourself.

Of course, only with your own hands, because no design organization will undertake this! They will then have to bear the consequences. Here are some examples of such propaganda.

In fact, the photo shows not foam blocks, but FBS foundation blocks!

The indicated block length is 2400 mm - this is the standard length of the FBS block, which is made either from heavy concrete or dense expanded clay concrete. There are no foam concrete blocks of this size.

Foam block sizes

Tire foundation.

Foundation tires for a bathhouse.
The use of tires for foundation construction.

You can build a unique and at the same time strong foundation with your own hands from car tires. This is an economical option for a foundation for a wooden building made of logs or sleepers. The method for laying out the elements is as follows: markings are made for the contour of the bathhouse. Then the top layer of earth is removed along the entire perimeter, 15 cm deep and 50 cm wide. The space is filled with crushed stone and sand mixed in a 1:1 ratio. The pillow is compacted under the tires using a manual tamper.

The required number of tires is prepared, about 20-25 pieces of the same size and height (it all depends on the size of the tires and the bath). A perimeter of tires is laid out so that they lie tightly to each other.

Now we insert the threaded studs and tie them to the reinforcement threaded through the tires. We will attach a load-bearing structure made of sleepers and timber to them. The depth of the studs should be the entire thickness of the tires. The height of such anchors must be at least 250 mm so that the supporting beam for the log house or sleepers can be screwed on.

It is advisable to extend the reinforcement along the entire perimeter and diagonally, and then fill the tire space itself. Reinforcement can be carried out directly through the body of the tires by drilling holes and threading the reinforcement through the entire perimeter, so there is no need to tie the outside with a channel or angle.

You can make a set of blocks from tires and bury them directly into the ground. At the same time, the cost of construction will be significantly reduced; there is no need to cast a large slab to build a building from foam blocks or expanded clay concrete blocks. The construction of load-bearing elements from tires is one of the cheapest and simplest options, which is not inferior in quality to slab ones. This is an ideal foundation for a bathhouse made of timber, sleepers or for a solid wooden house (log house).

You can use a block version of the foundation made of tires, where the marking is carried out in the same way as in other cases, but you do not need any pipes, piles, concrete blocks, and expensive reinforcement.

A set of tires (4-5 pieces), placed on top of each other, will serve as a support for the log house or sleepers, instead of pipes and formwork. The construction time for such supports is minimal, the tire foundation dries quickly, since there is not a large volume of concrete in the ground, and within a couple of days further installation of a frame bathhouse or the construction of a wooden frame can be carried out.

Project

Just as for any construction, before you start building a bathhouse, you need to choose a location, carefully plan, select and calculate the necessary material. Also find out what the roof will be like, for example, pitched.

It is advisable to immediately imagine what you want to see in the layout of your bathhouse. In the classic version, the drawings of almost all baths include a steam room and a sink; a relaxation room is also desirable. In different cases, areas are distributed according to emerging requests. There may be options with a large steam room and a small sink, also with reverse distribution, a large relaxation room is possible and many other options.

Choosing the appropriate option will not be difficult. Each person has his own idea of ​​the functionality, proper use and organization of the premises of the building being built.

Particular attention should be paid to the construction of the vestibule if you plan to use the bathhouse for its intended purpose in winter

Also, the location of the doors is of no small importance; they must be planned so as not to take up too much space.

The stove must be selected taking into account the volume of the steam room, not forgetting that it is usually heated from the dressing room, therefore, part of the heat is spent on heating it. Based on these parameters, the furnace power is selected.

Currently, the bathhouse serves not only for washing, it is often used for emotional and psychological relief. Based on the requirements, a construction project is selected and implemented.

It may include not only the classic set: steam room, wash room, locker room, but it may also include the premises of a relaxation room, terrace, attic, swimming pool.

The most economical option would be to implement a project to build a bathhouse with three rooms.

There are a great variety of bathhouse designs, the most common of which are those where the rest room is combined with a locker room. At the same time, it is advisable to make it larger than other rooms, due to the placement of the necessary furniture in it.

Plans for bathhouses with terraces are very common. The terraces are equipped with the necessary furniture in the form of chairs and tables, barbecues and barbecue ovens are installed. The building is built under a single roof and has an appropriate design. Instead of a terrace, you can add, for example, a garage or another extension. The original idea is a country house combined with a bathhouse building.

Quite often, an attic is built as a second or third floor. This two-story building can be used as living or guest rooms or for relaxation after procedures. Such structures can also be one-story. The most commonly used sizes are 6 by 4, 3 by 5, and 6x6 meters.

You need to approach the selection of a construction site with all responsibility. The site must comply with all fire safety rules and the requirements of SNiP 30-02-97.

Based on these requirements, the building must be located at a distance of one meter from the fence, while the distance to the neighboring house must be at least eight meters, including five meters to the border of the site.

Repair of wooden base.

The height of the foundation above the ground for a bathhouse.
Scheme of one type of base for a bathhouse made of blocks.

Sometimes the foundation for a bathhouse is prepared from thick timber, concreted directly into the ground, and sometimes a monolithic version is installed. You need to know some little things before you properly repair the foundation of a bathhouse or build a new foundation for a bathhouse with your own hands:

1. For example, a wooden structure made from sleepers or a log frame is tightened from the outside with brackets in places where they settle. You can calculate how to tighten the frame, how many staples are needed. With other foundations it’s a little more complicated. You need to know how long it takes for the concrete itself to dry, and only then install the frame or beams. If the load-bearing blocks burst during installation and their height is small, you can add a reinforcing layer of concrete around the blocks, filling in all the cracks formed in the column.
2. By deciding to make the foundation of the bathhouse yourself, you will not only save a lot of money, but also get a good experience. It’s not difficult to build a monolithic or any other foundation with your own hands; you just need to go through all the stages of construction one by one and not violate the technology.
3. Make the correct calculations, markings for construction, soil development, reinforcement, and insulation. Do all necessary waterproofing work. It would be a good idea to consult with builders (developers) who have been building this type of foundation for a long time and have good experience.

Decide what material to build the foundation from, logs, sleepers, what the height of the building will be, how many sleepers or timber you need. Do you need a monolithic or concrete foundation for a log house, a wooden one made from sleepers, or a permanent foundation for a building made of foam blocks?

Knowing how to make a foundation for a bathhouse is not everything; you need to make preliminary calculations, and only then can you confidently begin its construction. It’s up to you to decide which foundation is best for a bathhouse, but it’s better to calculate how much materials you will need for this in advance and draw its structure. Having carried out a simple calculation, you can do everything perfectly, because you won’t need heavy equipment here, except perhaps a concrete mixer with a wooden chute and a concrete drain.

Exterior finishing

When decorating the outside of a building, in addition to making it beautiful, it is also necessary to carry out external hydro- and thermal insulation work.
Moreover, the principle of action here is the same as inside. Using a wooden frame, a heat-insulating layer is formed around the building box and waterproofing is created. Variations are possible in the use of materials that will directly determine the appearance of the bathhouse. It can be finished with plastic or metal siding. This is a very common way to give a building a nice, elegant look.

It is based on galvanized steel or aluminum. Such material always decorates the facade.

This finishing material is not afraid of temperature changes, does not rot and does not attract the attention of living creatures as food. Despite the fact that it is not classified as flammable, it can melt in a fire. It can be mounted on the wall either vertically or horizontally.

It also makes sense to use ceramic siding, which is made from fiber cement. He is immune to fire and frost. Externally imitates other materials. If you want to have a traditional-looking bathhouse, you can just choose siding that looks like brick, wood or stone. Those who have used this material in construction claim that it does not fade for a very long time. And such finishing will last up to thirty years.

Although no one forbids using real facing bricks to give a foam block bath a decent appearance. We must keep in mind that it will be more expensive, and it is much more difficult for a non-professional builder to cope with such work on his own.

Since the basement of the building gets very hot in the summer, and at other times gets wet from rain and snow, the use of this particular material in this case is not without reason.

If you don’t want to use siding for the exterior decoration of the bathhouse, you can use a special lining that imitates timber. Its width is fifteen centimeters with a thickness of one centimeter. In such “clothes” the bathhouse will look like a building built from real timber.

A material that imitates a cylindrical beam is a blockhouse. This is a natural material that goes through a drying stage even at the manufacturing stage. Its humidity level at the time of sale should be no more than twelve percent.

Thanks to any of these materials, a bathhouse created from gray foam blocks will get a quite representative or even traditional look.

Terminology: bathhouse foundation height and depth.

The foundation for the building can be divided into parts: aboveground and underground.

The height of the foundation is considered to be that part of it that is located above the ground surface, and its value is determined by reference to this surface. The depth of placement is determined by that part of it that is located in the soil, and in this case it also means counting from the ground surface.

Height of the foundation for the bathhouse.

The main purpose of the height of the base is to prevent the bottom of the building from coming into contact with the soil. This is necessary to prevent undesirable consequences of a destructive nature, the causes of which may be: shrinkage of the building, moisture, etc.

The depth of the foundation for a bathhouse largely depends on the following factors: the weight of the building, the type of soil on which it is located.

The recess is also intended to protect the structure from negative impacts caused by certain features that appear when the soil freezes.

Useful video.

Watch the video, which talks about the depth to which the foundation should be laid, and explains the reasons for this choice.

Now let's look at the dependence of height and depth on the factors already mentioned.

How to calculate?

Now let's talk about how to calculate the dimensions of the foundation and calculate its dimensions. And in different cases, calculations will be made differently. For example, to calculate the volume of a strip base, you need to know such parameters as:

• length;
• height;
• width of the planned structure.

The width will depend mainly on the area of ​​the support, and is usually in the range of 450-500 mm. And the height of the structure for a building of 2 floors, as a rule, is about one and a half meters. The length in this case will be calculated as the perimeter of the base of the building.

For example, for a building 6 by 9 meters, where there is one load-bearing wall having a length of 7 meters, the perimeter will be 37 meters. It will be calculated in this way: (7+ (6+9) *2). With a foundation width of half a meter, 27.75 cubic meters of concrete solution will be required. This value was obtained as a result of the following actions: (0.5*37*1.5). This formula is universal and is suitable for houses with an area of ​​10x10 meters or any other.

If we talk about a slab foundation, then in this case the volume of the base is calculated taking into account the area of ​​the structure and the thickness of the slab itself. Usually its thickness is at the level of 15-18 centimeters. With a building area of ​​54 square meters, 972 cubic meters of concrete solution will be required.

Conclusion

We can say that the price of the material and the relative simplicity of the bathhouse construction technology will allow us to carry out all the necessary construction work independently in a short time.

And so that everything goes in accordance with the technical requirements and recommendations, you will find additional information on this topic in the video presented in this article.