The bathhouse, being a place with high humidity, is the most vulnerable and needs protection. True, with big reservations, because protective antiseptics are poisons, the use of which in a bathhouse is undesirable. But compromises are possible here too.
Below we will analyze the types and uses of antiseptics for baths and saunas, and also conduct our own research on which bath antiseptic is better to use inside and which outside.
Types of bath antiseptics by purpose
First you need to find out what threats to the tree may arise during its construction operation. It can rot and be attacked by insects and rodents. This limits possible harm from wildlife. Of course, wood can also burn, but here we will not touch on protecting it from fire.
Let's start with rotting. The tree itself consists of compounds that would be very difficult to decompose on their own. Therefore, nature helps forests by providing saprophytic organisms. These are fungi and bacteria that process dead wood. In addition, there are fungi that can settle on living trees - these are xylotrophs.
Rotting is the process of destruction of wood by fungi (and, partly, bacteria). But there are fungi that do not destroy wood, but are harmful to humans - these are molds. The third, least harmful type of fungi associated with wood are staining fungi, such as blue fungi.
IMPORTANT! Antiseptics that fight fungi are called fungicides. But we have listed three varieties of harmful mushrooms. And there is no fungicide that is universal against them all. Moreover, even in a separate category, a fungicide substance may be powerless against something.
Complex formulations work best. It is better to check their purpose with the seller or even the manufacturer. Antiseptics for baths intended to combat wood-boring insects are usually specially labeled, for example, “Anti-Bug.” The correct name for such antiseptics is insecticides.
Well, it’s unlikely that poisons for rats and other rodents should be called “antiseptics”; they are classified in a separate category.
The next important distinction must be made regarding the time of use of antiseptics - whether this is done preventively (preventatively), for prophylactic purposes, or when the pest has already actively manifested itself.
From our point of view, the preventive There is little information about what actually happens. Universal compounds have not yet been invented (more precisely, those that really kill everything are extremely harmful for humans too), and the rest have specifics that there is simply nowhere to find out about. The composition is rarely written on the label. We only met him on very expensive products.
Antiseptic 2.7 l. Saunasuoya soup for protection against moisture and dirt. Banka Photos
Often, preventative wood protection products are included in paint and varnish coatings, in particular primers for glazes and other coatings. This looks like a reasonable measure, but for some reason no one specifies what types of fungi this or that antiseptic fights.
It is not possible to correct this situation. We were able to more or less reliably find out the compositions and areas of application for antiseptic fungicides used as industrial impregnations - we are talking about the so-called “impregnated wood”. In this article you will find a list of the classes of substances and who they are most effective against.
But don’t be fooled - on the impregnated wood market you will only find “Tanalit” and “Senezh”, and in exceptional cases something else.
As for preventive antiseptics for self-application, there is no clarity here. All that remains is to rely on the manufacturer, whose task was to provide protection against the most common types of fungi.
In this sense, we never cease to be surprised that on any jar of antiseptic you can read that its contents have an antimicrobial effect. Here the manufacturer himself is confusing something - we humans are afraid of germs. And wood needs protection from fungi. And ordinary bleach, ethyl alcohol, and hydrogen peroxide are quite capable of killing microbes that are harmful to us. Well, you can hang a bactericidal lamp if you really want to get rid of them. But what do wood processing products have to do with it???
IMPORTANT! In general, it is necessary to oblige manufacturers to write the composition and write against what kind of living creatures this composition works. Because now you are buying something unknown and with an unpredictable effect.
Those antiseptics that are designed to combat an already manifested pest are much more precise in their action. If you need to get rid of blue stains, they will sell you bleach. If it is for mold , use some preparation based on boron compounds. If from rot... We suspect that most likely they will sell you some kind of metal-azole complex, and the metal there will be copper. It’s just that triazoles and metal-azole complexes are most common; they are effective, but not against all types of rot.
If you think about it, a possible solution for prevention is to buy antiseptics to combat an already manifested problem, and apply them in advance. At least you will be sure that you did not waste your money and time.
BY THE WAY! For those who are interested in what they are dealing with, we recommend the book “Wood Rot, Its Causes and Control Measures.” Develop, an informed buyer will eventually force the market to take greater responsibility for products!
It should also be mentioned that antiseptics for a sauna or bath will be divided into internal and external, as well as water-soluble and organic-based (insoluble in water). But more on this below.
What to look for when choosing an antiseptic
The first question that arises for everyone who needs to buy a wood preservative is: which one is better to choose? There is no universal answer, therefore, when evaluating products and choosing the right product for your bath, pay attention to several important points
Composition - an antiseptic must include components with a wide spectrum of action: protection against mold, fungi, bacteria, insects, moisture and fire. “Field of activity” - decide for what work the antiseptic will be used - external, internal or both. Safety - not all chemical components of antiseptics are pleasant and beneficial for humans, therefore, for interior work, you should choose compositions with a minimum amount of such components - water-based impregnations. Air permeability – antiseptics should not reduce the breathability of wood. Price – good antiseptics for wood cannot be cheap, since they have many important and complex tasks. Manufacturer - since the antiseptic will be used in a bathhouse - a place that, among other things, performs health functions - the product must be of high quality, so pay attention only to time-tested manufacturers. Application method - consider how the antiseptic is applied to the surface and how it will be more convenient for you to work.
Advice. When purchasing water-soluble antiseptics, be sure to find out which finishes they are most compatible with.
How to antisepticize outside
For external protection , you can use the strongest means without worrying that they may affect your health. Firstly, if they are certified, then they meet modern requirements for the hazard class for people, and they have become significantly stricter since the beginning of the century. Secondly, external use in any case reduces contact with the evaporating (everything evaporates, just at different rates) antiseptic.
So, an antiseptic for a bath outside can be either industrially applied or independently. Water-soluble or organic-based (i.e., washable or non-washable). As part of the soil or independently.
Prosept Eco Ultra antiseptic is non-washable. Photo City of Masters
The use of such a composition outside is limited to the façade and structural details.
What to give preference to? Industrial processing is deeper than self-processing, so it is better to choose an antiseptic for a bath, which is pumped into wood under high pressure in an autoclave.
If this is not possible, then apply it yourself, choosing non-washable compounds for the facade and hidden parts (joists, beams, etc.) - oil-based, organic solvent-based. After application, do not forget to cover it all with a protective layer of varnish or paint.
ADVICE! Even those who have chosen impregnated wood should cover it with a layer of varnish, preferably with a UV filter - this will protect the wood from environmental influences (not only fungi spoil the wood, but also water freezing in the pores, tearing it apart).
Even more details about all types of coatings used in bathhouses outside can be found here.
Method of application
Important: before starting the process, the floor must be well dried;
Protective agents are applied in layers. Be sure to carefully process cuts, edges and damaged areas.
Important: processing and drying is carried out at warm temperatures and low humidity;
If your boards have already begun to be chewed by wood bugs, then disinfect them with special means before applying water-repellent impregnation.
Important: when processing, do not limit yourself to the gnawed holes, cover the area in and around them. Advice: carefully read and follow the instructions given by the manufacturer!
Advice: carefully read and follow the instructions given by the manufacturer!
It’s a shame if the purchased product and the time spent on its use go down the drain; because of simple laziness, you read the text on the package.
Remember, a good (in terms of the manufacturer and correct use) antiseptic can increase the “vitality” of the wooden floor of your bathhouse, up to 10 years.
Anecdote about gender. “A good walk is when you wake up on the floor and see that you’ve been circled with chalk.”
Dear reader, the topic that I tried to open up is quite relevant and has different points of view. One thing is unshakable - the bathhouse makes us forget or distract ourselves from everyday worries, gray work days, the electrified atmosphere of offices and family troubles
This means you should pay attention to your favorite leisure time.
Subscribe, read and introduce your friends to the blog. We sincerely try to make it alive and relevant. Good luck!
Wisdom Quote: To be a hero also means to fight against the all-powerful fate.
How to antisepticize inside
The antiseptic for wood in the bathhouse inside differs from the outside only in less aggressiveness. The substances themselves will be the same, but they will be dissolved in water and therefore fundamentally washed out. The latter means the need for periodic updating.
Treating the bathhouse with an antiseptic inside can be done freely in all rooms except the steam room. Only in a steam room can high temperature affect the retention of the product in the thickness of the wood - most likely the antiseptic will evaporate, getting into the lungs of the steamers.
You can find more information about interior coatings at this link.
Which is better for floors, ceilings, walls
Wherever wood is used, in principle, it would be worth using an antiseptic. Fungal spores are constantly floating in the air, they are just waiting for the right conditions to germinate. Our task is not to create such conditions for them. Including making the wood inedible or at least simply tasteless to them.
What is the difference between an antiseptic for the floor in a bathhouse, for its walls and ceiling? In principle, except that the floor of all of the above will be the coldest and most distant from our respiratory organs.
You need to understand that it is the increase in temperature that makes volatile substances volatile - look in the refrigerator, cold borscht smells much weaker than heated one, because the smell comes from heated and separated particles. It’s the same with an antiseptic - where it’s colder, you can worry less about evaporation.
Antiseptic Zelest A-3 Standard 10 kg, suitable for interior and exterior work. Photo Pilomaterialy.rf
Well, the floor is, after all, a place that suffers more from water in a bathhouse than the ceiling itself. Therefore, it needs somewhat more protection.
What do you recommend? We have already said that the best wood is that which has been antisepticized industrially. But this is best used for beams and joists, as well as for subfloors. To clean the floor, you can treat the inside of the bathhouse with an antiseptic, which is included in the primer for varnish or paint.
ATTENTION! You can forget the rule regarding the floor in the steam room, because it is quite normal practice for the floors to be covered with the same yacht varnish, which is not afraid of frequent interaction with water. Before coating with this varnish, you can use an antiseptic, which is intended for the inside of a bathhouse.
However, you can get a complete picture of acceptable floor coverings from this article on our website. And here is material for those who are interested in learning more about floorboards.
The walls and ceiling can be treated in the same way, but avoiding the steam room. Still, do not forget that the antiseptic layer anywhere is intermediate between wood and varnish/paint. At the very least, it is highly desirable that it be intermediate.
Read about how to treat boards used for interior cladding here.
Additional criteria for selecting impregnations
Composition, purpose, functionality and form are not the entire list of criteria that need to be taken into account when choosing protective impregnations for baths and saunas
So, be sure to pay attention to the following additional factors:
- breathability - protective compounds should not in any way reduce the breathability of wood;
- compatibility - consider which finishing linings can be combined with this or that antiseptic;
- degree of slipping – antiseptics for bathhouse and sauna floors must have a minimum level of slipping to ensure safe movement;
- method of application - before purchasing impregnation, be sure to find out how it should be applied to wood, and evaluate whether this or that option is possible in your bathhouse or sauna;
Choose an impregnation based on the characteristics of your bath or sauna
cost and manufacturer - since protective impregnation performs a number of important functions and has a direct impact on the condition of the structure used for health procedures, buy products only from trusted manufacturers.
As you can see, protective impregnations for wood are presented in a fairly wide range: for external and internal use, water- and oil-based, different in functionality and shape
To make the right choice, do not neglect the properties of antiseptics and do not forget to correlate them with the characteristics of your bath or sauna - this is the only way you can find the ideal protection option specifically for your case
Wood processing inside the steam room and washing room
Let's start with the washing room. There is more water there and the temperature is lower than in the steam room. It would definitely be worth recommending an antiseptic. If there is no desire to cover everything with it except the benches - at least the floor and the perimeter half a meter high - water accumulates below, you need to make an effort to dry everything, and without this, rotting becomes more likely. Any suitable antiseptic for treating the inside of a bathhouse can be used to protect the washing area.
In a steam room, in our opinion, you can safely treat the floors and perimeter with an antiseptic at a low height. But only subject to subsequent treatment with either some water-based varnish for a steam room, or oil-based water-repellent impregnation Let us remind you that only washable antiseptics are used inside.
Water antiseptic for baths and saunas Neomid 200 Proff 1 l. suitable for washing. Photo by Leroy Merlin
In addition to the above, you can also safely use regular chlorine bleach or commercial chlorine-based antiseptics. Their main purpose is to combat staining fungi, but they can also be used for routine disinfection and bleaching of the darkened top layer of wood. You can simply sand darkened wood.
Usually in the steam room they try not to use any chemicals at all, and fight rot... with good ventilation, additional heating after drying procedures, rubber gaskets for the legs of the shelves, gaps between the floor and the lining. If nothing helps, and rot or mold still appears... Well, then you just need to replace the damaged one with a new one. In other words, the use of an antiseptic in a steam bath depends solely on your ideas about its harms and benefits.
Additionally, we recommend that you read the material in which we talk about impregnations for shelves.
Which one is good for a log house, and which one is good for lining
How does a log house differ from a lining? Thickness of wood. Therefore, the first thing to keep in mind is how deep the antiseptic will penetrate. Sufficient depth is achieved only with industrial impregnation. But does it make sense to build a bathhouse from impregnated logs? Of course not.
But the lower crowns, for example, would be very worth making from just such logs. Because they are the ones that usually rot, even from larch. It is enough to make only the very bottom crown with this impregnation.
Another standard place for rotting is the window sill beam. If desired, it would also be worth making it from treated logs.
The rest of the log house is processed as follows: everywhere on the outside, inside - everywhere except the steam room. The processing of the log itself is not mandatory. It's all up to you. In this case, as an antiseptic for a log bathhouse, those compounds are used that are intended for self-application.
Antiseptic BATH THINGS for baths and saunas, for external and internal work. Stroylandia Photos
Read more about timber and methods of processing it in this article.
As for the lining (! about linden lining in detail in a separate article), you need to distinguish where it is located - facade lining can be freely processed with everything that is intended for external processing, but about the internal one it’s worth thinking about again, because this material is easy It is replaceable, and due to its small thickness it is easy to dry.
Therefore, it is advisable to impregnate the lining in the bathhouse with an antiseptic only in the most vulnerable - this is the junction of the floor with the wall, corners that are poorly ventilated, and the legs of the shelves that get wet during the procedures. The rest of the space can be impregnated with oil or oil wax, which protect the wood from moisture saturation, thereby indirectly helping to protect against fungi - their mycelium develops successfully only in very moist and oxygenated wood.
More information about how you can process lining is here.
Door protection
In a sauna, as a rule, there are several rooms with different purposes. You can use a door to separate the washroom from the locker room. This element requires special care aimed at preserving its original appearance and extending its service life. For wooden panels, this requirement takes on special significance.
Doors purchased for saunas most often already have treatment against rotting. Therefore, additional impregnation from moisture is not required. Most often, canvases are painted.
How to paint the doors leading to the sink? The dye must meet the following requirements:
- protect the wood from the sauna temperature;
- extend service life;
- provide aesthetic appeal.
To paint the door, it is recommended to use special wood varnishes. They have the following advantages:
- high level of vapor permeability (similar to antiseptic treatment);
- the ability to repaint the surface;
- a wide selection of pigments that can highlight the natural texture of wood.
Often, a stain is used to treat a door made of natural wood, which also helps solve the problem of protecting the surface
It is important to remember that large imperfections are filled with a special compound. Its color is selected in accordance with the shade of the varnish, oil or stain used
For baths and saunas: which one is better to choose?
It is difficult nowadays to choose a good antiseptic for a bath. And mainly because you have to buy something with an unknown composition and scope. You have to focus solely on what the manufacturer wrote on the label. And this is more advertising than reference information. We analyzed what the manufacturers say and provided their statements with our own comments.
Now about the types of baths. Russian and Finnish should be distinguished according to two criteria - humidity and heat. water-soluble, that is, washable, can be used indoors . It is not difficult to draw conclusions from this.
Finnish version
A sauna is a very hot place and very well ventilated, but there is little water in it ( 5-15% during procedures). Therefore, the main requirement for an antiseptic for a sauna is that it must remain inside the wood at the operating temperatures of this bath. To prevent it from evaporating and decomposing, it is covered with a layer of varnish.
Antiseptic Prosept Sauna for baths and saunas concentrate 1:10 colorless 1 l. Photo Petrovich
All these technologies are best developed in the homeland of the sauna - in Finland. Since there are strict safety requirements , you can safely take what is produced by well-known companies in this country. And immediately in finished form - primer and varnish.
Russian variant
The Russian bath acts on the antiseptic not so much with heat as with humidity. Therefore, leaching occurs naturally. Again, this happens if the antiseptic layer is not protected. However, it is worth clarifying that in the bath everything is washed out slowly - the same impregnation with oil must be renewed once a year. So you need to be prepared for the update process.
We believe that all of these steam room varnishes can be used at floor level or slightly higher. High humidity is an aggressive environment for varnishes and paints, so you need to take either yacht varnishes, or paints that can be used in bathrooms , or the same Finnish products that they produce for saunas.
ATTENTION! You may find our guide article on painting a bathhouse useful, in which we consider many specific issues related to the protection of surfaces made of different materials used in a bathhouse.
You need to know about this!
There are many facts that are interesting and educational. For example, Finns are big fans of saunas. In this state, 2 million saunas have been built for every 5 million people. This is simply amazing! Even in a multi-storey building, where it would seem impractical to build a bathhouse, it is still installed in the area of the ground floor or in the basement.
Residents of Finland love their country, as well as its ecology. They put human health in the foreground, because in the sauna you can improve your health and strengthen your body as a whole. The Finns treat sauna premises with care; they have long used all kinds of chemicals, and the Russians have learned a lot from them, having adopted the experience of caring for wooden structures.
The best (or rather, famous) compositions
Now let's figure out what the market offers.
IMPORTANT! We went through the official websites of the manufacturers, and their lack of information about the composition is not at all in their favor.
The most important thing: keep in mind that you have to start from what is on the market, so it turns out that there are not so much “the best antiseptics for a bath”, but rather those that are well-known . There are indeed many manufacturers, but most of them are completely unknown and the composition is hidden, so it turns out to be a “pig in a poke”; there is no point in writing about them.
Let's start with the Finns. Our little research showed that it is only possible to buy a Finnish antiseptic for a sauna in the form of a primer for their own paint and varnish products for the sauna. In general, of course, it is more convenient to talk about companies; they usually produce several antiseptics for our purposes with a rather vague description of what they work against.
Tikkurila
Offers "protective acrylate compounds" such as Supi Arctic or Supi Saunasuoja . The annotation says that it contains an antiseptic component that protects (attention!) from mold. No other mushrooms are mentioned. Both products are aqueous solutions of acrylic dyes, which are truly safe for health. Both are intended exclusively for use in a Russian or Finnish steam bath.
Tikkurila Supi Saunavaha antiseptic for baths and saunas, colorless 0.9 l. Photo Petrovich
In addition, the company produces antiseptics for facades and interiors of residential premises. For example, Homeenpoisto is ordinary bleach, as in “Whiteness” (sodium hypochlorite solution). Used to combat mold or blue stains that have already developed. By the way, you can also use it in a steam room. For facades - Euro Eko Wood . This is a glazing antiseptic that fights fungi, mold and blue stains. I am glad that here they distinguish wood-destroying fungi from molds. The timber can be protected with Vinha covering antiseptic, but only against mold.
Teknos
Here you will find primer versions of antiseptics. For example, Woodex Aqua Base or Teknol Aqua 1410-01 are water-soluble, and there are also “penetrating” ones based on organic solvents (we said that this is only for facades) - these are Woodex Base and “Java”.
An advertisement from the manufacturer stated that the company's primer antiseptics fight all three types of fungi - staining, mold and rotting. What is most pleasing, of course, is that the same composition (!) in different concentrations fights both the first two and wood-destroying agents. Fantastic!
"Senezh"
“Senezh-Bio” also saves you from all types of mushrooms with one composition, plus it is also effective against insects. The manufacturer recommends using it indoors and outdoors, in residential and commercial buildings, claiming that the product is strong but safe for people and animals. The composition (like the Finns) is not indicated. From this category of “preservative antiseptics” there is also simply “Senezh”, “Senezh-Ultra” and “Senezh-Impra” . The latter is generally intended for impregnating wood, that is, it is powerful, but it is unlikely to be as effective when applied superficially... with a roller or brush.
Preservative antiseptic SENEZH 10 kg. Stroylandia Photos
“Senezh-Sauna” is even cooler. Fights all(!) types of fungi, as well as insects and... algae. Manufacturers have not forgotten about microbes - Senezh-Sauna also destroys them. Looks like some kind of ultimate weapon. At the same time, it is an analogue of Tikkurila products - this is also a water-based acrylate composition.
"Senezh-Insa" is an antiseptic mainly for fighting insects.
“Senezh-Tor” behaves best when protecting the ends of logs and beams.
"Senezh-Eurotrans" is an antiseptic that only fights blue stains and mold, and mainly when transporting logs and lumber.
"Senezh-Effo" - mainly as a bleach.
GOODHIM
An antiseptic is a ready-to-use aqueous solution intended for interior work. Antiseptic for baths and saunas has a high antibacterial effect, destroys pathogens of infectious diseases, and is used to protect wooden surfaces from the effects of insects, fungi and algae.
Sold in plastic containers with a capacity of 0.5 and 5 liters, the solution can withstand temperature changes and high humidity, does not change the color and appearance of wood products, and does not affect their characteristics, such as strength, adhesiveness and paintability. You can buy through the manufacturer's website.
Neomid
Antiseptic for baths and saunas NEOMID 200, 0.5 l., concentrate. Photo by Maxidom
The most popular brand of antiseptic for baths is Neomid 200 . This is truly a universal remedy. If the Finns somehow distinguish the products that can be used to cover shelves from the products for everything else, then here everything can be processed without exception.
What worries us personally is that it itself, that is, it turns out that mold is responsible for everything and besides it, no other mushroom stains or destroys wood? Since this is not true, the question arises: what does Neomid 200 actually fight against ? We would venture to guess that it is moldy and blue. As for rot, we’re not sure. The composition is described indirectly: “a synergistic mixture of biocides” is nothing at all.
For baths, Neomid also offers a special oil - “wood-protective for baths and saunas.” Again, it’s amazing - this oil protects against fungi and at the same time it can be applied to shelves (! Linden shelves require special attention), it is so harmless to humans.
"Neomid 100" is an insecticide aimed strictly against woodworms.
"Neomid 500" - bleach.
A series of hard-to-wash and generally non-washable antiseptics - “Neomid Eco”: Neomid Exra Eco, Neomid Base Eco, Neomid 440 Eco , etc. This is suitable for external protection.
And here is another example of using this manufacturer’s product against mold.
"North"
"Pirilax-Prime" - fire and bioprotection. We did not consider all products of this class; they are widely represented by both Senezh and Neomid. But since Pirilax is in demand, we decided to mention it. Used as a primer under paintwork materials. Protects against mold, blue stains, fire and insects.
“Nortex-Doctor” is suitable not only for wood, but also for concrete , and the range of biocidal effectiveness includes not only mold, but also wood-destroying fungi and wood-boring insects. The manufacturer is confident that its products can be used in baths. The technical specifications say that it complies with GOST against mold and wood-staining fungi. Therefore, it is unlikely to be effective against rot.
"Nortex-Disinfector" is a stronger version of the previous antiseptic. The main purpose is to fight mold, in addition - against blue stains, algae, beetles - on wood, stone, brick, and what is even more remarkable - inside and outside. The composition is, as usual, not specified.
RESULTS! In general, there are no products on the market with a clear composition that are effective primarily against house rot, but there is something that guarantees effectiveness against mold and blue stains, beetles and algae. Any of the above will be a good antiseptic for a bathhouse inside, if the task before it is not beyond its capabilities.
Antiseptic for the bathhouse Usadba "U-409": application, instructions
Inexpensive impregnation for wood with antiseptics Usadba "U-409" is intended for use in baths, saunas and other wet and residential areas where it is necessary to protect wood from moisture penetration and darkening. This composition prevents the wood from rotting; after treatment, wooden products are easier to clean.
Antiseptic and dirt-proof impregnation for wood in Yuan and Russian sauna U-409
Impregnation Usadba “U-409” creates a thin polymer water-repellent film that prevents surface contamination and allows the wood to “breathe.” The tannin inhibitor contained in the composition protects the wood from darkening over time and when exposed to high temperatures. Fungicidal and insecticidal additives prevent the formation and proliferation of fungi, bacteria, rot and mold on the surface of wood during storage and in finished structures.
Impregnation keeps the color and structure of the wood unchanged. Gives the surface protective water- and dirt-repellent properties for more than 5 years.
The composition is environmentally friendly, does not evaporate from the surface of the wood and therefore can be used in steam rooms and washing departments of baths and saunas.
Application
Main characteristics of antiseptic for baths Usadba U-409
Mix the composition thoroughly before use. Before treatment, the surface of the wood must be cleaned of dirt and dust, including wood.
The IMPREGNATOR can be applied with a brush, roller or spray, trying to distribute it evenly over the surface.
Processing should be carried out in one or two layers, with an interval between operations of at least 1 hour. Operate at air temperatures above +5°C. The final formation of protective properties occurs 3-5 days after application at air temperatures above +10°C.
Can be used on wooden surfaces previously treated with a preservative or antiseptic.
Average consumption: 80-150 g/m2
Drying: 1 hour
Use for treating all wooden surfaces in the bathhouse, except shelves. Sunbeds cannot be treated with this composition.
Compound
Water, acrylic latex, biocides, water-, dust-, and dirt-repellent agents, tannin inhibitor, functional additives.
Storage
Store the composition in a hermetically sealed container from the manufacturer, in a dry room at an air temperature of +5 to +300C. Shelf life: 3 years.
Containers and prices
Available packaged in plastic containers of 1 l, 2.5 l.
Price for 1 liter -3.6 $, for 2.5 liters - 12.5 $.
baniwood.ru>
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Processing inside: how to process - methods and technologies
How to treat a bathhouse with an antiseptic? There are three methods (minimum) suitable for these purposes. They will differ in the depth of impregnation. Well, let’s describe the fourth, the best, but requiring industrial equipment.
The simplest and most accessible method for everyone is to apply the solution to the surface of the wood using a roller or brush, or if you have one, use a spray bottle. This is done several times as the previous layer dries. The number of layers is usually specified by the manufacturer in the instructions. The penetration depth of the antiseptic is minimal - up to 5 mm, but more often 2-3.
Antiseptic (impregnated) edged board, pine. Photo Pilomaterialy.rf
The second method gives a slightly greater depth of impregnation and at the same time requires some equipment. For prepared (cleaned to wood) lumber, a “bath” is made - for example, it can be dug in the ground in the form of a trench of the required length and covered with polyethylene.
An antiseptic solution is poured into the bath, and the lumber is completely immersed in it for several days. The number of days depends partly on the type of wood. Let's say that spruce always needs more time to soak than pine.
The third method can also somehow be implemented on the site. To impregnate boards, for example, sand is soaked in antiseptic, and then stacks of prepared boards are layered with this sand. The stack of sand is covered with films and left for a couple of weeks. It is assumed that the film will protect the antiseptic from evaporation, and the wood will absorb it through osmosis.
The fourth method is beyond the capabilities of the owner of the site (for independent implementation). is already needed here . This is an industrial impregnation, which is called impregnation. The deepest, most effective. Lumber impregnated with a suitable antiseptic is sold everywhere, they are green or brown, a good manufacturer uses a product from Britain called “Tanalit” - it does not work only against one class of house rot - basidiomycetes, it resists everything else well.
Fire protection means for steel building structures and cable lines
Fire retardant coating and paints that increase the fire resistance of steel structures from 0.5 to 2.5 hours. Phoenix CE paint, which reduces the fire hazard of cable lines.
Range of fire protection means for steel building structures and cable lines:
| 1 | Fire retardant coating. 1st - 5th group of fire retardant efficiency for steel structures | OPV-1 |
| 2 | Fire retardant paint. Increasing the fire resistance of steel building structures from R30 to R90 | Defender M |
| 2 | Fire retardant paint. Increasing the fire resistance of steel building structures from R45 to R90 | Defender M Solvent |
| 2 | Fire retardant paint. Increasing the fire resistance of steel building structures from R30 to R90 | Phoenix STS |
| 2 | Fire retardant paint. Increasing the fire resistance of steel building structures from R30 to R90 | Phoenix STV |
| 3 | Fire retardant paint. Fire protection agent for cable lines | Phoenix SE |
Useful video
The video below advertises “Neomid 200”:
But Tikkurila made an advertising video that talks about what affects wood and how to deal with it - from products to application technology:
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Fire retardants for wood
Fire retardants or wood fire retardants are chemicals that protect wood and wood-based materials from exposure to fire.
Nomenclature of fire retardants:
| 1 | Fire retardant. 2nd group of fire retardant efficiency | MS(0-1) |
| 2 | Fire retardant. 1st group of fire retardant efficiency | |
| 3 | Fire retardant varnish. Fire protection and decorative finishing of wooden elements of premises | OZL-SK |
| 3 | Fire retardant transparent paint. Fire protection and decorative finishing of wooden building structures | Phoenix DP |
| 3 | Fire retardant white paint. Fire protection and decorative finishing of wooden building structures | Phoenix DB |
| 4 | Fire retardant white paint. Fire protection and decorative finishing of wooden building structures | Fire protection+ |
