How to treat (impregnate) logs in a bathhouse, inside and out?

There is a lot of information on our website, it is scattered under certain headings, but sometimes the content overlaps, and then we invite you to follow the link and get acquainted with more voluminous material on a given topic. This article is devoted to the questions of how to paint or treat the inside of a steam room in a bathhouse. Here you will find a brief summary of the matter, and details in the article on interior coatings for baths.

Classification of protective equipment

You can protect wood from negative influences using special impregnations with universal and multi-directional action.
Types of wood impregnations:

1. Antiseptics. Designed to protect wood from the harmful effects of fungus and insect pests. The mechanism for preventing excessive moisture is based on deep penetration of impregnation into the structure of the material. After the impregnating composition penetrates deep into the wood, the pores become clogged. This prevents moisture from penetrating into the material in the future.
2. Wood is known to be a flammable material. To protect against fire, special substances are produced - fire retardants. Such impregnations are used both inside and outside buildings.
3. Complex compositions. They have a universal purpose. They simultaneously perform several functions, including protecting the wood from mold, rot, harmful insects, and fire.

To correctly select an antiseptic drug, it is important to have an idea of ​​their types.

There are several types of antiseptics:

1. Easily washable. Such impregnations contain metal salts, which are gradually washed out under the influence of moisture. Such impregnations are best suited for dressing rooms and rest rooms, but not for steam rooms.
2. Difficult to wash out. These impregnations contain natural and synthetic oils. Suitable for external processing of log houses.
3. Short action. Such impregnations are quickly absorbed and are best adapted to high humidity and high temperatures. In addition to mold, short-acting impregnations protect against rot and bark beetles.

Some impregnations are available in a colorless version, but most formulations contain pigments that give the material a given shade. The use of bright impregnations makes the work easier, since the treated areas become visible and there is less chance of missing some area.

The advantage of colorless antiseptics is the preservation of the natural color of the wood. At the same time, it is recommended to work on such wood with a brush rather than a sprayer, since in this case it is easier to control the areas of the work done.

If you don’t have a professional tool for processing logs at hand, you can use proven folk methods. One of the most famous folk remedies is copper sulfate (copper sulfate). Vitriol is affordable and effective. However, copper sulfate is not recommended for indoor use due to its toxicity.

Treatment of a log bathhouse with copper sulfate is carried out using the following tool:

• brushes;
• brushes with stiff bristles;
• rubber gloves, thick clothing, a respirator or gas mask.

Vitriol is applied as follows:

1. The cleaned surface is thoroughly dried.
2. Vitriol is applied to a wooden surface and rubbed well into it.
3. After drying the material, you need to apply another 1 to 4 layers of copper sulfate.

Every few years the wood needs to be re-impregnated. Protected wood is not afraid of high humidity, rot, mold and insect pests. You just need to take the work responsibly, spare no time, effort and expense. Then the bathhouse will serve for many decades.

A wider range of domestic and imported products are produced for processing polished surfaces. But not all of them can be used for a residential building, since some of them are not safe. And the price-quality ratio is not always indicative.

After sanding, the walls of the house need to be coated with the following compounds:

1. Antiseptics (they prevent the development of microorganisms and fungi).
2. Glazing compositions (give a beautiful appearance to the walls).
3. Fire retardants (increase the fire resistance of wood).

The main purpose of this treatment is protective. And modern treatments can emphasize the natural texture of the log wood or tint it. Of course, you can apply simple facade paint to the primer, but this way the wood texture will not be visible.

Initially, a primer antiseptic is applied to the sanded surface. After this, a coloring or bleaching antiseptic is used. The third layer can be coated with fire retardants.

To paint the log house, use a brush or spray gun. If the house is made of logs with an uneven rounded surface of the logs, then it is easier to cover it with a brush. Building a house from laminated veneer lumber with a flat surface involves the use of a spray gun.

It is best to prime the walls of the house with antiseptics from Tikurill, for example Valtti Pohjuste. The average cost of this is from 2,500 to 3,000 rubles. for a 9 liter container. Valtti Pohjuste from Tikkurila is a deep penetration antiseptic that has good characteristics and user reviews.

Russian Neomid 440 has also proven itself. It penetrates the wood fibers of the log house and protects against all microorganisms known to science. Sold in concentrated form, separately for exterior painting. Cost of Neomid 440 from 1,200 rubles. for 10 liters.

To emphasize the woody texture of the log house, it is good to paint it with Valtti Color glazing compound from the same Tikkurila. The consumption of this composition is low, up to 9-10 m2 per liter of product.

The manufacturer offers it in 40 different shades, and is colorless. Price on average from 280 rubles/liter. Domestic Neomid Bio Color is considered a good alternative to Ticurillo, but has fewer shades. It is produced on a water basis, so the product is considered environmentally friendly. Cost from 130 rub./liter.

To dilute any of the compositions, white alcohol is used, which is also suitable for washing tools after painting.

Finnish manufacturers Teknos have proven themselves well. Among their line, I would like to note the water-based antiseptic Teknol Aqua 1410-01. But all water-based antiseptics should not be left uncoated with another composition for more than 5-6 months.

Effective methods of control

The process of removing fungus is labor-intensive. Various methods and means are used to combat mold. Stores offer a large number of chemical compounds that, when carefully processed, can destroy fungal spores.

Mold cleaning

Chemicals

The fight after detection is carried out using:

1. Substances containing chlorine. The coating is cleaned of fungus. Some substances bleach wood materials. “Senezh” and “Rime” are considered effective. The internal surface of the bathhouse is carefully processed. In case of residual manifestations of mold, the procedure is repeated until the enemy completely disappears.
2. Sulfur. The substance is ignited in a room that is previously protected from oxygen. The consumption of sulfur used is 200 grams of substance per 100 m3. To ensure that the cleansing process is safe for those around the building, the substance used is placed in a metal container. After igniting the substance, the room must be left, since sulfur vapors are harmful to humans. Returning to the steam room is permissible after nine hours. Quicklime is used to purify the air.
3. Iron sulfate. The substance is mixed with table salt and potassium alum. Proportion in grams: 25:20:45. The mixture is poured with a liter of water. The composition destroys mold. After a month, the treatment should be repeated.
4. Specialized products sold in hardware stores. The most effective are Metas-bio, Ceresit, Dufa, Anti-mold, Acrylit.

Mechanical cleaning is also acceptable. To eliminate fungus, you can use a spatula, sandpaper, drill brush, grinder, or iron brush. Before processing, you need to check the degree of decay of the wood. If there is a superficial lesion, treatment will help. If the wood is severely rotten, then mechanical cleaning will be useless.

Folk remedies

Folk remedies made from available substances in everyday life of every housewife help to fight the manifestation of mold:

1. Vinegar. The smell is acrid, unpleasant. The substance is weakly acidic, but at the same time effectively destroys mold spores. Processing does not take much time.
2. Soda. Before treatment, the substance is mixed with water to eliminate the risk of scratches. Baking soda is odorless and does not form harmful fumes at high temperatures. Does not require rinsing after treatment. The remaining substance has an antibacterial effect and prevents the re-formation of fungus.
3. White. The product is effective only on a small number of affected areas. Suitable for use on surfaces made of wood, brick, and concrete.
4. Hydrogen peroxide. The substance is effective even with extensive mold growth. Peroxide is able to remove fungus and protect the surface from re-formation of infection. The substance does not emit harmful fumes.

Antiseptics

Impregnations and antiseptics intended for treating bath surfaces differ in their properties and method of application. Some types are used for application to the external surface. Protect from moisture, ultraviolet radiation, dust, wind. Others are intended for interior treatment of premises. Resistant to high temperatures and high humidity. Antiseptics also protect against fire. The components contained inside the product reduce the risk of wood fire.

Special impregnations for baths can withstand high humidity and excessive temperature. The composition protects the wood from darkening. Impregnation promotes the formation of a water-repellent layer that protects against dirt. The product does not interfere with air penetration.

The solution used for treatment must be thoroughly mixed. Clean the surface and treat with the compound. When processing, you should use a brush, roller, or spray. The mixture must be applied evenly. The procedure is repeated twice with an interval of sixty minutes.

There are different types of antiseptics:

1. Soluble in water. Dry powders, aqueous solutions. Safe for humans.
2. Water repellent. Deep penetration. They have a strong odor. Can be applied in a well-ventilated place.
3. Oil based. It is allowed to process wood during production and the preparatory stage of installation. Create a protective layer.
4. Contains a solvent. Chemically aggressive substances that are harmful to health.
5. Mixed formulations. Use according to instructions.

Tools and clothing

To begin with, it is important to choose the right grinding tool. Often, to carry out this procedure, a grinder with a special attachment or a special grinder is used. A lightweight model with a comfortable handle, smooth speed adjustment and rear air intake is ideal. It is more convenient to work with two machines: one with coarse, the second with fine abrasive.

As for abrasive attachments, it is preferable to choose plastic ones. They, unlike rubber ones, do not leave black marks on the wood upon accidental contact. Remember that frequently changing attachments and using the same tool can lead to overheating.

Initial grinding is carried out with discs with a grain size of 40-60. It is enough for about 4 meters of log processing. If the log house is made of coniferous wood, then it will become greasy with resin and dust. This will lead to a decrease in performance characteristics, which means it will reduce the quality of work and increase the load on the tool. Therefore, there is no need to skimp on abrasives. Secondary processing is carried out with a disk with a grain size of 100-120.

Please note that to sand rounded logs you need to use an eccentric sander. The grinder is suitable for processing timber. It is characterized by high power, and therefore can damage the wood when pressed intensely. The sander blocks the disc when pressing hard.

You can read about the bathhouse itself in my previous article How they built a bathhouse for me and in the same article there are photographs.

I was sanding logs for the first time in my life; I had never done such work before. Therefore, professionals are asked to be understanding towards the beginner. So. The grinding work inside the bathhouse took me exactly 5 days (3*4 meter bathhouse). He worked alone, from morning until late evening.

To be honest, I didn’t expect that it would take so much time, it seemed like I did a quick job with an angle grinder and that’s it. Yeah, naive, no matter how wrong it is

The following tools were used for the work: - Angle grinder (or grinder in our opinion); - Flap discs (end grinding flap wheel); - Brush with iron bristles; - Chisel or knife; - Impregnation for a wax bath (for use inside baths) brush; - A stable and reliable bench, stool; - Arms, legs, head - no matter how you look at it, there’s nowhere without it. I’ll try to tell you more about the tools during the course of the article.

You should approach your clothes with special attention, because... work is carried out indoors, there is fine and abundant dust. I have a separate set of clothes for such work. - Jeans, soft and strong. You have to work in different positions, standing, sitting, kneeling, and lying down. Thank God, at least I haven’t had to do the splits yet - The jacket is strong, made of dense material.

Since you cannot use a bathhouse during the polishing period. I decided to carry out my work without being distracted by other matters. I forgot to mention panties and socks. No matter how you look at it, they also absorb dust. Therefore my algorithm was as follows. In the morning I dress in work clothes. I work all day. In the evening I take off my clothes, take a shower (it’s not swim season yet, so you can’t go to the river), and change into clean clothes.

Click on the picture to enlarge

Respiratory/feeding/muttering protection is also needed. The first day I worked in a cap and a painting mask; I gave up the mask after an hour of work, because... impossible - the closed area heats up, sweats and generally - I didn’t like it. As a result: the cap does not cover the entire head, the ears are open, the nose and mouth too - it all becomes clogged with dust, then I was tortured to wash myself in the shower, and even then I didn’t get rid of it the first time.

On the second and subsequent days I acted more carefully. Instead of a cap, I made myself a scarf from an old sheet. Which completely covers all hair and ears. I also made a strip of the same old sheet to cover my mouth and nose, and again my ears. Those. my head was completely packed, and I had protective glasses on my eyes (to prevent my glasses from fogging up, I soaped my fingers in the morning and rubbed them from the inside over all surfaces of the glasses - it helped).

By the way, why did I mention milk and raspberry jam earlier? Not without reason. The fact is that in the bathhouse, throughout the work, all the windows and doors were open. Accordingly, there is a draft. There’s really no heat outside; when you’re working, you don’t feel the cold. But when I came home in the evening, I couldn’t warm myself up - everything was pounding, despite the warmth in the house. To avoid getting sick, I drank tea with raspberry jam at night and still had a sore throat all this time.

While working, the bitter taste of the bark in my mouth did not go away and the taste was very much reminiscent of some kind of medicine that I was given as a child. To somehow soften this taste, I drank milk often.

Preparation for processing

Processing should not be delayed. It must be applied immediately when the log house is ready, even before caulking. If the work is postponed, then the finished log house is covered with a film to protect it from external manifestations - precipitation and other things.

Before treating the exterior of the bath house, you should thoroughly clean it of construction debris. You can even use a vacuum cleaner to do this. Then it is dried and the compositions are applied in this order:

• Impregnation against mold and mildew and for protection against moisture.
• Anti-parasite layer.
• Fire retardant is an important component for wooden buildings.

If everything is done correctly, then subsequent treatments are done no earlier than three years later. Many compositions are good and durable, lasting up to five years.

Wood needs to be processed throughout its existence. Then she will delight her owners for a long time.

It is recommended to grind the frame after its main shrinkage, before caulking. It is worth carrying out the work before the windows are installed, as a large amount of dust will settle on the fittings and components of the windows.

Working with raw wood is very difficult. However, if the bathhouse is assembled from dried logs or beams, then the treatment can be carried out immediately after installing the roof. This process is time-consuming and requires serious effort.

Before starting to sand the sauna logs, we inspect the surface for defects. When peeling off some elements (the so-called “petals”), carefully lubricate them with glue and leave for a day until completely dry.

What are the dangers of fungus formation?

Fungal spores spread an unpleasant odor and spoil wooden finishes. Fungi are also very harmful to health. Hot, humid air helps to expand the pores on the skin, through which toxins and impurities are removed. Along with the release of “garbage,” spores of “black parasites” penetrate into the body.

Household mold often forms in the bathhouse, which is considered less dangerous to humans. When the black type of mold enters the body, it causes the development of:

1. Allergies. The reaction is not limited to mold. The parasite infects the body and intolerance to various irritants occurs. In most cases, a person has no idea what caused the allergy to develop.
2. Diseases of the respiratory system. The respiratory organs are affected faster than other organs. Spores penetrate not only through pores, a person inhales harmful particles along with oxygen.
3. Diseases of the gastrointestinal tract.
4. Oncological neoplasms of benign and malignant nature.

To prevent diseases, one must constantly fight the “black infection”. If signs of fungus are detected, you need to treat the room and ventilate damp areas. If mold is not destroyed at an early stage, the benefits of visiting the steam room will be reduced to zero, and the risk of developing diseases will increase to one hundred percent.

For construction, mold is no less dangerous. If you do not start fighting the fungus, the structure of the building material will be destroyed, and the walls, floor, and ceiling of the bathhouse will begin to rot.

Processing of a sauna log

The standard method of impregnation with an antiseptic involves working with a brush or spray. Working with a brush is more difficult and takes longer. However, it is indispensable in some cases, for example, when a certain area cannot be properly coated with a sprayer. Every 2-3 hours it is recommended to change the brush to a new one.

Impregnation with a spray gun is considered to be of higher quality and, which is absolutely certain, is carried out much faster.

In some cases, alternative methods of processing wooden structures are appropriate:

1. Method of immersing wood in a container with an antiseptic agent. This approach guarantees impregnation of even the most difficult to reach areas of the structure.
2. The diffuse (dry) method of treating with an antiseptic drug involves applying a paste or powder substance to the surface.

Before you begin to impregnate the log house, it must be cleared of all kinds of blockages. A vacuum cleaner is suitable for this purpose. Then the surface must be thoroughly dried.

The compositions are applied in the following sequence:

• means for protection against fungus and moisture;
• impregnation against insect pests;
• fire-fighting agent (fire retardant).

After finishing surface treatment with antiseptics, it is recommended to apply a gel or primer. However, we must not forget about the basic rule: the material must be breathable.

If everything is done in accordance with the technology, then subsequent impregnations are done no earlier than three years later. Some compositions last up to five years.

Processing of a log house begins with fire-retardant impregnation; fire retardants are used for this. A good option is to use Neomid 530, which is used as a reliable means against wood fire.

Although modern antiseptics can also protect wood from burning, so you can choose a universal option. They will protect your home from various fungi and insects. In addition, antiseptics repel moisture, so even with the initial treatment of a log house with an antiseptic, it will no longer be afraid of atmospheric phenomena.

For example, fire-retardant antiseptic impregnation Pirilax - Classic for wood. It will provide protection from fire, mold, blue stains, and insects. Paint and varnish coatings can be applied on top.

Among domestic manufacturers, the most popular antiseptic is Neomid 400, intended for use inside the house, it protects wood for up to 25 years. Environmentally friendly, specially designed for treating residential premises. For outdoor work you can use Neomid 440. But “Neomid 450” has additional fire protection.

And if you want to give your wood maximum protection, you can use Neomid 430, it is used for both external and internal work. It is even used to treat piers where wood is in direct contact with water. According to the instructions, increased protection will be provided for up to 35 years.

Among the imported options, you can choose Tikkurila Valtti Color, (Tikkurila Valtti Color Satin, Tikkurila Valtti Color Extra, Tikkurila Valtti Akvacolor) this is a glazing, colorable antiseptic produced by a Finnish company, it not only protects the wood but also gives a wonderful shade. The range of colors is very large.

Tikkurila Vinha – Covering semi-matte antiseptic that keeps the wood structure visible.

Tikkurila Valtti-Pohjuste is an antiseptic primer that protects wood and prepares it for painting.

If you want the structure of the wood to be visible, you can use a colorable antiseptic; it will give your log a wonderful shade. In the future, you can coat the frame with varnish. Well, if you paint the house, use an antiseptic primer, then the paint will adhere more reliably to the log.

For painting, it is better to use water-soluble dyes, then the wood will be able to breathe freely, and the paint and antiseptics will protect the wood from atmospheric agents. Tikkurila Ultra, which is used for painting external wooden surfaces, is well suited for these purposes.

Domestic impregnations

Antiseptic Senezh sauna

Purpose – protection against biological parasites (fungus, woodworms, mold, etc.), as well as hygienic (antimicrobial) prevention. This antiseptic is designed specifically for use in conditions of high temperatures and humidity. Apply with a wide brush, short-haired roller or spray in 2-3 layers.

What is covered are wooden surfaces that are not in contact with humans (walls, ceilings, doors - just places covered with clapboard).

A few words about the use of drying oil. Yes, it is inexpensive and after processing, the lining looks nice, but drying oil, “this is not about a bathhouse.” I'll say it briefly:

Firstly, it practically does not protect the tree from steam.

Secondly, at high temperatures it releases an unpleasant odor and harmful toxins.

So, think a hundred times: whether to use “this oil” in a bath or not.

Another good buy is acrylic varnish for saunas, Evrotex Sauna. The colorless substance is applicable in rooms from temperatures up to 150°C.

"Eurotex Sauna" is an antiseptic that provides a water and dirt-repellent coating to protect against biological influences, as well as antimicrobial prophylaxis. Contains natural wax, which creates a protective film on the surface of the lining that can be washed with acidic and neutral agents without the risk of damage.

Suitable for both new and old (pre-cleaned) boards. Apply with a regular brush or spray in 2-3 layers. What is covered is all wooden surfaces, except bath shelves.

A few words about bleaches for lining. It is used for board surfaces that have become darkened as a result of fungal staining and biological damage. Also effective for “rejuvenating” old wood. Among domestic products, we can recommend Senezh Neo, made on the basis of an oxidizing agent. It is applicable to wood that has not previously been treated with paints and varnishes. The product is odorless and does not affect the natural color of the wood.

In conclusion, I note that you can use different means to work with the lining inside the bathhouse. But I repeat, one condition - they must be created specifically for the bath. There are all sorts of do-it-yourself processing options. If you are sure that it will be useful and safe - go ahead! But know that making the “right” chemical is more difficult than making homemade sausage.

Anecdote about a bathhouse. In ancient China, baths were not divided into women's and men's, but when the population exceeded a billion, everyone realized that this was a mistake.

I hope that the material presented is useful. Finally, as usual: subscribe to the news and introduce your friends to the blog. Good luck and make the right choice for you!

Wisdom Quote: A hot-tempered person will never know the truth.

External polishing of the bathhouse frame

When starting work, be sure to protect your eyes and respiratory tract from dust. To do this, you need to stock up on goggles and a respirator. If you have no grinding experience, it is recommended to initially “get your hands on” in inconspicuous areas.

It is best to start sanding from the bottom up. We perform the procedure in the following sequence:

• We grind the surface of the log with a grinder with a coarse abrasive (eccentric machine).
• We process the grooves with a grinder with a smaller attachment (the tool is used regardless of the type of beams). In this case, the disk must be 1-1.5 cm larger than the nozzle. Otherwise, the angle grinder will jam in the groove and may break out of your hands, which will cause injury.
• Using a chisel, remove the top layer in the corners. If desired, this procedure can be carried out at the initial stage.
• We grind the ends only with coarse abrasive (30-40). To reduce the lint on the surface, hammer it with a hammer or burn it with a soldering iron.
• We repeat the procedure on each wall.
• Carefully remove dust from the surface before further finishing. You can use a vacuum cleaner and brushes for this.

Please note that it is not advisable to use the tool at too high speeds. Otherwise, deep marks will remain on the wood.

To give an aesthetic appearance and protection from the negative effects of precipitation and fungus, it is necessary to pay attention to additional processing of the logs. Each wall must be coated with compounds immediately after sanding. Otherwise, it will darken within a day, and all the work will be in vain.

When finishing, follow the following instructions:

1. Apply a layer of primer. The procedure can be carried out using an electric spray gun or brush.
2. If desired, we paint or bleach the surface to emphasize the shade of the wood structure.
3. We treat the log house with fire retardants.

It is better to choose paint and varnish for finishing that is based on a chemical solvent. Their water-based counterparts lead to pile rise after the first painting. Particular attention should be paid to the ends of the bath - due to the rough surface, they absorb compounds in large quantities.

What should you protect a wooden house from?

Processing of a log house is required for several reasons. Wood is threatened not only by microorganisms, but also by other factors, each of which requires specialized protection. How to treat a log house inside a house?

• Wood needs protection from insects: wood-boring beetles infect all wooden elements, which ultimately leads to a decrease in strength and premature collapse. In addition, wooden structures can be damaged by rodents. House logs and other parts are treated with an antiseptic against all biological threats: this is a special composition that prevents rotting.
• Wood is a flammable material, and this threat cannot be ignored. A faulty heating system or faulty electrical wiring can lead to a fire that ultimately completely destroys the house. To prevent disaster, the building must be carefully treated with fire retardants. These are substances that prevent combustion. With their help you can protect walls and prevent the spread of fire.

Wood, especially pine, is prone to discoloration, which indicates the beginning of the destruction of the top layer. To protect against putrefactive processes and the negative effects of moisture, the log house can be painted, for which all kinds of water-based varnishes and paints are used. If you do not want to hide the natural texture of the wood, you can use glaze compounds, which, thanks to their translucent composition, will allow you to demonstrate the beauty of the wood.

Processing a log house inside a house is not much different from outside: wooden walls look beautiful, but so that the interior does not lose its original beauty over time, you will still have to use different paints on wood. Since they are made on a water basis, they do not reduce the environmental friendliness of the building: they provide natural air and moisture exchange, in addition, the walls will receive additional protection from mold.

When choosing how to treat a log house, you need to pay attention to the quality of the purchased building materials. The durability of the entire structure and its security will depend on the reliability of processing, so it’s better not to save money here

Russian and Finnish antiseptics and fire retardants are in great demand today; they can be purchased at any hardware store.

How and when to treat at home

The initial treatment of wood with antiseptics is carried out by the manufacturer of the log or timber, as it should protect the material from rotting during storage and delivery to the site. After construction, the log house must be left for six months until the final completion of shrinkage.

After this, you can proceed to the final processing of the wood and cover it with antiseptic solutions and protective compounds. For a log house, varnishing is not mandatory, but it allows you to increase its service life by more than 5 years, as well as preserve its beautiful appearance for a long time.

How to treat a log house? There are two options:

1. Manual. Antiseptics, fire retardants and paints are applied manually using brushes and rollers of various sizes. The advantages are clear: you can process and then paint literally every centimeter of the space, but such work requires a lot of time. You will have to spend more than one day, in addition, it is advisable to have the skill of painting a log, since the paint may lie unevenly.
2. Using a spray bottle. A sprayer will speed up processing many times over, but you need to know how to work with it. In any case, the sprayer will not help in processing the joints of logs; difficult areas will still have to be passed over with a brush several times.

Using a sprayer greatly reduces the time of antiseptic treatment. Such compositions usually have a liquid consistency, so they will be easy to apply to the wall.

Information on choosing a tree for a log house

When choosing an impregnation or paint composition, it is necessary to take into account the type of wood from which the bathhouse is built. Some breeds do not need additional moisture protection. These species include oak and most conifers. However, each breed has its own characteristics:

1. Pine does not like heat and humidity, therefore, it is not suitable for log houses.
2. It is better to use spruce in a dressing room, since, despite its excellent thermal insulation properties, this tree is even more afraid of moisture than pine.
3. Aspen tolerates moisture well, but gives off a bitter smell.
4. Birch loves dryness, and therefore is only suitable for dressing rooms.
5. Cedar and larch are not afraid of moisture, but are too resinous.
6. Alder is excellent for making logs.
7. Oak and ash are used to decorate expensive baths.

The resin of trees suitable for making log houses contains resins that contain phytoncides. These substances are natural antiseptics. Thus, nature itself protects such wood from fungus, rot and insect pests.

However, excessive resinity (as in some species of coniferous trees) cannot be considered a positive quality. The fact is that under the influence of high temperatures, the resin transforms into a liquid state and begins to spread. Of all the coniferous tree species, only spruce best meets the requirements for a steam room.

Briefly about the main thing

A wooden frame is made from interconnected rows of logs or beams. It is characterized by harmlessness, a healthy microclimate, good gas exchange, sufficient sound and heat insulation, and resistance to stress. Disadvantages manifest themselves in the form of natural aging, destruction under the influence of biological and climatic factors, as well as susceptibility to fire.

The grinding procedure brings him the following benefits:

• Improves aesthetic qualities.
• Strengthens adhesion.
• Stops aging.
• Reduces the consumption of finishing impregnations.
• Protects against destructive factors.

You can begin the procedure of sanding logs only after the wood has naturally dried and shrinked. The processing tool is selected depending on the type of log house. It is made from chopped or rounded logs, as well as profiled or laminated timber. Grinding is carried out in 3 stages - coarse, medium and fine grinding. Upon completion of the procedure, the surface is treated with an antiseptic, bleach and fire retardant.

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The process of applying antiseptics and primers to sanded walls

After sanding the walls of the house, you need to treat them both inside and outside. The work is complex and requires material investments. Not everyone has the patience to finish it to the end.

Before applying the main layers, you should pay attention to the caulking of the log house walls. If cracks appear, re-caulk.

To seal cracks, special sealants are produced that cover the caulk and protect it from the harmful effects of the environment. If the caulking was made with natural flax fiber, then it is necessary to protect it from moisture. You can use, for example, Neomid or Remmins sealants. Only after complete caulking around the entire perimeter and its processing can you begin painting the walls.

End finishing

When processing the surface of the log house walls after grinding, you should pay special attention to the ends of the log or timber. Wood capillaries are located from top to bottom for better penetration of liquid to the crown. When sawing, these channels are exposed, and moisture from the environment easily enters them. If you treat the ends with simple sealants or an antiseptic, this will not bring the required result.

Liquid glass treatment works in a similar way, but it contains toxic substances. But it is cheap.

Any of the selected products should be applied in two layers, carefully covering all joints. Before applying the second, the first is allowed to dry.

Wall treatment

The walls are treated in the warm season at above-zero temperatures, immediately after sanding and caulking, immediately after the construction of a house made of profiled timber is completed. Grinding is best done using a grinding tool with a P80 disc. After this, the dust is removed from the logs and the first layer of antiseptic is applied, for example colorless Teknol Aqua 1410-01. Painting should be done with a brush or electric spray gun. Apply primer in two layers.

The next step is to process the walls again using a sanding machine with P220 or 240 discs. After applying the primer, hairiness appears, which is better to remove. Sanding will take a long time and requires expensive and powerful equipment. So, a high-quality cable machine costs from 2,000 rubles. And with high power, sanding a 30 cm wall takes about half an hour. Of course, you can skip this step, since it does not affect the protective characteristics.

The next step is painting with glazing compounds. You can use a covering antiseptic. The compositions must be applied in the same way using a brush or spray bottle.

To save money, instead of glazing compounds, you can use simple acrylic paint for facades. But the wood texture will be hidden. For example, acrylic paint for facades Tikurilla tolerates temperature changes well and has many shades and colors. The cost of this product is from 1,500 per 10 liters.

With high-quality processing and caulking, wooden walls will serve the owners for more than 50 years. But painting needs to be done at least once every 3-4 years. It's nice to be in a wooden house that not only looks good, but also breathes. And this can only be achieved by painting the external walls after sanding with natural and high-quality materials.

If you plan to line the interior of the log house, then you can polish the inside of the bathhouse only with a coarse abrasive. If the walls will not be sheathed with anything, then it is necessary to sand them to perfect smoothness.

It is better to carry out the initial sanding of the walls before the “finished floors” are laid and the ceiling is covered. We carry out the work in the following sequence:

• We remove the rough layer of bark with a grinder with a coarse abrasive or a grinder.
• Using a grinder, we process the groove and corner areas.
• We carry out grinding with fine abrasive material (120).
• We sand the joints of logs and the most inaccessible places by hand. To do this, the abrasive material can be wound on a block. This is a rather labor-intensive, but most effective process.

Upon completion of work on one wall, it is necessary to sweep away the dust, thoroughly vacuum the surface and coat it with an antiseptic. The same process must be repeated after complete sanding.

When starting to apply antiseptics, make sure there are no caulks. Otherwise, they can be sealed with sealants. We carry out the final finishing in this order:

1. We apply a layer of antiseptic composition to protect against fungus and mold.
2. After complete drying, we treat it with a glazing solution to give the room a more aesthetic appearance.
3. We treat the ends with an acrylic moisture-resistant solution. Let it dry and apply a second coat.
4. We coat the surface with a fire retardant to increase fire-resistant characteristics.

Profiled and laminated timber usually does not require additional leveling. It can be sanded with an eccentric machine if it is necessary to remove the top darkened layer. This process will take longer than processing with a grinder, but the result in this case is high-quality.

Technology for applying protective compounds

For the treatment to be effective, protective compounds are applied to the logs even before they are assembled into a log house.
After the log house is assembled, re-processing is carried out. Processing during the assembly process

Table. Instructions for treating bath walls

It is recommended to start processing the log house as soon as the box is assembled. Some masters combine these two processes.

Abrasive-jet grinding of a bathhouse frame

Recently, the abrasive-jet processing method has gained popularity. Its essence lies in the use of a special apparatus from which sand comes out under pressure. This is a non-contact grinding method. Thus, you can clean the surface of the wood from dirt, paint, burning and give it impeccable smoothness.

Sanding with this tool is easy and quick, and the quality is the highest. Due to the created brushing effect on wood, an original pattern is obtained, emphasizing the naturalness and sophistication of the material. This treatment looks exclusive and expensive. Such grinding is usually carried out by specialists with special equipment.

Sanding the walls of the bathhouse is carried out not only after the construction of the structure is completed. It is also performed to refresh the appearance of an old log house. This process is labor-intensive and time-consuming. However, if you follow the rules, anyone can polish logs in a steam room with high quality.

Useful video

An advertising video listing the entire range of paint and varnish products that could be used to treat a steam room in a bathhouse:

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You may also be interested in materials about the steam room, where we talk about finishing the steam room and separately about finishing it with your own hands, about insulating the steam room, and electrical wiring in it. And for those who are just starting to build their own bathhouse, it will be useful to learn about the structure of the steam room, its design, the layout of the bathhouse as a whole, the ergonomics of the steam room and its optimal size.