Interior decoration of a bathhouse - what is used besides lining?

Is it possible to sheathe the dressing room with plywood?

You can line the inside of the bathhouse with plywood, you need to varnish it on both sides. Here you need to clearly know the following: A bathhouse is a structure of several rooms, a steam room, a dressing room, showers, a relaxation room, different materials can be used, because the temperature and humidity in the room are not the same depending on the room.

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Interior decoration of a bathhouse - what is used besides lining?

Bath buildings are built from logs, concrete and cinder blocks, bricks and other building materials. The lining of the interior with clapboard remains unchanged. In this article we will tell you what other finishing and decorative products can be used in a bathhouse.

In addition to lining, what can you use to cover bathhouse buildings?

The choice of finish depends on the purpose of the room. Inside the building, in addition to the steam room, there is a relaxation room, an entrance hall (dressing room), a bathroom or a washing room. If desired, the project includes a terrace, a residential attic, or several square meters for a small pool.

Lining is a universal material; with proper processing, it can cover all walls and ceilings, but it will turn out too monotonous. Therefore, diverse interior decoration of the bathhouse is chosen.

Already from the name it is clear that this room is periodically maintained at 100% humidity and high temperature. We need a finishing material that can withstand such changes and also does not emit substances harmful to humans during heating: formaldehyde, ammonia, phenol and others.

• According to the specified parameters, only solid wood is suitable, so the owners always try to line the inside of the bathhouse with clapboard made of linden, aspen, cedar, and abasha (African oak). Often planed products from larch or pine are used, but in this case it is necessary to choose slow-growing varieties, since so-called resin pockets do not form in them. Accordingly, the resin will not constantly be released on the surface.
• The bathhouse, in addition to lining, can be finished with more budget-friendly options - edged or unedged boards made of various types of wood - linden, cedar, alder, aspen. Only untreated wood will need to be pre-prepared for installation - remove the bark and sapwood, sand it and coat it with wood-protective water-based varnishes or impregnations with a biocidal effect.
• Covering the walls inside a brick bathhouse with planed boards gives a much better heat-intensive effect, since the thickness of the molded products exceeds the section of the lining by 1.5-3 times.
• Do not try to cover the steam room and other rooms with sheets of sawdust: plywood, chipboard, OSB and other analogues, even moisture-resistant ones. During the heating process, thermosetting resins containing sawdust begin to emit toxic fumes. The result is poisoning of the body instead of healing.
• For the ceiling, in addition to lining or edged boards, designers offer a non-standard option - tempered frosted glass, under which lighting is mounted. The bathhouse will turn out to be very unusual, but modern.
• The floor can be covered with clinker or heat-resistant ceramic floor tiles with a special anti-slip coating. It is hygienic and will withstand high temperatures perfectly.
• And lastly: if the bathhouse is made of rounded or profiled logs, then the finishing technology inside the building does not require covering the ceiling and walls with anything. It is enough to treat all surfaces with fire-retardant compounds on a water or oil-wax basis with a moisture-resistant effect.

• A bathhouse without a washing station is unthinkable. Invariably, the best material for bathrooms and toilets are ceramic products: tiles, mosaics, porcelain stoneware. This is convenient and inexpensive, since you not only need to cover it with clapboard, but also take care of its safety. That is, constantly treat the lining with protective agents with a moisture-resistant and biocidal effect. Tiles don't need this.
• The walls and ceiling are finished with decorative waterproof plaster, plastic panels or plasterboard or glass magnesite for painting with waterproof compounds, but only if the steam room is thermally insulated according to all the rules.
• But for the floor in the bathroom, the choice of products is more extensive. Traditionally, floor tiles or porcelain stoneware are used, but you can cover a small room with modern waterproof laminate made of composite plastic (Duma Floor, Aqua-Step) or special moisture-resistant floor panels, which are offered by the most famous manufacturers of laminated flooring - Egger, Quick Step, Alloc and others.

• By definition, it is intended for changing clothes and precedes the entrance to the steam room. To set the mood in the appropriate manner, they also try to cover this unique vestibule with clapboard, but here you should not limit yourself to finishing options.
• A multifunctional bathhouse is an excellent field for applying your imagination in the field of design. You can cover the walls with decorative clinker or ceramic tiles to imitate stone or brick, wallpaper, including fiberglass, paint them in any color, apply decorative plaster, or cover them with plastic or veneer planks.
• The floor in the intermediate room requires a more or less moisture-resistant material - PVC linoleum or natural marmoleum, vinyl or ceramic tiles, porcelain tiles, edged boards and even plywood or chipboard for varnish.
• The ceiling inside the dressing room, in addition to the lining, can be sheathed with panels or simply painted. Ceiling wallpaper on a non-woven or fiberglass base will look good.

4. Rest room.

• The good thing about a bathhouse is that, in addition to everything else, it almost always has a room for relaxation. To create a special mood, use laminate and MDF or PVC panels with wood decor, vinyl or quartz vinyl tiles, and wallpaper with a corresponding pattern.
• Some paint and varnish manufacturers offer special mixtures that allow you to imitate wood on any mineral or old wooden surfaces. For example, the Dulux series has two-component Trade BrushWood paint. A bathhouse made of bricks or concrete blocks is first lined with sheets of SML, gypsum board, OSB, then a composition is applied over the puttied and primed surface, which, after drying, creates a wood texture that is visually almost indistinguishable from natural.

Lining - pros and cons

Summarizing the above, it is worth noting that a bathhouse cannot do without lining. This is the best finishing material, as it has a unique set of positive properties:

• Low thermal conductivity and high heat capacity.
• Resistance to temperature and humidity changes.
• Resistance to splitting.
• Optimal noise reduction ratio.
• Pleasant, healing smell.
• Easy to install.

Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting that the lining is susceptible to rotting and woodworms, but the problem can be solved - it is enough to treat the surface with special protective compounds for baths and saunas in order to forget about problems with wood for 3-5 years.

Below, watch a useful video about what materials can be used to cover a bathhouse.

Arrangement of the rest room

The main thing here is not practicality, but comfort, a relaxing atmosphere, and ergonomic design. The most affordable way is to sheathe the room with pine boards. They do not rot, dry quickly, and look beautiful. Based on the durability of the material, it is better to choose boards made from Scandinavian pine. A pleasant light pink shade will eventually become covered with an original patina and will give the room even more coziness.

Spruce lining can also be classified as an inexpensive and high-quality finishing material. Thanks to Swedish and Finnish hot air processing technologies, the boards acquire the necessary strength and moisture resistance. There is less resin in spruce than in pine, it is more fragrant, and small knots (which are inevitable) easily turn into the individuality of the interior.

Budget materials for a relaxation room also include laminated, polyvinyl chloride MDF panels, quartz vinyl tiles, fiberglass wallpaper, decorative plaster, tiles with a stone, brick or wood pattern. In general, everything will depend on the imagination of the owners and the style in which the room is intended to be decorated.

There are also compositions (two-component paints) that completely imitate wood on any surface (mineral, old wood). The inside of a brick or concrete-block bathhouse is finished with OSB or gypsum board panels, primed and puttied. Then paint is applied.

Since there is no increased temperature and humidity in the recreation room, linoleum flooring, tiles, edged boards or chipboard followed by varnishing can be used for the floors.

It is cheaper to stick fiberglass wallpaper on the ceiling or simply cover it with paintable panels.

But, if you still want to make a bathhouse not only a place of relaxation, but also a place of healing, the use of wood cannot be avoided. You simply select varieties of inexpensive wood: birch, alder, poplar, aspen, pine. And for areas with increased workload, you can use oak, cedar and linden.

If the bathhouse will be in use all year round, it is better to install heated floors in the relaxation room, and the walls should be well thermally insulated before covering.

Calculation of ceiling heights for steam rooms

The dimensions of a bathhouse depend on the size of all its functional rooms: steam room, washing room, dressing room, relaxation room and technical areas. When calculating the distance from floor to ceiling, it is important to take into account the design and operational features of each room.

When designing the height of the steam room, the type of internal microclimate that is created in the process of heating the room is of great importance.

Pie microclimate

A distinctive feature of the microclimate is the accumulation of heated air masses and a vapor cloud under the ceiling. In this case, the minimum permissible distance from the visitor’s head to the ceiling surface should be 65 cm, the optimal – 85 cm. This will protect the head from overheating, but will allow you to easily reach hot steamed air with a broom.

If there is no elevation on the floor and the average height of a person is 180 cm, the permissible distance from floor to ceiling is in the range from 235 to 260 cm.

Conditioned microclimate

In a steam room with a conditioned microclimate, it is important to organize a free amplitude of swinging a broom when carrying out health procedures. What should be the height of the steam room in this case? The optimal height range is from 210 to 225 cm.

To prevent possible steam leakage when using the bathhouse in winter, the door length should be 160 cm, which is quite inconvenient for tall people. To solve this problem, it is necessary to raise the ceiling to 240 cm and install an additional platform for carrying out procedures.

The minimum permissible distance from the top shelf to the ceiling should be 120 cm to ensure a comfortable swing of the broom. The shelves are installed in several tiers in accordance with the overall dimensions of the room.

Preliminary work

Immediately before starting to finish the ceiling in the bathhouse, it is necessary to carefully prepare the project in order to avoid mistakes or undesirable consequences in the future.

The ceiling in the bathhouse must meet several requirements:

• Serve as a heat insulator;
• Look beautiful;
• Do not release fumes that spoil the pleasure of going to the bathhouse;
• Have a long service life;
• Serve as protection against moisture for the thermal insulation layer.

Before arranging the ceiling, you also need to decide on its height. For most modern bath rooms, a height of about 2.5 m is ideal. For bath structures made of wood, a gap is also provided, since the material shrinks.

After this, you need to decide on the materials with which the ceiling will be finished, the necessary lighting and the method of installing the selected finish.

Sheathing the ceiling in a bathhouse should be done only after calculations have been made and the ceilings have been secured. The false ceiling in the bathhouse is the most common. It is a “layer cake” that is mounted on pre-installed joists. The basis is made up of tongue-and-groove boards fixed directly to the ceilings, followed by a heat-insulating layer followed by a vapor barrier. So how to properly hem the ceiling in a bathhouse?

The listed building materials are quite sufficient to ensure that the optimal temperature in the bathhouse is maintained for a long time. An additional room can be created from the attic by simply laying a layer of boards on top of the thermal insulation. They can be fixed to the same beams - the protective layer usually does not exceed them.

Before starting work, it is necessary to measure the room and add 5% to the result obtained. It is worth paying attention to the symmetry of the ceiling. If it is not ideal, you need to decide which wall the sheathing, cut at an angle, will be attached to. Usually this is done near the darkest wall so that it is not too noticeable. The rough ceiling in the bathhouse and the filing must be installed taking into account all the necessary requirements.

• roulette;
• ruler;
• putty;
• wooden slats and bars;
• building level;
• electric drill;
• screws.

To sheathe a ceiling with plywood, you need to have a fairly flat surface, since all the irregularities will stand out on the already installed material. Therefore, the potholes and cracks present on it must be repaired using putty. When installing, it is better to use sheets that are equal to the length of the room. This will give the future ceiling a more aesthetic and neat look.

Before work, its surface must be prepared. To do this, if necessary, the old coating is removed and cleaned of dust and dirt. Then a diagram is drawn up, on which the location of entire sheets is noted and the sizes of their cut pieces are determined. It is also necessary to calculate the order of installation of the sheathing.

P/S from the author.

Is it possible to use MDF to decorate a bathhouse - as for me, it’s so easy, besides, now they are just like wood. I’m not taking this out of thin air, but from personal experience in using such a bathhouse. It's all about saving. This bathhouse cost about 100 thousand rubles for everything. And we must take into account that this is a fairly large building. For those who are interested in the estimate and what was built and how, read the article; for those who are interested in the topic of economical construction, subscribe to “Samostroy”

, the girl below in the photo recommends it to you)))):

Finishing the outside of a bathhouse made of blocks

Any of the insulation schemes described above can be applied to block baths. In addition, there is another option: to cover such a bathhouse with decorative bricks, but this option of finishing and insulation is possible if the temperature in the bathhouse is maintained above zero at all times.

Exterior decoration of the bathhouse with decorative bricks

If you decide to line a bathhouse made of blocks with bricks, you can lay out the second wall not closely, but retreating 5-10 centimeters. In this case, the thermal insulation characteristics of the building will be much improved. The gap can be left empty, or it can be filled with thermal insulation material: expanded clay, sawdust that has undergone special treatment, etc.

Insulation scheme for aerated concrete baths

To prevent moisture from accumulating in the space between the walls, small ventilation gaps are left in the outer wall, and to securely fix the finishing wall, small pieces of fastening reinforcement are driven into the load-bearing wall.

Recently, finishing material such as a block house, which emits a log wall, has become increasingly popular. Block houses are made from different materials: PVC (vinyl), metal or wood. A bathhouse made of blocks, lined with a block house, looks as if it is made of wood.

Block bathhouse covered with a block house

How to insulate a log sauna from the outside

Almost all insulation of a log bath comes down to carefully sealing the cracks. Even during construction, a special jute insulation was laid between the crowns, but over time the wood dries out, cracks, and new cracks form, which need to be caulked regularly.

Insulation of a log bath

After erecting the frame and caulking the cracks, the building must remain under the roof for at least six months. It is advisable not to use the bathhouse during this time. The log house will shrink, the wood will dry out, and new cracks and gaps will appear. These are the ones that need to be caulked. For this purpose, a special insulation based on jute and flax is used. Jute itself conducts heat poorly and does not burn, but its disadvantage is low elasticity (it tears easily). To solve this problem, flax fibers are added to the insulation for log houses. Thin strips of material are driven into the cracks using a hammer and a special metal caulking blade. This must be done carefully to prevent distortion of the structure.

There is also a special sealant for sealing cracks in wooden buildings. It’s easier to work with: a special syringe fills all available voids.

Insulating a log bath using sealant

A log house shrinks within two years. At this time, it is not recommended to cover it with finishing materials. This way you will have access to newly appearing cracks that need to be periodically sealed from the inside and outside. To protect the insulation from the effects of precipitation, the outside of the building can be covered with film, securing it with strips.

Two years after construction, you can begin finishing. For many this will sound ridiculous, but structures made of logs can be sheathed with a block house, clapboard, imitation timber, or dies. To begin with, a sheathing is mounted on the wall (if it is made of wood, it must be treated with antibacterial impregnations and increases resistance to fire), which is checked for verticality and horizontality using a building level.

Lathing for insulation and finishing

Finishing material is attached to the sheathing, which is then coated with varnish or other protective compounds. If you choose metal guides, they are mounted on special hangers.

Insulation on the outside of a log bath is almost never used, and the inside is only sometimes additionally insulated in the steam room and washing room. If you decide to play it safe and insulate the building, if the insulation is afraid of moisture, a vapor or water barrier is laid on top of it. It is secured using strips, onto which the trim is subsequently attached.

Briefly about the purpose of the cladding

Don’t rush to think about how best to line the inside of the bathhouse, because lining may not be needed at all. The task of the internal lining of the bathhouse is to retain internal heat for a long period of time, which will significantly reduce fuel consumption and combustion time. Thus, we can conclude that the cladding is an integral part of the bathhouse, but this is not entirely true, because a bathhouse built from solid timber using old technologies does not need additional insulation (for more details: “Painting with paired clapboards - how to do it right”).

Having built a bathhouse from cheaper materials, you will have to think about choosing a cladding material.

First of all, you need to mention the main characteristics that the selected material should have:

1. It must withstand high temperatures and be non-flammable;
2. Steam and moisture resistance are also necessary indicators;
3. It is advisable to choose natural materials without harmful chemical treatments, so as not to harm your health with harmful fumes.

Speaking specifically about what can be used to line the inside of a bathhouse, it is worth mentioning lining, block house and magnolite. Of the three options presented, choosing one can also be difficult, so below we will talk in detail about each of them.

Making the casting of the base for the tiles

We coat the floor with a bioprotective solution and then pour a cement-sand solution on top of it, directly onto the plywood. Mix it in a ratio of 1:3 (for one part of cement, take three parts of sifted river sand). We fill it in such a way that a natural flow of water is formed to the place where the wastewater is drained.

If the proportions are correct, then you should have a dark gray cast floor. Don't be afraid that the drain is covered with a small layer of solution. It will easily come away from the plastic of the drain neck. It is enough to apply a sealant and the problem of drain tightness will be solved.

Bathroom trim

What material is suitable for tiling a bathroom or sink - tiles or porcelain stoneware. Unlike wood, ceramics will not require constant treatment with moisture-protective and bactericidal agents.

Glass-magnesite boards are no less popular. This is a durable, moisture-resistant, non-flammable, non-toxic material that is not susceptible to the development of fungus or mold.

You can also use decorative moisture-resistant plaster, plastic panels, plasterboard and glass magnesite for walls and ceilings, followed by the application of waterproof solutions. PVC, slatted pebbles and fiberboard are also allowed. However, it is necessary to take care of complete thermal insulation of the steam room.

In addition to tiles, you can lay moisture-resistant laminate or panels based on composite plastic on the floor. But tiles will be more practical and durable. Wooden shields are placed on top of it to prevent slipping. What interior to create in the washing room in the photo below.

Near the stove

It’s clear how to cover the ceiling with clapboard in a bathhouse, but what about the space near the chimney? The decoration near the bathhouse stove on the ceiling should differ from the main one. Wooden lining is not suitable for finishing it, because it is susceptible to burning. The place where the pipe comes into contact with the ceiling must be additionally protected with non-flammable material and covered with a metal apron. How to cover the ceiling in a bathhouse? The following can be used as protective fibrous material:

1. Basalt or stone wool;
2. Asbestos is a fire-resistant material in sheets;
3. Minerite is a non-combustible slab that is produced specifically for insulating stoves.

On the outside of the ceiling, the outlet of the chimney must also be insulated with non-combustible material, regardless of the thermal insulation material.

What can't be used in a steam room?

It is unacceptable to decorate the walls of the steam room with coniferous species (spruce, pine). The reasons for this are as follows:

• when the walls are very hot, touching them can become unexpected and quite unpleasant;
• drops of released resins can get on the skin and burn it.

It is not recommended to use hardwoods such as oak and walnut. This is explained by their high heat capacity , which leads to the accumulation and retention of heat on their surface.
In a steam room, the walls of which are covered with clapboard made of oak or walnut, it is usually difficult to breathe . In addition, if you accidentally touch them, you can burn your skin.

You should not cover the walls in the steam room with chemical materials: varnish, stain and other similar compounds.

This is due to the harmful effects of chemicals on the human body at very high temperatures.

Insulation of a bathhouse made of timber from the outside

The insulation of a bathhouse made of timber from the outside is absolutely no different from the insulation of a bathhouse made of logs. The building must also stand, cracks also appear in it, which are sealed in the same way.

Insulation of a bathhouse made of timber

The need for external insulation depends on the thickness of the timber. If its thickness is insufficient for your climate zone, insulation will need to be done according to the following scheme:

• lathing made of timber or metal guides (be sure to align them in both horizontal and vertical planes);
• heat insulator (thickness depends on the climate zone, wall thickness, and type of thermal insulation);
• moisture and wind protection;
• counter lathing (not necessary, but there should be a gap between the protective film and finishing materials);
• Decoration Materials.

Insulation of a bathhouse from the outside The
outside of a bathhouse is usually sheathed from timber: clapboard of any type, edged board, siding, metal profile, block house, etc. After completion of the work, the wooden finish is coated with varnishes for exterior use, sometimes pre-treated with coloring pigments, but many modern compositions also have a tinting effect, which, of course, is convenient.

If siding is used as a finishing material, then the presence of a ventilation gap between the insulation and the finishing is mandatory. In this case, it is advisable to use special guides as lathing, which can be purchased in the same place where siding is purchased. The guides are mounted on special hangers.

Metal siding guides are mounted on special hangers

Insulation of a brick bathhouse from the outside

It is imperative to insulate a brick bathhouse from the outside - this material has high thermal conductivity, so without external insulation it will be extremely difficult to warm the room to the required conditions. The sequence of insulation is the same: frame, insulation, moisture and wind insulation, ventilation gap, sheathing.

Insulation scheme for a brick bath

For external insulation, it is usually recommended to use mineral wool. According to recent studies, they are not suitable for internal insulation of a bathhouse - they emit formaldehyde, but for external insulation they are one of the best options. You can also insulate a brick bathhouse from the outside with polystyrene foam boards, polystyrene foam (it is cheaper, but polystyrene is more durable), foam glass (its disadvantage is its high price). To ensure high-quality work, it is recommended to lay two layers intercut (offset by half the length) to reduce heat loss by overlapping the seams. But this method takes more time, and it takes twice as much materials for insulation. Therefore, most often, insulation is done in one layer, tightly laying one mat to another, and the joints are taped with reinforced tape.

Fabric reinforced PVC tape

To cover the outside of a brick bathhouse, you can use wooden finishing materials or siding. There is another option for exterior finishing: you can decorate the outside of the bathhouse with plaster. This is possible if polystyrene boards, foam glass or foam plastic were used as insulation. Then a reinforcing mesh is placed on top of this material, a primer is applied, and then the walls are plastered.

Scheme of insulation of a brick bath and finishing with plaster

You can insulate a brick bathhouse using the type of ventilated facade. In this case, special L-shaped brackets are attached to the wall (the installation step is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation), between which mats or insulation boards are tightly installed.

Insulation scheme for a brick bathhouse based on the principle of a ventilated facade

For reliability, they can be reinforced with special dowels, but this is not necessary - the material itself must hold quite firmly (that’s why they make the fastening step of the guides 1 cm less than the width of the insulation - it is held in place by elastic force). The joints of the slabs are glued with reinforced tape, or treated with special glue, a waterproofing film is laid on top, and secured with strips. Now guides are installed on the brackets, which support the insulation and at the same time serve as the basis for installing the exterior trim. Using this scheme, you can also insulate baths made of foam blocks, cinder blocks or aerated concrete.

Magelan

This is modern, however, not the best material for lining a bathhouse on the construction market.

If you are thinking about how to cover the inside of the dressing room other than lining, then you can undoubtedly resort to this option; in addition, it is perfect for other rooms due to its qualities:

• It is completely unaffected by moisture and rotting processes;
• High temperature, as well as temperature changes, do not harm this material;
• Magnelite sheets are quite easy to install.

This cladding is made from the following materials: fine wood shavings, magnesium and other non-natural components, which are reinforced with glass mesh. By making the lining of a bathhouse from such material, you reduce the environmental component of the room.

Now you are familiar with all the options for interior lining of the sauna and can independently decide how to line the inside of the sauna, based on your own desires and financial situation.

From time immemorial, not only the Slavs, but also Finnish, Ugric and even nomadic tribes made a significant contribution to the creation, which over time began to be called the “Russian bathhouse”. In those days, the technology was very simple: a massive log house was used, which did not have inside . In our technological world, this option is not very practical, since it will require a significant amount of firewood and a lot of time to fire the bathhouse. Wood was once the cheapest material - this is no longer the case. A modern bathhouse is easier to sheathe. There is enough information and photos for this. How to do it inexpensively and beautifully? This will be discussed further.

Selection of materials

To the question “How to decorate the inside of the bathhouse?” we can answer unequivocally that the most suitable material is lining - special panels for wall cladding, the main advantages of which include:

• good microcirculation, allowing the walls to breathe
• no condensation
• pleasing to the eye appearance
• ease of installation
• reasonable cost

the best source material for making lining, since walls made of them allow the room to quickly warm up, while at the same time remaining comfortable for humans in temperature.

This type of material does not emit resinous substances when heated and therefore will not cause harm to health.

Of the listed species, the most preferred (and not only for wall cladding) is larch, but it is also the most expensive material.

It is advisable to first treat linden lining with a special composition (of course, from natural ingredients) in order to preserve its original - almost white - color.

Due to its hardness, aspen lining is also a good cladding material, but experts prefer to use it for ceilings and walls .

durable and resistant to decay , and with its beautiful core you can achieve an attractive decorative effect.

Alder, which has a strong, even structure and a pleasant light brown color with a peculiar pink tint, can be a worthy material for finishing (
especially inside a bathhouse made of foam blocks ).
It is not recommended to use birch as a starting material for lining because of its loose structure and susceptibility to drying out during preparation.

If, for some reason, you still have to make lining from this rock, then you must take into account that it has a loose structure and will be subject to drying out .

A relatively new material, which professionals recommend using to cover walls in a steam room, is lining made from African oak Abash (or Abashi).

This coating has a number of valuable properties , thanks to which this material is considered almost ideal:

• low level of thermal conductivity;
• lightness and at the same time strength;
• resistance to deformation, absence of cracks and chips when sawing and drilling;
• resistance to rotting;
• the presence of a unique, beautiful pattern on the surface.

This material has only one drawback - its rather high cost . But it is covered by the properties mentioned above.

Whatever the source material the lining is made from, it must first be well dried and processed so that there are no roughnesses on it.