How to attach lining to the wall: how to veneer correctly

Finishing ceilings and walls with clapboard, be it wood, plastic or metal, involves performing successive stages of work. By following the correct technological processes, you will receive high-quality and durable coating.

If you choose wooden materials, they are environmentally friendly and have a lot of useful properties, your home will be filled with a wonderful woody aroma. This is a chance to reconnect with nature and old traditions. Give warmth and comfort to your family and loved ones!

Classification of lining

Depending on the type of material from which the lining is made, it is divided into the following types.

Wooden

This material has many subspecies, the difference of which is in the varieties and species of wood. It is environmentally friendly and suitable for framing any surfaces; it is often used for cladding partitions in apartments. Easy to install.

The only disadvantages include the need for pre-treatment and subsequent careful care.

Plastic

The plastic option saves your budget. Suitable for both walls and ceilings. It looks aesthetically pleasing and fits almost seamlessly.

The disadvantages of the material are its short service life. It fades in the sun and cracks in frost.

Metal

Such panels are made of aluminum and steel, which have an additional protective layer. The color scheme and texture can satisfy any buyer.

Aluminum products are designed to last quite a long time. Ideal for outdoor use. As for steel, if the integrity of the protective coating is compromised, corrosion processes will begin and the metal will rot.

Types of lining for facade work

Panels for facade finishing are made from plastic, metal, fiber cement, and wood.

It is difficult to clearly determine the best lining. The choice always depends on the operating conditions and purpose of the building. Before choosing cladding, specialists must take into account the climatic features of the area, the type of structure and its operational properties.

In order to make a competent comparative description of the lining, you should consider its features in such parameters as cost, durability, service life and safety.

Sometimes the fundamental factor when choosing lining is the cost of the building material. However, cheap does not mean good.

Popular wooden lining

Of course, wood has a higher price and the cost of such panels depends on the type of wood and class. Today on the market there is a wide selection of Eurolining class “A” or “Extra”. More durable wood, strict quality control and the difference in defects determine a fairly high price.

The most common is class “B” pine lining, which is excellent for cladding country houses, terraces, and bathhouses.

Cladding classes

Plastic (vinyl) lining will cost an order of magnitude cheaper, but at the same time, it does not provide that natural appearance that many people like so much.

The service life depends on the characteristics of use. Atmospheric precipitation, temperature, air humidity and other criteria have a direct impact. Therefore, when choosing the type of forcing, all these factors should be taken into account.

Plastic lining is not at all afraid of moisture, but at the same time it does not have sufficient resistance to temperature changes. Vinyl tolerates exposure to UV radiation, but does not withstand mechanical influence from the outside. Any small impact is enough and the integrity of the panels can be damaged.

Vinyl siding

The popularity of vinyl panels is also due to the variety of color schemes, which allows you to select the appropriate range for the style and exterior of the building. The scope of vinyl products is very wide; they are widely used for cladding balconies, loggias, and gazebos. But low frost resistance makes this material undesirable for cladding houses in climate zones with strong temperature changes.

Example of façade finishing with vinyl siding

Wood is characterized by increased resistance to mechanical damage, is not afraid of sudden temperature changes, but does not like moisture. Specialists treat wooden lining with special protective compounds to improve its performance characteristics. Wood creates an atmosphere of warmth and comfort that no other material can convey.

If we talk about safety, then vinyl lining is not subjected to fire-resistant impregnation. When burned, vinyl melts, evaporating harmful substances.

Wooden finishing is an excellent solution for a bathhouse, terrace or private home. To increase fire resistance, the boards are pre-treated with a special impregnation. The unique structure of wood, its healing properties and environmental friendliness determine the wide demand for this material.

If not properly cared for, wood quickly loses its properties. It may crack and become deformed. It is for this purpose that before installing this material, specialists carry out thorough treatment with special antiseptic and hydrophobic mixtures. This prevents the appearance of mold, mildew and protects the wood from moisture penetration. As for care, wood is difficult to wash and clean. Over time, it can change its shade and lose its original freshness.

Comparison of plastic and wood siding

Plastic, on the contrary, is easy to maintain. It is enough to wipe with a damp cloth or use cleaning agents and the vinyl looks like it was originally covered. Despite its high resistance to UV rays, plastic may lose its color brightness over time, which does not in any way affect its performance properties.

Vinyl lining is often called laminated panels that perfectly imitate the structure of wood, artificial stone or metal, which allows you to implement any design idea.

Vinyl siding for shiplap

Brick siding

Thus, the following advantages can be identified from plastic lining:

low weight;
UV resistance;
variety of colors;
long service life;
ease of care;
ease of installation.

What is the difference between lining and eurolining

Both the first and second options allow you to finish any surface with high quality. However, eurolining differs in some characteristics:

Euromaterial is produced from other types of wood using other technological processes;
has an elongated groove for fastening;
it has other geometric parameters;
products undergo higher quality drying and special processing;
characterized by an additional ventilation function;
has a system for removing accumulated moisture, which protects the wood from destructive processes (special grooves are made on the back side of the panel so as not to disturb the aesthetics of the wood);
has a higher cost.

What work should be done beforehand?

Before carrying out construction work, each board and timber must be thoroughly treated with an antiseptic.

Processing of lining

Please note that many antiseptics contain a coloring pigment that will affect the decorative function of the lining. If you want to preserve the natural color of the wood, it is recommended to treat only the inner part of the material, and varnish the outer part after installation. If the facade is being prepared for painting, this does not matter and both sides can be treated with an antiseptic.

Let the lining dry thoroughly so as not to deteriorate its technical characteristics.

Preparatory stage

Before you begin attaching the lining to any wall, you should carefully prepare.

Processing of wooden products

Initial wood processing is very important and comes first:

If you use coniferous wood, it is first degreased and the remaining tar stains are removed. Acetone works well for these manipulations. Then everything is wiped with a damp cloth and dried.
To achieve the same shade of wood, treat it with a solution of oxalic acid and pharmaceutical peroxide.
It is best to immediately repair existing flaws with wood putty.
To preserve the natural texture and add richness to the shade, stain or similar special impregnations are ideal.

If you miss the moment of processing, clapboard-lined walls can bring a lot of trouble in the future! Chemical compositions, which is very important, protect against fungal infections and the activity of various insects that destroy the structure of the tree.

Preparing walls and ceilings

High-quality prepared walls and ceilings are the key to a successful outcome of the work and durability of the coating. Therefore, we proceed step by step:

All surfaces are cleaned of dust and other contaminants; you can use both a home and industrial vacuum cleaner.
Concrete and brick, in order to further prevent the proliferation of fungal colonies, are treated with antiseptic and water-repellent agents. Antibacterial and antipyrite (fireproof) solutions are suitable for wood surfaces.
Waterproofing on walls is necessary to create a water barrier in houses such as log houses or other wooden materials. Others do not need such protection. A vapor barrier layer (roofing felt, polyethylene, foil) is immediately laid on concrete and brick surfaces. The vapor barrier is mounted on fixed and leveled strips measuring 15x30 mm. How they will be installed - vertically or horizontally - depends on which orientation you prefer for the lining.

On a note! If the lining for the walls will be located vertically, the sheathing is mounted horizontally, and the strips for the vapor barrier are already in a vertical position and vice versa.

The vapor barrier is secured using a stapler. Make sure that the material is not too stretched, otherwise when temperature changes it may sag and condensation will accumulate there.

How to cover a wall with laminated panels

The process of covering walls with panels is simple and does not require high qualifications from the performer. Anyone who knows how to hold a hacksaw, hammer and screwdriver in their hands can do this job without much difficulty.

Required Tools

What tools the installer may need depends on how he plans to install the laminate on the wall, but in any case the following will be required:

building level;
tool for cutting panels (metal hacksaw, jigsaw);
block for padding panels during installation;
wooden or rubber mallet;
metal square and tape measure.

To cover a wall on a wooden frame, you will additionally need a stapler with the ability to use nails, and to attach it to a metal frame, a screwdriver. To glue the laminate to the wall, you will need a glue gun.

Wall mounting methods

Two methods of covering walls with laminated panels are used - adhesive and frame.

The first requires careful leveling, puttying and priming of the wall before starting installation.

The frame method does not require leveling the surface of the walls - the slats are laid on a sheathing mounted from a metal profile or wooden blocks.

When you plan to install laminate flooring on a wall with your own hands, it is advisable to carefully consider which option will be less labor-intensive and make the optimal decision.

Laying panels

If you choose the method of attaching the laminate to the wall using lathing, the sheathing process begins with its manufacture. To make a wooden one, you need to attach bars 20 - 40 mm wide to the wall with self-tapping screws at a distance of 300 - 400 mm from one another perpendicular to the direction of the strips. To assemble the metal sheathing, a profile designed for gypsum boards is used.

Before you start installing the laminate on the wall, you need to place spacer wedges under the bottom strip to ensure a deformation gap of 5 - 10 mm (cuts of the laminate will do). You can start installation from any corner, but it is more convenient from the bottom left.

Laminated panels are attached to the sheathing using special staples called clamps, or nails. Clippers are the best fastener for laminate flooring when laying it on a wall, but the process itself is more labor-intensive.

Due to the fact that laminated panels have the ability to expand and contract, the clamping method of their installation is the most reliable.

The clamps press the protruding part of the lamella lock, securely fixing it and not interfering with the docking of the next laminated panel laid on the wall. The clamps themselves are secured to the sheathing either with self-tapping screws or nails.

A simpler, but less reliable way of attaching lamellas is with finishing nails through the groove of the lock. For stronger adhesion, strips of glue can be applied to the bars before installation.

With the adhesive method, before starting to lay the laminate on uneven walls, first of all, it is necessary to remove these irregularities. Then the wall needs to be plastered, and after drying it must be covered with a primer. The glue must be chosen taking into account the fact that the material tends to “walk” when humidity and temperature change. To securely fix the laminate to the wall, “liquid nails” or special glue designed for this purpose are best suited.

The technological process of installation is extremely simple - you need to apply glue to the first panel (or wall) in a zigzag pattern and press it firmly against the wall at the point where installation begins. All other slats are attached in a similar way. To ensure maximum strength of the coating, they are laid with a “comb”, for which the required number of panels should be cut in half. Start laying each next row alternately with a whole strip or with its half.

To complete the work, the corners and edges of the sheathing should be covered with corners and decorative plinths.

How to make sheathing for lining

To correctly align the beams under the sheathing, follow the recommendations below:

saturate the beams with a fireproof solution and protect them from fungal infections, as described above;
install the slats perpendicular to the lining;
maintain the same distance, the step between the bars should be 40–50 cm;
leave gaps between the floor and ceiling;
the frame must be perfectly level, use plumb lines or a level to check;
The gaps that arise between the beams and the wall at the fastening points are filled with special spacers.

How to calculate clamps for fasteners

You can correctly calculate the number of clamps needed as follows:

Measure the length of the lining with a tape measure.
The location of the clamps is usually calculated at a distance of 40-60 cm. 5 cm is possible. It is better not to do less or more.
The division works like this: the length is divided by the distance, plus one. Visually: 200 cm: 40 cm 1 = 6 clamps per lining.
Then you can calculate how many of them will be needed for all the linings and work.
Example: 10 linings X 6 clamps = 60 clamps.
Usually 100 staples are sold per package, but you can also find them sold individually in regular hardware stores.

It is very easy and quick to calculate how many clamps are needed for the job.

Installation of insulation

The insulation technology is quite simple. The most optimal combination of layers would be:

insulation;
vapor barrier;
lining.

The existing sheathing greatly facilitates the process of additional insulation; the material is attached between the already installed racks.

One of the most popular and sought-after insulation materials is polystyrene foam, but it is not at all suitable for rooms such as bathhouses. Here it is better to use basalt wool. It has excellent characteristics, and, most importantly, does not burn.

Vertical cladding with plastic lining: step-by-step instructions

You will need the following materials:

dowels 6x80 mm;
staplers;
plastic lining;
base skirt;
decorative plastic corners (external, internal or universal);
beams for the construction of sheathing (50x50 mm);
self-tapping screws;
glue for plastic;
U-shaped hangers.

Step 1. Install the building sheathing. If insulation is planned, we make a double sheathing (see above). If the house does not need an additional thermal insulation layer, we limit ourselves to a single-layer sheathing.

Lathing, photo

Step 2. Take the plastic lining and fasten the outer part with self-tapping screws to the sheathing. Do not forget that the plastic panels are laid strictly perpendicular to the sheathing. We cut the plastic panel according to the required measurements with a hacksaw.

Start profile

Attaching the first panel

The panel rests on the starting profile

Step 3. We fix the inner part of the lining with a construction stapler to the frame beams. Always check that the entire surface of the panel has entered the lock to prevent further deformation of the wall and loss of integrity.

Installing a second panel

Screwing in a screw

Step 4. We insert the next board into the fastenings and fix it with a stapler to the sheathing in increments of 40 cm.

Step 5. The finishing panel is secured with a screw and press washer. After this, you should apply a decorative corner and secure it with glue.

Finish bar

Punching mounting holes in the last panel

Latching the last panel

Vertical siding

Example of façade finishing

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

At the end of the article, we invite you to carefully read the video instructions on how to properly install lining to the facade of a building.

Video - Covering a frame house with clapboard, using the example of one wall

Ways to fasten the lining

As a rule, any facing material has a tongue-and-groove system; it is designed for high-quality fixation of the planks among themselves. But the lining should also be nailed to the sheathing frame. To do this, use nails, clamps, staples or screws. In addition, the attachment points can be made hidden or open. It is important to ensure that the entire structure is properly fixed and that the planks are not damaged.

Mounting stapler

Using a mounting stapler, fasten the lining quickly and conveniently. The staples fit into the grooves and connect the facing elements well with the sheathing.

Kleimers

This method allows you to cover walls with clapboard very neatly, but is one of the most difficult. The nails must be driven directly into the grooves so they remain hidden.

The clamps securely fix the plank, but it is very important to initially accurately select the nails in size. Typically, sets of clamps already include nails; if they are not available, the choice should be based on the thickness of the grooves.

Self-tapping screws and nails

This option involves diagonal fastening. The working strip is fixed in the groove of the previous one, and the head of a nail or self-tapping screw presses it to the base.

Screws

Special decorative screws are used to secure the board on the front side. To make your walls and ceilings look aesthetically pleasing, installation should be done extremely carefully.

Tools and materials

In order for the process of installing eurolining to be quick and high-quality, you cannot do without a certain set of tools.
Among them must be:

perforator;
jigsaw, it is better if it is electric;
drill;
hammer;
ruler and level;
thread for checking plumb line;
self-tapping screws that are suitable for woodworking;
clampers.

Using a hammer drill, it will be possible to prepare holes for dowels into which screws will fit when screwing the board. You can use a jigsaw to saw off the necessary pieces of material, especially if there are windows or other non-specific protrusions on the wall. For greater efficiency and faster pace of work, it is better to use a jigsaw.

A drill is necessary in order to attach wooden slats or a metal profile to the wall, into which the eurolining will be driven. You can use a hammer to hammer in dowel nails if they are used in the work, or tap the slats so that they sit completely in place without forming gaps or uneven seams. You need to work with this task carefully so as not to spoil the edges of each slats. A ruler is necessary to draw an even cutting line for the material to minimize inaccuracies. In addition, sometimes you have to cover a wall with windows, switches and other additional elements that need to be bypassed on both sides. Using a level, guides are lined up for the eurolining. The result of the finished masonry on the wall depends on their evenness.

When part of the lining is installed, you need to check it using a plumb line with a thread, if everything is fine, then you need to continue working, but if there are strong deviations, you need to get rid of them. The fastening of the boards to the guides is done using self-tapping screws. Their size is selected taking into account the thickness of the eurolining and the distance to the wall.

One of the fastening options is a clamp, which is a small bracket into which the lining is driven. Using a clamp, you can fasten one board to the sheathing and install a second one on top of it, which will fit into the groove of the already fixed part. This fastening turns out to be reliable, because each part is attached to a solid base. When planning the installation of eurolining, it is best to initially decide on the installation method and purchase only the necessary materials. If the procedure is to be done for the first time, then you can try each of the methods on a small area and determine for yourself the most convenient option for fastening materials, according to which you will need to select tools.

Installation of accessories

Finishing ceilings and walls with clapboard also involves installing fittings that allow you to hide the edges of the material. Often, a fillet or plinth is used for these purposes; they are secured with small nails.

Basic installation rules:

floor connecting strips are fixed to the floor;
products for ceilings are fixed accordingly;
strips for corners, when the adjacent clapboard wall in the room is not sheathed, are mounted to this wall;
strips for corners located between sheathed walls are installed on the shorter one.

When working with plastic lining, the fittings are glued together.

Types of installation

There are two ways to attach the lining: vertical and horizontal. Before choosing a method, you should consider that vertical cladding will visually increase the height of the building's exterior.

Vertical board on the facade of a frame house

Vertical siding trim

Horizontal, on the contrary, will visually increase the width of the facade. Before buying material, calculate how many boards you will need for one and the other method. Consider the width and length of the beams to minimize waste.

Facade cladding with clapboard horizontally

We cover the wall with clapboard

It is very important, before starting cladding, to keep the wooden material in a dry room for about 48 hours. If you get down to business right away, you risk getting the structure deformed. Make sure that during the working process the temperature is above zero and the air humidity is at least 60%.

Horizontal arrangement

How to properly attach the lining to the wall:

Typically, the planks are installed in a horizontal direction. In this regard, we place the first bottom board with the tenon facing up.
Fastening is carried out from the far corner (relative to the entrance to the room).
To avoid visible defects on the top panel, we carefully monitor the horizon and vertical, starting from the first board.
We fix the first element and again check the level for possible errors.
Then we insert it into the grooves and secure the subsequent planks.

Vertical arrangement

As a rule, the lining is attached in the same way, both horizontally and vertically. Therefore, based on the instructions described above, we perform the following steps:

We expose the panels from the far corner. Let's fix the first one.
We drive the subsequent panels into the grooves and also fasten them. Be sure to monitor the density of the joint by lightly tapping the edge of the board.
Wide panels are better suited for this option. With their help you can create a beautiful plane with a small number of joints.

An experienced craftsman can complete such work within a day. When installation is completed, baseboards and corners are installed. Then the walls are treated with stain and varnish.

Useful tips

And finally, a few tips that will ensure the reliability, durability and aesthetic appeal of wood cladding:

Before installation, it is advisable to treat all wooden surfaces, including sheathing, with antiseptic impregnation, especially if clapboard is used to finish a wet room or external walls. This will prevent the spread of mold.
When finishing interior spaces, materials must be kept in them for two to three days for acclimatization.
The lined surface can be painted, coated with oil, wax, varnish, or stain. Pre-priming will reduce the consumption of varnish or paint.

Features of fixing lining to the ceiling

We looked at what clapboard-lined walls look like, but how to sheathe ceilings correctly? Attaching the planks to the ceiling follows the same pattern as for vertical surfaces. Self-tapping screws and a screwdriver are very helpful here; sometimes small nails are used.

If the sheathing for the panels is made of wood, it is mounted in the same way as for the wall. However, it is better to leave the distance between the bars large. When a metal frame is planned, special hangers are installed, and the guide profile is fixed to them.

Advice! To finish the ceiling, get a second person to help. The work is not difficult, but it is quite difficult to hold the panels correctly and fasten them yourself.

Self-tapping installation

Through fastening with self-tapping screws through the entire board, and not through a groove, is the simplest, fairly reliable, but not the best solution for wooden lining. With this method, the integrity of the material is compromised, so the holes must be regularly treated with special protective mastics to prevent destruction and rotting of the wood. Despite all efforts, over time, the installation sites of fasteners may become noticeable, which significantly impairs the aesthetics of the decorative finish. Usually the first and last panels are mounted this way for reliability, and for the rest they use fastening with finishing nails or clamps.

How to properly attach the lining in a bathhouse

Typically, the construction of bathhouses is made of pine wood. Many people are interested in the question of how to properly line interior walls with clapboards with their own hands. You should know that pine needles are no longer suitable for finishing a steam room; at high temperatures, they begin to release resin. When the evaporation is still weak, this aroma has a calming effect and encourages relaxation. But rich odors lead to heavier air, which is not at all good. Therefore, it is better to use birch or alder as a finishing material, which emit medicinal aromas that have a lot of useful properties.

It is also important to use special wooden nails for covering the steam room. Everyone knows that metal products become heated when the room is heated and upon contact with the skin they can cause a burn.

If you familiarize yourself with the main rules and approach the process competently, cladding the walls of your own home is not at all difficult, it is even interesting. It doesn’t matter which profile you prefer, you now know how to attach both wooden and plastic lining.

Believe that everything will work out! Good luck! And see you again!

Fastening with finishing nails

Finishing nails are special nails of small thickness. They easily enter the material without causing cracking. Their distinctive feature is a reduced cap, which is easily recessed into the thickness of the part. Unlike construction nails, finishing nails cannot withstand increased loads and are used only for hidden fastening of finishing materials in structures that will not be subject to shrinkage, tearing and bending. This installation method is not suitable for installing temporary coverings, since it is almost impossible to remove a thin nail from the panel.

Stage 2 - frame construction

Before nailing the lining, it is necessary to build a solid foundation:

First, you need to check the base with a level to find out how crooked your walls are. Next, the lines for the location of the bars are marked. Remember a simple rule - if the lining is mounted vertically, then the frame is positioned horizontally and vice versa ;

The easiest way is to sketch out a design diagram in advance to have a clear idea of what it should look like.

A block is attached along the lines; if the walls are smooth, then you can fix it directly to the wall, and if there are unevenness, then it is better to fix the hangers every 50 cm. Then the hangers are bent, the block is placed, leveled and fixed in the desired position. See also the article finishing the kitchen with clapboard.

With the help of hangers, setting the frame level is not difficult

Claymers, their features and characteristics

In modern construction, lining as a finishing material today enjoys very wide popularity. This is due to many different factors. This material is distinguished by its reliability and quality, and its installation does not cause any particular difficulties for builders. When carrying out external finishing work, hardware for lining, as a rule, is nails and self-tapping screws. However, if it is necessary to perform a neat installation, with the ability to hide all fasteners, clamps become almost irreplaceable. That is why they are used with equal success for both external and internal finishing work.

A house trimmed with “block house” clapboards with fasteners using clamps

What is a kleimer?

A clamp is a special fastening element in the form of a bracket, mounted with nails or self-tapping screws on a prepared base - lathing, or directly on the wall. The clamp hook firmly fixes the lining, while allowing all fasteners to be hidden. This type of hardware is used for the installation of not only lining, but also plastic PVC panels and MDF elements.

Kleimer

Advantages of using clamps

Hidden fastening of lining with clamps has become so popular for many reasons:

It allows you to significantly speed up the installation process.
Eliminates all risks of damage to materials, splits or cracks associated with the use of standard hardware - nails and self-tapping screws.
Individual and precise selection of fasteners corresponding to the type of lining used.
High reliability of fixation. Boards secured with staples will not begin to play and become loose over time.
Claimers do not require the purchase of additional components. All that is needed for installation are the staples themselves and nails with self-tapping screws.
Coating with an anti-corrosion layer ensures durability and a high degree of reliability of fasteners.
Low cost and availability of clamps, excellent combination of price and quality.

Clamps fixed into the groove of the lining

How to choose the right mounting brackets for lining?

Claypers must be selected based on the type of lining used in finishing the room. It comes in different thicknesses and weights, so the mounting brackets must have the appropriate size and tongue height.

Plastic products and MDF elements can be fixed with clamps 1-2 millimeters high.
Fasteners with a tongue of 3 millimeters are used for finishing materials made of chipboard.
Eurolining is mounted using clamps 4 millimeters high.
When decorating a house with ordinary wooden paneling, 5 mm staples are used.
A block house requires the most powerful fasteners. Here you will need six millimeter clamps.

Claymers of different types

The most reliable staples are 0.5 mm thick and made of galvanized steel. Such clamps are not afraid of corrosion and rust, they are durable and can be used with equal success for both internal and external finishing work.

Calculation of the number of clamps required for work

As for the consumption of fasteners, as practice shows, to securely fasten a square meter of lining you will need about two dozen staples. But it’s still better to buy them with a reserve, since the cost of clamps is low.

The exact calculation of the required number of fasteners is carried out using the following algorithm:

We measure the length of one panel of the lining.
Determine the pitch of the sheathing frame. As a rule, standard values vary from 40 to 60 centimeters.
Divide the first number by the second, adding one to the result.
We multiply the result by the total number of lining panels that are planned to be used for finishing work.
We calculate the number of packages with fasteners based on the number of staples in one. As a standard, each box contains 100 clamps.

How to prepare a frame for mounting material

The video in this article will show you how to nail the lining and how best to position it on the surface.

The direction of the panels can be:

Vertical. In this case, the boards are placed in the direction from floor to ceiling, the room visually becomes narrower and higher.
Horizontal. The slats are placed from one wall to another, the room looks wider, but lower.
At an angle or diagonally. This is a more complex method of laying material, and also with increased consumption.
Combined. A combination of the first three methods in any variant.

With a perfectly flat wooden surface, the lining can be nailed directly to the wall, which is very rare. In other cases, the lathing is made from planed pine slats with a cross-section of 20x40 millimeters (see Lathing for lining according to all the rules), with a pitch of elements up to 50 centimeters.

Tip: Before installation, all wooden parts should be treated with an antiseptic.

The further procedure for installing the frame is as follows:

The first rail is installed vertically in the corner of the room, its position is controlled by a plumb line. To install screws, plastic dowels and wooden spacers are used.
Similarly, another rail is mounted in the opposite corner.
At the top and bottom of the wall, two cords are stretched between the bars to facilitate installation of the panel at the top and bottom.
Horizontal elements are fixed: one under the ceiling, and the other closer to the floor, their position is controlled by a cord.
In increments of 50 centimeters, the remaining slats are installed horizontally.

Advice. To check the correct installation of parts, a cord or rule, which is a flat wooden block, is used, stretched between the outer slats, resting it on horizontal panels located at the top and bottom of the structure.

When the lining is placed horizontally, the slats for the sheathing are installed vertically. For diagonal laying - to the lining at a right angle.

Stage 3 – attaching the trim

We have come to the main stage and will look at how to properly nail the lining. The instructions consist of the following steps:

First, let's figure out how to nail the lining vertically. The first element is placed with a tenon in the corner and secured with nails through the groove; they are located at an angle of 45 degrees so as not to interfere with the joining of the next element.

We drive the nail with gentle blows of the hammer

The work continues simply: the tenon of the next element is inserted into the groove of the previous one, after which the element can be tapped more tightly through a wooden block and secured.

The next plank is nailed in the same way

Now let's look at how to nail the lining in a horizontal position. The most important thing here is the correct location, the groove should always point down and the tenon upward, then moisture will not accumulate in the recesses. The work is carried out from top to bottom, as you need to drive nails into the groove.

Horizontal trim looks great

If we nail the lining over the top, the work will be slightly different. Nails are hammered into the panels in advance so that they do not peek out from the back side. After this, the element is put in place, tapped through a piece of lining, and only after that the nails are hammered through a hammer flush with the finishing surface.

Nails are achieved after sealing the joints

Advice! You can hammer the nails so that they are deeply recessed into the surface, and cover the attachment point with wooden pins.

This option can also be used
. I hope you have figured out how to nail the lining and how to do it correctly. To make it even clearer, below is a diagram that shows the correct position of the nail, when it holds securely and does not interfere with the joining of the next element.

This is what the fastening technology looks like

And one more option on how to nail eurolining. As you know, it has a very wide tenon, so you can fix elements directly through it. The mounting area is covered with the next panel and everything looks great.

Eurolining can be mounted this way

Why install the sheathing?

Fastening the lining to the clamps is carried out only using lathing. Installation directly on the wall is not recommended. The thing is that decorative panels need to be installed on a perfectly flat surface, especially if it concerns a concrete or brick wall, such a result is very difficult to achieve, but with lathing the task is simplified several times.

Of course, you will still have to level the walls before starting work, but there is no need to bring them to perfection. And if you install the panels on an uneven surface, they will begin to bend and deform, which will greatly affect the visual appeal of the finish.

Another important argument in favor of lathing is that it is much easier to attach panels to wooden beams than, for example, to concrete. The lathing contributes to the safety of the panels and their durability. The distance that remains between the finishing material and the wall does not impede air circulation, therefore reducing the risk of mold and mildew.

To increase the durability of the sheathing, it is necessary to treat the wooden beams and the wall itself with an antiseptic or primer. This, even in conditions of high humidity, prevents the boards from rotting and the formation of mold and mildew.

It is important to maintain a distance between beams of about 60 cm in order to preserve the original appearance of the wooden panels and protect them from deformation. When installing planks, for the same reason, to maintain the shape of the planks, it is necessary to use a building level.