How to properly insulate the floor in a dressing room with your own hands?

How to insulate the floor in a dressing room with your own hands? In a Russian bathhouse, there is always one more room where you can relax after the steam room. Such a room protects the bathhouse itself from cold outside air entering through the doors. The comfort in it is also affected by the warm floor.

In such a room, the base does not heat up much. Usually the temperature on the coating does not exceed 30 degrees. To insulate a dressing room with your own hands, you can use different materials:

1. Wood flooring.
2. Concrete screed.
3. Ceramics.

It is also important to create a slope at the base along which water will flow.

Experts say that when arranging the floor in the dressing room, you should stop using materials that can melt, for example, linoleum. When heated, it can also release toxic substances into the air that are harmful to humans.

Insulation of different types of walls

The choice of how to insulate the walls of a bathhouse from the inside depends on the type of material from which it is built:

1. If it is brick, stone or concrete products, thermal protection is required. The fact is that when there is no thermal insulation, the bathhouse will have wet walls and, as a result of temperature fluctuations, they will quickly begin to collapse. The thickness of the insulation should be selected taking into account the parameters of the supporting structures and the climate in the region. Most often, experts recommend a 10-centimeter layer.
2. Is it necessary to insulate a wooden bath? On the one hand, the thermal protection of the building will not hurt, but on the other hand, wood can be called one of the best materials for the walls of the steam room and dressing room. Of course, insulation is required for baths made of timber, with walls no more than 15 centimeters thick. Sauna log buildings are thermally insulated when the cross-section of the log does not exceed 20 centimeters.

On the inside, walls of greater thickness are either not insulated, or thermal protection is provided with waterproofing and clapboard finishing. Lathing is only suitable if there are rubble on the walls.

A few important points

Before we move on to considering materials for insulation, let’s decide what kind of floor will be in your bathhouse.

*We take as a basis the option that you do everything initially. Although, as I wrote above, you can redo the floors. The technology is the same, but the costs are higher.

Depending on the design of your steam room, you should also focus on insulation. After all, what is ideal for wooden floors is sometimes not suitable for concrete. However, this statement also works in the opposite direction. True, there are options that, if used correctly, will serve you equally well in both cases.

In addition, it is worth considering the structure of the floor itself. If the floor of your bathhouse is made according to the “leaky” design (which is most often found in the southern regions), then most likely you should not worry about its insulation. Well, “dry” and concrete floors require an individual approach.

How to insulate a dressing room from the inside with your own hands

Photo. Insulated dressing room made of wood

Most often, foil penofol or isolon is used to independently insulate a wooden dressing room. This material allows you to inexpensively and quickly level out the temperature difference in winter between the street and a heated room. The role of additional heat protection can be played by the interior decoration of the walls and ceiling in the dressing room with wooden clapboard or other suitable materials.

It is worth remembering that the stability of temperature in the steam room and comfort in the dressing room depend on the correct choice of thermal insulation and the quality of the insulation.

It is important to know not only how to properly insulate a dressing room from the inside with your own hands, but also how to insulate a dressing room. As thermal insulation, you should choose a moisture-resistant material; if the choice fell on mineral wool or ecowool, then you need to take care of the vapor and waterproofing of the insulation

Polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, foamed polyurethane foam, mineral wool or glass wool are used as thermal insulation for the dressing room. Foamed polyurethane foam and expanded polystyrene should be considered the ideal material for a dressing room. Due to their high characteristics of moisture resistance and durability, these materials will provide reliable insulation of walls, floors and ceilings of any room.

Which walls are the most durable for a waiting room?

Considering that there is increased condensation in the dressing room, due attention should be paid to the material’s resistance to moisture.
Natural materials withstand moisture best. If it is not possible to purchase just such raw materials, because they are usually expensive, then you can give preference to any material and choose a good product to protect the surface. If it is not possible to purchase just such raw materials, because they are usually expensive, then you can give preference to any material and choose a good surface protection product.

There are quite a lot of similar products in construction stores; you just need to consult with an experienced specialist. Let the bathhouse please you with its aroma and warmth. Only proper preparation for the process of building a bathhouse can make the space complete.

Sequence of insulation work

1. The very first stage of insulation will begin during the assembly of the log house, when an organic fibrous heat insulator will have to be laid between its elements: tow, jute, flax wool, dried moss or a combination of them.

Only after six months can this process be completed using a hammer and caulk (a special spatula), carefully sealing the ends of the fibers into the seam

True, synthetic sealants have also appeared for this purpose, but for a bath it is especially important to maintain environmental safety under conditions of heating and evaporation.

When laying a bathhouse, you can take measures to insulate the floors, especially if they are constructed of concrete. In this case, you will have to perform ground leveling work, pouring sand and expanded clay; pouring the base floor. How to insulate the ceiling and walls of a bathhouse? Insulation is carried out from the inside and outside, but after the process of shrinkage of the structure has been completed. Measures for insulating windows and doors, external and internal cladding work to preserve heat in the bathhouse premises.

Foundation for frame construction

As a foundation for a frame dressing room, a lightweight foundation should be used: pile or shallow foundation.

Creating a shallow foundation is done as follows:

1. The area is being planned and marked.
2. In places where the walls of the building should be located, half-meter trenches with a width of 30 centimeters are dug.
3. Sand is poured into the trench in layers and also compacted layer by layer with water wetting.
4. Formwork is created along the perimeter of the trench.
5. The base of the formwork is reinforced.
6. The concrete solution is poured according to the level of the formwork.
7. After the concrete hardens, waterproofing roofing felt is laid.

How to get the job done

A frame made of timber is installed on the walls, maintaining a certain distance and location depending on the material. Insulation is laid between the slats, then a layer of foil polystyrene foam is attached on top of it, which should face the inside of the dressing room. Then everything is covered with finishing lining, which is sewn onto the sheathing. The variety of existing finishing materials allows you to decorate the interior of the bathhouse to the taste of the owners. Wooden components can be treated with bath varnish or special impregnation. Video instructions for insulating walls and floors in a bathhouse.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=nbsgA68I05Y

Warm floors in the bathhouse: what else should be mentioned

One of the integral parts of the steam room is the drain. Most often, it is the warm floor in a bathhouse with a drain that poses the greatest problem, since combining these underground systems is sometimes quite problematic.

This is especially true for water floors, which do not tolerate slopes well. The latter are necessary for the correct functioning of the drains. So what should we do?

In the case of electric or infrared floors, everything is simple, since they are not susceptible to slopes, and the space for the entrance of the drain pipe is easy to organize: it is enough to ensure that such systems are isolated from each other. A heated floor in a bathhouse sink can be easily installed even if a water-type heating system is used.

Pipes are laid on a flat base, preparatory work is carried out to bring the drain water into the tank (i.e. a pipe is installed). After this, the surface is filled with screed and a slight slope is made. Of course, the uniformity of heat distribution will be slightly impaired, but taking into account the angle of inclination, the losses will be insignificant.

Summarizing all of the above, it should be said that choosing the right heated floor in the bathhouse is an important step. How long it will last depends on how much you will have to spend on its maintenance and whether this method of heating will be self-sustaining at all.

From the point of view of economy, water and infrared floors are most preferable, since they consume little, and their efficiency is no worse than that of cable ones. In terms of cost, the undisputed leader is film floors, since if you count all the costs of preparatory work, then they require the least investment.

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How to properly insulate a door

Door insulation technology

Large heat losses occur through door cracks, so you must take care of the thermal insulation of the wooden or iron door leading to the bathhouse.

Felt, basalt wool, and foil insulation can be used as insulation. There are several ways to insulate a door; below we present the most common:

1. A frame of 15x20 mm slats is mounted around the perimeter of the door, which should be 10 cm away from the edge of the door leaf.
2. A piece of hardboard is placed inside the frame and stapled.
3. Felt or other material is pulled over the top of the frame and secured with nails, which should be 5 cm larger than the frame itself.

Windows and doors

The process of insulating a wooden bathhouse from the inside also includes thermal insulation of door and window openings, since cracks in them will inevitably become sources of drafts and unnecessary heat loss. In order to reduce them to zero, the design of doors and windows itself must be thought out at the stage of design and construction of the bathhouse.

How to properly insulate a bathhouse: window openings

Even at the design and construction stages of a bath structure, it is necessary to think about the safe installation of windows. It is best to opt for sealed double-glazed windows, as this will ensure maximum insulation of the windows.

In the absence of the opportunity to install this type of windows, you should carefully consider inserting glass into existing ones.

It is recommended to use high-quality silicone sealant for this work.

Information. Installing windows slightly lower than their usual location will minimize heat loss.

Do not forget that the presence of a window in the bathhouse is simply necessary. This is due not only to concern for the health of bathhouse visitors, but also to the materials themselves, since without proper air exchange the appearance of fungus is simply inevitable.

Door

After a hot steam bath, bathhouse visitors go to the dressing room to get dressed and leave the room.
Some believe that insulating the walls inside the bathhouse and inside the dressing room is the only thing needed for a comfortable stay in it. However, this is not at all true. The fact is that an uninsulated door will allow drafts to pass through and will itself become a source of cold. When sweat flows from your face and a cold wind blows on your feet, you can get a cold.

Attention! It is worth remembering that it is undesirable to weigh the door too much, as this is fraught with sagging and further damage.

A very important question is how to insulate the partition in the bathhouse, as well as the doors in it. The insulation material must be lightweight, withstand temperature changes, as well as high air humidity.

Let's look at how to insulate a bathhouse door with your own hands using ecowool, since it is resistant to various temperatures and high humidity, and is also an environmentally friendly material.

For insulation you will need:

1. Ecowool;
2. Wooden blocks;
3. Nails;
4. Hardboard sheet.

According to experts, this is the most reliable way to insulate a bathhouse door.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

1. First of all, wooden blocks are attached to the edges of the door so that a frame is formed. It should be located approximately 1-1.5 cm from the edge of the insulating sheet;
2. Next, using nails, the ecowool sheet is nailed to the frame. It is worth noting that the insulation material must be rolled in two layers;
3. A cavity should form inside the frame into which a sheet of hardboard must be placed;
4. The door is covered with wooden paneling or other material.

If the insulation is installed correctly, when closing the door, a small part of the sheet should be placed on the door block, thereby completely eliminating the entry of cold air into the room.

When answering the question of how to insulate the front door in a bathhouse, let’s not forget about the jamb. The simplest way to insulate a jamb is to add insulation around the perimeter of the door. Felt is usually used for these purposes, but today there are a lot of more modern materials.

So, in order to insulate a door frame you need:

1. Cut the insulation into thin strips;
2. Cut a strip, the width of which should be at least 2 cm, to completely cover the internal perimeter of the jamb;
3. The insulation, folded in two layers, is mounted at a minimum distance from the door leaf on the fold side. It must be secured with lath and nails.

Information. In 90 percent of cases, the ineffectiveness of a steam room is due to the gap between the door and the threshold.

This is why it is strongly recommended to install low doors with high thresholds.

Insulation algorithm

Before starting work, you should prepare all materials and tools. The master will need:

• beam lath;
• foil;
• self-tapping screws;
• electrical tape and aluminum tape;
• roll paper;
• insulation;
• knife;
• screwdriver;
• building level.

It is important to follow the sequence - first insulate the ceiling and finish with the floor. All work begins with initial surface preparation

It must be cleaned of dust, mold and dirt, all holes must be sealed with polyurethane foam. Broken parts should be replaced with new ones.

Installation of insulation on the ceiling

Step-by-step algorithm for proper ceiling insulation:

1. Covering the ceiling with overlapping roll paper.
2. Fastening the bars on top of the paper. The distance between them depends on the size of the insulation.
3. Covering the frame surface with foil. Necessary for reflecting heat into the room. The joints are sealed with aluminum tape.
4. Checking for leaks. You need to make sure that all joints are securely sealed and there are no gaps.
5. Laying the insulator in the formed cells between the bars.
6. Finishing the front part with clapboard.

It is recommended to lay the insulation in two layers with a slight offset. This will hide the joints and eliminate the possibility of a draft.

Installation of insulation on the wall

Work on thermal insulation of walls is similar to insulation of the ceiling

But in the process it is important not to forget about the ventilation inlets

1. Fastening the slats to the surface. They should be in the form of narrow strips so that temperature changes do not change their shape. The panels must be treated with a special bath product.
2. Foil laying. You can fasten it using a construction stapler.
3. Laying thermal insulation.
4. Clapboard finishing.

When laying, it is important to leave a gap between the heat insulator and the lining. Usually 2 cm is enough for sufficient ventilation

The finishing part is stuffed horizontally. This helps reduce heat loss.

Installation of insulation on the floor

The last step in insulating the dressing room is laying insulation on the floor

A large amount of heat escapes through it, especially in a building on stilts, so it is important to make high-quality thermal insulation. Most often, expanded clay is used as a material, which prevents the formation of fungus and condensation.

It is also environmentally friendly and lightweight.

In the case of wooden floors, the material is placed between the joists. When pouring concrete floors, expanded clay is placed between each layer.

Insulation of the floor in the dressing room is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. Filling the initial layer. Waiting for it to dry.
2. After complete hardening, lay a layer of expanded clay 10 cm thick.
3. Expanded clay chips are sprinkled between the layers of concrete.
4. Pouring a layer of concrete onto a reinforced lattice.
5. Execution of cement-sand screed.

It is also important to insulate doors with window openings. They are usually treated with a special silicone sealant.

The outer door is insulated with natural material.

Indoor arrangement

This room can be provided with convection heating in winter or other heating can be connected. There must be a steam outlet.

Insulation

If the floor is wooden, then the standard insulation technology is as follows:

• The subfloor is attached underneath the joists;
• wooden elements are treated with an antiseptic composition to prevent damage to the wood;
• a vapor barrier film is laid, releasing excess water and protecting the insulation from getting wet;
• the selected insulation is placed (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, etc.);
• waterproofing material (roofing felt or film) is laid down;
• boards are laid.

If the floor is tiled, then an expanded clay concrete screed is made under the tiles. The tiles are laid on this screed. However, it is better to install a heating system to avoid a cool floor.

For internal insulation of the walls of a log dressing room, foil foam, expanded polystyrene or mineral wool are used.

For insulation from the inside, sheathing bars treated with an antiseptic are attached to the wall in half-meter increments. Foiled polystyrene foam is attached with a stapler to the walls and bars with a shiny layer inside the room. Electrical communications are carried out in plastic corrugation. The lining is attached on top of the bars.

Insulation from the outside under the facing board is carried out as usual: the lathing is made using bars with a cross-section of 50 by 50 millimeters, a forty is placed below and above, to which the bars are attached using metal fasteners. Mineral wool is laid between the beams, then a vapor barrier is made. A sheathing is made on top for the cladding. For exterior cladding, you can also use different types of siding. This solution is used for brick or other non-wooden walls. To attach siding, it is advisable to use specially designed fasteners and fittings.

Ceiling insulation is similar to floor insulation. There is insulation between the joists, and polyethylene on a foil base is overlapped with thin strips underneath. The joints are sealed with tape and the whole thing is covered from below with a beautiful lining.

If the ceiling serves as a ceiling and is the floor for the floor above, then a high-quality floor covering is laid on top of the joists. And if this is a little-used attic, the insulation over the joists is covered with boards, along which, if necessary, you can move and store various utensils.

Floor insulation

Expanded clay is a natural material, can be used in bulk or poured with concrete

Since the dressing room is used for changing clothes, people often stand on the floor with their bare feet. To protect health and ensure comfort, insulation is done. For concrete surfaces, you can make a wooden covering, but it is better to provide full thermal insulation.

It is necessary to choose a material that allows air to pass through well. Otherwise, condensation will accumulate, which can lead to the formation of harmful microorganisms. Expanded polystyrene, penoplex, polystyrene foam, and expanded perlite can be used as insulation. Polystyrene foam and polystyrene are laid on the subfloor. Perlite must be mixed with cement mortar. Glass wool, expanded clay, gravel, and boiler slag can also be used for insulation.

If the floor is insulated in the dressing room of a wooden bath, it is necessary to make a layer of waterproofing. The most popular type is roofing felt. Insulation is laid on top of it, and then another layer of roofing material. The finishing is made of wood

It is important to first treat the wood with special compounds against the formation of fungus and mold. Glass wool and stone wool, polystyrene foam, and expanded polystyrene are used as insulation for wooden floors.

The entire bathhouse can have a heated floor. There are different options:

Warm water floor. Placed on a concrete foundation. This is a safe and effective heating method, but you need to take into account that you will have to install a boiler. Electric floor

With this method, it is important to carefully make waterproofing to ensure safe operation. Cable and film construction can be installed

In the first case, energy consumption increases, but the system reliability is higher. The films are harmless and have high strength. The cost of film construction is higher than cable construction.

Features of the problem

The dressing room is considered a mandatory section in any bathhouse, even the smallest one. It is the link between the street and the steam room. A person entering a bathhouse first of all enters this room. Here he undresses before the procedure and dresses after its completion. As a rule, it is in this part of the bathhouse that the furnace firebox is located. In addition, if it is necessary to save space, a rest area (rest area) is also equipped in the waiting room.

What conditions arise in the waiting room? The presence of an entrance door means that the frosty winter air rushes into the bathhouse along with the person, and dirt and moisture from the street are carried onto the shoes. Another door opens the steam room, and superheated water steam rushes out from there, which, reaching colder surfaces, condenses in the form of water droplets. Finally, smoke enters the room from the furnace door.

In general, these conditions suggest the appearance of the following factors affecting the floor covering:

• significant temperature gradient;
• steam;
• moisture;
• dirt;
• high temperature near the stove and in the area of ​​the entrance to the steam room;
• mechanical load (wear and tear when walking in shoes).

All this is important, since during the arrangement it will be necessary to provide and comply with the following parameters:

• resistance to low and high temperatures, as well as sudden changes;
• resistance to steam;
• moisture resistance;
• wear resistance;
• the ability to effectively clean dirt;
• no slipping of wet feet.

A man, after a steam room and shower, is hot and steps on the flooring with his bare feet. If it gets cold, then it won’t take long for you to develop colds and joint pathologies. Based on this condition, floor insulation in the bathhouse vestibule is an important design element, and the floor covering must have increased heat capacity. Other equally important requirements include sanitary and fire safety standards.

Floor insulation

Heat leaves the bathhouse not only through the walls, but also through the floor. Expanded clay is used for thermal insulation of floors. This is an inexpensive, effective and reliable material. Although you can use slag for work, expanded clay provides a better degree of environmental safety and has less weight.

If the floor in the bathhouse is concrete, then when installing it, each layer is laid with expanded clay. Here's how to insulate the floor in a bathhouse with your own hands:

1. When pouring concrete, you need to wait until it is completely dry.
2. A plastic film is placed on the concrete.
3. Then you need to pour expanded clay. It is believed that the thickness of the layer should be twice that of the walls. If the room allows, it is advisable to increase it even more.
4. Subsequently, they are laid out on a reinforced lattice.
5. At the end of laying the floor, a concrete-sand screed is made.

Insulation of the floor in the bathhouse is carried out, if it is wooden, by pouring this material between the joists.

Before laying expanded clay, you need to lay a layer of roofing felt or vapor barrier film. When thinking about how to properly insulate a bathhouse, we must not forget about the reflective and vapor barrier layers.

When using expanded clay for thermal insulation, you need to take into account that its layer must have a flat surface. In order to ensure this, guides are used: a profile is attached horizontally to the floor, with the help of which it will be possible to control the uniformity of the pouring of the material.

Sometimes the bathhouse has an earthen floor. Here are step-by-step instructions on how to make it insulated:

1. It is necessary to trample the surface, making the earth denser. 2. It is recommended to impregnate the walls with a waterproofing compound. 3. Add a ten-centimeter layer of sand to the soil, pour water over it and compact it. 4. Lay the sand with roofing felt

It is important to ensure a 15 cm overlap on the walls. You can fasten the sheets using tape

For concrete floor

When thinking about how to insulate a bathhouse from the inside, you can use another method for high-quality thermal insulation of the floor.

Here's how to insulate a bathhouse from below:

1. In place of the floor, a pit 50 centimeters deep is dug.
2. Lay out a 5 cm layer of sand.
3. Next you need to put 20 centimeters of polystyrene foam. Now you need to prepare a mixture of concrete with foam chips (1:1). And put a five-centimeter layer.
4. Waterproofing is laid on top. This can be a layer of roofing material or a special vapor barrier film.
5. Place a mixture of vermiculite and concrete. It is prepared in a one to one ratio. The thickness should be 5 centimeters.
6. The top layer is a reinforced concrete screed.

Selection of materials

The choice of material must be approached especially carefully, since in the bathhouse (both in the washing room and in the steam room) there is constant high humidity and sudden changes in temperature. Not every material can withstand such harsh operating conditions. Therefore, experts recommend choosing materials with a cell-like structure for floor insulation. Among the variety of construction products, foam plastic meets the serious requirements for floor thermal insulation. Therefore, insulation with foam plastic or penoplex is the most popular method for thermal insulation of floors in rooms with high humidity.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=nH8EUT14t0Q

Wood floor insulation

The floor in the bathhouse can be either concrete or wood. Therefore, each type of floor needs to be worked according to a specific plan. If the steam room of the bathhouse already has a wooden floor, then the entire flooring will have to be removed again. The work should be carried out in the following sequence:

1. Remove floorboards and baseboards. When dismantling, it is advisable to sign all the elements so that you don’t have to look for the right part later.
2. Check all elements. If damage is found in some place, it means that parts need to be replaced there, disposing of the damaged elements.
3. Extend the lower edges of the wooden joists using blocks. This will be the basis for the rough ceiling.
4. Lay the rough floor using inexpensive material, leaving a gap between the floor itself and the joists. The gap should be about 10 cm wide.
5. Lay the subfloor using leftovers and scraps of boards. The boards do not need to be placed closely, otherwise they may become deformed later.
6. Form a vapor barrier layer (if there is a high groundwater level under the bathhouse) from roofing felt. If the groundwater is low, a vapor barrier membrane is used instead of roofing felt.
7. Install waterproofing. The waterproofing layer should overlap and even extend onto the walls. Waterproofing material in rolls is also laid with an overlap and the panels are fixed with tape. It is desirable that the layers of hydro- and vapor barrier do not mix, so they additionally need to be secured with staples.
8. Place thermal insulation material in the niches between the wooden joists. The distance from the top of the beams to the material should be about 2 cm (for ventilation).
9. Add another waterproofing layer (membrane) to prevent moisture from getting on the insulation.
10. Lay the boards and baseboards, cutting off the excess waterproofing layer.

Insulation of concrete floor

Concrete floors are insulated a little differently. According to the rules, it is insulated after pouring the rough screed:

1. Lay out the waterproofing material (strong polyethylene film). You definitely need to go on the walls (at least 5 cm), if there is excess, then it will be cut off. All overlaps are additionally secured with tape.
2. Lay insulation. Foam boards are secured using wooden frames made of blocks and self-tapping screws.
3. Fill the foam with a special solution with a thickness of at least 20 mm and lay a reinforcing mesh on top.
4. Pour the rough self-leveling screed (only after the previous layer has completely dried). The mixture for such a screed can be purchased at any hardware store. The thickness of the self-leveling layer varies from 6 to 8 cm. To remove air bubbles, use a special needle roller for leveling.

Warm floor

Knowing how to insulate the floor in a bathhouse, you can safely get to work. In a large bathhouse, the best option is to install a warm water floor. This is more complicated and more expensive, but the convenience and comfort of the bathhouse owners is guaranteed. First you need to prepare the surface for all upcoming work and eliminate all floor imperfections. Then they act according to the following algorithm:

1. Place insulation.
2. Fix the damper tape around the entire perimeter of the bath.
3. Place the reinforcing mesh and lay out the pipes. In this case, the distance from the wall to the pipe should not exceed 100 mm.
4. Connect the pipeline to the heating system using manifolds and secure all connections.
5. Test the operation of the system.
6. If everything is fine, the pipes can be filled with cement mortar. First, pour the rough screed, and then the finishing self-leveling mixture.

After the solution has completely dried, you can lay the finishing floor covering on top.

Insulating the floor in a bathhouse is a completely feasible task for any person who is at least a little familiar with construction.

We insulate the steam room

The steam room in the bathhouse requires special attention. After all, it is here that the highest level of moisture and elevated temperature are observed during operation. Therefore, insulation, waterproofing and finishing of this room must be done with special materials.

The ceiling of the steam room is subject to maximum heating during operation (up to 150 °C). Therefore, the question of how to insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse is solved by using materials with high heat resistance.

If there is no attic or attic, insulation is installed in the following order:

• wooden lattice made of timber on the ceiling boards;
• sheathing elements;
• thermal insulation;
• vapor barrier.

If there is an upper room - an attic, an attic - the insulation scheme looks slightly different. A layer of clay at least 2 cm thick is applied to the ceiling boards. This will ensure moisture retention. All small holes, joints between boards, etc. are filled with bulk material. Typically, expanded clay or wood chips are used for this. The thickness of this layer is at least 20 cm.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=1BMehi4cwNU

A box-shaped base of rafter supports is mounted on the ceiling around the chimney. This will provide a gap of 20 cm between the pipe and the heat insulator, required by fire safety. A non-flammable heat insulator such as glass wool or mineral wool is placed inside the box. The main surface of the ceiling is covered with a layer of mineral heat insulator.

Insulation of the ceiling in a steam bath room

The work on creating thermal protection in the bathhouse is completed by insulating the ceiling.
The complexity and order of work depends on the design of the ceiling itself. It can be with or without an attic. If the bathhouse has an attic or attic, the insulation process should proceed as follows: the board is coated with a 20 cm layer of clay. This material copes well with the task of retaining moisture. Wooden chips must be poured into the cracks between the boards. If they are not available, then you can use any other material that provides good thermal insulation. For example, you can backfill with expanded clay. But the thickness of the layer of this material must be at least 200 mm.

Insulating a bathhouse without an attic

A bathhouse without an attic, made of logs or a panel building, must be insulated inside in a completely different way:
first, vapor barrier material is laid, then insulation is attached, onto which the beams are sewn. Then the shelf boards are nailed.

When insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse, special attention must be paid to the junction of the pipe and the insulation. To ensure that fire safety standards are not violated, it is necessary to make an indent of 200 mm between the pipe and the heat-insulating material.

This problem is easily solved by creating a box from rafter legs. It will be a barrier separating the pipe and the insulation. The space inside the box can be filled with fire-resistant insulation, such as stone wool.

It is optimal if the roof of the bathhouse is designed in such a way that there are no places through which warm air can escape from the room and cold air can enter from outside. Insulating the ceiling has another goal - to avoid the formation of condensation. Condensation is converted into moisture, which, in turn, is the main enemy for most building materials.

Please note that not all materials are suitable for ceiling insulation work. It is worth refusing to use materials such as chipboard, plywood, and fiberboard for thermal insulation. They can not only become deformed during operation, but also release substances harmful to human health when exposed to high temperatures.

How to choose?

But the choice of insulation material cannot be uniform for the entire bathhouse as a whole. There are too many differences between individual rooms. In addition to the washing and steam rooms, you also need to place a locker room and a dressing room inside (often these rooms are combined into one if there is not enough space). The air in the vestibule is always cooler than in other compartments.

Paints and plasters, which manufacturers proudly call heat-protective, do not provide a high enough level of thermal insulation, and can only be an auxiliary element in it.

Bulk material is used mainly for roofing and flooring. It is much more difficult to lay it inside the walls, and for this you definitely need a well masonry. Brick dressing rooms are mainly insulated with foam plastic due to its ideal compliance with the required parameters and affordable price.

Frame fastening of insulation on a wooden beam is carried out for finishing:

• clapboard;
• plastic panels;
• boards;
• corrugated sheets and siding.

The installation pitch of the frame is determined by the width of the cladding being created. Considering the inevitable crumbling of foam when cutting, a certain supply of material should be reserved.

If the air humidity in the sauna waiting room is relatively low, it is permissible to use mineral wool. They attach it in the same way as polystyrene foam. If the spaces between the racks are occupied by communications, a layer of unedged board is placed above the frame, and thermal protection is mounted on it.

Given the insignificant thickness, such a coating will allow the most efficient use of useful areas. Where heating devices are attached, penofol should be left unfinished. It can also be used as part of underfloor heating. When placed under pipes or electrical cables, penofol increases heating efficiency.

When forming a slab foundation, the dressing room is insulated using wooden logs. The timber is connected to the slab using self-tapping screws; the gaps must be filled 100%.

In the case of a pile foundation, installation of all structures is carried out on beams made of steel or wood. They are treated, respectively, with antiseptics or anti-corrosion mixtures. The insulating layer must be covered with a vapor barrier in the form of a membrane that stops the condensation of steam inside the thermal protection.

The requirements for thermal insulation in a steam room will be significantly higher, but the following will help reduce the need for it:

• installation of solid double-glazed windows;
• formation of a high threshold with a low door;
• purchasing not a simple stove, but a heater;
• carefully thought out bathhouse configuration;
• high-quality ventilation.

Waterproofing material for a steam room should easily withstand even very intense heat. Kraft paper copes well with this task. The walls of the steam rooms are insulated with sphagnum (placed in the gaps of the crowns) and tow (bridging the cracks). Actually, insulation is achieved using building moss, extruded polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and penoplex.

The advantages of synthetic materials are:

• resistance to mechanical destruction;
• long period of work;
• excellent heat retention.

It is chosen both because of its excellent practical qualities and because of its low cost. Expanded clay is also inexpensive, but it will have to be poured at least 30 cm inside the walls, which significantly complicates the work.

Ceilings can be insulated with clay; if they are filled with sawdust, soil must be placed on top of the insulation layer to ensure fire safety. Among modern solutions, experts recommend basalite, isospan, or overlapping layers of simple foil.

Review of materials used for bath insulation

To insulate a bathhouse, various materials are used, the choice of which depends on the purpose of the room (rest room, steam room, washing room, etc.), as well as on the material of the building walls. But in any case, insulating materials are selected based on the following characteristics:

• minimal hygroscopicity. The material should not absorb moisture and serve as a medium for the development of mold cultures;
• safety. When heated, there should be no emission of harmful substances;
• ability to withstand high temperature and humidity without deformation. The absence of shrinkage of the material is the key to the tightness of the thermal circuit;
• financial accessibility and the possibility of self-installation.

The most popular materials for insulating baths made of timber and logs

1. Rolled felt and jute.
2. Tow.
3. Moss.

The best natural inter-crown insulation for log baths. They are environmentally friendly and effective, but are flammable and hygroscopic. Ideal for use in dry areas of the bathhouse: relaxation room, billiard room, etc.

Natural insulation for a wooden house

Universal insulation for baths made of wood, brick, aerated concrete

Of all the above materials, foil insulation is in greatest demand on the market. The combination of quick, convenient installation, environmental safety and cost-effectiveness makes these universal materials in demand not only for new construction, but also for the reconstruction of baths and saunas, including those with adjacent walls to a residential building.

A separate category of foil insulation is the new generation of thermal insulating PIR boards.

Ventilation

The ventilation system allows you to maintain the quality of the air in the bathhouse, the correct thermal conditions, drying, and ventilation. Ventilation provides air exchange. It is carried out through ventilation ducts. Ventilation can also be provided by opening windows.

The size of the ventilation ducts is about 15x20 cm. The first duct is the supply duct, located next to the firebox, at a height of less than half a meter from the floor. Another channel, an exhaust channel, is made on the opposite wall at a distance of about two meters from the floor. A fan can be installed in this channel to speed up ventilation. The channels are closed most of the time with valves of the appropriate size.

The floors in a home bath are cold, although at a level of 0.5 m it is already hot. how to fix the situation?

Boss Heat Thinker (8684) 9 years ago Organize the intake of air for combustion in the stove from under the floor.
Then the cold air from under the floor will go into the firebox, through the vent, and the warm air from the steam room will fall down, under the floor. You can see the movement of air in the steam room during heating using scented smoke candles. It's educational and interesting. Ventilation holes with valves are made for natural air circulation in the bathhouse, so as not to breathe in your sweat. A supply cross-section of 100 square meters is divided above or below the stove. cm, and in the corner opposite from the stove, under the top shelf, there is an exhaust hood with a cross-section 2 times larger than the inlet. The valves regulate the intensity of air exchange.

Within an hour, the entire volume in the steam room should change up to 6 times.

Igor Schneider Master (2182) 9 years ago

put 2 small windows .. one in the area of ​​the stove .. near the floor ... the second in the opposite corner .. then the air will circulate .. if necessary, they can be closed ..

Oleg Stashkov Expert (432) 9 years ago

look at the foundation, the ventilation holes are most likely open for the winter, they are closed, and when I go into the bathhouse, I pour a couple of ladles of hot water onto the floor, it becomes much warmer

CSUNDR Master (2065) 9 years ago

Without changing the drainage system, the water will not blow through the drain slots, only after drainage of the waste water, using the top layer of at least the simplest Lenolium with rolled and hemmed edges, let's allow it into a horizontal gutter and drain the water through a pipe.

Unobtrusive Advice Enlightened (29514) 9 years ago

First, you need to insulate the foundation outside the bathhouse (make a heap, or cover the perimeter of the bathhouse with snow) Secondly, arrange an air exchange of warm and cold air (as warm air is always up, and cold is always down), you can supply steam, you can pour hot water on the floor, You can turn on the fan, but it’s better to place the stove closer to the floor, or make the heater lower, then when you pour water on the stones, steam will flow along the floor…. Enjoy Your Bath!

Dima Dima Expert (442) 9 years ago

It's all fucking blowing from the floor

UXIN Guru (4860) 9 years ago

the stove vent should not be higher than the floor, this is a huge mistake of many, the stove vent should be flush with the floor, even lower, the higher it is, the colder the floor!

Severe Generally Enlightened (22596) 9 years ago

A friend of mine encountered a similar problem. I took two plastic pipes (remnants of the F110 sewer), two computer fans (12 Volts, consumption is minimal). Fence from above - flow down. Problem solved.

Insulating the doorway

And of course, the proper effect of warming the dressing room will not be achieved without reliable insulation of the doorway.

And of course, the proper effect of warming the dressing room will not be achieved without reliable insulation of the doorway. A large amount of heat, so valuable for a bathhouse, will escape through an unprotected opening and cracks.

The most common option, in this case, is to install a thermal curtain. For this purpose, a sealing frame is mounted inside the dressing room on the door block. It is made of timber, which is wrapped in insulation. As a result of installation, a soft fabric is attached to the frame, which serves as a screen.

Lighting and furniture

There should be no bright light in the waiting room; the light bulbs should be covered. The light should be dim, promote relaxation and create comfort. Therefore, the lighting is preferably dim and unobtrusive. At the same time, of course, the level of illumination must remain sufficient. Modern lighting technology widely uses LED lamps. This type of device allows you to create very flexible and original solutions for lighting design of rooms.

Chandeliers with different types of lampshades are suitable for the dressing room; it is also possible to install wall lamps. If there are places in the dressing room where increased illumination is required, for example, a mini-kitchen unit, a table for making tea, it is worth highlighting local lamps to illuminate such an area.

In addition to lamps, it is worth paying attention to the placement of sockets and switches, since they are not installed in the washing room and steam room. Since the dressing room is also a relaxation room, this factor should be taken into account when furnishing

Of course, the size of the room determines a lot. If the dressing room is small, the set of furniture there is small: a table, stools or chairs, a hanger, a cabinet. If there is more space, then it is desirable to have a sofa, a comfortable wardrobe, a shoe closet, and a mirror. In addition to furniture, it is not prohibited to install a TV or stereo in the dressing room. The main thing is that these devices do not interfere with the rest and recovery of the body after bath procedures

Since the dressing room is also a relaxation room, this factor should be taken into account in the furniture. Of course, the size of the room determines a lot. If the dressing room is small, the set of furniture there is small: a table, stools or chairs, a hanger, a cabinet. If there is more space, then it is desirable to have a sofa, a comfortable wardrobe, a shoe closet, and a mirror. In addition to furniture, it is not prohibited to install a TV or stereo in the dressing room. The main thing is that these devices do not interfere with the rest and recovery of the body after bath procedures.

If the layout is done correctly, then the room must have a bench and a table.

Functions of the waiting room

This room in the bathhouse can perform different functions, but the main ones are:

• Water procedures after the steam room. Everyone knows that after a steam room you need to plunge into cold water or douse yourself with it, as this has a positive effect on human health. If the bathhouse does not have a pool, then you can douse yourself with water from a barrel in the dressing room.
• Shower room. There you can wash off the dust in a day and don’t have to go to the bathhouse.
• Storage of utensils. You can store smells, gangs, brooms, etc.

Therefore, this room must be built as comfortable and warm as possible, so that you can relax there after a steam room, drink tea or douse yourself with ice water.

Why does condensation form in the dressing room?

There are many reasons for the formation of condensation in a bathhouse, the main ones being:

• Insufficient ventilation of the room;
• Increased humidity in the space;
• Improper thermal insulation of walls, floors and ceilings, as well as windows and doors;
• Regularly high air temperatures, which especially affects the occurrence of condensation in winter;
• Incorrect and ill-conceived ventilation in the bathhouse.

Ventilation hole diagram

All these factors negatively affect the level of condensation, forming moisture on the walls, ceiling and floor, which can adversely affect the quality and strength of the materials from which the bath vaults are built.

Scheme of condensation formation in the dressing room

To avoid side effects from exposure to condensation on surfaces, you should know what to do to save the room. Special tools, equipment, or simply proper care of the bathhouse space will help with this.

The danger of condensation for a bath

Condensation is not just innocent moisture on surfaces. Due to this phenomenon, the following may occur:

• Rotting of materials;
• Fungus formation on different surfaces;
• Destruction of building materials from the inside and, as a result, the emergency condition of the bathhouse;
• Dryness of wooden beams, as well as loss of their quality and overall structure.

All these moments are extremely unpleasant for those who have erected a wonderful structure for a pleasant pastime in their private sector.

Scheme of insulation of various rooms in the bathhouse

Subtleties of the procedure: from A to Z

It doesn’t matter exactly when you decided to insulate the steam room - at the stage of building the bathhouse itself or after completion of construction. The main thing is to strictly follow the sequence of insulation measures and do not forget about the basic rules of insulation:

• Waterproofing is an essential part of the insulation process. Even if the material does not absorb moisture or form condensation, take full care of the waterproofing layer. Over time, pores may form in the insulation, and water risks “reaching” the outer coating of the bathhouse and accelerating its destruction.
• It is better not to skimp on material for insulating the steam room. The service life depends on this. Basalt will last 30 years, and foam plastic will last only 5-7.
• It is better to secure the insulation with screws or nails. Today there is a large selection of special adhesives, some of them are designed for very high temperatures, but, as practice shows, nothing more reliable and cheaper than a simple nail has yet been invented.
• It is imperative to insulate the floor. If there is no concrete screed, one is made. Top filling with cement or concrete will help extend the service life of the entire steam room and its base, in particular.
• The materials used for working in the bath should be marked that they can be used at elevated temperatures. When heated, some products emit substances that are caustic and dangerous to people. To avoid putting yourself and your loved ones at risk, always read the information on the packaging of the products you purchase.
• The interior lining of the steam room is not painted or varnished. Heating will contribute to the release of toxic fumes, and constant changes in temperature inside the room will lead to the layer becoming externally unattractive and will have to be renewed regularly.

Why is thermal insulation made?

Do you need to insulate floors? Insulation of the base is an important component of insulation work in a bathhouse. The stability of the temperature regime in the wash room, dressing room, steam room, etc. will depend on the quality of the floor insulation in the future. Water has high thermal conductivity and therefore tends to cool quickly. To prevent a sharp drop in temperature in a log or brick bathhouse, the base is insulated using non-hygroscopic materials.

Why are timber houses insulated? Reducing heat loss in wet rooms is equally important for both a wooden and a brick house. Why? The bathhouse is one of those types of buildings where a high temperature must be constantly maintained.

Since the humidity level in it is always quite high, when it comes into contact with a cold floor, the water will quickly cool, which will lead to a general decrease in the temperature in the room.

Outside

It does not allow water to pass through, is resistant to temperature changes, durable and has low thermal conductivity.

Next, about insulating the walls of a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands.

This is why penoplex is considered one of the best synthetic materials.

To insulate walls made of logs and logs, natural materials are most often used; in turn, for a frame or bathhouse made of blocks, penoplex is ideal.

Attention! Penoplex has average fire resistance, and during combustion it releases toxic substances. That is why it is unacceptable to use it for internal insulation of a bathhouse.

Let's look at the process of insulating a bathhouse from the outside step by step:

Let's look at the process of insulating a bathhouse from the outside step by step:

1. The first step is to clean the walls of any kind of contamination, such as paint residues, dust or dirt;
2. Next, the surface of the wall should be coated with a primer in two layers;
3. When the applied layers have dried, the vapor barrier layer can be fixed;
4. Next, glue is applied to the foam sheet; the thickness of the insulation layer should be at least 7 cm;
5. The sheet is attached to the wall and additionally secured with “fungi”;
6. After the wall surface is completely covered with the first layer of insulation, you can proceed to arranging the second layer. To do this, the foam sheets must be placed in such a way as to overlap the seams of the first layer;
7. When the glue is completely dry, you can begin sealing the gaps with sealant or foam;
8. Next, you should strengthen the structure with a fiberglass mesh attached on top of the second layer with glue;
9. The final stage is plastering the walls, as well as further finishing.

Don't forget about wind protection.

To protect the walls and the thermal insulation itself from precipitation, wind and condensation, waterproof, windproof membranes are used.

This protects the wall and thermal insulation.

They are laid on the outside of the insulating layer directly under the building's cladding and secured using a construction stapler.

What materials are suitable for internal thermal insulation?

1. Non-toxic. In a bathhouse, under the influence of extremely high temperatures, harmful substances contained in the material are quickly released, so toxic insulation can cause poisoning.
2. Non-hygroscopic. You should select a material that does not absorb moisture.

The insulation for a bath should be:

• resistant to high temperatures and steam;
• fireproof;
• environmentally friendly;
• durable.

There are several groups of insulation materials that can be used in a bathhouse:

1. Organic. These are natural materials that can ignite from high temperatures, so they only insulate the rest room and dressing room.
2. Mineral. These materials are suitable for insulating the steam room and any other parts of the bathhouse.

In accordance with the above requirements, the best heat insulators for a bath are described in the table:

Insulating the dressing room with your own hands

The choice of material for the interior decoration of the room depends largely on what function the dressing room will perform. Whether you just want to arrange a hallway or a dressing room here, or maybe a rest room, the decoration should be appropriate. In addition, the materials depend on the material of the walls of the bathhouse itself.

Mineral wool floor insulation scheme

In a log bathhouse, the dressing room is covered with clapboard, covering it with an antiseptic to prevent rotting and increase the fire safety of the room. Brick walls are usually plastered.

After this, the walls can be finished with tiles, stone, or treated with latex-based paint that has good adhesion and moisture resistance.

You shouldn’t forget about insulating the door and floor in the dressing room. Please note that there is high humidity in the room. Here, water often gets on the floor, which can cause rapid rotting of the floor, so it is necessary to install water drainage and waterproofing under the floor. You can put a layer of insulation under the boards.

Purpose of the room in front of the steam room

In compact baths, the dressing room mainly serves as a changing room, where there is some special furniture. In structures of a substantial size, the dressing room can be:

The process of insulating walls in the dressing room

• a fairly spacious room, equipped at the request of the owners;
• combining a shower and a swimming pool in a bathhouse;
• hydrobox.

When choosing insulation material and floor covering, you need to pay attention to the functions of the dressing room and always remember that this room is exposed to strong moisture.

Insulation for walls

Expanded polystyrene is stable, does not rot, does not allow moisture to pass through

Usually baths are made of wood. It is environmentally friendly, and it is easy to breathe in such a room. Less commonly, buildings are made of brick, foam blocks or cinder blocks. The latter material already has good thermal insulation properties due to the porosity of the block structure, but in winter the walls freeze. Brick buildings are practically never made.

The following are used as insulation materials for the wall:

• mineral wool;
• fiberglass;
• Styrofoam.

It is recommended to make a layer of polystyrene foam on top. It is highly durable, cannot be compressed, lasts a long time and does not rot.

A timber frame is attached to the walls. Each part is placed at a certain distance, which depends on the insulation material. A heat insulator and a layer of foil polystyrene foam are placed between the resulting slats. The finishing layer is applied on top.

Brief overview of types and brands of foil insulation

Aluminum foil is an excellent sealant and reflector. These qualities contribute to both rapid heating of the walls and air in the room and long-term maintenance of high temperatures. Thin film with a mirror surface is not the only option; the industry produces many types of thermal insulation based on it.

Varieties of materials for arranging baths and saunas

Folgoizolon. It is a foil insulation made of foamed polyethylene or polypropylene with a thermal conductivity of 0.031 W/mK. The second of them is PPE with a density of 33 kg per cubic meter. m, has a thickness from 1.2 to 50 mm. The first, denoted by the abbreviation NPE, is a low-density material - up to 31.7 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. Its maximum thickness is 15.5 mm. The shape is rectangular, square sheets or rolls, covered with foil on one or both sides.

Foil with mineral wool as a base. It is a heat-resistant foil insulation for a bath with high thermal insulation ability. On sale there are rolls and rigid slabs 5-10 cm thick with a thermal insulation layer of 8 to 10 mm. The main term can hide both basalt wool, obtained from the melt of volcanic rocks, and glass wool, made from glass and quartz sand.

Kraft foil. High-strength paper-based foil for baths. This category also includes three-layer material containing cellulose, a thin layer of polyethylene and an aluminum coating. Foil on kraft paper or fabric is the best option for a bathhouse. Operates in a temperature range from 50 to 100 degrees C. If installed correctly, it reflects up to 95% of heat. Sold in the form of sheets 0.03-1 mm thick or rolls 1 m wide and 30 m long.

What is "Penofol" and its types

Under the Penofol trademark, a thin material with a dense structure and high thermal insulation properties is produced. To achieve a good effect, a thickness of no more than 10 mm is sufficient. "Penofol", in addition to its main function, acts as a sound insulator, and also does not allow moisture to pass through from the outside, is hypoallergenic and resistant to mechanical stress. The material is produced in rolls, which is very convenient for transportation.

The following brands of these products are sold:

-A - there is a layer of foil on one side, it has a wide range of operating temperatures - from -40 to +150 degrees;

-B - double-sided foil coating, operating temperature range -40 - +300 degrees;

-C - one side is equipped with a self-adhesive layer, the other is simply foil. Operating temperature in the range -40 +80 degrees. A standard roll is 50 m long and 1 m wide.

Stitched and unstitched “Izolon”

Izolon is produced at the Izhevsk Plastics Plant; the material with foil is often used as insulation for bathhouses in locker rooms. Depending on the technology used, a distinction is made between “cross-linked” and “non-cross-linked” materials. The second type of product is foamed polyethylene with an unbound molecular structure, and in the first it is modified, which improves its characteristics.

The insulation is covered with foil on one or both sides. It is designed for operation in the range from 60 to 105 degrees. It is supplied to retail outlets in rolls, mats and tapes. For ease of installation, look for self-adhesive foil insulation. The sticky layer is protected with special paper or film.

"Isover" from

This roll material with a fiberglass base is produced by the famous French company. Foil isover reflects heat well, as it is covered on one side with foil reinforced with fiberglass.

Durable mineral fibers have a unique structure. They contain thermal additives that allow them to withstand temperatures up to 400 degrees.

The quality meets international and European standards. There is only one drawback - possible separation of fiberglass particles, so installation must be carried out using protective equipment.

Insulation for frame buildings URSA

URSA foil insulation is produced by a Spanish company. Its basis is glass charge or staple fiberglass. The production technology also requires the use of dolomite, sand, soda, and other minerals in the manufacturing process. The result is thin fibers glued together with a special composition. Thermal insulation in the form of slabs or in rolls is dense and flexible, fits well on the surface.

For frame saunas and baths, the most suitable material is URSA M-11 foil with good heat-reflecting and vapor barrier properties.

Finishing inside the dressing room

Typically, the finishing material here is lining, and both coniferous and deciduous wood can be used. But even those that successfully resist moisture require mandatory treatment with a fire retardant and antiseptic.

Covering the floor

So:

1. Beams are placed on the waterproofing, their thickness is 3-4 cm, the pitch is from 30 to 40 cm.
2. The floorboards are attached to the beams using the tongue-and-groove method; near the walls this is done with self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be deepened.
3. Rubber mats are used as an additional covering.

We are working on the ceiling and walls

First they tackle the ceiling, then the walls. The work goes according to this scenario:

• the sheathing is installed;
• the first element is attached to the wall opposite the entrance using a nail driven in at an angle of 45°;
• after checking the level, the following parts are installed;
• beams, the thickness of which is 4 cm, are attached to the wall;
• the covering starts from the corner, the actions are similar to ceiling installation;
• The last stage is fastening the skirting boards and installing the platbands.

The dressing room is ready, now all that remains is to think about how to decorate its interior. Others believe that we should not forget the traditions of our ancestors, while others strive for novelty in everything.

It’s not difficult to build a dressing room in a bathhouse with your own hands, and if you built the bathhouse yourself, then the operation won’t even take you much time.

Water heated floors: features and installation work

Before making a warm water floor in a bathhouse, you must:

• make sure that the mounting surface is level;
• think over the route of laying pipes;
• select pipe material.

Water often acts as a coolant, but if the bathhouse is not heated additionally, then it makes sense to use antifreeze. This will avoid freezing of the liquid inside the pipes and, accordingly, the risk of their rupture.

Corrugated bending pipe

A warm water floor in a bathhouse has the following advantages:

• environmental friendliness;
• efficiency;
• ensuring gradual natural heating;
• absence of electromagnetic radiation.

It is important to remember that making a heated water floor in a bathhouse with your own hands is quite problematic, since this is a multi-stage process that requires utmost attention. The slightest mistake can lead to incorrect operation of the system

Layers of warm water floor

In particular, the pattern according to which the pipes are laid is carefully selected:

• snail;
• snake;
• double snake.

The distribution of heat also depends on which water floor layout in the bathhouse is chosen. For a bathhouse, a snail is preferable, since it is it that ensures uniform heating of the surface, while a snake cannot provide this: gradually cooling down along the way, the heat transfer liquid may not heat some areas of the floor.

This is appropriate if the steam room itself is a separate building.

In order to organize a heated water floor in a bathhouse from a stove, it is necessary to install a metal tank above it - it is in it that the water for the entire system will be heated.

Installation diagram for a warm water floor from a stove

There is an option to locate the container below floor level, but in both cases there is a need for a pump: it will ensure proper circulation of liquid in the pipes. Heating the floor in a bathhouse from a stove is a somewhat lengthy process, so a separate wood-burning boiler is often used. Regardless of the method of heating water, the procedure for installing the floors themselves does not change:

Leveling the surface. The base on which the pipes will run must be level. If we are talking about logs and wooden floors, then special openings for pipes are made in the necessary places. Thermal insulation. To increase the efficiency of heat transfer, a layer of thermal insulation material is placed under the system. Installing the mounting surface. Most often, this role is played by a special heat-insulating mat with bosses, between which a flexible pipe is laid. However, fastening can be achieved using other suitable means. Laying the pipe

It is important to take into account that there should be no sharp turns in the turns. Connecting and checking the system. At this stage it is checked whether there are leaks. Screed and laying flooring.

An example of connecting a water floor to a heating circuit

It is important to ensure that there is no slope. The pump will cope with the water supply, but the excess pressure created can quickly damage the entire system. Such a warm floor in a bathhouse under tiles and under a wooden covering is suitable

The system will equally cope with heating.

What to do if heat leaves a newly built bathhouse

The very thought of a wooden bath gives us associations with something warm and hot. But here’s the paradox - sometimes, steam and heat quickly leave a newly erected structure and the task of heating the bathhouse becomes difficult to complete, especially in the cold season.

The very thought of a wooden bath gives us associations with something warm and hot.

But here’s the paradox - sometimes, steam and heat quickly leave a newly erected structure and the task of heating the bathhouse becomes difficult to complete, especially in the cold season. Such a problem can be solved both at the construction stage and after it. Order turnkey construction of houses and baths (https://ysad.ucoz.

The very thought of a wooden bath gives us associations with something warm and hot. But here’s the paradox - sometimes, steam and heat quickly leave a newly erected structure and the task of heating the bathhouse becomes difficult to complete, especially in the cold season.

The floors in the bathhouse suffer the most from excessive moisture and wear; the service life of this part of the bathhouse is the shortest. Therefore, special attention should be paid to flooring issues; correctly selected building materials and competent installation technologies will extend the life of the floor in the bathhouse. In this article we will look at what materials are best used for flooring and some other nuances related to this.

Floors in a bathhouse can be made from different materials: concrete, wood, ceramic tiles, much depends on what type of foundation was used during construction. Whatever the floor, it is extremely important to think through and implement the correct drainage of water. If the floor material is wood and the drainage is not adjusted properly, the material will immediately begin to rot, as evidenced by the unpleasant odors that appear.