Flooring repair
The floors in the bathhouse are made of boards 35–50 millimeters thick. Moreover, before installation, they are treated with special substances that increase resistance to moisture. The constant presence of water and temperature changes lead to the boards becoming unusable and requiring replacement. Bathroom floor repair is a top priority.
Repairing the floor in a bathhouse with your own hands must begin with assessing its condition. In most cases, restoration does not involve a complete replacement of the coating. All that is needed is to remove the boards that have begun to rot and replace them with new ones. The baseboard also needs to be replaced.
A complete replacement of the floor is carried out only if there is a need to redo the sewer system. For example, replace the pouring floor with another type of drainage. At the same time, boards that have not yet exhausted their resource can be reused. They, like new lumber, must be dried and treated with an antiseptic.
Recommendations
Tips for partial renovations in a bathhouse:
It is important to clean your drain regularly. If it is metal, you can use a cable
Chemicals are used for plastic elements. It is recommended to replace aluminum wires with new ones made of copper. It is necessary to use wiring with a non-flammable layer of insulation. You can assemble the furniture yourself from wood. Door frames and frames should be replaced with new ones. Empty spaces must be filled with foam. When replacing flooring, you can install a heated floor system. Door handles need to be replaced with wooden ones. When arranging the floor in the washing room, you should create a slope towards the water drainage point. It is recommended to seal the slopes with foam plastic. When repairing a steam room, you need to cover all metal elements.
To check the integrity of the boards, you need to hit the element of interest with a hammer. If the sound is dull, the wood has begun to rot. In a similar way, you can check the status of the lag. To do this, you need to hit the nail driven into them with a hammer. If the sound is dull, the tree has rotted from the inside.
Over time, wooden surfaces in the bathhouse become unusable. This is due to constant temperature changes and increased humidity levels. To restore walls, ceilings, floors or various interior elements, you need to perform repair work. They can be major or cosmetic.
Preparation for repair work
Carrying out an audit of the current state of the bathhouse and identifying all existing breakdowns and malfunctions will help to correctly plan the necessary work, purchase exactly the materials that will be needed for repairs, and distribute the budget with maximum efficiency.
The audit is best carried out according to a pre-designed scheme. Typically this process is performed in the following sequence:
- The outer walls are inspected and gaps between the logs of the log house are identified. In this case, it is especially recommended to inspect the corners of the log house, where damage is most likely, but sometimes not very noticeable.
- A similar examination is carried out regarding internal walls.
- Doors and windows are inspected. Subsequent operations do not directly affect the log house, but they are necessary when repairing a bathhouse.
- The condition of the ceiling and roof is inspected. At the same time, you can assess the condition of the stove and chimney.
- The condition of the flooring and drainage system is checked.
Lining in the steam room: vertically or horizontally
There are two ways to solve the problem of how to line a bathhouse with clapboard quickly and efficiently:
- With horizontal planks;
- With vertical slats.
With the horizontal method, the lining is installed parallel to the floor surface. In a vertical position - perpendicular to the floor.
The horizontal position more effectively protects the lining from water penetration. This ensures good ventilation of the space between the wall and the panels.
The choice of method affects the technology of work and the final cost of repairs. For lining the inside of a bathhouse, they prefer the horizontal method. In this case, the wooden panels are installed with the tenon facing up.
Furnace installation
The stove in the steam room can be installed in iron, brick or electric. The location for it should be chosen at the bathhouse design stage. The furnace firebox can be located both inside the steam room and outside it.
Installation procedure in a steam iron stove:
install the stove on a pre-prepared base;
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Base for installing the furnace
Furnace foundation - photo
they line it with bricks along the walls and inside the partition;
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Brick is laid between the walls of the furnace and the timber, the cracks are sealed with basalt cardboard
The walls near the stove are protected with refractory bricks
a metal passage for the chimney is installed in the opening on the ceiling;
Installed ceiling trim
a pipe and damper are installed on the stove, a tank is connected and a double-walled chimney is brought out through the ceiling, insulating it with non-combustible material;
Ceiling trim is fully insulated
a metal sheet with a hole through which the pipe passes is fixed on the roof.
Chimney passage through the roof
Installation of an electric heater
The electric oven is installed on a pre-prepared platform or hung on the wall using special brackets. It does not require installation of a chimney.
It is imperative to observe the distances specified in the instructions from the oven to the walls and shelves.
Ceiling and roof repair
If the time has come to repair the bathhouse, then you need to pay attention not only to the logs, floor and stove, but also to the ceiling and roof. Over time, they could begin to leak, including where the chimney pipe passes. The pipe penetration must be checked first. For the rest, you should rely on the current condition of the roof.
The ceiling should be additionally insulated, for example, with mineral wool. Near the chimney, the ceiling is insulated with non-flammable materials that can withstand high temperatures.
The choice of materials for the interior decoration of the bath
When choosing building materials, it is important that they meet the following requirements:
- Resistant to high temperatures and sudden changes.
- Moisture resistance.
- Safety - a person should not have an allergic reaction or burns upon contact with the material.
- Environmental safety – absence of toxic substances.
- Hygienic - the material should be easy to maintain and clean.
- Long service life.
- High strength and reliability.
- Attractive appearance.
Steam room finishing
The best material for cladding a steam room is wood, but it is better to give preference to hardwood. The thing is that these types of wood do not heat up, you won’t get burned on them, there is no release of resins, and when ventilated, the material dries quickly, making the formation of fungus impossible.
Types of wood for finishing the steam room:
- Aspen is a classic option for the northern regions of Russia, since the material is low in cost, due to its high strength it is difficult to split, and in addition, the wood has bactericidal properties.
- Linden is an attractive material with a stable color and low heat capacity. Due to this, the tree quickly gains temperature and is safe to touch. Linden also creates a pleasant atmosphere due to its special aroma and has a low price.
- Abash is a material that is just becoming popular, since it is wood from the African tropics and we still don’t know enough about it. It is best to make shelves from abasha that are resistant to steam and high temperatures, since they hardly heat up.
- Alder is an attractive visually and tactile wood material that is resistant to steam room conditions. Easy to maintain and clean, low cost.
It must be remembered that wood should never be painted or varnished, since under the influence of high temperatures the coating will release harmful chemicals and odors. When finishing, nails and screws must be carefully hidden, as they heat up and can cause burns. Experts also recommend filling the lining vertically, because the water drains much faster this way.
Waterproof skirting boards will help protect the joint between the walls and the floor. For finishing the floor, it is best to use larch or tiles - the latter option is more preferable, as it is resistant to fungus and is easy to clean. If the tile seems cold, a wooden grate is placed on it, which can be easily removed if necessary.
Finishing the dressing room and sink
It is better not to use wood for lining the sink; preference is given to tiles, since in the shower there is constant contact with water. Ceramic tiles do not rot, they are easy to care for, and for an attractive appearance, you can choose special stylish tiles that imitate natural wood.
As for the dressing room, it is a warm and cozy place, but there are no high temperatures here, so it is allowed to use coniferous wood with a pleasant and healthy aroma.
Among the popular types of wood for finishing the dressing room are:
- Pine is an attractive and durable material that has a long service life and is the most popular. During use, the wood may change color, becoming a little redder. Also popular is Scandinavian pine, which has a pink tint and annual rings that create a decorative pattern on the walls.
- Spruce has a homogeneous structure; when dried, it remains solid and does not crack. The color scheme is slightly lighter than pine.
- Fir is a tree that has properties similar to spruce, but practically does not emit resin.
Repairing sauna walls with your own hands: photos and insulation features
First of all, you need to stock up on the necessary materials and tools, which include: level, timber, shovel, hammer, rule, construction nails, concrete mixers, etc.
It’s a shame if after building a sauna you find that it cools down quickly and the heat is not the same. The reason for this may be one thing - poor-quality thermal insulation of the steam room. We offer you effective methods of sauna insulation, following which you will not be disappointed.
The main stages of insulating sauna walls
- Thermal insulation of the sauna.
Experts note that 70% of the heat in a sauna or steam bath is so-called radiant heat. It turns out that heating occurs as a result of an increase in air temperature due to heat rays from heated stones or a stove. In the same way, you warm yourself by the fire, feeling the warmth even at a distance, and it comes not from the heated air, but from the rays that come from the fire. By placing a barrier between you and the fire, you will immediately stop feeling these rays.
The main task with proper insulation is to keep these rays inside the steam room, otherwise it will cool down quickly and heat up for a long time.
Imagine a simple thermos of tea. If hot tea were inside an ordinary metal can, the heat would escape through the walls. However, in a thermos, the rays are reflected from the foil, which means the tea will not be able to cool down as quickly. One of the most popular misconceptions is the belief that it is enough to cover the walls with insulation and eurolining.
In fact, thermal insulation of a sauna is a more complex process. But in any case, with good preparation, anyone can handle it. Another common misconception - the desire for naturalness - forces people to use materials that are prone to rotting (for example, moss) when insulating.
With high humidity, moss can rot and can also infect the tree with rot. True, there are exceptions - building red moss. However, it is also subject to a problem that no one thought about at first - all kinds of birds and bugs can pull apart the sealing system.
- Selection of materials for insulation.
For insulation of saunas, glass wool and mineral wool, as well as basalt fiber, are most often used. Such materials are moisture-proof, fire-resistant and durable and do not rot. Today, for convenience, these insulation materials are available in the form of slabs, mats or rolls.
Saunas are also insulated with organic materials – wood concrete. Such blocks consist of a mixture of cement and sawdust. They can be made on your own and used effectively even in climate zones where low temperatures prevail. But be that as it may, this insulation has one big drawback - it can ignite.
Although, if you create such blocks yourself, you can always add substances to the solution that make the wood fire-resistant. By using wood concrete you will save a lot on construction, but it is still worth covering the steam room area with the same mineral wool.
For rest rooms and dressing rooms, materials made on the basis of polymers - extruded polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene - are perfect. Fire resistance is not listed as one of these qualities, so it is highly not recommended to use them in steam rooms where there is a high probability of fire. In addition to insulation, we must not forget about vapor barrier. Glassine and inexpensive roofing felt are most often used for it, but such savings can harm your health.
When these materials heat up, they release toxins that enter the body through the lungs. Aluminum foil or foil-coated materials simultaneously solve two problems, namely, vapor barrier and heat reflection back into the room. Modern manufacturers go further by offering fiberglass mats that are covered with foil. When working with these materials, the task is greatly simplified, since the entire process consists of one step.
- The process of insulating a sauna.
When you decide on the materials, you can begin the insulation itself. It’s worth noting right away that it is quite expensive and difficult. According to all classical schemes, sauna insulation begins from the floor.
How to make a new one from an old bathhouse
If there is an old bathhouse in the yard, restoration is easier than building a new building. A major overhaul involves replacing all damaged elements.
Reconstruction of an old bathhouse
They begin repairing an old bathhouse with their own hands by conducting a thorough inspection. The following building elements are inspected:
- On the walls, check the condition of the cladding, vapor barrier, and insulation. In some places, areas will have to be opened to get to the crowns and assess their condition. Carefully check the bottom and corner joints.
- The rotted lower crown of the bathhouse indicates problems with the foundation. The base is inspected for the presence of waterproofing. If during the inspection large cracks, subsidence or destruction of the foundation are revealed, the old bathhouse will have to be dismantled and rebuilt.
- The condition of the bathhouse ceiling is assessed by cladding, vapor and thermal insulation. At the same time, the roof, roofing covering, and the condition of the chimney duct are inspected.
- Doors and windows are checked for cracks. Wooden frames are deformed by changes in temperature and humidity.
- The floor is subjected to a final inspection. They are trying to get to the drain, checking the functionality of the sewer system.
Analysis of the state of the bath structure
At this stage, before restoring the bathhouse, you will need to identify all the defects that have arisen during operation, choose ways to eliminate them and draw up a list of repair work.
- First, the walls are inspected. Check the quality of the insulation, whether cracks, cracks and other defects have appeared on the walls.
- Next, inspect the foundation. If subsidence and significant cracks have formed in it, then in this case repairing the foundation may not be practical. The bathhouse will have to be dismantled.
- Now you can inspect the ceiling, roof, chimney and stove. There should be no gaps in the ceiling and roof, and the insulation should be intact. The chimney and stove must also not have cracks, chips or other similar defects.
- Windows and doors are inspected; they must be hermetically sealed; distortions and other damage are unacceptable.
- There should be no fungus on the floors and walls inside the room, and the floor boards and partitions themselves should be checked for strength.
- And finally, you need to check the condition of the bath drainage system, shelves and bath furniture.
Basic standards and requirements
On the other hand, in the serious business of construction one cannot do without norms and requirements. They are set out in SNiP 30-02-97, which determines that it is permissible to locate a bathhouse 8 meters from other buildings, and no closer than 15 meters from a neighbor’s house. The layout of the bathhouse must include at least three rooms, the area of each of which per visitor is:
- dressing room – 2 m²;
- washing room – 2.7 m²;
- steam room – 3 m².
The height of the walls is 3.3 m.
In private buildings, the stated requirements are not always and not fully met. However, for newly constructed buildings, compliance with fire breaks of 8 and 15 m is not even a matter of good relations with regulatory authorities. This is a matter of safety for residents and neighbors.
How to calculate the amount of material
To calculate the lining, you can use an online calculator.
The simplest option for calculating the amount of material required for lining and insulating a bathhouse is by the area of the premises. You will need to measure the height, width and length of the rooms.
The area is calculated using the formula S=2HL+2HD, where:
- H – height;
- L – length;
- D – wall width.
The area of existing window and door openings is subtracted from the result. The area of the ceiling is calculated separately - its length and width are multiplied.
You can calculate the amount of lining in square meters manually or using an online calculator. It is worth adding 15% to the received quantity for a reserve in case of damage to the lamellas.
Repair of a log house from the inside
First of all, it is necessary to carry out preparatory activities. After preparing all the tools and materials, all interior decoration is removed from the walls. If there is no intention to radically change the entire finish, then all materials are carefully inspected, those that remain in satisfactory condition are marked and stored for subsequent installation in their place.
After this, the logs are cleared of debris, several lower crowns are treated with some kind of antiseptic solution, which will prevent rotting and increase the service life of the log house. All cracks found during inspection are caulked, and maximum tightness should be achieved.
The repair could have been completed at this point, but it is recommended to carry out additional internal insulation, which will ensure better heat retention and undoubted cost savings by reducing the volume of fuel for the stove.
The optimal insulation material for this is mineral wool, applied directly to the logs of the log house. It is necessary to fix the foil-coated polymer on top of the insulation, with the foil inside the room.
The polymer is applied with a slight overlap, and the seam is covered with construction tape. For the final interior decoration, various materials can be used, but most often the finishing is carried out with pine lining (with the exception of the steam room).
Repair of a log house can be carried out independently without the involvement of specialists.
Thermal insulation of walls
Repairing baths is a labor-intensive process that requires a responsible approach. To repair an old log bathhouse, you need to carefully seal all the cracks and crevices that formed during operation. Thanks to this, the room will warm up much faster and retain heat longer.
As a rule, more cracks and crevices form on the outer parts of the wall.
This is due to the fact that they are a kind of boundary between different climatic conditions. You can seal cracks and crevices using a lot of building materials: from tow to polyurethane foam. The main thing is that any existing damage is thoroughly repaired.
Additionally, you can thermally insulate a log bath using standard insulation materials, for example, mineral wool or polystyrene foam. They can be placed under interior or exterior trim.
Repairing the foundation
The reasons requiring repair of the foundation of the building are the following:
- violation of the geometry of the structure;
- cracks that can lead to the collapse of the bathhouse;
- destructive process of walls.
First of all, it is necessary to drain groundwater and rainwater using storm sewers, blind areas and a drainage system. Restoring the foundation of the bathhouse is carried out in several stages.
- Freeing the interior from all its elements. Dismantling a brick stove.
- Removing rotted or deformed lower crowns.
- Raising the bathhouse structure using special jacks for log houses, without disturbing the geometry of the structure. They start lifting from one corner of the bathhouse to a small height, fixing it with bars, then the same actions must be done on the opposite side. With such manipulations, moving from corner to corner and placing supports under them, you need to raise the bathhouse 50 cm above the destroyed foundation.
- Dismantling the previous foundation. Old concrete is broken with large crowbars and taken outside the bathhouse.
- Digging a trench along the entire perimeter of the bathhouse in place of the old foundation, at the bottom of which a 7 cm layer of crushed stone and 5 cm thick sand is poured. They are compacted with special devices and filled with water. Sand must be added and compacted with a board with a handle screwed to it until the sand cushion reaches 15 cm.
- Installation of wooden formwork (covered with thick polyethylene film) for subsequent pouring of the solution. Don’t forget to install plastic pipes across it, through which the space under the bathhouse floor will subsequently be ventilated.
- Installation of a frame made of reinforcement.
- Pouring the concrete mixture (preferably within one day, to avoid the formation of joints of concrete of different moisture content).
If the foundation is not completely destroyed, then the formwork is installed only in place of the dismantled damaged area. A partial filling is carried out, which is no different from the usual one. Sometimes, in order not to dismantle the old foundation of the bathhouse, which is a labor-intensive process, a concrete corset is installed, while:
- dig an additional trench next to the foundation, 20 cm deeper than the old foundation, up to 30 cm wide;
- they equip a sand cushion, formwork, a frame made of reinforcement and pour concrete.
After approximately 2–3 weeks, the formwork is removed and the resulting foundation is treated with coating waterproofing. A bathhouse is lowered onto it and repair work continues. Instead of the removed unusable crowns, a new log or beam is installed on top of the foundation; tow is laid between the joints.
Repairing damage
Repair of strip foundations after subsidence
The degree of damage to the base is determined by the beacons. If they do not crack, the subsidence has stopped. In this case, it is enough to drill holes with a diameter of 250 mm and a depth of 2.5 m in problem areas in 1 m increments. Then, if possible, remove a small volume of soil from under the foundation in these places. The holes and resulting voids are filled with concrete.
When the settling process continues, one of two methods can be applied:
- Conventionally divide the entire foundation lengthwise into sections and build a completely new base step by step, going under the old structures;
- Drill holes around the perimeter of the building to the depth of stable soils and fill them with concrete - this will compact the weak soil and stop subsidence.
Advice! Filling voids in dense soil with a solution is possible immediately. If the soil is loose and wet, a pipe with a diameter of 450 mm is placed under the foundation, through which liquid concrete is pumped until it stops flowing. Then half a meter is retreated from this place and the operation is repeated.
Subsidence of a columnar foundation
To strengthen the supports, a pipe is inserted into the ground to their lowest level at an angle of 35°, into which cement mortar is poured. When it stops being absorbed into the soil, the operation is interrupted for 1-2 days, after which everything is repeated twice with the same interval.
If, despite the measures taken, the bathhouse continues to settle, which is determined by the beacons:
- A circular ditch of 200x350 mm is dug around the support, in which formwork from boards is installed;
- Inside the pit, pins are placed between bricks and stones, to which a reinforcement mesh made from metal scraps is attached;
- The formwork is filled with concrete mortar filled with crushed stone or gravel;
- When strengthening adjacent or opposite foundation supports, it is necessary to place an additional beam between them, under the new “rings,” to increase the load-bearing capacity of the entire structure.
Roll of foundation pillars
On heaving soils, the foundation supports may eventually take on a non-vertical position, which can be corrected as follows:
- The bathhouse is raised and fixed in a new position without dismantling windows and doors;
- The leaning pillars of the base are dismantled;
We repair communications
When carrying out repair work in a bathhouse, it is necessary to check the lighting system, since water and electricity are bad neighbors. Old aluminum wiring must be replaced with wire with non-flammable insulation and copper conductors, designed to operate in conditions of high temperature and humidity. Sockets and switches should also be replaced.
It is important to know that they cannot be installed inside the steam room of the bathhouse.
If there is no water supply, the bathhouse should be connected to a water source
It is important to know that pipes are laid in the ground below the freezing level. If the building is not intended to be used in winter, care should be taken to drain the water from the system
This measure will protect the pipeline from defrosting.
For the bathhouse to function properly, you should check the serviceability of the drain, as it may become clogged. To prevent this from happening, special meshes are placed on the ends of the drain holes, which will let water through and trap debris. After each visit to the bathhouse, they must be cleaned.
Heating restoration and modernization
The most important element of a bathhouse made of logs and any other building materials is the stove. If the bathhouse has not been used for a long period of time, then it is necessary to check its condition, clean the chimney and replace failed elements.
If necessary, a brick oven can be replaced with a metal boiler, purchased in a store or made by yourself. The advantages of the boiler are obvious:
- firstly, it is more compact;
- secondly, it has greater heat transfer;
- thirdly, with a boiler it is much easier to arrange a heating and heat exchange system.
Of course, you can leave the oven on too. After checking its functionality, it must be painted with chalk or lime.
Bathhouse inside the house
Of course, it is not necessary to make major repairs and reconstruction of a large old house in order to equip a small bathhouse with a steam room
The situation when a bathhouse is built inside a residential building, wooden or stone, no matter, is becoming more and more common
To equip a bathhouse in an old house, you will only need funds to repair the wall insulation and remodel. If the building is too old, then it is best to immediately repair the foundation, since with the installation of a steam room, the load on the foundation will only increase.
The rest of the room can be used as living rooms or converted into a veranda or winter garden.
Types of jobs
Repairs can be of two types:
- capital;
- cosmetic.
Capital
Features of the overhaul:
- Performed in cases of severe damage.
- All decorative coatings must be replaced.
- Old walls and partitions are dismantled and new ones are erected.
- The stove equipment and chimney are completely replaced.
- New communications are being laid - wiring, water supply pipeline, sewer drain.
- Windows and doors are being replaced with new ones.
After a major overhaul, the appearance of the building and rooms will be different from the old decoration. Requires significant financial and labor investments.
Useful tips: nuances of finishing work for a bath
The decoration of the relaxation room inside the bathhouse deserves special attention. Photos of interesting solutions can be found on the Internet.
The combination of stone and wood in the interior is especially appreciated
Knowledge of some installation subtleties will help to carry out high-quality finishing work:
- in the steam room it is necessary to raise the floor level 16-25 cm above the washing room. This will prevent excess moisture from entering the steam room;
- You should prefer edged or tongue-and-groove boards. Both options must be moisture resistant;
- before cladding, all necessary communications must be carried out;
- when installing benches and shelves, you should make sure that their edges are rounded;
- no gaps are left between the boards.
The use of carved products will add personality to the room
Natural wood is used for interior decoration. The walls can be lined with clapboard, especially cedar. An original interior can be created using a block house. These are processed boards that imitate real timber.
Decorating walls with a block house requires precise calculations
Windows and doors should be small to reduce heat loss. Doors must be strong and thick. For internal cladding, boards without knots are selected.
With the right skill, you can create a stylish interior with your own hands.
You can make a beautiful decoration in the bathhouse with your own hands. If you choose high-quality material and follow all installation technologies, you can create a functional and original cladding.
Which lining to choose for a bathhouse
There are 4 types of lining, differing in the profile of the boards:
- Eurolining.
- Standard (otherwise called “peasant”).
- Block house (imitation logs).
- American (imitation timber).
Popular brands that have proven themselves to be of high quality:
- "Calm";
- "Soft Line";
- "Classical".
All of them belong to the eurolining category and differ in size and profile. Boards, regardless of their type and brand, are often called lamellas.
Finishing a bathhouse with clapboard is a traditional, frequently used solution. It has gained so much popularity for many reasons. Lining is a natural and therefore environmentally friendly material that is beneficial to human and animal health. When choosing, it is extremely important to consider several points:
- type of wood;
- grade of material;
- resistance to moisture;
- coefficient of thermal conductivity.
Other repair places
So, if the basic elements of the bath are clear, then the question remains open with the smaller details.
It would not be superfluous to make repairs, or rather replace all electrical wiring in the bathhouse. Older buildings used aluminum wiring. It would be better to lay copper wires.
If there are electric heating devices in the bathhouse, then the cross-sectional area of the wire should be about 4 mm². If the wiring is used only to power ordinary light bulbs, then thin copper wires with a cross-sectional area of 2.5 mm² will suffice.
Diagram of a brick stove for a bathhouse.
Often the reason for the presence of cold air in the bathhouse is an old window or door
These elements also need to be paid attention to when renovating a bathhouse. It is best to remove the old jambs and install new ones, while insulating them
You should do the same with windows.
Insulation can be done with polystyrene foam, if the gaps between the frame and the wall are large, or with polyurethane foam, if such gaps are small enough. Door jambs can be insulated in the same way.
As for repairing bath furniture, there are no difficulties at all. The best furniture for a bathhouse would be furniture made of wood. However, wooden objects have one serious drawback - in a damp room they very quickly become unusable.
Now there are many special liquids that protect wood from rotting. Having made new benches and shelves, it is necessary to saturate them with this substance. Ordinary pinotex or some kind of antiseptic would be ideal.
It is important to know! An important element of any bathhouse is the wastewater removal system. In a bathhouse, as a rule, it consists of the floor itself and the drain hole
The floor slopes towards the drain pipe
In a bathhouse, as a rule, it consists of the floor itself and the drain hole. The floor slopes towards the drain pipe.
Very often, water stagnates on the floor surface precisely because of improper floor construction. In this case, the repair will involve laying a cement screed on the surface of the concrete floor, which will form a slope in the desired direction.
In addition, you need to clean the drain pipe. It often turns out that the drain pipe is simply not able to pass the amount of water consumed, which causes it to become clogged. In this case, it is recommended to replace the pipe with one that has a larger diameter.
At the entrance to the pipe, that is, inside the bathhouse, you need to install a mesh to prevent debris from getting inside the pipe. At the same time, it will be necessary to increase the volume of the drain well.
So, renovating a bathhouse is not difficult. It all depends on the scale of the repair. It is worth remembering that it is better to completely re-insulate an old bathhouse rather than filling up old holes.
If possible, it is recommended to completely replace the ceiling, floor, and roof. The same applies to the oven. Old stoves tended to emit large amounts of carbon dioxide, which, coupled with a clogged chimney, became dangerous to human life and health.
https://www.pogreemsya.ru/youtu.be/RoQ3EOXl1wM
Today, metal stoves are becoming very popular, which can continue to be heated even during washing without harm to health. Therefore, repairing a bathhouse may include a complete replacement of the stove.
Steam room insulation
It is necessary to approach the insulation of a bathhouse responsibly, because a warm bathhouse is actually needed in order to wash and steam in it with comfort and health benefits.
Making the bathhouse warm is the main task of the builders of this building.
At the construction stage of the bathhouse, special attention should be paid to the choice of insulation, so as not to experience problems with heat in the bathhouse in the future.
Ceiling
If the ceiling is poorly insulated, then the warm air rising upward (according to the laws of physics) will literally simply evaporate, thereby reducing the amount of heat in the room.
To create a warm ceiling, the following insulation materials are used:
- Mineral wool. This is a durable and reliable material, but with one significant drawback - when wet, the thermal insulation decreases significantly.
- Foil penotherm. The mirror surface of the material, due to its reflective ability, helps to retain heat and also speeds up the process of heating the bath.
- Expanded clay. A thirty-centimeter layer of this material is laid as insulation; it retains heat well, but is much heavier compared to other insulation materials.
- Pug. A layer of two centimeters laid on the ceiling is a folk way of creating a warm bath room.
Window and door openings
Tightness when installing windows and doors is the key to maintaining the optimal temperature in the bathhouse.
The use of modern materials does not interfere with the benefits of bath procedures
Double-glazed windows or well-fitted wooden doors and windows using sealant during installation are best suited for these purposes.
If the entrance door to the bathhouse is not insulated, then it will be cold in the dressing room and you can catch a cold after a hot procedure in the steam room.
Folk methods of insulating the front door:
- thermal insulation of the door using seals;
- installation of a second door;
- hanging a blanket or thick curtain on the front door.
All these methods do not exclude the penetration of cold, frosty air into the dressing room. In winter, this can lead to frosting of the door and difficulty opening it.
A reliable, airtight door will help keep the bathhouse warm in the winter
You can reduce the amount of cold air entering the bathhouse by changing the design of the door - reducing its parameters. Another good option is to fit the front door frame exactly to the doorway, leaving no gaps or cracks.
When using a second door, the problem of freezing of the front door is eliminated, but another negative point arises - the accumulation of moisture between the doors. This problem can be solved by using not two different doors, but one two-chamber one. The temperature contrast that occurs when using hot bath procedures in winter eliminates the use of a two-chamber door, which you can build yourself from a board (inches), chipboard and insulation between them.
Insulation is also used in the conventional design of the entrance door. Extruded polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene, basalt insulation, staple fiberglass, foamed polyethylene foam are modern insulation materials that are used in the construction of baths. Be sure to take into account the flammability of these materials, their resistance to high temperatures and high humidity.
Floor
The gap between the subfloor and the main floor must be insulated, especially if the bathhouse is used in winter.
If the floor in a bathhouse that has already been built does not meet the required temperature parameters, then it must be dismantled and the space between the rough and finished floors must be filled with sawdust, expanded clay, mineral wool or other suitable insulation.
For a winter version of a bath, such a floor will be very useful.
Another possible solution to this problem is installing a floor heating system. This can be a water, infrared or electric design that allows you to heat the floor to a comfortable temperature.
When the drain in a bathhouse freezes, craftsmen advise using hot water with salt or an anti-freeze machine. There are other methods of dealing with frozen sewer pipes:
- using a blowtorch or gas torch for metal pipes;
- heating metal pipes with a welding machine, putting terminals on both ends of the pipe;
- removing the ice plug by placing a smaller diameter hose in a plastic pipe and pouring hot water;
- use of a steam generator (if available).
Reasons for the destruction of the foundation of the structure
There are many possible problems that may require repairs. Experts from all their masses highlight the impact of three factors: water, frost and negligence of builders.
Causes of foundation deformation:
- Poor design or lack of drainage;
- Low quality or incorrect choice of building materials;
- Failure to comply with construction technology;
- Loss of soil bearing capacity due to flooding or rising groundwater;
- Incorrect reinforcement;
- Formation of voids under the foundation due to its erosion;
- Corrosion of materials as a result of their reaction with water, especially acidic water;
- Distortion, subsidence or pushing out of entire sections of the foundation as a result of freezing of moisture in the ground, which is typical for heaving soils;
- Incorrect placement depth.
Important! Active development taking place nearby can provoke deformation of even a well-constructed foundation.
Important points when finishing
The bathhouse user wants to purchase finishing materials, completely forgetting about the following nuances:
- Choice of lining laying – vertical, horizontal, diagonal, mixed;
- Finding a place to install the heater;
- Preference for a certain power and shape of the heater;
- Thinking about the need to install a washing shower, fireplace, font.
A video of decorating the inside of a bathhouse with your own hands usually shows spacious rooms. But not everyone has such spaces, which is why some devices have to be abandoned. In particular, we are talking about plumbing, fireplace, swimming pool.
Restoration of flooring
If an unpleasant smell of rot is heard from the underground, then the floor in the bathhouse needs to be changed. It is very difficult to determine the safety of boards externally; there are various methods for this.
- Pierce the board with an awl. It will go into rotten wood very easily.
- Hit the floorboards with a hammer. The appearance of a dull sound indicates the beginning of rotting.
- Hit the nails with a hammer. A hollow sound also indicates rotting.
General scheme for repairing a floor in a bathhouse
In frame structures, damage can spread to the walls, so repairs should begin as soon as possible. If rotting of the floor in the bathhouse occurs in spots, then it is necessary to cut out the unusable boards and replace them with new ones, leveling the level with a plane.
In case of complete destruction, it is necessary to remove all boards, joists and crowns to which the floor was attached. To do this, the floor is raised with a jack and replaced with new parts. First, the embedded elements are attached, the logs are attached to them, and then the new flooring. To extend the life of the floor, it must be insulated. Foam plastic or penoplex is suitable for this.
Selection of wood species
Since it is better to use solid hardwood in a bathhouse, the owner of a thematic structure before covering it should pay attention to:
- Oak;
- Ash;
- Birch;
- Linden;
- Aspen;
- Alder.
The best options are linden and alder. Oak and ash wood is beautiful, but expensive. Solid birch smells good, but does not withstand excessive moisture. The remaining breeds are the “golden mean”.
Elimination of consequences of fires
If the most unpleasant thing does happen, the consequences of the fire must be eliminated.
However, such repairs are more labor-intensive, since they are not only complex, but also harmful to health. And to eliminate such a consequence of a fire as an unpleasant odor, you will need special cleaning products and equipment, because no home method can completely remove soot and odor.
During a fire, combustion products completely saturate the entire interior of the room. Therefore, it is best to start repairs as soon as possible. Staying in a room damaged by a fire is dangerous to health, so you can only carry out work there wearing a gas mask.
The restoration of the premises begins with all floors, furniture, walls and ceilings being thoroughly washed, then chemical treatment is carried out with special means that do not destroy the walls and furniture at all.
In addition, eliminating the consequences of a fire involves:
- Disposal of damaged and irreparable interior items and furniture
- Cleaning of soot and soot from all indoor surfaces
- Carrying out chemical cleaning of walls, ceilings, furniture, and interior items to eliminate the smell of smoke
- Restoring damaged electrical wiring
- Restoration of the water supply system
For this you will need:
- Special high-quality reagents that are designed for chemical cleaning and removal of burning odor
- Chemical cleaning equipment: high-pressure washers, vacuum cleaners, single-disc machines or other similar repair equipment
In case of severe damage to interior finishing elements, as well as parts of walls, floors, ceilings, if there is no possibility of their restoration, the damaged elements should be completely dismantled and new ones made.
Timely and competent execution of repair work will allow not only you, but also your children and grandchildren to use the bathhouse for many years, and will also instill confidence in your strengths and capabilities!
We install a heat and vapor barrier layer
The thickness of the layer of heat-insulating material directly depends on the design of the insulated surface. It should be noted that the floor of the bathhouse, both wooden and concrete, is insulated using a certain technology, and this work is labor-intensive enough to devote a separate article to it. Now we are considering the insulation of the walls and ceiling of a traditional wooden bathhouse.
The ceiling is subject to much more thorough insulation than the walls, so the layer of mineral wool on it should be twice as thick. This is due to the fact that the hot air in the steam room rises, and it is through the ceiling that maximum heat loss occurs.
So, the frame previously made from beams is installed on the surface and carefully secured with screws or bushings. An even piece of insulating material is placed in the space between the beams. It should lie tightly, without free spaces or overlaps. The edges of the material are secured using a construction stapler.
Once the installation of mineral wool is complete, it’s time for the next stage – vapor barrier. Aluminum foil is most often used in this capacity, since it not only protects the insulation from steam and moisture, but also has reflective properties. Thanks to this quality, foil creates the so-called “thermos effect” in the steam room, retaining heat inside the room for a long time.
So, to install the vapor barrier layer you will need:
- Aluminum foil in the required quantity;
- Thin slats for sheathing;
- Small wallpaper nails or a construction stapler;
- Scotch tape or adhesive tape.
For vapor barrier, it is preferable to take foil with a thickness of 65 microns. This is a material that is optimal in density and strength and is easy to work with.
First of all, you should prepare the sheathing. Since the room of the bathhouse and steam room is small, it will be easy to make the lathing by stuffing slats to the frame of the heat-insulating layer.
After this, sheets of foil are secured to the sheathing using wallpaper nails or a stapler. At the same time, they should be well, but not too tightly, and carefully aligned. The overlap of the sheets on each other should not be more than 5 cm. Since the vapor barrier layer must be continuous, the sheets are connected with tape at all joints.
The main condition for the materials used: they must be environmentally friendly, and when exposed to heat and moisture they must not emit foreign odors of a chemical nature. This is why such common building materials as roofing felt, roofing felt or glassine are not used in the interior decoration of bathhouses.
Replacement of lining and insulation
Of all the interior spaces, the steam room and washing room are the most vulnerable. They are constantly exposed to high humidity and with improperly organized vapor barrier, wooden structures quickly collapse under the influence of fungus and mold.
This is what an insulated steam room looks like, using mineral wool in rolls with a foil layer.
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As a result of the violation of the integrity of the vapor barrier reflective layer, moisture constantly penetrated into the insulation fibers and accumulated there. The tree began to actively become moldy from constant contact with water. If the interior decoration had not been removed on time, then, after 3-4 years, the damage to the walls due to their accelerated rotting could have become irreparable.
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The new finishing layer was carried out according to all the rules - a wooden frame was installed on the walls, on top of which a foil vapor barrier on kraft paper was laid using a construction stapler.
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Installation of a vapor barrier requires covering all damage from staples with foil tape, and vapor barrier sheets must be laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm. The joints should also be sealed with vapor barrier tape.
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In this case, it was decided not to lay a thermal insulation layer so that it would not accumulate moisture, as in the previous version of the separation. However, if you are confident in the quality of the manufactured vapor barrier, mineral wool slabs can be placed in the wooden sheathing between the log wall and the vapor barrier. This will significantly speed up the heating process of the steam compartment.
As can be seen in the photo, the walls below were covered with a plinth made of cement-bonded particle boards. Porcelain tiles are glued onto the DSP sheets, which form one integral layer with the floor covering. If there was a wooden lining at the very bottom of the wall, it would soon begin to rot in the area of the base from regular contact with water. And the porcelain stoneware surface does not experience any problems under the influence of high humidity.
Rules for choosing lining grades
Manufacturers offer several options for grading boards:
- "A" - first;
- “B” – second;
- “C” – third;
- "Extra" is the highest.
What “highest” is is not specified in the state standards. This indicator is not used anywhere in the world except Russia. Domestic manufacturers often pass off “A” grade wood as “Extra”, and “B” grade boards as “A”. This is what caused the appearance of premium lining on the market. Recommendations for choosing grades are as follows:
- the interior decoration of the bathhouse can be made of second-grade boards;
- For rooms with high humidity, the presence of rot and wane in the wood is unacceptable.
Features of flooring
Experts recommend installing porcelain tiles with an anti-slip coating in the steam room, since this material meets all of the above requirements. To install it you will need to perform a number of sequential steps:
- Build a sand cushion from crushed stone and sand;
- Install a waterproofing layer;
- Next is a thick layer of thermal insulation;
- And finally, perform reinforcement followed by filling with screed.
In the remaining rooms of the internal structure of the bathhouse, it is still better to use wooden material, since cold, wet tiles are not the most pleasant covering for hot feet. Most suitable for the dressing room and rest room is larch board, which has moisture-resistant properties:
- Similar to the previous option, a sand cushion is placed on the ground;
- The perimeter of the room is surrounded by brick (concrete) supports, using a building level;
- The supports are wrapped with waterproofing film;
- A heat-insulating material (for example, expanded clay) is installed on the sand cushion;
- Specially treated logs are installed on strong supports (for these purposes it is recommended to use large-sized wooden beams);
- Thick tongue-and-groove larch boards are laid on top of the beams;
To decorate most of the interior spaces of a bathhouse, it is best to opt for natural wood.
Using self-tapping screws, baseboards are installed around the perimeter of the room; A panel of dense sheet metal must be installed in front of the combustion chamber so that fire sparks do not lead to a fire.
How and with what materials to decorate the pros and cons of natural and artificial
If a sauna or bath is considered, the most worthy materials are considered to be the following:
— lining;
- tile;
- stone.
Many people have a desire to use natural materials. The following advantages are noted:
- environmental friendliness;
- nice smell.
Minuses:
- scarce types of lining;
- a large percentage of defects.
There is a need to cover the bathhouse with artificial materials, it is also important to remember the advantages:
- high quality;
- durability.
Minuses:
- not a pleasant smell;
- cheap look.
Thus, natural and artificial options have many advantages and disadvantages.
Prevention of rotting of the lower crowns: protective measures
You can replace old logs in the crown, but after 2-3 years you will find them rotting again. To prevent this from happening, the lower crowns must be properly waterproofed and protected from rotting. Protection measures may be the following:
- Making lower crowns from larch, which is little susceptible to rotting. Instead of solid logs, you can use larch boards. They should be placed under the lower crown. This way, a protective layer that is not susceptible to fungi will be formed between the crown and the foundation. A good alternative to larch are oak logs and boards.
- Coating logs with antiseptic. You can use any water repellent, for example, antiseptics “Pinotex”, “Sadolin”, “Senezh Ognebio”, etc. Another popular “folk” antiseptic is machine processing. Its disadvantage is a sharp odor that does not disappear for a long time.
- Coating the base of the bath with a water repellent.
- Using several layers of roofing felt (2-3) to waterproof the joint between the crown and the foundation.
- Protection of the lower crowns from external moisture using canopies (for example, from galvanized strips).
Such simple methods will help you eliminate the cause of rotting and prevent the need to repeatedly replace the lower crowns of the bathhouse.
How to repair part of a log at the top of a bathhouse
In a situation where up to ¼ of the log is damaged, the crown is repaired by laying a patch made of the same wood as the wall material. The bathhouse wall repair diagram is shown below.
Initially, you will need to find the boundaries of the damage. To do this, a log or timber is tapped with a hammer to determine the presence of voids and rotting cavities.
The affected area is determined by the sound, markings are applied to the log with chalk and repairs begin:
- Ties made of metal strips, plywood or durable wood, larch or oak are filled along vertical marking lines;
- Using a chainsaw, they cut right through the wall of the bathhouse, remove the rotted area, trim and clean the ends of the log;
- Using a chisel and hammer, cut out halves of the log to the left and right of the cut for laying the overlapping patch. The wood is impregnated with an antiseptic, dried and rubbed with an adhesive mass;
- A patch cut to size is installed, and the joint is hammered in with nails or dowels.
Burning out or rotting of a small part of the log means that a large amount of moisture or condensation gets onto the base or lower crowns. If the reasons for the appearance of condensation or water on the foundation are not established, then the walls are subjected to preventive treatment.
External surfaces are cleaned with a steel bristle brush or the logs are sandblasted, after which they are treated with an antiseptic and impregnating oil. It is allowed to burn wood with an open flame if traces of bark beetles or mold were found, followed by etching the wood with chrome.
Sanding the surface may not be included in the renovation program, but stripping the logs not only improves the appearance, it is also an effective way to give the bathhouse a new look.