Despite the fact that the 21st century has long arrived, and gas or electric heating has become available to the majority of the population, the Russian stove continues to occupy a central place in some homes. It not only heats the home, but also serves as the “breadwinner” of the family - you can bake bread in it and prepare any dishes. In addition, her bed is a warm sleeping place, and not even for one person. She is also a “folk healer”: with the help of a Russian stove, many diseases were previously treated, and herbs were also dried for the winter for decoctions. And if the stove suddenly failed, it became a real disaster.
Why is there no draft in a Russian stove?
Possible problems include the appearance of smoke, sluggish combustion and incomplete burning of wood, and insufficient heating. All this indicates a lack of normal traction. And such a deficiency must be “treated” immediately, since there is a considerable threat to the health and even life of people. In this case, the question arises about why there is no draft in the Russian stove , and what needs to be done to restore its normal functionality as soon as possible.
Checking the draft quality in the chimney pipe
Smoke comes out of the house, and you need to start checking from the roof - from the chimney.
If the draft was good, but suddenly stopped, the cause may be an object that blocked the pipe. This happens especially often if there is no cap over the chimney and there are tall trees nearby. Any object can mechanically narrow the chimney channel: a nest made by birds, a brick falling out of the chimney, an accumulation of branches, debris. If there is no cap, the draft also disappears during strong winds. The air mass creates a turbulence in the pipe and blocks the path of smoke. It comes back and exits through the latches and doors. In calm weather there is no smoke in the house, and from this sign you can already understand its cause.
To determine further measures to eliminate smoke from the stove, it is necessary to check the quality of draft in the smoke exhaust system. Verification is carried out in one of the following ways:
- Using an anemometer. High-precision professional device for determining smoke draft.
- Ignition of flammable material. The burning material is brought to the chimney grate - with good draft, the flame is directed upward, with poor draft or its absence, it remains motionless.
- Visual check. If, when lighting the stove, the flame acquires a dark red tint, this indicates a decrease in draft. Good draft provides a light, almost white flame.
- Presence of a strong smell of smoke. If strong odors appear when the firebox is open, this indicates a mechanical blockage of the chimney system.
If the technology for arranging and lighting the stove is followed, the likelihood of smoke in the structure is minimal. But if a problem is still detected, then timely diagnosis and troubleshooting will ensure a long service life of the heating equipment.
There are many stoves in the modern world, but multi-variance is not suitable for a bathhouse; here, since ancient times, the first violin has been played by a wood-burning stove - brick or made of metal. Their internal structure is identical, and the problems that can arise are almost the same. The main thing is a “pillar of smoke” in the wrong direction.
Types of amplifiers
Deflectors are aerodynamic devices that specialize in deflecting air flow. With their help, you can adjust the traction force to the required parameters. The deflector fan works on a very simple principle: it sucks air from the atmosphere and directs it inside the chimney. The disadvantage of the device is its absolute helplessness during a quiet hike without wind.
The most common and effective deflectors are the designs of Grigorovich and Volpert. Modern improved deflectors are based on their prototypes. The most common designs are: round chimney nozzles (“Woppers”), star-shaped (“Shenards”) and H-shaped (multi-tiered). When choosing a deflector, carefully look at the material from which it is made. It should be stainless steel - a material that is durable and reliable.
Rotary flue turbines
Rotary turbines are mechanisms that are placed on top of smoke ducts. The principle of operation is similar to a fan, since they use wind energy to increase the pressure inside the pipe. Advantages of rotary turbines: they cover the chimney pipe and prevent the entry of precipitation. The device does not work in calm weather.
The most popular brands: Turbomax, Turbovent and Rotowent. Turbovent products are not suitable for installation on ducts for removing flue gases from furnaces.
It is also necessary to ensure that the temperature of the outgoing gas does not exceed a threshold of 250 degrees (these are standard requirements, which may differ for different models). Rotary pipes are installed for gas heating boilers.
Chimney weather vanes
Chimney weather vanes are a device for protecting the chimney on the leeward side. The model is characterized by good resistance to the negative effects of precipitation, a long service life and the presence of protective mechanisms for smoke exhaust. During the operation of weather vanes, one drawback was noted: they cannot cope with strong winds, and weather vanes also require careful maintenance - regular lubrication (especially in winter) and cleaning of soot and flue gases.
Smoke weather vane Duck and Dog – video review
The weather vane fan works on the principle of a stabilizer: it reduces the effect of strong wind on the draft in the chimney or enhances it in the absence of movement of gas masses in the atmosphere. The type of device in question is excellent for wood-burning fireplaces.
Chimney smoke exhausters
Smoke exhausters are electric heat-resistant fans for smoke exhaust. It is recommended to install these devices for adjusting the traction force only for narrow pipes. For its operation, access to an electrical network with a power of 220 V is required. Modern smoke exhausters have several upgrades, thanks to which the problems of reverse and weak draft are solved. The electric mechanism has no drawbacks; it works perfectly in calm and windy weather.
Caps and umbrellas are decorative elements for chimneys that do not solve the problem of low draft. After their installation, owners of heating devices noted additional problems: the formation of condensation on the surface of hoods and umbrellas, as a result of which the fan of the above devices quickly became unusable.
Thus, a wide variety of mechanisms for increasing traction cope well with the problem posed. The above models, in addition to smoke exhausters, have one drawback in common: they are too dependent on weather conditions. Therefore, to increase draft in the chimney, it is better to choose an electric smoke exhauster.
Manufacturing of devices to enhance traction
The chimney is clogged
It also happens that for some time everything works flawlessly and suddenly one day the stove in the bathhouse starts smoking. What should you do in this case? The reason for this may be a chimney clogged with soot. The problem is solved by simple cleaning. You need to know how to clean a chimney in a bathhouse correctly. If the pipe has no bends, then this will be quite easy to do. Take a rope, attach a brush with a weight to it, and use this device to clean the chimney.
An overcooled chimney pipe can also cause poor draft. This happens in cases where the stove has not been used for a long time. To solve this problem, the chimney should be heated. This is done using a lit rag, which should be soaked in kerosene. The pipe will heat up and there will be no more problems with the operation of the furnace.
Due to the use of low-quality firewood, soot may settle on the inner walls of the chimney. To avoid this, you should first light the stove and then add firewood.
There are stoves in which the size of the blower is equal to the width of the stove. The air entering the furnace from the blower is pushed away from the back wall and goes out. To solve this problem, it is necessary to close part of the blower.
Stabilizing devices
The reason for the lack of draft in a chimney located in a bathhouse in a residential building may be overheating of the outlet pipe, leading to a temperature difference and sedimentation of combustion products on the inner walls of the pipe in the form of condensate.
The stabilizing device consists of a regulator equipped with a temperature sensor and a fuse damper. When the temperature rises, the sensor gives a command to open the damper, and cold air flows through the hole, equalizing temperatures and pressures.
Pipe cleaning
Work should begin with cleaning the chimney. All doors in the stove and smoke ducts must be tightly closed and secured. If a large amount of soot falls from a height of 3-4 m, dust may be released into the house. A special brush is used for cleaning; if you don’t have a ready-made one, you can do it yourself.
The device will require a strong rope or cable. At one end you should attach a weight weighing 2-3 kg and a pair of old hard washcloths. You can use a fluffy ball of wire, stiff cord, or something similar. The fastening must be strong; parts that come off and get stuck in the pipe can cause a lot of problems.
You need to climb onto the roof with the brush, lower it into the pipe, pull it up and down several times, if possible, rotating and swinging it to the sides. Similar work needs to be done to understand why the fireplace is smoking. If after cleaning the operation stabilizes, the problem is solved. Otherwise, you need to look further.
If the stove is used for seasonal heating and cooking, the chimney should be cleaned once a quarter. This should be done more often if resinous or damp firewood is used. This causes excessive deposits and narrowing of the lumen. Mechanical cleaning can be done independently using traditional techniques that have not changed over the past centuries. Work is carried out wearing protective glasses and gloves. For activities at heights, you need non-slip shoes and insurance.
From the roof side
You will need a cable on which hard brushes are attached to clean the chimney from soot, and a heavy round weight with an eye. A brush can be made from an old plastic bottle.
Cleaning is carried out in five stages:
- To prevent soot from entering, cover the firebox and hatches with a wet rag.
- Remove the head and inspect the canal.
- Clean with a broom to remove cobwebs and debris.
- Use a weight to break through the blockage several times.
- Clean the chimney walls with brushes.
Finally, you will need to clean up the soot from the roof and inside the firebox.
From the oven side
Cleaning the chimney from the stove side
You need a special brush with a rigid but flexible fiberglass cable. It can be purchased at a hardware store.
Cleansing also takes place in five steps:
- Unscrew the hatch plug for cleaning,
- Clear the entrance of debris.
- Attach a suitable brush (for metal pipes only a plastic one).
- Clean the canal, slowly moving the instrument upward.
- The firebox is cleaned in the same way.
You can use traditional methods. Periodically complete the kindling with a few alder or aspen logs. This prevents the formation of soot. But you should not add any powders to the firewood, since some of these methods can lead to an explosion.
To prevent the stove from smoking, check the draft periodically. Do not use coniferous or wet firewood or garbage. From time to time, carry out preventive inspections of the chimney, because most often the stove smoke occurs due to its clogging. However, other problems can also lead to this. If you correctly determine the cause, you can quickly correct the situation yourself or with the help of a specialist.
Causes of smoke in new heating stoves
What to do if a newly installed stove smokes? Often the cause of smoke is structural inconsistencies, non-compliance with the technology of the masonry process, insufficient ventilation, and the absence of a distribution box.
Incorrect chimney height
The main reason for smoke in new stoves is a miscalculation of the height of the chimney pipe. Heating equipment for a Russian bathhouse and a private house must meet the following parameters:
- The size of the stove pipe opening depending on the type of fuel: 140×140 mm (coal) and 140×270 mm (peat briquettes, firewood).
- The height of the chimney above the roof is 75 cm, the elevation above the ridge is 50 cm. If the ridge is more than 1.5 meters away from the chimney, then the chimney can be of a similar height.
If the height of the chimney is not sufficient to prevent smoke, then you can increase it yourself.
Why does the stove smoke when the door is opened during the lighting process? A similar problem arises when there are serious design miscalculations: incorrect cross-section of the exhaust pipe, low location of the inlet channel, unswept chimney. To eliminate the shortcomings, a major overhaul of the heating equipment will be required.
Violation of stove and well construction technology
The required clearance of the chimney pipe ensures quick and safe removal of fuel combustion products. The minimum pipe diameter for a house is 15 cm, for a bathhouse – 10 cm. The height of the pipe and its installation location on the roof must correspond to the chosen design of the heating stove.
In addition, the inlet to the first well (in the combustion chamber) must be located no lower than the top of the door, otherwise this may lead to smoke every time the stove is lit. The shortcomings can only be corrected by rebuilding the furnace structure.
When assembling the chimney, you should avoid using elements of different sections, which can be the main cause of smoke in the stove. The best option is a round pipe. Rectangular smoke exhaust channels can create unnecessary air vortices and increase soot deposition.
Poor ventilation
Another reason why a new furnace starts to smoke is poor ventilation. As a rule, when installing a forced-type ventilation system, building owners provide exhaust hood only in functional rooms - a sanitary unit, a kitchen or a dressing room. However, a separate smoke channel must also be equipped in rooms where normal movement of air masses is required: in the steam room and washing room.
No distribution box
If there are two heating stoves installed in a building, for which a common smoke exhaust system is provided, then smoke occurs as a result of the absence of a distribution box.
To eliminate this problem, it is enough to make a distribution box with two separate channels or operate the furnaces alternately.
The distribution box is a special brick partition located inside the common chimney.
Stabilizer installation
The chimney draft stabilizer involves the installation of an additional structure in which a gas boiler draft sensor is built-in.
To install the system, a so-called umbrella is installed on the chimney pipe. Between the open part of the hood and the smoke outlet pipe there is free space through which air flows freely pass. With its help, the stability of the air flow is monitored to determine the desired level of traction force in the chimney pipe. If necessary, a special gas boiler draft sensor is installed in the cap on the chimney pipe. He monitors the temperature inside the chimney. The sensor is triggered when the temperature of the gases rising through the pipe decreases.
Technical nuances
Overheating is equally dangerous for both metal and refractory brickwork, especially in the seams. Metal parts are prone to warping, bending, directional twisting, and burning. This is especially true for lightweight steel stove models. A few subtle but serious defects are already enough to cause a headache like why an iron stove smokes in a bathhouse. And if burnouts can, in most cases, be melted by inverter welding with repair heat-resistant electrodes or eliminated by applying patches, which is more correct, then warping and other linear deformations must be straightened, often painstakingly embroidering problem areas using an angle grinder cutting disc, and then restoring and strengthening the damaged geometry of various kinds of inserts, scarves, segments and other additional elements.
A few words should be said about why there is poor draft in the furnace, which is associated with the production culture determined by the construction of the furnace and the technical arrangement of smoke channels. Like any heating device whose operation involves burning fuel, the stove emits combustion products, both solid and gaseous. The dynamics of gases is associated, first of all, with the presence of certain obstacles in their path. It is not without reason that when constructing a chimney, responsible executors use such a technological technique as “scraping”, the essence of which is to eliminate various types of irregularities and obstacles in ducts, chimneys, distributors, and outlets. In metal single-wall pipes, a mandatory element is a condensate receiver glass, the purpose of which is to collect and remove condensate from the zone of movement of flue gases, preventing them from being moistened and cooled. The presence of these elements, as well as a sufficient number of service doors, will help to avoid an unpleasant situation when the stove in the bathhouse smokes, what to do, where to run.
The occurrence of backdraft in the furnace
Diagram of normal draft in a chimney
Reverse thrust can be detected with the naked eye. If the stove smokes when lighting, then this effect occurs. In theory, smoke should rise upward, since it has a lower density relative to cold air. If the stove smokes into the room, it means that something in these processes has broken down and does not allow the smoke to comfortably leave the stove space. There are several reasons that, to one degree or another, affect the release of smoke into the chimney. It’s worth talking to us in more detail.
In cases where the stove has not been used for several days, backdraft may form in the chimney. This means that air flows do not move outside, but into the room. This phenomenon quite often becomes the reason why the stove smokes when lighting.
Please note that weather conditions have nothing to do with this phenomenon - reverse draft appears in both warm and cold seasons
It is worth noting that draft overturning is possible even in stoves with an ideal design, assembled by experienced stove makers.
So, the answer to the question of what to do if the stove smokes into the house is to increase the air temperature inside the chimney. Moreover, these manipulations can be performed independently.
Warming up the chimney can be done in the following ways:
- Treating the internal surface of the chimney using a hair dryer through the open door to remove soot.
- Gaining access to the chimney by dismantling or opening the hog in the attic and further heating it with a hair dryer or other devices.
- The cap is removed from the top of the chimney and lit paper is thrown into the chimney.
Where to begin
First of all, when smoke appears, you need to inspect the chimney and check if there are any foreign objects that interfere with proper operation. Some, in order to reduce the likelihood of objects appearing in the chimney, install special caps that protect the pipe.
If this was not the reason, then the pipe walls are checked further and the amount of accumulated soot is determined. The lack of proper draft force may be due to infrequent cleaning or a completely incorrect chimney structure.
In the case where the cause of smoke is a dirty pipe, it can be cleaned in several ways:
- Use special equipment. With its help, a strong water pressure is created, with the help of which plaque and foreign objects are removed from the chimney.
- If the soot layer does not exceed 2 mm, then powder or liquid mixtures with a chemical composition can be used.
- When the soot deposit is more than 2mm, you should resort to mechanical cleaning. Such cleaning on a day without rain or wind. Clean the build-up with a scraper, then use a brush. If this method does not bring much results, then a weight tied to a cable that needs to be thrown into the chimney opening will help.
Why does the new stove smoke?
Design flaws
What to do if a new stove smokes? In most cases, the cause is design miscalculations and violations of masonry technology. The heating furnace must have the following parameters:
- The chimney opening is 14*27 cm (firewood, peat) or 14*14 cm (coal).
- The height of the chimney is 6 cm from the stove grate to the top.
- The height of the pipe above the roof is at least 70 cm, but at least 50 cm above the ridge. The exception is when the ridge is located at a distance of more than 1.5 meters - then the pipe can be made of the same height.
The cause of smoke may be a pipe that is too narrow
If the internal dimensions of the chimney can only be corrected by a professional stove maker, then you can try to solve problems with the pipe yourself:
- Explore the area surrounding the house. If there are tall trees or walls nearby, the wind can blow into the chimney and drive smoke indoors. In this case, you need to put a cap on the top of the pipe, and with a 90% chance the problem will be solved.
- A stove in a house or bathhouse may smoke due to insufficient chimney height. Ideally, it needs to be increased, but this is not always realistic. If the heating season has already begun, you can lengthen the pipe using improvised means by placing one or two metal buckets without a bottom on it. This design does not look very aesthetically pleasing, but it will last through the winter.
Scheme for determining the height of the chimney
Putting a new furnace into operation
The service life of the furnace and its uninterrupted operation depend on how correctly it was put into operation. After completion of the masonry, a lot of moisture remains in the materials, which must be removed before the start of the heating season. The drying period lasts 7-10 days in the warm season and up to 3 weeks in the cold season. The process takes place in several stages:
- Open all valves and constantly ventilate the room in which the oven is located. Drying should continue until wet spots disappear from the walls and condensation stops appearing on metal parts.
- After 5-6 days, light a small fire in the morning and evening. Gradually increase the volume of firewood.
- Do not try to speed up the process by using too active a firebox. Overheating can lead to cracks and crevices in the masonry.
The stove in the bathhouse can also smoke due to improper kindling. To avoid smoke, just follow these simple rules:
- Clean the ash pan and firebox. This must be done before each use of the oven.
- Open the valve and place the kindling on the grate. A splinter, birch bark or dry wood chips will do.
- Open the ash door slightly and light the kindling. After this, load the firebox with firewood. Lay them in tight horizontal rows.
- Close the firebox and open the blower door completely.
- Reload the firewood after 30-40 minutes. During this time, the previous batch should burn down to large coals. Try not to open the firebox between fills to prevent cold air from entering the oven.
- Regulate the combustion process using a blower and valve. The flame should be calm and straw-colored. If the fire turns pale, you need to close the ash door - this will reduce the air flow. If it gets dark, you need to open the door.
- For the last stack, it is best to use aspen firewood. They create a long flame and burn off accumulated soot.
- After the last batch of wood has burned through, rake the remaining coals onto the grate. The valve can be closed when the coals darken and no bluish lights appear above them.
Many people believe that heating can be done with any materials. If only they burned. With this approach, sooner or later the question arises as to why the stove smokes when the door is open or when lighting is started. The reasons may be as follows:
- Small debris does not burn through completely. Light particles are picked up by the air flow, and they settle on the walls of the chimney.
- Remains of glossy paper clog the grate.
- Damp firewood causes excess soot formation.
It is best to use dry birch firewood, approximately equal in size, as fuel. Other hardwoods found in the middle zone are also suitable - aspen, ash, alder, poplar, oak. Willow produces little heat and burns unevenly.
If you have eliminated all possible causes and the stove continues to smoke, do not be a hero and contact a specialist. Malfunctions in the operation of the stove can lead not only to the appearance of a specific odor, but also to carbon monoxide poisoning or a fire. Be careful!
Strengthening methods
In order for the chimney to function optimally, the smoke flow that rises from the heating equipment must have a pressure of about 10-20 Pa. To determine the traction force you will need to use an anemometer. When the results are obtained, a decision can be made to increase or decrease traction.
There are many options for normalizing the draft in a chimney:
- use various stabilizing devices;
- install special smoke exhausters;
- extend the chimney.
All of these methods have certain advantages that are worth considering.
Chimney extension
The simplest way to increase draft is to lengthen the smoke exhaust pipe. By increasing the distance between the heating device and the end of the chimney, a certain vacuum is created. The pressure in different parts of the chimney becomes different. For a pipe that removes smoke, a height of 5-6 m is usually maintained. This does not take into account the length of the pipe from the vertical section of the chimney to the boiler. Such chimneys should not have bends or narrowings.
If the roof is high, or it is located near large objects, this solution will be the best. However, if the chimney is high enough, the draft can become excessively high. In this case, a significant part of the heat will be spent on heating the street air. To prevent this situation, you will need to use dampers that can reduce the volume of exhaust gases. Extending a chimney with your own hands is quite simple.
Installation of deflectors
The deflector is a design that allows air to be distributed more efficiently in order to increase draft in the chimney. The design of the deflector should be as simple as possible. This will improve the efficiency of the chimney. Flows that are reflected from the roof, as well as side winds, can significantly increase the traction force, sucking smoke from the chimney. Even if there is a strong wind, the deflector will prevent the thrust from tipping over. Therefore, the size of the traction amplifier is selected according to the wind load in a particular area.
If you wish, you can build such a device yourself. To do this, you will need standard tools, hardware and knowledge of the basic principles of working with metal. The diagram of such a device is shown in the photo.
To make a device, you will need to prepare the following tools:
- roulette;
- electric drill;
- Bulgarian;
- drill;
- square;
- self-tapping screws equipped with a press washer.
When the necessary calculations have been carried out, and the contours of the parts have been applied to the sheets of metal, you can begin the main work:
- cut out certain parts;
- twist the nozzle and secure its edges with rivets;
- assemble the cones of the device;
- Before assembling the umbrella, you should install pins in the lower cone to secure it to the common body.
Vane
The design is a universal draft amplifier, which has a simple design and allows you to avoid lengthening the smoke exhaust pipe. However, it depends on the strength of the wind. When there is no wind, the traction force does not decrease. To figure out how to make a weather vane with your own hands, you will need to get acquainted with the diagram of the device.
It is necessary to install a wing on the head that can protect the edge of the chimney from the effects of wind, but only on one side. The device is equipped with a blade. It is fixed opposite the place where the weather vane is attached. Thanks to this, the device constantly closes the mouth from the wind. They constantly flow around it, which allows increasing the discharge at the outlet. As a result, the craving increases.
Causes in the stove
The draft of the furnace depends on many factors, ranging from design solutions, the quality of the masonry, to meteorological factors and the need for periodic maintenance of the entire furnace system. Let's take a closer look at why there is poor draft in the furnace and what the possible reasons may be due to the design features:
- chimney design,
- pipe size,
- brick falling into the chimney,
- the chimney is clogged with soot.
Chimney design
The simplest chimney design is straight. Exit outside the premises occurs directly through the pipe. This can be observed in the example of simple “stove stoves” in temporary premises, tourist stoves and in the case of fireplaces.
The straight design provides the best draft, which is what is used for open fireplace fireplaces and temporary stoves. The draft in such a pipe near the stove is almost ideal and is less dependent on external factors.
But in stove heating systems of a home, the chimney is arranged through a heater. The purpose of such a stove is to heat the room and retain heat for as long as possible.
Pipe size
How to increase draft in a stove if the chimney design is with a heater? All things being equal, the higher the pipe, the better the traction. But it's not that simple. A pipe that is too high will be affected more by winds, and if the pipe is too high, the draft may be unnecessary. Excessive draft leads to faster combustion of fuel and an increase in the combustion temperature in the furnace, which is unfavorable for masonry.
At the same time, rapid combustion does not have time to heat the entire heater array.
The optimal height of the chimney is about 5 meters or slightly above the ridge of the roof, in order to avoid exposure to air turbulence from it.
By the way, according to fire regulations, the length of the chimney above the ridge of the roof allows you to place the exit at any distance from it. Whereas, the lower pipe should be located from the edge of the roof and the ridge at a certain distance. These reasons must be provided for when laying the furnace; they cannot be corrected during operation.
Brick collapse
The causes of poor draft, which depend on the care of the stove and which can be eliminated as they occur, are temporary.
The draft of the correct chimney for your stove may also depend on temporary factors. One of these is the collapse of a brick inside a chimney. This happens most often due to poor quality material, but it may also be due to the reason mentioned above. Burnout of bricks at high temperatures of fuel combustion is one of the main causes of premature breakdowns. Pieces from cracked bricks clog the chimney where it turns and interfere with the free passage of gases. Clogging with foreign objects and soot is the main temporary problem when operating any furnace.
In this situation, you will have to redo the chimney.
The chimney is clogged with soot
There are several reasons for this problem. First of all, the possibility of clogging is affected by the design of the chimney. The more turns, the more opportunities for soot from combustion products to settle.
The more “wells” there are in a heater’s design, the more often it is necessary to clean the chimney and pipe due to a decrease in the speed of smoke passage and a decrease in draft. In this case, a vicious circle results - soot reduces thrust, and as thrust decreases, soot is deposited even more intensely.
Lots of soot
How to improve draft with such a problem in the oven without cleaning it in the standard way?
There are several methods - heat the stove for 24 hours with dry wood with a low resin content, briefly create a high combustion rate when burning flammable materials. Often, soot deposition also contributes to the formation of frost on the inner surface of the pipe.
To prevent this, if you leave the house for a long time, you need to close the pipe damper in time, which will prevent hot air from coming into contact with environmental humidity. If the chimney is neglected and clogged with foreign objects, cleaning is essential.
Elimination of these causes is carried out:
External factors
Why is there poor draft in the stove if it is built correctly and the chimneys have recently been cleaned? In addition to the above reasons, stove draft depends on external environmental factors and weather.
The most common of them:
- improper ventilation in the house,
- fluctuations in temperature and humidity outside,
- wind and other climatic factors.
Let us consider in more detail what we have to do in these cases.
Ventilation failure
The influx of fresh air helps to establish the required pressure difference in the stove and chimney. If the house is cold and the stove has not been fired for a long time, this difference is minimal. And the lack of air in the combustion room can create a temporary vacuum in the room and provoke reverse draft. On the other hand, excessive drafts are also unfavorable, since vortex air flows can disrupt the air flow into the firebox and disrupt proper draft.
This is often observed in the summer, and also if the windows are located above the firebox level, in this case it will be easier for the hot air to change direction towards the exhaust through the window. You need to be especially careful with gas stoves; there is a danger of not only changing the direction of draft, but also extinguishing the burner and filling the room with gas.
Before the first attempts to light the stove, it is necessary to check not only the draft in the firebox, but also the air movement in the room, and when using the stove, constantly monitor the ventilation. This is also necessary to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning.
Strong wind
Gusts of strong wind may temporarily prevent smoke from escaping from the chimney. With such a disruption of the flow of hot gas, the thrust may work in the opposite direction. This happens more often with chimneys connected directly to the firebox without passing through heating wells.
The situation in the wind is also worsened by the horizontal location of the pipe exit, which is often used in the utility rooms of the lower floors of the house (exit through the wall).
Protection from the prevailing winds in a given area is provided with the help of pipe caps, “smoke chambers” or “wind vanes”. They also prevent getting wet during rain and snow. The humidity of the outside air is another obstacle to good traction.
Installing a chimney will solve the problem
High humidity
This factor is indirect, but no less unpleasant. High humidity in the external air can form due to low atmospheric pressure, which already reduces draft. The increased density of the humid surrounding atmosphere reduces rarefaction and impairs the movement of smoke.
It is easy to notice that during rain and snow, smoke reluctantly comes out of the chimney, spreads along the roof, and with every gust of wind escapes through the stove door into the room. And vice versa, in clear dry weather the draft is excellent and the smoke rises to the sky. Finally, with high humidity in winter, a dense coating of frost forms in the pipe, which sharply reduces the cross-section and prevents the normal release of gases.
In this situation, you will have to clean the chimney frequently.
Rollover traction
This process can occur after a long period of absence of heating in the stove. Simply put, it hasn’t been drowned for a long time. The chimney and stove cool down to a temperature comparable to the street temperature. As a result, warm air cannot leave the chimney, since there is no heat-conducting flow. To eliminate rollover, there are several proven folk methods. All of them are aimed at increasing the temperature in the chimney area. Here are a few of the most obvious ones:
- Every stove contains a door for cleaning the chimney. It is worth trying to heat the air here by setting fire to paper or any readily available fast-burning material;
- the previous point can be repeated for a hog in the attic. That is, open it and warm the air in this area;
- Well, the most emergency way is to throw burning materials inside the pipe. This method is worth using if others have not helped.
Main causes of smoke
If the stove smokes into the house, and not out into the street through a pipe, then this is a good reason to look for breakdowns in the heating system and to carry out timely repair work. There are a huge number of reasons, but eliminating them requires various efforts, tools, and knowledge.
Reduced traction
It happens that smoke starts inside the house the first time the system is started. And then the owners wonder why the new stove, installed in accordance with all the rules and recommendations, smokes. Usually the main reason in this case is the loss or weakening of draft, which plays an important role in the operation of the entire heating structure.
Bringing power above normal
In duct, bell-type and other brick stoves, there is a certain power level that should not be exceeded, overheating the system to excessive heat generation capacity.
When you try to boost the power of a brick system, smoke almost always begins in the room, since the structure cannot cope with the smoke escaping into the chimney.
Don't squeeze the maximum out of the stove
Insufficient air flow
For good combustion, fire needs oxygen - everyone knows this, but few people understand that for the proper functioning of the stove and its chimney, a sufficient amount of air is also required.
Even in severe frost, you should not tightly close all the doors and windows, but if you have forgotten about this and the stove is smoking into the house, then you can try to save the situation by opening the window or the entrance doors - perhaps the heating system has simply begun to “suffocate.”
Open the window
Rollover traction
A virtually uncontrollable process is the reverse draft of the heating system. It happens that even a new stove smokes if there is strong windy weather outside. Do not panic if smoke begins to occur for this reason - usually the wind subsides quickly, and operation of the stove can continue as usual.
Structural violations
The most unpleasant reason for the stove to smoke into the house may be improper installation, installation or construction. If there are violations in the design, the stove usually does not heat well, often smokes small doses of toxic air, and over time begins to emit large clouds of smoke.
If it turns out that the cause was an incorrectly installed structure, then the heating system will have to be redone, often completely.
In some cases, you can get by with partial relocation, usually with the following structural damage:
- Brick splitting in the firebox
- Small crack in chimney
- Disabling the blower,
- Collapse of solution inside the firebox.
If destruction has begun in the structure, then it is better to completely rebuild it, since partial repairs may not help, and the system will continue to collapse in the future.
Furnace wear
Incorrect operation of the heating system may result from wear and tear of the furnace, due to improper operation or frequent boosting of the furnace power. When the structure wears out, various damage occurs on it, from which smoke often pours out.
It should be understood that too large cracks or breaks can lead to a fire, so if they are detected, repair work must be carried out immediately.
Large cracks
Soot in the chimney
The most common reason for the malfunction of the chimney and the emission of toxic smoke into the room is poor draft due to a pipeline clogged with soot.
Soot
If such a problem occurs, it is very important to promptly clean the chimney from the accumulation of soot; this is done using various devices: a hammer, a brush with a weight or other tools. For preventative purposes, once a week it is necessary to heat the stove with aspen logs, which, when burned, can release soot along with smoke through the chimney to the street.
For preventive purposes, once a week it is necessary to heat the stove with aspen logs, which, when burned, can release soot along with smoke through the chimney into the street.
Preventing blockages in the chimney
Smoke when lighting
The stove smokes when lit in the cold season. This problem often occurs with ovens that are not used regularly. For example, the unit is located in a bathhouse or country house. A column of cold air forms a plug in the chimney that blocks the draft. Stove makers advise getting rid of it in the following ways:
- bring a burning torch to the smoke collector,
- burn a piece of paper directly next to the smoke collector.
These techniques allow the plug to warm up, rise up and come out. The problem of cold plug occurs not only with brick, but also with metal stoves that are installed in bathhouses and saunas (heaters). If the house is 2-story, you should know that the plug often collects in the horizontal part of the chimney, if it is on the 2nd floor. According to masonry technology, the length of this section (box) should not be more than 2 m.
Conclusion
The main thing in the design of a stove is the correct calculation of the parameters of the firebox and chimney. Seek help from specialists. Laying stoves is a very difficult task; it is no coincidence that the skill of a stove maker has been highly valued at all times. The second aspect of this problem is to use only high-quality materials that can withstand high temperatures and do not collapse.
Periodic maintenance of the chimney and firebox will not only eliminate draft problems, but also ensure fire safety. Monitor weather changes, use all stove settings correctly, and use high-quality fuel. If these simple conditions are met, your home will always be warm and cozy.
