✅ Bathhouse barrel is insulated

The mobility of a barrel sauna often leads one to believe that this type of sauna is only suitable for use in the summer. Thin walls cause mistrust. Many fear that they will not be able to retain precious heat when frost hits. Someone starts talking about the need for insulation. In fact, the barrel sauna is a unique hermetic structure that is suitable for use in winter and summer. Moreover, you can buy a barrel sauna and install it on your own site without waiting for the warm season.

Operating a barrel sauna in winter

Bathhouse made of barrel boards insulated with foil insulation

When insulating a barrel bath, in addition to the insulation, you also need to purchase lining, which will have to be used to finish the walls. Let's calculate the required amount of insulation. The standard width of foil insulation is 600 mm or 1200 mm. The circumference is 6.28 m, the length of the bath is 6 meters, therefore, we need 6000/1200 = 5 segments 6.28 m long. 6.28 * 5 = 31.4 m of insulation. Insulation of the partitions is also necessary and will amount to 3.14 * 3 = 9.42 m2, that is, approximately another 8 m of insulation with a width of 1200 mm. As a result, we get about 40 meters of insulation costing 2,500 rubles. To seal the joints of the insulation, use foil tape ( 350 rubles).

Kindling and warming up a barrel sauna in cold winter

When the thermometer drops strongly, the cozy warmth of a wooden bathhouse becomes especially welcome. However, comfort is directly related to good heating of the bath room. The thin walls of a barrel sauna respond to warm air much faster than the thick, icy logs of a log house. And if you use a powerful electric oven, you can achieve results in just an hour and a half. At the same time, the presence of a remote control allows you to warm up the bath without leaving your home.

If a traditional oven is used, then there are advantages of a different kind. It's about efficiency. To kindle the entire structure you will need no more than ten logs. In just two hours, the bathhouse will warm up to one hundred degrees.

Barrel sauna in winter: no drafts or cold floors!

Thousands of years have passed since the invention of the barrel. At the same time, its design remains unique and is being used in more and more new areas. The value of a barrel when constructing a bathhouse in it lies in the ability to provide a natural convection regime.

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In winter, when the door to the sauna room opens, there is a very sharp temperature drop like never before. Cold air rushing into a heated locker room or steam room settles on the floor, creating an unpleasant draft effect. The rounded design of the Finnish novelty promotes natural air circulation in it. The heat, descending along the walls, captures cold air and warms it up. Thus, the floor becomes warm, the atmosphere is cozy, and the visit to the bathhouse itself is comfortable.

Is it necessary to insulate the foundation of a bathhouse from the outside?

To make sure of the importance of external foundation insulation, it is worth considering 5 reasons:

On a cold foundation in winter, a temperature difference forms in a heated bathhouse. The resulting condensation destroys the concrete base.
The problem with condensation occurs even in summer. An uninsulated foundation is heated by the sun from the outside, but the cold and moisture of the earth is drawn from the inside. The temperature difference is similar.
A foundation that is not insulated from the outside cools the steam room faster. The bathhouse has to be heated more often.
On the outside, thermal insulation in winter softens the impact of heaving soil on the foundation.
A thick layer of thermal insulation on the outside protects the foundation from destruction and accidental mechanical influences.

The listed 5 reasons convince us that insulating the foundation of a bathhouse from the outside is necessary. It can be carried out simultaneously with thermal insulation from the inside. It is impossible to do only internal insulation of the base of the bathhouse. Due to temperature changes, concrete will begin to collapse on the street side.

How to insulate the foundation of a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands

There are different ways to insulate the base from the outside. They all depend on the type of soil where the bathhouse is built, as well as on the design of the foundation itself.

The strip foundation is dug around the outside with a trench 50 cm wide. The depth is maintained at least 80 cm. A 20 cm layer of sand is poured into the trench. The concrete strip is cleaned of dirt and treated with hot bitumen. After the waterproofing has hardened, the base is covered with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam. Plates 15 cm thick are glued with foam and additionally secured with dowels and umbrellas. When using expanded polystyrene, the gap between the trench wall and the insulation is filled with sand. The foam is covered with a brick wall. From above, the entire pie around the base is filled with a concrete blind area at an angle of 15 o.

A monolithic foundation is usually laid under a bathhouse in a swampy area. The base is insulated during the construction stage. Expanded polystyrene is embedded between the layers of concrete screed. On the walls outside the foundation of the bathhouse, insulation with your own hands occurs according to the principle of a strip base.

The columnar foundation creates a gap between the soil and the lower crown of the bathhouse. To insulate it, it needs to be bricked. First, a trench is dug along the perimeter of the bathhouse. The parameters are the same as for insulating a concrete strip. The bottom of the trench is covered with a 25 cm layer of sand and filled with water. When the pillow is compacted, they begin to lay out the wall. Concrete can be poured up to the ground level, and rows of bricks can be laid above. A gap is left between the last row and the crown of the bath and filled with polyurethane foam. The built base is insulated from the outside using the strip foundation method.

Finnish technologies

The barrel sauna, made in compliance with real Finnish technologies, does not require the use of insulation. Otherwise, it would not only increase the cost of the entire structure, but also reduce its service life. Even the best insulation will retain moisture and create favorable conditions for the spread of fungus and bacteria. Gradually, the wood will begin to rot, cracks will appear, and the seal will be compromised.

The wall thickness of 42 mm will allow you to cope with frost without insulation. It corresponds to a brickwork thickness of 200 mm.

If you heat the steam room in cold weather to one hundred degrees, it will cool down only after a couple of hours. In this case, there is always the opportunity to add firewood or turn on additional heating. If necessary, you can constantly maintain the desired temperature in the bath.

Selecting materials

Take your choice of building material seriously

To make spending time in a barrel sauna as comfortable as possible, pay special attention to the choice of wood from which it will be built. A stationary bathhouse can be built from almost any material, because inside it you can build a lining from more suitable raw materials. This option is not suitable for a barrel sauna. For it you need to immediately select good material.

For example, coniferous trees are completely unsuitable material for the construction of such a structure due to the release of resinous substances when heated, which can burn the skin. The exception is cedar. The numerous healing and aromatherapy properties it is endowed with are perfect for baths. The technical qualities of this type of wood are also high: the material is not subject to deformation, cracks do not appear on it due to temperature changes, does not shrink, is moisture resistant and is not afraid of microorganisms. The variety of color shades and textured patterns of cedar is impressive.

Another great option for building such a bathhouse is oak. It has a strong and solid structure, due to which the structure will be durable. Moisture does not act destructively on oak, but, on the contrary, hardens it. The tree becomes more durable. Oak is famous for its deep, rich dark shades, has excellent textured patterns and healing properties. The disadvantage of oak wood is its high price. Because of this, it is very rare to come across a barrel sauna made entirely of oak. More often, separate parts are constructed from this rock.

Barrel sauna in winter on New Year's Eve

If during the summer a bathhouse did not appear on your suburban area, this does not mean that this winter you will be deprived of the joys and benefits of a warm bathhouse. Barrel saunas, as well as the equally popular Parna quad saunas, are manufactured in a special assembly workshop within a few days, regardless of the weather outside.

Assembly will take an hour. Our specialists will deliver the structural elements to your chosen location and carry out installation. Already on the same day you will be able to enjoy the healing steam. You can also build a barrel sauna with your own hands by pre-ordering a ready-made kit from us and save up to 71,000 rubles on your purchase.

The barrel sauna can be used all year round, including winter. Even in 20-degree frost, it will cope with its function flawlessly. Thin walls in this case are not a hindrance, but a help. They warm up easier, and retain heat so well that there is no need to heat the room. The entire structure is supplied without insulation, which makes this invention unique, causing confusion among skeptics. However, numerous reviews from owners about the use of a barrel sauna in winter confirm the effectiveness of the technologies used.

How to buy a barrel sauna with a profit of up to 100 thousand

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Barrel sauna. Experience of use in winter and off-season.

from Alexy

Review and review of the barrel sauna. Operation in winter and off-season.

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Before this, an article was already published on the Ruscamping website describing the first impressions of the barrel sauna; impressions of its operation in the off-season (autumn, early spring) and winter will be continued here. Well, personal experience.

First , in order for the bathhouse to be heated quickly and until it gets hot in winter and late autumn, you need to take care of dry firewood . Otherwise, I didn’t notice much difference in the time it took to heat the barrel bath until it was ready; it heats up just as quickly as in the summer. It cools down after the stove stops burning, of course, much faster.

For those who have a bathhouse with several compartments (and I have one with three), heating the entire bathhouse with open internal doors in winter takes more time - it takes an extra hour to heat.

To speed up the heating process of the bath, I adapted a small infrared heater to heat the dressing room and wash compartment.
I light up the stove, close the steam room, and turn on the heater in the dressing room, leaving the door to the wash room open. Ideally, place a small infrared lamp in each compartment (a good option is an infrared film strip along the ceiling and under the seats, which heats objects, in our case the walls and floor of a barrel sauna, even in a draft). some doubts about what would happen under the bathhouse by spring. What this means is that when washing, the water goes under the bathhouse through one small hole, so it should freeze there in the cold ... So far, as of the end of January, the water is leaving, I haven’t looked at whether it’s frozen there or not because of the snow. Towards the end of winter, I’ll take a look and tell you here... (postscript for March - everything is also OK). For those who have only one drainage hole in the floor of the bathhouse for draining water, it would not hurt to drill a couple more drain holes in those compartments where water flows intensely when washing - this way there will definitely be no stagnation of water under the slats. Another nuance and if you want a life hack on holes in the floor - the fact is that the standard hole for draining the water is made by the manufacturer in the middle of the bath compartment and if for a wash room this is logical, then for a steam room, especially if you don’t use the guy for washing, this hole should be moved right under the oven door! Why? I will answer. The fact is that when firing a stove, the fire constantly requires a supply of oxygen for combustion, and when the firebox is at its peak, the flow of air into the stove is very large, and in winter this air, as you know, is cold... and here our goal is to reduce the distance that cold air from the street passes from the hole in the floor to the furnace vent, so that on the way to the furnace it does not cool the floor on which we walk.

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Another
nuance with the floors.
When the stove is fired, the fire, like in a fireplace, reflects heat from the transparent door, thereby heating the floors of the steam room. As soon as the stove stops burning brightly across the floor due to the fact that there is a hole for drainage, ventilation, and simply cold air accumulates below, you can feel the cool air in cold weather... While you are steaming and waving a broom due to the air circulation, this is not noticeable, but if just standing on the canopy, the cold is felt; it’s better to warm up with your feet on the canopy, at this level it’s always warm. In general, the behavior of the bathhouse is the same as in other seasons, well, maybe it takes a little longer (20 - 30 minutes) to heat and cool faster . Otherwise there are no big differences. The barrel sauna in winter, as well as in other seasons, copes with its functions 100%. By the way, next to the bathhouse we have an ordinary frame pool, which is used as a font until serious frosts - it turned out that it spends the winter well filled with water and we are in no hurry to drain it even when it is covered with a layer of ice overnight... We break the ice crust down to a couple or three centimeters and from the steam room into the water. In order to take a bath in the middle of nowhere, they actually ordered a bathhouse, but that’s another article.

the snow from the roof of the bathhouse barrel even during heavy snowfalls and when it got wet in the spring - it rolls off on its own. Over the course of several winters, the bathhouse building didn’t seem to work.

Here's another review on the topic with video. barrel sauna reviews from owners

Types (table)

Barrel sauna layout option

Name	Description
Ordinary Russian bath	Features hot and humid steam. You can steam in it with brooms. Usually consists of 2 rooms: a steam room and a washing room. After sitting in the steam room for a while and sweating, you can go wash in the shower. In this design option, it is imperative to consider a water drainage system. To prevent it from stagnating, the barrel sauna is placed at a slight slope. The stove in it is installed between two rooms. It is equipped with a tank for heating water. This tank should go into the shower. In the steam room there is a net with stones on which water is poured. They are heated by the firebox. The combustion part of the furnace is located in the washing room. It is better to fence it off so as not to get burned during bath procedures. There is not much space in such a ben, so the stove should be as small as possible. The walls near the stove are insulated with fireproof material.
Sauna	It differs in that the air in it is dry. It may consist of one room. Often this design is equipped with a font into which cold water is poured. If there is little space, sometimes a bucket is used for dousing with water. It is considered a tradition to plunge into cold water after a sauna. It's easier to set up than the previous one. The room must be airtight: the doors close tightly, there are no gaps in the floor or walls. The sauna has only a small hole in the roof or wall with a special valve that can be closed partially or completely. Water is not used in the sauna, so there is no need for a drain. It has comfortable benches and a stove with a heating stove. You cannot pour water on the stones in the sauna. You can add a few drops of essential oil or tincture of medicinal herbs. Thus, therapeutic and preventive aromatherapy is created. The sauna can be installed both vertically and horizontally.
Ofuro	Similar to Japanese sento. Visually it resembles a font. Heated by a built-in stove. It has no roof, but it is used all year round. They place it on a wooden floor. The inside is equipped with a wooden bench and a stove, which is fenced with a wooden partition so that no one gets burned during bath procedures. According to Japanese wisdom, the ofura bath unites all four elements: earth, fire, water and air. The earth is the wood from which it is made, the fire is the stove. And the creation of complete harmony occurs thanks to the water and air surrounding a person in this bath. In it he relaxes and becomes healthier. Visually it may resemble a simple barrel or be elongated. The stove does not have to be installed inside the structure. Sometimes they place it next to it and run pipes from it that heat the water inside. This is a safer option. True, heating requires much more time, and, consequently, fuel consumption increases. Usually they spend 10–20 minutes in it, and then the steamed body must be wiped with a hard mitten.

Barrel sauna: features and advantages. Instructions for building a barrel sauna with your own hands

Barrel sauna: features and its advantages
What's inside the barrel sauna?
How to make a barrel with your own hands? Procedure
Stage 1. Selecting a location
Stage 2. Selection of materials
Stage 3. Preparing the base
Stage 4. Preparation of partitions
Stage 5. Preparing the walls
Stage 6. Screed
Stage 7. Installation of windows and doors
Stage 8. Insulation
Stage 9. Preparing the roof
Stage 10. Interior decoration of the barrel bath

The barrel bathhouse is an original structure, which is a full-fledged bathhouse, but at the same time has compact dimensions and an unusual appearance.

How to insulate a bathhouse from the outside

To insulate a bathhouse from the outside, two technologies are used: “wet facade” and “ventilated facade”. In the first case, the thermal insulation is slabs of polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene or basalt wool. First, they are glued to the wall with foam, additionally secured with plastic dowels and umbrellas, and decorative plaster is applied on top. In the second case, a lathing is attached to the wall of the bathhouse. The cells are filled with mineral wool or basalt slabs, covered with windproof film, and a counter-lattish is filled onto which the facing material is attached. A gap remains between the film and the lining, forming a ventilated space.

Barrel sauna: features and its advantages

The barrel bath got its name due to its unusual shape: in fact, it looks like a barrel turned on its side. This unusual design has a number of advantages:

aesthetic appearance. This bathhouse cannot be called ordinary; it looks original and unusual. Rounded shapes soothe and set the mood for relaxation. Such a bath will decorate any area;
fast warm-up. Thanks to its streamlined shape and small size, even in winter, the steam room warms up in just half an hour;
efficiency. To operate such a bathhouse you need very little electricity and firewood, its fuel consumption is more than 20% lower than in a regular bathhouse;
mobility. The barrel is easy to transport. If you bought a new country house or plot, you can easily transport it to the right place;
no need to install a foundation. The bathhouse has special fastenings, so it does not require floor preparation;
compactness. The bathhouse occupies an average of 8-10 square meters, so it is perfect even for a small area;
easy installation. There is no need to hire a specialist, you just need to choose a place where to place the bathhouse. Installation will only take a few hours. Another advantage is that after installation there will be no construction waste left;
variety of configurations. Do you think that a barrel sauna is just a steam room? You can find options with a shower, a dressing room, a porch, a relaxation room and even a swimming pool. It is possible to manufacture a bathhouse with different types of stoves: wood-burning, electric;
ease of care. The bathhouse has a smaller area, it does not have hard-to-reach corners, so it is easy to keep it clean.

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Installing a barrel sauna is a fairly simple matter. Watch the installation process in this video:

How to organize water drainage

Such a need exists for a design in which a lot of water will be used.

Lattice floor in a barrel sauna

Of course, if the bathhouse is used infrequently, then it is enough to make holes in the floor through which the liquid will flow out and go into the soil. But if you plan to use the structure frequently, then the water drainage system needs to be thought out in more detail. Otherwise, the water may stagnate under the bathhouse, which will have a bad effect on the bathhouse. The first sign will be the appearance of an unpleasant odor. This means that a fungus has appeared under the knowledge and it begins to rot. After this, the floor begins to deteriorate, become unreliable and, ultimately, may collapse.

To build proper water drainage, the barrel sauna is placed at a slight slope. This way the water will drain towards the end of the sink. There you need to make a hole in the floor and attach a pipe to it that will go into the drainage hole. To prevent this pipe from cracking due to temperature changes in winter, it must be insulated.

Inside the bathhouse itself, a floor is made in the form of a lattice. This is necessary not only to make walking more comfortable. Thus, water will not linger on the surface and the floor will dry out on all sides.

Bath-Bochka care instructions.

When delivering the bath, the client is provided with detailed instructions for using the equipment supplied in the kit. Accordingly, before the initial start-up of the bathhouse, you need to familiarize yourself with the document and the recommendations proposed in it. They will not only extend the service life of the barrel bath, but also guarantee the necessary level of safety for people.
In cases where the bathhouse is delivered to the customer in a fully assembled version, including connecting electrical equipment, the supplied light bulbs are placed in the furnace firebox for safety. You will need to screw them into the lamps yourself when the installation of the bathhouse is completed at the installation site.
After the installation work is completed, it is necessary to carry out the first heating of the furnace without loading stones into it. The firebox doors must remain open so that all combustion products of the protective compounds used at the manufacturer's plant for processing the metal after the manufacture of the furnace are ventilated from the inside. The recommended calcination time is more than three hours.

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Basic rules for operating a barrel bath:

The ends of the wood are most susceptible to cracking, so they need to be protected with specialized compounds for the ends or conventional impregnation for external wall surfaces, but with triple treatment.
Every year, a minimum of one-time treatment of all internal surfaces with antifungal compounds is required to simultaneously eliminate the appearance of woodworms.
External treatment of the bathhouse with antiseptic compounds is carried out as needed, but the frequency of protective work performed should be at least once every two calendar years.
Wood processing work should be carried out only in warm weather, at outside temperatures of +10 degrees.
When working with the stove, only dry firewood prepared from non-coniferous wood is used.
In operating condition, the oven door must be tightly closed, preventing the penetration of sparks that could cause a fire.
Twice a year, or perhaps more often, the chimney should be cleaned and checked for metal integrity.
In the steam room, it is necessary to avoid contact with the stove or water tank to prevent thermal burns to the skin of the body.
When using the bathhouse, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of water getting on the glass of the firebox, doors and lamps, which can lead to their cracking.
Children in the bathhouse must always be accompanied by adults, and they are not allowed to light the stove on their own.
Each use of the bath should be followed by subsequent drying to avoid the formation of fungal deposits.
The bathhouse must be kept clean, with the mandatory removal of all detergents.
During the operation of the bathhouse, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of moisture penetration into the gaps of the wood profiles.
The drying process is carried out at temperatures of about 70 degrees until moisture is completely eliminated, with the obligatory closing of the entrance door and windows, but free air exchange between the interior spaces.

Controlling the degree of tightening of the hoops is also important . Before transporting the bathhouse, it is necessary to tighten the hoops. In the autumn-winter period and rainy spring, the hoops are constantly tightened, while in the summer it is possible for them to sag, which is not a structural defect, but is associated with the loss of internal moisture in the wood. Subject to additional tightening in the summer, it is possible that they will have to be loosened in the fall, when the tree begins to gain moisture again.

Tank operation.

The supplied tank is made of stainless steel with increased heat resistance and sufficient thickness of the sheet used. Its operation should be based on the manufacturer's recommendations. Structurally, the tank is equipped with a fitting, which, by rotating the body, allows water to be directed along the entire circumference of the stove. Before starting to light the stove, it is necessary to ensure that there is at least two-thirds of the water in the container. If there is a lack of water, the tank may burn out and become damaged. Upon completion of bath procedures, the water should be drained, regardless of the season and street temperatures. It is also recommended to wash the tank two or three times annually, cleaning the walls from the inside of various deposits.

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Oven operation. The stove is used based on the manufacturer's instructions. The model is equipped with draft control capabilities to optimize combustion. Control is carried out through the ash pan, the door of which is located below the firebox door. Under the influence of excessive draft, a significant increase in combustion temperature is possible with the metal glowing red-hot. This mode of operation negatively affects the service life of the product.

When igniting the stove, the optimal position for the ash pan is to open it to a quarter of its length. Next, the ash pan is closed. In the future, it is regulated as necessary to maintain the optimal temperature inside.

Okta cedar barrel sauna - the main differences and advantages

The Okta cedar barrel sauna was a fresh solution in the sauna fashion. The designers managed to make the dreams of tall clients come true. Leaving the soft lines of the round bath, they significantly increased the internal volume. At the same time, the barrel sauna heats up just as quickly and evenly.

The Octa can be compared to the latest car model. The same rounded shapes and increased comfort. Compared to traditional barrel saunas, this is a very good compromise option.

Let's look at the pros and cons of an oval bath (after all, nothing is perfect, right?)

Advantages of the Okta barrel sauna

Volume. It is not inferior to the volume of a square bath. In the steam room you can make a two-level canopy and move the stove towards the door
Heating rate. Thanks to rounded corners, the air heats up evenly and quickly
Round shape. As if according to Feng Shui - no sharp edges and no reasons for a quarrel!
Comfort. The increased volume allows even a two-meter athlete to comfortably fit
Steam room design.

Now you decide where to place the wood stove. In a round bath such options are impossible

Appearance. The oval bathhouse looks very impressive both outside and inside!
Compactness. Despite the increased volume, a platform 3 meters wide will be enough for you. The length of the platform depends on the length of your bath
Lightweight drain. The oval bathhouse has a specially made floor with a bevel towards the center to facilitate drainage of water.
You are standing on the ladder, the bevel does not bother you
Cons of the Okta barrel sauna
1. Price. Compared to a round barrel sauna, Okta will cost more. The price will be the same as a similar square one . But there is an excuse. The diameter of the Okta sauna is 2.20 m, and the standard diameter of a round barrel sauna is 2.10 m.
We compared the Okta barrel sauna with similar square and round barrel saunas. We didn't find any more cons. But there is one point you need to know:
You can do this yourself or order from us. We insulate the inside of barrel baths with a layer of foil insulation (8 mm) and cedar lining (16 mm). The cost of insulation depends on the size and model of the barrel bath.
Okta barrel sauna models
standard (without canopy and veranda, with end entrance),
with a visor,
with veranda,
with a canopy and veranda,
with side entrance Exclusive.

See what the Okta barrel sauna with a visor looks like:

The bathhouse is made from solid profiled cedar boards 130 mm wide and 45 mm thick. The length of the board depends on the length of the bath. Maximum length 6 meters. The bathhouse is assembled using cooperage technology, using the tongue-and-groove method. You can be sure that there will be no cracks or joints in your barrel sauna. This ensures that there are no drafts.

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The Okta barrel sauna model with a side entrance (Exclusive) has gained great popularity among our customers. It is a little more expensive than a regular bath, but this is compensated by a two-level canopy in the steam room and a large relaxation room with a table. In addition, it looks great in the garden:

You can read more about the Okta Exclusive barrel sauna with a side entrance here - Okta Exclusive

Wood for a bath

There are many offers on the market - baths are made from larch, pine, spruce... We make all our barrel baths exclusively from cedar. You already know why we choose cedar. In short:

Firstly, cedar is a healing tree that helps to heal the body. We care about your health.
Secondly, cedar, unlike pine, is very dense. It doesn't rot. This means that with proper care, your barrel sauna will serve you for decades. We value our reputation and choose reliability.
Thirdly, the thermal conductivity of cedar is the lowest of all the woods found in our latitudes, i.e. baths and saunas made of cedar retain heat for a long time and do not cool down. You can steam in a cedar bath in winter

How to care for the Okta barrel sauna

Caring for Okta is the same as for a regular barrel sauna:

It is necessary to cover the outside of the bathhouse once every two years with a protective composition with an antiseptic that contains wax (we use Pinotex),
At least twice a year, treat the internal surfaces with any special product for saunas (it is sold in stores),
Check and adjust the tension hoops regularly,
Ventilate and dry the barrel sauna well (open the firebox door, window and internal doors),
Periodically adjust the entrance and interior doors,
Do not light the oven when the water tank is empty. It must be at least 2/3 full. Do not leave water in the tank after using the sauna.

Read more about the operation of a barrel sauna here.

Do-it-yourself barrel sauna

The Okta barrel sauna can be ordered either in finished (assembled) form or as a kit for assembly. The standard kit includes everything - the bathhouse itself in disassembled form, and all the shelves, ladders, windows, and a wood-burning stove, and a chimney, and a hot water tank. But you, if you wish, can exclude any components from the assembly kit. The price will be recalculated.

A kit for assembling a bathhouse is cheaper than a ready-made turnkey barrel bathhouse, by 8-10 thousand rubles (depending on the size of the bathhouse). Step-by-step assembly instructions are included with the kit. If you have any questions, you can call our specialist at any time, he is always in touch.

Delivery of a barrel bath

Delivery of the barrel bath in finished (assembled) form throughout Russia and Kazakhstan is carried out by the transport company INTERCOM. Payment of delivery costs is carried out upon receipt of the barrel bath. Delivery within Novosibirsk is free. It is also possible to pick up the bathhouse from a warehouse in Novosibirsk.

Delivery of a disassembled bathhouse is carried out by a transport company (INTERCOM, PEC, Energy, KIT, Business Lines, etc.) - our manager calculates several delivery options and offers the most optimal one for you. Delivery within Novosibirsk is also free. If you wish, you can pick up the assembly kit for pick-up from our warehouse in Novosibirsk.

Know-how in Russia or how to make a barrel sauna with your own hands

A barrel sauna can decorate any area.
Barrel saunas came to us from the Finns; this interesting design resembles a large barrel in appearance. Moreover, in Russia it is used not only as a stationary structure, but also as a mobile device. They put the bathhouse on wheels and take it with them on trailers to the lakes, for fishing and hunting, and in the summer for a vacation to the river. The structures are made by specialists and the price for them starts from 250,000 rubles. But a barrel sauna can be assembled quickly with your own hands and the work is not complicated and understandable even for beginners. We will help you reduce costs and tell you how to assemble the structure step by step.

Pros and cons of a barrel sauna

The barrel sauna is loved in Russia for several undeniable advantages:

Mobility. The weight of the finished bathhouse is no more than 1500 kg, since it is completely assembled from larch trees, so it can be easily installed on a trailer to a car. For comparison, the weight of a brick oven is more than 2 tons.
Fast installation. Building a barrel sauna is faster than any other structure. The model is simple and small in size.
There is no need for a massive foundation, which significantly reduces costs.
Small size. The structure can be placed in the smallest area.
Economical. The design is cheaper than the cheapest frame structure, although its capacity is suitable for a company of 4 people.
Fast fire. You can warm up the bath to 85–90°C in 20–30 minutes.
There is no need to do external and internal design and finishing. The design itself is unusual and attractive. And finishing can only spoil the appearance. The absence of corners makes the bathhouse relaxing and conducive to relaxation.

The ergonomic design due to the multi-layer structure, like a thermos, makes the bathhouse economical in terms of fuel and electricity consumption. According to experts, a rectangular structure with an area of 8–12 m² and a barrel in the same sauna saves energy by 28%.

The negative reviews are mainly related to the high price of the finished structure. But if you assemble it yourself, it will be economical. The main thing is to take into account all the design features and internal layout.

The bathhouse is shown in more detail in the video:

Distinctive features of the Russian and Finnish barrel baths

Sectional view of a barrel sauna, view of the internal layout.

According to the peculiarities of the internal design of the bathhouse, barrels are divided into Finnish and Russian. The designs came to Russia at the end of 1990, and have been in use in Finland for a long time. A Finnish sauna is an ordinary log house, only round in shape, made of coniferous wood.

A steam generator stove is installed inside, which can easily be moved from one place to another. The device runs on two types of fuel: wood and electricity. Building a Finnish structure is simple; there is no need for a foundation or installation of walls. It is enough to choose a place, lay two beams, place a barrel on them and supply water.

In Russia, they took the design more seriously and use it not only as a mobile, but also as a stationary building in small areas.

The barrel sauna is interesting not only from the outside, but also from the inside.

Internal structure of a barrel bath

Installation of a barrel bath - assembly of walls.

The inside of the barrel sauna differs little from any other small one. The internal space is divided into zones: steam room, dressing room, shower room. All elements, including furniture, shelves, windows and doors are made of wood. The base is assembled from larch, oak or pine. If space allows, then a small shower room is located inside; in a smaller building, a washing room and a steam room are combined.

It is convenient to place a shower corner right in the dressing room, so the steam room will be drier. The water is heated from a small heat exchanger; water is supplied by connecting a pump or a general water supply system.

Choose a small stove. If the bathhouse is mobile, then choose a wood-burning one; for a stationary one, an electric one is suitable, but the steam will be dry, which is not suitable for lovers of a Russian bathhouse. There is no need to make a foundation for it; it is enough to sheathe the installation site with sheets of iron. The chimney is made directly into the wall from a small-diameter sandwich pipe.

How to assemble a sauna barrel

You can quickly assemble a barrel sauna, since its elements have a tongue and groove. Thanks to the locking connection, the structure can be assembled and disassembled several times. The interlocking connections are made on a milling machine, so when assembling with your own hands, you buy ready-made boards. Construction is carried out in stages:

Planning.
Assembly.
Interior design.

Bathhouse planning

Photo diagram of a barrel sauna in section, top view.

Despite its small size, the structure is assembled according to the plan. One of these can be seen in the photo for this article. The diagram shows a side view and a sectional view from several angles. Having a plan, you can easily calculate the material. The number of boards depends on the size of the bath. Standard length is from 2 to 6 m. There may be additional structural elements: veranda, terrace, various other extensions. They are not made in mobile structures.

Wall installation

Iron rings are used to fasten the boards together. They can be made independently from iron sheets or purchased ready-made at hardware stores. They are made independently as follows:

Strips are cut from a sheet of iron. Hoops are made from them by welding.

They connect the boards like Legos and fasten them with hoops. The two rear walls are also assembled from boards with a locking joint. They have a round shape of the same diameter.

The assembly is shown in more detail in the video:

Interior arrangement

Barrel sauna diagram, outside view, dimensions.

The floors in the bathhouses are laid at an angle towards the drain. A hole is made in the floor where a waste water pipe is inserted. If the bathhouse is stationary, then a septic tank is installed nearby; for a mobile one, just a pipe is left. The steam room is fenced off with an inner wall of larger diameter, compared to the two rear ones. In a large structure there can be two partitions, then the doors are made in the side wall.

Typically, windows are placed on the rear walls, with a window on one and an entrance door on the other.

shelves are placed on two sides, the stove is installed in the middle, as shown in the photo on the right. All wooden elements and shelves are treated with protective compounds.

The walls are waterproofed outside and inside using natural, first-pressed linseed oil. You can use antiseptics for baths and saunas, for example, Tikkurila Thermo, Sauna.

Steam room insulation

It is better to additionally insulate the steam room of the bathhouse with insulation.

The steam room must be insulated from the inside with foil thermal material. It is mounted using a construction stapler directly on the walls. From above, everything is covered with imitation timber or a block house. The result should be a three-layer cake consisting of: outer board, insulation, sheathing. For mobile structures, such insulation is rarely used.

Roof installation

The roof is made from soft rolled material of the simplest form: gable or single-pitch. Soft tiles look beautiful on a sauna barrel, but in order to save money, you can use roofing felt. The main thing is that the bathhouse is reliably protected from external climatic disasters, the roof slopes are not too steep, and the ridge is not high. The gables are hemmed with wooden clapboard or imitation timber. In a stationary structure, it is necessary to install a drainage system. This way the walls will be more reliably protected from melt water.

The external decoration of the bathhouse is usually not done in barrels. But if you use vintage carved elements on the roof gables, around windows and doors, and place a cockerel on the ridge, then the barrel will sparkle with special colors. If there is a porch, it is also decorated in accordance with the general style. Next to such a barrel there is a table with carved benches and a large wood-burning samovar. It is stylish to decorate a bathhouse, and the fact that all the work was done with your own hands makes it also a source of pride.

Ventilated facade method

If the bathhouse is built using frame technology or the walls are made of timber or logs, the outside can only be insulated by installing a ventilated façade. For thermal insulation it is better to use basalt slabs. Rolled mineral wool sags over time, slides, and does not hold well between the sheathing elements.

Insulation from the outside begins with preparing the walls. First, they caulk the cracks and crevices between the crowns. The wood is treated with a protective impregnation. Rotten areas must be replaced. A vapor barrier is attached to the prepared wooden wall of the bathhouse.

The location of the sheathing elements is drawn using the vapor barrier material. Along the marked lines, brackets in the form of U-shaped perforated plates are attached to the walls. Pieces of roofing felt are placed under each element. The lathing is assembled from a galvanized profile or wooden blocks. The elements are fixed to perforated brackets with self-tapping screws.

When the sheathing is ready, they begin to insulate the walls of the bathhouse. Basalt wool is placed between the vertical elements. The slabs must fit tightly without gaps. The top of the insulation is covered with wind protection. The film is fixed with a stapler to the sheathing elements.

To create a ventilated space under the cladding, slats are nailed onto the vertical elements of the sheathing on top of the windbreak, forming a counter-lattice. The cladding is attached from any panels you like. To insulate the outside of a bathhouse, the Block House, which imitates a log house, is most often chosen.