A cedar barrel sauna for a summer residence is inexpensive and tasteful!


The original appearance of the barrel bath arouses genuine interest in its internal structure. If everything is clear with a traditional log house, then even a large barrel is a rather cramped room. Its zoning depends on the total length of the barrel. Since the bath room has a specific purpose, it is subject to special requirements for ventilation and fire safety. At the same time, the main piece of furniture is the stove, so its choice should be taken with due attention.

Which bathhouse should you choose for your dacha?

In order to make the right choice, you need to decide on the parameters of the bath and know what conditions it must meet. As a rule, there is not a huge area of ​​unoccupied land in the garden that can be used for the construction of a bathhouse. Therefore, it is important that the bath:

  1. It was compact and didn’t take up much space (beds are important too!)
  2. It was fully functional (the main thing is the steam room, we add everything else as needed)
  3. It was mobile (in case of selling a dacha or moving, it would be desirable to be able to move it to another place)
  4. Didn’t take up a lot of time (we don’t need long construction), warmed up quickly
  5. Was inexpensive and economical to use
  6. Was easy to maintain
  7. Can be ordered assembled or disassembled

Barrel baths satisfy all these conditions. They do not require a special foundation for installation, can be delivered assembled or disassembled, at a price lower than stationary analogues (made of the same type of wood) and are great for installation in a country house, near a cottage or in a garden. If installing a high-quality log house according to a standard project will take you at least 1-2 months, then you will install a barrel sauna in a few hours.

See photos of the most popular barrel sauna models in 2018:

Cedar barrel sauna model Round MINI with veranda, total length 2.5 meters


Okta Exclusive barrel sauna, length 6 meters with side entrance


Round barrel sauna with canopy, total length 4.5 meters

Types and models

To date, a large number of types and models of barrel baths have been developed. Main types:

  • Round (circle in section)
  • Square (the corners are slightly beveled, due to this the bathhouse warms up faster compared to its stationary counterparts)
  • Okta (between square and round. In cross-section, it is a “plump” square with rounded corners and convex sides).
  • Oval (everything is clear here, the section is oval)

The most popular lately are the Okta barrel saunas, because... they have a larger volume compared to square baths at the same price. The photo below shows the inside of the Okta barrel sauna:

More complete information about this model can be found on the Okta Barrel Bath page - an overview of the pros and cons

You can buy a round bathhouse, the Standard model, inexpensively for a summer house or garden plot (below you will see what it looks like) - with the same configuration, it uses less material, so it is cheaper.

Types of models

Each of the presented types is divided into models. The main models of barrel saunas, depending on the design features:

  • Standard (without canopy and veranda),
  • With a visor
  • With a veranda (verandas can be open or closed),
  • With canopy and veranda at the same time


Barrel sauna Round Standard, length 3 meters


Round barrel sauna with veranda, length 5 meters


Barrel sauna with an open veranda

Baths also differ in the type of entrance. Depending on the location of the front door, barrel baths are:

  • with end entry
  • with side entrance

6-meter barrel baths with a side entrance are called Exclusive. Those. you can order a square or Octa Exclusive - it will be clear that this is a 6-meter sauna with a side entrance.

As a rule, large baths 5-6 meters long are ordered with a side entrance. The entrance can be through the rest room or through the washing department.

Mobile barrel sauna

A separate type is a mobile sauna (or a barrel sauna on a trailer). Any model of bathhouse from 2 to 4 meters long can be installed on the trailer. With such a bathhouse you can go not only to the dacha, but also to fishing, hunting, friendly gatherings on the river bank, around the fire...

In exceptional cases, a mobile 5-meter sauna is ordered; it requires a trailer with a larger carrying capacity.

Mobile barrel sauna with canopy, bathhouse length 5 meters.
All information on this type of sauna can be found on the page Mobile barrel sauna on a trailer

Parameters and equipment

When choosing a barrel sauna for a summer residence, we are interested in the following parameters:

  • Bath length
  • Number of compartments (this is related to the length. It is impossible to make several compartments in a 2-meter sauna, otherwise you will have to steam while standing)
  • Diameter (width-height)
  • Weight (you will need this parameter when you order a manipulator in order to remove the bathhouse from the truck using slings and install it on your site)

The length of the bath can vary from 2 meters (the smallest) to 6 meters. Step 50 cm. 6 meters is the maximum length of the product, because This is the maximum length of the profile board. It is not recommended to make a barrel sauna in a composite manner, otherwise there is a possibility that there may be cracks in the joints, which may allow penetration through them. Such a bath cools down faster and has a shorter service life. Make barrel baths only from a single length of board! Below you will see a video of the material preparation and assembly process.

The standard diameter of round and square barrel baths is 2100 mm. If desired, its diameter can be increased to 2200 mm and 2300 mm. Of course, it is possible to make a product with a larger diameter, but then your bathhouse in its finished (assembled) form will not fit into the truck for subsequent transportation.

If you need to order a bathhouse of a larger diameter, delivery in disassembled form (as a kit for self-assembly) is possible. The standard diameter of the Okta barrel bath is 2200 mm.

The weight of the bath depends on its size (length) and model.

Stage 3 - frame assembly


Frame assembly

Next you should lay the embedded boards on the prepared base. All elements are connected using the tongue and groove method.

Boards pre-cut to the required size are laid on the bottom. Fasten them along the required circumference until it is sufficient to install the end partitions. The boards must be nailed to the base or screwed.

Once this height has been reached, install the end partitions in the desired places and continue assembling the structure, securing the boards around the partitions. Each board must be nailed or screwed to the end of the partition.

To simplify the task of installing partitions on the inside of the embedded boards where the partitions will be installed, you need to cut grooves whose width is equal to the width of the partition. Then installing it will be much easier and faster.


The barrel is tightened with clamps

After you have laid the last board, you need to ensure the rigidity of the structure. To do this, the barrel is tightly tied with iron hoops. To connect the ends of the hoop, use iron clamps. After a long period of use, when the wood dries out a little, the clamps need to be tightened so that the gaps are minimal.

Weight of a round bath, model Standard

Length, m233,544,555,566 Exclusive
Weight, kg80010001100130014001500170019002000

The table shows approximate data on the weight of a round barrel bath, Standard model, depending on the length.

  • If you have a round barrel sauna model with a veranda, add 200 kg to the table values
  • For Round model with visor add 100 kg
  • For the Round model with a canopy and veranda, add 300 kg to the weight of the bathhouse indicated in the table

Stage 4 - interior work


Interior decoration of the bath

It's time to start decorating the interior of your bathhouse. There is no less work here, since we still need to make the floor, shelves, install a drain, prepare a place for the stove, etc. But now everything is in order.

  1. The first step is to knock down the shelves and install them inside. It is recommended to assemble them from aspen or linden.
  2. After that, start installing the floor, which will also be made of wood. The floor should be laid at a slight angle towards the drain, then the water will not linger. To ensure air circulation, the floor can be made in the form of a wooden grid, so that the distance between the boards is at least 1 cm. Then your feet will not freeze and will be dry, since all the water will drain freely.
  3. Take care of the water drainage system. Where to take it is up to you. If the site already has a sewerage system, you need to organize the flow of water through pipes into the sewer system and install a siphon so that during bathing procedures you do not inhale an unpleasant odor. Another option is to dig a drainage hole where the water will flow.
  4. If you want to equip the bathhouse with electrical wiring, this must be done at the assembly stage. In this case, ordinary wires will not work. You need to purchase a special wire in non-flammable insulation and lamps that are designed for saunas.
  5. When you plan to steam only in the summer, you don’t need to insulate it. But if you have a great desire to steam all year round, the bathhouse needs to be insulated with rolled material. Additionally, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier layer and finish the room.
  6. Don't forget to install doors and windows in the right places.
  7. The most important element of the interior is the stove - the key element. You need to choose which stove to buy - an electric stone stove or a small wood-burning stove. Here you can choose from your own preferences. The stove must be installed in the last section where there will be a steam room. It is important to protect the place where it will stand. The walls, floor and ceiling near the stove should be lined with fire-resistant material such as tiles or a metal screen. If your stove is wood-burning, you need to make a place in the ceiling for a chimney.

Now your bathhouse is almost ready. In general, you can already exploit it. To protect against precipitation, all that remains is to make a roof.

Weight of the barrel sauna Square and Okta, model Standard

Length, m233,544,555,566 Exclusive
Weight, kg100013001450160017501900205022002200

The table shows approximate data on the weight of the barrel bath, Standard model, depending on the length.

  • If you have a barrel bath model with a veranda, add 200 kg to the table values
  • For model with visor add 100 kg
  • For a model with a canopy and veranda, add 300 kg to the weight of the bathhouse indicated in the table

Selection of materials

Taking into account difficult operating conditions, such as regular heating and cooling, humidity, and the influence of the external environment, only the highest quality and durable building materials should be used for the construction of a barrel bath.

Maximum attention should be paid to wood. The cylindrical body of the steam room is entirely made up of boards - edged, located one above the other with a slight overlap, or tongue-and-groove, which are fastened using a tongue-and-groove system. The most suitable species for this purpose are oak, aspen, Siberian larch, linden, cedar and spruce.

It is extremely important that the wood is well-dried, smooth and clean, without cracks, knots, wormholes or darkening. When heated, coniferous boards can exude resinous glue and form unsightly smudges in places where dark brown spots are found. Even before construction begins, the wood should be treated with an antiseptic, oily impregnation against moisture and a fire retardant.

The recommended parameters for profile boards for cladding are width 9 cm, thickness 4–4.5 cm. For edged lumber used for partitions, the optimal width is 20 cm and thickness 5 cm.

The semicircular roof in the barrel bath is laid with flexible bitumen tiles. Its color can be any - according to the preferences of the owners.

As for the metal components of the steam room, they all must be stainless. Experienced craftsmen recommend using exclusively light-colored screws during installation, and making the hoops from steel tape with increased corrosion protection.

Installation of a barrel sauna

Installation does not require a special foundation; you can simply prepare a flat area. The barrel sauna is installed on support legs. This is, as a rule, a beam 100mm thick and 1800mm long.


The number of supports depends on the length of the barrel bath and is installed under each partition in the bath. Additional support is provided if the bathhouse has a veranda.

Stage 2 – assembly of end partitions


Assembly of end partitions

Now you need to assemble the end partitions. Their height and circumference depend on your plan. Connect the prepared boards by pressing them close to each other on a flat surface. To hold them together, use cross beams. Secure each board with screws to the cross beam. Also don't forget about openings. After all, partitions must have doors and windows in the right places. Therefore, when securing the cross beams, make sure that they do not interfere with the installation of window and door units. Once the required number of partitions have been assembled, you can proceed to the next step.

What kind of wood is suitable for a bathhouse?

Not every wood is suitable for building a bathhouse or house. For comparison, let's consider the most popular species of coniferous trees - pine, cedar and larch. Visually they are similar to each other and seem to be no different. However, there are differences in the characteristics important for construction.

  • Siberian larch is one of the most valuable wood species for construction. The wood is impregnated with resin, which has antiseptic properties. The main disadvantage of larch is its high thermal conductivity (larch baths will be 25-30% cooler than those made from pine and 45% cooler than those made from cedar) and a fairly high price. It is recommended to use this type of wood in the construction of baths - for logs, floors and the initial three crowns of walls. It is preferable to make the rest from cedar or pine.
  • Cedar is the most healing tree of its fellows. Its resins are medicinal. The wood is dense and does not rot. Sauna barrels made of cedar have their unsurpassed advantage - a special aroma, light air and healthy steam that is beneficial for the body. In addition, cedar has the lowest thermal conductivity of all available options, i.e. the walls of the bathhouse will retain heat longer and you will be able to steam in a cedar bathhouse even in winter.
  • Pine is easy to process and is considered a good building material. In terms of resistance and durability, it is inferior to larch and cedar. Pine is affordable and quite durable, but its thermal conductivity is too high for baths. Pine baths will cool down quickly; you won’t be able to take a steam bath in them in winter, even in light frost. In addition, pine must be treated with special antiseptic compounds, because it is susceptible to rotting. This is due to the fact that the upper layers of pine are softer; they are able to absorb moisture and, because of this, are most susceptible to blueing and rotting of the fabric.

More detailed information on the properties and characteristics of wood can be found on the page Why cedar is the best wood for a bathhouse. There you will also find a thermal conductivity table so you can compare the data yourself and choose the best option for your construction. Thus, we can conclude that the warmest and most durable barrel saunas are made from cedar.

The question is often asked: “What kind of wood and how to choose a bathhouse so that it does not “cry”?”

Those. It is necessary that the wood releases less resin when heated. The place where resin is released is the knots. But you will never find wood that is completely free of knots. Knots are where the branch used to be. There are no trees without branches. But a responsible manufacturer will never make shelves and ladders from boards with a lot of knots. This is exactly what you need to pay attention to, so that, if possible, the number of knots is minimal and there are the fewest of them on the benches, floor and ladders.

In addition, you need to know that pine and spruce emit resin more strongly. If you are building a bathhouse from pine, at least make the shelves and benches from other wood.

Types of wood for a barrel-shaped sauna

The most popular material for constructing a round bathhouse is wood. For these purposes, it is better to use bath tree species: larch, oak, cedar, linden and aspen.

  • Oak buildings are wear-resistant and durable. They are inert to rotting, cracking and deformation. The wood cut has an attractive texture and pleasant aroma. The disadvantages of such wood are the high cost and complexity of pre-processing.
  • Linden buildings are practical and safe. Linden baths have a beneficial effect on the human body, promoting rejuvenation and cleansing. Linden lumber is easy to process and assemble; in addition, it has high heat capacity, but is short-lived and susceptible to rotting.
  • Aspen buildings are affordable and cheap. In terms of its performance characteristics, aspen is not inferior to linden, but at the same time it is resistant to overheating, cracking and deformation.

You should not use coniferous wood to build a bathhouse, which contains a large amount of resins that are released when the lumber is heated.

The exception is cedar lumber, which has a powerful healing effect on the body. The cedar bath is especially useful for people suffering from diseases of the respiratory system.

Important! Coniferous wood (spruce, pine) is suitable for assembling the frame, and hardwood is suitable for interior decoration.

For the manufacture of bath equipment and furniture, cheaper materials are widely used - alder, fir and birch. But they are absolutely unsuitable for building a bathhouse.

Sections in the barrel sauna: steam room, washing room and locker room

Depending on the length of the barrel bath, it can consist of one, two or three compartments.

A two-meter barrel sauna is just a steam room. You can increase its length to 2.5 meters, but the number of compartments will not change. Only the steam room. Two-meter barrel baths are made both standard and with a canopy, and with a veranda, and both together.

Three to four meter barrel baths consist of 2 compartments. Usually this is a steam room and a locker room, but you can make a steam room and a washing area. It all depends on your desire and your preferences.

Starting from 4.5 meters and up to 6 meters, the barrel sauna easily accommodates 3 full-fledged compartments: a steam room, a washing compartment and a locker room. In the Exclusive model and models with a side entrance, instead of a locker room, they make a rest room - with a table at the end wall of the bathhouse.

Steam room

In a standard steam room, a wood-burning stove or electric heater is installed in the center, with curtains on the sides. On the end wall of the bathhouse there is a window measuring 20 cm x 40 cm and a ventilation grill. See photo:


Steam room in a barrel bath with a wood stove. View inside

In all compartments there are cedar ladders on the floor. If you order a prefabricated (finished) bathhouse, then turnkey electrical wiring is already installed, and there are lamps in each compartment.


Steam room in a barrel bath with an electric heater. View inside

You can choose from a wood-burning stove with an external or internal firebox or an electric heater. If you want to have a small home sauna, order an electric heater.

In square baths and in Okta, a two-level shelf is installed in the steam room:


Two-level shelves in the steam room

Washing department

In the washing compartment, as standard, there are two canopies on the sides, on which you can place a tub of cold water or a bowl of hot water. If the size of the compartment is at least 1.2 meters, you can attach a dousing device (hanging tub), photo below:


Spray device in the washing compartment

Some people install a shower, water heater or even a font in the washing compartment:


Cedar font in the wash compartment

There is a drain in the steam room and washing compartment - this is a hole measuring 50 mm. How best to organize a drain under a barrel sauna can be read in the article How to make a drain in a barrel sauna. There it is described in detail with photos and videos.

Locker room or rest room

In barrel baths with a side entrance you can make a rest room; in ordinary baths with an end entrance there is a locker room or dressing room. As is clear from the name, the main purpose of the locker room is to undress and go steam. In between entering the steam room, you can sit and relax; for this purpose, there are benches on both sides of the dressing room. If the length of the compartment allows, you can make a bench on one side, and on the other - a table in the middle and on the sides of the seat.

See photos of the locker room in a round barrel sauna:


Changing room in a round bath

This is what the locker room looks like in the Okta barrel sauna:


Locker room in Okta

Below is a photo of the relaxation room in a square barrel bath Exclusive:


Rest room in a square barrel sauna Exclusive

But they ordered such a relaxation room from us at Okta Exclusive. The table was made folding, and additionally it was possible to arrange the benches as a table or a sun lounger. In such a bathhouse it’s good not only to take a steam bath, but also to sleep!


Lounge room in Okta with a lounger and folding table

All prefabricated baths include turnkey electrical wiring. Lamps are installed in each department, at the entrance there is a machine for external connection to the network and a switch in the dressing room.

Advantages and disadvantages of designs

The first mentions of barrel saunas appeared on our portal back in 2012, but active discussion and exchange of experience began another year later. And these days, in three threads of the topic, a solid layer of first-hand information has been accumulated. Barrel baths are attractive for many reasons.

Aleksandr_96FORUMHOUSE Member

I never thought about building a classic bathhouse (log house) at my dacha, because I didn’t want to deal with a full-fledged construction project - approval of the building, changes in the cadastre, foundation, log house, standing for a year... etc., etc. Moreover My father has such a bathhouse on a neighboring property. In 2021, I accidentally came across a barrel sauna, I think I saw it on the Internet, became interested, and began to look and study. I went to the portal forum, and there were 250 pages of information and experience of people who had already installed a barrel sauna. Thanks to the creators of the site and to you, dear forum users! I read all 300 pages (while I was reading, the forum was still growing) and realized that the barrel sauna suits me in all respects. The design itself is an original form, ease of construction (assembly), ease of placement on the site, price (whatever one may say, cheaper than a log bathhouse), no need for registration, ease of operation. If you have the “correct” stove, you can use the Russian bath mode, and another plus, which probably won’t be useful to me personally, is its mobility – if necessary, moving around the site or beyond.

In terms of the comfort level of the bathhouses, the inside of the barrels is practically not inferior to conventional structures - a height of 2.1 m is quite enough even for people with above average height, and it is not customary to make rooms in bathhouses with high ceilings. Compact sizes are also typical for most average baths, and there is no comparison with luxury complexes in principle.

Another advantage is the already mentioned ergonomics - due to the absence of corners, barrel saunas heat up quickly enough from just a couple of linings. Moreover, the barrels are oriented to the Russian bath regime, with high humidity and medium heating, and usually no one tries to bring them up to 100˚C.

It is not without its drawbacks.

  • Cost - for a mini sauna, a spruce barrel with one steam room in the base, excluding the foundation, you will have to pay about one hundred thousand rubles, which is not an affordable amount for everyone. Yes, a log house or bathhouse made of stone (brick) will be even more expensive, but if you build the frame with your own hands and spend only on materials, then for this amount you can actually get a steam room, a washing room, and a dressing room.
  • Linked to the season - manufacturers position their products as year-round use and, if desired, even in frosty weather, it is quite possible to heat a barrel sauna, and reviews confirm this. Another thing is that at sub-zero temperatures overboard, even with a completely sealed circuit, a homogeneous wall, only 40-45 mm thick (log cross-section is about 300 mm), will not be able to retain heat for a long time. And the consumption of firewood for winter will be an order of magnitude greater, both for heating and for maintaining heat during the process. If you plan to use it all year round and have a washing machine, you should think about an insulated barrel.

Extr1970FORUMHOUSE Member

The length of the barrel bath is 6 m, the diameter is 2.45 m, the steam room is 2.2 m, the wash room is 2 m, the locker room is 1.5 m. The inside of the barrel is insulated with 5 mm foil insulation (like penofol), then lathing and cedar lining. The shelves are also cedar, the floor is larch. A 60 liter hot water tank hangs in the washing room on a partition, it is connected to the register on the stove pipe by a 32 mm pipe, the route is long, so I installed a circulation pump in the system, everything works well. Bach HV 90 liters is also in the washing room, screwed to the floor. I plan to raise one shelf in the steam room by 40 centimeters - lying down to steam is a bit low.

I was looking for a barrel sauna with insulation and finishing - just 40 mm boards in severe frost will cause large heat losses, the washing room will dry out quickly in the first place. I wanted to get a full bath service in a barrel - a locker room, a washing room, a steam room, and I immediately thought about insulation. But in a pure steam room you could do without it, especially with a powerful stove. The company is in Moscow, but production is in Chelyabinsk. The barrel was not cheap, but I don’t regret the money - I like it, and the design is unusual.

Negative reviews about the inconvenience of barrel baths are associated not with the parameters of the design itself, but with inflated expectations - naturally, washing in a steam room is not entirely convenient; it is logical that four people cannot sit comfortably in two squares. But these are not hidden shortcomings, which there is no way to know in advance, but the specifics of mobile baths.

Preparing a profiled board for assembling a barrel bath

The quality of the bath itself largely depends on the quality of the material. Even the most wonderful craftsmen will not be able to make a good bathhouse from poorly processed, undried boards. When choosing a material or a finished barrel bath, be sure to pay attention to this.

The board must be processed on a special four-sided machine and the wood must be brought to a certain optimal degree of wood moisture content of 8-12%. Watch a video about how to properly prepare wood for further manufacturing of a barrel sauna:

The tongue-and-groove board processing technology allows you to assemble a bathhouse without gaps and cracks, due to which heat is retained as well as possible.

This drawing clearly shows with what technology it is possible to process boards in this way, and how such a board profile is obtained:

What do the owners say?

The positive emotions of those who bought a barrel sauna, as they say, “flow over the edge.” An original appearance, a beautiful interior, a pleasant aroma of wood, a hot steam room and the pleasure of bathing procedures are the main advantages of such a purchase.

However, as often happens with wooden structures, after 2-3 years, reviews from owners contain complaints about the boards drying out and cracks appearing. Additional tightening of the hoops does not always eliminate them. The reason for this lies in poor quality preparation of lumber before processing. A poorly dried board will shrink beyond the permissible limit.

Another typical problem is rotting of boards in the area of ​​sewer drain holes. It occurs due to a violation of wood antiseptic technology. You can avoid these unpleasant moments. To do this, before purchasing, you need to pay attention not only to the manufacturers’ price tags. It is much more important to communicate with the real owners of their products. The information received from them will be objective and unbiased.

Those who want to use a bathhouse all year round are often concerned about the suitability of such a building in winter. The way out of this situation is additional internal insulation. However, reviews from some owners indicate that a well-built bathhouse copes well with its tasks in winter even without insulation.

Coating inside and outside

The inner surface of the barrel sauna is covered with natural wax or special oils for wood. This allows it not to lose its qualities for a long time and last longer. It is recommended to treat the inner surface after 30 times of use, but at least 2 times a year.

External treatment of the barrel bath is carried out as needed, but at least once every 2 years. For this purpose, protective antiseptic agents are used, which contain wax. All work is carried out at an ambient temperature not lower than +5 degrees C.

The color of the outer covering can be varied, for example: mountain ash, Oregon, walnut oak:

The color of soft tiles can also be chosen to suit your taste - brown, green, red.

Doors in barrel baths

In standard models of a round barrel bath, the intersection doors are made of wood, in square and Okta models - of heat-resistant glass. You can also make the doors between the compartments half made of wood with glass inserts.

The front door has either a padlock or a mortise lock. Some install a metal entrance door with anti-corrosion coating:

Which stove should I install?

A wood-burning stove with an internal or external firebox, or an electric heater, is usually installed in a barrel bath. It all depends on your preferences and capabilities. When choosing a stove, you should take into account the fact that electricity is constantly becoming more expensive, and in cold weather it is quite difficult and time-consuming to heat a sauna with an electric heater. If your region has frosty winters, and you plan to steam in both summer and winter, choose a wood stove.

Many people prefer a wood-burning stove with a firebox on the outside, because no matter how careful you are, you will have to clean out the ash from the firebox and you will inevitably end up with a mess.

The following brands of wood-burning stoves have proven themselves well: Rus 9, HARVIA M2 and GRILL'D Aurora 160. Their characteristics are well suited for heating this particular volume of barrel baths and are relatively inexpensive.

Characteristics of the wood-burning stove GRILL'D Aurora 160

1Power16 kW
2Estimated volume of heated room6-16 m3
3Dimensions (D x W x H)615 x 460 x 782 mm
4Weight44 kg
5Mass of stones for laying58 kg
6Chimney diameter115 mm
7Heat exchangerNo
8Doorsteel with glass
9Kamenkaopen
10Framecasing-convector
11Firebox materialstructural steel

A chimney with a 50-liter hot water tank is installed on the wood-burning stove. The tank has a tap for draining water. In half an hour, the steam room warms up to +90 degrees Celsius, while the water in the tank heats up to +70 degrees.

The oven is installed on a heat-resistant stainless steel screen. A thermal screen is also provided on the wall side to protect it from overheating.

The chimney is usually brought out through the roof, but in some cases it is also made through the side wall. More detailed information on barrel sauna stoves and step-by-step instructions for assembling a chimney can be found in the article.

Foundation or platform?

In order to install a barrel sauna on your site, you do not need a special foundation. It is enough to prepare a well-leveled area. How to prepare it is up to you. Some fill it with crushed stone, others line it with paving slabs, others decide to put the bathhouse on small concrete piles, or even make a real podium for their bathhouse complex, see photo:

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