How to sheathe frame walls of a bathhouse from the inside

Not every summer cottage has a bathhouse. Many land owners are scared by the high price of this building, although you can build a steam room yourself. Read about what a do-it-yourself frame bath is and what costs it will require!

Construction of a frame bathhouse 3x4, 4x4, 3x3: advantages of self-construction with video

A self-built frame mini bath has a number of advantages:

• Affordable price, since materials are cheap, and construction plans and drawings can be found on the Internet. • A frame bathhouse can be erected with your own hands in the shortest possible time. • The design does not shrink, communications are easy to lay. • A variety of interior and exterior finishing options to suit any budget.

Manufacturing and installation of wall frames

Initial data: there is a columnar foundation with a wooden grillage.
Boards (150x25 mm) are laid on top of the grillage, playing the role of a subfloor (later they will be dismantled). The bathhouse frame will be installed on a columnar foundation with a grillage.

The frame of the walls is made of boards 150x50 mm. The walls were assembled on the ground and then fixed on a grillage. Each wall frame is made up of vertical posts (11 pieces on the longitudinal walls, 8 pieces on the end walls), horizontal frames, crossbars and jibs (2 pieces per wall, running at 45° from the corner to the middle posts). To install the jibs (flat) in the racks, cuts were made.

The finished wall frames were installed on a grillage and leveled. A second top frame is nailed to each wall along the top, and jute is laid between the solid beams. The jibs were cut into the racks and finally nailed down. The upper double frames of the walls are fastened together.

Bathhouse wall frame installed on a grillage

Construction of a bathhouse: first stage - foundation with video

A panel bathhouse of any size begins with laying the foundation; we will tell you about the foundation for a one-story building. You will need:

1. Asbestos-cement pipes 4 m long, 100 mm in diameter.

2. Drilling wells according to pipe sizes. The diameter of the well is about 200 mm and the depth is 1.5 m.

3. The purchased pipes are inserted into the well; they can be secured with sand.

4. After laying, the pipes are cut to the mark, and then prepared cement mortar made according to the classic recipe is poured into them: water, crushed stone, concrete, sand.

After laying the foundation, piping is performed, which will require:

1. Board with a section of 50x100 mm.

2. Antiseptic, which is used to treat the boards 12 hours before the start of construction.

After preliminary preparation, the future walls must be marked, then the boards are laid along the outer contour.

Advice! Lay the boards with the outer edge, securing the joints with nails. Check the evenness of the filling with a level; if unevenness is detected, it is corrected by laying a layer of construction roofing felt.

Next, intermediate racks are installed, taking into account further cladding and installation of the heat-insulating layer. It is recommended to secure the logs and axles with metal plates, previously walled up.

The resulting piping is again treated with special solutions, which will further protect the bathhouse from rotting.

Video

Bathhouse interior options: photos of various rooms

Design of a steam room in a bathhouse: several photo examples

The steam room is the heart of the sauna. It should be light and cozy

At the same time, appearance is of great importance. For example, if you decorate the inside of a steam room with coniferous wood (pine or spruce), then after several washes the walls will darken and acquire a gray, unsightly tint. Moreover, regardless of what protective compounds they were treated with. We invite you to look at the photo of the interior decoration of the steam room. Perhaps they will give the reader some thoughts:

Interior of a washroom in a bathhouse: finishing features

A washing room in a bathhouse is a room whose walls are constantly exposed to splashes or even jets of water, which means you need to take care in choosing a material taking this nuance into account. If we are talking about wood, then larch or linden is used - these varieties are best suited for such operating conditions. However, the best option would be to finish the floor and walls with tiles.

The best photos of the interior decoration of the bath: shower room or cabin

Today, home craftsmen prefer shower cabins, which is not surprising. They can be installed in a washing room, their installation is simple, and such devices will not take up much space. The finishing is done in the style of a washroom or is not required at all if the shower cabin was purchased in a store, factory-made. Below you can see what a shower room might look like in a bathhouse interior:

Relaxation room in the bathhouse - interior design of the required premises

Such rooms are designed to allow you to take a break from the hot steam. The temperature in them is maintained cool, which is facilitated by the good thermal insulation of the steam room and the location between it and the dressing room of the washing room.

Decorating a relaxation room involves the use of various materials - strict requirements, as in the decoration of a steam room or washing room, are not imposed on them, but the aesthetic appearance is even more important here. Darker tones are used. The ideal wood for finishing a dressing room would be bog oak.

And a few more photos of the interiors of the bathhouse and relaxation room:

Looking at these photos of the interior design of bathhouses with rest rooms, it’s hard to believe that the finishing was done by craftsmen without any experience or education as a designer, but this is a fact.

Let's sum it up

Building a panel bathhouse with your own hands allows you to save up to 60% of the amount that you would pay to the builders and project developer. If, when ordering from a construction company, a budget version of a panel bath will cost 150 thousand rubles, then independent construction will cost 60-75 thousand rubles. We wish you successful construction, inviting you to view a photo report of the construction of frame baths using our advice!

Beautiful examples

There are many interesting ideas for decorating baths, many of which can be used as inspiration for renovation or construction.

The first example is a classic bathhouse with wooden walls, floors and even a ceiling. All this is made of logs, covered only with a protective layer of varnish. Only in such a steam room can you truly relax. She looks traditional, and that is where her main charm lies. The bathhouse is divided into two main parts - a place to relax and the steam room itself. Both of them are made in the same style and decorated with brooms made of dry herbs. This decor not only looks beautiful, but also fills the room with incredible aromas. Moreover, this kind of decoration is quite inexpensive, because you can collect herbs for brooms yourself in the summer.

As for the functional content of the rooms, everything is simple. The steam room contains everything you need for proper relaxation and bathing. The dressing room can become a place for intimate gatherings with friends. There is a large table and chairs with comfortable backs. It can accommodate a traditional Russian samovar, delicious food and a little alcohol to lift your spirits.

The relaxation area in the bathhouse can be made not only in the traditional Russian style. The next example is a luxurious large room, stylized as an expensive classic. The finishing materials used here include wood, slab, and stone. Despite the fact that there are a lot of them, they all organically combine with each other.

The room is decorated in cozy brown and gray tones. Wooden walls and ceilings are combined with cozy brown armchairs, and a neat stone wall is combined with tiled floors. Since the recreation room is quite large, it can be divided into several zones at once. The main one is intended for gatherings with friends. There are chairs and several tables. The rest of the space is freer and can be used as you wish.

Decorative details deserve special attention. It is they, along with thoughtful decoration, that create an atmosphere of luxury in this room. Decorative details include paintings on the walls, forged lamps, and soft pillows.

The last room option is a steam room, decorated in a modern style. Everything here is very simple and minimalistic. The decoration of the entire room is made of light wood, as is the fence for the small stove filled with stones. It is convenient, stylish and safe. Only one of the walls is decorated with stone. It is located behind the stove, which increases its safety. Decorative details in the steam room would be superfluous, so there is only what is needed for a good rest.

Building a bathhouse and finishing all its surfaces is a responsible task. After all, not only the appearance of the room, but also how healthy the atmosphere in the rooms will depend on the choice of materials. Therefore, it is worth taking into account all the information provided about different types of finishing, and then the bathhouse will turn out exactly the way you want it to be, and it will really be pleasant to relax in it and spend free time in the company of loved ones.

For details on the intricacies of finishing a bath, watch the following video.

Lighting and electrical

An important stage in finishing a bath is wiring electricity and installing lamps. What is important to know here:

It is forbidden to sew electrical wiring under the lining. A bathhouse is an object of increased fire safety, so aesthetics are aesthetics, but safety comes first. We use corrugation for cables and wires, it looks pretty neat:

Regarding lamps, don’t skimp on sauna lighting. Using canopy lighting and decorative lamps in the corners of the room, you can create a charming atmosphere. We started doing this quite recently, but the result is so good that we definitely recommend it to every client.

This is the kind of illumination we get (be careful, the video is “buzzing”):

Materials for thermal protection of frame baths

When choosing insulation for a frame bath, it is necessary to take into account not only the thermal insulation characteristics of a particular material, but also its ability to withstand significant temperatures at a constant high level of humidity.

In addition, the insulation for a sauna building, when heating the room, should not emit toxic compounds that negatively affect the health of people receiving the procedures.

In order to improve the thermal insulation parameters, insulation of a frame bath, such as in the photo, can be done using the following materials:

Mineral wool. Its slabs consist of thin fibers, which are obtained by melting rocks or waste from metallurgical enterprises. In the process of weaving a large number of these fibers, air is retained between them, due to which the products have excellent thermal insulation qualities. As a result of the peculiarities of mineral wool production, the material can withstand very intense heating while its performance characteristics do not change. Such slabs retain heat-saving properties in conditions of high humidity and do not collapse.
Reed slabs. They are natural and environmentally friendly heat insulators. Their thickness is 15 centimeters and this parameter is very convenient when building frame structures.
Insulation made of sawdust-gypsum mixture. To make it, you need to mix 10 parts of dried small sawdust with 1 part of cement (gypsum). Insulating a frame bathhouse from the inside using this mixture has a significant advantage - affordable cost and excellent thermal insulation (read: “How and with what to insulate a bathhouse inside - tips from a master”).
Foamed synthetic products - polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, etc. They have a number of advantages, including low price, immunity to moisture, ease of installation, low weight, and low thermal conductivity. But these synthetic insulation materials cannot be installed on elements of a bathhouse building, where exposure to high temperatures is possible, so they are used to insulate walls located away from the stove. They are placed in the dressing room, rest areas or washing area.

Tips for choosing material

The frame should be assembled from the following parts:

bars;
slats for creating sheathing;
boards for the floor base.

Instead of plank flooring, the floor base can be covered with tiles. You need to choose based on personal preferences, however, in the case of a steam room, it is recommended to give preference to wood. There will also be materials for protection. Quite often, lining is used for wall cladding.

It is recommended to cover a frame bath with wooden clapboard

To cover the structure from the outside, you can use larch lining. The inside of the building is clad with clapboard made of coniferous trees. Sheathing boards must be mounted vertically.

Excess moisture and elevated temperatures will negatively affect structural elements, so it will not be possible to do without the use of special protective materials. You can use glassine, polyethylene or roofing felt. A vapor barrier should be placed between the insulation and the sheathing. The disadvantage of roofing felt is that during the heating process it will emit an unpleasant odor. Therefore, it is not recommended to use it.

You need to pay attention to the selection of material for thermal insulation. If you choose wisely and install the insulation correctly, it will be possible to significantly reduce heat losses, as well as the cost of heating a bathhouse building.

Mineral wool is used as insulation in most cases.

A good insulation material for a frame bath is mineral wool.

A good option is to use fiberglass. In some cases, the ceiling is insulated with expanded polystyrene, and the floor base with expanded clay.

Thermal insulation of the wall next to the stove

For the wall frame and insulation located close to the sauna stove, it is necessary to create additional protection to prevent the influence of high temperatures on them. Some experts consider the best choice when solving this problem to be the use of asbestos sheets and slabs.

But since there is an opinion that asbestos is harmful to human health, it is advisable to choose more modern options, including needle-punched mats, isolon, basalt fabrics and others. All of the listed materials can withstand temperatures of several hundred degrees and therefore are able to ensure absolute fire safety.

Fireproof protection is installed in one of two ways:

decorative trim on top;
directly onto the vapor barrier layer.

conclusions

It’s quite simple to build a 5x5 frame bathhouse on your site. A light columnar foundation is chosen as the base. The walls are made of beams and OSB panels. It is important to properly waterproof the grillage and roof elements. This will extend the life of the building. Based on ready-made projects, you can create your own drawing of a frame bathhouse that meets safety and cost-effectiveness requirements.

What is the purpose of foil?

To achieve effective energy saving in a bathhouse, you will need to not only insulate it, but also use reflective material in the form of a special foil film. Masters claim that it helps return up to 95% of the heat into the room.

The result is that fuel for the stove is saved and the duration of the fire is reduced.

For baths, aluminum foil with a thickness of 30–300 microns is used. It is used in combination with other insulation or is already fixed as its top layer.

Therefore, before covering, they first attach insulating material to the walls and ceiling, thanks to which the heat does not escape beyond the bathhouse. An insulated steam room heats up faster and retains heat longer.

The following are the advantages of foil:

It acts as a vapor barrier and blocks the access of moisture to the insulation. The generated steam remains on the walls of the steam room.
Its service life exceeds 50 years. Wooden elements will begin to rot faster than the foil layer will deteriorate.
Excellent sound insulation. Foil can absorb up to 70% of all sounds and noise.
Fireproof raw materials. Does not burn. It will become an obstacle to the spread of fire.
Bathrooms warm up faster and take longer to cool down.
If you fix the insulation with a foil layer, then the foil will prevent it from falling off.

Among the disadvantages, the following should be noted:

When there is a difference in temperature outside and indoors, condensation appears on the surface of the material. It is important to leave a gap for ventilation before covering. If this is not done, the resulting condensate will begin to be absorbed into the sheathing, which will lead to rotting of the lining. Foil has poor throughput

As users say, she is not breathing. Therefore, the rooms must have good ventilation, both forced and natural (windows, doors). Aluminum particles accumulate in the lungs, causing various respiratory diseases. But if you use the sauna periodically, the risk of harm to health is minimal.

Arrangement of the roof of the building

For such a small structure as a bathhouse, you can build a gable roof. It is safer to assemble all roof elements on an open plot of land. The rafter system is made of timber with a section of 150x50 mm. To avoid mistakes, it is better to make a preliminary layout and then repeat the assembly of the rafters.

For the roof frame, you need to nail the two rafters together at the top end. The bottom of the rafters must be placed on support points and secured. Use a crossbar (crossbar) to connect the legs of the rafters using screws.

When the frame is ready, you can begin installing it. First fix the front structural elements. Use a construction cord as a guide, stretching it between the pieces. It should run along the line of the roof ridge. The remaining elements must be mounted at its level

The distance between the rafters can be selected individually; usually 1.2 m is used. Between the rafters, the location of the chimney must be taken into account. Use a plumb line to check the level of each element being installed. If there are deviations from the vertical, level the position by placing a piece of board under the rafter leg.

Now start lathing. If you plan to use soft roofing material, for example, ondulin, for example, then the sheathing pitch should not exceed 10 mm.

You can insulate the roof with the same materials that were used to insulate the walls. Next, the roof is covered with roofing. The final step will be to install a galvanized corner on the roof ridge.

Basic finishing methods

The construction of a bathhouse frame is permissible from wood, aerated concrete and foam blocks, and brick. If building standards are observed, the building will be functional. The choice of material depends on the personal considerations of the developer. In central Russia, preference is given to wood in 50% of cases. A log or beam. Another 25% falls on frame structures, the basis of which is also wood. The last quarter remains for other materials.

The interior decoration of a bathhouse built from logs, using frame technology or bricks and blocks, does not depend on the material of the box

It is important that it meets the specific requirements imposed by the functionality of the building. The most stressful conditions are in the steam room, where the humidity reaches 70% and the temperature reaches 90°C.

For the washing room and dressing room, a humidity of 40% at a temperature of 30 - 35°C and low humidity at 20 - 25°C are recommended, respectively. The given numerical values are indicative and justified from a medical point of view. In life, differences happen. When it comes to steam rooms, the rule of thumb is: higher the temperature, lower the humidity.

Bathhouse construction stage four: roof

The roof of the panel bath is erected as follows:

1. 15x15 cm beams are laid on the top frame. The distance between the beams should be about 50 cm.

2. Temporary flooring is mounted on the ceiling beam; the thickness of the boards is 50 mm.

3. Next comes the installation of rafters for a low ridge. If the ridge is high, then the rafters are mounted from below or special scaffolding is used.

4. The last step is the installation of roofing material.

Advice! A frame bath requires a ventilated attic, and to build it, the sheathing is mounted on top of the rafters. If the roof is soft, then the sheathing is solid. When the roofing material is metal tiles, the sheathing pitch is 35 cm, and with slate it is 65 cm.

Kinds

Before starting finishing work, it is important to decide what types of products to cover certain rooms of the bathhouse. The generalized characteristics of all types of lining are as follows:

Breathable structure. Thanks to this property, fungus and mold rarely form on the lining, and proper ventilation is ensured.
Ecological cleanliness. This material is completely safe for humans.
Tongue-and-groove fastenings. At the dawn of the development of lining production, the fastenings were “tongue and groove”. Today, these options are not used, as they quickly fail.

To cover the inside of the bathhouse, you can use lining made from various types of wood. Uniform conditions for the material - it must be resistant to humidity, frequent and sudden temperature changes. When choosing a material, you must rely on the basic criteria of the wood species.

Wood species for lining can be as follows:

conifers;
deciduous.

When choosing a material, you need to understand for which bathhouse rooms it can be used. The most popular types of bath lining are made from:

cedar;
alders;
oak;
ash;
linden;
pine trees

Linden lining is considered the most suitable for cladding the walls of a steam room. The structure of the material is porous, low density, wood does not heat up from high temperatures. Linden has medicinal properties, releasing essential particles when heated. They are useful for the prevention of many diseases.

Linden wood is characterized by soft shades that do not change color throughout its entire service life. The only drawback of linden is its porosity - the material absorbs moisture. The room must be well ventilated.

Aspen lining has a more dense structure compared to linden. Despite its hardness, the material is easy to process. The surface of the material does not allow steam to penetrate and does not absorb moisture. Under the influence of temperature differences, it only becomes stronger.

Wells were previously built from aspen. The water in them remained clean for many years. Many craftsmen advise choosing aspen lining for a bathhouse.

Alder lining has good thermal conductivity and excellent water resistance. The material is not subject to deformation at almost any temperature. The color of the alder lining is a pleasant golden-orange.

The characteristics of the material make it possible to cladding both dry and wet bath rooms. No additional processing is required for alder lining. Alder acts on the human body as a general strengthening agent.

Cedar lining is considered an ideal option for lining a bath space. The products are quite expensive, so they are rarely used for lining baths. Cedar wood is durable and resistant to moisture. Another positive quality is the respectability of her appearance.

The medicinal qualities of cedar are known for its bactericidal properties, as well as its ability to make the air cleaner. The material does not change its original parameters for a long time. The pleasant aroma of cedar needles remains in the bathhouse rooms.

Another option for the base for lining is larch. Its installation is difficult, since the board is fragile and splits during processing. Larch is resistant to moisture. After some time, the finish acquires the required strength, but still requires additional processing. Otherwise, the material will lose its natural shade.

Larch is a conifer, but it does not emit resin, so it is suitable for finishing steam rooms. It can be used for walls, ceilings, and floors. The material is universal, it can be used both inside and outside the bath. The medicinal qualities of the material are the same as those of other conifers.

Pine lining is often used to decorate the inside of bathhouses. The price of the material is affordable, but it cannot be used in all rooms. For example, in a steam room, resin will be released from it, which will cause burns on the skin if it comes into contact with it.

However, in bathhouse rooms with normal temperatures, pine lining will create a special microclimate. In rooms with normal humidity, upholstered with clapboard, the aromas of the forest will be present. The appearance of the material will last a long time. Deformation processes may occur due to some hygroscopicity of the material.

Oak lining is famous for its strength and high density of wood. Oak is a beautiful and rich material. Oak finishing saturates the premises with essential aromas that suppress pathogenic microorganisms. Oak has high resistance to moisture and temperature changes. Oak is suitable for any bath room. The lining made from it varies greatly in color.

The main advantages of frame technology

Advantages of frame buildings:

the design is simple and it is possible to design and build it yourself;
the building does not shrink and finishing work and installation of equipment begin immediately after the main construction;
construction proceeds quickly, without restrictions on the time of year;
the lightness of the design makes it possible to install any type of foundation;
Any materials for cladding are suitable. Everything depends on material capabilities;
environmental friendliness of the building;
economic benefit in comparison with stone and brick buildings.

To perform the work, it is not necessary to involve heavy equipment and a whole team of workers. Simple construction tools and a maximum of one assistant will do.

Lining a wooden bathhouse with clapboard inside: is it necessary?

The first reaction of those who learn about the owner’s decision to line the inside of a wooden bathhouse with clapboard is, of course, surprise - was it worth spending money on expensive wood if you then cover it, like in a cinder block bathhouse, with clapboard?

But here, as in the story with the Roman and his shoes - “who of you knows where they are too tight for me?” Therefore, we will proceed from the fact that, without any particular reason, the owner of a wooden bathhouse will not hide its advantages under a layer of lining.

What reason could force him to do this? First of all, the thickness of the log house or timber is insufficient. If the calculation was wrong, then it’s time to dig, or not to dig – it will still be cold. And if so, then you need to insulate yourself. When you have insulated, you need to think about finishing, and the most common one is lining.

It also happens that you want to make a thermos in a steam room - cover it with foil. And if you do this, then the foil goes into the bathhouse under the lining. Insulation may or may not be done, the main thing is to separate the foil from other materials by air space - this is both a ventilation gap and a condition for the heat-reflecting screen to work, because metal conducts heat very well, while air conducts heat very poorly.

That is, in order to sheathe the inside of a bathhouse with foil and clapboard, you need to make a lath (on top of the insulation or directly on the wall), fasten the foil to the lathing, fill the slats again, now with counter-lattens, and install the clapboard on it.

Log house inside

Of course, before you start covering the log house, you should caulk it thoroughly or otherwise eliminate all heat leakage points.

After this, the issue of additional insulation is resolved. If it is necessary, then a complete thermal insulation “pie” is installed; if not, then it is enough to do as described above: make a lath, foil, counter-lattice in the steam room and sheathe the inside of the bathhouse frame with clapboard.

Painting work

Attention, we strongly do not recommend using paints and varnishes when finishing the steam room. When heated, many of them emit toxic gases. We do not paint our baths from the inside. But we can advise you to use water-based varnishes, SUPI water acrylic impregnations from Tikkurila, the DULUX line for saunas, and domestic SENEZH.

You will say that an uncoated floor in a bathhouse will quickly become unusable. This will not happen if you strictly follow the operating instructions - thoroughly ventilate and dry wet areas.

Bathroom wall decoration

For finishing the walls of the steam room, the choice of materials is not large; the use of wood-based materials, linoleum and other chemical products is unacceptable here.

The walls of the steam room are sheathed with natural wood, clapboard, tongue-and-groove boards made from the following types of trees:

Cedar. Moisture-resistant, able to withstand high temperatures and temperature changes, cedar is most preferable for the walls of a steam room; when heated, its wood releases substances that are healing for the human body and pleasant aromas of the taiga. The boards are gentle to the touch, it’s nice to lean your back against a cedar wall. A steam room trimmed with cedar should be heated strongly for the first time and the heat should be maintained for 40–45 minutes so that the cedar weeps out the resin.
Abashi is a foreigner in our market, but is popular despite its high cost. The advantage of abasha is its ultra-low thermal conductivity, the wood practically does not heat up, plus its pleasant appearance, tactility, interesting texture and color.
Linden. A healing tree, the wood is resistant to high temperatures, does not lose its original color and appearance for 20–25 years, a real godsend for a steam room, essential linden oils heal the bronchi and treat colds. Linden has a beautiful pastel shade that decorates and slightly romanticizes the steam room space;
Larch is the most frequent guest of steam rooms, washrooms and rest rooms. Walls finished with larch are not afraid of moisture; the ephedra is well protected from swelling by resinous bags and the structure of the fibers. Wood has a varied color palette, natural shine and beauty of design. Walls finished with larch also require initial heating to maximum temperatures for 40–45 minutes in order for the resin to release. The material is inexpensive and is considered popular.
Aspen. Unfortunately, it is difficult to find on the construction market; it is not cheap, but the high cost is justified. Wood does not rot, protects log walls, repels insects and has a healing effect on the human body. She literally cures migraines and joint diseases.

Important! The use of varnishes or paints in the steam room is strictly not recommended - fumes when heated can cause poisoning. The walls of the washing room can be tiled or lined with lining of softwood

For tiling walls, you can use moisture-resistant plasterboard, OSB boards, and moisture-resistant plywood.

The walls of the washing room can be tiled or lined with lining of softwood. For tiling walls, you can use moisture-resistant plasterboard, OSB boards, and moisture-resistant plywood.

Tiles for a washing room are especially relevant in a brick building; they do not collapse under the influence of moisture, are easy to maintain, and last a long time.

Important! It is better to use glazed tiles, which are more durable. A matte, rough surface is preferable to prevent slipping, and the reverse side, smooth without porosity, will prevent fungus from occurring.

Whatever type of finishing is used in the washing room, it is worth putting rubber mats or wooden grates on the floor.

The walls in the rest room should be finished depending on how well it is protected from the penetration of steam and moisture. But for a log bathhouse you can’t think of anything better than sanded logs, however, it’s a matter of taste. Even decorative plaster of any kind, including Venetian, is suitable for brick walls. And yet, the stylistic features of the room play an important role in the decoration of the space, where you can relax after a pleasant procedure, sit by the samovar with friends, having a heart-to-heart conversation.

Decorative finishing of the walls is carried out after installing a layer of insulation and foil material. Tefopol, for example, perfectly seals the room, its use is permissible in the washing room and rest room, foil penofol simultaneously serves as a vapor barrier, a heat reflector, and insulation.

The need for a vapor barrier layer for a brick bathhouse is obvious, especially if the premises do not have forced ventilation. Walls must breathe. It is better to use membrane films and not save money by purchasing simple polyethylene.

Step-by-step technology

When all the materials have been purchased, and the tools have been collected in a pile and humbly waiting in the wings, it’s time to move on to practical actions. And it’s worth starting with the project. You should build a frame bath only after you have decided on the layout . If you want to arrange, for example, a bathhouse with a veranda and a barbecue under one roof, then reflect this desire in your working design.

What size plot do you have?
Do you want to separate the steam room and sink?
Are you ready to sacrifice a rest room for the sake of extra meters in the dressing room and vestibule?

Find the answers to all these questions - and then it will be easier for you to decide on the design of your frame bathhouse. In addition, the Internet is now full of ready-made projects and drawings . All that remains is to adjust the scale and take the tools into your own hands. However, do not forget that you are based on the size of the area at your disposal. And it goes without saying that for complete comfort you should take care of a certain usable area around the building. And in case of frequent use of the bathhouse during the winter season, you should even ask about the veranda .

Work on the foundation

we drive pegs around the perimeter of the proposed frame bath and make a ditch approximately 0.6 meters deep, the width can be determined in each individual case, but not less than 0.4 meters;
fill the vacated space with sand to approximately 1/3 of the entire depth and fill it with water on top, after which we compact it thoroughly;
we fill in the prepared gravel, and on top - a layer of sand, which is then leveled with soil using a building level;
we make formwork from reinforcement and fill everything with concrete;
The final touch is insulation with roofing felt; a thin layer of it is enough.

Leave your foundation for at least a week - during this period it will settle well and “gain strength”.

Walling

dry the lumber prepared for the construction of the walls of the frame bath; it is best to choose linden or aspen, since these species have an excellent ability to retain heat;
after erecting the wooden frame, treat the inside of the boards used with any antiseptic, and the outside with varnish, and it is advisable to use at least 2 layers of it;
make a harness from timber and fix it from below;
secure the beams in each corner with regular nails and support them with metal posts so that they do not disturb their balance;
fill the base posts with concrete;
mount intermediate support posts; the same material that you use for the basic structure is suitable for them;
decorate the floor by laying out timber, give preference to a section of 0.15 meters.

Erection of the roof

select eight ceiling beams cut at a certain angle;
align the outer rafters, and then fasten a few more directly in the center;
arrange the remaining ones through the ridge, fixing them to the capital structure from different sides;
the next step is to install vertical posts to improve the strength of the base;
if the frame bathhouse you make with your own hands has an attic, then think about an exit for it in advance;
those rafters that protrude beyond the edges are sequentially processed - we cut out the beams with our own hands, and then we nail the boards and fix the battens.

We insulate the walls, floor, ceiling

one of the best options is mineral wool, but roofing felt should be abandoned, since during operation it can release harmful substances into the air and cause a nasty odor;
we place roll-type insulation between the vertical posts, and then secure it with slats;
We have already protected the floor from moisture with timber, and now we use expanded clay - it is cheap and retains heat well;
To insulate the ceiling with your own hands, you can use polystyrene foam, but you should protect it with a vapor barrier film - this way you will avoid an unpleasant odor and can extend the life of your frame bathhouse.

We design windows and doors

If your project includes openings for windows and doors, now is the time to fill them. Don't forget that both windows and doors must be securely sealed. During breaks between using a frame bath, the room should be ventilated as thoroughly as possible.

Interior decoration

The logical final touch is the pleasant interior decoration of the frame bath. Making it yourself will not be difficult. Moreover, the key to comfort is not only a reliable design and high-quality materials. It is also important to carry out competent finishing work so that every person feels as comfortable as possible in the bathhouse and can fully relax. That's why:

the ceiling can be finished with pine upholstery - this not only looks impressive, but also reliably protects the materials from the harmful effects of high temperatures;
the stove is finished with red ceramic brick or its fireclay version - this way the heat will be retained much longer, and the air in the steam room will be more humid and pleasant;
the walls are finished with clapboard - it’s inexpensive, but very practical and, by the way, quite nice. You can use different types of lining, or better yet, its spectacular European version.

Bathhouse like a bathhouse

The simplest decoration of a Russian bath is simply its absence, see fig. More precisely, the absence of a continuous finish: a bathhouse made from wild logs selected to size breathes perfectly on its own thanks primarily to the open ends of the logs - along the fibers the tree absorbs and releases water vapor several times faster than across the layers, but it warms up from thermal radiation and from contact with heated air evenly. Therefore, in the original Russian bathhouse, the required temperature and humidity ratio is naturally maintained over a wide range of heating intensity.

Interiors of log baths

The original Russian bathhouse comes in 3 types - vigorous, made of oak, kondovaya, most often made of pine, and light, linden. The latter is the most useful, but if linden timber appears on sale, it is prohibitively expensive. A complete replacement for it in terms of sanitary and hygienic indicators, but only for 5-7 years, is poplar. Steaming in a vigorous oak bath is not for everyone’s health; It is definitely not recommended for women and children.

A pine bathhouse without interior decoration will be useful and quite fragrant if it is made from ordinary commercial pine-dried chips. Expensive, but extremely resistant to moisture, rot and pests, pitch pine is used for 1-2 lower crowns. However, the pine bath must first be “burnt”, the remaining volatile substances must be expelled from the logs, and the heavy fractions of resins must be forced to bituminize. To do this, in the summer, in dry hot weather, in the new bathhouse, in the morning, open all the doors, entrance and interior, windows, upper vents (see below) wide open and empty all containers, including the waste pit, if it is under the floor. Then the stove is heated to maximum until lunchtime; here for the first time you need an eye and an eye - suddenly there is something wrong in the fireproof cutting of the pipe (also see below). After lunch, the firebox is stopped, the bathhouse is allowed to cool until the next morning, and this procedure is repeated 3-5 times. If the weather turns bad, it’s okay, a break won’t hurt.

Methods for caulking a log house

However, you can use a Russian log bathhouse without additional finishing only if the log house is properly caulked. Since ancient times, baths were caulked with moss, but now the best option is jute. During the construction process, the crowns are caulked in a stretched strip (see figure on the right), and after dry shrinkage of the frame, the cracks are hammered into the set with jute rope (top left photo in the figure above). If the bathhouse is built in compliance with these requirements, the floor in it is also laid as it should be, see below, and properly burnt, only decorative functions remain behind its finishing; you just need to leave more wall surfaces free and not cover the outer and inner ends of the logs.

About finishing the sauna

Finishing a traditional sauna

The northern country of Finland has never been rich in forests suitable for building a bathhouse. The abundant spruce there is not the best option in this case: it is difficult and time-consuming to remove resin from its solid mass. Therefore, the Finns initially assigned the medical and health functions of the bathhouse to its less expensive internal lining: the traditional finishing of the sauna is a plank stand made of seasoned spruce boards, see fig.

Avid Finnish sauna lovers, having steamed in their own and in a real Russian sauna, say: yours is better. Not by much, but it still feels better. However, a sauna is much simpler, cheaper, can be made compact, even in the nook of a city apartment, and even mobile, which is what determined its wide distribution. The design of the sauna is very plastic, therefore, if you want to get a sauna, then when finishing using the methods described below, use seasoned air-dry spruce for the cladding.

Advantages and disadvantages of frame construction

Among the advantages of such a construction:

Minimum assembly time. Carefully thought-out technology allows you to build baths of different sizes very quickly.
Environmental friendliness of raw materials. The main material is wood. There will always be a pleasant aroma of natural wood inside the bathhouse.
There is no need to pour a massive foundation under the building. A columnar base or screw piles (depending on the type of soil) will suffice.
The structure warms up faster, unlike brick or log baths.
Fuel economy. For a good heating of such a bathhouse, you will need 2–3 times less firewood than for a brick one.
Low price for materials.
Possibility of construction at any time and weather.

Among the disadvantages of a frame bath:

For year-round operation, the building will have to be insulated, which will entail additional costs.
External and internal finishing of the structure is required.
The bathhouse needs periodic antiseptic and fire retardant treatment.
There is a high probability of the bathhouse shrinking after 1.5–2 years. Shrinkage can be up to 10 cm. Because of this, deformation of the finish occurs inside and outside.

To prevent significant shrinkage of the structure, it is necessary to use boards and other lumber that have been kiln-dried for construction.

Basic requirements for wood wall coverings

When choosing a lining, you need to consider a number of requirements:

Moisture resistance. The boards must be resistant to moisture, so that premature rotting does not begin, and dry quickly, which also protects them from rot. Smoothness. High-quality lining has a flat, smooth surface. The absence of knots, gaps, and roughness eliminates the risk of mechanical damage to the skin and penetration of excess moisture into the coating. Low thermal conductivity

An important quality, since you can get burned on wood that is too hot. Hygiene. The wood should be easy to clean.

It is better to choose linden for the steam room, since it is easy to clean, has low thermal conductivity, and has beneficial properties. Larch also meets most requirements. Low thermal conductivity, strength, density, positive effect on the body, and moisture resistance make larch stand out among other species.

According to experienced builders, it is better to use African oak (abashi). Low thermal conductivity, strength, lightness, resistance to rotting and deformation, absence of chips, cracks, beautiful wood pattern of abashi make it a bestseller, but there is one drawback - too high cost.

Wood should not be treated with stain, varnish, or other chemicals, since when the air is heated they will release harmful substances.

Selection of lining

Finishing inside the steam room

Since buildings are made of different materials, owners are interested in whether there is any difference in how to decorate a steam room in a bathhouse, say, from brick or foam concrete. In principle, there are no differences even at the level of constructing an insulating pie, and even more so the finishing does not depend on what the walls of your bathhouse are built from.

However, options do exist.

Interior decoration in a bathhouse made of timber or logs

A beam or log is a material that in itself has excellent decorative qualities, so there is no point in hiding it under the skin, unless your area is in the Arctic cold, that is, if the thickness of the log or beam is enough to keep warm.

In this case, the owner’s main concern will be insulating the joints with inter-crown insulation between logs or beams and sealing them (which we will discuss separately). In addition, finishing works include protecting log walls from various misfortunes (fire, water, insects, fungi and bacteria) and revealing the decorative properties of wood - both are done with the help of impregnations.

BUT! In the steam room, protective measures are limited to antiseptic on the lower rims and impregnation for the walls as a whole, which will protect them from water.

A well-sanded log has a beautiful “moire” pattern, which can be made more visible with the help of varnish or impregnation. On our website parilochka.com there is an article that talks about paints and varnishes that are acceptable for processing steam rooms.

Finishing with clapboard in a bathhouse made of aerated concrete, foam concrete, brick, frame

The finishing of a steam room in a bathhouse built from the materials listed in the title will in the vast majority of cases be reduced to clapboard cladding. This is the easiest way to make the interior “wooden”. In addition, lining is a convenient and affordable material, and the difference in profiles gives the owner the freedom to choose according to his tastes.

Baths not built from wood are usually insulated. In this article we will not describe the thermal insulation pie - you can read about it in this article on our website. However, we will spoil it: methods of thermal insulation finishing of a steam room in a bathhouse made of aerated concrete, foam concrete, etc. are the same. And the lining is the final stage of this finishing.

The lining is attached to the counter-lattice. There are several ways to attach it inconspicuously. Previously, this was most often done with finishing nails through a groove, but this is hard work, especially when compared with the modern method of fastening to staples or nails using a pneumatic gun through clamps. As an option, you can attach it to self-tapping screws.

IMPORTANT! Clippers do not replace fastening with nails or staples, they only simplify it. A nice and convenient addition.. Watch the video, which clearly demonstrates the method of fastening the lining using clamps:

Watch the video, which clearly demonstrates the method of fastening the lining using clamps:

Regarding the finishing of the steam room with clapboard, it is worth saying one more thing: there are two mounting options - vertical and horizontal. Accordingly, the counter-lattice should go in a perpendicular direction.

Since we are talking about a humid and hot room, it is worth noting that vertical fastening of the lining is not optimal. Each individual lamella with this arrangement is moistened unevenly, which leads to stress inside the wood. In the future it may crack.

At the same time, horizontal fastening makes the lamellas moisturized more uniformly. The main thing is not to forget when fastening that the groove should be on top, and the tenon should enter it from below. Then water will not flow into the lock.

In addition to the above, the described types of lining installation also have this feature: vertical fastening visually makes the room taller, and horizontal fastening makes the room appear lower.

Floor with drain and ladders

Briefly about the arrangement of the floor in the bathhouse. Floor joists and a subfloor are placed on the timber frame. Next, vapor barrier and expanded clay are laid. It has heat-saving and moisture-absorbing properties. The finishing floor is laid on top.

In rooms where large amounts of water are expected to be used - in a sauna, washing area or shower - the floor is made with a slope and special drain holes. A flexible pipe is connected to them to drain wastewater into the site’s drainage system.

Walkways - well, to make it pleasant to walk in the bathhouse - not slippery, not through puddles. To ensure they last a long time, they must be dried thoroughly after each use.

Ways to fasten the lining

Two types of fasteners are used for installation.

Kleimers

Safe type of installation. Doesn't damage the planks.

Having fixed the bracket on the tenon, it is attached to the sheathing beam. You need to start from the center, then move to the edges, maintaining verticality or horizontality. Claypers are used for laying lining on ceilings and walls. If necessary, it will be possible to dismantle several planks without damaging other elements of the bathhouse design.

Nails or screws

For the self-tapping screws, pre-drill a hole with a diameter slightly smaller than the size. Self-tapping screws are screwed into a tenon or groove at an angle of 45 degrees.

The nails are simply driven into the slats in the right places. To avoid rust on the surface, it is recommended to use copper or galvanized nails. But it is worth considering that they will cost twice as much as usual.

In any case, the cap will be flush with the bar. Places of fasteners are sanded and polished. There should be no burrs or defects left on the surface.

Sewerage

There will be a shower in the bathhouse, and water treatments are planned in the steam room, so installing a sewer system is a necessity. I provided a drainage well as the final collection point for wastewater. I dug a one and a half meter hole with a diameter of about 1.2 meters, compacted the bottom, covered it with sand and small gravel. Then we installed two meter-long reinforced concrete rings into the pit. The joint of the rings was coated with cement mixed with liquid glass.

Trench for water supply. Depth - per bayonet

Pipes led from the washing room and steam room. I ran another pipe from the location of the urinal. Three holes were made in the floor and pipes were inserted into them. The three pipes were connected to each other with a suitable fitting. A common pipe was laid at a slight slope along a dug trench to the well. One pipe was not long enough, so I had to connect two straight sections with a coupling. All joints are silicone. I first added sand to the bottom of the trench, and used it to fill the pipe after installation.

Cesspool with walls made of concrete rings

The well was covered with a round reinforced concrete slab with a hole. I built the neck out of brick, and instead of the lid, I installed a metal hatch for the gas tap. It is small in diameter, but sufficient for inspecting the drainage level in the well and pumping out wastewater with a sewer truck. But there’s no need to go all the way inside, I think so.

Inspection hatch. Instead of a hatch, a hatch for the gas tap was installed. You can check the level and pump it out. There's no need to climb inside

Drains with siphons and filters were installed in the premises. A compact part that is inserted directly into the sewer pipe. When choosing, I preferred a product with a metal grille, guided by considerations of reliability and durability. The grate itself is square with a round hole in the center; when laying the tiles, I didn’t have to spend a lot of time fiddling around with cutting. I installed the drain in parallel with pouring the floor screed and laying the tiles, which I will discuss later.