Over time, baths have not lost their popularity; on the contrary, now one can observe an increase in demand for their construction.
At the same time, bathhouses are built not only from classic wooden materials: logs and timber (as was customary before), but also modern technologies are used: the construction of bathhouses with frame walls and bathhouses made of various blocks (cinder blocks, gas silicate and expanded clay concrete blocks, etc. ).
They are durable, have no problems with rotting, exposure to insects, birds and rodents. The blocks do not burn, therefore they meet high fire safety requirements.
The insulation of block baths deserves a separate article, since this type is fairly new. This gives rise to many controversial issues, so we will try to cover the topic of insulating a bathhouse made of blocks, and in other articles we will talk about the insulation of other parts of bathhouses.
What do you need to know about the general principles of insulating block baths?
Building blocks are good because they retain heat well, are hygroscopic and resistant to temperature changes (this is important for the winter period). The thermal insulation properties of blocks , as a rule, are higher than those of brick or concrete, but in any case they are inferior to those of natural wood.
Baths built from blocks, regardless of their type, require insulation from the inside without fail. This is explained simply - by insulating the bathhouse exclusively from the outside, you will get a structure that will need to be heated for an incredibly long time.
After all, in order for the air inside to heat up, it is necessary to heat all the structures of the bathhouse: walls, ceiling, floor, etc. But in fact, you only need to keep the heat inside while using the bathhouse.
This distinguishes residential buildings from bathhouses (exception: bathhouses that combine their functions with a place for permanent residence). In residential buildings there is a constant source of heat that maintains a permanent positive temperature in the premises, but the bathhouse has a different procedure for use: it is heated 1-3 times a week, and even less often in winter.
It is impossible not to mention such a feature of the blocks as the ability to heat up to high temperatures. And if their surface is not covered, then the risk of getting a burn is quite high at the slightest contact .
Therefore, our recommendation is simple: insulate the baths inside, apply the rules for composing the insulation “pie” and do not forget about ventilation and vapor protection.
What is the best way to decorate a bathhouse inside?
The choice of material type depends on the style direction. A modern manufacturer offers ample opportunities to create a unique interior of a bath complex.
Plastic panels
Washing area finished with plastic panels.
They are produced wide (wall panels) and narrow (lining).
The advantages of this material are as follows:
- Moisture resistance.
- Variety of colors and styles.
- Easy to install.
- Affordable price.
- Durability.
The disadvantages of panels include:
- Poor resistance to surface damage.
- High level of fire hazard.
- Low vapor absorption.
Combined wood and decorative stone finishing.
PVC siding
Siding is not susceptible to fire even when in contact with an open fire.
He is not afraid of accidental damage or scratches with sharp objects. In addition, it is plastic, thanks to this property you can successfully hide uneven walls.
Decorating walls with siding is simple and affordable, it can be easily done with your own hands, and the variety of colors available and the cost of the material will suit the taste and wallet of the most demanding buyer.
We suggest you read How to install an interior door - Lifehacker
Ceramic tile
Finishing the bath with mosaic tiles.
Tiles can be called an ideal material for covering surfaces in damp rooms, such as a sink or steam room.
Its advantages are obvious:
- Moisture resistance. The specially treated surface of the tile does not absorb moisture at all.
- Resistance to elevated temperatures. Modern technologies make it possible to produce heat-resistant tiles that are used to line fireplaces and stoves.
- Strength and durability. Properly laid material will serve for many years without changing its qualities and appearance; it is almost impossible to accidentally break a tile; in the worst case, you can break off a piece.
- Resistance to fire and aggressive chemical environments. The walls can be washed with any household cleaning products, and there is no fear of fire.
- Eco-friendly and hygienic. The tiles are made from natural materials; mold and microorganisms do not form on its surface.
Finishing with a pair of wooden clapboards.
A wide range of sizes, colors, and types of processing allows you to choose a collection for any interior.
Tree
It is generally accepted that the best bathhouse is one made of foam blocks, the walls of which are decorated with wooden slats (lining). And although wood does not have many of the advantages inherent in other materials, consumers still often prefer it.
What qualities of wood attract builders:
- Vapor permeability. In a bathhouse lined with wood, the steam is drier, the air is cleaner, and the walls “breathe.”
- Low thermal conductivity. The well-processed smooth surface of the boards is pleasant to the touch and has an ambient temperature.
- Environmental friendliness. Being in a steam room with walls decorated with natural wood is not only pleasant, but also useful. The essential oils released by wood have a beneficial effect on health.
- The beauty of wood texture.
Steam room covered with clapboard.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtA6Bqae0Qo
Aspen, linden, and alder are used for cladding the steam room. These rocks are resistant to deformation and do not crack due to temperature changes; in addition, they have healing properties that increase when heated. The sink and rest room can be decorated with larch, pine, and cedar.
Installation of a “pie” of insulation from the inside
In addition to the very need to insulate the bathhouse from the inside, it is important to make the right insulation pie.
- lathing on a load-bearing wall;
- insulation;
- vapor protection and waterproofing;
- ventilation gap (can be arranged with a sheathing device, it is required);
- Decoration Materials.
For lathing, you can use wooden blocks or a metal profile. We recommend treating the former with an antiseptic to increase service life, and choosing metal profiles from the galvanized category (not subject to rust).
It is best to use dowels as fasteners: they will make it easier to work with blocks, which have a stronger structure than wood, and will provide a tighter connection. Although, in order to save money, it is permissible to use wood screws.
A ventilation gap is left between the finishing materials and the layer of vapor and water protection so that condensation can flow down without affecting the insulation.
Insulation of walls in a bathhouse made of foam blocks (the diagram is suitable for all block walls of bathhouses)
What is aerated concrete
Before you start insulating a house made of aerated concrete from the inside, you should familiarize yourself with what this material is. It is a lightweight cellular concrete, in the production of which gas-forming agents are used. The ingredients may include not only cement and sand, but also:
- lime;
- gypsum;
- ash;
- slags
According to their purpose, blocks can be:
- structural;
- thermal insulation;
- structural and thermal insulation.
Classifications can also be made according to hardening conditions. In the first case, after pouring the solution, the material is exposed to saturated steam, while in the second the solution polymerizes under natural conditions.
Insulation of a bathhouse from the outside
In fact, most often it is not required. Indications for thermal insulation of a bathhouse from the outside may be:
- harsh climatic conditions caused by critically low temperatures in winter;
- location of the bathhouse (for example, if it is located in a lowland with constant fog);
- combining insulation with external decorative finishing.
External insulation additionally plays the role of protecting the structure from the effects of precipitation and other natural phenomena of high humidity. The pie of external insulation is essentially similar to the internal one: sheathing, insulation, vapor barrier, ventilation gap and finishing materials.
The installation of external insulation is justified if you are going to cover the walls of the bathhouse with finishing materials. A thin layer of insulation will perform several functions at once, and you would do the sheathing for attaching siding or other finishing materials either way.
Exterior finishing
The outside of the bathhouse must be primed with a water-repellent compound. This will protect the aerated concrete from external influences. The facade can be covered with decorative plaster or vinyl siding can be installed. Owners of buildings of this type note the rapid heating of the steam room, and they are quite satisfied with the strength of the structure.
Based on this information, we can conclude that aerated concrete is a worthy alternative to lumber when building a bathhouse with your own hands.
Thematic video will help in construction:
Aerated concrete blocks Bonolit (Staraya Kupavna) D600 B3.5 600x250x200Aerated concrete wall block for low-rise construction Bonolit, flat, density D600...
From 3500 rub/m³Read more
Aerated concrete blocks Bonolit (Staraya Kupavna) D400 B2 600x250x200Aerated concrete wall block for low-rise construction Bonolit, flat, density D400...
From 3500 rub/m³Read more
Aerated concrete block CUBI D500 B2.5 F100 625x250x200 smoothAerated silicate wall block for low-rise construction CUBI (EZSM), smooth, density…
From 3250 rub/m³Read more
Metal tile Grand Line Classic, Polyester, green foliage (RAL 6002) 0.45 mmMetal tile in the Classic profile, the shape of which is close to the classic ceramic tile…
From 402 RUR/m²Read more
Insulation technology by type of block
Differences in the insulation technology of baths built from different types of blocks are directly related to the method of production of the blocks. The spread of block baths is caused by the reasons already stated, as well as the high speed of construction of baths from building blocks.
Insulation of a bathhouse made of foam blocks from the inside
The specificity is related to the porous (foamy) structure of the blocks, because they are produced by foaming cement or concrete with the addition of sand and a special protein agent. Porosity makes the blocks more susceptible to moisture penetration, thereby reducing the thermal insulation of the structure and its service life.
Insulation of a bathhouse made of expanded clay concrete blocks from the inside
Expanded clay concrete blocks also have a porous structure, despite their production on a vibropress. They are among the high-quality and environmentally friendly materials. When a bathhouse is built from expanded clay concrete blocks, the insulation of the walls is similar to the thermal insulation of foam block walls.
Similar to foam blocks, they have a tendency to absorb moisture. Foil (including aluminum foil) and kraft paper work well as waterproofing. Foil is excellent as an additional shielding material.
Interior decoration and insulation of a cinder block bathhouse
Cinder blocks are distinguished by a very low price, which can hide various “fillings” of the block : from residues of the metallurgical industry to slag from coal combustion. They are most often made in a handicraft way. Therefore, blocks may differ in weight, thermal conductivity and other characteristics .
The popularity is also due to the fact that the blocks can be produced in different sizes. The insulation is similar to the insulation of a bath made of expanded clay concrete.
Interior finishing must be carried out while maintaining a ventilated gap. Wooden finishing materials are best suited: lining, block house, etc. Cover them with bath oil, and they will last a long time (they will protect against moisture, and as a result, prevent the appearance and development of rot). In addition, oil impregnation will emphasize the natural grain of the wood.
Insulation of a bathhouse made of gas silicate blocks from the inside
Gas silicate blocks have several gradations:
- category D800 and higher (high strength, but low thermal insulation);
- category in the range D500-D800 (average of both indicators);
- category D500 and below (characterized by low strength and high thermal insulation).
In addition, aerated concrete is a type of cellular block, that is, its structure contains air cells. But they are all hygroscopic. You can’t do without high-quality and reliable waterproofing. In addition, it is necessary to protect the blocks themselves from exposure to high temperatures, which can negatively affect their strength and durability.
Features of external work
Initially, it is advisable to prepare and plaster the facade in order to achieve acceptable evenness of the walls and fill existing cracks and crevices. Most often, the facade of aerated concrete baths is sheathed with mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. In the first case, the walls are first covered with rolled materials to protect the insulation from moisture.
If polystyrene foam boards are a priority, they can be fixed on external surfaces without worrying about laying guides in advance; This is where special glue or polyurethane foam comes in handy. Next, the panels are additionally fixed with dowels, the joints and seams are filled with foam. A sheathing for installation of siding is stuffed on top: this sheathing will help protect the insulation from mechanical damage and exposure to ultraviolet radiation.
Insulation for block walls
A distinctive feature of the bath is the high temperature level during its use. Therefore, for a steam room, the choice of insulation must be limited. We generally recommend not using the following materials to insulate a bathhouse from the inside :
- mineral wool;
- polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam;
- glass wool
When heated, mineral wool They are definitely harmful to the human body. The same situation is with the release of harmful substances from polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene under the influence of temperature.
We can say an unequivocal “no” to glass wool It is dangerous to use: protection of hands, skin, eyes and respiratory tract is required. It is subject to deformation under the influence of high temperature (which is typical for a bath). Over time, it may begin to emit an unpleasant odor.
Nevertheless, these insulation materials are popular due to their availability and low price.
A good material for insulation can be ecowool : it is environmentally friendly, when applied using the “wet” method, it fills the entire surface, creeping even into small cracks. But this is also its disadvantage: you cannot do without special skills and equipment to apply it.
Peat blocks and foam glass have proven themselves to be modern and high-quality materials . They are not exposed to moisture, are fireproof, but, alas, quite expensive. At the same time, peat blocks are rare - only a few companies produce them in Russia.
Foil roll insulating materials work well (see link above). They need to be overlapped and glued with aluminum tape.
Insulating a bathhouse from the inside is a labor-intensive but necessary process. You will be able to recoup your costs due to the fact that with proper insulation, you will need significantly less firewood (or other type of fuel) than you would spend trying to heat a bathhouse insulated from the outside.
Internal insulation goes well with the upholstery of the bathhouse and finishing materials. You provide: warmth, safety and a beautiful aesthetic appearance.
You may also need the following materials for insulating baths:
Comparison of insulation materials
The choice of insulators for insulating bathhouse walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks is based on the following criteria:
- ease of installation, quick assembly;
- functionality;
- heat resistance;
- heat saving;
- hygroscopicity.
The most popular thermal fiber is its safety and versatility - it can be used both inside and outside. Before installation, preliminary preparation of the walls is necessary - cleaning them from dust, dirt, plastering. The latter measure also serves as additional insulation.
Natural jute felt is easy to install and does not impose specific requirements on conditions. This is an effective, environmentally friendly option. Polystyrene foam and mineral wool have good insulating characteristics and are attractive due to their low cost, low dead weight, and ease of installation. Mineral wool is more preferable here, since it does not arouse interest among rodents.
Expanded clay insulation is used to insulate block baths
Expanded clay insulation is still relevant, since it is free-flowing and can only be used to strengthen the ceiling and floor. Basalt wool is fireproof, mold and fungi do not grow in it, it is durable and environmentally friendly. Foamed polypropylene is used in tandem with foil; this combination can withstand heating up to 150°C.
Bathhouse made of gas silicate blocks: construction and finishing using the example of a small private bathhouse
After several years of owning a summer cottage, I decided to build my own bathhouse. The planned dimensions are 5x5.3 m, the height to the ceiling is 2.25 m. The bathhouse is small, family type, with a gable roof and a small attic (the height from the attic floor to the roof ridge is 1.9 m). I thought about the construction material for a long time and decided to go with gas silicate blocks. The walls of the bathhouse and the gables of the attic were built from them. Inside, the steam room was insulated with a standard “pie” of insulation, vapor barrier and lining. In the rest room and in the attic, gas silicate was lined with clapboards, in the washing room it was tiled. I’ll tell you about all the stages of construction and internal lining of the walls of my bathhouse made of gas silicate.
Laying communications
Aerated concrete block can be easily processed by hand. Drilling holes for communications and electrical wiring is not difficult for an experienced craftsman. A specialist will do the work based on the characteristics of the porous structure of the aerated block. The cable in the wall is made of aerated concrete, placed in a corrugated tube, then laid along grooves made in blocks. You should pay attention to careful insulation - it must be used if the frame is wooden, because the room is associated with high humidity, which destroys the wood. With the help of interior decoration, the bathhouse becomes moisture-resistant and durable. Thanks to additional materials, high-quality insulation is carried out. If the hand of a professional intervenes in the process, optimizing the project to achieve an ideal price-quality ratio, this guarantees the durability of the bath and comfort during its operation.
Why were gas silicate blocks chosen?
When I just started construction, many neighbors in the dacha community asked me a question about why I chose gas silicate blocks. Somehow everyone got used to either wood or brick. And my arguments are:
- Quick installation. Gas silicate blocks are larger in size than bricks, so the construction of walls from them is much faster.
- High thermal insulation. Gas silicate belongs to cellular concrete, that is, it has many air cells inside. They play the role of heat insulators. Therefore, a bathhouse made of gas silicate blocks, in comparison with a brick one, warms up faster and retains heat longer. In terms of thermal insulation qualities, gas silicate is not inferior to wood.
- Fire resistance. Gas silicate blocks do not burn, unlike wooden structures.
- Impossibility of rotting.
- Low cost compared to brick, timber or logs.
In addition, I have good bricklaying skills, so I decided that I could handle gas silicate blocks.
I'll start in order.
Gas block during the construction of a bathhouse
Aerated concrete bathhouse designs must take into account certain features of the material. After all, a traditional bathhouse is built from natural wood, which does not have a long service life, can rot and become covered with fungus, requires careful care, and is easily flammable. Aerated concrete does not have all these disadvantages, but it also has certain features.
Aerated concrete has a porous structure, large dimensions, ideal shape, and low weight. Thanks to the pores inside the concrete, it is possible to provide high heat/sound insulating properties, but they can also cause the destruction of the building. Aerated concrete is hygroscopic, the pores absorb water, under the influence of which they collapse. Therefore, a bathhouse made of aerated concrete blocks requires proper finishing inside and out.
On the other hand, it is thanks to the pores that heat is retained inside the building - aerated concrete demonstrates excellent heat-saving indicators, allowing you to save on heating in winter and creating an optimal microclimate in summer.
Advantages
The design of a bathhouse made of aerated concrete can include a variety of rooms and elements, involve the construction of a small building 5 by 4 or a huge building on two floors
Regardless of the features of the project and the scale of the bathhouse, before starting work, it is important to study all the advantages and disadvantages of the material
Key advantages of aerated concrete:
No shrinkage and, as a consequence, the risk of cracks and deformations. Speed of construction - due to the large blocks and low weight, the masonry proceeds quickly. Reduced installation costs due to the absence of the need to rent special equipment and the ability to do all the work yourself. Reasonable cost - the final estimate usually involves an amount that is 2-3 times less than a wooden bathhouse. The aerated block is completely safe for health and environmentally friendly - the material is made from natural raw materials, it does not emit toxins or other harmful substances. The foundation can be lightweight due to the low weight of aerated concrete and, as a result, a reduction in the total mass of the building.
A low level of flammability is a very important parameter when choosing a material for building a bathhouse, where there is an increased risk of fire. Resistance to rotting and the spread of dangerous microorganisms. Easy care - provided the correct finishing is done, aerated blocks do not need to be treated, coated, etc. The vapor permeability of aerated concrete is excellent, so condensation will not accumulate inside and there will always be an optimal microclimate in the bathhouse. High heat/sound insulation properties, which is very important for a bath. Durability – a properly constructed aerated block building can last up to 100 years. The material lends itself perfectly to processing, so the most unusual and original project can be implemented (in terms of architecture)
Flaws
Aerated concrete blocks also have certain disadvantages. There are not many of them and the impact on the operation of most of them can be minimized by finishing and technological solutions, but these features cannot be ignored.
Some disadvantages of aerated concrete blocks:
Hygroscopicity – the ability to absorb moisture is high, so it is important to choose the right materials for interior/exterior decoration and ensure high-quality waterproofing. The need for vapor barrier is to avoid the accumulation of condensation inside the walls. Not very high strength - in order for the building to be reliable, it is important to make an armored belt and strengthen the masonry of the walls with reinforcement. The presence of lime and aluminum powder in the composition - if the production process is followed, these components do not pose a danger, but if the production is artisanal, the blocks may not be very environmentally friendly. The absence of a special woody aroma and “spirit” in the bathhouse - a gas block will never be able to create this special atmosphere, like natural timber. https://www.youtube.com/embed/9JHkyWUukbs
Construction of building walls
The blocks were laid on a ready-made strip foundation, protected by two layers of roofing felt waterproofing. Blocks with dimensions of 200x300x600 mm were used. I laid them on edge, that is, the thickness of the walls turned out to be 200 mm.
The construction of gas silicate walls will be carried out on a strip foundation
For masonry, cement mortar was used, mixed in a 3:1 ratio (ratio of sand to cement).
The work was carried out according to the following plan.
Stage #1 - laying the first row of blocks on the foundation
I started laying from the angle that (according to the laser level) was the highest. I applied the solution (about 5 mm) onto the roofing material with a trowel, and pressed the block on top. For better fastening, I tapped the blocks with the handle of a trowel.
The first row is the most important; the remaining rows of blocks will be aligned with it. Therefore, the accuracy of laying the blocks of the first row must be constantly monitored by the building level in 3 directions.
If it was necessary to cut blocks, I used a grinder with diamond discs for concrete. By the way, I once saw workers from a construction crew cutting blocks with a chainsaw. It worked out very quickly. So, whichever of these tools you have, use it.
The first rows of gas silicate blocks
Stage #2 - erection of walls
Subsequent rows of blocks were laid with an offset of 15 cm. That is, the seams of the overlying blocks were shifted by 15 cm in relation to the underlying ones. Gradually the walls were built to a height of 2.25 m.
The walls of the bathhouse are made of gas silicate blocks and lined to the ceiling
Stage #3 - construction of gables
The gables were built according to the same principle as the walls, to a height of 1.9 m at the ridge. Except there was more hassle with cutting the blocks!
The gables of the bathhouse were also lined with gas silicate
Thermal insulation methods
Mineral wool, expanded clay, foil polyethylene foam
- Most often, mineral wool (walls, ceilings) is used to insulate a bathhouse made of gas silicate blocks, foam concrete or brick for internal thermal insulation, covering it with foil or foil-coated polyethylene foam. But for the floor it is cheaper to use expanded clay, if, of course, the building is built on a strip foundation (for columnar and pile foundations with a high grillage, this will be an extra load). Also, bulk material can be used for external insulation of the ceiling of a bathhouse, that is, it can be filled in the attic, if one is provided for in the project.
Extruded polystyrene foam of different thicknesses (10/220/30/40/50/60/70/80/90/100 mm)
- For exterior work, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam is used - they are very similar in structure, but differ significantly in density. So, if for foam plastic this figure is 15 kg/cm 3 and 25 kg/cm 3, then for penoplex it is much higher than 35 kg/cm 3 and 45 kg/cm 3, respectively. By the way, the frame bath is also insulated from the outside, while the insulation of the steam room of a log bath is usually done only from the inside, although there are exceptions.
Comparative chart of heat resistance of materials by their thickness
- Of course, you understand that the thermal conductivity of materials, just like their price, can differ significantly from each other. But this does not mean at all that you need to buy exclusively expensive products; it’s just that in each case you can use this or that material with maximum efficiency, even if its quality is slightly lower. For example, if you don’t need to save distance, then why don’t you use 30 or 40 mm foam instead of 20 mm foam when you line the bathhouse with siding?!
Advice. If you use mineral wool to insulate the ceiling and/or walls, then choose only stone (basalt) or glass. The fact is that slag wool (from blast furnace slag melts) contains particles of iron ore, which will rust and the material will soon become unusable.
Floor insulation
Floor insulation scheme
Pay attention to the floor insulation diagram in the bathhouse and let's look at the numbers, which materials and in what order you will need for this. Instead of a concrete slab (number 6), we will have soil on which the remaining layers will lie, and the number five indicates an expanded clay-sand cushion. Next comes the waterproofing (4), but in our case it is better to place it on the ground, creating a cut-off, and pour the screed (3) along the beacons directly onto the pillow.
There you also see ceramic tiles (2) and a wall (1), along the perimeter of which an edge strip is installed. It is interesting that when insulating a log bathhouse is done, it is not necessary, since wood itself is a good thermal insulator, but for a strip foundation such a measure is necessary so that the cold from it is not transferred to the screed, which will significantly reduce the effect of installing the insulation.
Laying out the soil for pouring the screed
But this is all schematic, but in reality, insulating a bathhouse made of foam blocks or bricks begins with planning and compacting the soil on the floor. Then lay cut-off waterproofing directly on the soil with a fold over the walls at the height of the screed and pour a sand cushion of at least 20 mm thick onto it.
Please note that we recommend this order, although many advise doing it the other way around (first sand, then cutting off) - in this case, the sand will remain dry and will increase the thermal insulation power of the floor.
Lighthouses on expanded clay
Expanded clay is poured onto a sand cushion, and the thickness will depend not only on the average soil temperature, but also on the fraction. So, expanded clay can be less than 5 mm, which is considered as expanded clay sand, as well as 5-10 mm - small, 10-20 mm - medium and 20-40 mm - large fraction. Such a pillow can be reinforced, as shown in the photo above, but you can also do without it - after all, the load on the floor in the bathhouse is small.
The lighthouse profiles are mounted directly on the expanded clay, and the next day the screed is poured. Just don’t forget to leave a waterproofing film and edge tape near the wall to prevent the transfer of cold from the foundation to the floor surface. By the way, the tape can be made from foil polyethylene foam.
Walls and ceiling
Scheme for insulating brick baths
The picture at the top shows how a bathhouse is insulated from expanded clay concrete blocks, foam and gas blocks, bricks and even logs. But this is a general scheme and there are some nuances here, which mainly depend on the material and method of manufacturing the frame for wooden lining.
Imagine that such a sheathing is made from a wooden beam, which is fixed directly to the wall, without consoles, that is, there are no gaps between them.
Full thermal insulation of the wall
In such cases, insulation materials (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam) are placed tightly directly between the bars, but a waterproofing or vapor-permeable film should be installed underneath. Then, from above, all this, together with the sheathing, is covered with a layer of foil or thin (2-5 mm) foil-clad polyethylene foam, which serves as a reflector. After all, the wooden lining is sewn on.
Advice. To fix foil materials, it is best to use not a stapler, but thin slats such as glazing beads, in order to penetrate the insulation as little as possible.
Mineral wool is threaded through the console
The sheathing can also be mounted on consoles, for example, these will be CD profiles for fastening drywall, which are installed on U-shaped metal hangers. If you lay the insulation in the same way as before, you will be left with uncovered strips through which heat will escape.
Installation of a “pie” of insulation in a steam room
I would like to see the interior surfaces of the bathhouse finished in wood. For almost nothing, I managed to buy a machine for cutting aspen boards 20 mm thick and 125 mm wide. I used it for finishing, having previously smoothed the surfaces with a plane and sander. It turned out to be a good lining!
Despite the good thermal insulation qualities of gas silicate, additional insulation will never hurt. Especially in a steam room, where there are temperature changes and high humidity. Without insulation, streams of condensate will flow through the gas silicate. This is not very good for blocks, but generally disastrous for lining. First it will twist, then it will rot.
Therefore, I decided to equip the steam room with the traditional insulation “pie”: insulation - vapor barrier - lining.
The plan was carried out according to the following scheme.
Stage #1 - stuffing slats on the walls and laying insulation
Paroc mineral wool must be laid over gas silicate, inserting mats between the padded slats.
I attached 50x50 mm slats to the walls vertically using wood screws. It turned out that they are easily screwed into gas silicate and are firmly held in it. A 50 mm thick insulation was laid between the slats. I tried to lay it tightly, squeezing the cotton a little before installing it in the slatted “window”. It is important here to avoid any cracks, otherwise cold bridges will negate all thermal insulation.
Laying insulation between slats packed on the wall
Stage #2 - installation of a vapor barrier layer
For vapor barrier, two materials were used - Metaspan film and foil. First, I shot Metaspan onto the slats with an overlap of about 15-20 cm. Then - foil, with the same overlap. The joints of both layers were taped with foil tape. Such a vapor barrier will not only prevent moisture and steam from accessing the Paroc insulation, but will also serve as a kind of continuation of the insulating layer. The foil vapor barrier Metaspan + aluminum foil will serve as a reflective mirror for thermal infrared rays coming from the steam room. The rays will be sent back, and accordingly the quality of thermal insulation will increase.
Fastening the Metaspan foil vapor barrier on top of the insulation
Stage #3 - making lathing for clapboard cladding
To ensure that condensate flows freely over the foil and is not absorbed into the lining, a ventilation gap was made. To do this, the sheathing had to be “pushed away” from the foil using small, 2cm thick bars nailed in advance.
Bar between foil and sheathing
Thus, first I nailed the bars through the foil (to the slats), and then horizontally fixed the sheathing of boards onto them.
The horizontal lathing for fastening the lining is made of boards
Stage #4 - paneling
The clapboard sheathing on the sheathing was done vertically using small nails.
Internal wall cladding with paired aspen lining
At first I thought that I wouldn’t treat the lining in the steam room with anything. But then I decided to play it safe against all kinds of rot and covered the boards with one layer of oil from Tikkurilla “Supi Saunasuoja”. The oil is colorless, but forms a matte film on the wood.
At this point, the design of the walls of the steam room was completed.
Internal insulation with ventilated gap
One of the most effective ways of internal insulation of a bathhouse is to create a ventilated gap between walls made of gas silicate blocks and thermal insulation. This method is often used for external insulation of residential buildings, but it is practically not used from the inside. The reason for this is the inconvenience of hanging furniture or household appliances, a significant reduction in internal space, and insects, rodents, and birds can settle in the gap.
However, for a bathhouse made of aerated blocks, this option seems to be the most successful. It is extremely difficult to provide guaranteed protection against the penetration of moist air into the wall; sooner or later cracks will open, cracks or holes will form. Therefore, it is more correct to ensure the possibility of drying the walls using a ventilated space between the insulation and the wall material.
In this case, walls made of aerated concrete are practically excluded from the thermal contour of the building, remaining only a mechanical fence. However, the heat-saving ability of the insulation will be quite sufficient, especially since traditional cladding made of wooden boards (lining) will play the role of an additional heat insulator. But it will be possible to dry the wall both from the inside, by evaporating moisture into the ventilated gap, and from the outside, in the usual way.
From a design point of view, you need a frame that carries thermal insulation and sheathing. It is separated from the wall by 4-5 cm (the usual size of a ventilated gap). Air exchange is carried out through vents - slotted holes located in the lower and upper parts of the wall (usually, covers for them are made outside the walls so as not to violate the tightness of the lining of the internal surfaces of the bathhouse). The vents open only after using the bath; they are closed during heating and bath procedures.
There is a lot of controversy surrounding this method. Opponents argue that cold walls will become surfaces on which condensation will actively accumulate. The material will get wet and begin to deteriorate. However, this statement is refuted by operating practice - in winter, steam immediately settles on the surface of the wall and forms a layer of frost. After finishing using the bathhouse, it gradually evaporates. Since the time of using the bathhouse is relatively short, this frost does not have time to form a blockage in the ventilated space. In addition, the technique does not reject the need to seal the space behind the frame and form a complete cutoff of internal air from the ventilated cavity. The essence of the technique is not the constant removal of steam, but the ability to eliminate the accumulation of moisture in the wall material.
Cladding the rest room and attic
For the cladding I used the same aspen paneling as in the steam room. I just sewed it onto the slats horizontally. I did not use any vapor or thermal insulation.
First of all, I attached vertical slats (made of boards) to the gas silicate walls. I nailed the clapboard to them with nails.
Vertical slats are mounted on gas silicate blocks using wood screws
The walls of the rest room were covered with aspen paneling horizontally
Upon completion of the work, I covered the lining with antiseptic impregnation “Drevnokhron oak” (Polifarb) in 2 layers. The second layer was applied after the first had dried, that is, the next day.
Preparation of materials and tools
After drawing up the drawing, you can calculate the exact amount of required consumables. You need to add another 10% to the resulting amount to avoid unnecessary trips to the hardware store. Tools and materials:
- for the foundation - boards for formwork, concrete mixer, buckets, reinforcement, tying wire, sand, crushed stone, cement;
- for the floor - logs, boards for rough and finishing flooring;
- for the roof - rafters, cross beams, battens for sheathing, roofing material;
- for walls - gas blocks with masonry mortar;
- shovels, trowel, trowel, containers for mortar;
- drill with whisk attachment, screwdriver with bits;
- hacksaw for wood, saw for gas blocks;
- miter saw, rubber mallet;
- marking tool, tape measure, building level;
- vapor barrier film, insulation.
Instructions on how to insulate a bathhouse from the inside
Visiting a bathhouse is a very pleasant and healthy pastime. In order for this lesson not to be overshadowed by anything, you should carefully think through all the stages of work even in the process of planning the bathhouse project. One of the most important stages of work is the insulation of the bathhouse. If everything is done correctly and efficiently, the bathhouse will heat up quickly, retain heat well, and fuel consumption will be significantly less than when heating an uninsulated bathhouse. You can read the instructions on how to insulate a brick bath here.
The picture shows the insulation of the bathhouse from the inside in progress
Proper insulation
The microclimate inside the bathhouse depends on what material the bathhouse itself is made of. Accordingly, the design and materials for insulating a bathhouse from the inside also differ depending on the original material of the bathhouse built.
The figure shows a diagram of the insulation of bathhouse walls from the inside
The process of step-by-step insulation of a bathhouse from the inside depends, first of all, on the material from which the walls are made. In any case, there are basic standard insulation works that apply to any bathhouse:
- Waterproofing walls;
- Construction of the sheathing (depending on the type of insulation chosen);
- Vapor barrier;
- Finishing the walls with finishing material.
Types and methods of insulating a bathhouse from the inside
- Insulation of a bathhouse made of blocks from the inside. Block building materials, such as foam blocks and cinder blocks, have a porous surface, due to which they are endowed with excellent thermal insulation properties. And yet, in the cold season, a bathhouse made of blocks will freeze, so it should still be insulated. In this case, it is recommended to use mineral wool, fiberglass or foam, which are then covered with a vapor barrier if we are talking about a steam room. Read the instructions on how to insulate a bathhouse with foam on this page.
- Insulation of aerated concrete baths from the inside. When constructing a frame for thermal insulation, a gap must be provided between the wall and the frame and good ventilation must be ensured. To do this, special openings are left at the top and bottom of the building, which must be closed during bath procedures, and open during drying of the room. Next, the selected thermal insulation material is attached to the frame, a board is placed on top, then a vapor barrier and a finishing board on top of it, preferably made of aspen or cedar. If you follow this design, then the problem of wall freezing simply will not arise.
- Insulation of a frame bath from the inside. The very structure of a frame bath involves laying thermal insulation into its “skeleton”, and the insulating technology of this type is called “Canadian”. In this case, mineral wool is used, which will make the frame bath energy-saving, unlike foam plastic. Thus, insulation boards are placed in each compartment of the frame and are necessarily covered with hydro- and vapor barrier. Afterwards, all that remains is to cover the walls with finishing material, such as wooden lining. Experts also recommend using a mixture of sawdust and wood chips with lime as insulation for a frame bath.
The figure shows a diagram of the insulation of a bathhouse made of timber from the inside
Numbers 1 and 3 indicate hydro- and vapor barrier materials. Number 2 is the thermal insulation material, number 4 is the finishing material of the walls.
The photo shows an example of insulating a brick bathhouse
The brick bathhouse is insulated with mineral wool slabs, on top of which foil-foamed polyethylene foam is attached, which enhances the thermal insulation properties of the main insulation and protects it from moisture.
Construction of a frame in a bathhouse from blocks for further fastening of insulation in the photo
It is recommended to insulate a bathhouse made of blocks with mineral wool or fiberglass, which are fixed to a pre-prepared wooden frame.
Insulation from the inside
Mineral wool is very popular among insulation materials; it is produced by processing mineral stones. This material has excellent thermal insulation characteristics, has a high thermal conductivity coefficient, is fire resistant, environmentally friendly and durable.
To insulate the walls with mineral wool, first construct a lath, floor, and wooden lining, which will serve as a finishing material. The lathing is usually attached to metal consoles. That is, first the consoles are attached, then the mineral wool slabs are placed directly on the consoles, and then the sheathing is attached to the console.
Base insulation
Insulation and waterproofing of the basement of the bathhouse is very important. The fact is that the foundation and plinth are located quite close to the cold and often damp soil, and therefore they are destroyed more quickly under the influence of negative factors. To prevent dampness and cold from penetrating into the steam room, the base should be well waterproofed and insulated. In this case, penoplex or polystyrene foam will serve as a good thermal insulation material.
Roof insulation
And it is undesirable to stop at choosing polystyrene foam, since when heated it releases toxic substances. Roof insulation begins with good hydro- and vapor barrier. The ideal option for insulating the roof of a bathhouse would be to place the insulation between the roof rafters, if we are talking about a finished building. A guide to insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse is here: https://banya-gid.ru/oborudovanie-dlya-bani/rukovodstvo-po-utepleniyu-potolka-v-bane.html.
Drafting
The positive aspects of aerated concrete do not in any way affect the success of the construction process. In order for the idea to build a bathhouse from aerated concrete to be successful, it is necessary to think through each stage of the construction process. To do this, it is necessary to draw up a project. This is what you will have to focus on when carrying out activities at the construction site.
Many experts note that creating a project for such a structure from scratch is quite a serious task. Not all architects can cope with its successful implementation. Therefore, a more reasonable solution would be to use a ready-made outline plan, to which changes are made in accordance with the customer’s preferences.
When drawing up a project for a bathhouse made of aerated concrete, the following important points must be present in this document:
- Dimensions of the object.
- Layout. It is also necessary to indicate the dimensions of individual rooms. In relation to a bathhouse, the design must include the dimensions of a steam room, a rest room, as well as a vestibule and a bathroom.
- Type of foundation used.
- Method of installation of furnace equipment, its main technical characteristics and location option.
- Features of communications supply. It is necessary to describe in detail how the ventilation system and chimney will be installed.
When the design work is completed, you can proceed to the preparation of the materials necessary for construction work. Naturally, you should also think about purchasing the necessary tools that will allow you to carry out the necessary activities efficiently and quickly. The main material for the construction of such a bathhouse, of course, is aerated concrete blocks. In addition to them, you will need:
- dry cement;
- adhesive for aerated concrete;
- ladle or carriage for adhesive composition;
- reinforcing bars;
- roofing felt;
- rubber hammer;
- hacksaw;
- sand;
- grater;
- level.
When choosing a material, you should not purchase cheap blocks. You need to understand that the lower their price, the less correct the shape will be. And this affects the quality of the work performed. Of course, aerated concrete should not have defects in the form of chips and cracks. Otherwise, you can immediately forget about the dream of building a reliable structure.
Walls and ceiling
The finishing of the steam room made of aerated concrete has no distinctive features. Like saunas made of other materials, a heat room made of aerated block should protect from exposure to high humidity. Internal work in the steam room involves the use of reflective foil. The wall is also covered with a vapor-waterproofing membrane. It does not allow water to pass through on the one hand, but on the other, the micro-perforation structure releases steam without obstacles.
Lining is an ideal material for subsequent finishing. The hanging material is mounted on the lathing, into which the slab insulation is laid. Some customers prefer to use natural wood for other sections of the bathhouse. Finishing a sauna made of aerated concrete requires special impregnations and primers that provide additional protection. A specialist, based on work experience, will name the necessary advantages of the material for the internal treatment of the sauna.
Material for interior decoration of baths
Most often, the interior decoration of a bathhouse made of aerated blocks is made of wood; lining is also an excellent building material. They can additionally insulate floors and walls. Builders make demands on the material based on the purpose of the structure:
· absence of toxic substances released when heated, wood is well suited;
· resistance to moisture and high temperatures, namely waterproofing;
· low thermal conductivity to maintain heat in the room;
· aesthetic appearance.
Ash and alder are most suitable for finishing a room such as a steam room due to their durability. Wood lining is used for wall cladding. The washing compartment of the bathhouse is made of coniferous trees that emit a lot of resin, combined with a dressing room trimmed with ceramic tiles. As a result, the building is cozy and reliable.
Laying the foundation
Due to the lightness of the aerated concrete structure, the foundation does not require special power, so the most popular strip type of foundation can be used to build a bathhouse from an aerated concrete block.
- First you need to measure the area of the territory, then mark the outline. To do this, you will need to drive pegs into the ground and pull a cord along them. It must be taken into account that the width of the foundation should be 15–20 centimeters wider than the walls.
- Next, a trench is dug to a depth below the freezing point of the ground in a specific area. The first layer is made of sand approximately 10 centimeters thick. After compaction, the next, same layer of gravel is poured in and compacted again.
- Next, for waterproofing, there is a layer of roofing material, after which the formwork is installed.
- To install the reinforcing structure, reinforcing bars are used, the thickness of each should be at least 1.2 centimeters. The reinforcement is connected by welding or tied using baked steel wire. To join at the corners, the rods are bent and then secured.
- After the preparatory work on assembling the reinforcement frame, concrete is poured. Horizontal fill lines must be smooth, so you need to monitor their level. It is best to use a concrete mixer and pour the foundation right away.
After one month, the foundation hardens, but according to the advice of professionals, it should be allowed to stand in the winter.
