Ceiling insulation with clay and sawdust: proportions, pros and cons

We can say with confidence that clay was the very first to be used in construction. This material turned out to be so good that it is still used today. Clay is often used with various additives, such as sawdust. Its ability to harden has made it an ideal material for a wide variety of construction applications. It is used to create load-bearing structures; mortars for laying bricks are made on its basis, as well as to create an insulating composition by adding sawdust. Clay with sawdust is an environmentally friendly and economical insulation for the home, which you can make with your own hands.

Rules for choosing wood material

If you make a choice between shavings and sawdust, the choice falls on the second option. The smaller the wood waste fraction, the higher the thermal insulation properties of the material.
Sawdust of different types of wood have different properties. Coniferous species are lighter in weight and contain more resins in their composition. They will better insulate the home. Deciduous and fruit trees are heavier and denser; birch is considered the champion.
Dry sawdust should only be used if it is mixed with dry lime for backfilling. In various other cases, when connecting them to components in a wet state, the dryness of the sawdust mass is not of fundamental importance. When choosing sawdust, it is not the humidity itself that plays a role, but the age of the raw material. It is impossible to carry out insulation from sawdust of fresh wood. They must gain age and “shake out”, preferably within a year.
When choosing a chip or sawdust mass, you must check that the composition does not contain tree bark waste. Bugs and insects nest in the thickness of the bark; it is necessary to most effectively prevent them from getting into the insulation.

Arbolit

In the 60s of the last century, a building material called wood concrete was patented. Currently, slabs made from it are actively used for ceiling insulation in private homes. This type of material is nothing more than ordinary lightweight concrete. Such panels, 100 mm thick, can be prepared at home, using a homemade method, if you dry the mass in special flat molds.

To make them, they are used for sawdust and shavings. All wood-based materials contain sugary substances that contribute to the destruction of the concrete structure. To neutralize them, the shavings are treated with lime milk before use and then dried. After such preparation, it is an ideal filler for the manufacture of insulation boards.

Choosing sawdust for insulation

Before talking about the application technology, let's consider the quality of the source material.
When purchasing sawdust for home insulation, we recommend taking into account several features . The first thing you need to pay attention to is the size of the sawdust. Their properties as insulation directly depend on this

Large sawdust is suitable for the rough layer, as it has a larger volume and forms an air gap;
but small sawdust retains heat better, although in practical use they are not so convenient - they generate dust and get clogged in all the cracks;
For mixing with cement or other fillers, medium-sized sawdust is best.

The second property of sawdust that you need to pay attention to is its moisture content.

It is important that the material you use to insulate your home is dry, as wet sawdust will rot and also attract bugs. In a workshop for processing freshly cut wood, sawdust will be wet; it is better to prefer waste from a workshop for cutting boards, since the wood is thoroughly dried before this work

In a workshop for processing freshly cut wood, sawdust will be wet; it is better to prefer waste from a workshop for cutting boards, since the wood is thoroughly dried before this work.

In cases where the origin of the sawdust is unknown, you can check them for moisture yourself: if, when clenched into a fist, they crumble and crunch, then the product is dry, and if they gather in lumps, the product is wet.

Wet sawdust can be dried, but this will require space and time. You can spread the sawdust over the summer in a dry, ventilated area (for example, in the attic), and stir it periodically.

Features of using sawdust and lime as insulation

First, sawdust is thoroughly mixed with other ingredients, then applied to areas that require insulation and compacted. The result is a block of wood that is resistant to rotting and destruction. The sawdust must be treated with an antiseptic, and then thoroughly dried, and then mixed with lime, which protects the surface from various rodents.

In areas where it is difficult to get to, sawdust without any kind of impurities is used. Clean sawdust, without treatment with a special agent, has disadvantages: it is flammable, and rodents can grow in such materials. With proper processing and addition of impurities, these problems can be avoided.

Clay insulation

There are several options for clay mixtures: with sand, with sawdust or with straw. The principle of operation in them is usually similar. But it also has its own characteristics. A very important point is the correct preparation of the working mixture. The quality of the insulation, its durability (if the proportions are not met, the material may crumble or break), and the ability to retain heat depend on this.

Sand and clay

Any repair begins with the preparation of a working solution. Sand and clay are loaded into a concrete mixer and water is added. You can mix them yourself, but this is a very long and labor-intensive process, because you need to achieve a uniform consistency, like thick sour cream.

The resulting solution is coated with the boards. The layer should also be uniform, approximately 5-7 cm. The mixture is allowed to dry for at least 2 weeks. Then sand is poured over the clay; the layer should be thick, at least 2-3 cm. This will not only protect the mixture from sudden temperature changes. Over time, cracks may appear in the clay. Sand will fill the voids as necessary. Thermal insulation will not deteriorate.

The process of laying the clay layer is completed by treatment with liquid steam and then dry. It turns out that the material first gets a little wet, and then, as it were, hardens.

Clay with sawdust

Then 2 buckets of the resulting liquid clay are poured into a concrete mixer and sawdust is added to the bowl. The finished solution will resemble a concrete screed in its consistency. It is poured onto boards and leveled. It is advisable to compact the layer a little when insulating the ceiling with clay and sawdust in order to get rid of excess voids.

Clay with straw

Clay with straw
Clay is moistened and mixed with chopped straw. The result should be a thick mass similar to liquid plasticine. It is applied to the floor boards in a layer 8-10 cm thick. After drying, expanded clay, sawdust, wood chips or a mixture of these materials are poured on top. After drying, cracks may appear on the surface; repairing them is easy: just cover the top with a thin layer of clay.

It is not difficult to insulate your house or bathhouse with clay. But repairs will take a lot of time, because this material takes a long time to dry

On the other hand, it has excellent thermal insulation properties and does not burn, which is so important for houses with stove heating

Chock: birch or coniferous

Wood in houses built using Cordwood technology ranges from 40 to 60%. The rest is the solution and insulating mixture. 30 different types of wood are used, but softwood stumps are preferred: Pacific yew, juniper, bald cypress, cedars. Chunks of Douglas fir, western larch, pine, and poplar are also suitable. You can take alder and aspen, but not birch logs! Birch logs are the most unsuitable material for such projects; all stories on the topic “I built a house from birch logs” end sadly.

Before use, firewood must rest for a year, or better yet, three, otherwise significant shrinkage is possible (up to 10 cm).

Member FORUMHOUSE Metamorphos:

– Of course, the type of wood is important. As you know, oak only gets stronger from moisture

It is important how to treat the wood: stain (to enhance the color and texture), moisture-bio-fire protection, resin-based compositions (crystallize the structure of the wood, blocking the pores), as well as various waxes and varnishes (give the wood shine and water-repellent properties). At a minimum, end machining is required.

After it, the hut will have a luster.

Well-dried wood is prepared for construction: the bark is removed from the hemp, the end edges of the firewood are sanded to smooth out burrs that will accumulate moisture.

Before you start stacking firewood (or at least its ends), it is advisable to soak it with an antiseptic or burn it with a blowtorch.

Solution for laying firewood: choosing the best

Experts give various recipes for mortar for building with firewood. Here it is: 9 parts sand, 3 parts sawdust (preferably from softwood), the same amount of building lime, 2 parts Portland cement. For external waterproofing, silicate plaster and linseed oil are used. Another recipe suggests mixing 3 parts sand, 2 parts wetted sawdust, 1 part Portland cement and 1 slaked lime.

Some builders plant firewood on a mixture of clay and sand or straw. The name of this “clay” technology is “clay mortar”.

Houses made of clay, photo. Projects in Russia.

According to FORUMHOUSE member Vatar, it is undesirable to do this:

“It was our Kulibins who began to make clay mortars, sculpt them from clay, and then scrupulously cover up the cracks every year. I know from my own experience working with clay mortar how difficult it is to choose a composition with the least amount of cracking. In addition, the clay for the solution must sit outside during the winter. Alternatively, you can experiment with the composition clay-lime-sand-sawdust, and the ratio of clay to sand should be no more than 1 to 4.

If the gazebo is made of logs and clay, processing the ends with a blowtorch will be more organic.

Gazebo made of logs and clay, processing of ends.

Sawdust with lime (or a mixture of sawdust soaked overnight with vermiculite), polyurethane foam, fiberglass, cellulose, and polystyrene are used as an insulating layer when building a block house.

Metamorphos forum user suggests this solution:

– To reduce the thermal conductivity of cement, you need to knead foam concrete (perlite concrete, expanded clay concrete, or, at worst, sawdust concrete), use various additives in the form of lime, PVA glue (this will ensure a reliable bond between the cement and the wood), and all sorts of plasticizers. It would be good to tint the concrete with pigment at the mixing stage, because the whitish-gray color does not look very good with wood. As an option, during laying, concrete is placed in the inner layer (about 15 cm), and the outer layer (the same amount) is filled with two-component polyurethane foam with a density higher than 35 kg/cub.m. This will provide the necessary strength, the absence of cracks when drying and good thermal insulation, and the yellowish color of the polyurethane foam in this case will not spoil the appearance.

Clay insulation

Sand and clay

The process of laying the clay layer is completed by treatment with liquid steam and then dry. It turns out that the material first gets a little wet, and then, as it were, hardens.

Clay with sawdust

This is the most common insulation option. Any sawdust will do. You can get them almost free of charge at any carpentry workshop. The mixture is prepared as follows: first soak the clay so that it becomes liquid. To do this, 5 buckets of clay are filled with 2 buckets of water. Allow to absorb a little moisture and stir until smooth. Then 2 buckets of the resulting liquid clay are poured into a concrete mixer and sawdust is added to the bowl. The finished solution will resemble a concrete screed in its consistency. It is poured onto boards and leveled. It is advisable to compact the layer a little when insulating the ceiling with clay and sawdust in order to get rid of excess voids. The thickness of the layer should be at least 10 cm. It is left to dry for 1-2 weeks. If cracks appear after drying, they are covered with a thin layer of clay.

Clay with straw

The clay is moistened and mixed with chopped straw. The result should be a thick mass similar to liquid plasticine. It is applied to the floor boards in a layer 8-10 cm thick. After drying, expanded clay, sawdust, wood chips or a mixture of these materials are poured on top. After drying, cracks may appear on the surface; repairing them is easy: just cover the top with a thin layer of clay.

The repair is completed by covering the insulation with boards or wood boards. Then the ceiling will look complete.

It is not difficult to insulate your house or bathhouse with clay. But repairs will take a lot of time, because this material takes a long time to dry

On the other hand, it has excellent thermal insulation properties and does not burn, which is so important for houses with stove heating

Expert advice

To recognize a quality clay suitable for insulation, pay attention to the following material characteristics:

Prepare a clay paste by mixing the raw material with water and squeezing it in your fist. Your fingers should stick together. Roll into a ball and flatten it with your palms. After this, turn your palm with the workpiece down and squeeze and unclench your fingers until the mass falls off. It’s good if part of it remains stuck to the palm.
To test plasticity, moisten the raw material and roll out a thin rod. Wrap it around your finger. A rod made from a high-quality mixture will not tear. After clenching in a fist, no water should drip from the mass. Good clay will be squeezed out of the fist with a narrow ribbon.
To find out the percentage of sludge, roll the wet material into a ball. Then flatten it and pat it with your hand. If water appears on the surface while maintaining the color of the mass, this indicates a minimum silt content. A change in color indicates a high percentage of silt.
High-quality dry clay breaks in the hand into small pieces, which then cannot be crushed when dry.

To insulate the attic floor, you can prepare clay slabs with the addition of sawdust. This method is suitable for thermal insulation of an existing house. The slabs are prepared in molds measuring 500x500x200 mm. The blocks are made on a flat surface, and after hardening they are transferred and laid on the floor of the attic. Their ends are lubricated with a liquid solution.

Stage one. Selecting raw materials

The best option for use as insulation is sawdust of the middle fraction. The reason is extremely simple: it is difficult to work with fine starting material, and coarse sawdust has insufficient thermal insulation properties. Sawdust from cutting in carpentry production is considered the best, because it has low humidity, so it does not require additional drying, and will not begin to rot when used.

If sawdust is available exclusively from round timber, which has natural moisture, then before laying it should be spread out under some kind of canopy and dried thoroughly. There is no need to cover, otherwise they will start to rot.

Choosing sawdust for ceiling insulation

What types of sawdust are more suitable? Give preference to coniferous species - they contain a lot of resin, which creates a lot of inconvenience for various types of pests. But if you are insulating a bathhouse, it is preferable to use sawdust from deciduous trees.

Also, before laying, sawdust should be left to rest for up to 1 year - during this time the level of sugars, which provoke rotting, will noticeably decrease

Pay attention to ensure that the raw materials are free of debris and other foreign impurities; if any are present, sift the sawdust and remove large debris manually

Sifting sawdust

Types of sawdust

Sawdust is particles of processed wood that are formed during the sawing process. In appearance they resemble dust. There are also wood wastes such as shavings. They are formed as a result of drilling or planing. The chips are large in size, which is the main difference. The length can vary from 30 to 50 mm.

Sawdust is divided into different fractions, which differ in size. The length depends on the characteristics of the technological process and the equipment used. The size can vary from 5 to 30 mm.

To insulate the ceiling of a house, it is better to choose the middle fraction. Large chips have less thermal insulation properties, and material that is too small is more difficult to work with. When insulating, elements scatter, generate dust, and become clogged in the respiratory tract.

Sawdust produced in chamber-drying carpentry production has good properties. This material does not need to be dried additionally, which increases the service life of the insulation. If waste was generated as a result of processing wood with natural moisture, then it will have to be dried before use. Sawdust is placed under the canopy. It is forbidden to cover them with polyethylene, as they will rot and begin to rot.

It is recommended to choose shavings from deciduous wood for the ceiling in the bathhouse, and from coniferous wood for the house. They contain resin, which increases resistance to external influences. In addition, this material is less susceptible to damage by bugs and insects.

To insulate the ceiling, you should take shavings that have lain for 6-12 months. During this time, sugar comes out of the particles, which contributes to the development of rot. If you keep sawdust for more than a year, they can also begin to rot.

For thermal insulation, you should take clean sawdust, free of debris and foreign inclusions. If necessary, the material is sifted through a construction sieve.

It is recommended to pre-treat sawdust with an antiseptic or fire retardant solution. After drying, you can mix the insulation with a 10% lime solution and copper sulfate (or borax).

Preparatory work

How to insulate a ceiling with sawdust in a private house? Whatever method is chosen, preliminary preparation of the wooden base is required. Initially, the elements on the ceiling are processed. As a rule, during construction they use material that has already undergone appropriate processing. However, in some cases this procedure is skipped. Then you need to do it yourself.

The treatment is carried out with special protective compounds. It is carried out in several stages, since comprehensive protection is required. Initially, wooden parts are coated with antiseptic compounds designed to protect against rotting and insect damage. Next, fire-bioprotective agents are used, which increase the material’s resistance to fire and exposure to elevated temperatures. The next stage is treatment with water repellents. They prevent previously applied compounds from being washed out of the wood structure, help remove excess moisture from the material, and protect against water penetration.

For processing, it is recommended to choose drugs from the same brand. Some manufacturers offer products that perform several functions at once, for example, protect against fire and high temperatures, prevent rotting and insect damage. The bathhouse must be treated with special products that are resistant to high humidity and high temperature.

After processing and drying of wooden structures and ceilings, the substrate is laid.

Initially, all gaps and cracks should be sealed. To do this, use polyurethane foam and acrylic sealant. Large cracks are treated with foam. Gaps and joints are sealed with sealant. It is allowed to use bitumen mastic, but not for finishing the ceiling of a bathhouse. This is due to the low resistance of the material to high temperatures.

You need to seal not only the holes in the wooden ceiling, but also in the roof itself. This increases the thermal insulation properties and eliminates the impact of external factors on the internal elements of the roof.

After drying the sealant and foam and removing excess material, the substrate is laid. It is necessary to protect the interior space of a private house from the penetration of dust from sawdust, and serves as a vapor barrier between the ceiling and sawdust insulation. The substrate must be vapor-permeable, since warm air and steam rise up. If it does not pass through the ceiling and further into the space under the roof, condensation will form. This will lead to gradual rotting, the formation of mold and fungi.

An excellent and inexpensive option is to lay cardboard. It can be any type of material. The main condition is that the cardboard must be dry. The sheets are laid directly on the ceiling, with an overlap of 15-20 cm on each other. If the cardboard is thin, then it should be placed in 2-3 layers. The joints are fastened with staples. The perimeter of the junction of cardboard and walls is treated with polyurethane foam or sealant.

PVC film is often used as a backing. It is also laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm, and additionally secured with staples using a stapler. The edges of the film around the perimeter should extend onto the walls/roof by 10-15 cm.

Dry installation of insulation

After the preparatory work, you can begin laying dry insulation. It is recommended to pour the shavings in 2 layers. To create the first, sawdust of a large fraction is used, for the second - a small fraction. This device prevents dust from entering the house and provides good thermal insulation.

The first layer of the coarse fraction is laid 10-15 cm thick, then thoroughly compacted. A layer of fine sawdust of the same thickness is placed on top, which is also compacted. The better the insulation is rolled, the better it will retain heat in the house. For greater shrinkage, it is allowed to slightly moisten the sawdust. With a thickness of 20-30 cm, the insulating layer provides reliable thermal insulation.

It is recommended to lay clay, sand, and slag on top of the layer of shavings. This powder improves thermal insulation properties and provides additional protection against mold, fungi and insects.

What is the reason for the popularity of the method?

Close attention has always been paid to home insulation. The modern market offers a wide range of thermal insulation materials

All insulation materials have their pros and cons. Despite this, insulating the ceiling with sawdust in private homes still remains relevant. What is this connected with? Why do we still insulate houses using this material?

Firstly, the method is quite effective, as proven by many years of using sawdust. And numerous positive reviews confirm this. Secondly, the material retains its properties for a long time. Thirdly, insulating the ceiling with sawdust will be very cheap. Compared to all modern insulation materials, wood shavings are several times cheaper. This factor is especially preferable for consumers. Moreover, some construction companies give away the material completely free of charge or offer it at a purely symbolic price. And fourthly, this method is easy to install. Even a person without experience will be able to cope with the work with his own hands.

The nuances of ceiling insulation using clay

Clay is a building material that is considered environmentally friendly due to its natural origin. It is easy to mix with water until smooth, and as it dries, the clay becomes hard and retains heat excellently. It is often used to insulate floors in small rooms.

It is quite difficult to use it for insulation in its pure form, since it creates a significant load on the ceiling, and the drying process takes quite a long time. And if you reduce the thickness of the layer, then the necessary effect of the thermos is lost. To build an insulating “pie,” various additives, such as straw, sawdust and other natural ingredients, are mixed into the clay solution. If all proportions are correctly observed, the effect of such insulation can surpass the performance of many more modern materials. It is strongly recommended to use a concrete mixer when mixing, since the mixing process is very labor-intensive.

Expert opinion

Konstantin Alexandrovich

The recommended application layer is from 30 centimeters. This layer takes a long time to dry. Because of this, it is better to carry out insulation work with clay in the summer, since the wet composition does not have the ability to retain heat.

Pros and cons of clay insulation

The popularity of clay insulation is due to its following properties:

The most affordable price. There is simply no other insulation material that can compare with clay in terms of cheapness. You can dig up and deliver the material yourself.
Clay is not able to burn and maintain combustion, and therefore prevents the spread of fire. It is allowed to be used even in the area where chimneys are laid.
The material is not attacked by harmful insects, rats and mice, and also does not mold.
Adding low-weight fillers to the solution significantly reduces the mass of the original raw material. This allows you to avoid creating excess load on the building’s floors and its walls.
One of the most important advantages of the material is its high environmental friendliness and safety.
Simple insulation technology allows you to complete all the work independently.
Clay has a positive effect on the condition of the wooden parts of house floors and allows them to maintain high performance characteristics for a long time.
It is possible to reuse the dried clay mixture. To do this, you just need to fill it with water. Thus, the generation of waste during work is practically eliminated.
Soaking with water gives the clay special plasticity, which allows the material to reliably isolate all the recesses and cracks present on the insulated surface, regardless of its configuration.
There is no need to install wooden flooring on the attic floor, since the dried clay solution itself is highly durable and hard.

Despite the impressive list of advantages, modern materials for thermal insulation have significantly displaced natural materials.

This is due to the fact that along with the advantages there are also noticeable disadvantages:

This method cannot be called the most effective. Professionals advise using clay insulation in combination with a modern type of basic insulation.
It is necessary to strictly adhere to clearly defined proportions when mixing the clay solution. Otherwise, its structure will be too crumbly and the insulator will not cope with its functions.
The mass of the clay mixture turns out to be quite significant even in combination with lightweight components, such as sawdust. This fact must be taken into account so as not to overload the floors of the building.

Detailed installation diagram of sawdust with clay

If you make a mixture that consists of clay and sawdust, you will get an excellent material with waterproofing and thermal insulation properties.

It is well suited for insulating the walls of a house built in any region.

This mixture will keep the house warm in severe frost and will not allow the room to warm up during the summer heat.

Insulating walls using sawdust-clay material is not as simple as it might seem at first glance.

Therefore, during the work process, you must strictly adhere to the following recommendations:

When preparing the mixture, you must adhere to the exact quantitative ratios of the ingredients.
The finished mixture must be applied to the walls at a certain thickness. This is the only way you can achieve maximum effect.
For thermal insulation of walls, you need to make slabs from clay and small sawdust.

Lathing for insulation

A mixture of clay and sawdust can be made and laid in several ways; we will consider one option, that is, laying the wet substance on a sheathing pre-fixed to the wall.

What proportions must be maintained to make the mixture plastic?

IMPORTANT!

You need to take a bucket of clay, diluted to a thick sour cream, and 2/3 of a bucket of sawdust. The clay should be filled with water in a 1:1 ratio. It should swell for at least a day. Then it needs to be mixed until uniform. It's best if you soak all the clay at once. It will not deteriorate if left in water for a long time.

Clay diluted with water should be mixed with sawdust in a shallow metal container. You can use a concrete mixer to mix the composition. The finished composition must be applied to the walls.

You can also insulate the walls with such a mixture by pouring it into the formwork attached to the frame wall. If you fix shingles on the wall, then you can spread the clay in a layer of no more than 30mm.

After the sawdust-clay layer has dried, it needs to be leveled with cement-sand mortar and only then plastered.

Manufacturing and laying of slabs

Insulation for the ceiling in a bathhouse: which material is best suited

Previously, it was customary to use natural raw materials such as moss, clay, sawdust, straw or earth.

Now people have begun to use the most effective coatings. They make all the work easier, even if you are not a professional builder. For example, it is widely used:

basalt wool;
expanded clay;
penoizol;
ecowool and others.

You can also use polystyrene foam and glass wool. But when heated, the former emits harmful gases and can ignite. A good protective suit is recommended for working with fiberglass.

The question is whether or not to insulate the entire building only inside or on both sides. There are many opinions on this matter, but the truth is in the middle. There are many additional factors you need to know:

this is a Russian bath or sauna;
what material is the bathhouse built from?
what kind of stove does it cost?

To keep the steam inside and not escape outside, you need to achieve a “thermos” effect. Insulation must be both inside and outside the building. To achieve this effect, you will need insulation for the ceiling in the bathhouse. There are different options:

waterproofing film;
expanded clay;
mineral wool or others.

Insulation with sawdust: pros and cons

Every year more and more new generation insulation materials appear on sale. The biggest drawback of such high-tech products is the cost of thermal insulation material. At the same time, it is unknown how they will behave in a couple of decades. Therefore, the old ancient method - using sawdust as insulation - remains relevant to this day.

The main advantages of chip insulation are:

environmental friendliness. The raw materials are completely harmless to a person living in a building insulated with wood waste. Since the insulation does not emit any toxic substances. Therefore, even allergy sufferers feel comfortable in such houses;
low cost. If there is a sawmill or any woodworking enterprise nearby, you can obtain production waste completely free of charge. Costs will be spent only on cargo transportation;
reliability. This has already been mentioned above, but the durability of insulation made from wood chips is its undoubted advantage. Nowadays various antiseptics are added, which help protect the insulating layer from insects, thereby extending the life of the insulation;
versatility. Raw materials can be used to insulate the entire structure - from the floors to the roof. The installation process is simple, so you can do it yourself. Due to the fact that sawdust has a fine fraction, raw materials can be poured into even the most inaccessible places without the use of special devices and tools.

The material has few disadvantages, but it is often because of them that many refuse to use sawdust as insulation:

wood waste has a high flammability class. That’s why today they are increasingly being mixed with non-flammable substances and additionally treated with fire retardants;
the use of loose wood particles leads to rodents and insects settling in the “fills”. Those who have encountered a similar situation are recommended to add tobacco or slaked lime to the insulation;
If you use only sawdust as thermal protection for households, over time they will cake and voids will form. Therefore, special binding components are added that eliminate this drawback.

Having considered all the pros and cons of the material, we can conclude that sawdust-based thermal insulation is an excellent alternative to many modern insulation materials.

Advantages and disadvantages

Positive aspects of ceiling insulation with sawdust:

Ecological purity of sawdust insulation. Clay, cement and lime are completely natural materials and do not emit harmful substances. When kneading at home, the consumer is not interested in adding chemical additives to the mass for insulation.
Excellent thermal insulation characteristics of the resulting material. Wood has very low thermal conductivity; this quality is transferred to sawdust as insulation.
It is relatively easy to insulate the ceiling with sawdust. Wood waste has a low volumetric weight and will not add load to load-bearing walls and foundations.
A layer of clay in the construction of private houses is very often used as a water barrier. When the attic roof leaks, moisture will saturate the clay, it will absorb it and will not transfer it to the base. Alternating periods of wetting and drying ensure that moisture never reaches the inner surface of the ceiling.
When insulating the attic floor with sawdust, you can add additional layers of screed on top of it or lay a plank floor. The attic can be used and walked on such a foundation.

Disadvantages of sawdust as insulation:

The ecological purity of the material can attract various rodents and insects to live in the sawdust mass. To repel them, sawdust is mixed with a small amount of lime and gypsum, which makes it difficult or impossible to make passages through the thickness of the insulation.
Wood shavings and sawdust are hydrophobic materials and can become saturated with moisture from condensation from a room located below the ceiling. This drawback can be corrected by installing a vapor barrier layer directly over the ceiling before insulating it with sawdust.
Wood waste is susceptible to combustion, creating a high risk of fire in the attic. Sawdust mixed and hardened in cement and clay is not a flammable material.
The logical conclusion is that using sawdust in bulk, without mixing with other natural binders, is not considered advisable.

Installation of internal insulation of a concrete ceiling

It is much easier to install thermal insulation for concrete floors from the attic side - it will be quite convenient to carry out each stage of the work. However, this is not always possible, so you have to insulate the ceiling in the house from the inside, forming a frame for thermal insulation materials under the ceiling.

For installation you need to prepare the following set of tools in advance:

Hammer or drill (for drilling holes in the ceiling);
Screwdriver and drill set;
Building level;
Cord and marker for marking.

Also, even before insulating the ceiling, you need to purchase all the building materials:

A sufficient number of metal profiles for drywall (a good alternative would be wooden blocks of square section 40x40 mm);
Hangers for profiles;
Fastening elements (crabs are best suited for suspended ceilings);
Thermal insulation material (foam boards or mineral wool, or roll insulation);
Sheets for external cladding of the frame (plasterboard or plywood);
Vapor barrier film.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside in a private house is as follows:

First you need to apply markings. In order for the structure to ultimately be in its place, the markings must take into account the characteristics of the frame and the room. The frame itself consists of transverse and longitudinal posts, which are attached to each other using “crabs” and held on the ceiling by suspensions.
To simplify the work, it is worth mounting the longitudinal posts in such a way that the pitch between them coincides with the width of the selected insulation. However, an excessive increase in pitch (over 80 cm) will also not lead to anything good - as a result, the rigidity of the structure will be insufficient.
The marking itself is applied to all the walls along which the frame will be installed. The markings are applied in accordance with the cord, which is pulled between the corners and checked for alignment with a level. Having marked the walls, you need to go to the ceiling and make all the necessary marks on it.
Now you need to mount the profiles. First of all, a guide metal profile is installed, which must be positioned in accordance with the markings on the walls.
The next step is to install the hangers. These elements are usually located on the ceiling in increments of about 80-90 cm. Having decided on the mounting points, you need to drill the required number of holes in the ceiling.
Now it’s time to form the frame by installing the longitudinal and transverse posts. Of course, when installing these profiles you need to follow the markings.
The selected insulation is installed into the assembled frame. To keep it in place, you need to bend the edges of the hangers - they will ensure the fixation of the material during installation.
Next you need to install a vapor barrier layer. You need to work with the film very carefully - it has a fragile structure and is very easy to damage with anything sharp. The vapor barrier film is carefully stretched between the frame posts and secured with double-sided tape.
The last stage is covering the frame. Sheathing sheets must be fastened in such a way that there is a minimum gap between them. The optimal location of the sheets is perpendicular to the guides. The sheets are connected to each other in the middle of the profile. For fixation, self-tapping screws are used, the heads of which need to be slightly recessed into the thickness of the material. The distance between the screws for reliable fastening should be about 30 cm, and about 3-4 cm should be retreated from the corners of the sheet.

How to insulate a ceiling with prepared sawdust

Before applying a solution mixed according to a particular recipe, a number of preparatory work should be performed. The most important of them is vapor barrier. The following options are popular:

Modern semi-permeable membrane films. They are laid on the boards of the rough ceiling, the canvases are fastened together with double-sided tape.
Glassine or roofing felt. It is laid overlapping, secured with tape or glued with mastic.
Clay-sand screed. Prepare a thick solution of clay and sand in a ratio of one to four, apply it in a thin layer on the boards, then level it. After the screed has dried, an insulating solution can be applied to it.

General insulation scheme

High-quality vapor barrier will help to avoid waterlogging and wetting of the insulating layer.

The sequence of actions when applying a clay-based solution is as follows:

Perform a vapor barrier using one of the methods listed above. Prepare the solution according to recipe No. 2

Particular attention should be paid to the absence of lumps before adding sawdust. If you cannot grind and stir them, you will have to strain the solution

Cover the surface of the ceiling with an even layer of the prepared solution.

Layer thickness 10-15 cm. Allow to dry. The drying time depends on the temperature and humidity. It is better to apply the solution in early summer, before a period of hot and dry weather. If the building is located in a region with a cold climate, a second layer of insulating solution is applied. After drying, cover the insulation with a layer of waterproofing. Attach film or roofing felt to the beams.

Clay mixture applied

The dried mixture is a strong porous mass. You can even walk on it.

Such solutions, which are called sawdust concrete, have a high density and are well suited for durable floors that can support their weight. The procedure is as follows:

Perform a vapor barrier using one of the methods listed above.
Prepare the solution in accordance with recipe No. 1.
Apply a layer of 20-25 cm.
Let it dry.
Perform waterproofing.

Applied cement mixture

Cement-based compositions dry many times faster than clay ones. It can be applied in wet weather and at low positive temperatures.

Sometimes cement is replaced with lime. A completely lime mortar has less strength after setting. It is used if you plan to lay floors on top of insulation, and it will not be subject to loads.

We insulate the bathhouse

When insulating the ceiling of bathhouses, there are several nuances. The baths are different:

high humidity;
large temperature changes.

Due to high temperatures, especially above the steam room, special requirements are placed on the vapor barrier material. Ruberoid or conventional polymer membranes are not suitable. When heated, they may melt or release harmful substances. A clay screed or specially designed heat-resistant vapor barrier materials, covered on one side with foil, should be used.

Changes in temperature and humidity can also lead to cracking of the insulating layer. To avoid this, add rock salt to the solution at the rate of 6-12 tablespoons per 10 liters of water.

Ceiling insulation

When the thickness reaches 10-12 cm, the work can be considered complete. In summer and ancillary non-residential premises, a five-centimeter thickness of insulation is sufficient. Make sure there are no microcracks.

The design of some houses is such that the construction of formwork is not required to insulate the ceiling: its functions are performed by closely spaced ceiling beams. In this case, the voids between them are filled with clay and sawdust.

To form and install insulation you should have on hand:

boards in the required quantity;
nails and hammer;
putty knife;
tape or stapler;
waterproofing film;
cardboard (used in ceiling insulation).

Types and nuances of vapor barrier

Regardless of the type of bathhouse chosen - a sauna or a wood-burning Russian bathhouse - the room will be constantly exposed to high humidity and temperature. Installing waterproofing in the ceiling area will help maintain a healthy microclimate in the room and will also minimize the likelihood of moisture condensation. If polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam is used as insulation, you can skip this step, since such materials are moisture resistant.

Types of vapor barrier

The simplest and most obvious option is to use film. Budget materials can be either rough or smooth; more expensive ones include reinforcement.

Membrane material. Its woven surface retains moisture and eliminates the formation of condensation.
Foil is one of the best options for use in a bathhouse. The material not only provides a vapor barrier, but is also an excellent thermal insulator.
Izospan is a combined material with high vapor barrier properties. Enjoys increased popularity.

How to properly install a vapor barrier?

First of all, you need to decide on the choice of the base material, and then proceed with the installation of the vapor barrier layer of the bath ceiling. A correctly installed ceiling of a steam room looks like a layer cake, with the following layers:

The top finishing layer is often linden lining.
The lathing, which serves as a support for the finishing, also serves as an additional ventilation duct.
Vapor barrier laid over the entire area of the ceiling and extending onto the surface of the walls.
The ceiling itself and the logs are made of wood.
Vapor barrier film.
Insulating material of the selected type - clay with sawdust, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, expanded clay, etc. The minimum layer is 10 centimeters.
If the attic is needed for storing household items. equipment, installing flooring.
In the case when the attic space is not used, it is enough to simply cover the insulating material with film. This is necessary in order to protect the insulator from possible heat loss, as well as accidental ingress of moisture and condensation.

Cement with sawdust

Cement with sawdust is heavier. The disadvantages are that such a layer is susceptible to getting wet and will not be able to retain water. Leveling the cement-sawdust screed is carried out according to construction rules.

Since cement provides additional strength, it is possible to use a layer of insulation as a base for further finishing of the attic floor.

The ratio of the solution in this case is 1:2:6 (cement, sand, sawdust). This material is called sawdust concrete. First, sand and cement are mixed, then sawdust is mixed in, then water is added. To facilitate and speed up the work, it is possible to use concrete mixers.

Wall pie device

One of the most important factors when building a house is the correct design of the walls. It doesn’t matter whether you carry out all the construction work yourself, or order a ready-made option, in any case, you must know the correct composition of the “pie” of a frame house.

Layers of the correct “pie” of the wall:

Frame made of wooden beams.
There should be insulation between the racks.
Fiberboard (OSB).
Horizontal sheathing.
Insulation.
Multifunctional membrane.
Vertical lathing.
Finishing.
Vapor barrier.
Internal lining.

If you use sawdust as wall insulation, you need to make a lathing.

First of all, you need to mount the frame. Then, at a certain distance, you need to attach wooden slats to the wall and lay the sheathing on them.

Economical thermal insulation

The cost of building your own home (not to mention purchasing a plot for it) can put a dent in almost any budget. Therefore, in private construction, preference is often given to more economical options for materials.

The cost of modern insulation makes you think about how to save on this expense item when building a house. The simplest sawdust can be used for thermal insulation of a house, while the cost of this material will be minimal. You can purchase them at a very low price at any sawmill.

It is necessary to treat them with special compounds that can prevent this. In addition, it is also necessary to ensure their protection from rodents and fire. You can mix sawdust with clay, lime or cement. As a result, you will have insulation ready for use. It can be used to insulate roofs, floors and walls.