Metal wood-burning stove for heating a house and cottage: drawings and manufacturing

A homemade metal stove is perfect for heating a greenhouse, garage, work space, and even a living room. To assemble the unit in question, you can use sheets of metal, barrels, pipes and even fire extinguishers of a suitable size. The procedure for making the stove remains the same. Differences are present only in the initial stages of corps preparation.

DIY metal stove

Making a bath unit

One of the best options for a heating device for a bath is a metal stove made of sheet steel, lined with brick.
Such a homemade sauna stove is not mobile, but it is fireproof, which means it can be installed in a residential building and even in a wooden sauna building. To build it, you will need the following tools:

welding equipment;
Bulgarian;
diodes 3-4 millimeters.

You also need to have sheets of iron 2–3 millimeters thick, and reinforcement 8–10 millimeters.

An important point is that when arranging such a stove, it is necessary to choose the correct cross-section for the chimney, since the draft force depends on this, which is also influenced by weather conditions: the warmer and more humid the air, the weaker it is.

If the chimney is not wide enough, gases and air will begin to mix before they have time to escape. This creates a smoke plug. If the diameter of the pipe is too large, then the gases in it will move too slowly, and the surface of the inner walls will quickly become clogged.

Do-it-yourself iron sauna stoves are built like this:

First of all, the foundation is laid out. For it, a wooden formwork 20 centimeters high is built so that a square measuring 1x1 meter is formed.
The reinforcement is mounted in one layer, making a mesh of rods with cells measuring 20x20 centimeters. It is necessary that the reinforcement does not touch the ground, so it is supported on pre-installed pegs and tied in weight.
Prepare a cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1:3. For it, take 1 part of cement no lower than grade M400 and 3 parts of fine river sand. To add strength, some crushed stone is added to the mixture.
The solution is poured into the formwork, covered with polyethylene film and left to dry for 4 weeks. Once a day, the concrete must be sprayed with cold water and covered again, otherwise it will begin to crack.
Next, you need to take the rear wheel rim and weld all the holes on it, leaving only the central one.
The convex top is cut off from the second rim, the first one is inserted into it and welded. The main thing is to create a tight connection, because there will be hot liquid inside.
On the inside of the second rim, at an equal distance from one another, reinforcement is welded on three sides. It needs to rest against the pipe to give the structure rigidity.
A round 25 mm hole is created at the bottom of the first rim and a pipe of the appropriate cross-section is welded to it. A faucet is screwed into it to drain water.
Next, exact copies of the two rims are made. A copy of the second of them is placed on the pipe, the copy of the first rim is turned over and welded to the end of the pipe. A second copy of the second rim is attached to the top and reinforced with reinforcement for rigidity.
When the foundation mortar has hardened, the formwork is removed and bricks are laid using a clay-based mixture.
The location of the furnace is completely covered with bricks to protect against fire.
The base is made of brick, and from the second row they begin to lay out an ash pit with a blower. By means of it, ash is removed and thereby ensures the flow of air inside, which helps the appearance of good draft. The length of the ash chamber should be less than that of the firebox.
Install the blower door, line it with bricks and lay another row. A grate is placed on the ash pit shaft.
After the grate, two rows of bricks are laid out, leaving space for the firebox door. Two more rows are created on top.
The masonry is allowed to dry for 2 weeks, ensuring air circulation. Then the stove needs to be heated with wood chips for 1.5 - 2 hours.
The finished pipe is installed on the brick structure. There is a heater and a container for hot water on it.
The weight and dimensions of the stove are quite large, so it is better to divide it into its component parts and assemble it inside the bathhouse on site.
The top of the chimney is reinforced with reinforcement rods, welding one end to the pipe and resting the other against the wall. To attach it to the wall, use a metal plate or a steel angle.

Cons of metal devices

Despite all the advantages, metal stoves for the home also have some disadvantages. These include:

Frequent loading required. Fuel must be loaded after a certain period of time;
High heating temperature. The walls, ceiling, and floor at the installation site must be equipped with heat-resistant screens.

One of the disadvantages of metal stoves for the home is that they consume a lot of wood for heating.
From the above it follows that metal stoves for the home are an excellent solution when it is necessary to heat residential or non-residential premises. In addition to their main function, they can be used for cooking.

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Models and manufacturers

Selecting a quality product is a troublesome and difficult task. You can buy an inexpensive long-burning wood stove for heating and use it with pleasure for decades

It is important to clearly understand what you need and why, accurately calculate the power of the installation, find out its autonomy and other technical features. Then the purchase will 100% please you and bring maximum benefit

Below are the most popular types of units from leading industry manufacturers.

Buleryan

Heaters with a colorful name originate from distant Canada. They are distinguished by reliability and high heat dissipation. They are a cylindrical steel firebox with a wall thickness of 6 mm. The loading chamber door is located on the end side, which simplifies the loading of firewood. There are pipes along the body for convection of warm air masses.

Structurally, the device is divided into two parts; fuel briquettes are loaded into the first half, and the released pyrolysis gas mixture is burned in the second. The hole for connecting the smoker is on the side opposite the loading flap.

Butakov furnaces

Such heat generators are intended not only for heating residential buildings in severe frosts, but also for heating baths.

There are several varieties of this equipment that differ in performance characteristics. The model with the loud name “Student” has a power reserve of 9 kW with a weight of 70 kg and provides excellent heating of up to 150 cubic meters of space. The most powerful device is named “Akademik” - with a mass of 300 kg, it perfectly heats rooms up to 1200 m3. Intermediate lines have also been developed - “Associate Professor”, “Engineer” and “Professor”, which are capable of heating buildings with a volume of 250 to 1 thousand m3.

Breneran

A long-burning wood-burning stove from a domestic manufacturer is an improved analogue of Canadian equipment with a similar name. It is manufactured on modern high-tech production lines, in accordance with all existing international quality and safety standards. The model range is referred to by the abbreviation AOT with a numerical serial number. The lower the index, the lower the weight of the unit and its functionality. The spatial volume that it can heat directly depends on the power of the device. Thus, a 6 kW installation copes with heating an area of 56 m2, and a 35 kW installation can warm up to 260 m2.

Some models are equipped with outlets with a water circuit connection and beautiful doors made of fireproof glass. The disadvantage of "Breneran" is the high probability of moisture getting into the room where the stove is located. This is due to insufficient tightness of the chimney connecting unit.

Teplodar

An excellent quality stove from a Russian manufacturer is designed for heating a home in our harsh winters. Devices from this brand are distinguished by their compact size, excellent efficiency and relatively low weight.

The line includes many different format variations:

“Vertical” is a heater equipped with a surface for cooking food.
“Matrix-200” is capable of heating rooms up to 200 m2.
"Siberia" - warms up a much smaller space, but much faster than its analogues.

Vesuvius

A good, compact, Russian-made installation is intended for a summer house, garage, bathhouse, and other outbuildings and residential buildings. The heat exchanger is selected based on the technical parameters of the heated premises.

Termofor

The design development of the domestic company includes several products with very colorful names. Compactness and high performance with economical fuel consumption make the device popular among the population. Depending on the type, the unit is capable of heating a space with a volume of 55 to 255 m3.

Ermak

The reliable installation features miniature dimensions, light weight, and excellent heat output. The boilers have proven themselves well and can be installed in both commercial and residential buildings.

Bakhta

This is a heating and cooking stove-fireplace made of durable and heat-resistant cast iron of the ChH-1 brand. The high quality of the heating device, versatility, wear resistance and visual appeal are its main advantages.

Famous manufacturers

The Russian market offers a large selection of metal, cast iron and stainless steel stoves. Products from the following foreign manufacturers are in great demand:

Trend.
Magnum.
Thorma.
Alma Mons.
Konig Feuer.
Efel.
Ferlux.
Olimp.

The Harmony model from the Belgian manufacturer Efel has proven itself well. It is equipped with a hob and has enough power to heat a large house. The time interval between fuel loadings is about ten hours.

There are many models and domestic manufacturers:

Cinderella stove Termofor

Termofor;
Ligov;
Teplodar;
Eco fireplace;
Ermak.

Domestic models come in various types, sizes and shapes. Some can be transported independently and moved from one place to another. Others are permanently installed and have a high mass. Many of the models are equipped with hobs, ovens and transparent doors made of heat-resistant glass.

Long-burning potbelly stove

The potbelly stove has become a real symbol of Russia since the times of the Revolution and Civil War.
This is the name given to the simplest iron stove of a cylindrical or cubic shape. Its advantage was that the smoke channel - an ordinary iron pipe - could be taken out anywhere - through a wall or roof, into a window.

Taking the simplicity and practicality of a potbelly stove, you can make a small stove that will embody some simple ideas that significantly increase its efficiency, safety and environmental friendliness.

Basic scheme

The classic potbelly stove has a cylindrical design. However, it is difficult to do this when making it yourself, so you need to take a cube or parallelepiped as a basis.

Contains the following structural elements:

Firebox. This is the chamber in which fuel combustion occurs, most often wood. The walls and bottom of the firebox must be thick, since they bear the main temperature load. There is a door in the front for storing firewood in the firebox; if desired, it can even be equipped with heat-resistant glass.
Ash pit (ash pan). The compartment under the firebox is separated from it by a grate. The ash pan is also equipped with a door, only of a smaller size. It is used to remove ash and ash. which fall through the grate from burnt firewood. But this is not the only point of the ash pan - air is sucked in through the ash door and passes through the fuel layer from below, ensuring the best combustion.
Smoke channel. To arrange it, a round hole is cut out in the upper part of the stove, a piece of steel pipe is inserted into it and scalded. In the future, you can attach other sections of the pipe here or use a factory sandwich chimney with special locks.

Expert opinion Dmitry Konstantinovich Levin

Some manufacturers of homemade stoves believe that the design with a blower and grate is not suitable for a sauna stove - it creates too much draft, which prevents complete combustion of the wood. Instead, it is proposed to lay the firewood directly on the bottom of the stove, and ensure air flow by drilling several round holes in the lower part of the combustion door and equipping them with a sliding damper.

How to make a door

The door is made of a thick sheet of metal. For fastening, you can use store-bought factory hinges or make your own. To seal the fit, an asbestos thread is used - it is wedged in a groove cut by a grinder.

If there is a suitable sheet of heat-resistant glass, it is inserted as follows: cut a window in the door and grind the cut area. Then they lay the glass, lay asbestos fiber around the perimeter, invisibly from the outside of the part, after which, using small steel tongues, I make tacks on each side.

The turning handle of the latch is easiest to make from the outside.

Homemade secondary gas afterburning system

The main disadvantage of a potbelly stove is its low efficiency. A stream of air passes quickly and strongly through the entire oven, carrying with it not only unburned food, but also heat. As a result, the case does not warm up sufficiently and gives off less heat. To solve this problem, a simple but ingenious modification was invented.

By placing two steel sheets above the firebox, the smoke passage channel can be significantly increased the length of the path that burnt gases travel before exiting through the chimney opening:

The first horizontal sheet is welded directly above the firebox so that a channel remains for the passage of gases in the rear part of the stove.
The next sheet is cooked higher, offset so that the passage is now at the front of the oven. It turns out that smoke, gases and heat, once in this labyrinth, snake through it all the way to the chimney. Along the way, they give off all the accumulated heat to the sheets, side walls and top plate of the oven.

If you drill several holes from the bottom from the back and cover them with a screen made of steel sheet, then at the top point, when fresh air, but already heated by the screen wall, meets unburned gases, the process of afterburning secondary gases will take place in the channel, which will lead to a significant increase in efficiency ovens.

Types of structures

They differ in structure and operating principles. Let's look at each type in more detail.

Open

The stones are laid on top of the stove structure and are not covered with anything. Due to this, the steam room warms up faster, reaching temperatures of up to 100 degrees. But the humidity in the room is low, so the heat turns out dry.

The product consists of three parts:

fireboxes;
compartments for stones;
containers with water.

There should be few stones, otherwise the top layer will not warm up well and the steam room will not be warm enough.

To increase the level of humidity and the release of water vapor, the hot stones are simply watered. One or two ladles will be enough - this will give up to 15% humidity.

To increase the level of fire safety and reduce the risk of burns, it is recommended to lay fire-resistant bricks around the walls of the furnace or make a partition made of wood.

To heat a sauna, it is important that as much of the stove area as possible is in contact with the air space. This contributes to faster heating of the air in the steam room

Closed (lined with brick or stone)

If wood fuel is chosen for heating, you will have to prepare large reserves in advance. Such a stove takes a long time to reach the desired temperature, but, having reached the desired level, gives good heat transfer and retains heat for a long time.

Closed structures are great for large baths, where there is not only a steam room, a wash room, a dressing room, but also a relaxation room.

One of the advantages is closed stones. Therefore, there is no risk of getting burned.

In factory economical models, the stove has a double casing with a gap for air exchange between the walls.

Combined

For most manufacturers, the design consists of a high box with gratings and double valves (performs the function of a firebox). A chimney pipe emerges from the neck of the box. Stones are placed in the neck here.

There are devices available for sale with combined fuel types:

gas-wood;
electric wood-burning.

They do not need to be constantly monitored. Simply adjust to the desired temperature.

By design they are divided into 3 types:

Monoblock. With heat exchanger, combustion chamber. Gas burner of a fixed type, covered with a steel sheet.
Paired. They have two separate combustion chambers for wood and gas.
Reconfigurable. Universal device. Can be modified for each fuel.

The first two types do not need to be reconfigured, since you can switch from one type of fuel to another.

Gas is used as main gas or liquefied in cylinders.

The electric-wood-burning design allows you to successfully heat the bathhouse using electricity or wood (optional). Moreover, firewood is considered the main raw material. When they burn out and the temperature drops, the electric heater automatically starts working. There are two heating elements on the sides of the product. Such stoves operate on a 220 W network, with a three-phase voltage of 380 V.

The owners can choose which fuel to heat the bathhouse with. But such designs are many times more expensive than simple wood-burning stoves.

Frequently asked questions

Selecting and operating metal furnaces is a complex undertaking. Inexperienced people have a lot of similar questions. Let's answer the most common ones:

Which type of fuel is more economical?

It is generally accepted that maximum savings can be achieved with gas furnaces. Other designs are more consumable, especially electric ovens.

How to avoid burns from the stove body in a small room?

There are different types of fencing. Some owners line the stove with bricks, increasing the uniformity of heating and the cooling time. The choice of the appropriate option depends on the personal preferences of the owner.

What size heater is needed so that you can safely provide steam in a Russian bath?

The larger the heater, the better. It is believed that in a Russian bath you can use stoves with a heater of 100 kg or more. However, here it is necessary to take into account the design features and shape of the stove itself.

Which stoves are more convenient, with a long or short fuel tunnel?

It is generally accepted that furnaces with a long tunnel are most convenient. However, in practice, everything depends on the type of fuel and the specifics of its use.

Is it necessary to install protective fire barriers for a metal stove?

It all depends on the design features. Some models can be installed without fire protection elements. However, in this matter you should consult with a software inspector, who will inspect the stove and give a competent recommendation.

How wood stoves work

One of the features of heating devices is a secondary combustion chamber, which is characterized by slow combustion of fuel. Simply put, the logs in the firebox do not burn, but smolder. This effect is achieved by adjusting the amount of air entering the fuel chamber.

The combustion chamber is divided into two compartments. When wood is smoldering, unburnt combustible gas enters the second compartment of the chamber, where additional air is supplied from the injection pipes, after which the gas burns out completely, and the wood remains to smolder further.

Unburned gas from the main combustion chamber enters the additional combustion chamber, where, after mixing with an additional portion of air, it ignites, releasing additional thermal energy

Among the advantages of the system, it is worth noting: an increase in the operating life of the devices, greater efficiency - the stove operates for 8-9 hours on one load of firewood.

There are a few more disadvantages: the system only works on dry wood, the combustion mode will have to be constantly adjusted, which is somewhat inconvenient. It is also necessary to constantly monitor the cleanliness of the chimney and periodically clean it.

Means for manufacturing and the process itself

If you want to make a thematic unit, you will have to look at a lot of photos of metal stoves made by yourself, then draw up a drawing and arm yourself with:

Welding equipment with electrodes;
Sheet metal or “donor” structures;
Steel corners;
Grinder with cutting wheel;
Large and medium hammers;
Reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm;
Measuring tools - tape measure, corner;
Use a pencil or sharp nail to draw lines.

When all the tools are collected, you can proceed directly to the event:

Cutting a pipe and 5 rectangles using a grinder;
Butt welding of steel or cast iron sheets with a welding machine;
Welding the bottom to the walls, followed by checking the evenness of the finished structure;
Marking on the walls of the barrel the places where the firebox, ash pan, and chimney will be located;
Welding the corners to the “barrel” at a level of 10 cm from its bottom (this is necessary for installing the grate);
Making grate bars from scraps that can be taken from a 2-centimeter diameter pipe or corresponding metal rods;
Fixing the tubes and welding them;
Welding two reinforcement sections at the top of the structure to organize the reflector;
Welding the lid to the “barrel” (the first one should already have a hole for the chimney);
Making door handles from pipes or plates;
Making legs from corners or fittings;
Organizing a chimney using a 135-180 mm pipe;
Creating a rotary damper at the bottom of the chimney;
Furnace installation.

Manufacturing a metal furnace is a completely feasible task. You just need to approach the corresponding project slowly and gradually. Then the finished result will not disappoint.

Recommendations from specialists for installing an iron sauna stove

The main point is the presence of a high-quality foundation. Afterwards, it is necessary to take a number of measures aimed at fire safety, which are as follows:

A metal stove should be installed at a distance of at least 100 cm from the wall.
To avoid fire in the room, it is necessary to cover the walls located in the immediate vicinity of the structure with foil and heat-insulating material, which will enable wooden walls to avoid ignition.
An iron stove requires chimney insulation. You can resort to sandwich pipes.
It is imperative to build a brick sarcophagus on top of an iron stove. Its appearance will improve, and safety from possible burns when touching the hot metal walls of the oven will increase.