Foundation for a barrel sauna: what to install a barrel sauna on the site

Probably, the overwhelming majority of owners of summer cottages and private country houses cannot imagine their life without their own bathhouse, since such a structure is an integral part of ancient Russian traditions. A bathhouse is not only a place for washing, but also a kind of home “dispensary” that works to restore the strength and health of the owners, and provide the necessary periodic relaxation. But in order for it to bring only pleasant sensations, its arrangement, and in particular all the necessary communications, must be carried out according to all the rules.

Drainage pit for a bathhouse

One of the traditionally problematic components of the bath system is the disposal of used water, so it is very important to properly organize its drainage and collection site. Disposing of contaminated, untreated wastewater onto the ground or into natural bodies of water is strictly prohibited, and such an approach will inevitably lead to penalties from supervisory environmental authorities. Therefore, in the absence of a centralized sewerage system (as is most often the case), a special storage or drainage pit is usually created for these purposes. And in order for the drainage pit for a bathhouse to function effectively, it is necessary to study its design before starting construction, and during the period of arrangement work, follow the recommendations of experienced craftsmen.

Options for installing a drain pit for a bathhouse

At the final stage, work is carried out on the internal arrangement of the bathhouse:

1. A drain hole is made in the floorboards with the connection of drainage pipes.
2. Wooden flooring is provided for ease of use of the steam room - a removable grate with technological gaps between the boards of 1.5 cm.
3. Shelves are installed along the perimeter of the walls, and if there is free space, a table is installed.
4. Thermal insulation of surfaces is carried out - walls, ceilings and floors using heat-resistant materials. Heating equipment, a chimney with outlet to the street and an expansion tank for heating water are installed. The ceiling opening for the chimney is protected with thermal insulation material.
5. A heating stove is being installed. It is more convenient to operate an electric heater with a power of 5 kW or more in a mobile sauna.
6. The water tank is connected to the stove. Water pipes are being installed.
7. If the design includes a shower, a tray and the necessary set of plumbing equipment are installed.
8. The electrical wiring is laid in a waterproofing box with a connection to the distribution board.
9. A font for contrast procedures is installed.

Wooden structural elements, as well as surfaces, are treated with a special composition based on linseed oil to protect them from rotting and deformation.

For safe operation of the barrel sauna in winter, it is recommended to make high-quality thermal insulation of the structure from the outside to prevent heat loss and reduce fuel consumption.

The construction of a mobile bathhouse is a responsible undertaking that requires minimal experience in working with lumber and compliance with all stages of the technological process.

According to the rules, the drain pipe must be laid during the construction of the foundation. It is located in its lower part, sloping towards the drainage pit.

The drainage hole in the bathhouse is dug 3 meters from the foundation. Features of laying the drain pipe:

1. The edges of the pit are protected from collapse by formwork and concreting or reinforced concrete rings.
2. The bottom of the drainage pit is left free to ensure unhindered absorption of water into the soil, and the top is equipped with a reliable ceiling with a hole for the drainage pipe.

Pipes are laid at the foundation construction stage

1. Joints and bends when passing the pipe are not allowed, otherwise blockages may occur.
2. After installing the drain pipe and water supply, the floor in the bathhouse is poured with concrete. In this case, you need to maintain the slope of the floor towards the pipe.
3. The drain hole is closed with a special mesh, which will create additional protection against pipe clogging.
4. After the cement has completely dried, it is decorated with tiles, on top of which removable wooden gratings are laid. They will prevent discomfort and possible burns from contact with hot tiles. In addition, if necessary, the gratings can be easily removed for drying and antiseptic treatment, and in case of wear, for replacement.

Laying a drain pipe in a bathhouse

Such a floor will not need insulation - a concrete floor poured according to all the rules and good quality tiles laid on it quickly heat up when the bathhouse is fired and do not let cold air in from the outside.

Advice from a professional: If the slope when laying the drain pipe in the bathhouse towards the cesspool is sufficient, insulation of the pipe is also not required.

The design of such a drainage pit is similar to the structure of a drainage well. A metal barrel with a capacity of 200 liters can be used as a draining vessel. The process of creating a design is quite simple:

1. Drainage holes are cut on the side surface of the container using a grinder. The holes are placed in a checkerboard pattern using a pitch of 15-20 cm.

Installation of drainage holes

1. A pipe is installed in the bottom of the barrel, connected by a coupling to the sewer pipe. The joint is thoroughly sealed with silicone sealant. Sealing must be both external and internal.
2. The entire surface of the barrel is wrapped in geotextile - a non-woven material consisting of polyester fibers and having protective properties. It will drain the wastewater without allowing large elements to enter the drain barrel.
3. The geotextile is firmly secured to the barrel using twine or adhesive tape. They wrap it around the sides and bottom of the container so that there is an opening for the pipe. The top of the barrel is covered with a separate piece of geotextile, which is tightly fixed.

Next we proceed directly to its installation:

1. The drain hole is dug in close proximity to the places where the water will drain (shower, washbasin, bidet, etc.). Its depth and width should be slightly larger than the dimensions of the barrel.
2. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of crushed stone or gravel 20-30 cm thick. A barrel is installed on the resulting cushion so that the pipe is at the top.

Installing a barrel in a pit

1. The voids in the pit are filled with gravel.
2. A sewer pipe is connected to the pipe.

The barrel cesspool is ready!

Polyethylene barrels can also be used as septic tanks. The design of a two-chamber septic tank is a system of two barrels:

• the first reception room, which serves to settle solid particles from wastewater;
• the second will additionally filter the water that has settled in the first barrel.

Water flows from the first barrel to the second through a specially equipped gap between the soil and the barrels, filled with a mixture of gravel and sand. This gap is a biological filter, passing through which purified water enters the ground. The upper part of the septic tank is closed with a lid, three times impregnated with a bioprotective composition.

Height difference between two tanks

A two-chamber septic tank involves laying sewer pipes from a steam room and a shower room in the foundation of a bathhouse, connected by a tee to a collector, which, in turn, is supplied to the septic tank. A hatch is installed in the dressing room for access to the pipes for the purpose of repair and inspection. If all of the above conditions are met, the sewage system will work flawlessly and properly.

Advice from a professional: The advantage of using polymer barrels when building a two-chamber septic tank is their resistance to rotting, destruction by corrosion and fungus. Therefore, by using them, you ensure a long service life of the treatment plant without replacement or repair.

Underground filtration fields can be used to drain wastewater from the bathhouse. With their help, wastewater is purified and distributed into the soil through a system of irrigation pipelines throughout the entire area of ​​the summer cottage. The design consists of a septic tank equipped with a dosing device, a drainage pipe and a distribution well.

The water flows through the pipe into a network of irrigation canals - into drainage pipes buried in the ground. The depth of laying pipes is from 0.8 to 1.5 meters, but they should not be located at a distance of less than 1 meter from the groundwater level. The disadvantages of underground filtration fields include complexity and labor-intensive installation, as well as high cost.

Underground filtration field

Now, having familiarized yourself with three options for organizing sewerage drainage from a bathhouse, you can opt for the most suitable one in your specific situation, based on material capabilities, as well as the frequency of use of the premises.

Depending on the purpose of the room, there may be a full-fledged gazebo right at the threshold, in which hangers-hooks are installed and small benches (or chairs) are placed. Next comes the locker room. It may have the same hanger hooks, benches and even a small folding table attached to the wall. In the washroom, on one side you can install a shower head, and under it a tray; on the other side, there can be small shelves for cosmetics, ladles and other things. You don't need a lot of furniture in a steam room. All you need are benches and loungers where you can sit comfortably and take a steam bath.

As for the technical aspects, as a rule, the barrel-shaped design is arranged as follows:

• A wooden tray or grate must be installed in the washing room to ensure water drainage. In addition, a drain must be equipped in the floor and a pipe must be installed between the bottom and the sewer.
• If the water is heated by the stove, then the heating element should be installed between the steam room and the washing room.
• In a sauna, the stove can be located against the wall or placed outside the sauna.
• If heating occurs due to an indoor stove, it must be insulated to prevent accidental contact.
• The pipe can be brought out either from the side or directly in the middle. If this is a bath-sauna, then it is necessary to think through all issues related to ventilation and provide a special damper for the chimney.

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Ways to create a drain

To organize a drainage pit, they often use improvised materials, which many thrifty owners will have.

Barrels

To manufacture this drainage system, plastic or metal containers are used; their volume may vary. There are two options for obtaining a drain pit:

One barrel

1. First, a round pit is dug; its diameter is 100 or more millimeters wider than that of the barrel. The bottom is covered with one of the drainage materials - large gravel or crushed stone, which is well compacted. Equally spaced holes are made in the walls of the barrel, and the bottom is completely cut off.
2. The container is placed in the pit. Drainage material is also poured into it and into the space between the barrel and the walls of the pit. A pipe is inserted into it at the required angle, and the structure is closed.

This method is used only for organizing a drain in a bathhouse, since it is not suitable for cleaning other drains. The option is optimal if the “precinct dispensary” is used a maximum of twice a week.

Two barrels

1. They dig a large pit in which two containers can easily fit, for the second of them they dig a recess - 200 mm. Both elements are connected at the top with an overflow pipe.
2. Drainage trenches are dug on the side of the lower tank and filled with gravel or crushed stone. One or more drainage pipes with perforations are connected to the second, lower barrel.
3. The pipes are laid in trenches and covered with soil. Ornamental plants are planted in this area and will be guaranteed constant watering.

This design is already similar to a simple septic tank, so it will cope with its functions better than the previous one.

Concrete rings

This method of arranging a drain requires large investments, but they are fully justified, since this drainage system has an undeniable advantage - the ability to arrange a drain for the general sewage system of the site.

1. First of all, they dig a pit. Perforated rings are placed in it.
2. Drainage material is poured into the bottom of the resulting well, into the space between the pit and its walls.
3. To organize a general sewer system, the bottom of the well is pre-cemented.

If you plan to dig a large well, then such an operation will require calculations, knowledge of the depth of the water carriers, as well as the characteristics of the soil - its absorbent properties.

Brick

A similar drain is obtained from this building material, and bricks that have already been used are suitable for construction. In this case, masonry is made with gaps that will replace perforation. The principle of operation is practically no different from the creation of the first “barrel” structure.

A drainage layer is poured into the gap between the soil and the brick, which will help drain water from the well into the soil. If you dig a deeper pit and make the bottom and walls in the lower part airtight, then such a drainage pit can also be used to organize a general sewer system. The only maintenance requirement is the need to periodically clean the structure.

This scheme is most popular when it comes to owners of summer cottages. Tires with the side cut off are placed in a stack in a pit, and a drainage pad is backfilled around such a well. One hole for the pipe is cut in the upper element, or two if a large volume of water is planned. The knife does not always cope with such difficult “working conditions”, so a grinder with a thin cutting disc is often used.

Advantages and disadvantages of a barrel bath

Barrel-shaped baths stand out for their non-trivial shapes. Such structures cannot go unnoticed; they “catch” and cause surprise. It is precisely due to the fact that they are round that many of their characteristics exceed those of ordinary bathhouses by several times. The undoubted advantages of such barrel-shaped baths:

• the compactness of the structure implies a small volume for heating;
• original appearance;

• fast heating due to the fact that the steam is in a spherical space - in hot weather such a bathhouse can be heated in 15-20 minutes, and in winter it will take a little more time - about an hour;
• less energy required to solve this problem - if the stove is wood-burning, then literally 7-8 logs will be needed to light it;
• a barrel sauna is a fairly lightweight structure, so it can be moved if desired; in addition, there are even mobile trailed saunas;

• compared to log baths, the construction of a barrel-shaped building will take only a few days (and only if it is self-assembled);
• construction does not require a capital foundation;
• “thermos” effect – heat can last for a very long time;
• manufacturers claim that the service life of these buildings can reach 20 years or more;
• It is very easy to keep the room clean;

• this is a fairly low-cost alternative to the capital construction of a large building;
• there is a huge selection of a wide variety of designs of this type;
• The main building element is wood. Properly selected material, in addition to its outwardly attractive appearance, will also provide a real therapeutic steam room. Wood species such as linden and cedar can create a wonderful healing microclimate. But no one prohibits the use of aromatic oils during procedures.

So, if there is not enough free space on the site, you want exclusivity and originality, then you cannot find a better option than a barrel sauna. But still, like any other building, barrel-shaped structures also have their drawbacks. The main one is the relative crampedness of the internal space of the bathhouse.

There are also unscrupulous developers who use low-quality materials for construction. Having received a finished building and started using it, only over time can you find out that something is wrong in the bathhouse. As a rule, when defects appear, the manufacturer is no longer on the market.

Many homeowners dream of a private bathhouse, because it does not require special permission, the construction of a separate foundation, log frame and roofing system.

Like a stationary structure, a barrel-shaped bathhouse has its pros and cons, which should be taken into account before construction begins.

• Mobility, compactness and convenient design. Compact dimensions and relatively low weight (up to 1.5 tons) allow such a structure to be installed on any type of foundation and easily transported over long distances. The average size of a bathhouse does not exceed 12 square meters. m, so the mobile structure can be used in the country or on frequent trips.
• Fast warm-up. The heating rate of a bath in a barrel is twice as high as that of stationary structures. To obtain the first steam it will take from 20 to 35 minutes, while the air is heated to a comfortable and safe temperature for the human body of 95 degrees.
• High heat capacity. This design prevents heat loss, so it will require much less fuel to warm it up. So, if 14 logs are used to light a traditional sauna, then for a barrel-shaped sauna - no more than 9.
• Cost-effective and durable. To build a round sauna, you will need less finance compared to the construction of a stationary steam room of the same size. In addition, it does not require the construction of a foundation. It is enough to install massive beams connected to each other, which will form a solid foundation.
• Ergonomics. The round design allows for efficient use of every square meter of space. Here you can equip a full-fledged steam room, a dressing room (locker room) and a shower. The capacity of a medium-sized sauna ranges from 3 to 8 people.
• Year-round operation. Thanks to the small area and efficient operation of the heater, a round sauna can maintain a constant temperature even in winter. Thus, the steam room can be used throughout the year.
• Easy to maintain. Another advantage that makes such a design stand out against the background of stationary structures. Easy to clean thanks to a minimum number of corners and hard-to-reach places.
• Affordable price. The construction of a round bathhouse will cost several times less than the construction of a full-fledged stationary steam room.

The main disadvantage of mobile structures is the need for mandatory insulation for operation in winter, which ultimately increases the cost of the finished project.

In what cases is a regular drainage pit suitable?

If the steam room is located far from the house, then it is better to arrange a separate container for it. A septic tank for a bathhouse without pumping it yourself can be the best option in this case. Running pipes to a system that processes wastewater from your home is a bad idea.

When installing a septic tank for a bathhouse, you should take into account the contamination of the drains. Usually the bulk is soapy water with a small amount of particles of human skin and hair. In this case, a septic tank for a bath without pumping without a toilet is suitable.

If the bathhouse includes a bathroom, then the type of drains will be different. In this case, it is necessary to equip a reliable septic tank with two chambers.

A septic tank with one compartment is the most basic design. It consists of a container without a bottom, working on the principle of a well that performs a filtering function. Metal barrels without a bottom, special plastic containers act as a reservoir, and a layer of crushed stone at the bottom will serve as a filter.

Installation of a septic tank will preserve all elements of the building, extending its service life. Moreover, this will avoid contamination of groundwater and soil.

The drainage pit is a simple design. If we talk about its advantages, we can emphasize that it is built quickly, without any problems. Significant funds are not required for this. If it is not cleaned for a long time, then the corresponding odors spread throughout the area.

It is quite possible to build a drainage pit for a bathhouse on your own. It needs to be equipped, even if there is no bathroom in the steam room. The following must be taken into account:

1. How many people will take a steam bath? This fact affects the volume of the drainage pit.
2. What does soil consist of?
3. Is there groundwater? If they go deep, then the ground will be solid, which means this stage of construction will be much easier.

Important! If the groundwater level on the site reaches a high level, then constructing a drainage pit from a bathhouse is a waste of time. Under such circumstances, it will be regularly filled with water.

Main types of round baths

Depending on the size, design features and purpose, barrel-shaped baths are divided into three main types. A brief overview of each of them:

1. Russian steam room. Wet hot steam and a traditional attribute - a birch or oak broom. This structure consists of two functional areas - a steam room and a washing compartment.
2. Finnish sauna. High temperature and dry steam. It is advisable to have a hanging bucket or font at your disposal for contrasting water procedures.
3. Japanese ofuro. A spacious wooden vat equipped with a heater.

Russian steam room

The most popular type of bathhouse, which can be organized on your own site. Bath procedures include a set of activities taking place in the steam room and washing room.

The steam room has a sauna stove, which provides quick heating of the building and promotes the formation of thick and moist steam. The washing room is used for contrasting water procedures after warming up the body in the steam room.

Since bath procedures require a large amount of water, the design of the bath must provide for a special drainage system.

The heating stove is mounted between two functional zones so that the chamber with the heater is located in the steam room, and the expansion tank and firebox are located in the washing room.

Since the Russian round bath is small in size, the heating equipment must be compact and safe. The inner surface of the walls should be covered with fire-resistant panels.

Dry sauna

A Finnish sauna made from a barrel of dry steam can be located in one room. A distinctive feature of the structure is the presence of a font for contrast procedures. Setting up a round dry sauna is much easier than building a full-length stationary sauna.

Such a structure must be airtight, practical, safe and durable. In a dry steam room, unlike a Russian one, there is no drainage system. The main requirement is to provide ventilation openings with valves in the wall and floor base. The sauna is also equipped with comfortable benches and a compact heating stove.

The round barrel sauna can be mounted in a horizontal or vertical position. It is important to remember that the horizontal position provides for a significant increase in the total area of ​​the building.

This is a Japanese barrel bath, which has a number of advantages for installation and operation. Ofuro does not have a roof, installation is carried out on a wooden base, and the inside is equipped with the necessary furniture and equipment.

The most common ofuro shape is round or ellipsoidal, which allows you to install seating benches and a heating device inside with additional protection in the form of a wooden partition. Another option involves supplying heating pipes from a stove taken outside. This design requires more resources, time to heat up and maintain optimal temperature conditions.

A frame barrel sauna does not require a foundation. It can be installed on any flat surface - concrete, asphalt, crushed stone, covered with turf or tiled.

For the base, high-quality edged boards with a thickness of 5 mm or more are used. Crossbars are mounted in increments of 150 cm, so the number is determined by the dimensions of the building.

Round grooves are made on the crossbars that correspond to the contours of the bathhouse. For this purpose, special patterns made of durable material are used. The width of the rest of the lumber is 10 cm.

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The parts are connected to each other with screws, and to reinforce the finished structure, metal corners are used, which are fixed in the corners and at the joints of the longitudinal boards and crossbars.

What are the differences? What types are there and in what case should they be used?

A large number of septic tanks for bathhouses have been developed. They have significant differences, representing containers made of plastic, metal, reinforced concrete of different volumes.

In addition to the material, these devices differ in their operating principle. The most recognized and effective method is biological treatment. Microorganisms that feed on waste in wastewater independently process human waste products.

Another simple method is partial purification and additional purification in the soil. So, passing through a layer of crushed stone, the wastewater ends up in the soil. This contributes to their more thorough cleansing.

Almost all designs work according to the same scheme. The first stage is to separate the dirty water from the feces by allowing them to settle at the bottom of the container.

Second stage: the water moves into the second compartment. Here it is further cleaned.

The third stage - the wastewater is clarified even more. At the last stage, the water is completely purified. Special filters can be used for this. The result is water that is not suitable for drinking; it is used only for technical needs.

Septic tanks can also be divided by type of installation. There are solid structures (made of reinforced concrete), as well as prefabricated ones.

Important! A septic tank can be made from different materials, but the price of the structure will ultimately be approximately the same. Therefore, when choosing them, it is better to focus on the properties of the structure and its functionality.

Prefabricated reinforced concrete septic tanks are considered the most popular.

Types of wood for a barrel-shaped sauna

The most popular material for constructing a round bathhouse is wood. For these purposes, it is better to use bath tree species: larch, oak, cedar, linden and aspen.

• Oak buildings are wear-resistant and durable. They are inert to rotting, cracking and deformation. The wood cut has an attractive texture and pleasant aroma. The disadvantages of such wood are the high cost and complexity of pre-processing.
• Linden buildings are practical and safe. Linden baths have a beneficial effect on the human body, promoting rejuvenation and cleansing. Linden lumber is easy to process and assemble; in addition, it has high heat capacity, but is short-lived and susceptible to rotting.
• Aspen buildings are affordable and cheap. In terms of its performance characteristics, aspen is not inferior to linden, but at the same time it is resistant to overheating, cracking and deformation.

You should not use coniferous wood to build a bathhouse, which contains a large amount of resins that are released when the lumber is heated.

The exception is cedar lumber, which has a powerful healing effect on the body. The cedar bath is especially useful for people suffering from diseases of the respiratory system.

For the manufacture of bath equipment and furniture, cheaper materials are widely used - alder, fir and birch. But they are absolutely unsuitable for building a bathhouse.

Pit against sewer

When deciding what is best to install on the site - a cesspool for a bathhouse or a stationary septic tank (which is a variant of an autonomous sewerage system) take into account the following

Advantages and disadvantages

these devices:

• service life - for septic tanks it is many times longer;
• environmental Safety;
• practicality, ease of use;
• volume of devices (septic tanks have a whole “model range” that best suits the different needs of consumers).

Septic tanks have only one drawback - high price. But the cesspool has many more disadvantages. This includes silting, the need for regular cleaning, and the inevitable release of harmful substances into the soil, which are not all “fertilizers.”

Characteristics

There are many options for round baths, each of which has its own characteristics, ranging from size to internal arrangement. Thus, after going through all the possible options, you can choose your “ideal” barrel sauna.

Dimensions

The smallest bathhouse, located horizontally, is 2 meters long. Its design implies the presence of 1-2 rooms. You can undress here at the entrance if the bathhouse has a porch with a canopy. The weight of such a building is about 1.5 tons.

The largest barrels reach a little over 6 meters. There can already be up to 3 rooms: a dressing room (with a well-thought-out resting place, a table, clothes hangers, benches), a wash room (with a shower or water containers), a steam room (with comfortable benches and loungers); or in the case of a sauna, the washing room can become a relaxation room. On average, the length of each room will be 1-2 meters.

Classic round baths can be of the following sizes - up to 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 meters in length, about 2 meters in diameter (1.95 m is the internal diameter). Quad and oval baths may have slightly different parameters: 4x4, 3x6. Almost any bathhouse can accommodate comfortable sun loungers with a width of 500 mm.

In two-meter baths there is only one room. In the three- to four-meter ones there are already two – a small locker room and a steam room. The largest ones have space for three rooms.

The classic shape of a barrel bath is a circle, or rather a cylinder, located horizontally.

Less common are oval, square or rectangle shapes with rounded corners. In addition, there are options for baths with a semicircular top and rectangular bottom.

The entrance to both oval and quad baths can be from the front or the side. The entrance can be framed by a canopy or equipped with a gazebo. And the barrel sauna can be additionally enclosed in the frame of a gable roof.

Double-rounded baths have a rectangular outline. Vertical barrel baths are most often round-shaped buildings, less often oval or rectangular with rounded corners.

Materials

The main performance characteristics of a bathhouse depend on the materials from which it is made. The bathhouse is built from wood, or rather, specially processed profiled timber with a moongroove or tongue-and-groove fastening. The following types of wood are usually used for construction:

• Oak is a very high-quality material that becomes even stronger when exposed to water. It has excellent properties and can serve for many years. It has a beautiful structure, but is very expensive.
• Linden is an excellent material for a bathhouse. Known for its medicinal properties. Unfortunately, poorly treated wood of this species is easily susceptible to rotting and other negative effects.
• Aspen is an analogue of linden. With its help you can also create a favorable microclimate. But unlike linden, it is more resistant to harmful effects.

• Larch is a material that does not rot, and therefore will last a very long time. True, the price for round timber of this breed is quite high.
• Cedar is the only conifer that is highly recommended as a building material. It can also be used to create a healing microclimate. It has a beautiful unique structure. It has one drawback - it is quite expensive.
• Spruce, pine and other conifers are not recommended as building materials for baths. This is due to the fact that when exposed to high temperatures, wood is capable of releasing resins, which can cause burns. However, this effect only occurs from temperatures exceeding 100 degrees. Moreover, if such wood has undergone good chamber drying, then this process is minimal.
• Alder and birch are not suitable for building a barrel sauna, as they get very hot.

In addition to wooden elements, you will need ties, which are made from iron tape (strip), or steel hoops. Of course, metal corners, screws and other fasteners will be needed.

System installation

To assemble a system for draining water from a bathhouse, you need to take into account some nuances, know the basic elements of the design, and understand how it works.

Design

You can make high-quality drainage only by knowing the general structure of the floor. You need to think about the location of the drain hole. During construction, the floor must be made on a slope. The drain hole should be located at the lowest point.

When designing a drainage system, it is recommended to draw a drawing that will indicate the elements, dimensions, location of pipes, holes, and a pit for water.

Materials and tools

Consumables and tools:

• plastic pipes;
• couplings;
• drain grate;
• plastic bends;
• bayonet, shovel;
• grinder with metal discs;
• sharp knife;
• building level.

Step-by-step installation

1. Dig a trench 60 cm deep. You need to start work from the building and finish near the reservoir into which the water will drain.
2. Each meter of pipeline must be sloped 2 cm more than the previous meter. This way the water will flow without difficulty into the drainage hole under the bathhouse.
3. Pour a 10 cm thick layer of sand onto the bottom of the trench, but the slope should not change.
4. If the foundation is strip, you need to drill a hole in its wall for installing a drainage system. Fix a layer of polyurethane around the installed pipe. It will serve as insulation.

After installing the pipeline, you need to check it for leaks. To do this, it is recommended to drain 5–10 liters of liquid through the drainage system. If there are no leaks at the joints, you can begin backfilling the trench.

Also, attention should be paid to independently arranging a pit for draining liquid from the bathhouse. Stages:

1. Dig a round hole 1–2 meters deep.
2. Purchase concrete or plastic rings for constructing a drain well.
3. Place the first ring in the hole and continue digging until all the rings are inside.
4. Pour a layer of fine crushed stone 30 cm thick onto the bottom.
5. Place the drainage well cover on top.

All that remains is to bring the drain pipe to the hole and seal the joints.

Thermal insulation

If the drain will be installed in a cold climate zone, it must be insulated. For this it is recommended to use mineral wool. The tubes are wrapped with it. The insulation is secured on top with a frame made of stainless steel sheets.

Technology for constructing a home barrel bath

To assemble a simple barrel-shaped bath structure, you will need the following tools and materials:

• Electric jigsaw and drill.
• Screwdriver.
• Hammer.
• Plane.
• Building level.
• Roulette.
• Steel clamps.
• Window and door structures.
• Heating equipment.
• Supporting wooden blocks.
• Roofing material.
• Material for stove insulation.
• Pipes for water supply and chimney.
• Fastening elements.

The main material used is a sauna board of arbitrary width, 6 cm thick. Fixation method: tongue and groove.

To determine the required number of boards, the circumference is divided by the width of the board.

Example. The circumference is 7.5 meters, the width of the board is 9 cm. Number of boards = 7500 mm/90 mm = 83.3. To work you will need 83 boards.

The lumber is carefully sanded at the ends and treated with antifungal impregnations.

To make a high-quality assembly of a bathhouse with your own hands, it is recommended to prepare a working drawing of the future structure indicating the dimensions of all elements.

The number of supports is determined by the length of the building. The beams are sawn to a length equal to the diameter of the bathhouse. If the diameter is 2.5 meters, all supports must be the same length. The supports are installed in 1.5 meter increments.

Small recesses are made on top of the beams for mounting the bath structure; the remaining parts of the supports should protrude 10 cm on each side.

The supports are installed on a prepared site, maintaining a slight slope for drainage.

The first board is mounted in the middle of the future structure. On both sides of the first element, boards are installed sequentially with a groove connection. All recesses in the support beams must be covered with floorboards.

The number of partitions depends on the number of functional areas in the bathhouse. They are installed in the right places according to the working design. Next, external walls of the required length are installed, and door and window openings are formed.

The finished bath structure must be airtight and reliable.

To ensure additional strength and wear resistance of the bathhouse, the finished structure is strengthened with steel clamps. Holes are made at the ends of the tie to secure it to the wooden frame with fasteners, preferably bolts and nuts.

The screed will not only ensure the strength of the frame, but will also prevent heat loss during the operation of the building.

Pre-ordered structures are installed in prepared openings, the joints are carefully caulked and sealed with sealant.

To decorate the roof of a round bathhouse, you can use soft or hard roofing material, and the installation process itself is much simpler and more affordable than in traditional buildings.

Using a filtration well to drain a bathhouse

Perform the following operations:

1. Dig a hole 50 cm below the freezing point. Set the horizontal dimensions at your discretion; usually the dimensions are determined by the diameter of the concrete pipe, which is installed in the hole to protect it from crumbling soil.
2. Install the concrete pipe into the well. Instead of a pipe, you can build formwork and make concrete walls.
3. At the bottom of the well, pour a layer of expanded clay or crushed stone mixed with sand in a layer of at least 30 cm. The filtration layer should be located 15 cm above the maximum freezing level of the soil.
4. Dig a trench from the bathhouse to the well, sloping towards the hole.
5. Lay the sewer pipe in the trench. Connect one side of the pipe to the drain pipe of the bathhouse, and lead the other into the well. In the trench, the pipe should be placed with a slight slope, which depends on its diameter; the standard slope is 2 cm/m. The recommended pipe depth is 60–70 cm below the freezing level. However, accurately meeting the last requirement sometimes requires the manufacture of a deep well, so an alternative option is proposed - to protect the pipes from freezing, insulate them in any way.

To make it easier to select pipelines, manufacturers paint indoor sewer pipes gray and outdoor sewer pipes orange.

When laying pipes in a trench, comply with the following requirements:

• The pipe must be without bends to avoid clogging.
• Pipe diameter - at least 50 mm.
• Buy special sewer pipes. Traditional concrete or ceramic products have proven themselves well; PVC pipes can also be used. It is not recommended to install metal ones, they rust.
• Seal the pipe joints with concrete.
• Cover the well with a lid.
• Make and install an air pipe, which should protrude 400 mm above the ground level.

This system has a drawback - soapy water can clog the soil, requiring cleaning.

Reviews

Most reviews from barrel sauna owners are positive. But there are also negative ones. Owners of such designs praise them primarily for their original design, as well as ease of assembly, mobility, and quick warm-up. Many note that this design is intended for temporary use only during the warm season. Although there are those who used them in winter.

We suggest you read: How to use a spray foam gun

There are a lot of records of bathhouse owners who recently purchased them, in contrast to those who have used them for at least 3-4 years. Positive reviews are often so “sweet” that one involuntarily doubts their reality and non-commercial component. Therefore, negative comments are especially valuable. Those who are against and criticize barrel baths - that is, probably real buyers - note the following:

• Over time, the boards dry out, and then pulling and installing them becomes problematic. Although in many ways this indicates the initially poor quality of the building materials - they were not properly dried.
• In winter, baths do not warm up as quickly and cool down just as quickly. It feels cold from below when there is still steam above. There is no opportunity to sit for a long time in the steam room.

• The need to monitor drainage, especially when used in cold weather. The drain pipe may burst, and this will lead to poor drainage, stagnation of water and the occurrence of rot.
• The appearance of mold and mildew even with proper care - regular ventilation and cleaning.
• Many users of summer baths are confused by the thickness of the walls. The boards that are used are quite thin - only 4-5 cm.
• Expensive - for the same amount you can build an ordinary frame or foam block temporary bathhouse, which will be more spacious.

Design from the outside

The calculations use the size of the steam room, frequency of use in the future, and type of soil. Each of the water intake designs has its own installation nuances. A drainage well is used most often because of its basic design for personal use in summer cottages. The tank for wastewater treatment is enough for a group of up to 6 people to visit the bathhouse.

A professional design team will help determine the optimal size of the well in the conditions of a particular site. You won’t have to overpay for extra material and square meters of work by the installers.

Constructions that use a septic tank are sold ready-made. The volume of the tank varies depending on the number of possible visitors to the bathhouse. For a large family of 6-7 people, the average capacity of the tank should be at least 1.5 m3 per day.

How to do it yourself?

Manufacturers offer turnkey baths. The barrel will either be brought to the site or assembled on site. However, there are also special offers from developers - ready-made kits for self-assembly with detailed step-by-step instructions for installing the structure. True, the price of such kits is not much different from the finished product.

The boards must be perfectly dried. The dimensions of each board must be identical. In addition, each board must go through a milling machine. To connect the elements, a tongue-and-groove connection is used. Such a connection can only be made using professional equipment. In addition, each wooden element must be treated with special protective solutions.

To calculate, order and prepare the required amount of materials, it is necessary to make an accurate drawing of the future structure. The more accurate the project, the better.

At the design stage, you will need to decide how the windows and doors will be located. They should be indicated in the figure.

According to the finished drawing or diagram, the master will cut the following blanks on a milling cutter:

• wooden boards for floors, walls and ceilings with tongue-and-groove fastenings with a cross-section of no more than 45*90 mm;
• walls and partitions with a section of 50*200 mm;
• bases with semicircular cutouts (the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the bath). The cross-section is no more than 40*400 mm. There can be from 2 to 4 such bases, depending on the length and number of rooms.

When all the blanks are ready and pre-processed, you can begin assembly.

The barrel bath needs to be assembled on a flat surface (even leveled ground, an area paved with paving slabs or an area filled with concrete will do). A solid foundation is neither required nor done. When constructing a barrel bath with a steam room, you need to provide a drainage system. The platform may have a slight slope.

When the future foundation is ready, the bathhouse is already assembled on it. To begin with, the foundations are secured. Metal corners, screws and a screwdriver will come in handy here. The supports are placed in increments of 150 cm. The boards must be fixed as firmly as possible, which is why metal corners are useful, which create additional rigidity. These elements are attached at the corners and at the junction of the transverse and longitudinal planks.

Afterwards the first board is laid. It is located exactly in the middle. You need to fasten it securely, because it is to it that all other boards will be attached.

According to the technology, the boards are attached simultaneously in parallel on both sides. Each piece must adhere tightly to the previous one. The moongroove fastening allows you to connect boards to each other without the use of any connecting elements.

When the lower sector is assembled, the boards fill the entire cutout of the stand, and the end walls are attached. In order to install partitions in the side boards, special grooves must be provided.

The final element will be a correction bar. This detail allows you to minimize gaps.

All that remains is to tighten the bathhouse with steel cables. When the screeds are secured, take care of the drainage and chimney, installation of the stove, installation of electrical wiring, and sewerage.

If you plan to use the bathhouse all year round, then at this stage it is necessary to insulate it. The structure can be insulated using a special foil roll material that can withstand high temperatures. Traditional materials for these purposes are mineral wool.

The floor, ceiling, walls are ready. Now you can install doors and windows. Please note that they must be installed as tightly as possible. Then you need to move on to the internal arrangement. Benches, seats, a wooden pallet, a folding table, hangers, shelves - all this is necessary for a comfortable stay in the bathhouse.

One of the last steps will be erecting the roof. You can put, for example, bitumen shingles or other soft roofing on a round bathhouse, or you can build an additional frame for a gable roof.

And at the very end of construction, it will be necessary to process all the wooden elements of the interior decoration of the bathhouse. Flaxseed oil is an excellent impregnation that has proven itself as an additional protection against excess moisture. It would be useful to treat the external surfaces of the bathhouse with a fire retardant composition.

The bathhouse is ready. But don't rush to use it right away. The first firebox will be “technical” in order to completely ventilate all the compounds that were used. It is necessary to heat the hot bath for at least 4 hours. The room temperature should be above 60 degrees Celsius. Doors and windows must be open.

To learn how to assemble a barrel sauna, see the following video.

How to do without a factory container

Modern building materials make it possible to build any container for wastewater. You can make an inexpensive and high-quality system yourself. Two types of sewage system can be installed:

• Septic tank for a bathhouse without pumping;
• Closed sump.

The latter option eliminates the drainage of wastewater into the soil. He needs frequent release from water. An alternative is to install a well with drainage. This is how human waste products sink to the bottom, and the purified water moves into the next container.

If a septic tank that is not pumped out is installed incorrectly, it can pollute the environment. If all the requirements are met, then this design will become very convenient without requiring any costs.

To create a pit for draining water, you can use a septic tank for a bathhouse made from a barrel. You will need three pieces. Two of them will be settling tanks, the third will be a drainage device. The drainage from the bathhouse contains only soapy water, because of this the help of a sewer truck is not required.

Important! A septic tank can be installed if the groundwater level is below four meters.

To install a septic tank for a bathhouse with a toilet, barrels made of plastic, iron and metal are used. There are different types, the most popular is a septic tank for a bathhouse made from a 200 liter barrel.

Many people use plastic barrels as a septic tank. They are convenient and economical in terms of water consumption. However, if a washing machine or shower is installed at the dacha, then the container will not be able to cope with the amount of water being processed. These designs are convenient because they allow you to increase the volume of sewerage. You just need to add the missing number of barrels.

Have you decided to make a septic tank for a bathhouse without pumping? What material to choose? Bricks and Eurocubes, poured concrete and rings made of the same material are suitable for this. It is better to take clinker brick, of all types it is the most resistant to aggressive environments.

The shape of the structure can be round or rectangular. It is imperative to take care of waterproofing. For this purpose, a special mastic is used. Cement mortar is used inside.

A septic tank for a bathhouse made of concrete is a more profitable design. On its basis, a screed of sand and cement is installed, then formwork made of plywood or boards is installed, and the mortar is poured.

It is impossible to install a septic tank made of concrete rings without the help of special equipment. This is a more expensive method. When laying concrete rings in a pit, a concrete base is constructed.

The next stage is the installation of concrete rings. The structure is strengthened with a solution of sand and cement. The issue of tightness is given due attention.

Beautiful examples

One of the advantages of a barrel sauna is undoubtedly its original appearance. He can't help but attract attention. Many people, having heard that their friends have such a bathhouse, want to visit it and try its steam in person.

The interior of the barrel bathhouse also looks very original from the inside. Most of the furniture is made of wood. The spherical wooden room promotes additional relaxation. Psychologically, it is comfortable, a person feels protected. In cross-section, it looks like a “sandwich” of several rooms:

But over time, even such an exclusive can become boring. Many owners begin to decorate the building, and the bathhouse turns into a space shuttle or submarine or other buildings that have a cylindrical shape. Some people make a bathhouse that looks like a fairytale hut, but with an elongated oval shape.

Other owners begin to emphasize the shape of the barrel or additionally adapt it to the structure of the house (leaving the necessary “gap” of 6 meters), equip it with a roof and veranda, and adapt it to a pool or water container. (If initially these architectural elements were not included in the bathhouse package).

With proper care, a barrel sauna will last for decades. Main:

• Do not forget to ventilate the steam room, and other rooms, for at least 4-5 hours, preferably after each use and if the sauna has not been heated for a long time.
• Do additional “drying” of the bath. It is necessary to run the oven at full power within one to two hours and keep the doors and windows open.
• Treat the structure with protective agents at least once a year.
• If a wood-burning stove is installed, it is advisable to use non-coniferous wood for heating. Firewood must be dry.

• The water tank must be at least half full. This is very important when burning. After use, it is advisable to remove the remaining water from the tank.
• Check and clean the chimney regularly.
• Make sure that the water in the drain does not stagnate or freeze.
• In the autumn, the hoops that tighten the bathhouse frame should be loosened. It is during the cold season that wood tends to expand slightly due to the surrounding moisture. In summer, the reverse process occurs, the wood dries out, and the hoops need to be tightened.

Tags: bathhouse, barrel, plum, device

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Wet valves

If you choose a water seal for a bathhouse based on the efficiency of locking, then the best option would be a hydraulic circuit with a curved U-elbow, or an annular chamber with a concentric partition.

Eternal knee

A water seal in the form of an elbow requires a free space of at least 150 mm in height for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm and an overhang of 250-300 mm for a full drain with a cross-section of 100 mm. Therefore, knee bellows are used primarily for bathhouse projects on stilts or columnar foundations. To reliably lock the pipe, the height of the water column must be at least one and a half diameters of the channel.

The main advantage of a water seal is its simplicity of design; it is quite possible to make such a siphon for a bathhouse with your own hands from parts of sewer fittings and pipes. It turns out not as beautiful as industrially made drains, but for a bathhouse it is more important that the structure is easy to repair and simple to maintain. The knee can be easily cleaned, either with a brush or with specialized attachments, rotating brushes and even chemicals such as “Mole”.

This type of drain can work in a properly constructed bathhouse for a couple of decades, until someone uses a cable to punch a hole in the plastic elbow of the water seal.

Flat water seal

For a bathhouse installed on a strip foundation, it is best to use a trap water seal. Its height usually does not exceed 10-12 cm, so the drain box can be safely mounted into the floor screed, and no additional fastenings are required for connection to the sewer.

For example, the “CENTER AQUAPA” model consists of two halves. In the bottom part of the water seal there is an annular cavity with water, which, after installing the top cover, will be divided by a partition. The result is the same bellows, but with a gate height of only 15-20 mm. The drain body is simply put on the receiving hole of the compensating adapter of the sewer pipe of 110 mm.

Important! In this case, the use of a sliding adapter is a prerequisite so that the water seal box is not torn off the pipe due to the expansion of plastic from hot water in the bathhouse.

The box-shaped design turned out to be quite reliable and easy to maintain; the only drawbacks include a small level of water in the water seal. In summer, the water in the drain evaporates, and, accordingly, odors from the septic tank will break into the bathhouse within a couple of days. Whereas in the bellows elbow the water seal will last 3-4 days.

In winter, in a country bathhouse, the drain drain may freeze, but this does not affect its operation in any way. There is little water left, so the risk of damage is minimal. A water seal with an elbow can actually be crushed by frozen water.

Float device for organizing a drain in a bathhouse

Structurally, the water seal with a float is very similar to the previous version of the water seal. The only difference is that in the ladder version, the outlet hole is blocked by raising the water level, and in the float version, the same window is blocked with a foam liner.

Float valves very tightly and reliably block the drain passage even with a minimum amount of liquid. In practice, the drain in the bathhouse can be reliably blocked within 10-15 days from the date of the last visit to the steam room. Among the disadvantages, one can note the sensitivity of the water seal to contamination. After soapy water, the float must be washed with clean boiling water.

Choice of material: metal or plastic

In order to save money, very often a septic tank in a country house is made from barrels that previously served another function. For example, they could be used to store grain, sand, cement and other bulk substances. The container can be metal or plastic, the main thing is its tightness.

If the question of purchasing a barrel still arises, then it is better to give preference to plastic. And that's why:

• wider range on the market;
• resistance to corrosion and aggressive effects of wastewater;
• absolute tightness over a long service life;
• installation without the use of lifting equipment due to its low weight.

To be completely objective, it should be clarified that the last point is only partly an advantage. The small mass of plastic makes it necessary to attach the container to a concrete base to level out the buoyant effect of groundwater. In this regard, a septic tank made of iron barrels is considered more preferable, since it does not require anchoring.

Any barrel that meets the tightness requirements can be suitable for a sewer sump.

Metal barrels - temporary wastewater collection system

When arranging a septic tank from iron containers, it is necessary to dig a pit of suitable dimensions and be sure to concrete its bottom. Then prepare two barrels and drill holes on their sides. You will insert the outlet of the drainage pipe and the inlet of the overflow pipe into them. Remember - the pipe product coming from the house is always inserted into the first barrel with a certain slope. Due to this, wastewater will flow by gravity into the septic tank without any problems.

Important pro tips to follow when installing a sewer system made of metal barrels:

• the second metal container should be installed in the pit slightly lower than the first;
• use barrels with a volume of at least 200 liters;
• high-quality insulation of the septic tank on all sides is mandatory (there is no need to lay heat-insulating material only at the bottom of the pit);
• The tanks are backfilled with soil; the top of the septic tank is covered with roofing felt and lids made of wood or iron (do not forget to make a hole in the coating through which wastewater will be periodically pumped out of the tanks).

Construction of a sewer system from metal barrels

If you want to increase the volume of the structure in question, it is possible to install several barrels on top of each other and weld them together. In addition, additional iron jumpers can be mounted. They will provide more reliable fastening of the barrels. All joints between barrels should be thoroughly waterproofed. For this, hot bitumen is most often used.

Let's say it right away. No matter how you set up a system of iron barrels, after 3-4 years the metal tanks will have to be replaced. They will begin to rot and rust under the influence of aggressive wastewater.

Drain pipe method

In general, this method is similar to the previous ones and differs only in the type of materials and slight differences in the design of the septic tank. The longer pipe length is important here . At the same time, it is important to install the pipe itself at the stage of pouring the foundation with a slope towards the area for building a sump.

The sump is made on the basis of concrete rings that make up the walls of the pit. The bottom, in turn, should not be covered with anything for better absorption of waste. The pipe is laid without corners or bends, and the diameter of the pipe is taken to be the maximum possible among sewer pipes for domestic waste. When installing a pipe, it is important to insulate it , since when the soil freezes, the water in the pipe can freeze and deform the plastic, at best.

How to choose the right material

Modern pipes for organizing a drainage system are made of high-strength plastic. Its service life is 50 years. Pipes are used from:

• polypropylene;
• low density polyethylene;
• polyvinyl chloride;
• chlorinated polyvinyl chloride.

They are not afraid of water, do not rust or rot. They are easily assembled into a system, attached to each other simply and without much effort. They come in different sizes, among which there is sure to be one that is necessary for specific conditions.

And although cast iron pipes are stronger and more reliable, they are practically not used to create bathhouse drains. They are difficult to transport and install; installation requires special equipment, additional tools and specialists. The result is a costly event that can be avoided.

Asbestos-cement pipes are not recommended for use. They have an uneven surface inside that catches debris. This is especially dangerous if the drainage system is more than 10 meters.

The diameter of the pipes for a steam room with an average degree of use is 11 cm, for small baths 7 cm is enough.

Washing room in the bathhouse Source 2gis.com

Wastewater disposal method

The design of the drainage system for draining waste water from the washing and steam rooms is selected taking into account the type of soil on which the structure is built and the intensity of use of the bathhouse. Each of the designs has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

Pit under the bathhouse

Pit under the bathhouse with a stone for draining water

A shallow hole dug under the floor of a washroom. 2/3 of the pit is filled with filtering components - crushed stone, slag, aquifer sand. This natural filter traps large particles, purifying the water, which is then absorbed into the lower layers of the soil.

The advantages of this system include:

The main disadvantage of drainage in the form of a pit is that it can only be used for bathhouses on a columnar foundation located on sandy soil types. With frequent use of the bathhouse, the soil may become oversaturated with moisture - the water will not have time to spread throughout the soil, which will lead to its stagnation inside the pit.

Drain well

Drain well made of reinforced concrete and plastic septic tank

The outer part of the drainage system is made in the form of a pipeline and a sealed tank filled with wastewater coming from the bathhouse. To construct the reservoir, well rings and a plastic or metal septic tank are used.

As the wastewater fills, the tank is cleaned. To do this, water is pumped out using a vacuum truck and taken to a treatment plant, or a septic tank is filled with biological products that filter the water, after which it is transported through a special pipe to the lower layers of the soil, where it is gradually absorbed.

Among the advantages of a drain well are:

For proper functioning of the drainage system, the septic tank must be located below the level of the bathhouse. This will ensure natural and unimpeded flow of waste water. There must be free access to the location of the septic tank, otherwise a sewage disposal truck with a large tank will not be able to drive up to the required distance to pull the water intake hose.

Filtration well

Three-well filtration tank system

It is a well filled with fine-grained crushed stone, finely crushed brick or slag. Waste water removed from the washing room and steam bath enters the well and passes through the filter material.

As a result, a small layer of sludge and a large number of beneficial bacteria are formed that purify the water. After gradual purification, the water leaves naturally or is used for household needs for watering and irrigating the soil.

Among the disadvantages, it can be noted that the filter layer quickly becomes dirty with frequent use of the bath and requires replacement. This is a very labor-intensive process, since crushed stone or slag will have to be removed manually. Despite this, this technology is optimal for draining baths designed for a family of 4–6 people.

Ground filtration

Soil filtration using the example of a closed boiler and distribution pipes

A drainage system consisting of a closed septic tank, where wastewater accumulates, and sewer pipes through which water is drained after it is purified. Pipes are installed over a small area - this ensures uniform flow and absorption of water.

The advantages of ground filtration include:

Compared to other methods of draining waste water, ground filtration requires the use of a large area of ​​land where water will be absorbed. It is better to carry out installation work at the stage of construction of the bathhouse, when the area adjacent to it has not yet been developed.

For installation, you will need to dig a fairly large pit for installing a septic tank, which requires the use of large construction equipment and special equipment.

Stage 5 - roof installation

Roof installation

The final step to complete is to make the roof. There are several options:

• simple rafter system with a gable roof;
• soft roof (bitumen shingles or roofing felt).

The soft roof is attached directly from above. But before installation, the barrel must be covered with waterproofing material so that water does not penetrate the boards. After this, you can lay the roofing material. To make a rafter system, you need to prepare a wooden beam with a cross-section of 50x50 mm and make a frame, and the roofing material will be metal tiles or corrugated sheets.

The last thing to do is treat the inside and outside with linseed oil or a special bath composition. This is where all the work ends.

Barrel sauna on site

All the work will take you several days, but the barrel sauna will delight you, your family and friends for a long time. Staying in the steam room is beneficial for blood vessels, the nervous system and the respiratory tract. In addition, such treatment is not only useful, but also pleasant!

Also read:

• How to make a broom for a bath.

Advantages of a homemade septic tank

Despite the fact that manufacturers offer a fairly wide range of treatment systems, the design and construction of homemade septic tanks (for example, from barrels) is quite relevant.

The hand-held device option is in demand for the following reasons:

• the ability to reduce costs to a minimum by purchasing components, as they say, at random - where it is cheaper, and secondly, using existing means at hand;
• installation of equipment can be carried out according to the so-called modular scheme, having previously calculated options for adding and complicating the system.

Let's say you first equip a toilet. In the future, you connect a bathhouse, a kitchen sink, even a garage sink to the cleaning system. Of course, this will be easily feasible only if the “tie-in” points are prepared in advance - pipe bends brought to the surface or close to it, reserved for a time.

The construction of a septic tank from barrels will allow organizing an autonomous sewage system with the disposal of neutralized and clarified wastewater at minimal cost.

No one knows the weak points of the treatment system and its capabilities better than the master who built the septic tank. Although you should not allow shortcomings, only he will take them into account during operation.

It is no secret that manufacturers and sellers of any equipment, as a rule, do not inform buyers about the shortcomings, “stressing” only the advantages of the septic system. A self-builder will know what can let him down.

Knowing the approximate norms of water consumption by the family, taking into account the frequency of residence and the characteristics of the area around the house as a whole (type of soil and groundwater level), you can avoid both unnecessary expenditure of effort and money, as well as “accidents” caused by poor throughput of the purification system.

A septic tank made from barrels operates on the principle of multi-section settling tanks, which, as a result of overflow and settling, ensure the separation of wastewater into water and sludge. After leaving the septic tank, clarified and purified up to 65% water is discharged into the ground, and sludge accumulates at the bottom of the sump until it is pumped out by sewer trucks.

You will learn the intricacies of constructing a septic tank that operates without emitting odor and does not require pumping from another popular article on our website.

Ground filtration method

In this method, the main thing is the organization of a pipe system through which the liquid will be supplied to the sewer. The system will be distributed over the entire area of ​​the site so that the water has time to go through several stages of filtration before draining.

Filtration is carried out according to the principle of drainage: the first stage is to install a grate on the pipe (in the initial section) to catch large waste. Then, in the future, the water flows through a section of pipes covered with large filter material. The last stage is a fine filter, that is, coarse sand.

Thus, the water from the drains will be filtered throughout the entire site while simultaneously creating an additional source of irrigation . This method is suitable only in case of low groundwater, since the location of the pipes must be more than 0.5 meters above the water level.