If the stove in a bathhouse is often compared to its heart, then the canopy is the soul of the steam room. The basic sensations of our relaxed and steamed bodies depend on its convenience and safety. It is this thought that makes many owners take on making their own canopy. How to make a bath canopy with your own hands so that it lasts long and reliably?
For an error-free result, you need to think through and consistently go through several stages:
- location;
- material;
- design.
Blueprints
If you decided to make a shelf for a bathhouse with your own hands, then first you need to draw up a drawing of it.
To make a clear diagram, first of all, you should take into account the dimensions of the room, the location of the future structure, as well as the height of the ceiling in the steam room. In order to make your plans a reality, you should familiarize yourself with the standard dimensions of such structures:
- To lie on a shelf with your knees bent, you will need a bench 1.5 m long.
- The 1.8 m long bench will allow any average user to lie down on it without bending their knees. In this case, a lot depends on the individual parameters of the person - sometimes even a two-meter bench may not be enough.
- The shelves can have a minimum width of 40 cm. This parameter most often belongs to the lower tier, which is usually used as a footrest. This step is comfortable to stand on, but you can also sit down.
- Most often, bath benches have a width of 60 cm. This parameter is optimal, but is not entirely suitable for steaming in a supine position.
- To sit sitting (with your legs pressed) across the bench, you will need a structure with a width of 90 cm. A user with any physiological parameters will be able to lie on such a bed.
- The widest wooden shelf is 150 cm in size. It is comfortable not only to sit on, but also to lie on.
When designing shelves for a bath, it is important to take into account the installation height of all components:
- 1.1-1.2 m - experts recommend maintaining this distance between the lowest step and the second shelf.
- 40-60 cm - this gap is optimal if done between the first and second shelves.
- 20 cm is the minimum permitted distance that should be left between the floor and the step located at the very bottom.
- 1.5-1.8 m - these dimensional values are the minimum for the length of the bath shelf.
When drawing up a design project for a steam room, you need to pay special attention to the layout of the shelves in the room:
- There are 1-3 rows along one of the walls of the room, while the shelves can be installed one above the other.
- There are also L-shaped designs. In such options, any number of steps is possible. For example, there may be two or three along each partition. The upper and lower parts can be located along the longest wall, and the middle one along the shorter one located next door.
- There are also models in which there are two parallel structures located along walls opposite each other. These options are reminiscent of a compartment in a train carriage. These shelves can be either symmetrical or uneven with signs of asymmetry.
After this, it will be more convenient for the owner to choose the optimal solution. Moreover, you can correctly calculate the required volume of lumber based on the size of the benches.
It is not difficult to draw up a design for bath benches - to do this, you just need to take into account all the parameters and the expected location of the structure. If you have doubts about the correctness of your actions, then it is better to hire specialists who will prepare a finished drawing.
Method of placement of canopies
Canopies are installed along a blank wall. There are no windows, doors or ventilation holes. Before installation, the steam room is measured, after which a drawing is drawn up. The drawing indicates “strategic important” points:
· boiler for heating water;
· points for securing benches.
The number of levels is calculated based on the size of the steam room. For small rooms, two-level structures are used. Based on the drawings, the amount of material that will be needed for the work is calculated (with a margin of 5-10%).
When assembling canopies yourself, a number of rules are taken into account:
Layout
The area of the bathhouse is an important factor for determining the location of the canopy and the number of its tiers. After all, when they create a canopy in a bathhouse with their own hands, they focus on the longest wall. But with the obligatory consideration of the absence of direct steam from the stove into the steaming space, as well as drafts. Depending on the size, the bath canopy allows you to sit, recline or lie down.
Typically, canopies are made of two or three levels to allow you to choose a more comfortable temperature zone. In the classic three-stage version, the middle tier is made stationary. The collapsible design, where the upper and lower shelves are removable, allows for better drying of the wooden parts of the bathhouse.
Along one wall there can be stepped and compartment options for the arrangement of shelves. The most economical option for arranging the canopy is like in a sleeping car compartment, one shelf above the other. They are attached with the ability to fold, freeing up space in the bathhouse if necessary. With the third L-shaped method, one of the shelves is located on the adjacent wall.
Types of shelves for steam rooms
The market for materials and accessories for steam rooms is represented quite widely so as not to get lost in all its diversity, you need to know the main types of shelves depending on the design features:
- Benches are an excellent option for those who are used to sitting and at the same time like to chat with their interlocutor.
- Sun loungers - provide a reclining position, similar to a beach lounger.
- Loungers will be chosen by fans of relaxation while lying down. Previously, in bathhouses they traditionally preferred the latter placement option in order to properly steam and at the same time completely relax the body. And you shouldn’t forget about the massage procedure with a broom - after all, it’s done while lying down.
Lounger for a steam room
But this is all a matter of taste preferences. And for greater clarity, below is a photo selection of the main configurations of bath shelves.
What material is best to make a bath shelf from?
Many people advise using material made from leaf trees for these purposes. The reason for this choice is quite simple to explain: coniferous boards at high temperatures release resin, which, if heated strongly, can not only stain the body, but also cause a burn.
Experts recommend choosing boards made of material that has low thermal conductivity. Such wood has a heating limit. If the boards do not get very hot, then you can sit and lie on them without experiencing discomfort. Let's consider what types of wood are most often used to make a bathhouse shelf with your own hands.
The work should begin with the choice of wood for the shelf
Aspen. Aspen is a deciduous tree. This material is common, so it is not difficult to find and buy. Many people note the healing properties of such boards. Among the technical characteristics of such material are strength, resistance to rotting and long service life.
Linden. Boards made from this wood are considered the best in terms of price-quality ratio. Another advantage of linden products is that they have low thermal conductivity and a presentable appearance. Shelves made of linden boards are aesthetically pleasing and pleasing to the eye.
Products made from such material are easy to process, so it is recommended to buy them for people who have no previous experience in working with wood. Making a linden shelf in a bathhouse with your own hands is easier than constructing it from another material. When heated, linden boards emit a very light and pleasant woody smell, which has a calming effect. In addition, they are easy to care for. One of the disadvantages of this material is that it darkens over time. However, this does not in any way affect the performance characteristics of the tree.
Maple. Many experts note that this tree species is a good alternative to linden boards. Products made from this material are more durable and therefore practically do not deform over time. Like linden boards, elements made from maple are great for shelf organization.
It is recommended to use hardwood for the manufacture of shelves and benches.
Poplar. This material is distinguished by its whitish tint and is easy to process. For beginners, this is one of the best options, but products made from this wood are not strong enough. Therefore, it is recommended to use poplar for the manufacture of decorative shelf elements.
Abashi (African oak). Bathroom furniture is often made from this material. African oak is also suitable for a shelf in a sauna. This material is highly resistant to moisture and high temperatures. In addition, African oak boards have low thermal conductivity, which contributes to the ease of use of furniture.
The surface of products made from such wood is very smooth, and its structure favors quick drying. Many experts put this material first in the ratings of the most suitable tree species for shelving.
It is important to choose wood that is resistant to high temperatures and moisture, in which case the shelves can last for many years
Alder. Durable and reliable material, which is highly resistant to deformation. The thermal conductivity of alder boards is one of the lowest, so this wood is an excellent solution for bath furniture.
The choice of a particular material depends on several factors. First of all, this is a financial component. In addition, bath furniture must be able to withstand high temperatures and high humidity, as well as be durable and comfortable. Individual preferences play a big role when choosing material for shelves and benches.
Information about the material and number of boards is recorded in a do-it-yourself diagram. How to make shelves in a bathhouse is a question that many people ask. The answer to this can be obtained by studying the types of bath benches, their features and assembly instructions.
Floor boards: types of material used as flooring
Several types of wood flooring are used to finish the floor. And each of them has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. Beautiful and high-quality flooring not only determines the appearance of the room, but also withstands heavy loads
This type of material can be used not only as a rough coating, but also as a finishing coating. It is made from solid wood or by gluing several elements together. Visually, this material looks like a milled board. To make a floor from a floorboard, you can use ordinary material or one made according to European standards, the so-called Euroboard. For its production, special technologies and special European equipment are used.
The quality of the second type of floor covering is usually noticeably higher. On the one hand, it has lower humidity, and on the other, high standards do not allow the presence of even small defects, for example, holes, knots, stains, etc. This surface is smoother, ideally polished, but this material is noticeably more expensive.
Obviously, it is better to purchase a Euroboard if you plan to use it for a finished floor. But ordinary material is more often used just as a rough covering, on top of which laminate or linoleum will be laid. Whether it is worth spending money on buying Euroboards is up to each buyer to decide for himself. It is recommended that you familiarize yourself with both material options to choose the most suitable one.
Solid wood floorboards may contain knots, resin, and small bluish spots
This type of floorboard is always fastened into a groove, so the only question is how to make the installation procedure as simple as possible. Rectangular tenons are common, but mating them with grooves is quite difficult, especially if there is even a slight curvature. Laying closely in this case is a complex procedure. Sometimes, in order to make the task easier, the boards are sawn into pieces. But the appearance of the floor covering is greatly deteriorated.
A good option for fixation is quarters. In this case, one of the boards is cut half the width at the top, and the other - in the same way at the bottom. This is a very simple way of fixing, and this floor looks really beautiful.
Glued laminated boards are made from several elements, glued together in such a way as to provide additional strength. In this case, the fibers are arranged so that throughout the entire period of use, each element does not lose its original appearance and characteristics.
Glued-laminated floorboards have a high price due to the complex manufacturing technology
Drying of such boards is almost completely eliminated, which allows the floor to remain level. Laying such a coating is a rather labor-intensive procedure. In addition, laminated wood has a high cost due to complex manufacturing technology.
The main advantage of glued boards is its high resistance to heavy loads. That is, in rooms where there is heavy furniture or high foot traffic, this option will be simply irreplaceable. In addition, this material is often used to decorate children's rooms to provide the floor with an attractive appearance and the necessary durability.
Due to its structure, laminated boards tolerate moisture well. And although it should not be placed in a bathroom or bathhouse, where the humidity is too high and almost constant, it is perfect for ordinary living spaces, even for the kitchen.
The decking board is characterized by a special wavy surface. This is an ideal option for arranging rooms with high humidity, for example, a bathroom, bathhouse. In addition to being highly resistant to moisture, the rough surface reduces the risk of slipping and falling on wet floors.
Among the features of these boards, it is worth noting the presence of special compensation grooves, which are small in size (only a few millimeters), but perfectly relieve excess stress. This is necessary due to exposure to precipitation and sun.
Layout
The area of the bathhouse is an important factor for determining the location of the canopy and the number of its tiers. After all, when they create a canopy in a bathhouse with their own hands, they focus on the longest wall. But with the obligatory consideration of the absence of direct steam from the stove into the steaming space, as well as drafts. Depending on the size, the bath canopy allows you to sit, recline or lie down.
Typically, canopies are made of two or three levels to allow you to choose a more comfortable temperature zone. In the classic three-stage version, the middle tier is made stationary. The collapsible design, where the upper and lower shelves are removable, allows for better drying of the wooden parts of the bathhouse.
Along one wall there can be stepped and compartment options for the arrangement of shelves. The most economical option for arranging the canopy is like in a sleeping car compartment, one shelf above the other. They are attached with the ability to fold, freeing up space in the bathhouse if necessary. With the third L-shaped method, one of the shelves is located on the adjacent wall.
The ideal length for the canopy so that the average person can lie on it freely at full height without bending their legs. Typically the minimum bench length dimensions used are:
- sun lounger – 180–220 cm;
- recliner – 150 cm;
- seat – 40–90 cm.
The most important dimensions for the height of the canopy tiers are the distance from the floor and ceiling of the bathhouse, the optimal location of the upper and lower shelves. The main point of these dimensions is that there is enough space so that an average adult can sit down without hindrance when taking a steam bath. And also so that the steamer or massage therapist does not take uncomfortable, crooked positions during the procedures. Recommended height:
- from the ceiling to the top canopy – 110 cm;
- interlevel height – 60–80 cm.
The standard width of the canopy is considered to be 60 cm, but the upper bed should have a larger transverse dimension - 90 cm. It is quite acceptable to reduce or increase all dimensions to suit the existing standards of the bathhouse room. If the width of the main canopy is designed for two steamers, then this will already be paid. How to make a canopy in a bathhouse to suit the needs of a particular family is up to the owner to decide.
The constituent elements of any standard canopy are:
- frame - support post made of beams;
- the surface of sun loungers, seats made of boards;
- backrest for sitting on the top bunk.
All parts of the canopy must be from the same type of wood.
It is not advisable to use material made from coniferous trees, since with constant heating they begin to release resins that will stick to the bodies of vacationers. The minimum resin content of such popular hardwood species in our country:
- Linden - healing properties, homogeneous structure, darkens over time under the influence of steam and humidity.
- Aspen is relatively inexpensive, has a healing effect, is resistant to moisture, and never rots.
- Alder is a dense wood with healing properties.
- Poplar has a uniform texture; after drying, the wood becomes hard.
The wood of these trees tolerates high humidity, frequent temperature changes, and has a low level of thermal conductivity. Despite all these wonderful properties, they are additionally treated with special natural oils to protect against mold. Under no circumstances should it be impregnated with any chemicals or varnished.
Experienced craftsmen know that wood material is classified by quality. We recommend making your own canopy only from “Extra” or “A” quality wood. In appearance, this smoothly planed wood is distinguished by the absence of knots, chips and cracks. The more knots there are on the material, the more susceptible it will be to rapid destruction under extreme steam room conditions.
In sanded wood, all sharp corners should be smoothed with a chamfer to protect the skin of bathhouse visitors from possible cuts. Boards for flooring sunbeds and seats will last a long time if their width does not exceed four times the thickness. That is, in order for the boards to dry quickly and not crack, they must be thin enough.
To prevent the structure from swaying and creaking, the racks-bars for the canopy frame should have a cross-sectional size of 50×70 mm or 65×15 mm. Fasteners must be made of galvanized iron. When choosing the old fastening method, it will be necessary to drill holes at the joints for oak wedges - tenons. To avoid burns, the heads of metal screws - self-tapping screws or anchor bolts - are buried deep in the wood and protected with special decorative caps.
Requirements for basic parameters
A Russian bath, like a Finnish sauna, requires maintaining perfect order in the steam room. This rule primarily applies to torn leaves from birch and oak brooms. In order for the room to be fresh and have a pleasant aroma, and not the smell of musty leaves, cleaning should be carried out especially carefully, including behind the benches. Therefore, when calculating floor parameters, the gap between the boards and the floor must be taken into account. It would seem like such a trifle, but it must be taken into account in construction.
In fact, the requirements for the main parameters of shops are:
- Compliance with rational dimensions for the height of steps;
- Compliance with the dimensions of the width of the benches;
- Taking into account the requirements for the length of sunbeds;
- Ensuring the structural strength of the floors, their functionality and rationality of location in the steam room.
The benches in the bathhouse must comply with the width dimensions.
But before moving on to revealing each of the parameters, it is worth briefly considering what the design of the benches in the steam room consists of.
The simplest and most functional is the frame structure of the floors. The basis is a slatted frame, one side of which is built from bars, the second side is made in the form of planks, tightly attached to the load-bearing walls. The boards of the benches are attached at one end to the frame, and at the other, they lie on a block against the wall. The lower steps have two support points - one on the post of the upper tier step, the second support point is a smaller post.
This scheme allows you to build a durable structure that will provide not only strength, but also functionality. Everything else is just subtleties that will be considered during the work process.
Floor height
Correct selection of floor height parameters is very important for a steam room. Typically, the ceiling height of a steam room is usually taken at the level of 2.1-2.25 m. A high ceiling creates an additional volume that needs to be heated, and the temperature there will be higher, while at the level of 1.2-1.6 meters the temperature for comfortable steam will not be enough. That's why 2.10-2.45 are the most optimal parameters for ceiling height. And if so, then the parameters for the height of the floors will be:
- The lower tier of the beds is 40-45 cm.
- Middle tier 80 cm;
- The upper tier is 120 cm from the floor level.
Thus, from the top point of the floor to the ceiling there remains 1.2 meters (with a ceiling height of 2.45), which is quite enough for normal steam and working with a broom.
The height of the lower tier of 40-45 cm is determined by two parameters - the first, practical, this height is enough to remove debris after procedures using cleaning equipment. The second indicator is related to the height of the rise - it is equal to the height of three steps of a regular staircase.
The height of the second and third tiers is associated with the possibility of the most effective bathing procedures. On the top shelf, the temperature promotes the maximum beneficial effect, and it is more convenient for the bathhouse attendant to work with brooms from the first step; there is no need to reach out to whip the steamer.
Width
The standard width of the shelves is determined depending on the purpose of the tier. The lower tier is usually not used in the steam room for procedures, or is used by those who do not like to steam with a broom, but at the same time do not deny themselves the pleasure of receiving a portion of warm water steam. Oh, yes, this place is to the liking of children, here they are comfortable both in terms of the height of the shelf and the temperature in the steam room. Therefore, despite the small height of the step, its width should ensure that both an adult and a child can sit down. The width of such a bench should be from 30 to 45 cm.
The second tier is usually used by adults to warm up. But it is not recommended to make it too wide. 40-45 cm is enough.
The upper tier is the most popular, so its width should be larger; there should be enough space to lie down and sit down normally. The optimal width of such a tier is 1.2-1.4 meters.
For those who build a bathhouse themselves, the width of the widest flooring may be different; in this case, experts recommend using a simple method for calculation - measure your height, divide the result by half and add 20 cm. The result obtained will be optimal for determining the width of the top shelf.
Cavity length
This parameter is usually overlooked, especially if the steam room is made “for yourself”, that is, it is enough to be content with the fact that you can just sit and warm yourself and whip yourself with a broom. Alas, you won’t really get pleasure from such a bathhouse. Therefore, when determining sizes you need to take into account:
- The minimum length should provide the ability to lie down and bend your legs;
- The average length of a bed is equal to the average height of a person plus 15 cm;
- The optimal length is 220 cm.
DIY bath canopy
To have a pleasant steam bath and warm up your body once or twice a week, you also need furniture in the bathhouse. If you do it yourself, you can save a lot and enjoy the work done.
The cost of constructing a canopy yourself is primarily in the choice of wood. To decorate the bathhouse, only natural wood is used; the leaders in this area are: linden, aspen, birch, poplar, but not coniferous wood, which emit sticky resin for many years.
When constructing a canopy for a bathhouse with your own hands, you must follow some of the recommendations listed below.
- the height of the canopy from the floor level should not be less than 110 cm, from the ceiling to the canopy 120-140 cm.
- boards used for the canopy must be of high quality: planed and thoroughly sanded, without knots, cracks or burrs,
- the canopy flooring and supports are assembled from the same type of wood,
- rubber gaskets are placed under the support bars, which are necessary for protection from moisture and stability of the structure,
- the required distance between the support bars must be at least 60 cm.
- In order for the boards to dry quickly and not crack, it is necessary to select boards that are not very thick and not very wide.
- they should not be stuffed close to each other, but it is advisable to leave a small gap of 0.5-1.0 cm,
- the length of the canopy should be suitable for the person’s height, so that one can lie down comfortably,
- The canopy flooring is assembled without screws or nails, using wooden spikes that are driven into prepared drilled holes.
Frame assembly
The support bars on which the frame will be held are securely fastened to the walls; they are secured using anchor bolts or long self-tapping screws.
Now let's try to figure out how to make a frame.
The longitudinal bars in the design are chosen with a size of 50x100 mm, the required length of the canopy
A reliable frame is assembled from longitudinal, vertical and transverse bars. The transverse bars are fixed to the longitudinal bars, at a distance of 60 cm, and deepened by 5 cm into previously prepared cuts.
The assembled frame is installed on support bars previously fixed to the walls. For reliability, the frame is additionally attached to the walls with long self-tapping screws or anchor bolts.
The canopy flooring is installed using prepared wooden tenons. The joints must be sanded. Typically, the distance between the shelves is covered with the same boards as for flooring, leaving a gap of up to 2 cm between them, necessary for air circulation.
Many craftsmen do not advise sewing the canopy all the way to the floor, otherwise the structure will quickly rot and limit access to cleaning the room. See the photos above.
Impregnation of frame and canopy
All structural elements are coated with a special impregnation for baths, for the manufacture of which natural oils are used. Impregnation will create a protective film on the wooden structure, which during operation protects it from the formation of mold and premature rotting.
Some people find it easier to buy a canopy than to fuss with it in the evenings or on weekends, while others enjoy making it themselves.
Installation process
When installing curtains in a steam room, work begins with the upper shelves. Installation consists of the following steps:
1. Place the support block on the canopy base over the entire area of the form. Fix the bars 70 - 80 centimeters from each other.
2. Connect the rack bars with the frame base for the canopy using special self-tapping screws.
To increase the strength of the structure, a second row of beams can be installed between the support posts. The frame elements are fastened with metal corners.
3. Install the prepared frame in the steam room.
Rubberized gaskets are attached to the lower section of the bars. They perform two functions: they ensure the stability of the canopies and prevent the destruction of the tree from moisture;
5. Inspect the surface of the canopy and polish it
– if necessary. Apply a composition of oily components to the wood, which protects the material from moisture and rotting.
When installing canopies, nails made of wood or metal are used. Installation of metal caps requires penetration into the wood so as not to burn the skin when heating the steam room.
If it is impossible to bury the nails, then they need to be covered with plastic caps.
Covering the gaps between the rows of canopy with beams is considered an optional, but desirable step. The exception is the gap from the floor to the bottom shelf - it is prohibited to cover it. If you ignore this condition, problems with air circulation will arise in the steam room, which will prevent the room from drying out.
To create comfortable conditions, the top row is equipped with backrests and headrests. Footrests or small benches will also help make canopies more comfortable.
Making a strong frame for the shelves in the bathhouse
Source
Features of the steam room and furniture for it
Everyone knows that the smaller the steam room, the warmer it will be. Current heating costs will be lower, since a small room will need to produce less steam. Therefore, for a good arrangement of the steam room, simple and simply even furniture is always useful. Often, ladders to climb onto shelves have several steps at once. It's convenient and simple.
If the room for the steam room also allows you to create a separate area for a sofa and a chaise lounge, then you can easily recreate this yourself. A small sofa with a rounded shape will look attractive.
What to do with a fairly small steam room?
It doesn’t matter if the steam room is so small that an ordinary shelf can only take up space, and it simply won’t be convenient to use such a room. In this case, rather non-standard shelf dimensions help out. It could be just a small triangular structure in the corner of such a room. The triangle should only be made isosceles. You just need to make it in such a way that it does not take up much space, but is also convenient to use.
How to care for shelves?
Not only the shelves, but also the entire steam room room must be kept clean, ventilated and dried. It is very good to dry the beds in the sun. And in this sense, it makes more sense to make them removable.
To clean them, you must use only clean warm water. And to dry the shelves as quickly as possible, you should wipe them with a dry, moisture-absorbing cloth and ventilate the sauna room after each use.
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DIY bathhouse shelves: step-by-step guide
If you are planning to make shelves for a bath yourself, you should choose a suitable tree (usually one species is used for sun loungers and wall decoration): linden, aspen or alder. It is worth noting that of these three species, alder has the most attractive appearance, aspen is most suitable in terms of performance indicators, and linden is the most budget-friendly solution.
The following are taken into account:
- the expected number of visitors, their weight and dimensions;
- size and shape of the steam room;
- type of seats (stationary, reclining, retractable);
- planned temperature regime (and humidity level);
- the preferred option for staying in the steam room is sitting, lying down, with active treatment with a broom, supply of steam;
- methods of preparing materials.
Below is a shelf in a bathhouse (drawing) with a side view and isometric view.
The indicated dimensions and heights of the shelves in the bathhouse are standard; they can be slightly changed in accordance with personal preferences.
The installation stages (how to make shelves in a bathhouse) are shown in step-by-step photos and a short video.
After choosing a design, you need to decide where to attach the shelf - on the wall (as in the step-by-step guide) or the floor. At the same time, we should not forget about the need for frequent cleaning.
Do-it-yourself bathhouse curtains are made using wooden fasteners or fastened with metal parts so that they are hidden under the tree. Otherwise, the metal may severely burn your skin. Typically, self-tapping screws with plugs (wooden or plastic), corners “from the inside out,” oak or pegs made from the same wood are used for fastening.
Important:
- Untreated, poorly dried, wood with knots or cracks cannot be used for shelves;
- the material of the frame and the flooring must match;
- the wall material at the attachment point must be processed no less carefully than the wood for the sun loungers;
- The dimensions of the shelves in the steam room are selected individually, but with a focus on standards.
Preparation of material
Timber and boards used for the construction of bath shelves must meet the following requirements:
- The material must be of high quality.
- No visible defects or defects.
- The wood should be well planed and smooth.
- No knots, cracks or nicks.
One type of wood is used for the entire structure of the benches. In order for bath furniture to dry out faster, thin boards should be used for its manufacture. The width of the board should be 4-5 times its thickness. With this ratio, it will not sag or crack.
It is not recommended to coat the wood for shelves with varnish or any other chemical composition (read: “How and with what to treat shelves in a bathhouse - proven treatment products”).
How many cubes are there in a floorboard and how to figure out how much it is: 1 cube of material
For the convenience of buyers, there is a special classification of wood by type and class, which makes it easy to select the required material.
Class | Quality |
Extra | Maximum smooth surface without knots or any defects |
A | Smooth surface without cracks or chips. Minor knots are allowed, no more than every 150 cm. Small blue spots may occur, no more than two surface cracks, resin |
IN | No more than 4 knots per 150 cm, no more than 2 surface cracks, light defects and damage, resin |
WITH | The lowest class, as a result of which the presence of surface cracks, 2 knots, contrasting color stripes, blue stains and even some mechanical damage is allowed |
Understanding what types of boards there are, you can easily choose the option that is suitable for a particular type of housing. After all, it is completely pointless to overpay for extra-class if you plan to rough-finish the floor, and it is also not recommended to make the final coating from a low-quality material. The table will help you decide on the required class of material, choose it wisely and plan costs.
Floorboards, like all other lumber, are measured in cubes. However, not all buyers understand how many boards are contained in 1 cube and how to determine how much material is needed for a particular room. Let's look at how to deal with these issues using a simple calculation example.
We invite you to familiarize yourself with the floor made from regular edged boards
To calculate the amount of material in 1 m³, you need to know the volume of one board. Determining this is quite simple: the thickness of the board is multiplied by its width and length. As an example, consider a product with dimensions of 35x100x6000 mm. For convenience, all indicators need to be converted into meters and multiplied: 0.035 * 0.1 * 6 = 0.021 m³ - as a result of performing arithmetic operations, we found out that the volume of one board is 0.021 m³.
To find out the volume of one board, you need to multiply the thickness by the width and length
For the convenience of buyers, there is also a special table of standard indicators, which shows how many boards 6 meters long are in one cubic meter.
Board size (mm) | Volume(m³) | Quantity per 1 m³ (pcs.) |
25x100 | 0,015 | 66,6 |
25x150 | 0,0225 | 44,4 |
25x200 | 0,03 | 33,3 |
40x100 | 0,024 | 41,6 |
40x150 | 0,036 | 27,7 |
40x200 | 0,048 | 20,8 |
50x50 | 0,015 | 66,6 |
Multi-stage
At first glance, the arrangement of shelves may raise some questions, for example, why they are almost always a multi-stage design.
The reason, in fact, is very ordinary. When heated, water vapor and hot air rise upward, while the temperature near the floor is significantly lower. Thus, each user will be able to independently choose in which temperature regime it is more convenient for him to be: at the bottom, where it is not so hot, or at the very top of the steam room “pyramid”, where the temperature is very high. Therefore, if the owner of the steam room decided to make shelves with his own hands, then it is absolutely not recommended to deviate from the usual stepped structure.
It is worth seeing that in small steam rooms the lower tier is often located almost at floor level, which allows for natural ventilation and makes it more effective. It is also important to keep in mind that the upper tier will be made larger than the lower ones (so that it can be used as a bed), while the distance to the ceiling from the bed should not be less than 100-120 cm.
Surface treatment
Wood impregnations
After installation of the canopies, you will need to worry about protecting their surface from destruction, as well as giving the finished structure a more attractive appearance. But before treating the surfaces of the shelves using any of the known methods, you need to carefully sand them using a special grinding tool. When choosing a protective decorative composition, you should take into account the fact that not all known types of wood coatings can be used at elevated temperatures.
Thus, standard paint and varnish impregnations are completely unacceptable for steam rooms, since at high temperatures they form a film on the surface of the wood.
It is for this reason that steam rooms use special compounds and impregnations that are resistant to high temperatures and moisture and do not form a film. As an example of such a coating, we can consider the universal composition of the brand “Supi Saunavaha” (Tikkurila), made on the basis of natural wax.
Rules of care
Over time, the canopy may darken, the protective composition may wear off and wash out. The first problem can be solved with the help of bleaching agents.
Efficiency of wood bleach Source kelohouse.ru
It is important to note that they contain chlorine derivatives or hydrogen peroxide. Bleach lightens wood, helps destroy fungus, mold, and bacteria.
The penetration depth is determined by the percentage of the base component. Since active substances can cause allergies and harm health, the room after their use must be ventilated for 1-2 days.
Before you make the bench in the bathhouse updated, it must be thoroughly washed, wiped and dried. It is better to apply thick protective decorative compositions by rubbing in; liquid ones are processed using a brush or sponge. After 24 hours, excess oil can be easily removed with a cloth.
Standard design of steam room shelves
It’s not for nothing that a bath shelf is often simply called a bench. Yes, these are benches of different heights, arranged according to a special pattern. Their design includes two main elements:
- A frame that serves as the basis for attaching planks to a stationary deck or as a support for a dismountable deck system. Most often, the frame is constructed from support posts, reminiscent of bench legs, and connected by transverse jumper boards. Less commonly, the frame is made according to the principle of a stair stringer, to which the steps of the bath shelves are mounted. Using technology borrowed from Finnish dry steam lovers, the frame is sometimes built without supports in the form of a railway shelf attached to the walls of the steam room.
- The flooring is made of linden or aspen boards, carefully sanded with gaps of 1.0-2.0 cm. As already mentioned, it is either attached to the frame or individual components are knocked together, like floor ladders. It is more convenient to remove and ventilate loose flooring outside the walls of the steam room. It serves as a seat, a bed, and a podium for the tireless bathhouse attendant, who treats the mortal bodies of his clients with a fragrant broom. According to the principle of constructing the flooring, they also knock together: seat backs, sides of shelves, special “bath pillows” and devices for taking a relaxed “lying” pose with the legs positioned at head level or higher.
Since the steam room is usually small in size, since a small room is easier, more economical and quicker to bring to the required condition, the furniture for its arrangement has an extremely simple rectangular geometry in plan, profile and frontal view. The imagination of craftsmen usually justifiably draws the semblance of a staircase with two or three large steps. True, these steps may resemble chaise lounges or corner sofas with a rounded shape. But such delights are indulged mainly by the owners of bathhouses with large steam rooms, who do not mind taking up space with their personal quirks.
Why are the bath shelves multi-stage?
According to the laws of physics familiar from school, steam and heated air tend to rush upward. Having given off the healing hot power and cooled under the ceiling, the air flow is partially expelled by the ventilation system of the steam room, and partially returns down, reflected from the upper ceiling by a special ceiling system. That’s why it’s much hotter at the top than at the bottom of the sauna “pyramid.”
Multi-stage functionality allows users to independently choose the optimal steaming mode for them with the appropriate temperature background. Craftsmen who decide to build shelves in a bathhouse with their own hands will have to adhere to the traditional “staircase” configuration in order to ensure the opportunity to both enjoy the most intense steam and a gentle microclimate.
In Russian steam rooms, two regiments were most often arranged. But no one forbids making three, as long as there is enough space to install them. In the sense that there is space left for the movement of people receiving bath procedures without traumatic consequences.
Beautiful examples
A bath shelf is not always simple and inconspicuous. Sometimes such designs transform a room, making it more comfortable and welcoming.
For example, a three-tier corner shelf made of light wood with a rounded edge will look amazing if you integrate upward-facing spotlights into its back. This beautiful furniture looks harmonious in combination with a compact stove with an open stove in the shape of a pipe.
A three-level shop looks very beautiful and fashionable, in which the inside of each step is equipped with blue or dark blue LED lighting. The diode strip should also be added to the backrest located above the seats. To dilute the “sea” glow, you can install corner lamps with warm yellow light lamps above the shelf.
A light wooden shelf installed along one wall will look great in a small steam room, in which one of the partitions is decorated with stonework. It is permissible to make the remaining surfaces of the room less noticeable - they can be sheathed, for example, with clapboard.
A shelf assembled from boards of different shades will look very original in a steam room, especially if the various details of its design are made into shapes - cut at an angle. The resulting design should be supplemented with warm wall lamps above the back and a white or yellow LED strip located inside the seats.
For a bathhouse in a slightly casual rustic style, you can build a rough shelf made of dark wood with a pronounced structure. Of course, the surface of the wood must be well processed and finished, regardless of the chosen style. Such designs do not need to be supplemented with LED strips - it is enough to install small lamps with wooden shades above them.
To learn how to properly make shelves for a bathhouse, avoiding common mistakes, see the following video.
Criteria for selecting electric current consumers and fittings
For each bathhouse room, you need to select devices taking into account operating conditions. According to the international classification, the housing is marked with the IPXX code. XX – two numbers indicating the degree of protection against penetration of foreign objects (first) and moisture (second). Get acquainted with the proposed tables, they will help you choose the optimal devices for each bath room.
Class of housing protection against penetration of foreign objects and dust
Housing protection class against water penetration
Let us determine, for example, which lamps need to be chosen for the most “complex” room in the bathhouse – the steam room. There is no dust there, it is enough that the case protects against penetration of objects ≥ 2.5 mm (the first digit on the code should be “3”). In the steam room you can not only take a steam bath, but also pour water over your body. This means that the housing must protect against such influence; according to the table, the digital designation corresponds to “5”. This means that the lamp housing in the steam room must be designated IP35. We talk in such detail about the different protection classes not only because it directly affects safety, but also because the protection class of the housing significantly changes the price of the devices.
The same parameters should be used to select mounting boxes, sockets, etc.
Shelves in the sauna on the balcony.
- that the apartment will not be burdened with sauna ventilation aspects.
- As for the screams about the fire. So, any purple household appliance (for example, an electric stove) can also start a fire in the kitchen. The same cable has the same probability of short circuit and fire. And what if something happens on the balcony? the author will even be able to pour it in more easily from a fire extinguisher.
- This is a balcony. The apartment will be a little off to the side. In case of force majeure. extremely good.
- block off half the balcony with a wooden box,
- block natural light,
- leave the hood window in the direction of the glass (you’ll appreciate it in winter),
- complete lack of ventilation on the balcony
- A household extension cord was used as the power cable.
Sources:
https://saunaljux.ru/stroim-banju/polok-dlia-bani-svoimi-rykami.html https://www.novamett.ru/banya/polok
Design, manufacturing and equipment
To begin with, after all, a little theory and even linguistics. It’s not a fact that you will read all the materials about shelves, so let’s repeat:
ON A NOTE! It is most correct to say: in the singular “shelves”, not “shelf” and not “canopy” (there is a shelf in our room, but a canopy above the bed), in the plural – “shelves” (shelves in the closet, shelves in the steam room , yes in the army).
The structure of a shelf can be described as a wooden platform, a lounger or even a conditional perch, consisting of one or several tiers, which, in turn, can consist of separate parts, or can form a monolithic stationary structure.
Moreover, parts can be either individual tiers or their components. In the latter case, we are talking about a solid frame and removable flooring.
The simplest shelf is a high lounger with a step for ease of climbing onto it. An excellent solution for lovers of Russian baths, who are frequented by professional steamers.
But the prevalence of the sauna in Russia has led to the fact that the shelves in the bathhouse and steam room began to be multi-tiered, under the ceiling, and the vertical parts of the “steps” were sewn up tightly. All this is correct and appropriate, but only for a Finnish bath.
This is not the place or time to discuss the winning (or losing) of the bathhouse option, in which the owner is trying to combine two modes; for this, you can read something from the section on stoves, where a lot was said about the modes and their compatibility. But, as a fact, many make shelves in the bathhouse with their own hands for both types.
IMPORTANT! In a Russian bath, the preferred position is lying down, but you can also sit. In the sauna, it is preferable to sit higher and sweat profusely, but lying down is also not prohibited. Of course, the difference between a lounger and a seat is only in width
You can’t lie on a narrow shelf; on a shelf that’s too wide, it’s uncomfortable to lean on the backrest; it’s too far away
Of course, the difference between a lounger and a seat is only in width. You can’t lie on a narrow shelf; on a shelf that’s too wide, it’s uncomfortable to lean on the backrest; it’s too far away.
Arrangement of shelves in a bathhouse: this is more comfortable to lie on
And sit on these
As for how to build shelves in a bathhouse with your own hands, more on this a little later, but now we can say that the work is not too difficult, especially if you don’t bother, put everything on screws with a screwdriver and don’t worry too much about the future, in which the metal joints in the wood will definitely become loose.
BY THE WAY! Here is an important point of self-determination - should it be attached to the wall or made as a separate structure? The price of the issue is rot, which forms in a poorly drying joint with the wall.
Frame and decking
Support - a canopy frame made of timber for subsequent flooring with boards can be fixed both on the floor and on the wall. The floor frame makes cleaning a little more difficult, and the wall frame may become deformed due to shrinkage of the walls. A reliable frame is assembled from vertical posts, longitudinal and transverse crossbars - jumpers.
To make a safe canopy for a bathhouse with your own hands, experienced craftsmen recommend starting work from the top tier, installing two beams horizontally across the width of the canopy. These beams form a support post, and between them transverse struts are placed every 50 cm, like stiffening ribs. When installing a system of vertical racks, all surfaces of parts in contact with the floor are insulated using specialized rubberized gaskets. In addition, this gives additional stability to the structure.
For those owners who are at least a little familiar with carpentry, this bath canopy is a simple structure similar to a bench. How creatively you can approach the process of creating an ordinary canopy can be seen from the many images on the Internet. Warm colors and the smell of natural wood in themselves already create comfort in any room. And the master’s ability to put a piece of his soul into his works will give the steam room an atmosphere of hospitality and care.
Several options for a comfortable bath canopy
A deck made of boards is attached to a frame made of beams, where air should circulate freely and water should drain freely. When installing, a gap of 5–20 mm is left between the edges of all boards, the principle of which is also preserved for the floor and walls. The boards are supposed to be slightly tilted so that water does not stagnate and is not absorbed into the wood. The inter-level vertical space is also covered with boards while maintaining gaps, providing access under the canopy for cleaning.
We suggest you read: How to properly make lining in a bathhouse
Peculiarities
If you have decided to install a bathhouse on your property, you should remember that it should be as comfortable as possible. To do this, it is necessary to competently equip the resulting structure, equipping it with all the necessary components.
Elements such as shelves are very important for a bath structure. These parts are designed for installation in a steam room. Most often they have several tiers.
Their design features primarily depend on the area of the room and its height. It is customary to place shelves for a steam room either along one of the walls, or near two walls that are parallel to each other. There are also corner structures in which the arrangement of tiers is completely different.
In real Russian baths, shelves with three tiers are usually installed. It is also known from physics lessons at school that heat always rushes upward, so it is always cooler on the bottom shelf in the steam room than on the top one.
When designing shelves for a steam room, it is necessary to take into account that an adult should easily fit on the top tier without resting against the ceiling - this is another important feature that should not be underestimated when arranging a bath room.
A high-quality shelf in a bathhouse should have low thermal conductivity, otherwise it will be impossible to stand on it, as it will become very hot in the steam room. That is why such structures are made of wood and not metal, because it heats up very quickly.
Also, well-made shelves made of suitable materials can easily withstand high temperatures and temperature changes. Under such conditions, these structures do not deform, rot or collapse.
There are many options for placing a shelf in a steam room. It is possible to build a suitable structure for a room of any layout and size. For example, for a compact steam room it is permissible to make corner benches that take up little free space, but remain convenient for users to spend their time comfortably.
A little about the design
I won’t describe for a long time the precise design of canopies and benches, since there is plenty of such information on the Internet, I’ll collect point by point only what you need to take into account when installing it:
- Choose resin-free canopy decking material!
- The thickness of the boards must be at least 50 mm
- The material of the bars for the frame can also be used from coniferous wood, if the design allows you not to touch them
- Boards need to be planed, remember, a planed board rots 70% less than an unplaned one
- If possible, make the flooring collapsible so you can clean up underneath it
- Make a canopy with technological gaps of at least 1 cm for moisture drainage and natural ventilation
- Leave a gap of 2-3 cm from the wall for unhindered drainage of water along the walls
- Do not bring the lounger closer to the stove than 25 cm
- Treat your canopy with special canopy oil
- The width of the lounger must be at least 60 cm
- Determine the width of the bench at your choice, but keep in mind that if you go to the bathhouse more than one, it will be more convenient for you to soar from a wide step
- The main canopy bed is measured not from the floor, but from the ceiling, the distance should be at least 110 cm
- The level of stones in the stove, as a rule, should be lower than the main deck in the steam room
All of the above, personal experience of the Beri Banyu company, we recommend watching a video about a simple canopy from one of our clients:
PS We have prepared 50 mm thick boards for all our clients, you won’t get burned on our canopies!
Have fun!
How to change the facades on a kitchen unit yourself
What could be better than a bath? This is a wonderful relaxation, healing of the whole body, cleansing of waste and toxins. Bathing in the bathroom cannot be compared to such an important ritual. Pores open, skin breathes, metabolism improves. It’s great if you can afford to build a bathhouse in your home. Then you can bathe in the bathhouse whenever your heart desires.
When building a bathhouse, as in any other building, it is necessary to pay attention not only to the external walls, in this case the log house, but also to the internal required parts. Otherwise, all your dreams about relaxin will remain dreams
A canopy is a set of shelves on which people wash and steam in a bathhouse or sauna. There are various options for placing such a structure. You can arrange it on opposite sides of the steam room or make a circular structure. It depends on your desire and the volume of the room. You need to understand that you will be there both sitting and lying down. The dimensions of the canopy, among other things, also take into account your anthropometric data. You do this for yourself and your family members, so the design must be individual.
The most important thing is that the shelves are constructed in such a way that staying in the bathhouse is comfortable. They should not interfere, that is, be bulky and poorly distribute heat. Capacity and comfort are the main concepts in canopy construction.
What to make better from: choosing the material
What is better to make? It is clear that it is made from wood, to which, in fact, there is no alternative, but which species are most suitable? We have already written about this, so now it will be very brief.
Coniferous species should absolutely not be used in a sauna where the temperatures are high, in a Russian bath - if desired, and in mixed modes it is also not worth using at all.
Cheap aspen and linden are worthy competitors of expensive abash, because in addition to low thermal conductivity, it is not highly resistant to water, mushrooms, etc.
You can experiment with other hardwoods, taking into account their thermal conductivity (the higher the density, the higher the thermal conductivity - the easiest way to decide by eye), resistance to rotting and other characteristics. For example, oak is dense, but does not deteriorate in water. Like larch, which, by the way, does not emit resin.
Advantages and disadvantages of different types of wood: summary
Let us explain why abasha has no competitors on the market in terms of thermal conductivity. The thing is that it has a rather low density - 390 kg per cubic meter with a humidity of 12%. The same linden weighs on average 490-530 kg per cubic meter, and aspen 450. That is, cheap aspen is closest to expensive abash