Do-it-yourself bathhouse made of cinder blocks, step-by-step construction

Not a single plot of land can do without a bathhouse, especially if it is a house for permanent residence of a family. If you don’t have large savings, you can choose cinder block .

Next, we will present in detail the step-by-step construction of a bathhouse from cinder blocks with your own hands for independent construction in order to save money.

Geometry

Geometry
Wall blocks are produced in the form of rectangular parallelepipeds with 90-degree or rounded edges. Special blocks are produced for the corners of the building. In addition, stones of special non-standard shapes are made to order. Thus, one can note the good geometry of the individual products and the constructed building as a whole. And even if individual blocks have deviations in size, a one and a half centimeter layer of mortar connecting the rows will level out small (up to 3 mm) errors.

In terms of geometricity, cinder block is not inferior to brick and other stone building blocks.

Technology for performing insulation work

For high-quality and reliable thermal insulation, a whole range of insulation measures is required. That is, insulating the walls alone will not bring a tangible result - all surfaces must be sheathed from the inside with heat-insulating material. Let's take a closer look at the entire technology of insulating a bathhouse from the inside.

Floor insulation

The process of floor insulation begins almost immediately after the completion of the construction of walls and installation of the roof. You can significantly save on floor insulation if all construction waste remaining after masonry is poured into the foundation pit and compacted thoroughly

Here it is important not to overdo it and leave about 50 cm for insulation

In order to efficiently and reliably insulate the floor, you need to adhere to the following sequence of work:

• It is necessary to level the subfloor a little (with small construction waste, sand or earth) so that the insulation layer is uniform.
• Then expanded clay is poured into the space under the foundation. It is recommended to use it because it has high thermal insulation properties and excellent strength. The minimum layer should be 20–25 cm, more is possible.

• Expanded clay must be compacted thoroughly. You can spill it with water and let it sit for a few days to dry.
• Then a reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the expanded clay.
• The next step is pouring the cement mortar. Its thickness should be at least 10–15 cm.
• In the process of pouring the mortar, you need to follow the technology of a conventional screed: carefully level and smooth the surface, since this will be a subfloor.

After the screed has completely hardened (about 10–14 days), you can begin arranging the finished floor, which can be done in several ways:

• One way is to lay ceramic tiles on a cement screed using an adhesive mixture.
• Another method is to lay wooden joists and lay a plank covering over them. The advantage of this method is the ability to additionally insulate the floor of the bathhouse by laying sheets of polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam between the joists.

Wall insulation

The next technological point is the insulation of the walls of the bathhouse. The work algorithm is as follows:

• First of all, in order to insulate the walls of the bathhouse from the inside, it is necessary to mount the frame. The sheathing can be made from wooden blocks treated with water-repellent impregnations or from galvanized profiles.
• Next, a layer of waterproofing is attached to the walls; ordinary dense polyethylene will do.
• After this, sheets of insulation, for example, basalt wool, are installed between the frame. The heat insulator can be further strengthened using plastic dowels with large caps.
• The third layer should be a foil material, for example penofol. In this case, the foil should be directed into the bathhouse to reflect heat flows.
• The final stage of insulating the walls of the bathhouse is the installation of the inner lining on the frame. Most often, wooden lining or tongue and groove boards are used for these purposes.

Ceiling insulation

A set of measures for insulating a bathhouse made of cinder blocks includes thermal insulation of the ceiling. Such work begins at the construction stage.

• Wide wooden logs are used to equip the ceiling.
• From inside the bathhouse, boards are tightly packed onto them, thus creating a rough ceiling.
• Then foil material is laid between the lags on the boards.
• A layer of dense polyethylene film is spread over the foil, acting as a waterproofing barrier.
• Then the space between the joists is filled with thermal insulation material. For these purposes, mineral wool, expanded polystyrene or expanded clay are used.
• The insulation is covered with another layer of waterproofing on top and covered with boards that form the floor of the attic.

In conclusion, it is worth noting that although a cinder block bathhouse requires a special approach, you can insulate it yourself. For interior cladding, the optimal material is wooden lining, which is a natural finish with high performance characteristics.

Selecting materials and insulating a cinder block bathhouse is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. There are a number of thermal insulation products that transform the bathhouse and retain heat in it.

Scheme of a bathhouse made of cinder blocks.

Finish options

A cinder block bathhouse without additional finishing looks unaesthetic. To improve the thermal insulation and decorative qualities of the structure, it needs to be sheathed. When carrying out facing work, various finishing materials are used.

Internal

To finish the walls and ceiling inside a steam room or relaxation room, lining is most often used. This is an environmentally friendly building material that does not emit harmful substances when heated. It has excellent performance properties: it is resistant to humid environments, mechanical stress, and easily tolerates sudden temperature changes without deformation. The lining is reliable and durable. For bath conditions, it is best to use finishing materials made of aspen or alder.

To finish the recreation area, you can use a tongue and groove board. When covering the floor, both natural wood and ceramic non-glossy anti-slip tiles are used. By the way, tiles can often be found in baths, where the exit from the steam room leads directly to the relaxation room.

To decorate a bathroom or washroom, use ceramic tiles, mosaics or plastic panels. For tiling the floor surface, it is best to purchase ribbed materials whose surface is slip-resistant.

External

Exterior finishing is an important and mandatory stage in the construction of a cinder block bathhouse. External facing work is necessary to add aesthetics to the structure, as well as to protect cinder blocks from various adverse external factors. If external finishing is neglected, the mineral blocks may soon collapse.

Manufacturers offer a wide variety of materials for finishing work. Baths are often lined with siding. There is a wide range of colors for this type of finish on the market, so the buyer should not have any problems choosing the optimal palette. Due to the huge selection of colors, you can easily make your bath room interesting and original.

Decorative plaster for facade work, brick, artificial stone or tiles for building facades are also suitable for finishing. You should choose finishing materials in accordance with your taste preferences and financial capabilities.

Interior finishing final work

Preference has always been on the side of wood. It is convenient, hygienic, and easy to replace if necessary. Not to mention that different types of wood have different healing effects on the human body, and their very atmosphere is an integral part of traditional bath culture.

The tree must be one that is not capable of overheating and causing a burn to a person. For the interior decoration of the steam room, initially only deciduous varieties were used: ash, alder, birch, poplar, larch, aspen, linden. Resinous types of trees and any conifers are unsuitable for interior finishing. And the choice in the design of a washing room is practically unlimited: ceramic tiles, plasterboard, and any moisture-resistant decorative materials are appropriate here.

1. The material must be in the required condition. The lining must spend at least a day in climatic conditions comparable to bathhouses. Otherwise, it may dry out to cracks (if it is too wet) or swell (if it is dry), which will greatly deteriorate its appearance and performance properties.
2. Nail thin slats onto the finished thermal insulation with a pitch corresponding to the width of the finishing panels. Use stainless nails (bronze, copper). The best way is to assemble the panels into a groove.
3. Always mount the lining in the steam room horizontally - this will allow you to easily change the lower beams as they wear out, which will prolong the operation of the sauna for a long time.
4. Wood is best suited for flooring. Any synthetic coating is poisonous at bath temperatures and is therefore not suitable. It is not advisable to use oak - it is slippery and therefore dangerous. In addition, it has a low heat capacity. It is possible to install heated floors in the dressing room and rest room.

If you approach the construction and decoration of a bathhouse creatively and wisely, then more than one generation of lovers of paired procedures will delight with its unique design and therapeutic warmth.

Selecting materials and insulating a cinder block bathhouse is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. There are a number of thermal insulation products that transform the bathhouse and retain heat in it.

Features of the material

The construction of a cinder block bathhouse must take into account the characteristics of the material, since in most cases the owners of the sites are dissatisfied with the operation of the building.

Everything is explained by making mistakes during the independent construction of a bathhouse. First of all, the advantages and disadvantages of the material itself are determined.

Cinder block is a building stone obtained by pressing waste from steel mills.

To obtain it, blast furnace slag is used, which is pre-crushed and wetted into a liquid state.

Having mixed it with cement in a ratio of 10:1, the composition is poured into molds until it hardens. In this way, a block of different void ratios is obtained. The following varieties are distinguished:

• monolithic cinder block - suitable for laying a columnar foundation.
• cinder block with a hollowness of 28%;
• cinder block with 30% voids and two cylindrical cavities;
• with a voidness of 30% and three cylindrical cavities;
• with a voidness of 30% and four rectangular cavities;
• cinder block with 40% voids.

For the walls of the bathhouse, it is recommended to use cinder blocks with a hollowness of 28-30%, since they are lighter, and the presence of voids will serve as an additional heat insulator.

Blocks with 40% hollowness are not recommended for building a bathhouse, since they are not so strong.

External decorative properties

Log houses and brick baths are fully visually attractive. Cinder block buildings are considered to be low-decorative and nondescript. But this parameter cannot be called a disadvantage, since:

• firstly, the walls of the bathhouse will require insulation, that is, the masonry will be covered with facing material;
• secondly, manufacturers produce colored cinder blocks with a decorative texture, made in various colors, which allows the blocks to be used not only for the construction of bathhouse walls, but also for their cladding with simultaneous jointing.

Characteristics of cinder block

Cinder blocks are made from different admixtures that have different origins.

It is best to choose blocks that are not only durable, but also environmentally friendly.

When purchasing material, you should not save money so that the resulting building lasts for more than one year.

Cinder block is usually used for those buildings that do not carry a large load.

Such buildings are durable, and construction will be one of the most inexpensive and fastest.

If you properly insulate the building, it will be as warm as wooden options.

Some builders prefer not to buy a ready-made cinder block, but to make it themselves, which will not only save a little money, but also make blocks of any size.

How to build a sauna with your own hands, watch the video.

Video:

The main reason why builders choose cinder blocks for work is its low cost.

However, building blocks also have other advantages:

• high thermal insulation; light weight compared to concrete mortar; not susceptible to fungus and mold; block sizes can be different; resistant to the destructive effects of fire; convenient and easy to use.

The photo shows options for cinder block baths on a personal plot.

Photo:

Before you start construction, you should find out what the pros and cons of a cinder block steam room have.

The advantages of such a construction:

the speed of construction of the building is very low; mold will not form in the damp room of a cinder block bathhouse; since the bathhouse is equipped with a stove, the building must be fireproof, which is ensured by a cinder block; a cinder block building will last for decades; the thermal resistance of a building made from blocks is very high, which is important for a bath. Disadvantages of a cinder block steam room:

Disadvantages of a cinder block steam room:

• the finished building does not please the eye with its appearance, so a cinder block building needs to be finished on the outside with a suitable type of finishing; in addition, the inside of the building also needs to be finished so that the blocks do not absorb excess moisture; it is quite difficult to lay communications in a cinder block building.

If, after studying all the pros and cons of such buildings, you still decide to build a bathhouse from cinder blocks, then you should familiarize yourself with the technology for constructing such a bathhouse.

Advantages and disadvantages

Block building materials have their pros and cons. You definitely need to know them if you plan to use blocks in the construction of a bathhouse. To begin with, it is worth considering in more detail what advantages such elements have.

There are several advantages of such material as blocks.

• A structure built from blocks will not shrink, like, for example, buildings made of wood.
• A steam room made of blocks can be built almost immediately after the main finishing.
• The construction of such a bathhouse will take a minimum amount of time.
• All repair work can be carried out without the involvement of outside help, but experts recommend inviting at least one assistant. This way construction will go much faster.
• The final cost of a block bath will be 2-3 times lower than in the case of building a wooden steam room of exactly the same dimensions.

• Block materials are absolutely safe for human health. They do not contain hazardous chemical compounds, so even at elevated temperatures they do not emit harmful substances.
• The blocks are relatively light in weight. Thanks to this characteristic, you can significantly save effort and money on preparing a high-quality foundation.
• Many consumers choose block materials for construction because they do not support combustion.
• A bathhouse made of blocks is not subject to rotting.

• The blocks are easy to maintain. They do not need to be regularly coated with antiseptic compounds, as is the case with wooden buildings. Block materials are not susceptible to mold and mildew.
• Walls built from such raw materials are “breathable” due to their diffuse properties.
• Many types of blocks, for example, gas silicate ones, boast good heat and sound insulation properties.
• The service life of quality blocks is very long.

Currently, many owners choose block materials for the construction of baths (and not only).

However, these products also have their disadvantages.

• The blocks absorb moisture, so the bathhouse must be provided with high-quality waterproofing, otherwise the material may simply collapse.
• A bathhouse made of blocks requires a vapor barrier. This is explained by the fact that condensation almost always accumulates inside walls made of such materials, so it is impossible to do without vapor barrier materials.
• Blocks are durable materials, but in this regard they are inferior to brick.
• Popular gas silicate blocks contain aluminum powder and lime. These components reduce the positive characteristics of the material.

Many problems associated with block baths can be completely avoided if they are constructed in a high-quality manner and also take care of hydro- and vapor barrier in advance.

What needs to be done to insulate a bathhouse

Below we will separately consider how to insulate a bathhouse made of expanded clay concrete blocks (cinder blocks, foam blocks), but at the same time we will talk about each plane separately. That is, it will be described separately.

We insulate the wall

In order to insulate a bathhouse made of foam blocks, expanded clay or slag blocks, first of all, you need to choose insulation. Let's say right away that the most environmentally friendly product in this situation will be felt, but since it is not available for sale on the construction market, we will have to choose from what is available. It should be taken into account that the installation will be carried out in a hot and damp room and due to with this, select the material.

Based on the above data, we can come to the conclusion that in order to insulate a bathhouse made of expanded clay concrete blocks, of all the listed materials, mineral wool will be the most suitable (this includes stone wool, glass wool and slag wool). Its price is not very high, and you can also choose the required thickness (from 20 to 200 mm) depending on the climate of your region. But in any case, you will need foil for waterproofing.

If the mineral wool does not have a foil layer, then it needs to be added, and foil polyethylene foam, which you see in the photo above, is excellent for this. The thickness of such material varies from 2 to 20 mm, and by covering a layer of mineral wool with this, you significantly increase the effectiveness of thermal insulation.

For wooden lining, that is, for cladding a steam room, you need a sheathing that will be mounted on brackets, or it will be thick bars between which it will be installed. The second option is simpler, but mounting the beam on a block wall is not so easy, even if it is plastered. The fact is that if the thickness of the sheathing is 100 mm, then anchor bolts will be needed to fasten it, which is not entirely acceptable for a wall made of such material.

We continue to consider how to insulate a cinder block bathhouse from the inside and will install the sheathing. Place some kind of waterproofing material on the wall, under the brackets, and then attach the consoles themselves with bod profiles. Mineral wool is threaded directly through the pawns, and then carefully covered with foil polyethylene foam, trying to ensure that there are no holes left.

Ceiling

Thermal insulation and waterproofing of the ceiling with your own hands occurs, in principle, in the same way as, only the installation plane changes. Considering that there cannot be foam blocks on the ceiling, but, for example, a wooden floor or a concrete slab, it can be successfully used as a sheathing use timber.

Floor

Almost any materials are suitable for the floor in the bathhouse, for example those that are used to insulate the loggia, that is, extruded polyethylene foam or expanded clay. After all, you will still be pouring a cement screed, so both will do, but expanded clay is much cheaper. The thickness of the thermal insulation layer will depend on the degree of soil freezing and the general temperature in your area.

Criteria for choosing thermal insulation materials

Modern thermal insulation materials for bath insulation make it possible to carry out work on insulating floors, walls and ceilings using a variety of options. The choice of materials depends on the developer’s finances and the time he is willing to spend on the work. The higher the quality of the material, the higher its price: the bathhouse will be insulated in the best possible way.

The following are used as thermal insulation agents intended for insulation:

• expanded clay;
• slag;
• polymer materials;
• glass wool

Comparison table of thermal insulation materials.

It is necessary to determine what kind of insulation is needed to eliminate heat loss through the ceiling or floor in the bathhouse. Before work, builders study the fire resistance and structure of the material. When insulating the walls of a bathhouse, you should choose environmentally friendly materials.

The most important characteristic is the thermal conductivity of the insulation. The conditions for its installation in the bath are also taken into account.

To eliminate heat loss, materials made of polystyrene foam or mineral wool are used.

To avoid getting the insulation wet during operation, you should not use cheap materials that are not recommended for these purposes.

A cinder block bathhouse – is it a good option?

At your service are a variety of convenient tools, ready-made lumber and building mixtures, as well as our practical advice. Moreover, cinder block itself is a very pliable and not capricious building material, so let’s start looking at it in order. Cinder block has become quite widespread not only due to its qualities, but also due to the possibility of carrying out independent construction with its help. These are essentially artificial wall stones, also called building blocks. They are produced in standard forms using a brick press. Slag is used as the main concrete filler, hence the name of this material.

Basically, cinder blocks are used for laying building structures that bear a small load. Therefore, they have become very popular in the construction of baths due to their low cost and durability. Wall stones successfully withstand temperature changes and allow construction work to be completed in the shortest possible time. If you properly insulate a cinder block bathhouse, then in terms of its qualities this structure will hardly differ from the wooden options. True, for greater comfort you will need good sound insulation and high-quality finishing.

Possible difficulties and errors in the process

When building a cinder block bathhouse, difficulties and errors may arise. Some of them:

• low-quality cinder block;
• use of a monolithic foundation;
• errors in calculating wall thickness;
• lack of thermal insulation;
• lack of waterproofing;
• incorrectly prepared masonry mortar.

When purchasing a cinder block, you should ask the manufacturer about the availability of certificates for the quality of the product. Low cost may indicate a high percentage of defective building materials. There may also be the following errors:

• If you incorrectly calculate the thickness of the blocks and their dimensions, then excessive load on the floor can cause the foundation to shrink.
• If you do not waterproof and install insulation, the cinder block will accumulate moisture.
• If the masonry mortar is prepared incorrectly, cracks may form on the surface of the masonry.

Nuances of building a bathhouse

Cinder block has disadvantages, but a competent approach to purchasing and performing work will improve the characteristics of the object being built.

A do-it-yourself bathhouse made of cinder blocks should be built taking into account the characteristics of the material used:

1. The thermal conductivity and harmfulness of cinder block depends on the composition: the higher the percentage of expanded clay and sand, the more comfortable it will be.

2. It is necessary to exclude the possibility of moisture getting on the surface of the bathhouse masonry.

3. The installation scheme for cinder blocks has much in common with the brick one, but there are some features:

• When constructing low-rise buildings, it is recommended to fill hollow wall blocks with mortar to give greater strength to the house. Construction of tall objects involves installing metal rods in voids to add stability.
• A reinforced belt must be installed for the foundation of the bathhouse.

4. The material’s sound permeability is similar to concrete; this should not be forgotten when choosing the type of block for forming partitions or internal walls of a bathhouse.

General tips and tricks

Designing a bathhouse using cinder blocks should reflect the nuances of the work associated with the characteristics of the material:

1. To prevent moisture from entering the surface of the cinder block, the project must include waterproofing, followed by plastering inside the building and cladding outside.

2. Foundation insulation is mandatory. When the walls of a house come into contact with the ground, a so-called “capillary suction” of excess moisture occurs, which results in the bottom of the masonry getting wet. A properly implemented cut-off waterproofing scheme will help solve this problem.

3. A good bath is warm, energy losses should be kept to a minimum. The ratio of the area of ​​the steam room to the shower with changing room is 1:1 or 5:2. It is recommended to insulate the steam room from the outside and inside. The best option is basalt-based mineral wool using foil as a reflector. It would be useful to include insulation and insulation of the floor in the project.

4. When building an individual bathhouse, the presence of a dressing room will help retain heat.

5. When designing a bathhouse, be sure to provide artificial ventilation to ensure the removal of excess steam. The solution to the issue of additional sound insulation of the walls depends on the wishes of the owner; in temporary buildings designed for recreation, this indicator is not critical.

Speed ​​and ease of construction, lifespan of the building

The standard dimensions of ordinary solid bricks (L*W*H) are 250*120*65 mm, which is 1.5-2 times smaller than the dimensions of cinder blocks. And thanks to the large size of the latter, the work is done much faster.

Cinder block laying

Cinder block masonry requires a perfectly horizontal foundation (strip, columnar), equipped according to all the rules. In the event of deformations and movements of the foundation, large cracks may appear on the wall of the bathhouse, which will pass not along the seams, but through the rows of the blocks themselves. However, if the bathhouse construction technologies are followed, it will last about a hundred years (by the way, wooden bathhouses are rarely used without repair work for more than 30 years).

The long service life is also affected by the fact that slag concrete is too tough and not to the taste of insects and rodents, which often live in log houses and spoil expensive wood.

There are several construction features that can cause inconvenience:

• the construction of building walls is unacceptable in rainy weather;
• the skeleton of the bathhouse must not be left without a roof for a long time;
• high-quality waterproofing is required due to the high hygroscopicity of the material;
• in cinder block buildings it is not recommended to construct reinforced concrete slab floors;
• in the case of the construction of a two-story or more building, reinforcement of the rows with metal rods is required;
• walls are erected exclusively on a high (more than 50-70 cm above soil level) foundation;
• Difficulties may arise with the installation of heat, electricity, sewer and water supply networks.

Features of ceiling insulation

Bathroom ceiling insulation

When installing a ceiling in a bathhouse, it is necessary to take into account not only the fact that it accounts for up to a third of heat loss, but also the fact that the accumulation of condensate on the surface reduces any insulation measures to nothing. Therefore, vapor barrier from the inside is required here much more than for walls, actually coming to the fore. This type of work in this case requires much more effort than a similar one in a sauna.

Initially, it is recommended to cover the ceiling with hewn and dried boards 40 mm thick

The wider the boards you can find, the more beautiful they will look, no matter what type they are. Even with knots, it will be even more beautiful. It is not advisable to use lining; it may lead

Large thickness of boards is not desirable due to the accumulation of a large amount of cold during periods of absence of heat. This leads to the appearance of condensation on the ceiling while heating the steam room. A layer of waterproofing must be placed on them; this can be a regular greenhouse film or other vapor barrier material. Everything can be covered with a 15 cm layer of dry sawdust or put mineral wool and covered with ordinary clay on top. This is a very good method that our grandfathers used. If it is glass wool, then an additional fiberboard plate is placed on it

It is not advisable to use clapboard; it may move. Large thickness of boards is not desirable due to the accumulation of a large amount of cold during periods of absence of heat. This leads to the appearance of condensation on the ceiling while heating the steam room. A layer of waterproofing must be placed on them; this can be a regular greenhouse film or other vapor barrier material. Everything can be covered with a 15 cm layer of dry sawdust or put mineral wool and covered with ordinary clay on top. This is a very good method that our grandfathers used. If it is glass wool, then an additional fiberboard plate is placed on it.

From the inside

Thermal insulation of the house from the inside is literally not required. It is necessary to erect a reliable hydrophobic barrier that can keep both moisture and vapors in the air from penetrating into the foam concrete. It is necessary to understand the low thermal capacity of foam concrete in order to increase the efficiency of the entire range of systems for maintaining the internal microclimate in the house. Based on this, the characteristics of the interior decoration of foam concrete walls are as follows:

• low vapor permeability;
• waterproofing;
• heat shield;
• high heat capacity.

For a bathhouse, the priorities are waterproofing and heat capacity, but without compromising the remaining two characteristics. For a private home, low vapor permeability and the presence of a heat shield that can reverse most of the radiant thermal energy become more important.

House

Interior wall decoration must necessarily be multi-component. There is no material that would provide all the characteristics at the same time without the help of additives or additional means.

For waterproofing, you should use an acrylic primer, which is used to impregnate the walls before plastering. This will increase the adhesion of subsequent layers of finishing and strengthen the outside of the cellular concrete.

Plastering walls made of foam blocks up to 5 cm thick immediately solves the problem of low vapor permeability and high heat capacity. Adding liquid glass or polymer additives will provide additional water protection and antiseptic properties, preventing the formation of mold or mildew.

Further finishing can be arbitrary:

• plasterboard covering;
• wallpapering;
• laying tiles;
• cladding with clapboard and other types of wall panels.

Bath

The main thing for good insulation of foam concrete walls in a bathhouse will be a material with high heat capacity.

A simple and effective option is to build an additional internal wall half a brick thick. It will not carry loads or provide structural strength. Its task is only to ensure low vapor barrier of the inner layer and heat accumulation, which will significantly increase comfort during the operation of the bathhouse.

A heat-reflecting screen is distributed between the main wall and the brick false wall. For this, thin penofol, a roll of polyethylene foam coated with aluminum foil or a polymer composition with similar heat-reflecting properties, is suitable.

All other points are similar to the previous option for a residential building:

• priming the surface of a foam concrete wall;
• primer, impregnation of a brick wall;
• plastering up to 2-3 cm;
• interior decoration.

The presence of a brick wall made of new brick can eliminate the need to plaster it if cladding is then used, for example, with clapboard or PVC panels.

What is a cinder block and how is it made?

Cinder blocks are building blocks made from concrete, most of the aggregate in which is slag of various origins. It could be:

• a mixture of blast furnace and granulated slag with crushed stone (9:4:4);
• sand, gravel, pebbles - these blocks are also called vibroblocks;
• brick or concrete scrap (also called secondary crushed stone);
• ash and boiler sludge (residues after burning coal);
• expanded clay;
• perlite (porous crushed volcanic rock);
• sawdust or shavings, other production waste.

The main binder is cement, but to increase the plasticity and reduce the cost of the block, lime or clay dough is added (about 10-15% of the volume of cement). Some sand is added to the coarse aggregate - about 20% of the aggregate volume. All components are mixed dry, if required, lime or clay additives are added, and then water. This should result in a semi-dry mixture with a minimum of moisture, which is laid out in molds. Then there are two technologies for molding cinder blocks - vibration compaction and pressing.

Examples of compositions for molding cinder blocks

The process of vibrating when making cinder blocks yourself is simpler - buy a submersible or surface vibrator for concrete and use it to process the solution, achieving high density and strength of concrete. Pressing is more difficult. It's not a matter of pressing - you can make a mechanical or pneumatic lever. The fact is that with this technology, problems arise when “extracting” blocks from the mold - they break. Another lever and a movable bottom are needed to force the molded block out of the mold.

The main problem with the production of building blocks is the need to wait until the concrete reaches at least half of its design density. Under normal conditions, this is 7-14 days from the date of formation, but the blocks gain full strength after 28 days. In industrial production, strength gain is accelerated by processing in autoclaves. The strength of an autoclaved cinder block is much higher than that of a regular one, as is the cost.

Ready-made machines for the production of cinder blocks at home

If you decide to make cinder blocks for a bathhouse yourself, you will need a covered area not only for kneading and shaping the blocks, but also for storing them. Why covered? Because rain that falls at the wrong time will ruin the freshly prepared blocks.

Shapes, sizes, markings, scope of application

The most common cinder block size is 200*200*400 mm. It can be full-bodied - without voids, and with voids of different sizes and shapes. The area of ​​use of the blocks depends on the shape and volume of these unfilled parts:

• A solid block is used for the construction of a plinth and foundation for low-rise construction. Its strength should be high - not lower than M100 - M175, and the filler should be mostly heavy. The weight of such a block is 25-28 kg.
• Blocks with voids up to 30% usually have a strength of M 50-M 75 (weight about 20-23 kg). They are used for the construction of self-supporting walls.
• With a hollowness above 30%, the strength of the block is low - M 35 or so (weight from 18 to 22 kg), such blocks are used for non-load-bearing partitions and outbuildings (the bathhouse is not one of them).

Types of cinder blocks and their hollowness

Cinder blocks with round voids are more common, but rectangular ones are more convenient to install. If necessary, the blocks are cut, and if there are rectangular voids, they behave more predictably.

How to check block quality

The strength of a cinder block is determined by pressure testing (under pressure); as a result of the tests, the product is assigned a grade (letter M with numbers). But the strength of different batches can vary significantly - different cement, composition and/or aggregate fraction. All these factors greatly influence the result. The only way to test the strength of a given batch in “field” conditions is to drop a cinder block onto the floor from a height of about 1.5 meters. Based on the results, we can draw a conclusion. If after the “test” there are only minor chips in the corners, you have an excellent quality block. If there are internal cracks, the quality is not bad, but only for small buildings. If the block falls apart, look for another manufacturer. Even a block with large voids and thin walls should not fall apart.

Different voids in shape and percentage

Selecting tools for thermal insulation of a bath

To carry out work on insulating the room, you should prepare the following tools:

• measuring tape 5 m long;
• construction level;
• electric saw;
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• pliers.

The walls of the bathhouse, made of slag, retain heat for a long time, but the cinder block absorbs moisture, as a result of which they collapse and the strength of the entire structure is lost. They begin to insulate the bathhouse by creating protection for the walls from destruction. As a result of the work done, moisture will not concentrate inside the cinder block.

First prepare the necessary materials:

• slats;
• aluminum foil;
• insulation (foam plastic).

Tools for installing thermal insulation.

The first stage of work consists of creating sheathing for the surface of the internal walls. During the installation process, wooden slats with a thickness of 50 mm are used.

To insulate the walls of the steam room, a layer of mineral canvas or other heat-insulating insulation is installed on top of the lathing. The 3rd layer covering its surface consists of aluminum foil. It is mounted as an element of the waterproofing system. All joints formed as a result of laying the layers are hermetically sealed.

A bathhouse equipped with a steam room is insulated in a different way: vapor insulation is installed using polypropylene. It is covered with aluminum foil, and the seams are reliably sealed with sealant. To create a lasting insulation effect, mineral wool is installed in the space between the wall and the vapor barrier gasket.

To give the entire structure a complete aesthetic appearance, additional work is carried out: at the final stage of installation, finishing materials are used.

Attention should be paid to creating a special layer of air space. The finishing material is mounted on wooden slats, which are covered with a layer of aluminum foil.

Elements of wooden lining intended for finishing a bathhouse are attached in a horizontal direction.

Laying the foundation

Shallow strip foundation
The type of foundation for a bathhouse is selected after examining the soil on the site. When laying the foundation for a building on clay or peat soil, you will need a columnar or strip foundation and good waterproofing. A dense rocky area does not need a foundation for a lightweight cinder block building.

The first stage of laying the foundation is marking the selected area and preparing for its work. When installing a strip foundation, a shallow trench is dug along the entire perimeter of the walls of the building. The depth of the pit is 50 cm, width - 40 cm. Then formwork is made, the manufacture of which can be read here.

The hole needs to be filled with sand

Sand and gravel are poured into the bottom of the trench and carefully compacted to create a cushion. Stones or broken bricks are laid on it. Formwork made of boards is placed on top. Due to the high hygroscopicity of cinder block, it is necessary to raise the foundation to 50 cm above ground level. Concrete is poured into the removable formwork and covered with a film for several days to prevent moisture loss.

When laying the foundation of the building, they simultaneously lay the foundation for the stove. It is performed by analogy with the common foundation, but does not come into contact with it.

Construction of walls and finishing

Experts conditionally divide the construction of a bathhouse into several stages: construction of the foundation, walls, roof and floor, insulation, interior and exterior decoration.

First of all, we prepare the area

We clear it of debris, remove the top layer of soil, it is important to remove turf and various vegetation

We make markings, drive pegs into the corners of the future building and stretch a rope between them. As you work, measure the corners of the future building; they should be 90 degrees.

If you have a columnar foundation, mark the placement of the pillars; if you have a strip foundation, mark the width of the foundation.

The foundation is the basis of any building, so pouring the foundation is very important. To make a foundation, you need to dig a pit, compact and level the soil and fill it with concrete.

The foundation must rise above the ground by at least half a meter so that the cinder block does not collapse, absorbing moisture.

When the foundation is dry, it must be covered with a waterproofing material - bitumen or roofing felt.

Reinforcement must be laid every three rows of masonry to make the structure more durable. It is best to use metal mesh as reinforcement.

The last row of cinder blocks will end with bars, which will serve as the basis for the future roof.

It is also better to immediately lay window and door openings with wooden blocks.

Cinder block masonry technology on video.

After erecting a foundation 70 cm high, the first row of blocks is laid on a mortar 2 cm thick. This is due to the fact that the blocks are as far as possible from the ground, and therefore from water. Before starting construction, it is better to tighten the measuring cord and lay the bathhouse from the corners. The thickness of the binder solution should be no more than 15 mm, otherwise the bath frame may lose its heat-insulating properties.

By periodically rechecking the evenness of the wall masonry, it will be possible to achieve a minimum consumption of finishing materials during external finishing. If hollow blocks are used during construction, then these voids do not need to be filled with concrete. This can also lead to a decrease in thermal insulation properties. It is advisable to immediately apply a waterproofing primer at the same time. So the walls are up.

There are a few things to consider when building a roof. Since increased heat generation in a bathhouse is a common occurrence, moisture will condense in the ceiling area as a result of the meeting of a warm and cold front. To prevent this, you need to install a vapor barrier film between the ceiling and the roof. Next, the roof and ceiling are additionally insulated using cotton wool. Now that the roof is in place, the next stage begins - the interior decoration of the bathhouse.

The inside of the cinder block frame needs to be plastered. Here the layer of mortar can be 1-2 cm. Next, the bars are nailed vertically onto smooth walls at a distance of approximately 50-60 cm from each other. Now the bathhouse needs to be insulated, so mineral wool is laid between these bars. Since cinder concrete itself is warm, thin cotton wool can be used.

A vapor-repellent film with a layer of foil is attached to it with a stapler to the bars. This is necessary so that the cotton wool and the frame as a whole do not become damp from the inside. Next, horizontal bars are nailed to secure the lining. These bars simultaneously allow you to maintain a gap for ventilation of the wall from the inside. To prevent the appearance of mold and mildew, the lining must be coated with an acrylic product for bath surfaces.

Project selection

The construction of a bathhouse involves performing a number of mandatory works. Along with this, each object is purely individual.

You can use a standard project, choosing it from a large number of ready-made options, using a photo of the structure you like. If the site chosen for construction has geological features that require an individual approach, it is necessary to develop your own construction plan taking them into account.

Often, when choosing a suitable project, customers plan to combine it with utility rooms, living rooms, a garage, a workshop, and a stylish terrace for relaxation.

There are options for buildings with an additional number of rooms of different heights.

Calculation of building dimensions

When calculating the size of the bath, you need to take into account a number of factors:

1. The amount of free space on the site that can be allocated for construction.
2. The total area should be divided into a dressing room, a washing room, and a steam room. The last room may be smaller than the previous ones.
3. When calculating the internal space, you need to take into account the thickness of the blocks, the layer of thermal insulation and decorative finishing.

After calculating the dimensions, you can begin to create a drawing of the future building.

Main stages of construction

1. Laying the foundation. The choice is influenced by the soil of the site. Under normal conditions, it is best to equip it with pillars connected to each other by reinforced concrete beams. On difficult soil (clayey or mixed type), a strip base will look more reliable.

Due to the considerable degree of water absorption of cinder blocks, the height of the base of the bathhouse should be at least half a meter from ground level. After the concrete has completely hardened, they begin laying waterproofing. For this purpose, it is recommended to use molten bitumen and roofing felt.

2. Installation of walls. Before starting masonry work, it is necessary to start laying out the foundation of the heating furnace. The construction of external walls and internal partitions should be carried out in strict accordance with the approved project. Openings for windows and doors are left at the planned points. To further strengthen the bathhouse, reinforcing rods 10-12 mm thick are placed every two to three rows of block masonry.

3. Construction of the roof begins with the preparation of floor beams and installation of rafters. The roofing sheet is laid on the finished structure. After this, they begin to work on the ceiling.

4. Insulation of bathhouse walls made of cinder blocks. First, basalt thermal insulator is attached to the external walls with your own hands, then foil paper. The internal surfaces of the bath are finished with several layers of protective materials. Mineral wool is placed between the beams of the wooden frame. A vapor barrier with foil is secured on top.

5. Exterior finishing. The building is decorated with cheap clapboard, beautiful siding or practical plaster. The most presentable and respectable appearance will be when faced with imitation timber or façade slabs.

6. Interior design. It is better to cement the floor in the bathhouse, and then insulate it and protect it from moisture with a reliable layer of waterproofing. Molten bitumen and roofing felt are suitable for this purpose. Ceramic tiles or wooden floors are used as flooring. The walls are decorated with clapboard or wood.

approximate cost

To calculate the required number of building materials for a box, they rely on the main parameters - the size of the structure and the price of one block. First, the volume of the building as a whole is determined by summing up the length of all walls and multiplying by their height and thickness. The volumes of windows and doors are subtracted from the result obtained. The residual value is divided by the volume of one cinder block. The final number will be the required number of elements. Multiplying it by the cost of bentonite (30-35 rubles), we get the amount of costs for the construction of a bathhouse structure.

The final costs of building a bathhouse consist of a combination of prices for materials, loading and unloading and installation work, and transportation. A standard one-story structure, consisting of three rooms with an open veranda, but without internal insulation, can cost approximately 200-250 thousand rubles.

Reviews of cinder block baths

“We had to build a cinder block bathhouse due to lack of money. At first I thought it was temporary, then I’ll build something more solid. On the advice of experts, I insulated the walls of the house from the outside and inside, lined them with clapboard, and raised the floor higher. The result was such a great bathhouse that now I can’t be happier. And I definitely won’t change it.”

Grigoriev N.N., Ekaterinburg.

“Several years ago we bought a nice country house. A cinder block box from a small bathhouse was found on the property. Since there was little money left after the purchase, they decided to equip it with minimal effort. Instead of wooden blocks, the facade was faced with plaster, under which a layer of foam plastic was laid. And inside they made a frame from the profile into which mineral wool and siding were secured. It turned out to be an excellent economical option for a bathhouse.”

Alexander, Sverdlovsk.

“I always dreamed of having my own bathhouse with a steam room and brooms. When the opportunity arose, I took a swing at the log house. But harsh calculations showed that I couldn’t afford that amount, so I had to save money and replace it with a cinder block. But the inside of the walls was finished with a wooden block. Now there is just a fabulous forest smell in the steam room. My family and all my friends appreciated the beauty.”

Zadorin Nikolay, Kostroma.

“I built a small bathhouse at the dacha with my own hands. I tried to properly insulate the walls, floor, ceiling and protect from moisture. The bathhouse is heated by a conventional wood-burning stove. Literally two hours later, the temperature in the steam room rises to such a temperature that any sauna would envy. The whole family has been using the sauna regularly for three years now. Since then, neither adults nor children have ever had a cold.”

Evgeny Ilchenko, Moscow region.

BATH PROJECT AT THE DACHA

Building a bathhouse is the dream of almost every country property owner. When the design is simple, you can sketch out its design yourself. As a rule, the basis for building a bathhouse in the countryside with your own hands is taken to be small in size.

For example, a building 6x4 m and 2.5-3 m high is quite enough for 3-4 people to visit the bathhouse at the same time. A sauna made of cinder blocks with impressive dimensions always requires long-term heating and its construction is associated with additional costs.

The given dimensions of the bathhouse allow us to divide its internal space into primary sections: a dressing room, a rest room, a washing room and a steam room. To prevent drafts and store household supplies, a vestibule or hallway would not hurt.

Creating a veranda or terrace is a big advantage of a bathhouse, which can be attached to one of the side walls of the bathhouse. As an alternative, three garage walls can be added using the same cinder blocks.

Ultimately, it is rational to bring such an almost square structure of the building and the extension under a single roof, then it becomes possible to use the space directly under the roof as an attic.

The project should take into account all similar nuances, including the type of foundation of the structure, sewerage features and type of roof. At the same stage, it is appropriate to provide for the introduction of other communications, for example, water supply and electricity.

Drawing up a bathhouse project does not pose any particular difficulties, since the Internet is full of special programs that are easy to use and will instantly create any project based on the initial data.

As an example, below is a sketch of a design option for a bathhouse made of cinder blocks, available for manual conversion. In a real project, taking into account the taste of the owner, of course, the dimensions may differ, but the essence of the approach remains the same.

Floor installation instructions

The main components of the structure are logs and boards. Before starting work, you need to select the most suitable sizes of the mentioned elements and high-quality manufacturing materials. It is recommended to use high-quality boards that are three or four centimeters thick, and it is recommended to make the finished flooring logs from timber measuring 10x15 cm.

It is necessary to take a responsible approach to the choice of material for making logs and boards. Preference should be given to hard coniferous and deciduous species. They are durable and moisture resistant. The lumber must be well dried. Otherwise, all installed elements will become deformed over time. All joists and boards must be smooth without defects in the form of cracks. This will save you hassle in the future.

If the length of the laid logs is more than two meters, then the logs must be additionally secured to the supports. This design will be more stable and reliable. After this, the subfloor is laid. The boards must be laid perpendicular to the joists. When installing a poured floor, a gap of several millimeters should be left between the boards.

Solid floor in a frame bath

After this, the finished floor logs are installed in the form of timber with a section of 5x10 cm. A water vapor barrier material is laid on top. Next, a layer of thermal insulation is laid. The insulation is covered with another layer of water vapor barrier material. Only after this the board is laid. The process uses edged or tongue-and-groove boards. The finishing floor (if it is not a leaking floor) should be installed with a slight slope in the direction of the drain.

Insulating a bathhouse from the inside: photos, diagrams and videos

So, how to insulate a bathhouse from the inside, depending on what material it was built from.

Features of log house thermal insulation

For a long time, no one has ever insulated a log bathhouse - not even the floors. The logs were simply changed from time to time and the lower crowns were repaired. But today, when a good log house and a real Russian steam room are almost a rarity, the question of high-quality insulation is far from the last. After all, its longevity depends on how protected the bathhouse is from moisture and cold.

In general, insulation in a wooden bath is necessary only when the dimensions of the timber are small; in all other cases, caulking and good waterproofing are sufficient. For the internal insulation of a steam room made of timber, a traditional “pie” with mineral wool is used - except that the thickness of the working layer itself can be 2 times less than for a steam room made of brick.

How to insulate a bathhouse made of foam, cinder blocks and concrete

Cinder blocks and foam blocks themselves have quite good thermal insulation materials due to their porous structure. But they can still freeze in the winter, and therefore it is necessary to additionally insulate the block bathhouse. Otherwise, all its walls will be pleased with unaesthetic dark damp spots in frosty weather.

Mineral wool and fiberglass are most suitable for such a bath. But in general, the whole pie must be provided with a reliable vapor barrier - any blocks really do not like high humidity in the air, and they absorb water like sponges. In general, it can be used as insulation and foam.

The first task when insulating the aerated concrete walls of a bathhouse is to remove the ice mass of concrete from the heating circuit. Why should the frame inside the entire structure be made indented from the walls? Moreover, the resulting space must be well ventilated - for this, special vent windows must be made on the outside at the top of the bathhouse and at the bottom. During bath procedures, they need to be closed, and while drying the bath, they need to be opened. And then the usual “pie” of insulation in the steam room and washing room is made. The most standard one looks like this: an aerated concrete or block wall - a frame for insulation with an indentation from the wall - insulation - board - vapor barrier where the steam room is - finishing with aspen or cedar boards. Thus, the ice walls do not have to be heated - that’s all the tricks.

Rules for insulating a frame bath

Option two: the insulation of a frame bath occurs according to this scheme. A vapor barrier made of parchment (or roofing felt, or roofing felt) is laid directly on the frame, which is secured by wood sheathing. Between the resulting internal and external walls you need to put foam plastic, fiberboard slabs or heat-insulating reed slabs. All this is covered on all sides with layers of asbestos cement, which makes the frame bath both stronger and warmer.

You can also insulate a frame bath using sawdust, gypsum and wood chips. All this is mixed with lime in a ratio of ten to one and laid in a thick layer between the outer and inner cladding. The main thing is that the sawdust is well dried and the layers are treated with iron sulfate.

Laying the foundation for a bathhouse made of cinder blocks

Walls built from hollow blocks are light in weight compared to other building materials. There is no need to lay a strong foundation. The forces of frost heaving that arise in the ground in winter, due to the ease of construction, can squeeze its foundation out of the ground. Therefore, for a cinder block structure, a non-buried strip foundation or a columnar foundation with a reinforced concrete grillage is used.

Cinder blocks quickly absorb moisture, so the foundation is raised above ground level by at least half a meter. When the base is ready, it is covered with a layer of waterproofing. Before erecting the walls, lay the foundation for the stove. Only a specialist can build a brick oven, so you should hire a specialist or buy a ready-made metal structure. If you don’t want to bother with firewood, buy an electric heater.

Work order

The blocks are laid on a solution that is mixed from 1 part M400 or M500 cement and 3 parts sand. To improve plasticity parameters, red clay or a similar plasticizer is added to the solution. Laying cinder blocks with your own hands is done in the following sequence:

1. Mark the locations of door and window openings on the foundation.
2. A small amount of mortar is placed on the corners of the foundation, leveled and the lighthouse cinder blocks are installed exactly at an angle of 90°. To accurately fit the following blocks, pull the cord, securing it at the corners.
3. Applying the mortar to the foundation and the end of the block, I lay the first row of the wall. Excess solution is removed with a trowel. The thickness of the seam is no more than 1.5-2cm. If it is not planned to backfill the blocks with expanded clay, they are laid with voids down.
4. Check the horizontality of the surface with a level. To level the masonry, use a rubber mallet.
5. The corner blocks of the second and subsequent rows are laid in a checkerboard pattern (similar to brickwork).

When building cinder block walls with your own hands, it is important to take your time. Carefully check the horizontal and vertical planes of the walls. To do this, pick up a plumb line and level more often.

Redoing rickety walls is much more difficult

To do this, pick up a plumb line and level more often. Redoing sagging walls is much more difficult.

To give the structure additional strength, reinforcement with metal mesh is carried out after 3-4 rows of masonry. The internal walls in the bathhouse can be laid out both before and after the construction of the roof.

Roof installation

One of the most popular types of roofs for bathhouses is the gable structure. Its construction begins with the installation of a mauerlat - wooden beams located along the perimeter of the cinder blocks. It is on them that the rafter system and ceilings will be mounted. The mauerlat is laid a few days after the walls are erected.

A waterproofing layer is laid on top of the cinder blocks, on which wooden beams are mounted. After this, a rafter system, attic floors are erected and the roof is sheathed with roofing material (ondulin, slate, metal profiles or other suitable material). A layer of waterproofing is laid between the ceiling and the attic floor.

Floors in the bathhouse

The washing room and steam room are equipped with a concrete floor, on which a wooden grate is laid on top. The floors are made with a slope towards the drainage of water into the drainage system. The junctions between the walls and the floor are coated with bitumen for better waterproofing.

You can lay tiles on a concrete base. The grate is placed to prevent contact of feet with cold concrete. After bath procedures it is easy to take it out to dry. In other rooms you can lay a regular wooden floor.

Finishing the bath inside and outside

Before proceeding with interior decoration, waterproofing and insulation of the internal walls are carried out. A layer of waterproofing is attached to the cinder concrete using lathing with timber with a section of 50x50. Insulation (foam plastic, mineral wool or other basic insulation) is laid between the rows of the sheathing. As a finishing material inside the building, clapboard or facing wooden boards are used.

The outside of the bathhouse is finished in any way convenient for you. The walls can be plastered, covered with clapboard, siding or covered with facing bricks.

Anyone can build a cinder block bathhouse with their own hands.

Insulation of bath floors

Wooden floors are often installed in timber baths.

Concrete can be poured if the walls are built from brick, cinder block, foam block or frame method.

Sometimes, according to the personal preference of the owner, a concrete floor is also made in a wooden bathhouse.

Wherever concrete is used, it always needs special insulation, since cold and moisture have a destructive effect on it and also create discomfort in it.

The insulation of the floor in a bathhouse should be approached with particular scrupulousness, because it is most exposed to humidity, and must also withstand the contrast in temperature of the soil and the air in the room.

Before installing any floor in a bathhouse, you need to clean the soil surface and cover it with a thick layer of expanded clay (medium size) or slag. The height of the embankment of this insulation should be at least twice the width. If there is an opportunity to make the layer even thicker, you should definitely take advantage of it. In the case of a concrete foundation, expanded clay should be poured to its entire height.

Concrete floor

Before insulating and pouring the floor in the bathhouse, you should install a drain pipe. Then it must be attached to the level where the screed will later be. After this, you can start working on the floor:

• First you need to compact the soil.
• Then cover the walls with materials for.
• Sand (from eight to ten centimeters) is poured on top of the soil, after which it must be moistened and compacted.
• The next layer is roofing felt, which should protrude 15 centimeters on the walls. The overlapping sheets of material must be connected using moisture-resistant tape. You can also use tar mastic.
• Then a layer of expanded clay is poured onto the floor, the height of which should not reach the highest point of the foundation by 5 centimeters.
• After spreading the expanded clay evenly, cover it with plastic film. Then XPS boards (about five centimeters) are laid on it.
• Now you need to lay the reinforcing mesh, leaving cells from five to ten centimeters.
• Then you can set beacons for alignment. They should be placed at a slight angle towards the drain pipe so that the concrete floor has an unnoticeable slope and any excess water can flow into the drain.
• The next step is to attach the damper tape. This will ensure the safety of the screed and its evenness even with sudden changes in temperature.
• Then you can pour the concrete mixture, distribute it evenly over the entire surface of the floor and level it with the rule.
• When the screed is completed and the concrete begins to gain strength, it is coated with a special primer, which penetrates deep into the concrete and has waterproofing properties.

After the concrete and primer have completely dried, you can begin laying the tiles. Wooden flooring is also often used in a bathhouse.

Wooden floor

A traditional wooden floor in a bathhouse requires a lot of effort. Particular care should be taken to ensure waterproofing, good ventilation and preservation of floor heat. For good ventilation, it is necessary to leave several channels in the foundation, which will serve as the ventilation system of the bathhouse.

Step-by-step guide to performing the work:

• First you need to attach the drain pipe and determine the location of the drain (often it should be in the center).
• Then the soil is compacted. A layer of roofing material is laid on it, rising to the surface of the walls up to twenty centimeters high.
• A large amount of expanded clay is poured over the waterproofing layer. But it should not reach the floor beams by about 25 centimeters.
• Then the beams are installed. Before using wood to build a floor in a bathhouse, it must be treated with antiseptic agents.
• At the bottom of the beams, you need to install cranial bars, to which the rough beam will later be attached.
• After making the subfloor, it should be covered with film. Which does not allow steam and moisture to pass through.
• Then it is covered with insulation, such as mineral wool or expanded clay.
• Now the entire structure should be covered again with a film that insulates the vapor.
• The joists should be secured so that they are perpendicular to the beam frame. A hole is cut in the center for drainage.
• Boards cut at an angle of about seven degrees are attached to the flooring. They should increase the cutting angle as they approach the drain.
• Insulation should be laid in the holes between these slats (with a layer equipped with foil towards the top). The sheets of foil material are connected with waterproof tape. Subsequently, the entire sheathing must be closed.

Now you can lay the flooring on the wooden floor. It must be new, high quality and waterproof.

Advantages and disadvantages of buildings

Advantages:

1. Fire safety of the material.
2. With additional reinforcement of masonry blocks, the walls will withstand natural disasters.
3. The material retains heat well and withstands temperature changes without deformation.
4. To build a building, you do not need to have practical skills.
5. Block defects can be easily eliminated with plaster.
6. Laying can be done very quickly because cinder blocks are larger than standard bricks.
7. This material has good sound insulation.

Flaws:

1. Standard blocks do not have a very attractive appearance. To improve it, you need to buy additional decorative materials.
2. Before finishing, it is necessary to waterproof the facade of the building.
3. Due to high thermal conductivity, walls need to be insulated.
4. Communication difficulties may arise.

There have been recorded cases in history when cinder blocks emitted radioactive radiation. This was due to the use of low-quality, cheap raw materials.

Results

On the market of materials offered for construction, sand block is a profitable raw material for realizing your plans. The properties of the material provide an expanded scope of application. It is used in the construction of residential and non-residential premises, low-rise buildings, and with thickened masonry - even multi-storey buildings. By giving it preference, you will reduce costs and quickly build the planned facility.

3/5 (2 votes)

Filontsev Viktor Nikolaevich

On the website: Author and editor of articles on the website pobetony.ru Education and work experience: Higher technical education. 12 years of experience in various industries and construction sites, 8 of which were abroad. Other skills and abilities: Has the 4th group of electrical safety clearance. Perform calculations using large data sets. Current employment: For the last 4 years he has been acting as an independent consultant for a number of construction companies.

Advantages of building materials

• Technical characteristics make it possible to use them in the process of both external and internal construction work. • Solid blocks are characterized by increased strength, which is why they are used for building foundations.

• An additional advantage of this building material is durability: it does not rot, easily adapts to sudden changes in temperature, and also does not lose its performance in conditions of high humidity. • Sand concrete blocks are fire-resistant materials. • And for their production, exclusively environmentally friendly materials are used, such as sand, water and cement.

• But the main advantage of the product is their affordable cost. So, one sand block successfully replaces three bricks. Thanks to this, much less mortar is used during the construction process. If we take a brick house for comparison, then a similar building made of sand blocks, on average, will cost forty percent less.

Cost of work: what does the price depend on?

If it is not possible to build a sauna from a cinder block with your own hands, then you can use the services of contractors. The cost of the work will depend on several factors:

• project complexity;
• type of foundation;
• size of the building;
• construction region.

Average prices for the service in Russia range from 150,000 to 360,000 rubles per object.

How are cement-sand blocks produced?

Basic components for making sand blocks:

This composition of ingredients allows material manufacturers to not only save financial resources due to the low cost of raw materials, but also provide improved performance characteristics. The popularity of sand blocks has increased among customers, as it is a competitive raw material used in the construction of structures.

Manufacturing involves the technology of semi-dry vibrocompression on equipment with increased productivity. The production stages are as follows:

• Mixing raw materials components.
• Filling into steel molds.
• Compacting the fraction until homogeneous.
• Drying products under infrared rays.
• Keep in a ventilated room at room temperature for 4 weeks.

The main parameter is strength - the blocks are acquired after the final stage. Thanks to this, the service life of buildings constructed from them is more than half a century. This reduces the cost of repairing the facility over a long period after construction. The technology allows the use of a special filler during production, which reduces the impact of the weight of the object under construction on the foundation.

Furnace laying

There are a large number of sauna stoves on the modern market, with heaters, fireboxes and water tanks. It is worth considering that it is quite problematic to build stone stoves yourself without the proper experience and skill. Metal furnaces can be ordered from forges and specialized and specialized workshops.

Fans of classic brick and metal stoves should take into account that special autonomous foundations with a depth of more than 500 mm and dimensions that are 10% larger than the dimensions of the stove itself are poured under such stoves.

Installation of modern type stoves is possible after completion of interior decoration. Old-style stoves were built before the interior finishing work was completed.

For more details, read the article Brick sauna stove.