How to cover a steam room in a bathhouse - how to choose the right wood

Kikimora
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Kikimora November 29, 2016Speciality: I love my home, I like to equip it, periodically change something, do it with my own hands. There are no special hobbies. I am the administrator of a small women's forum.

Traditional Russian bath

If we often leave repairs in the apartment to the shoulders of specialists, for fear of messing up, then decorating a bathhouse with our own hands seems to many not such a serious matter. But is it? The bathhouse consists of several rooms with completely different purposes and requires a serious approach to the selection of materials for each of them. If you are interested in finding out what is the best way to decorate a bathhouse inside and outside, I am ready to share my experience.

Drying (drying and ventilation)

A Finnish sauna is not as humidified as a Russian sauna, but it also needs ventilation.
And it’s easy to lose a Russian bath if you don’t pay enough attention to drying it. Drying wood in a bath should occur after each use. All removable ladders and shelves (if they are removable) are washed and taken out into the air. The oven needs to be left running for some more time - if it is wood-burning, then at the end of the procedures, throw in another log, and time is given to dry, a brick oven will dry everything itself, a gas or electric oven - also let them work for another 20 minutes.

All dampers and windows and doors are opened for ventilation. If the owners leave, the shutters remain open, and the rest, of course, closes.

ATTENTION! Ventilation and operation of the oven for drying are carried out simultaneously!

Here are Bely’s tips from the Teplodar forum on how to properly dry a bathhouse:

We also recommend reading useful information about sauna ventilation in the corresponding section.

Selecting the necessary materials

For the bathhouse and dressing room, wood material is used - lining. The most inexpensive wood material is pine lining, however, due to its resin content, it is not suitable for a steam room. At high temperatures, the pine lining will begin to release resin and a pungent odor, because of this, there will be nothing to breathe in the steam room, plus you can get burned by streams of resin. Typically, hardwood is used for a steam room, and most often linden. Linden does not overheat at high temperatures, retains its light color, does not emit resin, has almost no noticeable odor, dries well and quickly, and is durable. In addition, linden creates a special microclimate in the bathhouse. The table below shows the materials for making the lining.

The following table shows the classes and their descriptions. It is worth knowing that wood with a large number of knots heats up faster and can burn. The markings are the same for all types of wooden lining.

Lining marking

Decorating the rest room

The bathhouse is always perceived as a place of relaxation from everyday worries. Each room in it is intended for its own purposes. The name of the relaxation room speaks for itself: this is where you relax after water treatments

Therefore, it is important to create a cozy and relaxing environment in it.

Proper finishing of a relaxation room in a bathhouse is not an easy task, the implementation of which can be entrusted to specialists: designers and artists.

A cozy environment is created through the correct choice of facing materials, furniture, accessories, organization of lighting and illumination of various zones and architectural elements of the room.

Installation of sheathing and insulation

No. Illustration Comment 1

Fastening the membrane with a stapler

To protect the insulation from moisture, a vapor barrier should be installed on both sides. Therefore, first, a membrane is mounted on a bare wall, which has been leveled in advance. 2

Installation of sheathing

Attaching the sheathing to the wall

And only then the timber sheathing is attached. Use well-dried timber 60×27 mm and 50×25 mm without knots, cracks and obvious wood defects that reduce strength. The installation distance should not be more than 1 m. Excellent if it is approximately 0.6 m. 3

Lathing

First, guides are mounted level on the wall. After this, according to the principle of racks, the outermost bars are installed first, the position of which must be carefully checked with a plumb line and level. 4

Fastening

Fixation is carried out on special corners, which will ensure loose installation of the structure. The gap that forms between the floor plane and the stand allows for the “movement” of the wood during deformation, which makes it possible to avoid unpleasant consequences. This also solves the issue of additional ventilation (when finishing the steam room, the gap is covered with a plinth). After installing the rack bars, grooves are cut into them, which will serve to attach bars of a smaller cross-section to them

This method of fastening is called floating; it will help avoid any deformation, which is very important for a hot and humid room. Then the entire sheathing is adjusted to the level and secured, and pads are used if necessary.

Lathing on a rounded wall

For semicircular or patterned surfaces, trying to adhere to a given shape, they use not a whole beam, but parts of it. 5

Mineral wool laid and secured with twine

Insulation is placed in the constructed frame

Over time, mineral wool can slip or become deformed, so it is secured with polypropylene twine. 6

Vapor barrier secured

Then a second layer of vapor barrier is placed with the rough side to the insulation, and it is fixed with a stapler. 7

Impregnation

To prevent the tree from being subsequently damaged by pests, it is necessary to carry out a special treatment with an antifungal primer, which is allowed to dry.

Decorating a steam bath with your own hands: what and how best to decorate the ceiling, walls and floor

Professional builders are always interested in step-by-step instructions when it comes to finishing. First of all, materials are evaluated:

- drywall;

— rack structures;

- wooden lining.

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Publication from kamin (@kamin.spb178)

Do-it-yourself finishing in the bath goes according to plan:

- Preparation;

- base;

- first layer;

- primer;

- finishing.

Now it’s worth taking a closer look at how to properly decorate a steam room in a bathhouse. It all starts with the layout, as the general level is marked and beacons are installed.

Is it possible to use a terrace board in a bathhouse?

Terrace board is a popular material used for interior decoration of baths. It is manufactured for use in the fresh air and in conditions of high humidity. Additional treatment with resins increases resistance to the formation of mold, fungi, and bacterial development.

The decking board has a corrugated surface. Parallel furrows allow you to effectively organize a drainage system. It will not allow moisture to destroy the structure of the floor. The floor, made of terrace boards, is non-slip. If installed correctly, it looks beautiful and expensive.

Operating conditions

To cover a steam room, it is important to remember the operating conditions. When contacting surfaces, fire safety standards are observed. As you know, a person can get burned. Installation standards for the bathhouse are met. The materials are securely fixed and, even with high humidity, remain in place and do not expand much. In the sauna you should definitely put signs on things that are prohibited from touching. Inside, in addition to the lining, other materials can be used. Some of them are specially processed.

Installation of sheathing and insulation

To protect the insulation from moisture, you need to lay a double layer of vapor barrier foil. The first layer of material is attached to a pre-leveled clean wall.

Then the sheathing is installed from the dried, even beams. The structure is attached to the guides according to the principle: first, corner bars-posts, then intermediate ones. The entire structure is secured with metal corners. The gap is needed for subsequent deformation of the wood and additional ventilation of the bath.

After securing the main posts, smaller beams are installed. This type of sheathing installation is called “floating”; it is used for hot, humid rooms and helps protect the frame from deformation.

The next step is to level the sheathing using wooden supports. It is recommended to treat the beams with a special antiseptic composition. For example, linseed oil is excellent for any type of wood, it is environmentally friendly, penetrating deeply into the wood, and perfectly protects against pests, microbes, and other parasites.

Insulation is mounted on a flat frame, a second layer of foil is laid, which is secured with a construction stapler.

Coniferous trees

Scheme of the steam room ceiling cladding.

Of the coniferous tree species, it is advisable to focus separately on larch. This is the most durable and stable coniferous wood for a bathhouse.

It releases many beneficial oils into the air that can significantly enhance human immunity. And if you make not only walls, but also floors from larch, you can be sure that every year they will only become stronger. Keep in mind that such a tree does not attract bark beetles, which is another positive point.

Cedar has approximately the same properties.

It costs a little more, so if you do not have the opportunity to decorate the steam room completely, you can use its wood for installation only in some individual parts. It is especially good to place cedar boards where the greatest amount of steam accumulates. This increases its usefulness and antiseptic effect on the body.

Spruce and pine are also common tree species for decorating a steam room in a house. They release useful substances into the air to a lesser extent and are more susceptible to deformation. But at the same time, they are several times cheaper, and if you properly process them before installation, they will last quite a long time.

Ways to fasten the lining

Two types of fasteners are used for installation.

Kleimers

Safe type of installation. Doesn't damage the planks.

Having fixed the bracket on the tenon, it is attached to the sheathing beam. You need to start from the center, then move to the edges, maintaining verticality or horizontality. Claypers are used for laying lining on ceilings and walls. If necessary, it will be possible to dismantle several planks without damaging other elements of the bathhouse design.

Nails or screws

For the self-tapping screws, pre-drill a hole with a diameter slightly smaller than the size. Self-tapping screws are screwed into a tenon or groove at an angle of 45 degrees.

The nails are simply driven into the slats in the right places. To avoid rust on the surface, it is recommended to use copper or galvanized nails. But it is worth considering that they will cost twice as much as usual.

In any case, the cap will be flush with the bar. Places of fasteners are sanded and polished. There should be no burrs or defects left on the surface.

What to hammer in: nails, screws or staples?

The lining itself is a board with a certain profile, which must have a tongue-and-groove locking connection. It is attached to the wall or ceiling using nails, screws or staples. The tools and material required to hammer in the lining in the bathhouse are as follows:

• nails, screws, staples;
• hammer, screwdriver, hardware gun;
• a mallet or a piece of clapboard for knocking a tenon into a groove;
• building level.

What nails should I take for the lining in the bathhouse? It is desirable that these are finishing nails 30-40 mm long, with an anti-corrosion coating. It’s worth taking coated screws (their length is the same, by the way). Regarding the length, you should proceed from the thickness of the board (if in a groove, then only the walls of the groove), plus you need to punch through the block to which the board is attached at least to the middle.

The staples should be the same size, although there are comrades who nail 14-mm staples with a construction stapler through a clamp, but this is rather an exception. To properly line a bathhouse with clapboard, it is better to use long staples and shoot them at an angle of 45 degrees (approximately).

Of course, it is tempting to wonder which of these methods is better. There cannot be a definite answer to this, because everything depends on the experience of a particular person. And if it is not there, then the easiest thing to do is to shoot the staples using a pneumatic gun. True, it is not cheap, and few people would agree to buy it for a one-time job. Other methods are a little more difficult to implement.

Rules for visual inspection of boards and assessment of their condition

The following must be taken into account:

1. Pay attention to the quality of the chips. The boards must have a flat and smooth surface. This directly affects the economic benefits of finishing work. If the front side of the lining is rough, finishing will be complicated by the increased consumption of antiseptic and paint materials.
2. The moisture content of the boards should not exceed 12-16% (GOST requirement). It is visually impossible to determine whether the material offered by the manufacturer meets this criterion. Therefore, it is necessary to request documents confirming compliance with GOST. If the wood is not dry enough, there is a high risk that it will suffer during the first years of operation of the finished premises.
3. Pay attention to the depth and evenness of the groove. These indicators determine the quality of installation. And it doesn’t matter how it will be done: using clamps, nails or staples. If the groove is shallow, there will be nothing for the fasteners to grab onto.

An important characteristic of boards is width. Often there are lamellas on sale that are wider than standard ones (more than 88 mm) and managers assure that it is more profitable to buy such lining. This is not true, since such a finish will be less durable and there is a high risk of wide boards bending when exposed to moisture.

Washing

The washroom is a very damp place. Therefore, experts recommend covering the walls, ceiling and floor with ceramic tiles or mosaics. Fortunately, there are tiles on the market that perfectly imitate wood structure. No? Do you want to enjoy the amazing beauty and sensual aroma of wood in every room of your bath or sauna? Well, what then? No problem.

You can decorate the washing room with the following types:

• luxurious teak;
• charming mahogany;
• noble abash.

These rocks are moisture resistant, but still require additional impregnation with special substances.

Luxurious teak

Teak, famous for its rich color palette, velvety surface and matte shine, is known for its excellent technical characteristics. For example, it is incredibly durable because it is biologically passive, chemically inert, moisture-resistant, and heat-resistant.

Due to the high content of certain natural oils, teak cladding has a beneficial effect on the human body. In addition, esotericists claim that the tree species has powerful energy. Teak is wonderful for covering all sink elements.

Charming mahogany

Mahogany is the wood of kings. She can't be demolished. She's not afraid of anything. This tree species is unaffected by climatic, chemical, thermal, mechanical and biological factors. In addition, it is incredibly beautiful and fragrant. Mahogany also has healing properties. In addition, it is famous for its light energy, which has a beneficial effect on a person. It is perfect for covering floors, ceilings and walls.

Noble Abash

Abash in nature

Abash is a guest from colorful Africa. It has an amazing texture and an exciting scent. In addition, it is not afraid of temperature changes, moisture, alkalis, acids, fungus, and shock. Abash is capable of serving faithfully for many decades.

In addition, due to its high content of nutrients, it calms the nervous system, saturates it with vitality and fights various diseases. Abash is also a tree that takes away negative energy and gives positive vibes. It is ideal for covering all elements of the sink.

Abash, mahogany, teak are species that, as practice shows, do not suffer from demolition, since they are not afraid of the harmful effects of negative environmental factors. However, their price is extremely impressive. So be prepared to part with a small fortune.

Requirements for materials for finishing a bath. What to look for when choosing

When choosing materials, it is advisable to take into account the following parameters:

• grade;
• presence of darkening and roughness on the surface;
• type of tree.

Of course, it is important that the lumber is safe and does not emit harmful substances when heated. Large suppliers strictly monitor compliance with this condition.

The appearance is of great importance: it is good if the board has a beautiful shade that will successfully combine with bath furniture, as well as with other interior elements.

Cladding stages

The cladding of the steam room is carried out in several stages:

1. Preparatory work.
2. Insulation of the bathhouse.
3. Cladding with clapboard.

Free selection of equipment for saunas and baths:

Preparation for sheathing

Preparatory work that must be completed before installing the lining includes:

• Connection and testing of all communication systems (electricity, water, sewerage).
• Cleaning room surfaces from dust and debris.
• Waterproofing.
• Installation of sheathing - the slats should be attached evenly and perpendicular to the direction of the lining. The sheathing is mounted to a concrete wall using dowels, and to a wooden surface with self-tapping screws.

Steam room insulation

After installing the sheathing, a layer of heat-insulating material is laid on it. To insulate the bath, mineral or basalt wool is used. This material is fire-resistant, vapor-tight and not afraid of moisture. When installing it, you must ensure that it adheres tightly to the surface. Existing errors are additionally sealed with self-adhesive tape or foam for installation work. To protect against steam, foil or film is placed on the mineral wool and secured with staples.

Simultaneously with the installation of the sheathing and insulation, the location for installing ventilation is determined. There should be two ventilation holes. It is recommended to place them near the stove. In this case, one of them should be at a level of 15 to 30 centimeters from the floor, the second under the ceiling.

Covering the steam room with clapboard

Installation of the lining can be done in two ways:

1. With horizontal placement.
2. With vertical placement.

The finishing of the steam room is done using a hidden method. Self-tapping screws or clamps are used as fasteners. Self-tapping screws must be galvanized. Clamps can be made of galvanized metal or plastic. Before laying, it is recommended to leave the boards in the steam room to “rest” for a couple of days. In this case, the shrinkage that they will inevitably subsequently give will be minimal.

The boards should be laid as close to each other as possible. And upon completion of the finishing, all existing gaps, corners and joints should be sealed with polyurethane foam, all wooden surfaces of the steam room should be treated with a special moisture-resistant composition based on wax or water. Lining is not suitable for finishing walls and floors near the stove. There you will need to install stainless steel sheets or lay out tiles.

Headlining

The decoration in the bathhouse will be disharmonious if the walls and ceiling are covered with materials that are identical in appearance but of different quality. This method is used only for the sake of economy. A high ceiling can hide differences in color shade or other surface features. But the bathhouse is traditionally built with a height of no more than 280 cm.

In order for the design of the room to correspond to the mood evoked by hygiene and relaxation procedures, environmentally friendly and aesthetically attractive materials are used in the cladding. If the walls are covered with wooden slats, most often the ceiling is made in the same way. The installation rules are the same. A sheathing is also built on the ceiling, having previously drawn up a drawing of it. The lamellas are attached to the bars using the same method as for wall cladding.

Board for bath-barrel

A barrel sauna is a popular stationary or mobile version of a home sauna. If we are talking about making it yourself, then you will need a rather specific type of lumber.

The board for the barrel bath is quite thick - 4-5 cm, and its sides are rounded for a “moon groove” connection.

You can buy such a board ready-made, or you can order it to be made.

The wood that is suitable for a barrel sauna (!about cedar barrel saunas here) is the same that is suitable for a regular steam bath. First of all, these are deciduous species - linden, ash, alder, aspen, etc.

Conifers are undesirable here too. However, many offer barrel boards made from the same cedar. If the board was kiln-dried and there was a procedure for removing the resin, maybe it’s worth it.

Interior arrangement of the steam room

As a rule, benches, shelves, and headrests are installed in the steam room. They are fairly easy to make, so you can do it yourself. It is recommended to make bath furniture from the same type of wood that was used to cover the walls of the steam room.

Nowadays African oak, or abashi in other words, has become widespread.

It has such advantages as:

• low thermal conductivity;
• moisture resistance;
• high density;
• durability;
• strength;
• does not deform;
• pleasant to the touch.

The disadvantage of abashi is its rather high price.