How to build a dressing room with your own hands - theory and practice

The desire to build a bathhouse on your site is not uncommon. The bathhouse can be made of wood (log house, timber, frame), foam concrete, brick.

There are three ways to solve this problem:

  1. buy ready-made (they will deliver and assemble),
  2. hire a construction crew
  3. build with your own hands.

In the latter case, you need to be a “jack of all trades.” In one of the previous articles we talked about insulating a bathhouse from the inside. Today we will dwell in more detail on the insulation and finishing of the dressing room, which is an integral part of a wooden bathhouse.

Walling

Wood is a traditional material for building a bathhouse, therefore we do not consider options for constructing walls from cinder blocks, bricks, foam blocks and other materials within the scope of this article. To build an ideal wooden bathhouse, you need to select a special log - after harvesting, the wood is “seasoned” for about 2 years.

A wooden substrate 50-60 mm thick and at least 150 mm wide, filled with tar or bitumen, is laid on the waterproofing.

Before installing the trim crown (its lower surface is impregnated with antiseptic compounds), an even layer of tow, dry moss or strips of mineral felt is spread on the lining. And between the logs an inter-crown seal is placed.

Logs for external walls are hewn on one side, for internal and partition walls - on both sides to a depth of 2-3 cm. The cutting begins with the first (cladding) crown, it is made from a log hewn on both sides at an angle of 90°. The bottom surface of the wood is laid on the foundation, and its side becomes the beginning of the inner wall.

Detailed information about log houses is in our material - assembling a log house from rounded logs with your own hands.

Interior and exterior decoration


Dressing the dressing room
The design of the finished room can be antique or more modern using siding or tiles. The areas around the stove are covered with non-flammable materials.

You can lay lining on the floor, use ceramics or decorative stone. The finishing material is selected so that it matches the design of the room itself. A metal sheet is laid in front of the fire chamber to protect the wooden covering from coals.

The walls can be decorated with slabs - this will create an imitation of a log house. Clapboard flooring is also suitable, as are materials that can withstand moisture and temperature changes well. This could be a block house, decorative brick, plastic or metal siding.

To organize ventilation, a hole with dimensions of 15x20 cm is made 0.55 m from the firebox door. The damper for it is made of wood and equipped with a handle. A similar hole is made on the opposite wall at a height of 2 m from the floor.

Some important points

Many owners are concerned with the question: is it necessary to treat the wooden structures of the building and with what? Either it will be an antiseptic solution or a special varnish that will extend the life of the products. It is not advisable to do this in a steam room, because at high temperatures the chemical components will evaporate. But the wooden floors in the dressing room must be impregnated, protecting them from rotting processes, the formation of mold and fungi.

Products for coating wooden structures, in particular floors, are as follows:

  • Varnishes - they contain antiseptics that prevent the spread of putrefactive bacteria. But they are also suitable for decorative finishing; Example of a varnished floor in a waiting room
  • Colorless impregnations contain phytoncides that protect wood from mold, rot, etc.;
  • Antiseptic solutions contain toxic fungicides. After their application, further painting of the material is expected.

A qualified approach to equipping the floor in the bathhouse and dressing room is one of the important components that can influence the amount of heat in the bathhouse and its long-term preservation.

Selecting a heating device

By choosing the right design of a sauna stove, you can immediately solve the problem of heating the dressing room.

Metal oven

If the stove is metal, it is not so much the design that matters as its location relative to the steam room and dressing room. If the firebox is installed in the latter, you can successfully heat a small room. A metal stove with a firebox made from a dressing room has its disadvantages:

  • small heating area;
  • short period of heating (the room will be warm only while the wood is burning, as soon as the stove heats up and the logs begin to smolder, the temperature in the room begins to decrease);


    Diagram of a metal stove for a dressing room

  • This option is well suited for a log house, but does not heat rooms made of blocks or bricks well.

The heating rate and its area will largely depend on the width and design of the combustion door. The larger it is, the more intense the heating will be. Installing a fire door with glass will increase the heating even more. An interesting option is to heat the dressing room using the convection of the stove. For this, a system is used consisting of several thin pipes located above the firebox, which go into the dressing room. Inside the stove, the pipes are looped, run along the entire firebox and are connected to the heater from below. When water hits the stones, hot air is formed inside the pipes, which escapes into the dressing room from the free ends of the pipes.


Diagram of the heat exchanger in the dressing room

Such a system can be organized either in a metal structure or in a brick version of the oven.

Preparing for the construction of the dressing room

If at the stage of building a bathhouse you did not calculate the dimensions or decided to increase the area of ​​the steam room to equip a full-fledged dressing room, then the most suitable option would be to build a frame structure. A shallow foundation can be installed for it. In addition, the construction of walls will take a little time.

Before you make a dressing room with your own hands, you need to calculate the amount of materials required. Traditionally it is built of wood. In any case, all wood for frames and finishing must be pre-treated with several layers of antiseptic. Otherwise, its service life will be significantly reduced due to the appearance of mold and mildew. It would also be a good idea to treat the wood with fire-retardant compounds. Especially if the bathhouse is heated with a traditional wood stove.

For insulation, hygroscopic heat insulators such as stone wool, polystyrene foam, and polyurethane foam are used. All fasteners must be galvanized. Phosphated elements are not suitable due to low moisture resistance.

Don’t forget that before you build a dressing room, you need to think through its design. We calculate the optimal room area according to the principle of 1.3 m2 per person. The width must be more than one meter. The standard dimensions of the dressing room are 1.4 x 2.3 meters. But you can make its length arbitrary, especially if you plan to combine the dressing room with the rest room.

When the construction plan is drawn up, we clear the area for installation of the foundation.

Negative aspects of the layout

According to the standard, the bathhouse is represented by a structure made of foam block or wood. The bathhouse element described in the article (dressing room) plays an important role, since its incorrect layout can lead to discomfort.

In the absence of a dressing room, such an important element of the bathhouse as a room for relaxation, drinking tea or changing clothes completely disappears.

How to insulate a bathhouse door

Without a reliably insulated door, all work on insulating the dressing room will not give the desired effect. A huge amount of heat will escape through door cracks and unprotected doorways. Meanwhile, it is not difficult to insulate the door to the bathhouse. For this you will need:

  1. Beam, 20-25 mm thick.
  2. Sheet of plywood or fiberboard.
  3. Insulation.

The technology is simple - timber is placed around the perimeter of the door to create a kind of frame. The timber is not filled close to the edge, but at a distance of about 1.5 cm from it. Insulation is placed inside the frame, and the whole thing is covered with a sheet of plywood. The sheet is secured with a construction stapler or wallpaper nails.

The principle of operation of such insulation is simple. When closing the door, the insulation will rest against the door block and bend outward. This bend will completely block the access of cold air to the dressing room. In this case, the insulation will not be clamped, leaving a layer of air near the door leaf.

This will protect the door from frost and allow it to remain dry on both sides. No sealing gaskets should be installed on the door block itself. The edges of the door should be smooth and clean.

Thermal curtain

Another common way to insulate a door in a bathhouse is to install a thermal curtain. To do this, a sealing frame is installed on the door block inside the dressing room.

The frame is made of a block wrapped in insulation. After installation, a soft cloth is attached to the frame to act as a screen. This method is simple, but well-proven and quite effective.

Before carrying out work on insulating the dressing room door, check the condition of the door frame. Perhaps she began to rot. In this case, insulating the door will not help; the frame will have to be replaced.

Box replacement process

If the door frame is rotten, it must be replaced. Click on photo to enlarge.

If the bathhouse frame was installed according to the rules, then the work of replacing the frame will not cause difficulties.

Dismantling of the old box occurs starting from the lintel.

When sawing the lintel beam and side crossbars, be careful not to damage the walls of the dressing room.

There is no need to saw off the fastening pins.

In a situation where it is impossible to insulate the old dressing room door, it is necessary to replace it with a new one. You can make the door yourself according to the dimensions of the old door.

It is better to use timber and boards for this purpose.

For the dressing room, it is recommended to make a two-chamber door, in which, between the sheets of the door leaf, lay a layer of heat-insulating material. You can order a ready-made door from any company engaged in carpentry work.

Gas heating system

When connected to a gas main, heating a bathhouse with gas is the fastest and most efficient option for the system.

The system has two implementation options:

  • traditional heater equipped with a gas burner;
  • gas boiler with installation of heating radiators and water pipes.

The undoubted advantage of such heating is the absence of unpleasant odors, the formation of soot and soot. At the same time, gas equipment has a compact body, low weight and does not require much space during installation. The power of a standard boiler reaches 45 kW, which is enough to heat a room up to 280 square meters. m.

Creating flooring in a steam room

The first step in creating the finishing for the steam room and dressing room is the design of the floor covering. For a steam room, it would be best to slightly raise the level of the floors - this measure will help maintain heat in a small room (protection from drafts). The flooring can be made from the following materials:

  • ceramic (porcelain) tiles;
  • figurative board;
  • tongue and groove board.

Even in steam rooms designed for very high temperatures on the floor surface, it does not rise above 30-35 degrees. Therefore, the rough layer of flooring can be made from:

  • concrete;
  • clay;
  • land.

The main task of the correct floor covering is to ensure safety and quick removal of moisture from the steam room (the floors are made with a slight slope for quick removal of liquid). Therefore, the rough level of the floor covering must be covered:

  • stopper;
  • fiber mat;
  • tiles;
  • boardwalk;
  • sanded board.

If you choose the method of arranging a floor covering using wood, then this will not be difficult to do: first, brick columns are laid on the rough level, on which the logs will be located, and the prepared boards are mounted on them.

Considering that the floor in the steam room does not experience serious loads, the size of the logs can be chosen from 20x20 to 25x25 cm in increments close to the meta. For flooring in a bathhouse or sauna, it is better to use a shaped, tongue-and-groove board. It is better to choose boards with a thickness of 30 cm. Absolutely all material for creating finishing in a bathhouse or sauna must be treated with an antiseptic compound before installation to prevent the formation and spread of fungus.

If ceramic tiles are used as the top layer of the floor covering, the sequence of actions will be as follows:

  1. creating a floor screed, it is necessary to achieve a perfectly flat surface;
  2. laying floor tiles using special glue;
  3. treatment of seams with moisture-resistant grout.

Ceramic tiles on the steam room floor are an excellent opportunity to protect the surface from high humidity and temperature changes, as well as create a durable and easy-to-clean coating. But from the point of view of the danger of sliding on the surface, tiles are not the best option for a steam room. Therefore, low panels or wooden grates are usually laid on top of the porcelain stoneware covering, which must be taken out into the fresh air to dry after each visit to the steam room.

Lining is the most popular finishing material

This material has proven itself to be the best, since there are three main categories A, B and C, which leads to a wide price range. Accordingly, each owner will be able to choose the optimal material for himself. The lining is laid horizontally, which provides maximum moisture protection, preventing liquid from penetrating into the joints between the boards.

The lining is made from natural wood of various species. The thickness of one board can reach from 1.1 to 2.2 centimeters. The most popular options for covering a dressing room are those with a thickness of 1.4 and 1.6 centimeters. The lining can be installed on a flat base without sheathing. If there is a high level of humidity in the elevations, then lathing is required. The step between vertical slats should be from 0.6 to 1 meter.

Lighting

When choosing bathroom fixtures, you should take care of their safety. The rest of the choice is determined by the interior style. For dressing rooms in a rustic style, bright lamps are not used. A small light bulb screwed into a socket on the wall will suffice. For spacious rooms and dressing rooms in a modern style, a chandelier under a lampshade (fabric or glass) is appropriate. It gives a cozy soft light. It is better to hang it above the table. A pair of identical wall lamps will add light.

Small iron tablet lamps look harmonious in modern interiors. For eastern recreation areas, it is better to choose exquisite floor lamps. It is logical to place the switches near the door so that it is convenient to use them as soon as you enter the dressing room.

Furniture

Regardless of the style and size of the dressing room, the required set of furniture in most of them is a table, bench, mirror and hanger. This is a functional minimum that allows you to make the room practical. The installation of a sofa, rocking chair, and a small cupboard for dishes allows you to turn the dressing room space into a comfortable relaxation area. Near the mirror it is logical to install shelves for useful little things and accessories, and secure hooks. In the corner you can place triangular ergonomic shelves.

It is important that benches and chairs are durable and resistant to moisture. If there is soft upholstery and textiles on the furniture, they should not be allowed to get wet; they must be washed and dried periodically. If space allows, you can organize a small kitchen area with a sink, tiles with a work surface or an electric kettle. The walls near the sink can be decorated with tiles or colorful PVC panels. It will turn out beautiful and practical.

How to attach a bathhouse to your house: methods and methods

When presenting an extension, not everyone understands that the design can be different. Depending on the features of installation to the main house, a bathhouse extension can be:

  1. An extension with three full walls and one shared with the house.
  2. A full-fledged log house, which is located close to the house.
  3. The bathhouse is located at a distance of 1-1.5 m from the frame of the house. The structures are united by a warm heated vestibule corridor. It is often used as a dressing room or rest room.

The first two options can be located under a common roof with the house, the latter has a common or separate roof.

It is necessary to choose the design of the bathhouse extension at the planning stage. The choice will determine what the foundation will be.

Choosing a foundation

You can make the foundation for a bathhouse extension yourself. It is poured separately or the tape is tied to the main one under the house. The first option is preferable, since the shrinkage will be more uniform.


Columnar foundation for a bathhouse extension on a summer cottage.

You should not choose a foundation different from the main one. The most suitable option is lightweight tape. The connection to the main foundation can be done using metal brackets, and to avoid the formation of hold bridges, the joints are additionally foamed and insulated with polystyrene foam.

For a bathhouse extension to a country house, you can use pieces of reinforced concrete piles or slabs as the foundation. Since the bathhouse attached to a country house has minimal dimensions.

The transition between the bathhouse and the house, which is better?

It is important to think about what the transition between the bathhouse and the house will be like. The easiest option is to perform a pass-through, when the door directly from the house leads to a dressing room or rest room

The main advantage of the internal transition design is less heat loss.

When crossing through a separate vestibule, additional insulation is provided. The vestibule is used as an additional room or dressing room. In the vestibule you can place benches and a clothes hanger.

Features of communications

Communications to the attached bathhouse are carried out directly from the house. You can run pipes and electrical wiring through a common wall or under the bathhouse through the foundation. Wiring throughout the bathhouse is carried out in any convenient way. You can supply water to the bathhouse separately; you can dig a well or make a borehole in your garden or summer cottage.

Video description

This video shows an example of building a veranda with planks

In the first case, the walls are made 1/3 of the main material (wood, brick or stone), and the rest is occupied by the window. With full glazing, panoramic windows are used, which occupy the entire height and area of ​​the wall. Most often they are equipped with opening areas, for example, vents or glass doors to create natural ventilation.

The roof of the veranda usually depends on the shape of the extension and the bathhouse, as well as the material from which the steam room covering is made. If the extension is located under the roof of the sauna, then a common roof should be made. In this case, it is necessary to make a transition between the terrace and the bathhouse so that water does not get into the gap, as well as a separate drainage system for the extension. If the veranda is located perpendicular to the main building, then it is recommended to make a separate roof.


An example of a split roof for a terrace attached to a bathhouseSource remontik.org

Construction of the foundation for the dressing room

Once the design work is completed, you can begin clearing space for the foundation. The first real stage is removing the fertile soil layer. Further work is as follows:

  1. Markings are made, then a trench is dug, 30 cm wide and half a meter deep.
  2. Sand is poured into it; there should be several layers of it, and each one must be spilled and thoroughly compacted.
  3. The formwork is installed, reinforcement is placed in it, its cross-section is up to 1 cm. Galvanized steel pins are additionally attached to the corners, to which the lower trim will be attached.
  4. Concrete is poured into the formwork, after which time is given to dry. In hot weather, it should be moistened periodically.

Work on the construction of the foundation ends with covering the foundation with one or two layers of roofing material.

Heating system from the heating main

A private bathhouse can be directly connected to the central heating main. To organize a similar heating option for a bath, you will need to install an additional circuit.

The connection of the circuit to the heating main is carried out in accordance with the design documentation and permits obtained from the relevant authorities.

Choosing this option involves some difficulties:

  • the likelihood of accumulation of groundwater in places where pipes are laid;
  • the need for additional insulation of the heating main;
  • the need to attract professional installers.

Indoor arrangement

This room can be provided with convection heating in winter or other heating can be connected. There must be a steam outlet.

Insulation

If the floor is wooden, then the standard insulation technology is as follows:

  • The subfloor is attached underneath the joists;
  • wooden elements are treated with an antiseptic composition to prevent damage to the wood;
  • a vapor barrier film is laid, releasing excess water and protecting the insulation from getting wet;
  • the selected insulation is placed (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, etc.);
  • waterproofing material (roofing felt or film) is laid down;
  • boards are laid.

If the floor is tiled, then an expanded clay concrete screed is made under the tiles. The tiles are laid on this screed. However, it is better to install a heating system to avoid a cool floor.

For internal insulation of the walls of a log dressing room, foil foam, expanded polystyrene or mineral wool are used.

For insulation from the inside, sheathing bars treated with an antiseptic are attached to the wall in half-meter increments. Foiled polystyrene foam is attached with a stapler to the walls and bars with a shiny layer inside the room. Electrical communications are carried out in plastic corrugation. The lining is attached on top of the bars.

Insulation from the outside under the facing board is carried out as usual: the lathing is made using bars with a cross-section of 50 by 50 millimeters, a forty is placed below and above, to which the bars are attached using metal fasteners. Mineral wool is laid between the beams, then a vapor barrier is made. A sheathing is made on top for the cladding. For exterior cladding, you can also use different types of siding. This solution is used for brick or other non-wooden walls. To attach siding, it is advisable to use specially designed fasteners and fittings.

Ceiling insulation is similar to floor insulation. There is insulation between the joists, and polyethylene on a foil base is overlapped with thin strips underneath. The joints are sealed with tape and the whole thing is covered from below with a beautiful lining.

If the ceiling serves as a ceiling and is the floor for the floor above, then a high-quality floor covering is laid on top of the joists. And if this is a little-used attic, the insulation over the joists is covered with boards, along which, if necessary, you can move and store various utensils.

Bathhouse with a warm dressing room

It’s hard to imagine a real Russian bathhouse without a warm and cozy dressing room. It not only protects the steam room from cold air entering it, but also serves as a relaxation room in which you can fully enjoy the delights of bath procedures.

Before you attach a dressing room to the bathhouse, do not forget about a number of rules that must be followed when arranging it:

  • the dressing room should be well insulated, which will allow you to stay in it for a long time in a “steamed” state;
  • in order for both bath rooms to be perceived in the same style, it is advisable to cover the walls of the relaxation room with the same material as in the steam room;
  • It is necessary to provide ventilation in the dressing room to eliminate the possibility of condensation forming on the walls and ceiling.

To insulate the walls of the dressing room, traditional synthetic materials are used, most often with a special foil coating. The use of this insulation will allow you to maintain the desired temperature in it, providing an increased level of comfort.

Waiting room floors

A bathhouse with a warm dressing room must have floors designed taking into account the fact that the air humidity in the bathhouse building is quite high. Most experts believe that this indicator for the waiting room is no lower than the humidity level in the steam room itself. Based on these considerations, for flooring it is necessary to choose especially resistant wood species that are more resistant to decomposition and rotting.

Note! To arrange the floor in the dressing room, experts advise using moisture-resistant species such as larch or oak

Wall and ceiling finishing

Once the floor in the room is prepared, you can move on to decorating the walls and ceiling. Before covering them, the surfaces we are considering must be insulated. Note that to insulate the internal surfaces of the dressing room, thin polystyrene with a foil coating is usually used.

During the installation process, polystyrene sheets are fastened with staples to the sheathing bars, which are pre-mounted on the walls and ceiling of the room. In this case, the foil layer should be facing the inside of the insulated space. The joints formed during installation are sealed with tape, which avoids noticeable heat loss through through gaps. The locations of the bars on the walls and ceiling are prudently marked with a marker. This is done for the convenience of subsequent fastening of the finishing material elements.

Note! For decorative finishing of the walls of the dressing room, it is recommended to use a special cladding lining that is resistant to moisture. In addition, in some cases, a tongue and groove board can be used for these purposes.

The choice of installation method for decorative trim (vertically, horizontally or diagonally) is determined by the tastes and preferences of the artist.

According to a long-established tradition, preference is usually given to the vertical method of installing lining; although recently an increasing number of users have chosen the overlap method. If you decide to paint the walls in the dressing room, try to use only water-repellent paints intended for rooms with high humidity and temperature.

The interior design of the dressing room is of particular importance. The interior promotes maximum relaxation. Traditionally, the classic Russian style is used, although in recent years attempts have increasingly been made to introduce completely new design solutions.

Note! It is not recommended to use fabric-based materials for covering the walls of the dressing room or individual fragments of surfaces. To obtain the desired effect when decorating the dressing area, it is recommended to adhere to the following rules:

To obtain the desired effect when decorating the dressing area, it is recommended to adhere to the following rules:

  • Before covering the walls and ceiling, you should once again make sure that there are no gaps.
  • In the most general case, the useful area of ​​the dressing room should be determined at the rate of 1.3 m² per person.
  • As for the length and width of the room, creating a feeling of spaciousness and comfort in the dressing room, usually 1.5 × 2 m is chosen as a guideline. In any case, the width of the room should be at least 1 m.

The most necessary items placed in the rest room are a small sofa, a table and several armchairs, as well as a hanger and a TV.

Water heating system

A practical and affordable way to organize heating of a bathhouse in winter is to install a water system.

Water is used as a coolant, gas, electricity, liquid and solid fuel are used as fuel, and a stove or boiler is used as heating equipment.

Water heating provides quick and uniform heating of bath rooms with the ability to automatically maintain the set temperature.

There are the following options for arranging water heating:

  1. Radiator heating. Provides for laying pipes along the walls to which water radiators or convectors of the appropriate size and power are connected. The hot coolant from the boiler moves inside the system, providing space heating.
  2. Underfloor heating. Its operating principle is similar to that in the previous version. The only difference is that the installation of pipes is carried out in a concrete base after its preliminary insulation and waterproofing. This design is of a non-removable type, and therefore requires compliance with installation technology.

Peculiarities

A bathhouse is so many pleasures: a steam room or a washing room, the release of toxins from the body through sweat, a massage with a natural broom, a change in temperature, a feeling of cleanliness and lightness.

Usually, with proper arrangement, a small pool is made in a large bathhouse, a relaxation area in a small one, where you can talk and drink tea, and from here you can fire the main room. Planning a dressing room is an event no less important than arranging a steam room, external insulation, ventilation and external design.

When drawing up a construction plan and a plan for further actions, a thrifty owner must take into account several key points at once, find answers to numerous questions, and all this - taking into account his financial capabilities and style preferences:

  • style design – warm and light Russian, Turkish exotic, ascetic yacht, minimalist Scandinavian;
  • method of insulating the dressing room - from the inside or outside, problems with the door and fresh air flows, with the ceiling and floor;
  • the insulation used is polymer, conventional mineral derivatives, wood, heating structures with circulation and mechanisms for supplying heated water or air;
  • furniture arrangement, lighting, convenience, maximum number of visitors for which the room is designed.

Ready-made solutions and design projects published on special websites may, for some reason, be unsuitable. This may be hindered by restrictions in furniture (standard set - bench, table and clothes hanger), the expected size of the dressing room, designed for a larger number of visitors. Independent design is fraught with minor and major troubles due to unprofessionalism, lack of basic skills, knowledge about insulation and heating methods.

According to professional builders, it is imperative to take into account all the negative factors - condensation from temperature changes, cold currents that create conditions for colds and damage to the finish, emissions from the firebox if it is located in the dressing room. All this should not interfere with the main purpose of the space between the steam room and the street - the area necessary for maximum comfortable relaxation. At the same time, high-quality ventilation and the absence of drafts, the safety and efficiency of the firebox are taken into account if it is placed in the dressing room.

The optimal temperature should not make you want to immediately get dressed or go back to the steam room, but it should also not make you want to go outside to cool off or take a breath of fresh air. To prevent negative aspects, the use of a certain type of insulation, options for floors, walls and the choice of heating are provided in advance.

If you do the construction yourself, you should not choose the most complex and expensive options that require significant knowledge in the field of energy saving.

We design ourselves: we think about the main thing, don’t forget about the little things

In this section we will focus on the most important points that will be of particular importance for the quick construction and long-term operation of your future bathhouse.

We will present the data in relative chronology of the order of work carried out:

At the initial stage. We are conducting reconnaissance of the area. We take into account the terrain, the proximity of the reservoir and the stability of its coastline and water level. We tie the future bathhouse to water sources and methods of waste disposal. Do not forget that according to fire safety rules, the construction of a bathhouse can be carried out at a distance of 8 m from residential buildings. At this time, the designer determines the functional form of the future bathhouse. Will it be made in the form of a free-standing structure or, on the contrary, integrated into a residential household or a utility, separate room such as a summer kitchen;

  • At the second stage, the architectural form is determined, the type of building material for the construction of the box and the arrangement of the roof is agreed upon. At this time, the main linear dimensions of the bathhouse and the total usable area are determined. It should not be forgotten that for a family of six people to fully accept the procedures, the total usable area cannot be less than 12 square meters. m.;
  • At the next stage, the internal volume of the bathhouse is divided into functional zones. A traditional modern bathhouse has a steam room, based on the calculation of at least 1 sq. m. for 1 person, washing department, useful area of ​​at least 4 sq.m., rest room, functionally combined with a dressing room. Based on generally accepted practice, the area of ​​the relaxation room should be 50% larger than the intended area of ​​the steam room. The ceiling height is also designed here. Again, practical experience shows that in the steam room the ceiling should be located at a height of about 115 cm from the top edge of the heater stove, but its total height should not exceed 225 cm, based on considerations of rational ventilation and heat conservation. In order to save useful space, shelves should be attached to the wall. Shelf length is at least 650 mm, width is at least 470 mm. The top shelf of the entire stepped system of a set of shelves should be located at a height of no more than 1200 mm from the level of the flooring, which should ensure an acceptable level of temperature in its zone;
  • Next, window and door openings are designed. Based on the condition that in the vast majority of cases the bathhouse is used in the afternoon, it is rational to lay the maximum number of window openings on the western side to maximize the use of natural light. Doors must open outwards. This, in the case of external doors, saves internal space, with the doors of the steam room - it will allow you to avoid accidents in the event of an emergency;
  • Organization of heating and steam generation in a steam room. The best option, which produces soft, delicate steam, should be considered a full-fledged stone stove with a stone backfill. Metal stoves, although easier to install, in the vast majority of cases produce harsh, uncomfortable steam, which may be appropriate in a dry sauna. It is imperative to provide a heat-resistant cut-off in the stove corner, which will ensure that basic fire safety requirements are met. Along with the design of the heating and hot water supply system, other communication and support systems are included in the project;
  • At the final stage, you can be tasked with measures to improve the appearance of the bathhouse structure, introducing details into the project that can emphasize the individual style of the bathhouse, its peculiarity, and its difference from other similar structures. Possible solutions for decorating the adjacent territory and creating a unique landscape design are also being worked out here.

Sources

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  • https://Proekt-sam.ru/banya-bassein/programmy-dlya-proektirovaniya-bani.html
  • https://baniaisauna.ru/1987-kak-sdelat-proekt-bani-samomu.html
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Review of materials used for bath insulation

To insulate a bathhouse, various materials are used, the choice of which depends on the purpose of the room (rest room, steam room, washing room, etc.), as well as on the material of the building walls. But in any case, insulating materials are selected based on the following characteristics:

  • minimal hygroscopicity. The material should not absorb moisture and serve as a medium for the development of mold cultures;
  • safety. When heated, there should be no emission of harmful substances;
  • ability to withstand high temperature and humidity without deformation. The absence of shrinkage of the material is the key to the tightness of the thermal circuit;
  • financial accessibility and the possibility of self-installation.

The most popular materials for insulating baths made of timber and logs

  1. Rolled felt and jute.
  2. Tow.
  3. Moss.

The best natural inter-crown insulation for log baths. They are environmentally friendly and effective, but are flammable and hygroscopic. Ideal for use in dry areas of the bathhouse: relaxation room, billiard room, etc.

Natural insulation for a wooden house

Universal insulation for baths made of wood, brick, aerated concrete

Insulation materialsDescription and Application
Mineral woolSupplied in slabs and rolls. Suitable for insulating walls and ceilings in all rooms. Eco-friendly and fireproof, but compliance with installation rules is required - laying out the seams and protecting the insulation with a vapor barrier material with a mandatory air gap of 50 mm between layers. In the steam room, only foil material is used as a vapor barrier; in dry rooms, the installation of vapor barrier membranes and films is allowed.
StyrofoamSlab insulation used to insulate floors and walls in all rooms of the bathhouse, except the steam room. Polystyrene foam becomes toxic when heated, and is not a fireproof material. Another disadvantage of insulation is the high probability of damage by rodents.
Foam glassIt is a block with a cellular structure. The main advantages of insulation are chemical and biological resistance and fire safety. The disadvantages are the high price and installation, which not every non-professional can handle.
Extruded polystyrene foamAn improved analogue of polystyrene foam. Lightweight and durable material, suitable for insulating dry and wet rooms. It is not recommended to use in a steam room. The maximum application temperature is similar to foam.
Foil insulationFoil insulation in slabs and rolls based on mineral wool or polyisocyanurate foam, covered with aluminum foil. Thanks to the reflective layer, the steam room quickly warms up and the heat is retained inside for a long time. Suitable for insulating chimneys.

Of all the above materials, foil insulation is in greatest demand on the market. The combination of quick, convenient installation, environmental safety and cost-effectiveness makes these universal materials in demand not only for new construction, but also for the reconstruction of baths and saunas, including those with adjacent walls to a residential building.

A separate category of foil insulation is the new generation of thermal insulating PIR boards.

Design

The design of an attached bathhouse has certain features. This stage should be carried out very thoughtfully, since the comfort and practicality of the future structure depends on it.

The first thing you need to decide is the shape of the building and its location. Will the bathhouse have a common wall with the house, or will the 2 buildings be separated by a small vestibule?

Finished projects

If the owner’s plans do not include the construction of a non-standard structure, then a factory-made structure can be installed in a separate room. It does not require wood fuel, but is heated by an electric boiler.

Independent design

Drawing up a project yourself requires a thorough study of construction technology. These norms cannot be violated even in an effort to increase comfort.

It is recommended to take into account the specific construction conditions, plan the number and size of premises, their location and the transition between buildings. The design of the base depends on how exactly the extension will be made.

Construction stages

  1. Create a project. It is necessary as for another structure. The plan should consist of a list of required materials, the layout of the internal structure of the bathhouse and the transition between the two buildings.
  2. Pour the foundation in the same way as the main housing.
  3. Make low doorways with a high threshold to retain heat.
  4. Waterproof the internal walls with vapor-reflecting foil and cover them with linden clapboard.
  5. Place the chimney on the other side of the house to prevent smoke from entering it.

Foundation

The foundation for the bathhouse extension is made without the help of professionals. The base can be made separately or combined with the base of the building. The first method is better - it shrinks evenly. The raw materials for the foundation should not differ from the main one. The method of tying two bases is determined by the presence of metal fastening brackets. The foundation of the bathhouse uses reinforced concrete piles and slabs, because its frame is lighter than that of a house.

Connection to the house and construction of the roof

The main point is the transition between buildings; it must be end-to-end. To begin with, the door from the bathhouse, exit to the dressing room, and then directly to the housing. This design retains heat better. If the transition is made as a vestibule, another room will appear, a locker room will be organized in it. It is recommended to use material identical to a brick house for the construction of the structure. The raw materials will affect the shrinkage of the new building, and cracks or crevices will appear; this situation does not threaten the main structure. It is recommended to make the roof single-pitched. The top must be attached to the brick wall and located above the main structure under the roof.

Fire safety

The first priority in building a bathhouse is its fire safety. There is a special device - a spark arrester. Install such a device on top of the pipe. Sold ready-made or made by hand. All wall joints are coated with bitumen mastic and treated with polyurethane foam. This action will help ensure proper shrinkage without damaging the walls of the main building. The dressing room and vestibule are made with windows and a door that open outward. The pipe is insulated inside with foil insulation and outside with asbestos. The raw materials are adapted to high temperatures and are non-toxic. An extension should not be built near the gas pipe to avoid fire during a leak. The completed building must be registered and inspected by the fire service.

Features of the floor

It in the dressing room should be warm enough so that a person can move around it barefoot. Another mandatory condition: the floor should not be slippery even for wet feet. In addition, the necessary moisture resistance of the coating must be provided.

A wooden floor satisfies all requirements. It can be arranged in this order.

  1. Laying roofing felt waterproofing on a bed of sand and clay.
  2. Installation of a system of logs made of wooden beams measuring at least 10x10 cm. All wooden elements are thoroughly impregnated with a composition that protects against rot and mold.
  3. Filling with insulating material (ash, slag, expanded clay).
  4. Subfloor flooring. It can be made from unedged boards and even slabs with a thickness of at least 20 mm.
  5. Laying protective covers: thermal insulation layer of mineral wool, polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene; waterproofing and vapor barrier with foil coating.
  6. Finished flooring made of boards.

Coniferous wood is quite suitable for arranging the flooring in the dressing room, but it is best to use materials with increased hardness and moisture resistance - larch, oak.

The floor in the waiting room covered with ceramic tiles is only permissible if a “warm floor” system is installed. You can use water or electric heating. The construction is made in this order.

  1. Applying a cushion of sand and crushed stone 35-45 cm thick.
  2. Laying waterproofing and reinforcing mesh.
  3. Pouring concrete screed.
  4. Laying water heating pipes or electric mats.
  5. Installation of a system of logs made of wooden beams.
  6. Laying a subfloor from unedged boards and waterproofing.
  7. Laying sheets of chipboard or plywood, followed by putty and primer of the surface.

Insulation materials

A comfortable microclimate in the dressing room can only be achieved through high-quality insulation. The thermal insulation material for the floor can be extruded foam, mineral or basalt wool. Typically, insulation is laid out in the space between the finished and white floors. A mandatory factor is the use of vapor and waterproofing materials.

Ceiling insulation is a necessary condition for reducing heat loss in a bathhouse (especially if we are talking about buildings with a cold attic). For thermal insulation, you can use basalt wool, as well as expanded clay of different fractions. Large granules provide thermal insulation, while small ones fill the space between them. Instead of expanded clay chips, clay or sawdust is suitable.

To increase the thermal efficiency of walls, mineral wool or foil foam is usually used. They are laid between the sheathing and finishing material.

A more modern heating option is to install a heated floor system. This can be a water or electric modification.

As a rule, installing a heated floor alone is not enough to heat a room, so you can use it to organize a convection heating system. This method can only be implemented when installing a water system. The heated floor is connected to installed radiators. The heating liquid (usually water, less often antifreeze) circulates through pipes under the floor covering and radiators, this allows you to achieve a comfortable temperature in the dressing room.

The choice of underfloor heating system should be approached responsibly. Each variety has characteristic advantages and disadvantages. If we talk about electric models, then an infrared floor is preferable, as it is as safe as possible in conditions of high humidity. It is capable of warming up a medium-sized dressing room in 15-30 minutes.

Another option to heat the dressing room is to use a special design of a sauna stove. Its heating part is located in the steam room, and the combustion part is moved outside the steam room (for example, into the dressing room). The firebox is designed to resemble a fireplace (a portal and appropriate decorative elements are used).

Closed fireboxes equipped with doors with a glass window allow you to enjoy the warmth and glow of the fire. The glass in such designs is thick (up to 8-10 cm), heat-resistant. This allows us to declare its safety. The presence of a self-cleaning system prevents the appearance of soot on the surface of the glass.

Construction of the foundation for the dressing room

Once the design work is completed, you can begin clearing space for the foundation. The first real stage is removing the fertile soil layer. Further work is as follows:

  1. Markings are made, then a trench is dug, 30 cm wide and half a meter deep.
  2. Sand is poured into it; there should be several layers of it, and each one must be spilled and thoroughly compacted.
  3. The formwork is installed, reinforcement is placed in it, its cross-section is up to 1 cm. Galvanized steel pins are additionally attached to the corners, to which the lower trim will be attached.
  4. Concrete is poured into the formwork, after which time is given to dry. In hot weather, it should be moistened periodically.

Work on the construction of the foundation ends with covering the foundation with one or two layers of roofing material.

Log house

This word is understood to mean anything - buildings made of timber with corresponding cut corners, and rounded logs. Models made from wild materials are also not uncommon, but such options are too labor-intensive and it will not be possible to solve the question of how to assemble a bathhouse from a log house yourself. Let's look at the example of a rounded log.

Cutting into the bowl must be done by a qualified craftsman; the result of the heat preservation of the bath depends on this. The lower crown must be laid on an insulated and moisture-resistant foundation.

To do this, use bitumen resin or several layers of roofing material. The crowns are carried up to the rafter system according to the diagram, and then the work can be completed for a year, for thorough shrinkage.

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