Water seal for sewerage: principle of operation, types and do-it-yourself installation

A water seal is a curved pipe or other structure that holds a certain amount of water inside. The device prevents the penetration of odors from the sewer and ensures the movement of wastewater

Sewerage is far from being a bottle of perfume; its composition is such that it emits extremely unpleasant, sharp and persistent odors. To protect against unpleasant odors, they came up with a sewerage device called a water seal.

This simple device reliably cuts off the internal space of the drain from the living space, saving the inhabitants of the house from unpleasant contact.

Manufacturing process

First, we take a clean and fresh plastic bag, straighten it, but do not unfold it (as if we wanted to put something in there).
Approximately in the center of the bag, use scissors to make a small slit.

Then insert the tip of the rubber tube into this slot.

Next, we wrap the section of the bag on the rubber tube next to the slot with thread. Having wound it well enough, we tie the ends of the threads with two or three knots.

Moreover, the winding with threads must be done tightly enough so that eventually the rubber tube in this place shrinks a little to ensure tightness. The tip of the rubber tube protruding from the bag should be within 15-20 mm.

Well, that's basically it.

The simplest water seal is ready!

Now all that remains is to install this water seal on the neck of the container in which we contain the fermenting wort.

In this case, I will install our water seal on a three-liter jar. To do this, it is advisable to first rinse our water seal with warm boiled water (but not hot).

Then we put a water seal on top of the neck of the jar.

Then, through a rubber tube, we put several rubber bands folded in two or three times onto the neck of the jar.

This way we seal the plastic bag around the neck of the jar.

The ends of the bag can be straightened out to create fewer wrinkles.

Place the tip of the rubber tube in a jar of water.

And now our water seal is already standing and starting to work.

By the way, notice in the photo above how the top of the plastic bag on the neck of the jar has risen and inflated a little. This suggests that everything is normal, that is, our water seal is airtight, it well holds the pressure of carbon dioxide released from the fermenting wort

Also, after some time, gas bubbles began to emerge from the end of the rubber tube lowered into a jar of water. Unfortunately, I couldn’t really photograph them, since it turned out that it is very difficult to catch the moment when the next bubble is released. That's why I don't include photos.

However, I will immediately note that the presence of these two factors, that is, the swelling of the upper part of the polyethylene of the water seal, as well as the presence of bubbles released from the rubber tube, is one hundred percent confirmation that the water seal is correctly made and installed, and fermentation is proceeding as normal.

If the two above factors are absent, this means that the water seal is not airtight.

By the way, the tightness of the water seal can be quickly checked in the following way.

To do this, you need to remove the tip of the rubber tube from the water, carefully shake off the remaining water inside and blow lightly into the rubber tube. You should not blow very hard, but so that the upper part of the polyethylene on the water seal is inflated. This pressure must be held for three to four seconds, while you need to carefully look at the water seal.

If the polyethylene gradually deflates, and you also hear a sound or a slight whistle from the escaping air, it means that the water seal is not airtight.

Leaks can be caused by three reasons.

The first two are a weak connection between the rubber tube and the plastic bag, or weak tension in the rubber bands pressing the bag to the neck of the jar.

These two reasons can be easily corrected; it is enough to tie the bag tightly to the rubber tube with threads, or it is better to wrap rubber bands around the ends of the bag on the neck of the jar. Here you can also use other longer rubber bands instead of rubber bands, or even wrap the neck with a rope, or maybe even electrical tape or tape (although I think this is unnecessary).

The third reason for leakage may be that the plastic bag itself is damaged. It may be punctured or scratched by something. Although, to be honest, this has never happened in my practice, since after all, the walls of a plastic bag are quite strong and you need to try very hard to damage them, for example, by poking them with something sharp.

However, in this case, you will have to replace the entire package, that is, essentially, re-make the water seal, although in principle this is not at all difficult and will not take much time.

In general, it should be noted that despite the apparent flimsiness, this water seal is very reliable. Suffice it to say that I have been using this type of water seal for many years, and it has almost never let me down.

So I can recommend to all home winemakers who have a need to make a water seal to use the design I proposed.

Well, that's all for me!

Prices for various models

Connecting the dishwasher to the water supply and sewerage
The price of a water seal for sewerage is determined by several components:

• material (metal is more expensive than polypropylene);
• manufacturer (the most expensive European models);
• complexity of the device (bottle ones under the sink are the cheapest, and overflow devices and devices with several drains are more expensive).

Approximate prices for different models are presented in the comparison table below.

Where can I buy

You can purchase a water seal for sewerage at any plumbing store, as well as in many hardware and construction supermarkets. The cost of a product is influenced primarily by its type, size and brand. To a certain extent, the price is also affected by the region of the Russian Federation in which the purchase was made.

For example, in Chelyabinsk (Santekhorbita, EuroDom stores, online store World of Plumbing) and Rostov-on-Don (online store SantekhMega, SantekhOpt, Three Inch stores) similar products are sold on average 10% cheaper than in the capital (“Plumbing Store”, “House of Plumbing”, “SUpSan”), Tyumen (“Water Magician”, online stores “Ark” and “Aquatoria”) and Novosibirsk ( online store “Plumbing of Siberia”, m-ns “Meduza” and “AquaTermService”).

How to use

Check valve for sewerage 110 mm

The water seal for wine is placed in the prepared hole on the lid, which will cover the container with mash, then it is filled with water to the required level. The device will ensure complete sealing of the fermentation tank.

In addition, it serves as an indicator of the activity of the fermentation process. The intensity of bubble formation will determine the degree of readiness of the product. While they are being released, the maturation process continues. As soon as their appearance has stopped, you can begin distilling the mash.

If you use a water seal made from a rubber glove, you must pierce it correctly. The number of punctures will depend on the volume of wort. For a container of 1-2 liters, one hole is enough, from 3 to 20 liters - two. For containers with a volume of more than 20 liters, at least 5 holes will be needed. They will not harm the finished product, since the volume of air entering through them is minimal.

The integrity of the glove should be checked daily. There are frequent cases when it flies off or breaks. It happens that she is pulled inside. This indicates that the container was not hermetically sealed and foreign impurities got into the mash.

Why is this necessary?

With rare exceptions, sewerage is discharged outside the building below ground level. There are several reasons for this:

• Temperature regime of the soil
  . Below the freezing level, the soil has a temperature of 8 - 12C, which allows you to not worry about pipes freezing;
• Protection from mechanical damage
  , which is provided by deepening the outlet to the well;
• Finally, buried pipes do not clutter up the yard
  and do not create obstacles for transport and pedestrians.

At the same time, the basements and ground floors of many buildings are used for warehouses, administrative offices, gyms, etc. Often, plumbing fixtures are installed in them, and their sides are significantly lower than the well cover.

When a sewer or yard drain becomes clogged, the level begins to rise. Much earlier than it reaches the level of the well cover, the wastewater begins to flow to the plumbing fixtures in the basement.

We are talking about the drains of the entire house, or even several houses, since the exploited basement floor turns out to be the lowest point in the sewer network backed up by a clog.

Sewage check valves and gates eliminate the counterflow of wastewater: as soon as it begins to flow into the building from the outside, the lumen of the pipe is completely blocked.

Installing a water seal

• If installation of a siphon with one drain is required, the presence of one grid, fixed with a lower nut adjacent to the drain, is allowed.
• In the version with two outputs, you will need to install a plumbing part with the appropriate parameters.
• If you need to connect household appliances to a drainage system, there is a need for a siphon with an extra outlet.
• The bathtub will require the presence of a tee to which the overflow pipe will be attached. When water reaches the hole, it will come out through the top drain, thereby protecting against flooding.

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Connecting a water seal requires that specific conditions be met:

• sinks and bathtubs are connected via an autonomous 50 mm siphon;
• It is prohibited to simultaneously connect two sinks to one water shut-off system;
• remember the sealing ring (1.5 cm) on the edge of the outlet pipe. It is necessary to align the joints of the pipe circumferences and the socket;
• Gaps and cracks are masked with sealant.

Tips and tricks for use

For sinks, do not use a corrugated siphon, despite the fact that these pipes are flexible and compactly laid. The downside is that debris is deposited in the bends of the corrugation, and the diameter of the pipe decreases. It is advisable to use it for a bath.

It is undesirable to expose the water seal to boiling water or hot oil - this will lead to cracks in the pipe and, as a result, leakage.

For rarely used plumbing fixtures, only dry water seals are required. If there is a cold effect on the sewer, you should not use a combined float design. Modern siphons are made of polymer materials, they do not rot, are easy to install, and serve for a long time. Metal products are chrome plated to resist corrosion.

The reason for the appearance of an odor in a room with properly installed hydraulic equipment can be depressurization of drain pipes, a long-term operated sewer system in which bacteria multiply on the vessel wall, or a broken water plug. To check the tightness of the equipment, you need to bring a lit candle to the opening of the sink or toilet. If the flame does not fluctuate, there is no depressurization and it is enough to pour a disinfectant into the sewer.

Plug failure occurs if the diameter of the sewer pipes is small and the volume of drained water is significant. A pressure difference is created in the pipes and the liquid moves in the opposite direction. In this case, it is enough to open the tap for 2-3 minutes so that the water restores the seal in the siphon. This will solve the odor problem.

Reasons for failure

The water seal of the sewerage system is a structurally simple product that does not contain complex elements, so its failure occurs quite rarely. The following situations arise most often:

• A water seal failure in a sewer occurs when the pipe in an apartment in a multi-storey building, a cottage, or in a country house along the riser above is closed or clogged. In this case, when large volumes of water are drained, the vacuum formed in the riser pipe carries water from the water seal with it, and it opens. This problem can be eliminated by cleaning the riser pipe or installing a vacuum valve at its end.
• Blockages are the most common cause of failure of water seals; dry operating devices are especially susceptible to this disease. If debris gets under the lowering float or into the closing sleeve of the membrane, they cannot close and foreign odors enter the room.
• Improper installation is another reason why water seals malfunction. Failure to observe slopes in pipes, spontaneous straightening of corrugations, and violation of the assembly sequence of complex systems leads to incorrect operation of locking devices.
• Leaks can also cause water seals to fail. A situation that often arises is that water flows out of the bottle elbow through a poorly screwed sump lid at the bottom.

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Factory designs

If you don’t want to make a water seal yourself, you can always purchase it in specialized stores. They are inexpensive, but at the same time they work flawlessly and look aesthetically pleasing. As a rule, they are presented in two options:

• Double-chamber is a curved tube with two chambers that are connected in series to each other. Water is poured inside, and the upper part is sealed using a special plug. The design is made of durable food-grade plastic.
• Collapsible or three-chamber, which is a collapsible glass into three sections. The main glass is filled with water, into which gases enter through a tube. The advantage of this model is the ability to thoroughly wash all parts, which increases the service life.

Regardless of the chosen design of the water seal, it is necessary to check the tightness before installing it on the suley. If it is noticeable that the contents are actively fermenting, and bubbles do not appear in the water seal, then you need to check the quality of the insulation of all connections as quickly as possible.

Laying a drainage sewer system

Such a drainage system is more suitable for small steam rooms designed for a small number of visitors. Sewerage in a bathhouse based on drainage is arranged as follows:

1. A drainage well is installed next to the steam room to a depth below the soil freezing level (up to 150 cm).
2. A clay layer (no more than 11 cm) is poured onto the bottom of the prepared pit to prevent wastewater from seeping into the ground.
3. The clay is covered with a composition of expanded clay, crushed stone, gravel and sand up to 50 cm thick. Bulk materials are used to create a drainage cushion.
4. A layer of soil is poured over the drainage and compacted thoroughly.
5. The drainage well is equipped with a special gutter, which is used to drain wastewater into earthen trenches.
6. The sewer pipe laid from the bathhouse to the drainage well is insulated. This will prevent it from freezing during the winter.

If the drainage sewer is laid on sandstone, the drainage well can be replaced with a drainage trench up to 110 cm deep and up to 35 cm wide. The upper part of the trench is protected by a crushed stone layer 25 cm thick. This ensures that the wastewater will be discharged into the drainage base.

Classic water seal

You will need: a plastic tube, a lid and a jar.

Winemakers consider this design not only the simplest, but also extremely reliable. You need to make a small hole in the lid and place a straw in it. Next, you should seal the junction of the tube and the lid, most often this is done with glue. The free tip is placed in a small container with plain water. It is very convenient to use a regular dropper in this design.

If you are preparing wine in large containers, it is better to use a larger diameter tube. Otherwise, its end may become clogged with foam, after which the water seal will cease to play its role in fermentation.

Winemakers also love this device because it makes it very easy to determine the end of fermentation. You just need to watch the bubbles in the water. If they have not been observed for a day, it means that active fermentation has ended.

Many winemakers face the following problem. When fermentation occurs, a sour, rather unpleasant odor appears in the apartment. In private homes, this situation rarely occurs, because there the can can be placed in a non-residential premises.

The solution to this problem is quite simple. We need to make a more advanced jar into which the CO2 goes. Firstly, a roof with two holes is put on it. Secondly, 2 tubes are passed through them. One comes from the mash jar, and the second goes into the sink. The first tube is immersed in a jar of water by 2-3 cm. But the second one should not reach the edge of the water.

CO2 enters the jar through the outlet from the fermentation container, after which the gas overcomes the liquid column. Now he rises safely and goes into the sewer. The water becomes a barrier through which carbon dioxide cannot return to the fermentation tank.

Corrugated, tubular siphons

In this situation, the basis of the water seal becomes a plastic pipe. It can be either smooth or corrugated, but in any case flexible. Smooth pipes bend worse, so each bend takes up a lot of space; this does not affect functionality, but the aesthetic appearance of the room deteriorates. Therefore, corrugated systems that accommodate bends of the required length in a very limited space are more popular.

These systems have the following advantages:

• the ability to adjust the siphon loops after installing the entire system;
• the ability to move a sink or other device without disconnecting the siphon.

Principle of operation

A hydraulic valve can be considered a type of sanitary siphon. The small volume of water inside helps make the atmosphere in the serviced building more comfortable. Normally, the liquid should be present in a special device continuously. But with prolonged inactivity of the toilet (urinal), the natural evaporation of water will gradually lead to a loss of protective properties. Therefore, it is inevitable that an odor will occur during the first flush after a long break.

However, when sewerage is actively used, the supply of liquid in the hydraulic seal is renewed. Therefore, it is possible to successfully contain the entry of bad odors

The normal operation of fan ventilation is critically important, because without it, the shutter is likely to fail. With this development of events, the liquid passes into the system

Of course, there can be no question of completing the main task. But this should not be regarded as a drawback of the operating principle of the device: with proper setup and operation, problems are eliminated.

Installation

Installation of even high-quality and reliable valves must be done very carefully. On the most reliable and apparently even floors, it is necessary to make a screed, orienting it along the beacons in the direction of the drain. It is necessary to complete the cutting of drain elements only after accurately determining the height of the approach of the floor covering to the drainage point. Competent and accurate performance of the work allows even with a slight slope to eliminate the occurrence of puddles.

The question of whether it is necessary to provide full access and the ability to replace any element depends on the importance of the object. This is quite relevant in houses, but not in baths

When installing sewerage on the first floors of buildings, it is necessary to lay the system at a depth that at least coincides with the frost line. It is recommended to insulate the floors under the screed with a layer of expanded clay 200 mm thick with the addition of a cement mortar of a greasy consistency. It is also necessary to provide for the possibility of periodically washing the valves from dirt that gets into them.

The sequence of attaching the hydraulic barrier to the sewer is as follows:

• securing the grille;
• siphon connection;
• pressing this siphon with a nut from below.

Professional plumbers always recommend sizing their valves for any plumbing product. When two devices are placed on opposite sides of the same wall, both must have a separate barrier. If the diameters of the outlet and sewer pipes are different, sealing rings are used. The thickness of such rings is at least 1.5 cm. Each joining point between the siphon and the sewer must be sealed.

To increase the tightness, you can use silicone sealants or cement mortar. Tees are installed under the bathtub, which have a separate inlet for overflow. Auxiliary protective devices can be used to support the valves. Most often these are check valves and aerators. The selection of the location where the apparatus will be installed must be completed before the installation of the sewer system begins.

To do the job properly, you will need:

• screwdriver;
• adjustable wrench;
• sealing tape;
• silicone-based sealant (it is better than cement in a number of indicators).

An error in determining the appropriate diameter can lead to the appearance of abnormal vacuums inside the sewer. When the drained water fills the pipe 100%, a vacuum area is formed following the overfilled area. This can lead to rupture of sewer connections and seals. In the most severe cases, the siphon body is likely to break, so you need to carefully determine the required cross-section. The use of a mesh with a fine mesh and a grid, which is mounted on the drain hole of the sink, helps to eliminate the accumulation of fine sediment near the bottom of the hoses and flasks.

Dry shutter device

The most common devices:

1. Membrane. Under the pressure of water passing through the drain, the valve opens, and after the water passes, the spring moves the membrane to its original position. Access to unpleasant odors is reliably blocked.
2. Float It works due to the fact that the float is always on the surface of the water seal, and when the water evaporates, the float ends up at the very bottom and closes the passage.
3. Pendulum. Under the influence of gravitational forces, the mechanical device constantly strives to occupy a position that blocks the sewer pipe.
4. Based on the molecular memory properties of the material. Tubes made of elastic material are used, which always tends to return to its original shape.

Dry and combined drains are made from durable materials (mainly plastic housing and stainless steel grate) using modern equipment. The model range of these devices is expanding; you can select a dry drain equipped with a check valve to protect against the entry of wastewater from the sewer system into the room in case of flooding, as well as select models that can be used in unheated rooms at sub-zero temperatures, as well as heavy-duty, capable remain sealed under significant impact loads.

Some non-standard options

When listing the following methods, the saying involuntarily comes to mind that “the need for invention is cunning.” What exceptionally inventive master winemakers will go to!

• use a regular valve with a ball from a vodka bottle;
• adapt nipples from bicycle inner tubes complete with soft thin capillary hoses;
• put an inflatable children's balloon on a bottle of wort and poke a hole in it;
• Insert cocktail tubes and juice straws into the hole in the lid.

To make the connections airtight, you can drip them with wax, paraffin, use pieces of plasticine or

Whatever water seal is used in the distillation of homemade drinks, you need to remember the importance of a tightly fitting lid, the gas pressure in the container with fermenting wort, and the aging time of the finished wine.

Guidelines for choosing a water seal

If you are installing or replacing plumbing fixtures (bathtub, sink or toilet), you will definitely need a siphon.

To select a device that fully complies with plumbing, it is necessary to take into account a number of factors, including:

• dimensions of the assembled device;
• siphon type;
• the material from which the pipes and fasteners are made;
• number of drains or additional connections;
• protection against blockages;
• diameter of inlet and outlet;
• presence or absence of overflow.

Let’s assume that for a kitchen sink, the most suitable option is a bottle model that traps food particles. You can also use a knee device, but then all the waste will flow into the sewer pipe, and over time there is a risk of blockage.

For both sinks and bathtubs, models with an overflow are considered more effective, preventing room flooding. The recommended material is polypropylene, but for finishing the external parts it is better to buy models with chrome parts

If the project involves installing a sink or washbasin with two sinks, a device with two drain points will be useful. Its operating principle is the same, the only difference is in the design.

Before purchasing, be sure to measure the size of the space where the installation will take place. It happens that the siphon simply does not fit in the allotted space (this is especially true for the close gap between the bathroom and the floor). If you choose the right water seal, there will be much fewer problems with its installation and repair.

If the water seal from the siphon is pulled into the sewer, the system is modernized by installing a vacuum valve:

Double turn

According to the principle of operation and shape, such sewer water seals resemble knee seals, but differ from them in that they have not 1, but 2 bends. The pipes from which they are made have a special shape that allows them to avoid blockages and at the same time withstand extreme pressure loads and shocks

Such properties have made it possible to widely use double-turn siphons in industrial enterprises, where it is important to continuously remove large volumes of water. The design is also perfectly protected from leaks

It is adjustable, which allows it to be installed in any, even very narrow places.

Bottle siphons are easier to maintain than double-turn siphons, but it is the latter that provide a high degree of operational reliability, which in some cases is irreplaceable.

Corrugated

They are polypropylene pipes with a flexible folded structure. One end of a siphon of this type is attached to the drain of a plumbing fixture, and the other to the entrance to the sewer. Between these points, the tube itself can be bent and positioned in a large number of options, which makes corrugated water seals the only ones applicable in small apartments.

By placing the device as required by the space under the bathtub or sink, you can equip even the most modest room. This type of sewer siphon is easy to install. The disadvantages are relatively rapid wear and formation of blockages. They arise due to the fact that hard particles - hair, food, pieces of soap, etc. - accumulate on a folded surface faster than on a smooth surface. If the owners notice that the tube is sagging, it should be replaced as soon as possible.

Siphons with overflows

This is a separate type of water seal for sewerage, which provides for the presence of an additional drain hole in the plumbing. They do it in order to prevent water from pouring out of the bathtub or sink onto the floor if for some reason it suddenly stops flowing into the main drain hole. When using a siphon with an overflow, its main pipe is mounted as usual, and the additional one is connected to the overflow hole.

Water seals of this type are popular because of their safety. However, they also have a drawback. This is the possibility of excess water being poured out while taking a bath or washing. The owner may incur additional financial costs to pay for utilities.

If you are planning to install a siphon with overflow, you should choose the right model. Those who have enough space can afford to install the most reliable metal siphon. And those whose homes have little space will benefit from purchasing compact and flexible plastic models.

Another important nuance is the choice of overflow according to its throughput. If it turns out to be too small than required by the amount of water in the bath, then the consequences of using such a siphon can even be dangerous. Data on the technical parameters of each siphon should be immediately found out when examining it in the store. Buying the wrong part will be a useless and unpleasant waste of money.

Varieties

There are only three main types of water seals:

1. Knees.
2. Bottled.
3. Dry.

Knee water seals

The knee water seal is the simplest device in design, consisting of two U-shaped elbows connected in the shape of the letter S.

The role of the container for the locking liquid is played by the half to which the drain pipe of the plumbing fixture is connected.

At the end of the water flow, liquid remains in it.

The inflection point of the first knee should be 5–6 centimeters lower than the bend of the second. Then the locking will be reliable.

If the drain hole is located too low and a water seal made of two elbows does not fit under the plumbing fixture, then one elbow can be used. Its bend should be such that the remaining water fills the knee completely.

The device is simple and reliable. It can be made of cast iron, polypropylene, and in rare cases, bronze.

Its main advantage is that it can withstand quite high pressure in the system, and its throughput is determined only by the internal diameter of the pipe.

Therefore, knee valves are used when connecting bathtubs and toilets, in which they are part of the structure; in toilets produced recently, there may be two such valves.

Their disadvantage is that they cannot be disassembled. To eliminate very stubborn blockages, it is necessary to use a special tool - a plumbing cable or disassemble the line.

A type of knee water seals are devices with an additional outlet in the housing, to which, for example, a bathroom overflow pipe or a washing machine drain hose is connected. They are usually made from polypropylene.

Bottle water seals

This type of water seal plays two roles - a locking device and a sump. The outlet pipe from the drain hole is located inside the container, which has its own outlet connected to the sewer system.

The bottom edge of the drain pipe should be below the level of the outlet, which ensures reliable locking.

Most often, such water seals are made of polypropylene, and their design is collapsible. It consists of a drain pipe with a protective grill and a settling tank.

The drain pipe is connected to the sump tank by simply passing it into the sump hole and deforming the sealing gasket when tightening the nut on the body.

This connection is not strong enough, it cannot withstand high water pressure, so bottle water seals are not used to connect bathtubs and toilets.

The settling tank, in addition to the outlet, has a threaded bottom lid, which allows for cleaning of accumulated sediment.

Bottle valves are easy to install, but can only be connected to drains on sinks and other small-capacity sanitary fixtures. They must be periodically cleared of sediment; eliminating blockages in them does not require skilled labor.

Gangways

A type of bottle water seals are the so-called drains - drain holes in the floor.

They are installed if the outlet to the prefabricated main can only be made horizontally, along the ceiling.

The drains are most often made of metal and non-removable, and the settling tank is cleaned after removing the drain grate.

Dry water seals

Dry water seals are fundamentally different devices; the prefix “hydro” in their name is used simply by analogy, in accordance with the location under the sanitary fixture. The principle of their operation is based on the so-called nipple system.

This is a polypropylene pipe with threads on both ends. Inside it there is a flexible membrane that really looks like a nipple. It allows water to flow in only one direction, closing immediately as soon as the flow of liquid stops.

The device is quite interesting, but, like any “European thing,” it is very difficult to use. If you use the sink to wash dishes, it will not last long.

Types ↑

Currently, there are several types of check valves, which differ not only in design, but also in their scope. Let's look at the most common varieties.

Non-return air valve for sewerage

The air check valve is designed to block unpleasant odors from the riser and equalize the air pressure in the system.

Photo: check air valve

When drain water enters the riser, an area of ​​rarefied air is formed in it, which must be stabilized with external pressure.

If the design of the riser does not provide for ventilation, then this process will take place through the internal distribution of sewer pipes.

Clear signs of this problem:

• extraneous sounds arising from plumbing fixtures. A characteristic squelch will be heard;
• unpleasant odors coming from appliance drains.

The principle of operation of the air valve is to supply air into the sewer system and prevent its flow back.

The barrier is usually a one-way opening rubber membrane. When water is drained into the system, it opens under air pressure, allowing the masses to drain.

What tools may be needed for installing metal-plastic pipes, read the article: installation of metal-plastic pipes. Read here for details on installing a screen under a corner bathtub with your own hands.

Vacuum

For houses where there is no ventilation pipe vented to the outside and a vacuum valve is used to stabilize the pressure

Structurally consists of:

• air intake chamber;
• rod;
• rubber membrane.

As the pressure in the riser increases, the rod rises, releasing excess air.

Photo: vacuum check valve for sewerage

The reduced pressure acts on the rubber membrane, which opens and allows the amount of air necessary to stabilize.

Ball

The design of the ball valve is one of the oldest, but at the same time, the most reliable reverse locking systems.

Structurally, it consists of:

• a passage chamber located at an acute angle relative to the flow of movement of the drainage masses;
• ball.

The material used to make the ball is rubber or rubberized cast iron.

The reverse flow is blocked by blocking the pipe opening with the volume of the ball.

Photo: ball check valve for sewerage

It is this model of check valve that is installed for external sewerage and in systems with high throughput.

Receptionists

The scope of application of the check valve is to prevent the reverse flow of the sucked liquid. Can be used for oil pipelines, water pumping systems, etc.

Installed at the end of vertically located pumping units.

They are not used for organizing the sewer system of the residential sector.

Check valve

The check valve has the same operating principle as a shutter valve. However, its functional properties differ.

Using pressure sensors and the direction of fluid movement, the system automatically closes the pipeline with a valve. In the event of a malfunction of the sensors, the design provides for manual blocking of the water flow.

Photo: reverse shutter

Installed in apartment buildings and industrial buildings.

Wafer

Installing a check valve increases the length of the entire pipeline, which may be unacceptable for large pipelines.

Photo: Wafer check valve

They are installed between the connecting flanges of cast iron or steel pipes and perform all the functions of a check valve.

Photo: operation of a wafer valve

To block, a flap mechanism is used to block the reverse flow of drain water.

Structurally, they can be single or double-leaf. Installed in external sewage systems.

Why do you need a water seal?

During fermentation, sugar is decomposed by yeast into water, alcohol and carbon dioxide, which is obtained in fairly large quantities (4 m³ when producing 1 liter of alcohol). The accumulation of gas in the container leads to the formation of increased pressure, which should be eliminated. Carbon dioxide should be removed, but in such a way that oxygen does not reach the fermentation products. At distilleries, the exhaust gas is collected and converted into carbon dioxide by increasing pressure. At home, the gas is vented into the air or a discharge device connected to the sewer system. To prevent air from entering, special devices called water seals are used.

There has been a long-standing debate about the need for check valves. Some winemakers believe that mash should breathe. During the active phase of fermentation, the released carbon dioxide prevents air from coming into contact with the mash and the process of oxidation of alcohol into vinegar does not occur. It should be noted that the gas released is much heavier than air and always falls down. But as soon as the post-fermentation phase begins, the process of gas evolution decreases and in a container without a water seal, the mash gains access to oxygen, as a result of which the process of processing alcohol into vinegar begins. As a result of processing oxidized mash, moonshine will acquire an unpleasant odor and taste, while the yield of alcohol-containing liquid will be significantly reduced. Therefore, novice producers of homemade drinks should use devices that protect the contact of processed products with oxygen, leaving experiments with breathing mash to more experienced specialists.

What it is?

The fermentation process is carried out thanks to the vital activity of yeast.
These active microorganisms, feeding on sugar, produce alcohol and carbon dioxide as a byproduct. Our task is to preserve the alcohol and get rid of carbon dioxide. If you simply open the fermentation container, the gas will of course evaporate, but oxygen will enter the mash. It will become a catalyst for temporarily inactive bacteria inhabiting the mash. By reacting with oxygen, they convert the alcohol into acetic acid. To prevent souring, it is customary to close the mash tightly. But the amount of gas released is so great that the bottle will explode under its pressure already at the beginning of fermentation. That's what a water seal is used for.

The operating principle and name were borrowed from plumbing siphons. Initially, a water seal is a system of tubes (hoses, containers), the cross-section of which at the outlet is completely blocked by water. In this case, the water barrier does not prevent gas from escaping from the mash, but does not allow oxygen to enter. The already simple design is constantly modernized by experienced moonshiners. Therefore, a great variety of types of homemade water seals for homemade wine and mash have appeared. By the way, using water is not always necessary.

Types of water seals for sewerage

1. The bottle siphon looks like a flask, which can be easily disassembled for cleaning and rinsing. The inlet pipe is connected to the drain, and the outlet pipe is connected to the home sewerage pipeline, which often stops functioning due to a clogged siphon. By the way, you can remove the blockage without a plumber. Simply remove the device, disassemble it and wash it.
2. The sewer knee water seal has a U-shape and to increase productivity, in the case of a large amount of drained water, it is recommended to use an initial pipeline with a diameter of 110 mm or the use of the same adapter. If you do not use the plumbing for 40 - 50 days, the water will evaporate from the plug, which will lead to the penetration of odors from the sewer into the room. Therefore, if you rarely use this sanitary point, use a different type of siphon or periodically fill it with water.
3. A dry water seal for sewerage copes well with the moment of drying out, and therefore is used especially in places of rare use, for example, in dachas. It is installed individually or together with a conventional water seal. And if you want to know how to make a dry water seal with your own hands, then simply place a tennis ball in such a way that it closes the entrance to the sewer pipe. When water appears, it will float up again and provide fluid passage.

This type of product has two subtypes, namely: float and pendulum.

When the water dries out and the water evaporates, the float valve drops and shuts off the pipeline.

The pendulum subtype is based on the gravitational properties of materials and the ability to transfer the center of gravity. Some manufacturers have already begun to use molecular memory capabilities on these devices.

1. Corrugated tube siphons are becoming increasingly popular due to their ability to accommodate required bend sizes even in tight areas of use. The advantage of this system is the ability to adjust the loop of the device after its installation, and also, the sink itself or other plumbing fixture can be freely moved without turning off the siphon.
2. Double-turn products can be with vertical or horizontal joining, which is especially in demand for shower stalls, bathtubs and bidets. Double-turn siphons have a special pocket for water formed by two opposing elbows made of corrugated or more rigid pipe.
3. The shower drain is used with a removable water seal that has a settling tank for heavy impurities.

Features of the bottle siphon

The bottle siphon is the most common. It can be disassembled, so this type is easy to repair by replacing individual elements. If a valuable item falls into the water inlet, you can quickly get it out by disassembling the siphon and rinsing it. Its compact dimensions allow the use of a bottle siphon in the pedestal of a tulip sink.

In their shape, such devices can be S-shaped or P-shaped. The inspection cover is installed on top, this allows you to monitor the condition of the siphon and its contents.

Selection rules

The balloon type of hydraulic valve resists pillar collapse very well. However, such devices are more difficult to operate - they will have to be systematically cleaned of dirt. Such models are widely used in bathrooms. If you want to choose a device that is less susceptible to contamination, you should choose a double-turn format. The level of performance and protection from damaging factors are determined by the depth of the knees.

The double-turn hydraulic valve is often chosen for kitchens. After all, it is precisely this device, which is less susceptible to contamination, that encounters grease and other impurities even earlier than traps and purifiers. A dry hydraulic seal, as manufacturers claim, helps to reliably prevent the penetration of gases beyond the sewer. It is also claimed that such systems effectively block the return of liquid from the drain. However, the increased tendency to pollution makes it possible to safely use such barriers only where the sewerage system will rarely be used.

Other selection criteria are the diameter of the sewer and the number of drain channels. In bathrooms, units with overflow are usually used. If the device must serve a washing machine, it must have additional outlets. The same approach is used to service dishwashers. Sinks with two drains should be connected to siphons equipped with a pair of pipes.

The use of cast iron bottle siphons is not recommended. This is an outdated option; now polymer modifications are installed almost everywhere. Cast iron can only be used very rarely for a sewer element. The selection of a specific model is adjusted for the number of connected devices. The more there are, the higher the overall performance should be. The presence of a sump is good where there is a high risk of losing valuable things - most often these are sinks.

The advantage of the bottle design is that longer service life can be guaranteed than when using corrugated pipes. Smooth tubular elements are used only in isolated cases, because bending the pipe is technically difficult, and the resulting structure requires a lot of space. A bottle water seal made from a corrugated pipe has universal characteristics and can be assembled with your own hands. To connect to the toilet, corrugated pipes with a cross-section of 11 cm are used. If the need arises, adjusting the length of the loop is possible even with an installed and connected system.

Another advantage of the “bottle” is the ability to dismantle and then move sinks or toilets over short distances without removing the siphons. The design of the ladder is always more complex than that of other hydraulic valves. A similar element is mounted in shower trays or directly in floor coverings. The complexity of the product composition is justified by its expanded functionality. The drain, along with containing foreign odors and draining liquid, maintains the tightness of the connection with the floor and becomes a kind of pre-filter.

To learn how to make a water seal for a sewer with your own hands, see the following video.

Kinds

The structure for creating a water seal is called a siphon; it can have a different design. Most often used:

• Bottle - a universal option, suitable for any type of plumbing;
• Tubular - smooth or corrugated, used for kitchen sinks and washbasins;
• Drains are a special type of siphon used in shower cabins, as well as in the washing rooms of baths.

In addition, there are dry siphons in which, instead of a water plug, a membrane is used that acts as a check valve. Such a shutter is good because it will restrain the movement of not only gases, but also liquids.

The use of such equipment is especially recommended in apartments located on the lower floors of multi-storey buildings. It will prevent the flow of wastewater coming from the upper apartments through the plumbing when a blockage forms in the sewer pipe. Let's figure out what types of siphons exist and what features of installing this sewer element with your own hands exist.

Bottle

The bottle siphon is often used to assemble sewer systems. The device has a specific shape; the device consists of a sump and a flask. There is always water at the bottom of the siphon, creating a water seal.

To connect two drains at the same time, a unified bottle-type siphon can be used. This option has a curved pipe that connects to a tee with connected outlets from the plumbing elements.

You need to choose a siphon taking into account its throughput. The more elements you plan to connect to the siphon, the more productive the model should be. The main advantage of this model is that it can be easily cleaned without disconnecting the siphon from the sink.

The presence of a sump in the siphon allows you to save valuables (for example, jewelry) that could accidentally end up in the sewer system. In addition, the bottle-type siphon has a rigid structure, so it will last longer than models made from corrugated pipe.

Tubular

A siphon is made of a smooth or corrugated pipe, which is bent so as to form a kind of “loop” located below the main pipe in level. The water plug will be located in this “loop”.

Smooth tubular siphons are rarely used, since a regular pipe is difficult to bend, and in addition, this model takes up a lot of space. Therefore, in most cases, a corrugated pipe is used to make a siphon. It is easy to bend a corrugated pipe in the desired direction; the finished siphon takes up minimal space. The option has the following advantages:

• easy to assemble by yourself;
• The model has a universal purpose; it can be installed with any element of plumbing, including a toilet. In the latter case, a corrugated pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is used;

• if necessary, you can easily adjust the length of the siphon loop, even if the system is already installed and connected;
• you can remove and move (short distances) the sink without disconnecting the siphon from it.

Ladder

Compared to a conventional siphon, the drain has a more complex design. This element is installed in the shower tray or directly in the floor covering. Full range of work on ladder installation:

• connecting the drain to the sewer outlet;
• performing thermal and waterproofing;
• production of concrete screed with a slope towards the ladder;
• laying moisture-resistant coating.

If a regular siphon should only provide water drainage, then the drain performs additional functions:

• ensures tight connection to the floor;
• provides preliminary filtration, preventing large contaminants from entering the pipe.

In addition, the drain, like a regular siphon, creates a water seal, which prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors into the room.