Each bathhouse has a stove to heat the room. For finishing and isolation, a portal for a sauna stove is used. This structure favorably emphasizes the beauty of the firebox, covers poorly located structural elements, gives seriousness to the entire structure, and protects nearby wooden elements from fire. Each person who thinks about arranging a bathhouse personally decides how to approach the arrangement of the frame. It is made from simple or designer materials and can withstand hours of heat from a hot oven.
How to fold a sauna portal
As with any large-scale construction, a preliminary construction plan is required.
To ensure an exact match between the expected and the obtained results, it is necessary to measure all sides and adhere to the planned dimensions when laying the walls.
- Clay - 2 parts.
- Sand - 1 part.
- Water - 0.5 parts.
Construction of walls
Having marked a place for the door, they continue to work, erecting the side parts to the right and left of them. There is nothing complicated here, you need to be careful.
To ensure the quality of the resulting frame, bandage the seams.
Remove excess cement with a trowel so that there are no unnecessary reliefs on the wall.
A hammer is used to level the height of all bricks. Tap each brick so that the walls come out even along the stove.
Decorative completion
On the front side of the stove, where the firebox and woodshed are located, you can lay out various figures. For example, as most people do, line up the front frame with the letter P. You can alternate bricks around the firebox: white with red, yellow with white, etc.
Floor installation
When designing a device for the floor, you need to know its weight, based on which you can calculate the strength of the floors. Matching the weight of the structure and the rigidity of the installation area will prevent the floor from breaking. There are special online services that allow you to make such a calculation. All you need is accurate information about the cross-section and size of beams and joists.
Using approximate load values, we will consider options for constructing a floor covering on which the heating device will subsequently be installed.
The stove with base plate and all structural elements weighing no more than 700 kg can be installed on a wooden floor with support beams. More massive structures require additional construction of a foundation - a foundation for installation.
The following dimensions are observed when constructing a wooden base.
Step between joists 1 meter
| Span length | Log dimensions |
| 2 meters | 75×150 mm |
| 3 meters | 100×175 mm |
| 4 meters | 175×200 mm |
| 5 meters | 150×225 mm |
| 6 meters | 175×250 mm |
A 50 mm thick floorboard is placed on top of the log. All wooden parts of the floor structure are ideally treated with fire-retardant impregnation.
How to calculate the size and volume of a brick
Size
The side walls can be up to 30 cm wide. The height can be left the same or increased.
In general, the design can be either square or rectangular, when the height dimensions are greater than the width.
Calculation of brick volume
To calculate the amount of brick needed, you should perform several steps.
- Measure the height of one brick, divide by the area of the walls forming the frame of the portal.
- The width of the side will depend on the type of brick you chose to make the portal.
- Another 15–20% of the material should be added to the resulting number (quantity), in case there are misfires (breakages) or shortages due to errors in calculations.
At the same time, you can calculate the costs of consumables
There is no point in saving on bricks for the portal, because it is the main element of the interior that attracts attention
Technologies
There are several proven technologies for bricklaying around metal furnace equipment:
- Heat shield. A brick fence that does not exceed the dimensions of the furnace in height. Promotes better heat transfer.
- Continuous cladding. It quickly releases heat to the surrounding space, which increases the cost of heating the premises. This technology is used when it is necessary to make a beautiful decorative design, sacrificing the performance of the furnace equipment.
- Convector masonry, which has vents. Suitable for metal heating units. In this case, the size of the steam room is not important.
Cast iron stove lining
Recommendations for performing the work
- The creation of a furnace portal must be approached after careful preparation.
- Correct preliminary calculations will help achieve the desired result.
- In order not to complicate the work with alternating layouts, make a wall entirely of white brick, which is very easy to decorate using paint.
- If you do not have masonry skills, it is better to entrust the work to a professional.
But despite the simplicity of this device, the brick portal is the main element of decoration in the bathhouse. Nothing will decorate it better than a self-made portal, a photo of which you will be proud to show to your friends and acquaintances.
Solution
In addition to the question of which brick to line the stove in the bathhouse with, you also need to decide on the mortar for the masonry. There are two options: make it yourself or buy a ready-made refractory composition intended for laying stoves. It is a dry mixture, which is diluted with water to a certain consistency in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. It includes components that ensure the reliability of the masonry when exposed to high temperatures.
If you follow the traditional path and mix the solution yourself, you can use a simple and cheap clay solution with the addition of sand. This mortar is usually used for laying brick ovens. The process of preparing the mixture is as follows:
- the clay is soaked in water and then rubbed through a sieve to prevent foreign particles and debris from getting into the solution;
- sift the sand;
- Combine the components, mixing thoroughly.
The solution must be plastic. Sometimes 5-10% cement is added to the sand-clay mixture. For furnace work, cement-lime, clay-chamotte or cement-chamotte mortars are also used.
Performance characteristics, pros and cons
The product has 3 structural parts (from bottom to top):
- Blower, chamber for loading fuel (firewood, wood briquettes).
- Container for laying out stones with a lid. The lid has a hole for steam to escape.
- Tank for heating water.
Among the advantages of metal devices:
- fire safety;
- long service life;
- compact dimensions;
- light weight compared to a heater;
- no carbon monoxide is produced.
Among the disadvantages, users highlight rapid cooling, so the stove will have to be constantly kept burning.
To solve this problem, manufacturers have created two types of stoves:
Hot. Suitable for occasional use. The mechanism quickly heats up to 100 degrees
The room warms up at an accelerated rate. When choosing, it is important to pay attention to the thickness, quality of the metal and seams. Thin sheet steel at this heating temperature will begin to deform.
Cold Used in buildings where it is necessary to provide constant heating
The metal heats up gradually and over a long period of time, so the risk of burns is minimal. The temperature in the oven is adjustable. The maximum mark is 50 degrees. There are several chambers for combustion of fuel. Thickened steel sheets should be used as raw materials for manufacturing, and the firebox should be made of cast iron.
To correctly calculate the consumption of stones, take into account the area of the steam room and the presence of thermal insulation. Average consumption is 20–40 kg per 1 cubic meter
m of premises. The more stones there are, the easier it is to generate steam.
As for the volume of the firebox, it is made about half as large as a similar one in a heater.
Purpose
The portal is a U-shaped structure made of decorative materials, which is designed to frame the stove.
The best option would be to make a portal out of brick. Portals for furnace equipment in a bathhouse are classified depending on various factors. By form:
- arched structures;
- rectangular or square portals.
- Brick, natural or artificial stone. Most often, these materials are used for decorative framing. They are suitable for lovers of the classics. They look impressive in baths made of wood. The best option is red brick or clinker. Often the metal elements of stoves are decorated using artificial or natural stone.
- Tree. Since this material is flammable, it cannot be used as a base for a portal. Wood is suitable only for decorative purposes. At the same time, it must be impregnated with a protective composition against fire. Ceramic tile. A finishing material, the appearance of which is chosen depending on the wishes of the owner. Experienced builders do not recommend using large tiles.
- Drywall, metal. Sometimes the decorative design of furnace equipment is made from these materials. It is important to choose drywall that is resistant to high temperatures. The frame is made of metal.
Arranging the area around the stove in the bathhouse
During combustion, the stove sometimes heats up to 400 C. The heat is distributed throughout the room, and primarily affects the walls located next to the structure. To protect a nearby wooden wall from overheating, they construct protective screens or cover it with non-combustible materials.
The need for protective installations when installing a heating unit in a wooden bathhouse arises primarily if the distance from the walls to the side surface of a brick stove is less than 32 cm, and a metal stove is 1 m.
The following thermal insulation methods are used:
- Installation of protective steel or cast iron screens purchased in the store. The product is equipped with special holes for mounting to the wall, so it is not difficult to use. The structure will reduce the temperature by 80-100 C. It is installed around the stove, at a distance of 1-5 cm from the side walls.
- Construction of a brick screen. It can cover all side surfaces of the structure or be located only between the potential flammable surface and the heat source. The masonry is made from solid bricks on clay or cement. The laying thickness is at least 60 cm (a quarter of a brick); if the owner does not experience a shortage of material, they make a laying of 120 cm (half a brick). The screen is raised above the stove by 20 cm. The distance from the heat source to the screen is maintained at 5-15 cm. The same distance is acceptable from the masonry to the wall.
- Reflective trims. Installed in combination with thermal insulation materials (basalt wool or cardboard, asbestos cardboard, mineralite). First, thermal insulation is attached to the wall, and a stainless steel sheet is placed on top of it. In order for the reflection of thermal rays to be ideal, the metal sheet must have a mirror surface. Fastening is carried out on ceramic bushings. They do not heat up and provide ventilation between the wall and the insulation.
The listed methods will protect the wall located nearby from the heat generated by the stove installed both in the steam room of a wooden bathhouse and in the dressing room.
Construction of a protective screen
Sauna stoves with remote fireboxes are iron structures that become very hot during operation. Therefore, care should be taken to comply with fire safety regulations. The metal stove must be located at a distance of at least 100 cm from wooden walls. But a protective screen will reduce it to 25 cm. The surfaces that are directly adjacent to the heating device heat up the most.
A stainless steel screen for a sauna stove, at least 4 mm thick, significantly reduces the temperature and reduces the intensity of infrared rays. After all, it is IR radiation that reaches wooden surfaces that can cause them to catch fire. A protective screen for a stove in a steam room with a mirror surface best reflects heat rays and directs the heat, already soft and safe for human perception, back into the steam room.
If there is more than 1 m from the stove to the combustible surfaces of the bathhouse, then there is no need to install screens. The infrared stream will simply dissipate. It is not recommended to place a heat-resistant screen for a sauna stove tightly against the wall, since the metal can accumulate heat. A heat insulator must be installed between the wall and the metal barrier
In this case, a “pie” is created:
- Bath wall.
- The gap for ventilation is at least 3 cm (formed using ceramic bushings that do not heat up).
- Thermal insulation material in the form of asbestos cardboard, basalt wool, etc.
- A metal sheet.
The distance from the stove to the igniting wall with such a “pie” can be reduced to 15 cm. The metal shield is positioned so that it does not reach the floor by several centimeters. This measure is necessary for better air exchange (air masses blowing on the sheet will carry away most of the heat). Don't forget to protect the ceiling above the stove as well. The heat-resistant screen here should be 1/3 larger than the size of the heating device.
An original solution in the interior of the steam room will be heat-resistant cladding of the surfaces adjacent to the stove. It will act as a protective screen. For these purposes use:
- clinker tiles;
- porcelain stoneware;
- Soapstone chlorite
They have high strength and heat resistance. Any stone used to cover surfaces is part of the protective structure. Therefore, the tiles must be attached to a fire-resistant material (in the form of mineralite, cement-fiber board, fiberglass, etc.), which, in turn, is laid on the wall of the bathhouse with a gap of 2-3 cm for ventilation.
Combined versions of furnace screens are widely used. A protective fence made of brick is installed near the heating device, maintaining a gap of 5–15 cm to the walls of the unit. Placing the screen close to the stove is strictly prohibited: air exchange is disrupted and the masonry is destroyed. It is also necessary to remember that when constructing brickwork, air vents of 6 x 7 cm should be left below, every 3 cm. Sometimes they are equipped with doors to regulate the heating of the steam room.
The height of the brickwork must not be lower than the level of the top of the firebox. To protect such a screen from deformation as a result of expansion of the walls of a metal furnace during operation, a backfill of fine river sand is used between the brick and the heating device. The heat-resistant screen for the furnace is laid in half a brick, since a brick-thick fence will take a long time to warm up. The bricks are laid offset, with each seam covered with a brick from the top row. For strength, reinforcing mesh can be laid across the row.
Do not forget to check the verticality of the corners with a plumb line, and the horizontality of the brick rows with a building level. Errors will ruin the entire structure. After completion of the portal construction, the first firing of the sauna stove is carried out no less than 24 hours later.
We make a long-burning stove with our own hands
The first step is to decide what the stove body will be made of. It is advisable to choose thick metal so that it does not burn out longer. Most often, such a potbelly stove is made from a gas cylinder with a volume of 50 liters. You can use a large-diameter thick-walled pipe or a 200-liter steel barrel, but its walls are thinner.
You will also need
:
- steel pipes;
- metal profile;
- tool for cutting metal (grinder, gas cutter, etc.);
- welding machine with electrodes;
- Sheet steel.
Let's take a closer look at how to make a potbelly stove with your own hands. It is first recommended to sketch out a design diagram and determine the dimensions of the elements.
Frame
. When making a body from a gas cylinder, it is necessary to carefully cut off the upper part (cut line 1 cm below the weld). If desired, the body can be extended by welding the cut-off part of another cylinder. The top part with the lid is also cut off from the barrel. And if a pipe is chosen for the body, a round or square bottom made of thick sheet metal should be welded to it.
Housing options
Lid. In the cut off top of the gas cylinder or in the lid of the barrel, a hole should be cut in the center, corresponding in size to the pipe from which the piston will be made
The lid is scalded with a steel strip - it is important that it fits tightly onto the body. For a pipe body, the lid will have to be specially made from sheet metal. Chimney pipe
On the side of the stove, a couple of centimeters below the lid, a hole is cut and the chimney pipe is welded
Chimney pipe. On the side of the stove, a couple of centimeters below the lid, a hole is cut and the chimney pipe is welded
It is important that the removable chimney elbow fits tightly, without gap
Chimney. The lower, horizontal section of the chimney should be longer than the diameter of the stove. The chimney pipe can be made broken to increase the surface area that transfers heat to the room
It is important that there are no angles less than 45°. A pipe with a diameter of 10-15 cm is suitable for installing a chimney.
Piston
. The length of the air duct must exceed the height of the housing by 100-150 mm. It is necessary to weld a steel circle with a hole in the center to its lower part and equip it with five to six blades on the lower side (arranged in a circle, with rays from the center).
The blades can be
:
- pieces of steel angle;
- U-shaped sections;
- wave-curved strips of metal (welded edgewise).
In the middle, a small steel circle with a hole in the center is welded onto the blade. If the platform with the blades is made of steel less than 6 mm thick, it will deform over time due to overheating. To prevent this from happening, stiffening ribs are welded on top - a triangle made up of angle segments. Attach a steel plate to the upper section of the pipe with a bolt to adjust the combustion intensity.
Assembly
. Install a top-burning stove, check the tightness of the chimney connection. Insert the piston into the stove, put on and close the lid. Make sure that the cap fits tightly and that the gap between the piston and the hole in the cap is minimal.
Commissioning
. Homemade long-burning potbelly stoves can be placed on an earthen or concrete floor. If the floor in the room is wooden, lay out a brick platform using stove mortar and cover it with a steel sheet. Instead of brick, you can lay a sheet of refractory material and also cover it with sheet metal. It is advisable to line the walls next to a self-made stove with bricks, which will accumulate heat and transfer it to the room.
Firewood is placed into the installed stove, filling the firebox approximately 2/3 or a little more. Place paper on top and set it on fire. After making sure that the firewood is occupied, you can install the piston and put on the lid. The next addition of firewood is possible only after all the fuel has burned out and the stove has cooled down.
Conclusion
“Bubafonya” is not the most effective long-lasting homemade stove. Craftsmen are developing various versions of a wood-burning “rocket” stove, but its manufacture requires precise calculations, hand-made drawings and good skills in working with various tools.
“Bubafonya” can also be modernized, for example, by installing a device that simplifies the unloading of ash.
Video on the topic
:
Choosing stove bricks: suitable types, application, rejection
05/01/2016 14161 Pechnik (Moscow)
Content:
1. Worker or stove?
2. What kind of bricks are used in the kiln? 3. Bricks in the kiln 4. Rejection and selection 5. Finishing the kiln 6. To summarize: what to choose from? A brick oven is expensive due to its positive impact on the human condition. During the winter cold or cool off-season, you don’t have to worry about optimal temperature and humidity levels, and the microclimate of your home is characterized as favorable. A high-quality stove can only be built from good material, the main one of which is brick. If you are not careful when choosing a brick, the effect may subsequently be the opposite. A competently selected assortment of bricks for fireplaces directly influences its subsequent cost-effectiveness of use. Most of the heat from a stove built randomly from materials, without placing them in a specific place, will simply evaporate into the atmosphere, and this will happen when the heating device is lit. Thus, when laying stoves and fireplaces, it is impossible to use the same type of material; the bricks must first be disassembled and a thorough inspection must be carried out.
Attention! The cost-effectiveness of brick fireplaces is especially important for the owner, since the performance of the structure depends on the type of material used and the type of construction.
A fireplace is another popular type of heating device, and today it is considered a guarantee of comfort and a symbol of the security of its owner. But this hearth should not be taken only as a stylish piece of furniture; it must be built with all responsibility, because later it will be used as a heating object. First you need to decide on the type of brick for laying out the fuel part; if you do this correctly, the fireplace will be an economical and highly productive device.
Among other things, using a special figured brick, you can get an elegant and impressive object without the use of any expensive finishing. Note that by overpaying for decorative material, you save on expensive finishing. By installing such a fireplace in your home, you can style the room much more effectively than, for example, a bio-fireplace equipped with fire-resistant glass.
Thus, let's take a closer look at such an important material as brick, consider the types and varieties, how the material can be sorted and rejected, as well as which brick is suitable for decorating stoves and fireplaces.
Worker or furnace
Of course, it is easier to purchase stove bricks sold in specialized stores, made from selected raw materials.
However, there may be a problem here. In order to improve the grade of the material, manufacturers use additives (additives), which subsequently do not allow the furnace to “breathe”. In addition, there is the cost of the material. Bricks purchased in stores will cost you much more than kiln bricks. That is why ceramic brick is most often used to lay out hearths. Rejection options can be very different; the main thing is to determine them from photos of samples and by examining the entire batch.
Regarding the discrepancy between the standard size, which is also called a “module”, of heat-resistant and ceramic bricks. Modern refractories are produced in different sizes, and determining their quality is much easier than can be done with ordinary bricks.
What bricks are used in the kiln?
The hearth mass is made, as a rule, from traditional ceramic bricks - working and facing.
The material should have even, smooth spoons and pokes. Based on this, this or that masonry is given a name, that is, depending on which side faces outward. If the spoon is facing outwards, it is a spoon laying; if it is a poke, it is a poked laying. To lay out the stove, bedding is not used, which is considered fragile and is used (but only in rare cases) for lining round stoves. For laying the stove, solid single bricks are used, in which there are no internal voids. All material must correspond to the module, but the modules can be different, so it is not recommended to use one module for the same fireplace; the masonry may turn out to be short-lived and the stove will simply fall apart. It is possible to lay out a firebox from one module, because it still has to be made as a block built into the body of the hearth with thermal expansion joints.
Which brick is better to refuse?
Unfired raw brick, as well as silicate and slip-cast materials cast by a special method, are absolutely not suitable for the construction of stoves and fireplaces. Raw brick has increased hygroscopicity, and a fireplace made from it will become limp even in a dry room. Silicate is considered low heat resistant, which entails rapid thermal conductivity. The cast one does not fit well, since the solution in it does not sinter, but dries out, which can turn the oven into a pile of rubble with frequent mechanical shocks. Hollow bricks are also subject to mechanical destruction.
Red clay brick must be made in a special way, only then can it be used to build a stove. There are two ways to perform the material. The first is plastic molding, and the second is semi-dry pressing.
First way:
Before firing begins, the molding mass should be passed through a profiled die, resulting in a layer of the required shape. After this, the layer is cut into pieces of the required size, adhering to the module.
Second way:
a pre-prepared molding mass, to which a small amount of water is added, is placed in a mold, then pressed, the water is squeezed out, and the material is fired. Firing is carried out for eight to fifteen hours at a temperature of nine hundred to one thousand one hundred and fifty degrees. The second option is considered the most perfect, since the material is of the required size and its surface is smooth.
According to experts, only the highest quality ceramic bricks and only plastic molding are used to lay the hearth mass. Follow this rule, because we are building a stove to last for years, and it can serve not only you, but also your children. And yet, why plastic molding? The answer is simple, water imparts plasticity to the molding mass and participates in the chemical reactions that occur during the initial combustion of the hearth. Pressed bricks have many shapes, so they do not withstand thermal loads well and do not “breathe” well.
Today, some domestic and foreign manufacturers offer an interesting version of brick with pimples (it is shown in the picture). It seems like a good option - the pimples increase the adhesion of the bricks to the mortar and, as a result, the durability of the entire heating device. But! Such a brick can only be obtained by pressing, so later, when using such a stove, a problem may arise with periodic heating of the hearth - the material may simply burst in the center. So, be careful! Choose the material wisely, but if you don’t have enough such knowledge, turn to professionals.
Solutions.
It's no secret that the main stove mortar is clay mortar. A cement-based solution can be used to line the fireplace. It can also be used for laying out the fuel part, but as the basis of heat-resistant concrete. It is also used if aluminous cement of the GC-40 or GC-50 grade is not suitable for external work. As a filler for the firebox, fireclay fillers ZShA, ZShB are used, as well as the fireclay itself.
Fire bricks
Refractory (heat-resistant) bricks are produced by firing under high temperatures or by pressing. When laying out furnaces, fireclay or quartz bricks are most often used. More often, of course, fireclay, since quartz has a small coefficient of thermal expansion. Quartz brick is made on the basis of quartz sand, which allows it to be used in places of contact with metal elements, such as beams and pallets.
Quartz brick is afraid of pairing with substances that have an alkaline reaction, so it is dangerous to use it in fireplaces.
There is only one single case in which the material can be used, but we will talk about it further. Fireclay brick is considered the best furnace refractory. The method of connecting it to ceramic material represents a fairly popular unit and is five to six millimeters. If the material is properly prepared and laid with high quality, it will serve you faithfully for many years. Fireclay bricks can be of different colors, depending on the type of clay used. The best option is straw-yellow bricks.
Fireclay and quartz bricks are very similar to each other; they can be distinguished by small dark inclusions that are present in the quartz material.
Brick size and shape
The parameters of a traditional working solid red brick are twenty-five by twelve by six and a half centimeters; this is a building module. Provided that you will build a fireplace from this material, the fireclay brick used for the fuel chamber must also be appropriate. Regarding the building module, fireclay bricks are produced under the brand Ш-8.
Before building a hearth, a project is carried out. In this case, the project begins to be done from the firebox. Today's variety of materials, and a huge variety of special shaped bricks are produced by industry, allows this to be done without much difficulty. The parameters correspond to the furnace module, which has been used since ancient times and is twenty-three by twelve and a half by six and a half centimeters. Therefore, these will be the default material sizes for most heating appliances.
Sh-8 brand brick is also produced in a furnace module, so when purchasing, you should check the dimensions of the material. In addition to everything else, they produce narrowed and narrowed bricks of reduced thickness, the dimensions of which are two hundred thirty by one hundred fourteen by sixty-five millimeters and two hundred thirty by one hundred fourteen by forty millimeters. Using tapered bricks, you can design a firebox made from working bricks. This is not easy to do, but the firebox will give off heat as efficiently as possible later.
Shaped bricks
. Wedge-shaped bricks and wedge bricks require special attention. They can be rib or end. The rib elements are presented in the form of an isosceles trapezoid. The dimensions of the bases of the trapezoid in the brick type mark are written using a fraction: 230x114x65/55 mm. The most popular sizes of rib wedge bricks are the following numbers: 230x125x65/55, 230x125x65/45 and 230x114x65/55 mm.
End-type wedges are usually used for laying the locks and heels of semicircular arches, as can be seen in the figure. When constructing fireplaces, such bricks are produced as shaped decorative bricks (in the picture they are shown on the left at the very beginning). Since stove arches are most often shallow, they can be built from ordinary bricks with varying seam widths. But at the same time, the thrust bearings on the horizontal masonry should be cut off.
Box, three-center and semi-elliptical arches are built somewhat differently. To make the heels, ribbed wedge-shaped bricks are used here. If you do not comply with this requirement, the arch may not withstand it and fall apart, which will render the stove unusable. In this case, rib wedges are used (size - 230x125x65/45 millimeters) with undercuts, they are also solid, and 230x125x65/55 millimeters.
Bricks for lining furnaces
. The requirements for it are not as strict as for the material from which the fuel chamber and the hearth array are laid out. Often second grade brick can be used for cladding. Of course, you need to sort bricks not according to external features, but according to technical characteristics.
Just like working bricks, the facing material used for laying hearths must be produced by plastic molding. They can be seen in the picture on the left - the material is smooth and beautiful. On the right, the bricks are pressed or slip; they do not adhere well to the mortar and do not tolerate temperature changes well.
Clinker brick
made from clinker - a mass based on special clay. Clinker is fired at elevated temperatures (from one thousand three hundred to one thousand five hundred degrees Celsius). By and large, it's just a badly burned brick. According to its external characteristics, it represents a dark-colored element, and frozen smudges are noticeable on the spoons.
Clinker bricks can withstand heating up to one thousand two hundred degrees Celsius and are distinguished by their high strength and thermal conductivity. Since solid brick has almost no pores, it has good frost resistance, does not react to aggressive substances and fits well with red ceramic bricks. Due to its high cost, it is rarely used in the construction of hearths.
Brand of brick, what should it be?
The brick marking represents a letter with a number. The numbers indicate the compression force (in kilograms per square centimeter). Typically, a standard kiln uses M150 brick. if the stove is two-story, then the brand is M200 - M250. The highest grade of brick made from natural raw materials is M300, then the question arises, where does the material of grade M350 - M500 come from? It's simple, it's a matter of synthetic additives. However, if such additives are possible during the construction of buildings, then for the construction of fireplaces they must be excluded.
It is worth noting that grades M75 and M100 are not recommended even for the construction of small country stoves. Why? To produce the material, poor raw materials are used, so the brick does not tolerate temperature shocks well.
The marking of bricks is also related to their size. For the construction of a fuel chamber, the cheapest option is most often used, such as Ш5, Ш8, ША5 and ША8. ША8 and ША5 – lightweight lightweight material. When constructing a firebox, this difference does not matter. Typically, Ш22 – Ш45 are used for combustion vaults. in this case, the first numbers indicate the type of wedge: either rib or end.
Brick in the oven
We will look further at how to cull bricks unsuitable for construction and select those suitable for laying.
Well, now we have looked at what constitutes first, second and third grade material. It is worth noting that the division into varieties is absolutely arbitrary; it would be more correct to call them categories. A quality brick is considered to be one that is laid with skill in a place suitable in terms of parameters and characteristics. Let's turn our attention to the stove from a material point of view. In the figure we can observe the foundation (1), firebox (2), smoke circulation (3), cladding (4), chimney (5).
The foundation distributes the total mechanical load of the entire heating device, and therefore must be strong and durable. however, this is not all - the base must be laid out in such a way that no hearth becomes damp over time. Thus, the foundation must have high moisture and vapor resistance. Since our winters are cold, the foundation below can be cooled to sub-zero temperatures, so it must also be frost-resistant. It follows from this that for laying the foundation you need to take only the most selected material. It must be clinker or third grade brick. How? let's list:
- The cheapest brick is considered to be the third grade.
- when building a tall Dutch oven, it is more rational to use first-grade brick, because all grades come out when sorting the same pallets.
- in areas with harsh climates, it is recommended to use clinker bricks, which are able to support any weight.
The temperature mark in the fuel chamber area can reach one hundred thousand degrees Celsius, this is the limit for ceramic bricks, and at one and a half thousand the material begins to melt. Note that in a mechanical load panel, the firebox does not experience great impacts, but must actively receive heat and fully accumulate it, transferring it further to the hearth array. Thus, the fuel chamber is lined with fireclay material, the thermal conductivity of which is better than that of the working one.
Let us separately make a reservation that fireplaces with intense thermal conditions should be made of refractory ceramic bricks.
Smoke tooth
An interesting name for an important element of a stove or fireplace, which is used to eliminate smoke in a heated room. The requirements for a smoke tooth are quite high: it must be durable, tightly connected to the body of the stove, and most importantly, the smoke tooth must reflect heat rays well. This is especially important for a fireplace; the fireplace releases heat into the room by convection, so the inclined surface of the tooth represents a kind of thermal mirror.
Thus, the chimney tooth represents the only place that can be laid with quartz bricks. If earlier it was difficult to do this, since there was nothing to cut the material with, today the brick can simply be cut with a grinder and a diamond wheel.
Smoke circulation does not have close contact with the flame, but this does not mean that the temperature there is low; sometimes the temperature reaches four hundred to eight hundred degrees Celsius. Flue gases usually burn out in smoke ducts, and therefore are characterized as chemically active. Among other things, heat is also accumulated here so that it is enough until the next heating, so this part is made of first-grade brick.
Attention!
Indicators such as thermal conductivity and heat capacity of brick directly depend on the density of the material. The first grade is considered the highest quality brick, therefore it is recommended for the most critical areas of the stove or fireplace.
The significance of such a part of the hearths as cladding is of great importance, although at first glance it seems that the finishing plays a purely decorative role.
Do not mistakenly think that the cladding is used only to ensure that the finish adheres to it. To cite some numbers as an example, the temperature underneath can reach one hundred and twenty to one hundred and forty degrees, and outside – from eighteen to twenty-five degrees. Thus, it would be more expedient to line the stove with second-grade brick; the material has the necessary porosity, which will allow the stove to breathe and fill the scrap with heat. And if you take into account the roughness of the brick, you can guarantee excellent adhesion to any mortar. According to experts, a pipe is considered to be some part of the chimney located above the view. In this place, the temperature can vary from minus forty to plus four hundred degrees, and humidity - from ten to one hundred percent. This area may be subject to precipitation and gusts of wind. But, be that as it may, the pipe must be heated in a variety of climatic conditions; if this requirement is not met, a slow increase in thrust will occur and excessive fuel consumption will occur, as well as sedimentation of solid combustion products. Thus,
- if normal conditions for using the fireplace are expected, first grade brick should be used.
- You can also use old stove bricks, called “mezhigorka” or small bricks, this is considered the best option. Let's make a reservation that old brick should only be laid from the inside of the fireplace, since dark spots can show through the finish.
- in areas with harsh winters, the masonry should consist of two layers. The inner layer is clinker brick and the outer layer is made of first grade hollow brick. Note that this is the only case where hollow brick can be used.
Bricks for sauna stoves
The specifics of the functioning of a sauna stove are known and described in many literary sources. In literary terms, the breathing of the hearth must be precise and sharp, so you need to start digging bricks, guided by the following characteristics:
- Fireclay and quartz bricks cannot be used for laying sauna stoves, since according to the technical specifications their use and storage is unacceptable at a relative air humidity of more than sixty percent.
- The fuel chamber is usually lined with ceramic refractory material.
- the other part of the sauna hearth is made entirely of first-class brick.
- It is recommended to build a small stove from clinker bricks; as a result, the stove will be almost equivalent to a cast iron structure, which means high temperature and rapid heat transfer.
Choosing bricks for a Russian stove
When choosing a material for building a Russian stove, the following features should be taken into account:
- absolutely all orders of Russian stoves are adjusted to the main stove module: twenty-three by twelve and a half by six and a half centimeters.
- the entire hearth is built from first-class ceramic bricks.
- the lower part of the furnace (under) is built from refractory ceramic bricks, this can be a hearth brick or its close analogues.
What does the name "hearth brick" mean?
the hearths of some variants of the hearth are laid out of it, in this case, the Dutch oven and the Russian oven. Among other things, pallets with bricks of this type are installed under the kiln or on a special lower shelf of the rack. Thus, the brick does not overheat during firing, which allows it to be of high quality. In specialized stores, bricks are supplied exclusively separately. Analogs of this material include Gzhel refractory brick, as well as Borovichi material.
Rejection and selection
Bricks rejected for the following characteristics are considered unsuitable for heating structures:
- With dimensions that do not correspond to the module.
- With visible cracks, burrs and burrs from cutting, as well as with foreign inclusions.
- Bricks that are heavily burned are dark in color, bloated, warped, with spots appearing on the edges.
- This group also includes bricks that have traces of gases in their solids. If the solid of the element contains traces of gas emissions, which usually appear during firing, they have the appearance of rounded shells (also called “cavities”) with a single-colored inner surface.
Separately! For fireclay bricks, you can have up to four shells per element, but there should not be more than one per face.
Brick varieties
Ceramic bricks are sorted as follows (see image):
First grade
bricks (on the left in the figure) - a uniformly annealed element with optimal density, number and pore size. The surface of such bricks is smooth, and the color is beautiful and bright, saturated, from pure red to slightly yellowish. When you tap the material, you get a beautiful, even, metallic sound. A fifty-gram hammer is used for tapping. The cuts are without visible burrs, the edges of the brick do not crumble, they are smooth and straight. Often, the presence of iridescent spots can be noted on the edges, or a continuous film is noted.
Second grade
brick (shown in the center) represents slightly unburnt material. Such a characteristic as frost resistance is weak, but the porosity is slightly increased, the heat capacity of the second grade brick is slightly less than that of the first grade elements. The characteristic features of bricks are their large number per ton, almost up to four hundred and twenty pieces versus three hundred twenty to three hundred and forty pieces of second-grade bricks. If you knock on the bricks with a hammer, the sound is clear, but a little dull. When cutting, small nicks and chipping of the ribs are formed. There is no rainbow film; if there is one, it is due to the plasticizers used.
Third grade
brick (image in the figure on the right) - the material is moderately burned. It has a high density, about two hundred and ninety pieces per ton. It is not recommended for foundation construction, as it has low frost resistance and good thermal conductivity. Externally, the color is deep dark to brown. The brick begins to ring when tapped and often has crumbled ribs. On sale it is called “iron ore”.
Rules for rejecting fireclay:
A reliable way to reject fireclay bricks is simple; just drop them from a height of about one meter onto the stone floor. With such a fall, high-quality material splits into large elements, and bad ones into small parts. The method is quite reliable, so it is often used in production, testing several pieces from different batches of material. But not all companies will allow you to hit bricks, so you can use another method:
- We run our fingers across the ribs, there are no crumbs or dust left on the hand, we check further.
- tapping: the sound is even, long-lasting, this is the first grade, which is suitable for laying out fuel chambers, as well as furnaces operating under intense conditions (bell-type furnaces, Kuznetsov furnaces).
- if the sound is clear, short, abrupt, you have a second-grade brick, also suitable for other fireboxes.
- but the dangerous dull sound of a brick - this is a marriage.
Furnace finishing
Provided that the stove plays an independent role and is used in everyday life not only for heating, but also as part of the interior design of the room, then it is more advisable to use plastic-molded facing bricks for its decoration. Almost always this is a second-grade material, which is more suitable than any other for lining a heating device. The finishing of the stove with bricks is carried out during the laying of the unit, thus, it is possible to achieve two goals at once: the stove will subsequently breathe and release the required amount of heat into the room, the fireplace will acquire a beautiful aesthetic appearance, and the necessary neat bandaging of the seams will also be carried out.
When covering an old fireplace, it is necessary to evaluate the condition of the old seams. If they dry out, the problem should be corrected to prevent the material from peeling off later. Professionals first line the stove with unglazed tiles, and only after that bricks are laid on the mortar. Nowadays it’s much simpler - the mortar for laying the cladding is mixed with aluminous cement.
To summarize: what to choose from?
As a rule, there are practically no offers from manufacturers of bricks of the second or third grade, and they do not sort it, since it is believed that the third grade is suitable for construction.
This results in the presence of different materials in one pallet. When you decide to build a stove, at the initial planning stage, immediately calculate how many bricks will be needed for your hearth. Since more than one pallet will be required for the fireplace, decide with the manufacturer, first selecting the material visually based on pictures and prices, and after that, in the warehouse, inviting a knowledgeable craftsman, buy bricks using the selection and tapping method.
Stock up on material for future use, as situations are different, and a small amount of additional bricks will not hurt.
Video to watch
How to secure a bathhouse
In order to make the walls of the steam room fireproof, special cladding materials are used.
They not only reduce the intensity of the impact of infrared rays on the structure of the building, but also prevent fire.
Without fail, the height of the casing must be at least 120 centimeters above the surface of the heating device.
There should also be a small gap between the sheathing and the wall surface, usually no more than three centimeters.
Also, do not forget about the technical gaps that should be located at the top and bottom of the skin; they will ensure uninterrupted air convection.
Equipment classification
Before you build a Swedish stove or any other structure, you need to remember that any heating equipment consists of a portal, which serves as protection for the firebox and its decoration. Most often this element is assembled from brick. Can be lined with any heat-resistant materials. To place logs and burn them, the structure is equipped with a firebox or combustion compartment. To prevent smoke from immediately escaping into the street and creating heat, the stove is supplemented with a smoke collector. To remove smoke and combustion products, wood-burning stoves are equipped with a chimney.
An open firebox design means there is no door
In this case, special attention must be paid to the internal walls of the combustion chamber, making them as thick, durable and airtight as possible. For laying the walls, only fireclay bricks and an adhesive composition based on fireclay clay are used.
Also, the fireplace insert can be of a closed type.
Fire safety requirements
When installing any sauna stove, it is necessary to strictly comply with fire safety requirements, since the walls of the device heat up to fairly high temperatures during its operation. In order to ensure maximum safety and not have problems with regulatory organizations, it is recommended to install the stove in accordance with the provisions prescribed in SNiP 41-01-2003 (Chapter 6.6).
- The first thing that needs to be done is to equip a reliable foundation for the main structure of the stove, which will be adjacent to the wall dividing the room. The foundation should be covered with heat-resistant material and then with metal sheet. Asbestos sheets were previously used as heat-resistant insulation. Today on sale you can find panels of pressed mineral wool, which is less dangerous from an environmental point of view, sheets of foam glass or EZHKAKH (heat-resistant structural mica plastic).
- It is also necessary to provide a metal flooring in front of the combustion door, which will prevent the wooden floor from catching fire and simplify debris removal. The size of the pre-furnace sheet must be at least 400×800 mm.
- If the partition between the steam room and the dressing room is wooden, then the opening through which the fuel channel will pass must be separated from the wood by brick or stone masonry. The distance between the stove and wooden walls should be 400÷450 mm.
In the version shown, the owner chose to fill the opening with bricks
- Provided that an opening is installed along the end part of the wall through which the combustion channel will pass, a gasket made of heat-insulating material (mineral basalt wool or cement-fiber sheet) with a thickness of 40÷50 mm, the distance between the part of the wall built from combustible material and the outer wall oven can be reduced to 250 mm. If thicker thermal insulation material is installed, the safe distance can be 125 mm.
- The distance between the ceiling of the bathhouse and the surface of the stove should not be less than 1200 mm.
- The distance from the edge of the combustion door to the nearest door must be at least 1250 mm.
- If you purchased a non-factory-made stove, or the device is independently made from sheet metal, then it is best to cover it with brick. Thus, it is possible to protect the structure of the bathhouse from fire, and people taking water procedures from burns. Factory products, as a rule, are made with double walls, between which thermal insulation material is laid or convection channels pass through.
Chimney
It is important to know how to organize the exhaust gas outlet. Proceed as follows:
- Mark the location of the passageway on the ceiling.
- Saw the ceiling, treat it with fire-retardant impregnation, insert the groove (box with outlets) and secure it in the corners with self-tapping screws, lay 7.5 mm thick basalt insulation.
- A single-wall module, at least one meter deep, or a pipe heat exchanger is first installed on the sauna stove. Next, an adapter from a single-walled to a double-walled pipe, then the use of a sandwich structure is recommended.
- Connect the free end to the adapter, to which, on the other side, connect the first section of the chimney, followed by the second, and so on. Reinforce the joints with metal clamps.
- Protect the outlet pipe with a steel sheet (from the attic side), which is secured to the wooden ceiling using self-tapping screws.
- Cut a hole in the roof and bring out the pipe using a groove with an aluminum element.
- Make sure that the chimney rises 0.5-1.5 m above the roof level and install a cap.
If you purchased a ready-made unit, you must follow the instructions. On the website feflues.ru you can find high-quality factory-made polyurethane foam, presented in various configurations: “empty” or with additional insulation. In the first case, it is necessary to cover the base of the unit (stainless steel sheet) with basalt cardboard from the inside, and install the polyurethane foam itself in a box protected by mineralite sheets. We leave the distance between the pipe and the sheet empty. But the assembly itself must be covered with 5-7 cm of kaolin wool from the attic side, no more is needed to avoid overheating of the pipe.
Portal for the stove in the bathhouse: what are they?
The material that is suitable for decorating the portal must be fireproof, it can be:
- stone;
- ceramic tile;
- tiles;
- ordinary brick.
And a little more about each.
Brick
It can be anything, because high temperatures are extinguished by the wall, most likely it will be finishing or even clinker tiles imitating brick. The main thing is that the color and texture (smooth or torn) match. In stores you can also purchase decorative parts made from the same brick.
A natural stone
In the relaxation room, it is permissible to use not only volcanic or metamorphic rocks, but also sedimentary rocks (which are not suitable inside the steam room) for finishing the portal. The latter include:
But if the structure of the rock is porous, it should not be laid around the door, because the soot will simply eat into the stone and you will not get rid of it. So such material is only suitable for elements located on the sides or high above the firebox (a shelf, for example).
In addition, you have at your disposal volcanic or metamorphic rocks without pores:
- serpentine (aka serpentinite);
- soapstone;
- granite;
- slate.
Another possible use of stone is to lay not slabs or tiles from it, but untreated pebbles fixed with glue on a vertical surface.
Ceramic tile
The choice is huge, it all depends on the taste of the owner or designer. And if I advise, then only the following:
The advantages of this type of cladding include low maintenance and the fact that ceramic tiles do not absorb soot.
Tiles
This is a special type of tile that has a cavity on the back side.
The tiles are usually richly decorated with relief, which can be hand-painted. There are also smooth tiles, plain or with patterns (not necessarily made by hand). In any case, this type of tile is expensive, but it looks very attractive.
Well, it’s unlikely that we will be able to somehow cover the stylistic diversity available when using all these materials, but you should take into account the design of the bath itself. Of course, someone thought through the stylistic unity, others simply relied on the utility of things and materials
In the first case, it will be easier to choose a suitable design, because the choice is limited by style. In the second case, we advise you to choose a portal design that is also simple and utilitarian, that is, without decorations that do not find “support” in the rest of the environment
Of course, some thought through stylistic unity, others simply relied on the utilitarian nature of things and materials. In the first case, it will be easier to choose a suitable design, because the choice is limited by style. In the second case, we advise you to choose a portal design that is also simple and utilitarian, that is, without decorations that do not find “support” in the rest of the environment.
Preparation of material
Only large cobblestones are suitable for a closed heater
Not all cobblestones are suitable for a bathhouse. The easiest way to find suitable materials is to go to a specialty store, where they will offer a lot of options to choose from. They are significantly different from stones of natural origin, which not only will not bring benefits, but will also harm your health. The main characteristics by which you need to make a choice are:
- Heat resistance is the ability of a material to withstand high temperatures.
- Heat capacity is the ability of cobblestones to retain heat.
- Environmental friendliness. Many materials can release harmful substances when heated.
- Capacity for thermal expansion. The less the stones expand in volume when heated, the better.
The size of the material is very important. It depends on the type of heating device. Small-sized specimens are suitable for electric stoves, but for wood-burning stoves with an open heater, filler of various sizes is suitable - from 6 to 20 cm in diameter.
Types of sauna stoves according to the material from which they are made
Here we have only two options: either this stove, including the fuel core, will be made of brick or metal. The latter is either various steel alloys or cast iron.
Brick
Brick stoves are traditional stoves, if you do not pay attention to the fact that the tradition goes no further than the time of Peter I. They are highly respected by lovers of Russian baths and are considered the most correct
The weight is large, a separate foundation is needed. They are expensive, both in terms of materials and labor costs for the master stove maker (there’s no point in calling a cheap one, it’s better to install it yourself). Therefore, customers who prefer low-cost solutions should choose another option. During operation, constant care and prevention are required - drying, careful ignition, eliminating cracks in the solution, etc. However, they don’t like a brick stove mainly because preparation for the procedures takes 4-5 hours.
Find out more about brick kilns here >>>
Metal steel
The most common ones, because it is easier and more profitable for the manufacturer to make them from steel, and preferably from structural steel, that is, not alloyed, rusty, because this reduces the cost. However, there are those who also use stainless steel in their products (and not only for the body, but also for the firebox), and the thickness is more than 2 mm. But the price rises accordingly. Read our materials - we tried to find out where which metal is used. At the same time, all stoves were equal for us - no self-interest, no negativity towards anyone’s products.
However, users are often interested in practical questions - how to install a newly purchased stove or how to make a brick lining for it. Follow the links or visit our metal stoves section. Those who like to do it themselves can learn how to turn a pipe into a sauna stove.
Metal cast iron
very durable and at the same time fragile stoves
In addition to the strength of cast iron, it is worth mentioning its heat capacity - it is higher than that of steel, but the greater wall thickness than steel also plays an important role here - up to 4 cm in some parts of the structure, and on average 1 cm (versus 0.2 for steel !).
On a note! Cast iron is taken to the bathhouse either by those who like to steam “Russian style”, or by those who want to invest once and for a long time. Well, or those who combine both.
We have selected and described the best cast iron stoves and devoted separate material to those with a closed heater. You can go to the section using this link.
Step-by-step instruction
Forming the base
In order for a brick-lined sauna stove to be strong and reliable, it is important to lay the foundation correctly. The strip foundation is considered the easiest to assemble and install. To equip it, the wooden floor elements in the house are first dismantled, after which a trench is dug, the bottom of which is covered with a sand-crushed stone mixture
Everything is compacted well and watered. The next stage is concreting the foundation. For the strength and reliability of the structure, it is recommended to additionally lay a reinforcing mesh into the foundation before pouring it. The solution is then left to dry. Until the base is completely dry, further work is not recommended.
To equip it, the wooden floor elements in the house are first dismantled, after which a trench is dug, the bottom of which is covered with a sand-crushed stone mixture. Everything is compacted well and watered. The next stage is concreting the foundation. For the strength and reliability of the structure, it is recommended to additionally lay a reinforcing mesh into the foundation before pouring it. The solution is then left to dry. Until the base is completely dry, further work is not recommended.
Preparation
Before constructing the protective apron, it is recommended to soak the lining brick for 12 hours. To do this, the required amount of material is separated, cleaned if necessary and placed in cold water. This event is necessary to ensure that the blocks do not absorb moisture from the solution during the formation of the order.
How to prepare brick mortar?
The installation of a metal furnace will be reliable if a cement-clay mixture is used as a masonry mortar. Both components are taken in equal proportions and diluted with water to obtain a creamy consistency. To mix the solution well and obtain a homogeneous mass, it is recommended to use a construction mixer. After mixing, you need to let the masonry mixture thicken, and then proceed directly to the masonry.
Bricklaying
In order for the apron to be reliable, it is important to correctly calculate the permissible distance between the brick wall and the iron body, because if the gap is small, the masonry will quickly crack and you will have to redo everything all over again. On average, it will take up to 15 orders to form a screen. It is recommended to divide the work into 2 stages: on the first day, form half of the rows, then leave the structure to dry until the morning
Then the rest of the masonry is done, the optimal row thickness is half a brick. The ordering scheme is presented in the table:
It is recommended to divide the work into 2 stages: on the first day, form half of the rows, then leave the structure to dry until the morning. Then the rest of the masonry is done, the optimal row thickness is half a brick. The ordering scheme is presented in the table:
| Row | Description of work |
| 1 | The perimeter is completely laid with bricks, the row is started from the corner, with strict observance of evenness of laying |
| 2 | The wall is built up, reinforcement is carried out, air gaps are formed |
| 3 | Posted as 1st |
| 4—5 | A portal is formed for the firebox door and ash pan, |
| 6—8 | A metal corner is placed above the base of the portal |
| 9 | Can be stacked randomly |
Depending on personal preferences, you can arrange the arrangement with an arch at the level of the stove where the coals are located. This way the smoldering embers will be visible and you can admire them for a long time. You can also complete the arrangement by installing a round pipe in the bathhouse through which the smoke will come out. In none of the selected options, the step-by-step instructions for forming the order do not change.
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First heating
When the brick finish dries, and this lasts on average up to 2 weeks, it is important to put the device into operation correctly. To do this, 2-3 test fires are performed, during which a minimum of firewood is used. This will prevent excessive heating and cracking of the structure.
In this way it will be possible to safely dry wet areas, thanks to which the stove will serve reliably and for a long time.
This will prevent excessive heating and cracking of the structure. In this way, it will be possible to safely dry wet areas, thanks to which the stove will serve reliably and for a long time.
Fire protection system in the partition
To achieve maximum heating efficiency in a bathhouse, it is advisable to place the stove in a partition. In this case, it will heat the partition, and not the outer wall or corner, which is much more rational and profitable, since firewood or gas will be well saved.
The partition in the bathhouse near the stove should be well protected. All the same methods are suitable for this as for the usual placement of the furnace. You can use all the techniques described above (brick, tile, metal) both for the outer wall and for the partition.
A brick partition in a bathhouse near the stove will be the most convenient option. It should be noted that brick partitions are often found in wooden bathhouses. Basically, they are made there for design reasons because of the beautiful facing bricks, but the option with a stove is much more functional.
The result is a highly efficient bathhouse for heating; the partition-stove in it is located in the center of the building and does not lose heat. In this case, the portal around the furnace is made lighter. For its construction, it is appropriate to use the same brick as for the rest of the partition. In this case, you will not need to purchase additional materials. If the design requires it, you can use any other option.
Gate equipment
Another way to combat increased draft, which causes wood to burn out too quickly and not completely, is to install a damper on the chimney.
A damper is a valve that closes the chimney exhaust duct and blocks the draft:
- In the closed position there is practically no draft - almost no air is sucked in through the blower and combustion doors.
- In the fully open position of the gate, the thrust is maximum - this is the kindling mode.
- By partially retracting the damper, you can reduce the draft so that the wood does not burn, but smolders. This way you can steam on one tab longer than usual.
In factory long-burning furnaces, the gate is made rotary. In a summer cottage it is easier to make it movable. To do this, you just need to cut the sheet to size and make a gap in the chimney. You can pull out such a flap by the tongue.
Wall decoration
The composition of such cladding includes metal sheets, as well as a thermal insulation layer of non-combustible insulation. First of all, a layer of thermal insulation is installed, then metal sheets are attached to it, the surface of which is carefully polished.
In this case, it is the heat-insulating layer that allows the cladding to reflect thermal energy, thereby significantly reducing the heating level of the bath floors. Also worth noting is the reflector, which softens the heat coming from the stove, making it more suitable for the human body.
The following can be used as insulation:
- Cardboard tiles for a bathhouse on the wall with a stove, which contain basalt fiber. Excellent material that insulates the bath room both from heat loss and from the penetration of extraneous sounds. Unaffected by excessively high temperatures, does not rot;
- Minerite panels. This material is currently gaining popularity quite quickly due to its non-flammability and resistance to high temperatures;
- Basalt wool. Representative of environmentally friendly materials that are safe for the human body. Non-flammable, resistant to elevated temperatures, but too hygroscopic;
- Cardboard boards containing asbestos. This material has excellent heat-insulating properties and is not susceptible to mechanical stress or the influence of elevated temperatures. Due to asbestos in its composition, it cannot be classified as highly environmentally friendly.
The insulation is attached using ceramic bushings. If the minimum distance from the surface of the casing to the stove is maintained, we recommend installing a double layer of insulation.
Facing cladding
In order to protect the sauna stove without disturbing the overall stylistic component, cladding is often used.
The following materials are considered the most popular for these works:
Terracotta tiles. It is made from clay, which is subsequently fired in a special oven. This material has proven itself to be incredibly wear-resistant, durable, and also resistant to various mechanical influences, including the influence of high temperatures. Terracotta manufacturers produce both matte and glazed options; Tile clinker. It is also made on a clay basis and is distinguished by its wear resistance. It should be noted that in terms of external characteristics it is quite similar to decorative brick; Tile tiles. A highly decorative material, since the surface of the tile is covered with various patterns, designs, and prints; Soapstone chlorite. Environmentally friendly rock. It has a natural shade of gray or green, and is characterized by increased resistance to impacts and other mechanical influences
Soapstone chlorite perfectly tolerates constant exposure to elevated temperatures, while being completely non-hygroscopic, which is so important for a steam room; Porcelain stoneware slabs in the bathhouse near the stove. This material is not susceptible to elevated temperatures, non-flammable, wear-resistant
The undeniable advantage of porcelain stoneware is its textured surface, which exactly imitates the appearance of various precious stones, as well as other finishing materials - brick, wood, masonry.
Important! This cladding is mounted on top of a pre-arranged heat-insulating base. For fastening, solutions are used that are resistant to elevated temperatures. How to cover a stove in a bathhouse with tiles and other materials listed above? The finished cladding will look like this:
How to cover a stove in a bathhouse with tiles and other materials listed above? The finished cladding will look like this:
- Wooden walls;
- Technical gap measuring 3 centimeters;
- Thermal insulating base made of non-combustible materials;
- Material for cladding.
Advantages of mineralite
- Having made the insulation with mineralite, you will forget about replacing them for a long time. They serve well and properly.
- The panels do not burn or ignite. This fiber cement board meets the most stringent fire safety requirements.
- Minerite is considered a universal material. It can be used not only for insulation, but also for decorative finishing.
- Installation of the plates is extremely simple.
- You can do everything yourself without resorting to outside help.
A mineralite slab for a bath, like any other material, in addition to its undeniable advantages, also has disadvantages. And most buyers note only one thing - the unpresentable appearance of some types of such panels. If you choose more decorative specimens, they will cost a little more.
Calculations
In order for the sauna stove portal to be as effective as possible, it is necessary to make the correct calculations and dimensions. Before finishing, you need to mark the location of the portal, and also think about its future shape and the places where certain elements will be attached. So, the order of calculations is as follows:
- determine the most optimal area for laying and marking;
- to the obtained value you need to add 2 more rows of bricks, which will play the role of a base;
- divide the total area by the side area of one brick;
- add 10% to the result.
