The water in the bathhouse boils quickly, what should I do?

How to heat water in a bath?

18 Feb /
admin/
Heaters

Pressure water systems, while creating unique opportunities and countless conveniences, still often cause a lot of trouble. For example, if you rarely use the sauna, the water in the tanks and pipes goes out, and the pipes themselves rust. Standing water in pipes freezes and breaks them in winter, and it is very difficult to fill frozen tanks and pipes in winter. Plumbing systems will be expensive, they require constant repairs, are short-lived, and if they are equipped with electrical equipment (solenoid valves, pumps, heaters), they pose a danger to life, especially if the baths are neglected.

There are several ways to heat water in a bathhouse, the most common of which are: installing a wood or gas water heater and installing an electric heater.

For small volumes of water used, methods of non-pressure water storage (in separate closed or open containers, as well as water conduits: overflow waterfalls and open streams) are convenient (especially in winter). Carrying water in bottles or buckets, as well as transporting liquids in barrels (tanks), is not at all a consequence of a low technical level. This is a very important method of transportation and storage with its own characteristics and rules, amenable to automation, mechanization, and improvement.

If the bathhouse is used only in the warm season, problems with water remaining in the pipes supplying water to it or in the tank can be solved quite simply. The water is drained before frost, and the bathhouse remains dry for the winter. As soon as the temperature rises, it begins to be used: a certain volume is passed through the water supply system to rinse and heat it, and then used as usual. It is a much more difficult task to establish a water supply for a bathhouse in winter, especially if it is used once a week or 2 times a month.

Posts 1 to 15 of 49

#1 Topic from Nikolay 02/22/2016 21:45:23

Topic: Oh, the water in the bathhouse is boiling

What can you think of? What can be done? I can't switch to the register. Quite a low ceiling and the need for a bucket fill for the tank.

#2 Reply from MIKHA666 02/22/2016 22:19:32

Re: Oh, the water in the bathhouse is boiling

In your case, the simplest option would be to increase the tank capacity. You can also read here https://www.forumhouse.ru/threads/51694/page-2

#3 Reply from gusar1973 02/22/2016 23:28:10

Re: Oh, the water in the bathhouse is boiling

or connecting an additional tank to this. In the washing room, for example, hang

#4 Reply from LazyBear 02/22/2016 23:51:36

Re: Oh, the water in the bathhouse is boiling

It seems to me that here or

, or a decrease in heat transfer when heating water. The first thing that comes to mind is to reduce heat transfer. In our case, the less hot iron comes into contact with the water, the longer the water will heat up and, as a result, will not have time to boil. Purely theoretically, what if you just put a couple of bricks on the bottom of the tank so that they fit as tightly as possible to the bottom? They will reduce the volume of water slightly, but they will seriously reduce the surface of intense heat exchange.

#5 Reply from Nikolay 02/23/2016 07:04:19

Re: Oh, the water in the bathhouse is boiling

or connecting an additional tank to this. In the washing room, for example, hang

where else? although there was such a thought. I need to think about this option again, because it turns out to be adjustable!

By the way, we do not have a division into a steam room and a washing room. all in one, so to speak.

They will reduce the volume of water slightly, but they will seriously reduce the surface of intense heat exchange.

interesting about bricks! True, I’ll put them in, but I’m unlikely to be able to get them out of an 80-liter tank without disassembling the system.

Source

I continue my experiments with a tank on a pipe (samovar-type tank), which I recently installed on my stove in the bathhouse.

Last weekend, my family and I went to the bathhouse and for the first time steamed with a stove with a tank on a pipe, and there was something I really didn’t like. It even got a little bad.

My previous experiments showed that a samovar-type tank does not have time to boil within 2 hours of heating. This is subject to working in tandem with a Feringer furnace (not direct flow), but it’s still surprising to me.

So, such a tank does not boil while the bathhouse is being prepared, but when it’s time to go to the bathhouse, it begins to boil and add raw, heavy steam to the steam room! And if the stove continues to fire, the water in the tank continues to boil.

I heated the stove well, the heater inside was well heated, and the cassettes to which I supplied water generally glowed red. That is, the steam from the oven was high quality, but it was very difficult to breathe.

This continued until I extinguished the residual combustion in the stove and the tank stopped boiling. After that, I was able to enjoy the high-quality steam from the stove, although I no longer felt very well.

Source

How to heat water in a bath?

Diagram of heating water using a stove with a samovar-type heat exchanger.

If you need hot water constantly in the summer, and in the winter only when you want to come to the dacha and take a steam bath in the bathhouse, then how to organize hot water supply for the bathhouse and heat the bathhouse?

install a wood-burning heater;
install a large-capacity electric water heater;
install a gas water heater connected either to a centralized gas supply or to a cylinder if there is no gas in the house;
use the system to heat water in the tank through a hot water pipe from a heating stove;
The fourth system should be supplemented with heating elements to heat the water in the tank at a time when the bathhouse is not heated.

All these options are applicable in the summer, and at stable negative temperatures, the water will need to be heated and supplied to the bathhouse right before the firebox and drained from all containers and pipes after using the bathhouse.

How to organize the water supply to the bathhouse?

Water heating diagram when using a stove with a built-in heat exchanger.

Cold water to the bathhouse is most often supplied from the house. To do this, lay a pipe at a depth that is lower than the level of soil freezing in your area, and with a small percentage of slope towards the bathhouse, so that the water flows by gravity. You can fill the water tanks in the bathhouse manually or using a pumping station. The first option is clear: we collect water from the tap into buckets and pour it into the tank. In the second option, so that water does not remain in the pipes, we close the valve in the house for supplying water to the bathhouse. After the water stops flowing from the faucet in the bathhouse, it can be assumed that the water has been drained from the system. In this case, it is good to remember the laws of physics, namely, the topic of communicating vessels, in order to understand what height difference is necessary between the exit in the bathhouse and the entrance of the pipe in the house. It will not be possible to pump out all the water from the supply pipe without a pump, and the main thing here is that the water remaining in the pipes becomes below the freezing level, otherwise it will simply rupture the pipes and the water supply to the bathhouse will cease to function.

Of course, you don’t have to install stationary pipes in the bathhouse, but use a regular hose: after filling all the containers, it is simply disconnected from the water supply and removed.

The drainage of water from the bathhouse is carried out according to the same principles: the outlet pipe into the septic tank must go lower than the freezing line of the soil, and be laid at an angle, due to which the water would drain by gravity.

How to make a shower in a bathhouse and heat the water in it?

If you want to use the shower only in warm weather, you can use this option:

Under the roof there are 2 tanks of 100 liters each, made of stainless steel.
Branches are made from the tanks into a small-volume water mixing container.
A shower outlet is made from the mixing tank.
The hot water tank is connected to the stove with 2 pipes: one pipe is welded to the bottom, the other is welded above the first into the side wall.
When the stove is heated, the water in the hot tank can be heated by convection.

However, an impeccable bath water supply system must include a mandatory pumping station. The simplest design: tank, pump and pressure switch. The tank is divided into 2 parts by a membrane wall: in one there is air, in the other water is pumped into the other. The purpose of the relay is to set the minimum and maximum pressure levels in the system. When the volume of water pumped by the pump into one part of the tank creates the greatest pressure, the pump turns off. When the water is poured out of the tank and the pressure reaches its lowest point, the pump will turn on and pump the next portion of water into the tank. In this way, not only the problem of automatically restoring the water supply in the tank will be solved, but also the problem of creating the required water pressure for normal shower operation.

And by installing a “warm floor” system in the bathhouse, which maintains above-zero temperatures in winter, the need to drain water from containers is eliminated. But it should be noted that if there is a power outage for a long time, your bathhouse will freeze safely.

Heat exchanger for a sauna: why is it needed, how to install and connect to a sauna stove

Having made the right choice of heating equipment, you can steam and wash without purchasing and installing a boiler. A reliable, modern, spacious heat exchanger for a bath will perfectly cope with the role of a heater: it will be able to supply the required volume of hot water to the storage tank. In this article you will learn about the options and operating features of the technical tool that exist today, practical advantages and the most popular models.

What it is

The device is used to heat water in the bath. Its operating principle is based on the physical properties of hot water, expanding and rising upward, while cold water remains below.

Typically the heat exchanger is small in size, so the liquid in it heats up quickly. Two pipes are connected to it - below and above. Thus, hot water through the upper pipe, replaced by cold water from below, rises into the tank, which can be located either in the steam room or in an adjacent room, usually in the sink. In this case, low-temperature water is constantly added to the heating device through the lower pipe without forced supply.

Options for heating water in a bath from a stove

The following models are distinguished:

1. Samovar-type container - installed on the outlet pipe of the chimney. Heating occurs due to the heat of the flue gases escaping into the chimney. A tap for dispensing hot water is connected to the fitting at the bottom of the tank. If you don’t have a washing machine, then this option will be an excellent solution for heating. We recommend paying attention to the following operating conditions:

the use of a samovar-type tank is allowed only with bathhouse stoves;
It is prohibited to operate an empty tank while the stove is operating;
If you want to get a “Finnish sauna”, this option for heating water will not suit you, since if the steam room is heated for a long time, the liquid will begin to boil, which is why heavy steam is formed.

2. A samovar-type heat exchanger (small in size with the ability to connect to a tank), which can be located anywhere. It is convenient because, if available, the tank can be placed in the washing room. One of the obvious advantages over other options is that it quickly heats the water.

Why doesn't the water boil in the sauna and bathhouse? Reasons, description, photo

Why doesn’t the water boil in the sauna and bathhouse? A visit to the sauna or bathhouse is an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasure of water treatments with significant health benefits. And such a pastime can make you think about some things. So, for example, why doesn’t water boil when it’s in a hot heated room? After all, the thermometer in the steam room can reach +100, 120 degrees, especially if you take measurements directly under the ceiling.

Why doesn’t the water in the sauna boil at such temperatures? Everyone knows from school courses that it should boil at 100 degrees.

Facts about water

Even a poor student will say that water boils at 100 degrees Celsius and freezes at zero. Only few people think about the canons of physics, according to which water should boil at minus 80 degrees, and freeze at minus 180 degrees!

This substance is not simple, oh, not simple.

Water is the only substance in the world that, contrary to the laws of nature, is somehow lighter in the solid state than in the liquid state. Now, if you take an iron nail and throw it into a stream of hot iron, the nail will sink. And this is how any substance on our planet will behave (solid is heavier than liquid), except water.

In water, in general, everything is exactly the opposite: tiny pieces of ice and huge icebergs float back and forth and do not sink at all...

In addition, it has already been proven that water has memory and reacts to positive and negative things. Experiments have shown that water charged with positive information, when frozen, produced crystals of amazing beauty. But if the water was charged with aggression, cruelty and other negativity, the crystals turned out shapeless and ugly.

The process of heating water and air

When relaxing near a pond in the hot summer, you can note that the water is almost always cooler than the air. There is a completely natural reason for this. Air is a more rarefied substance, a low-density gas; it quickly heats up and cools quickly during temperature changes that are observed during the change of day and night, and in any other circumstances. Water is a denser substance; it does not heat up as quickly and does not cool down as quickly. It is capable of transferring heat or coolness to the air, forming the famous sea breezes. The oceans shape the planet's climate - coastal areas are not so cold in winter and not so hot in summer precisely due to water, which can both accumulate and release heat. The continental climate is more severe than the coastal one.

What to do

In wall-mounted tanks, water often heats up too quickly and boils, so it is not practical to install such structures on compact steel stoves.

Containers that are too large do not always have time to warm up the water, so they must be replaced with more practical and compact “samovar” type devices.

The water heating tank should be selected depending on the characteristics of the furnace design. Otherwise, insufficient heating or excessive overheating, as well as premature boiling of water, may occur.

Where will the water warm up faster?

If you want to boil water, it is wise to put it on the stove. Here it will warm up the fastest and boil in a matter of minutes. When experimenting and looking for the hottest places in the sauna, a person should keep in mind that they are located directly under the ceiling. Of course, the water will not boil there, but those who love extreme temperatures and prefer to steam in the hottest bath or sauna should occupy the top shelves. Conversely, people who do not like heat or have difficulty withstanding it, have health problems, and do not want to overload the cardiovascular system should occupy lower benches. The closer to the floor, the less high temperatures are felt.

This is natural; the laws of physics easily explain this fact. Warm air rushes upward, it is lighter than cold air, since when heated, all bodies expand, atoms and molecules move away from each other at a greater distance than that of a cooled substance. When cooled, all substances contract. Warm water also usually ends up in the upper layers - not only because here it is heated more by the sun.

Thus, water does not boil in a sauna or steam room even at high air temperatures, since air has lower thermal conductivity and density than water. It can heat up from the air, and quite strongly, but this will take a lot of time. But the water will quickly boil on the stove, and when splashed onto the heater, it will instantly turn into steam. If water could completely take over the temperature from the air and boil at 100 degrees, people would not be able to go to the bathhouse. The hottest place in any steam room is at the top, under the ceiling, where warm air rushes, and the coolest place is at the bottom.

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Water for the heater

I would also like to note that the water for use on the heater must be fresh and not stagnant. This will guarantee that there will be no unpleasant odors in the steam room. Crystal clear water is ideal for a bath ceremony, but now such water is very rare.

Sources of spring water are a real treasure for a Russian bath. This is the purest water, filtered by Mother Nature herself. Ancient Russians called water from such sources “holy”; it treated wounds and skin diseases.

Pure water from a natural spring

It is no secret that the rapid activity of mankind does not have a positive effect on the quality and purity of water. Many bath attendants use purified, filtered water for the bath ceremony or specially defend it.

It is important to regularly wash all containers in which you collect and store water. Over time, plaque and rust appear on sauna barrels and tanks; they are not our allies in the sauna world.

I had a chance to visit a bathhouse where peat forest water was used for washing. I was surprised, but she did not smell of mud and mustiness. Of course, it was far from transparent, and we did not put it on the heater. But I really liked the simple washing with forest water. And how clean the hair was and how the body smelled of the forest!

This is my story about water in the bathhouse, about its power and meaning.

In conclusion, I would like to remind you that to get a charge of vivacity, health and good mood, go to the bathhouse with pure thoughts and good wishes. Whether you like it or not, water will remember everything and better if it is a positive memory...

Water heaters

Modern water heaters can be divided into three groups depending on the type of fuel:

wood;
gas;
electric.

Electrical

There are two types of electric water heaters:

Flow-through devices are compact devices that quickly heat the liquid flowing through them. Can quickly dispense hot liquid. In winter, water is heated slowly; it may not have time to heat up to the optimal temperature, and it may flow out of the tap or shower cold.
Storage electric heaters - boilers. Not suitable for small rooms as they take up a lot of space. If the sauna is rarely heated in winter, the liquid inside the system may freeze. This will damage the boiler.

To prevent water from freezing in the storage electric heater, you can:

Install the boiler and turn on the minimum temperature setting. Disadvantage: extra electricity costs.
After each use, drain all liquid from the device.

Wood burning

If there is no electricity or gas, the only way to get hot liquid is by using a wood heater. It consists of four elements:

metal case;
solid fuel combustion chambers;
chimney for gas removal;
containers with liquid located above the firebox.

You can burn a wood stove with different types of wood. It is necessary to regularly clean the chimney and combustion chamber from soot and ash.

Gas

A gas heater is a flow-through column that runs on natural or liquefied gas. This is an economical equipment that works equally effectively in winter and summer.

Disadvantages of geysers:

expensive and complex installation;
To connect to the central gas supply system, you need to fill out a lot of paperwork.

Pipe heater

The heater can be built on a chimney pipe, and heating will be carried out from the smoke vented upward. Such a heat source can reach temperatures in excess of 500ºC, which can be put to good use before the smoke goes down the chimney. The main problem of the design is ensuring the tightness of the place where the chimney pipe enters the heating tank. The design itself includes a tank in which a hole is made in the bottom for the chimney. The joint must be sealed with a heat-resistant sealant or clay-lime-sand mortar.

The use of cement mortar is not recommended due to its cracking under such thermal loads.

The main advantage of the samovar system is the use of wasted energy for business benefit. In addition, the rather high location of the tank makes it possible to use it as a shower if you install an appropriate water spray.

The big disadvantage is the complexity of the design and the more difficult pouring of water, taking into account the height of the top cover.

Source

Heating from the stove

To economically heat water for a bath, you can use several methods. Each of them has certain nuances.

Via heat exchanger

Heating via heat exchanger:

A brick oven with two walls is made.
A thick-walled pipe bent in a zigzag is installed between the walls. The more bends, the better.
A cold stream of water flows through one end of the pipe, and hot water flows out through the other.

If the furnace is metal, you can use different types of heat exchangers:

interior;
external;
fixed to the chimney.

Application of water tanks

Modern metal stoves often include a water tank, which comes in two types:

Built-in - the container is located above the combustion chamber inside the stove body. The advantage is fast heating. The disadvantage is the small volume.
Mounted - can be located next to the chimney or the side of the stove. Can be of any size.

If you wish, you can make a tank from metal sheets yourself. To secure it to the stove you need to use homemade fasteners.

Water heater installation

They are made in production. A chimney runs through the central part of the tank. It gets very hot when wood burns and gives off heat.

Sauna stoves with water tank

There must be hot water in the bathhouse. Some people find a way out by installing an electric water heater, while others prefer to heat water on a stove. In this case, you need to decide what type of tank suits you.

Sauna stoves with remote tanks

A remote tank is one of the most convenient options. This is a method that allows you to simultaneously heat water and use it to heat another room, for example in a sink. In addition, if the water is heated in a remote tank, a situation will never arise when the steam room has not yet warmed up to the required temperature, but the water has boiled and fills the room with moist steam. A remote tank is perhaps the only option if you want to equip a sauna with its dry hot air, and not a Russian bath.

An example of installing a remote tank in an adjacent room

The remote tank is usually made of stainless steel and installed in an adjacent room. A special register (heat exchanger) is installed in the furnace for heating water, which is connected to the tank using hoses or pipes (pipes are preferable - safer).

Stainless steel heat exchanger for furnaces

The lower edge of the tank should be 50-70 cm above the register. In this case, water circulation will occur without the use of pumps. In order for water to circulate freely, it is important that the total length of pipes (hoses) does not exceed 3 meters. The diameter of the pipes is also important - it must be at least an inch, otherwise you will have to install a pump. Also make sure that there are no sagging pipes. For optimal water circulation, a tilt of 2-5 degrees is required.

Oven "Heat". An example of installing a remote tank in an adjacent room

The heat exchanger for Zhara stoves is made of stainless steel 5 mm thick and has a cylindrical shape.

Heat exchanger for Zhara furnaces

The main disadvantage of remote tanks is the relative complexity of installation and connection. And the registers needed to heat water cost money, plus installation costs, pipes, hoses, taps. As a result, the amount is not so small. But you have the opportunity to arrange a shower or even connect a radiator to heat the shower or locker room in the winter.

Installation tanks for sauna stoves

These tanks are named after the installation method - they are placed directly on the combustion chamber. This option is popular when making sauna stoves from a piece of iron pipe with your own hands. The water in containers of this type is heated from the top wall of the firebox, which is not always convenient and efficient. The most important task in the manufacture and installation of such a tank is to ensure the tightness and strength of the seams.

Advice. When purchasing a stainless steel tank, be sure to pay attention to the quality of the seams. The seam must not be burned through, otherwise such a tank will not last long.

Stainless Steel Oven Mounting Tank

Their bottom can be flat or with a recess in the shape of a stove. You can make such tanks with your own hands or buy ready-made ones that are suitable in shape and size.

Recessed tank

Tanks on a pipe

One of the popular options is tanks that are installed on the chimney pipe. They are also called samovar-type tanks - they resemble old samovars. There are several ways to install a water tank:

A round or square tank is installed on a pipe 50-60 cm above the combustion chamber. In some cases, it can serve as a passage through the roof.
The most budget-friendly ready-made stoves with this type of tank are the “Zhara” stoves. Pipe tanks on Zhara stoves
The tank is installed on the second floor.
So far, only Varvara offers this option. This tank can also be used as a passage unit through the ceiling. The principle of organizing a remote tank on the pipe of Varvara stoves. Heating of water provides not only heat exchange from the pipe, but also a register in the stove, due to which the volume of the tank of such a stove can be very considerable: 60 or 120 liters, which, as the manufacturer says, heats up within an hour.

Stove "Varvara" with a water tank of 120 liters

provides the opportunity to install a samovar-type tank on all of its stoves. For example, you can buy the popular Tunguska model and install a tank with a tap for water intake.

Tunguska stove with a samovar-type tank (on a pipe)

You can install a tank of a more original shape - “Baikal”. The cross-section of the tank has the shape of a Reuleaux triangle.

Tank "Baikal" samovar type

The Baikal tank can be purchased in different sizes: 53, 67 and 75 liters. As a rule, such volumes of water are quite sufficient in most cases.

The advantages of installing tanks on a pipe include the fact that they significantly save space in the steam room.

Sauna stoves with hanging tank

Stoves with a hanging tank are convenient because such containers can be quickly installed/dismantled. Usually the tanks are attached using loops and hooks to one of the walls of the stove. The water in them is heated by heat exchange from the furnace wall. As a rule, such tanks are made of stainless steel, they have a lid for adding water and a tap for hot water. Several stoves with a water tank are offered by the one already familiar to us.

Sauna stoves with hanging tank “Varvara”

Such designs have significant disadvantages: they do not provide the opportunity to organize a shower and you can easily get burned on the hot walls. Often a situation also arises when the temperature in the steam room has not yet reached the required values, but the water in the tank is already boiling, filling the room with raw steam. With experience, you can avoid this - hang up the tank later (although there is a risk of getting burned) or periodically drain hot water during the heating process (steam brooms, for example) and add cold water.

Mounted tanks for Ermak stoves are easy to install and remove

Wall-mounted tanks are convenient because they can easily and quickly retrofit an existing and operating furnace. It is also a great option for small stoves and small spaces. Also, do not forget that a hinged tank, just like a mounted tank, is very easy to wash inside (over time, plaque may form on the inner surface of the tank).

Offers an excellent option. They thought out the system so that one tank can be used both as a mounted tank and as a remote tank.

In Ermak stoves, the same tank can be used as a hinged one, and then, by purchasing a register and installing it in the stove, it can be converted into an external one

If you need a remote tank, the stove is equipped with a circuit that is placed to the right or left of the firebox (see photo of the heat exchanger of the Ermak stove above in the text). Moreover, configuration changes can occur already during operation. You can order the necessary part, insert it into the oven, hang the tank and connect the pipes/hoses.

Remote tank 40 liters for Ermak stoves (in protective film). Material: polished stainless steel

Installation principles

It's easier to use a mounted tank. To assemble and install it you need:

Make a box from metal sheets 2–3 mm thick. Weld individual parts.
Cut a hole in the top of the box for pouring liquid. Make a hole in the bottom and install a tap. This is necessary to use the liquid or drain it from the tank.
Attach metal hooks to the side of the stove.
Weld two tags to the tank, by which it will be hung on hooks.

Even after connecting the water supply system to the bathhouse, questions will arise about how to heat the water. There are several methods for this, each of which has certain features and is suitable for different types of baths.

Design with heat exchanger

If there is a need to tie the tank for heating water to a specific place away from the stove, then a design with a heat exchanger is used. This design is based on the fact that the heating furnaces have a coil of steel pipe inside, through which cold water is supplied. Passing through the oven, the liquid is heated and enters a separate container, where hot water accumulates. The tank volume is usually 60-80 liters and heats up within 1.6-2.2 hours.

The heat exchanger uses a well-known physical law - the cold mass goes down, and the heated liquid moves up. This determines the placement of the tank. The main advantage of the heat exchange system is that there is no need to connect the tank to the furnace. The downside of the heater is its more complex design.

Why doesn't the bathhouse keep warm?

Home page / Blog / Why the sauna doesn’t keep warm

Cold in a bathhouse is a necessary and useful thing, if of course it is in the form of a tub of ice water or a bucket of snow, in any other case it is a real disaster. It should be noted that this trouble is not the rarest one that lovers of brooms and steam have to face.

Not a high temperature in a steam room is common; many of us are generally supporters of a warm bath, but, as they say, everything should be in moderation. When, after throwing water on, there is no smell of steam, or it immediately evaporates, or your feet freeze on the floor, then this is no longer the case.

Let's try to figure out what are the reasons for this phenomenon and whether it is possible to do something.

What kind of wood to heat the bathhouse with?

No matter how strange it may sound, the bathhouse should be heated only with dry wood. It is simply not wise to use wet and poorly dried ones. Firstly, it is difficult to light the stove. Secondly, such logs burn poorly. Thirdly, a lot of acrid smoke is generated. Fourthly, due to lower heat transfer, you will have to burn a much larger amount compared to dry ones. Fifthly, raw firewood will never create a high temperature in a steam room, and this is a real problem for a true sauna connoisseur.

Firewood for a bath should be chosen of medium size. It is approximately 6-8 cm in diameter. Logs that are too small burn out very quickly, and therefore you have to frequently add new portions. This option does not look entirely economical. Larger firewood burns much longer, but does not produce the optimal temperature. Conclusion - choose the average size.

Wood, as you know, is often susceptible to rotting. But it is not recommended to heat a bathhouse with wood so rotten and spoiled by insects. The entire healing effect of the steam room may be lost. Since, along with rot, spores of various molds and fungi can get into the bathhouse. This arrangement of things will not have a very good effect on the body.

Now about something else, which wood species should you prefer? Of course, it is best to heat a bathhouse with birch. You can’t go anywhere without this “Russian beauty.” She will give you a fluffy birch broom and heat the stove perfectly. Birch wood gives a very high combustion temperature. This is due to the fact that it contains tar, which burns simply amazingly. Birch firewood is the best firewood for a sauna. Even coal (of course, not all brands) often cannot compare with them in terms of the amount of heat generated.

Other hardwoods are less effective for saunas, and firewood from oak or linden is much more expensive than birch. Poplar and aspen are also used to fire the stove, but they generate much less heat. By the way, aspen is often used to naturally clean chimneys. The flame of this tree is capable of burning soot in all smoke channels of the stove.

In Siberia and the East of our country, coniferous trees often act as firewood. For example, fir or Christmas tree burn well due to the presence of resin, but have a more pungent smoke. Such firewood produces excessive sparks during combustion. You can often see sparks flying out of the pipe, which can travel tens of meters. This is not good in terms of fire safety of the bathhouse. Spark arrestors will not hurt in this case.

It's all in the oven

You need to start with it, because it is initially the source of heating. The type, design and location of the furnace certainly plays an important role in this.

There are usually no problems with good heating in factory-made heaters, which cannot be said about home-made ones. An incorrectly welded stove like this can bring problems instead of saving money. The absence of an ash pan, a deflector, a poorly designed firebox or chimney lead to the fact that water and stones simply do not reach the desired temperature.

A bathhouse with just such a stove - as long as it is heated, it seems to be nothing, as soon as the wood burns out it immediately becomes cooler. Therefore, it is very important to properly manage the heat received from the firewood: the fire should not just fly away into the chimney, it should warm up the water tank and the niche with stones.

If such a stove does not cope with its task, we can recommend the following:

- the water tank should be placed on top of the firebox, and not on the side, - the heating of the stones should be made direct, - the bowl with the stones should be closed completely or partially, - a valve should be installed on the chimney pipe.

Factory heaters usually have no problems with this, but there is another problem - they do not retain heat. Why is this point so important, it’s simple - quick heating is not enough, you also need to keep the heat for a long period, otherwise it will be a bathhouse for one.

This is achieved by increasing the amount of material capable of accumulating heat and releasing it gradually, and not instantly, as is the case with metal. For expensive models, this function is performed by convector casings made of stone; for budget products, the solution would be: partial brick lining, hanging a samovar-type water tank or a mesh with stones on the chimney, moving the chimney duct from the center to the side or to the rear wall (if provided design).

Difference by type

The simplest designs of heat exchangers are coils with ends removed from the tank: one takes in liquid at room temperature, the other releases hot liquid.

More complex ones are a system consisting of two metal tanks with anti-corrosion properties - cylindrical and rectangular in shape with connecting pipes.

At the location of the water tank

There are two ways:

This photo shows an option for installing a heat exchanger in a steam room and a tank in a wash room.

The second option is to install a heat exchanger with a tank inside the steam room.

Advantages of installing a heat exchanger in a steam room

high water heating speed;
saving free space in the steam room;
Wide range of options for installing the tank - in a steam room or in a shower room.

At home, they resort to closed treatment, that is, one in which bandages with healing substances are applied to the burn site.

For a first-degree burn, it is enough to apply a bandage with an anti-inflammatory agent for 4-5 days. During this time, the skin will heal.

The first stage of treatment for a second-degree burn is carried out by a doctor, and further care is carried out by the patient himself or his relatives.

The doctor treats the burn surface. This procedure includes a number of steps:

anesthesia;
treating the skin around the wound with an antiseptic;
removal of clothing, dirt and exfoliated layer of epithelium;
emptying the blisters without removing their lid, which serves as wound protection;
applying a gauze bandage with bactericidal ointment (streptomycin, levosulfamethakaine, etc.) to the burn site.

The dressing is changed every two to three days until the wound is completely healed.

Poor ventilation

Let’s say you are completely confident in the performance of your stove, but it’s cold in the bathhouse! In this case, let's pay attention to ventilation. In the old days, when they didn’t know what insulation, double-glazed windows or self-leveling floors were, no one thought about ventilation, the air itself seeped in and also went out through the ceiling powder. And the space of a village bathhouse was not divided into two or more rooms. Now everything is different, which requires a modern approach.

Separation of zones with careful insulation of each of them is simply impossible without properly arranged ventilation, otherwise the air will just stand - cold at the bottom, hot at the top. Our task is to make it circulate, thereby distributing the heat where we need it.

This is usually done like this: a small window is installed in the partition of the steam room with the washing room; it connects two closed rooms. In the washing room, usually near the stove, a ventilation hole is made, which is led through the floor into the steam room through a channel or corrugation. The system arranged in this way works as follows: heated air from the stones enters the room, and is replaced by cold air through the lower hole into the steam room.

It became warm in the washing room or they went to take a steam bath - the top window was closed.

This system can be modified and linked to a leaking floor, but more on that below.

What to do

In wall-mounted tanks, water often heats up too quickly and boils, so it is not practical to install such structures on compact steel stoves.

Containers that are too large do not always have time to warm up the water, so they must be replaced with more practical and compact “samovar” type devices.

It should be remembered that the dimensions of connecting pipes, fittings and taps must correspond to the design. Even a slight narrowing of the pipeline system can cause the pipe and water to warm up too slowly. The presence of a negative angle of inclination of the pipeline will cause a lack of heating, so the system will have to be redone. The optimal slope for the pipes connecting the heat exchanger to the tank should be 35–45 o.

Source of the article: https://tvoya-banya.ru/banshikam/ploho-greetsya-voda-v-bake-v-bane.html

Attention to the foundation and floor

Often the cause of coolness in the bathhouse is a cold floor, and the roots of this problem go back to the very beginning of the construction of the building, and they are different for rustic and modern buildings.

Rural baths are characterized by a strip foundation, an earthen subfloor and a leaky wooden floor. This is where we proceed in solving the problem.

The space under the boards itself does not freeze even in severe frosts (for a chopped bath), so in order to prevent your feet from freezing, we do the following:

We increase the space between the floor and the ground a little. This can be done in two ways - make the foundation higher or remove a layer of earth.
Sprinkle the perimeter of the concrete/brick tape on the inside with sand or expanded clay.
Make a pile on all sides outside.
Do not lay the floor boards close to the frame or to each other; we also leave a gap near the stove.
Make the floor slightly higher than the base of the heater.

All this may not help modern frame buildings, as well as those made of brick or blocks, especially since in most of them you will not find a simple drainage of water to the ground. They are equipped with concrete bowls with a system for collecting and draining water to the outside. Moreover, many began to do this not only in the washing room, but also along the entire contour of the bathhouse.

In such buildings, t under the floor is often equal to that on the street, i.e. at -20 degrees in winter, after a week's absence, you will have almost the same amount under the floor. What happens - you turn on the stove, after an hour and a half it’s already hot, but downstairs it’s still cold.

It is better not to insulate the foundation from the inside with various types of foam-based materials - this threatens the appearance of condensation on the surface of the tape. Including the floor in the ventilation system will be very effective. In the washing room we make the floor leaky (in this case a special hole is not needed) and partially the same in the steam room. The heated air passes through the window into the washing room, heats this room, cools and is drawn back into the steam room through the cracks in the floor. By circulating in this way, the air warms the floor and underground space much faster.

For those who have a monolithic screed, we can only advise laying a water or electric floor; adding layers of insulation to the base will not give the desired effect.

Let's warm ourselves up

Baths made of stone, frame, panel and timber necessarily require insulation from the inside and outside.

Inside, this process is carried out using long-established technology - frame, vapor barrier, mineral insulation, foil, lining, so we will not focus on this.

Article on the topic: How to make a water seal in a bathhouse

For greater reliability, it is advisable to carry out appropriate work on the outer walls of the bathhouse - they consist of laying wind protection and securing protective material from precipitation.

In log cabins, the points of heat loss are: doors, windows, inter-crown grooves and the ceiling. Unlike the above buildings, in bathhouses made of round timber there is no need to completely insulate the walls. They already retain heat perfectly, and there is no point in covering such beauty; it will be enough to decorate only the steam room with eurolining.

Bath insulation work is as follows:

caulk inside and outside,
insulation of doors and windows,
ceiling insulation.

If you don’t need to sheathe the walls, then the ceiling is a must. This work can be done only from the inside, only from the outside, or both. Roofing work may be required to insulate the ceiling.

From the side of the room, it will be enough to attach aluminum foil or kraft paper to the rough ceiling, on top of which the lining is attached with a small air gap. On the side of the attic space, you can lay insulation or backfill.

Here are all the main points to improve your bathhouse. Of course, we must admit that some of them simply will not suit you, others will be difficult to implement, and others will not be effective, but this is how each building should have its own approach, its own characteristics.

Fifth principle

(and, apparently, optimal for stationary baths) - heating the air and walls due to the hot water located in the reservoir (swimming pool, bath). That is, they heat the water in the reservoir, and everything else heats up by itself. This principle is cultivated by the Japanese as a bathing principle. The Japanese procedure (“furo” or “sento”) consists of two stages. First, they “sweat” in hot water, and gradually increase the temperature as they “get used to it.” At the same time, people actually sweat in hot water. Moreover, they sweat a lot in optimal conditions, when the legs and arms are at the same temperatures, and the head does not overheat. The sweat does not evaporate, but is immediately washed off. Frankly speaking, the conditions are ideal. You can wash and scrub at the same time.

Then, at the second stage, the person does not cool himself intensely, as sometimes happens in a Russian or Finnish bathhouse, but, on the contrary, wraps himself up and lies under a blanket on the couch and sweats “pure sweat” for a long time. Every steamer knows how long after a steam room the body remains hot inside. Sweating “clean sweat” is actually beneficial, but it is quite difficult to withstand 1-2 hours.

The method at first glance is extremely common and simple. Essentially, it’s just a bathtub—every city apartment has one. Or a hot pool, of which there are many, if not in our country, then in Europe and America for sure. But it could have originated in places where there were hot natural water sources (geothermal waters). And it can only develop at a high level of civilization, since it requires huge amounts of heat to heat, supply and store large amounts of hot water. It is difficult, for example, to seriously imagine it being viable not only in the cold wild nature of Ancient Rus', but even in the conditions of a modern dacha plot. And even more so in winter.

Fourth principle

- heating of the human body and the room by infrared radiation, for example, radiation from electric coils, coals, hot stones or oven walls, as well as solar radiation. In this case, the air may not heat up at all and be very cold (down to sub-zero temperatures) and very dry. However, a person will feel very hot in the cold air and will sweat. On the way to creating such “steam rooms” there are significant technical difficulties in implementing circular heating of the body. Although the first samples of infrared cabins (albeit still far from perfect and suitable only for medical procedures) have already appeared on the US market, however, anyone who has a metal “potbelly stove” can feel the effect of infrared radiation: sometimes it is simply impossible to stand next to it - burns. The principle is valuable because the radiation here goes directly to the surface of the walls and to the human body. Thus, the essence of the principle is that walls and people are heated by infrared radiation, and the air is then heated by the walls.

There are cracks in the doors and windows

To minimize heat loss through windows, in bathhouses they are installed slightly lower than the usual level. Glass in frames must be durable, and when installing it is better to use sealants.

The second reason is gaps that gradually form in doorways as a result of contact of wood with moisture. Therefore, if your bathhouse is not new for a long time and you notice the appearance of such cracks, it’s time to change the doors in the rooms: install a metal entrance door, and choose a door to the steam room from glass options.

Advantages of the LOGICPIR BANYA thermal plate

Thermal insulation material based on rigid polyurethane foam from the TECHNONICOL company has many advantages:

The record low thermal conductivity coefficient of LOGICPIR (0.022 W/m*K) and two reflective layers of foil create the so-called “thermos effect” - they allow you to heat the room faster and maintain the set temperature for a long time.
The material of LOGICPIR boards does not absorb moisture, and the foil lining serves as a continuous vapor-proof layer. This means that additional vapor barrier is not required for the walls.
Thermal stove does not support combustion and prevents the spread of fire. This is especially important for use in a steam room.
Even at temperatures above 100°C, the material does not emit harmful substances hazardous to human health.
Does not shrink, does not get wet and does not rot. Not afraid of mold and rodents. Maintains useful characteristics throughout its service life.
Due to the low thermal conductivity coefficient and long-term heat retention in the steam room, significantly less firewood or electricity is required for kindling.
Operating mode of LOGIPIR BATH – from –65°С to 120°С.
In the event of a fire, the outer layer of the slab will carbonize and prevent the spread of fire.

Possessing excellent thermal insulation properties and a double-sided foil lining, LOGICPIR BATH not only maintains the set temperatures for a long time, but also heats the room faster due to the additional effect of reflective insulation. The LOGICPIR BANYA thermal plate is absolutely harmless to human health throughout its entire service life, which is more than 50 years. The product has already proven itself excellent among customers.

Results

1. We conditionally divided the baths according to climatic parameters into Turkish (40-60°C), Russian (60-80°C), Finnish (above 80°C). This division has no functional meaning. 2. Equally conventionally, we divided the baths:

- Turkish (stone with heated floors), Russian (wooden with brick stoves), modern Finnish (wooden with steel stoves);

b) according to the heating principle

- Turkish (heating of enclosing structures), Russian (steam heating), modern Finnish (hot air heating), Japanese (water heating), infrared and shower;

c) according to historical traditions

taking bath procedures - Turkish (massage the body with a woolen mitten and warming it up on a hot stone), Russian (sweating using a broom, contrast procedures), modern Finnish (sweating, shower, pool).

The walls let in cold air

One of the reasons that heat quickly leaves the bathhouse is the thin walls in the room. Even thick brick or block masonry is not able to store heat for hours. In addition, such walls absorb heat for a very long time, and you have to add firewood again and again, especially in the cold season.

As for a log bathhouse, it stores heat better, but over time, cold bridges may appear between the crowns due to poor-quality punching or deformation of the wood. To solve this problem, a bathhouse made of any material should be insulated.

Once you have determined that the walls are the cause of heat loss in the bathhouse, all you have to do is use high-quality insulation for them. There are not many of these on sale, but there are still some options. One of them is the LOGICPIR BANYA thermal plate, which combines insulation, vapor barrier and reflective insulation.

The LOGICPIR BANYA thermal plate is also suitable for insulating ceiling structures.