How to place beacons under plaster: basic rules for beginners | (Photo & Video)

Walls

Alexander Korovaev 08/02/2019

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Every homeowner sooner or later faces renovations. And, as you know, it starts from the walls. The better they are prepared, the better the final result will be.

All further work depends on how competently all the internal surfaces of the house are plastered - the entire appearance of the room directly depends on this important stage of construction.

How to place beacons under plaster is the topic of this article. At first glance, there is nothing complicated here, but this is not entirely true - you cannot do without knowledge and practical skills developed by entire generations of professional plasterers.

Why is it necessary to display beacons?

The beacons form a flat plane, which in the future will be the plane of the plaster. These elements create a kind of reference level. The lighthouses themselves are made of steel or wooden slats. In most cases, galvanized steel slats are used.

The beacons are attached to the wall with a certain pitch (800 - 1300 mm), the distance should not exceed the length of the rule, otherwise the whole point of alignment with the beacons is lost. A solution is thrown between the slats, then it is usually supported on two adjacent beacons and pulled from the floor to the ceiling. The rule cuts off excess plaster, resulting in a smooth surface.

Sealing corners

It is important to remember: correct plastering of corners is quite complex, but it is precisely this that determines the convenience of further finishing of the room. The accuracy of joining of skirting boards and ceiling cornices, ease of installation and integration of furniture and appliances, laying of communications, cladding or finishing of walls depend on how smooth the corners of the room are.

It is not enough to install the beacons correctly and quickly on the wall; it is necessary to maintain the verticality of the joint between the walls, walls and/or ceiling, floor. To strengthen the plaster composition, a reinforcing mesh or perforated corner is used.

The correct geometry is ensured by using a special trowel.

In this case, the sealing of parts of the wall adjacent to the corner can be carried out using a rule using a square and mandatory support on two or more beacons.

Factors influencing the correct installation of beacons

• installing beacons is the most crucial moment, so it is important at this stage to avoid mistakes that will spoil the entire result
• the slats should not have defects or bends that would disrupt the level
• walls with small differences do not always need to use beacons; sometimes it is enough to perform local alignment of dents and depressions
• it is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the beacon; if the difference on the wall is less than the thickness of the beacon (10 mm), then plastering along the guides does not make sense, since the required solution consumption will be exceeded
• The evenness of the installation of beacons can be affected by the preparation of the base. If there are traces of old mortar on the base, they will not allow you to install the slats evenly

Removing old mortar is one of the mandatory procedures before installing beacons.

How to correctly place beacons under plaster walls using a laser level

Installation of beacons is also carried out using a laser level, rules.

The work is carried out in compliance with the following stages:

1. The laser level is installed to the wall at a distance of 3-4 cm.
2. Deviations in level are marked with a pencil.
3. A metal square marks deviations from the surface.
4. The zero point is determined and marked on the wall.
5. The distance between the beacons is marked on the wall.
6. The solution is poured along the lines.
7. The profile strips are installed and fixed to the solution.
8. After fixing the beacons and leveling them, the remaining solution is removed.

What to make beacons for plaster from

For lighthouses, straight steel or wooden slats are usually used.

• wooden elements are rarely used, since when exposed to moisture from the solution, the wood can swell and deform
• Steel beacons are usually made of galvanized steel and have a T-shaped profile. There are also slats without galvanized coating. They rust faster, but it is important to understand that it is not recommended to leave any beacons inside the plaster
• gypsum beacons are rubbed from the plaster mixture, no auxiliary means are used - nothing needs to be removed from the wall

Sometimes you can come across the statement that galvanized beacons are better because they do not need to be removed from the plaster. In fact, this is a misconception. If you leave the beacon in the wall, you can accidentally hit it when drilling holes. Also, during the installation process, the galvanized layer may be damaged, these places will corrode and rust will appear on the surface of the plaster. Read more about mistakes when plastering work in the advice “Common mistakes when plastering walls.”

Introductory part - plaster beacons

Checking the vertical level of the wall

Not so long ago, the vast majority of plastering work was carried out without strict adherence to technical regulations, or rather with its minimum requirements. And this is understandable, the country was experiencing a housing crisis - the main thing was getting living space, and not the correct geometry of the internal partitions.

And there was a problem with building materials - even paper wallpaper was in short supply. But times have changed, the requirements have changed somewhat, there is a complete surplus of building materials, and everyone is talking about quality. I had to remember and learn to meet increased construction requirements.

So in this regard there are clear instructions prescribed in the main standards of the builder - SNIPakh.

SNiP 3.04.01-87

According to this provision, the plastered surface is subject to requirements regarding the following points:

• thickness of one layer of gypsum plaster
• reinforcement of plastered surfaces
• maximum permissible humidity of plaster material
• formation of plaster beacons in the conditions of creating an improved and high-quality finish
• layer strength
• the concept of “European-quality renovation” is also introduced

As can be seen from the situation, for improved and high-quality repairs, the installation of beacons is required.

Materials and tools

Before selecting a tool, you need to determine how to install the beacons. We list everything that may be required, but the number of materials and tools may vary depending on the installation method.

• slats for beacons will be required in any case (exception: rubbing of plaster beacons). If the room has a high ceiling, then you can make composite beacons from several parts. The easiest way to cut beacons is with metal scissors; if cutting is required, it is advisable to have this tool
• To install beacons you will need all the tools for plastering work: a trowel or spatula, usually clean containers for mixing the solution, you will also need a drill mixer
• if the self-tapping method of installation is used, then dowels and screws will be required. A screwdriver is not required, since we will tighten the screws with a screwdriver
• Measuring instruments play an important role when installing beacons. We need not only modern laser levels, but also such ancient and reliable measuring devices as a plumb line and angle. These are useful to have on hand to check your laser level readings.

A laser level will greatly facilitate your work, but its readings often need to be compared with other devices.

• a bubble level is a mandatory tool when installing beacons; it is advisable to have several: a long one (1.5 - 2 m) and a short one

There are ways to install beacons without using a laser level; in this case, only plumb lines and twine are used. This method is quite complicated for beginners, so even if you don’t have a laser level, it’s better to purchase one.

Final works

As a result of the work carried out, we obtain a fairly flat wall surface. However, such a wall may only be suitable for laying tiles, and then it will need to be primed. If you plan to carry out facing work with other materials, then you need to grind the wall surface using putty. This will help level the walls to a perfectly smooth state. At the beginning, a starting putty is used, a layer of which is applied according to the instructions of the mixture manufacturer. If the walls are to be painted or thin wallpaper is glued to them, then a finishing putty is also needed, which is rubbed over with a special grout mesh, which brings the walls to a perfectly smooth state.

As a result of the work carried out, we obtain a fairly flat wall surface

If you decide to level the walls in your apartment or house, then the best option would be plastering with beacons

You can carry out this work yourself, if you take into account the recommendations given above

Preparatory work for the installation of beacons

Before the actual installation of the beacons, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work.

Preparing the wall

Preparing the wall begins with cleaning the base: you need to remove dust, grease stains, mold, and whitewash. If there are traces of fungus on the wall, then these places need to be treated with fungicides. If the base is old plaster, then it needs to be tapped to reveal voids. When the surface makes a dull sound, in professional parlance “bangs”, it means you need to remove the old base, since in the future such an unreliable finish may move away from the wall.

If there are protruding pieces of old mortar on the wall, they need to be removed using a spatula. These pieces will interfere with the normal installation of beacons.

Surface primer

The surface is primed before installing the beacons. This is important, because otherwise the wall under the lighthouses will not be able to be processed.

The soil is selected depending on the type of base and the composition of the plaster that is planned to be applied.

• For porous surfaces such as aerated concrete, moisture absorption should be limited. For this purpose, stabilizing compounds are used that form a film on the surface.
• fragile substrates that do not have a strong structure should be treated with deep penetration primers. These compounds impregnate the surface and strengthen the material.
• for gypsum plasters, concrete bases must be treated with concrete contact. This quartz sand-based primer helps improve substrate adhesion. It forms a rough layer on the surface, which allows the gypsum plaster to grip and not slide off the wall

It should be understood that concrete contact from most manufacturers (with the exception of Ceresit CT19) is not intended for use with cement-sand mixtures. The principle of hardening of cement plaster is based on its growth into the base structure, so a layer of concrete contact will only complicate this process. Also, the adhesion of this type of primer is lower than that of cement plaster, so the finishing can simply tear the primer away from the wall when it shrinks.

Beacon markings

With any installation method, it is important to establish a reference point - this will be the most protruding part of the wall. In this place the layer of plaster will be minimal and all other points of the wall must be adjusted to this position.

There are several ways to determine the most prominent point, by marking with twine or using a bubble level.

In the first case, you need to find the upper corner points; they are marked at a distance of 10 cm from the wall and ceiling. Then holes are drilled at these points and screws are tightened. You should not screw the hardware all the way, it should be 3-5 cm away from the base to form a plaster plane. A plumb line is attached to the self-tapping screw, which shows the vertical. We set aside a similar distance of 10 - 20 cm from the floor, and also place a self-tapping screw at this point. We twist it according to the plumb line.

This operation must be carried out on both sides of the wall. The screws are connected to each other using twine. It turns out a rectangle with diagonal lines, this is the flat plane of the wall.

We find the locations of the first beacons; to do this, we make 10 cm indentations from the vertical sides of the rectangle. We divide the horizontal distances between the outer beacons into segments of 80 - 130 cm. The beacons will be located in these places. If there is a door or window opening on the wall, then you need to make an indent of 10 - 15 cm from it and mark another beacon.

To determine the most protruding point of the wall, take a square and measure the distance to the threads that mark the plaster plane. Measurements can be taken on paper or directly on the wall. The place with the smallest distance to the plaster plane is the most protruding. The first lighthouse is usually attached to this location.

If we have a laser level, the device does all this work for us; it creates a vertical or horizontal plane invisible to the eye, which is projected onto objects in the form of lines.

The second method is based on the use of a laser and bubble level. We apply a long bubble level (2 m) in different directions to the plane of the wall. This is how we find the most protruding area. Then we find a protruding point relative to the vertical. The vertical in this place can be marked with a level, or with a plumb line, as in the previous case.

After marking the outer beacons, you need to mark the intermediate ones; the distance between them should not exceed the length of the rule. At this stage, you already need to determine the installation method, since further work will be different.

Before starting work, you need to decide which method of installing beacons will be used, because this will at some points affect the progress of work.

Pull the “laces”

Using a hammer drill, we drill 6 holes with a drill (an impact drill for a hammer drill is called a drill) with a diameter of 6 mm along the edges of the profiles (to the right of the right and to the left of the left). The holes should be at the same distance from each other vertically as much as possible, that is, the lace lines should run as horizontally as possible.

To do this, measure along the edges of the beacons (between the corner and the beacon) an equal distance of 15-20 cm from the floor and ceiling along both edges and also find the vertical center of the wall and put marks. We drill holes for the dowels with self-tapping screws, insert the dowels, but do not screw in the screws.

We drill holes for screws on the right and left of the installed beacons

Having drilled the holes, we tie the end of the “lace” to the self-tapping screw near the cap. We tie it well so that it doesn’t come undone. We screw the self-tapping screw with the cord into the hole into which the dowel was previously inserted. The self-tapping screw with the cord must be recessed deeper than the lighthouse! If it is more convenient (if the depth from the beacon is shallow), then first screw in the self-tapping screw, then tie it with a string, then tighten the self-tapping screw.

We unwind the second end of the “lace” to the other edge. We screw the self-tapping screw into the second hole, not all the way. We tie the lace onto the self-tapping screw and screw the self-tapping screw deeper than the beacon. Thus, the lace lies tightly on the beacons, screwed with self-tapping screws. The tension should be strong enough so that it is like a string and does not sag. We expose two other “laces”.

The laces lie tight on the beacons

Installation of beacons on mortar cakes

This method does not involve the use of auxiliary fasteners and screws, and the person performing the work requires certain experience and skills. Small mortar cakes are applied to the places where the lighthouse is attached. A lighthouse is glued to them on top.

We set the laser level aside at a distance that is the sum of the height of the beacon (6 - 10 mm) and the width of the rule. You need to place the rule on the beacon and press the rod into the solution until the edge of the rule aligns with the laser level mark. To check adjacent beacons horizontally, a rule is also laid between them. If an unevenness is detected, you can press on the more protruding side.

What will you need?

This method does not require additional auxiliary means, only a solution is needed. In this case, it will be very useful to have a laser level.

Advantages of the method

• no need for a large number of auxiliary tools
• does not require much time for marking

Disadvantages of the method

• Without experience, you may not calculate the effort and press the beacons too hard into the solution. In this case, they will need to be peeled off and placed in the solution in areas of subsidence.

What are beacons, their types, advantages and disadvantages

Lighthouse plaster is considered a universal way to level walls, because... suitable in most cases.

Beacons are limiting strips that the master focuses on when applying a layer of plaster. Although their installation takes some time, the work is easier and faster, and the result is of high quality.

There are several types of beacons that are most commonly used, for example:

Metal lighthouse. It is a special profile, sometimes called a beacon strip, having a height of 3, 6, 10 mm. Its advantages are:

1. It is ready to use.
2. Its installation takes little time.
3. Such beacons do not need to be dried; plastering of the surface can begin within a few hours after installation.
4. They are best used when working with small planes, secured with dowels.
5. You can buy beacons for plaster at any hardware store.

But such devices also have serious disadvantages, namely:

1. Most lighthouse slats are bent during manufacturing or transportation.
2. If you need to plaster a large area, then achieving a smooth surface in this way will be extremely difficult. After the solution hardens, the lighthouse appears above it. To hide this defect, it is necessary to either apply an additional layer of glue or grind off the protruding parts.
3. If the surface of the walls is leveled with gypsum, then at the end of the work the lighthouse slats will have to be cut down and the resulting irregularities will then be sealed. This has to be done because the metal reacts with the plaster, after which rust appears on the surface.
4. Metal profiles are not very strong and, in order to strengthen the structure, they need to be coated with a solution along their entire length. In the future, when the solution begins to harden, the surface in these places may separate into pieces.

Lighthouse made from a pipe. It also consists of metal, but at the same time it has greater strength and does not require reinforcement with mortar along the entire length. Because of this feature, it is allowed to begin finishing on the same day that the beacons were installed. Due to the fact that the entire space underneath is filled with the solution, the screed is continuous and does not fall into pieces when hardening begins. You can use not only a pipe, but also a profile with a square cross-section, which is even preferable, because has greater reliability and is almost always smooth. It is removed from the screed the next day after its installation and does not cause problems. The disadvantage of such a beacon is that it bends when removed incorrectly from the screed.

Lighthouse made of cement or plaster mixture. This beacon is the simplest and therefore the most popular. If you use it, you do not need to purchase additional materials, ensure that they are not bent, deliver them to their destination, etc. In addition, they allow you to obtain an even plane over both small and large areas. The disadvantages of such beacons include their complexity, because very few people know how to position them correctly, and also the fact that they protrude above the surface.

Installation of beacons on screws and gypsum plaster

The installation method using self-tapping screws involves installing hardware that will serve as a support for the lighthouse. They will play the role of a “zero point”, below which the lighthouse cannot be sunk. This method involves the preliminary installation of self-tapping screws. The most protruding point on the wall will be the place where the first hardware is attached; we drill a hole in it and hammer in a dowel. Use a screwdriver to tighten the self-tapping screw until the end. First, you need to stick a piece of masking tape on the screwdriver. When the self-tapping screw is tightened, we make a mark on the tape on the plaster level, which is marked with ropes or a laser level mark.

Having this mark, we tighten the screws under the other beacons, aligning the mark on the screwdriver with the laser line or rope. The further steps are no different from the first method; we apply a solution to the screws, into which we press the beacon.

What will you need?

In this method, in addition to all the tools, you need self-tapping screws, dowels and a drill for drilling holes.

Advantages of the method

• there is no way to drown the beacon in the solution, since it is supported by self-tapping screws
• all work “by eye” is kept to a minimum

Disadvantages of the method

• work takes longer due to the need to install self-tapping screws

Setting up beacons using a laser level

The device should be installed so that the beam is parallel to the bottom of the wall. Adjustment is made with a diagonal screw. Orientation along the lower boundary is explained by the fact that even with significant defects in the wall, the first rows of masonry are usually smooth

Next, the absence of an obstacle in the laser path is checked (after an unevenness, the beam stops). The device is adjusted so that the distance between the beam and the surface does not exceed 1 mm.

The next step is drilling holes and screwing in screws. Their arrangement should ensure that they are in the same plane. Control should be carried out with a laser level. A thread is pulled along the screws, which will guide the installation of the material.

Installation using a platform for a lighthouse

This method involves the use of various fasteners for beacons; they are installed on self-tapping screws and provide a more reliable fixation than in the first two methods. In this case, after installing the screws, we immediately attach the beacons to them using fasteners. The solution here acts as an additional retainer so that the rail does not dangle.

The solution must be applied locally near the fastening points so that the beacon is fixed and does not sag. In this case, there is no need to make a continuous layer of mortar on both sides of the lighthouse; such separation of plaster layers on different sides will lead to uneven hardening.

What will you need?

The kit is similar to the previous installation method: self-tapping screws, dowels, and a drill for drilling holes. Mounts for beacons will also be needed.

• cremmer - the mount is fixed to the installed screw. When the beacon is installed, the edges of the cremmer are bent and secure it. If the screw is tightly twisted, then it is difficult to install this element, and the curved edges do not provide reliable fixation - the beacon can still dangle
• “eared” - installed simultaneously with self-tapping screws. In this case, fixation is also carried out by bending the edges of the fastener
• The platform for the beacon with a clip provides the most reliable fixation. At the same time, it adds additional thickness to the plaster layer, since the platform itself protrudes from the wall. An increase in the plaster layer leads to an increase in the cost of work, so recesses can be made in the wall for platforms with clips

Advantages of the method

• maximum fixation of beacons, less chance of making a mistake.

Disadvantages of the method

• the speed of work is reduced: additional time is required to install fasteners and to deepen them into the wall
• additional costs for fasteners

Installation

Attaching beacon profiles to the wall can be done using devices or using the adhesive method. The most famous devices are:

• "Kremmer";
• "eared";
• clip.

Latch "Kremmer"

This type of fastening is made in the form of a rectangular galvanized plate with a slot in the middle designed to capture the head of the screw. Attached to the profile plane by bending the ends onto the beacon.

The presence of slots at the ends of the plate makes it possible to bend the ends by hand, without the use of special tools. When all the fasteners are installed, the beacon is pressed against the screws, and the Kremmer is pushed onto the hardware until the head of the screw is fixed in it.

Having many advantages over other types of fastenings:

• quick installation - the ends of the fastening can be bent by hand without using pliers;
• thin, which is why the plaster layer in many cases is not as thick as, for example, when using a clip, which significantly saves dry mortar.

Kremmer mount.

• can be used on any type of hardware (self-tapping screw, screw, dowel-nail);
• tensions the beacon guides well.

It is not as popular as the other two devices. The reasons are the shortcomings. Minuses:

• self-tapping screws should be installed at a distance of 30 cm from each other, which increases their number on the beacon line, and this means additional time for installing dowels and screwing in self-tapping screws;
• a slight deviation of the hardware head from the vertical line does not allow the Kremmer latch to grab it;
• It is difficult to attach it to the profile so that the cutout for the screw head is exactly in the middle of the beacon.

"Ushastik"

This type of fastening, like the Kremmer latch, is made of galvanized steel. It is a rectangular plate with a hole in the middle for a self-tapping screw and ears for bending onto a metal profile.

How to install beacons for plastering walls on the “eared”? The technology is the simplest:

1. when screwing the screws into the dowels, the “eared ear” is passed under its head - the hardware is screwed in together with the fastener;
2. after bringing all the screws into one plane, the profile is tightly applied to their heads, and the fastening ears are bent, fixing the beacon.

"Eared" fastening.

Clip

This type of fastening is made of polypropylene. Consists of two parts:

• a base that is attached to a self-tapping screw and holds the profile;
• plugs - fixes the entire structure motionless.

The clip (abbreviated as KDM-2) has a thickness of 6 mm, which is most acceptable for rough plaster, when its layer should be at least 12 mm (6 mm clip + 6 mm profile).

How to attach beacons to a wall under plaster using clips? The plug is removed from the mount. Its base is fixed on the head of the screw. The beacon is inserted into the clip and closed with a plug. The operation on the entire profile takes 3-4 minutes.

Fastening with glue (plaster mixture)

In a situation where there are no special mounts for beacons, you can use:

• ordinary plaster (cement mortar) with the obligatory addition of PVA glue (to speed up the setting process);
• gypsum dry mixture;
• tile adhesive.

Attention: the use of plaster mixtures with gypsum in the bathroom, toilet and kitchen is not recommended.

How to install beacons for plastering walls with mortar? For this you will need:

• dry plaster mortar of any kind;
• plasticizers (PVA glue to speed up the setting process, liquid soap to slow it down);
• mixer;
• container for mixing the solution;
• trowel.

The instructions for this technology contain only 5 points.

1. The guide beacons are cut to size using a grinder.
2. The solution is mixed (each type of mixture has its own recommendations printed on the packaging).
3. Along the lines of the beacons, between the screws, a solution is applied to the wall every 15 cm.
4. The profile sits on the screws with the straps down until it fits snugly to the heads of the hardware.
5. The solution that has come out from under the lighthouse is removed with a trowel.

The walls can be plastered only after the adhesive has completely dried. For gypsum this is 2-3 days, for other types of mortar - at least 8 days. Therefore, professional plasterers very rarely use this method of attaching guide beacons. If the apartment is being renovated on its own, the extra few days do not play any role.

Mortar beacons

If you want to save money and not bother with removing metal beacons from plaster, beacons can be made from mortar.

How to place beacons under plaster walls made of mortar? There is nothing complicated here either. The only requirement is that the beacons must be made from the same mortar that will be used to plaster the wall. The step-by-step process looks like this:

• Along the line of beacons, after 1 m, self-tapping screws, pre-lubricated with oil or soap, are screwed into the dowels;
• All screws are brought into the same plane with the first hardware, already aligned in accordance with the calculations;
• The solution is being prepared;

Mortar beacons.

• Using a trowel, the solution is transferred to the wall between the screws. A solid shaft is formed, from bottom to top, covering the screws by 1-2 mm;
• A rule, also lubricated with oil, is placed on the solution (so that the solution does not stick) and pressed until it comes into contact with the heads of the screws;
• Excess mortar that has come out from under the rule is removed with a trowel or spatula;
• After the hydration process is completed, the screws are unscrewed.

Work can be continued only after the mortar beacon has gained strength. If you do this earlier, the possibility of destruction of the lighthouse during leveling of the plaster with the rule cannot be ruled out.

Attentiveness and strict implementation of all recommendations will allow you to correctly install the beacons, which will serve as the key to well-executed plaster.

Rubbed plaster beacons

This method does not involve the use of plaster or steel beacons; instead, gypsum plaster is used. The installation method is quite complicated for beginners. For insurance, self-tapping screws are sometimes pre-installed. At the same time, you need to understand that the screws are then difficult to remove from the wall, and leaving them in the plaster can have negative consequences: the appearance of traces of rust, getting into the fasteners when drilling the wall.

To remove self-tapping screws from a rubbed beacon, their heads must be visible on the surface of the beacon.

In most cases, rubbed beacons are made without screws. To do this, plaster is applied to a narrow plane of the rule and glued to the place where the lighthouse is attached. Press the rule to the laser level mark. The protruding mortar is cut off from the edges with a spatula. To separate the rule from the wall, use a thread that is pulled between the solution and the plane of the tool.

What will you need?

A set of tools, as in the first installation method. The difference is the presence or absence of self-tapping screws.

Advantages of the method

• beacons do not need to be removed from the wall
• most efficient in terms of time costs

Disadvantages of the method

• requires extensive experience working with plasters; without specific skills, work will take a lot of time
• if self-tapping screws are not used, the beacon can be flattened too much
• the method is only suitable for working with gypsum plaster, and combinations of gypsum and cement plaster are in some cases unacceptable

Do-it-yourself wall surface preparation

Before correctly positioning beacons for plastering walls, it is necessary to prepare the surfaces. You will need to clean the walls of old finishing materials (wallpaper, plaster, dyes). Then stains and mold are removed from the surfaces and treated with antiseptic compounds. Metal fasteners are removed from the wall or treated with water-based paint. Cracks and chips are filled with primer and leveled. Smooth concrete surfaces are covered with notches to increase adhesion to the plaster mixture.

When preparing a base with brickwork, the seams are opened to a depth of about 10 mm, dust is removed from the surfaces, a primer is applied, the primer layer is dried and, if necessary, reinforced.

Purpose

When a house is being renovated, finishing the walls takes up most of the time. To remove cracks and level the walls, you must first plaster them. If there are problem surfaces, special beacons are installed that act as a guide where it is necessary to create a perfectly flat plane. Beacons for plaster vary in size.

The guide is installed on the wall in the place of the depression so that the master can make the surface even. It should be secured with several self-tapping screws, otherwise the construction beacon will not hold tightly. Afterwards, dowel-nails with threads are inserted, which serve as the main guide for applying the plaster in an even layer. Beacons are attached to the mixture, which must first be spread over the walls and ceiling every 30 centimeters maximum.

The variety of problems with walls and ceilings forces craftsmen to take different approaches to their repair, choosing the best option for work. Also, beacons for leveling walls differ from each other.

If you choose the right type of guides, you can achieve excellent results without spending a lot of effort and materials.

Types and sizes

Many home craftsmen who are starting to plaster walls for the first time do not know what kind of beacons there are in terms of type and parameters, and which ones are best to buy. Their main difference lies in the materials from which they are made.

Metal

They are the most popular among builders because they are convenient and quick to work with. The profile length can be easily adjusted using ordinary scissors. You can purchase a metal plaster beacon at any hardware store.

Guides are available in sizes 3, 6 and 10 mm. The appropriate option is selected depending on the unevenness of the wall or ceiling. The greater the curvature of the surface, the wider the profile used.

A metal beacon for plaster has the following advantages:

• low cost;
• easy installation;
• quick setting of the solution, which allows you not to stop work.

Metal guides are characterized not only on the positive side. For example, it is quite common to find finished products with curved geometry due to irregularities in the production process, during transportation or storage. In order not to run into defects, it is recommended to carefully check each guide before purchasing and transport them correctly to their destination.

Another common flaw with metal beacons is the possible formation of rust spots on the surface. They appear after the destruction and oxidation of zinc located on the surface of the guides. After applying the plaster, it is better to remove them immediately.

Aluminum beacons have a fairly flexible structure. To provide them with additional rigidity, you need to first fill the surface with a solution, and then install the guides.

Plastic

This type of beacon is very similar to metal, but heavy-duty plastic is used for their manufacture. The result is parts with less weight and greater strength. It's much easier to work with them.

Plastic beacons are resistant to deformation, their original geometry is well preserved even in conditions of improper transportation. After using the profile, spots and stripes do not appear on surfaces.

Such plaster beacons cannot be installed in places with negative temperatures, as they can crack from frost. It is not recommended to impact them with heavy weight and strong impacts, because the impact resistance of plastic guides is very low.

Improper fastening of the beacon profiles entails their sagging during the process of leveling the plaster, which will ultimately provide unevenness to the coating.

Reusable steel

These guides are expensive because they can be used more than once. Basically, they are used by builders who use beacons constantly.

Reusable steel profiles have increased strength, so there is no need to thoroughly fix them. Galvanized beacons will not bend or lose their original appearance, and the result of plastering the walls will be positive in any case.

Despite the fact that these beacons are convenient to use, they have their drawbacks. Not every person can afford to purchase a reusable steel profile for minor repairs; the high price forces them to choose a different type of beacon.

It is better to remove the steel product before the solution has completely hardened. Otherwise, despite the strength of the profiles, they can be broken.

Homemade

When special guides are not at hand, various devices are used instead. Some use metal pipes or corners. Wooden slats also work very well, but are used less frequently due to their tendency to warp.

Craftsmen often select profiles for drywall as homemade beacons, but then more solution is wasted than in other options.

In construction stores you can easily pick up ready-made beacons for plaster for any repair. However, homemade products are still often used. The process of making them is completely simple, and the costs are minimal.

Strings

Installing string beacons is considered the simplest and cheapest option for using guides for the rule. For placement you will need screws, thread or wire, as well as a drill. First, holes are made for the dowels, then the screws are screwed in, and the thread is tensioned. It is at the level with it that the solution is subsequently applied.

The layer of solution is laid slightly thicker than the surface itself. Next, after the plaster has slightly hardened, the top ball is cut off using a thread. The surface is leveled according to the obtained reference point.

Using string beacons does not come without some drawbacks. If the screws are attached incorrectly, the threads will be tied unevenly, which will then certainly affect the curvature of the walls or ceiling.

The advantages of this method include the low cost of string guides, because wire and thread cost pennies, and almost every home craftsman has self-tapping screws.

By brand

Using this type of plaster beacon is great for one-time repairs. The costs are minimal and installation is very simple.

First, vertical lines are drawn, in which holes are drilled every 40-50 centimeters. After which the screws are screwed in at the same level. Then a slightly larger amount of solution is applied, and the rule is pressed against the screws to remove excess. As soon as the plaster is thoroughly dry, the surface is leveled using a spatula.

Lighthouses by brand have some disadvantages. If the screws are set unevenly, the plane will end up with noticeable deformation. In addition, the work should be carried out very carefully, otherwise the pronounced curvature of the wall and ceiling surface will subsequently be evident.

You can plaster the walls yourself. An important condition is to obtain all the necessary materials and equipment, as well as follow the technology. Beacons should always be removed, regardless of the materials from which they are made. This measure will provide excellent results for a long time.