Finishing the steam room in 3 stages: setting up a branch of hell in our bathhouse!

Lining is a type of lumber that is similar to edged wood. The only difference is the presence of longitudinal grooves, which ensure adhesion of the elements without the formation of gaps. Finishing from lining creates a microclimate in the room suitable for relaxation, while its arrangement does not require experience in finishing, as when working with wood. To obtain the expected result, it is enough to follow the step-by-step instructions and select materials in accordance with accepted rules.

Choosing the wood from which the lining is made

Before sheathing the inside of the bathhouse with clapboard, the owner of the room will have to decide on the type of material and wood. First, there are two types to choose from: regular lining and its Euro version. Finishers often prefer eurolining. The reason is the appropriate length of the groove and a wide ridge, which ensures a tighter fit of the elements than when working with ordinary lining. The eurolining is also equipped with holes for ventilation. Their task is to protect the material from the formation of condensation and subsequent deformation. The service life of such lining is many times longer than that of a conventional one, since the highest grade wood is used for its manufacture.

The finishing of the bathhouse with clapboard is carried out taking into account the specifics of the room - high levels of humidity, temperature changes. These factors are taken into account when selecting wood. Species that release resin when heated are not suitable for this, including most coniferous trees.

The following types of wood are suitable for finishing baths:

1. Alder. Hygroscopic wood with low thermal conductivity. Used for interior decoration in country houses and baths. In addition to the pleasant aroma, the fumes it produces have a beneficial effect on human health. Medium price material. Sold in pieces up to 3 m in length.
2. Oak. This wood is elite and one of the most expensive. Its advantage is that the oak panel does not require additional processing or protective coatings. Oak wood is also considered eternal - the finish will last for decades even with regular use of the steam room, since such wood does not rot. African oak, abash, has similar properties. Its only difference from the usual one is its light brown color and less processing complexity.
3. Aspen. The wood is soft and easy to work with. Over time, its strength increases, the material tolerates high humidity and temperature changes without consequences. The only drawback of aspen lining is that over time its surface becomes dull. To return it to its original appearance, you will have to sand the outer surface of the lining with fine-grained sandpaper.
4. Linden. The material not only looks beautiful and is easy to process, but also emits beneficial fumes when heated. Therefore, linden is one of the traditional materials for finishing both the dressing room and the steam room. The wood is light, with a reddish or brown tint, does not dry out due to changes in humidity and has its own matte shine. The only drawback is the oxidation of iron when interacting with such lining. Metal parts in the steam room or dressing room will have to be coated with special compounds, or their use will have to be abandoned.
5. Cedar. Durable wood in shades from beige to coffee, the color depends on the region where the wood grows. Expensive and resistant to changes in temperature and humidity, it needs to be treated with an antiseptic before use as a finishing material. The disadvantage of cedar lining is the risk that over time the finish will begin to release resin without heating the room.
6. Larch. Coniferous wood with antiseptic properties. Lining made from it becomes stronger when used in rooms with high humidity. Lining is in demand, found everywhere, its price is an order of magnitude lower than that of other types of coniferous species suitable for installation in a steam room.
7. Hemlock. The second name of the tree is Canadian hemlock. It is resistant to temperature changes and increased humidity, and is also much higher in mechanical strength than pine. Like cedar and linden, it releases essential oils beneficial to human health when the room is heated.

Pine is used with reservation. You have to be careful when finishing the inside of the bathhouse with it - the wood releases resin when heated. This substance stains things and sticks skin to wooden surfaces. Can cause burns if heated too much. Therefore, only the dressing room and dressing room are upholstered with pine clapboard, choosing other types of wood for the steam room.

Tile installation technology

If we are talking about laying tiles on the floor, then the floor area is first filled with cement mortar at a slight slope towards the drainage system. The perimeter of the sauna is framed with construction twine. The tilting technology depends on the first tile from which the further floor angle is measured.

When laying, you can use a special tile adhesive, but a prerequisite for ensuring no subsidence is the addition of sand granules

If the tile is laid on a cement-sand mortar, then before laying it is immersed in water for 10 hours.

When installing ceramics on the screen around the furnace, heat-resistant thick glue is used. If the mastic is runny, it is better to make it thicker by adding sand. Wall tiles are laid in rows from bottom to top level.

Regardless of the purpose for which the bathhouse is being built - personal use or business, the task of properly equipping the steam room is considered the main one on the to-do list. Compliance with the necessary standards will guarantee a long, safe, pleasant use of the Russian bath.

Methods for attaching panels to walls

Using nails or self-tapping screws is the traditional option for attaching panels to walls. A more modern method is the use of clamps. It does not damage the panels, but requires additional costs of both time and money when installing the lining.

Using nails or screws

This method will require a screwdriver or hammer, as well as special nails or self-tapping screws - galvanized or made of copper alloy. Such fittings are more expensive, but if you save on them and buy ordinary nails, they will begin to rust over time. This will lead to the appearance of red streaks on the lining, which will spoil the appearance of the finish and stain the skin and things when touched. The fasteners are driven or screwed into the lining tenon at an angle of 45 degrees. The fastening points will have to be sanded so that there are no burrs or other defects left. The disadvantage of this method is that holes will have to be created on the planks when fastening them with nails. And when you try to remove the lining, the fastening points will be further damaged, which precludes the reuse of the panels if necessary.

Fastening with clamps

Do-it-yourself installation using clamps is safe for lining strips because it does not damage them. A clamp is a special bracket that is attached to the lower half of the lining groove - a recess into which the tenon of the next plank is inserted. The fastenings of the bracket are covered with the next strip in the row. Fixing the staples to the sheathing beams is carried out with nails or self-tapping screws.

With this installation method, the lining is not damaged, and there are no nail heads or screws left on the outer surface of the cladding, which eliminates the risk of getting burned or getting a rusty drip on your clothes after visiting such a bathhouse.

It is also easier to partially replace the lining mounted in this way - just pull the boards out of the grooves and pull out the fasteners. If you do not work carefully, it will be the staples that are damaged, not the boards.

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Roof

The truss structures are assembled for convenience on the ground, after which they are raised and secured above their corresponding racks. For convenience, temporary flooring made of 50 mm boards is placed on the beams.

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You should make a ventilated roof to avoid rotting of the rafters. As a rule, corrugated sheeting and ondulin are used as roofing.

Methods for laying lining

Before choosing a method for laying lining, the first thing repair professionals advise to start with is to assess the humidity in the room. If finishing is needed in a steam room, then you should focus on horizontal placement of the slats. Vertical installation is suitable for a dressing room or sauna. This is due to the fact that the “vertical” method has a number of disadvantages:

1. There will not be sufficient air circulation between the foil and the lining; this will lead to the formation of condensation and the development of mold on the inner surface of the trim and the sheathing beams.
2. The finishing below will begin to deteriorate from moisture faster than the upper elements. With a horizontal mounting method, it will be enough to replace the lower strips. If you decide to attach the trim vertically, in the future you will have to trim each plank from below to replace the damaged area.
3. When gaps form between adjacent elements, moisture will get inside and not flow down, as happens when installed horizontally.

The vertical method of attaching planks takes less time, so it is more often used by hired craftsmen. Also, the vertical placement of the lining does not make the room visually lower. Most often, to combine practicality and convenience, two installation methods are used simultaneously. In this case, the lower section of the walls is trimmed with horizontal planks so that, if necessary, they can be easily replaced. And the upper half of the wall is sheathed with vertically arranged boards.

Bathroom finishing options

Waiting room

It is not at all necessary to finish a log bathhouse inside, but oak boards and lining are usually used to decorate a frame bathhouse; the use of a block house will create the effect of a rounded log.

Steam room

This is the main room in the bathhouse, so use only high-quality materials for decoration and carefully consider the layout. For example, combining wood and brick in the interior will look stylish and laconic.

Shower room

It is practical to use tiles to furnish a shower room: they are easy to clean and go well with other facing materials.

Restroom

To decorate the rest room, materials with good thermal insulation are used. For example, wide boards are perfect for flooring; they retain water and retain heat.

Video instruction for interior decoration of a bathhouse with your own hands.

Covering depending on the material of the bath

Covering the bathhouse with clapboard, as well as attaching foil in the steam room, was invented primarily for the purpose of preserving heat inside the room. Additional thermal insulation can be placed under the lining, and the film reflects up to 95% of the heat back into the room, creating the effect of a thermos and reducing the cost of heating a bathhouse or sauna. In order to properly sheathe a bathhouse to solve practical problems, and not to give the room an attractive appearance, you will have to take into account the material from which the structure is made. Some baths do not require additional insulation, others are more capricious and are subject to increased moisture formation. For long-term service of the steam room, you will have to take into account all its features.

Is there a difference between a bathhouse and a sauna?

In a Russian bath, the temperature is maintained below 100 degrees, but the air humidity reaches 70%. The Finnish version of the steam room, the sauna, is characterized by dry air, but at the same time its increased temperature. Therefore, it is allowed to use the vertical method of laying lining in the sauna, but you should avoid using coniferous wood in the finishing. The Russian bathhouse is less capricious in the choice of material, but requires more careful installation of the finishing - horizontally with the possibility of replacing several planks if necessary.

Finishing a brick or block bath

Such a bathhouse is sheathed from the inside not only to give it the appropriate style, but also for the purpose of additional insulation, as well as to comply with the requirements of the law on silence. First, they install the sheathing, between the rods of which insulation is laid - mineral wool or ecowool. After this, the foil is installed on top and a counter-lattice is made. The lining is attached to the slats of the latter.

It is advisable to cover such a bathhouse with clapboards on the outside, but such finishing is carried out at the request of the owner. If you make external cladding and place insulation underneath it, you won’t have to lay mineral wool on the inside - just install a vapor barrier, a counter-lattice and secure the lining to the walls and ceiling.

Frame building

The walls in such a bath are made in the form of a “sandwich” of two boards or panels, between which insulation is placed. If the thickness and material of the insulation are selected correctly, additional thermal insulation for such a bath will not be required. In this case, it is enough to install the sheathing, attach the foil to it, mount the counter-lattice and install the lining panels.

If the thermal insulation of a frame bath is poor, you will have to additionally cover it with insulation either outside or inside under the lining. In the future, you have to foil and decorate the bathhouse according to the generally accepted algorithm.

Do you need cladding for a wooden bath?

A bathhouse made of wood does not need additional cladding, because initially it contains the most suitable material for such a room, and the appearance is preserved as traditional as possible. The exception is situations when the owner of a wooden bathhouse did not calculate the thickness of the walls and the room turned out to be too cold. A wooden bathhouse will also have to be lined with clapboard if you plan to lay foil in order to create a “thermos” in the steam room and reduce heating costs.

What to do with a log house

The expediency of finishing a log house is similar to a bathhouse made of boards. But in a log house it is more difficult to install sheathing and lay insulation due to the unevenness of the walls. Even before foiling or finishing such a bathhouse, you will have to carefully caulk it and seal all the cracks.

What to do with the stove?

Installation of furnace equipment also applies to internal finishing work. Installation instructions and recommendations are published on the websites of stove manufacturers. As a rule, it is necessary to install a mineralite slab along the entire perimeter of the walls located next to the stove. It looks like this:

Very often we install stoves with a remote firebox, that is, the stove itself with a heater is in the sauna, and the firebox goes through the wall into the next room or even onto the street. In this case, we recommend making brickwork.

Only stoves of a certain design that are suitable for this can be covered with clapboard:

The brick around the firebox looks like this:

Step-by-step guide to covering a bathhouse with film and clapboard

Sheathing begins with calculating the amount of materials and choosing one of them. Aluminum foil is used as a vapor barrier and heat repellent. This material is not recommended for use in residential premises, as it emits substances that are unsafe for humans in large quantities. But people visit a bathhouse or sauna for several hours and not every day. Therefore, there will be no harm from such finishing. In addition, the foil section will be hidden in the wall by the final finishing - clapboard.

The creation of sheathing and installation of heat insulation begins after the installation of all communications and ventilation is completely completed.

The lining is chosen with a thickness of 12.5 mm, a working width of about ten cm. The length of the panel ranges from 2 to 6 m, depending on the width of the wall. Or its height if vertical laying of panels is planned.

Initially, a sheathing is created, insulation is laid and a vapor barrier is installed. After this, holes are cut in the insulation opposite the ventilation windows. Upon completion of these manipulations, they proceed to laying the lining in the chosen method.

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Protection from moisture and heat loss

Before finishing the room, it will have to be protected from condensation and heat loss. For this:

1. Film waterproofing is installed or a special composition with similar properties is applied to the wall. The vapor barrier film is fixed using nails on wooden walls or slats on stone and brick walls.
2. Install the timber sheathing. The pitch between the axes should be equal to the size of the piece of heat-insulating material. The height should be equal to the thickness of the insulation.
3. Place the insulation in the recesses of the sheathing with an overlap of 1 cm.
4. Foil is attached to the lathing slats. Its pieces are placed overlapping, the joints are taped with aluminum tape. To fix the film, they often choose either small nails or a construction stapler.
5. A counter-lattice is attached over the lathing slats and the foil fixed on them. It follows the contours of the first sheathing and creates a gap between the foil and the finishing.

At this stage, the main thing is not to confuse the aluminum film with the vapor barrier foil, which protects the insulation from the formation of condensation on the wall of the building. If you neglect this step, the insulation will become damp due to contact with cold air from outside after the walls freeze. A damp insulator will become a breeding ground for mold and harmful bacteria.

Ventilation

After installing the insulation, ventilation holes are cut in it according to the size of the ventilation windows existing in the room. Initially, it is recommended to make one hole under the ceiling of the bathhouse, and another one at the bottom. This approach ensures better air circulation and rapid removal of excess moisture after bath procedures. It is best to force air circulation in the bathhouse, that is, install not only a shaft, but also a fan on it to blow through the rooms.

Creating a sheathing

Lathing over the foil should not damage the film. Therefore, it is advisable to clean the slats in advance from burrs and knots, and also to file the corners on them at 45 degrees. When installing the lathing in a steam room or dressing room, you will have to follow a number of rules:

• The batten should not reach another wall or ceiling. Otherwise, when heated, the wood will expand, which will lead to swelling of the entire counter-lattice mesh.
• Installation of the sheathing is carried out level, if thermal insulation has not been completed before. When using insulation, a level is not needed - the bottom sheathing is already installed in compliance with the geometry of the room.
• When installing the sheathing on the ceiling, you can use hangers - metal pins that are fixed to the ceiling. Their use makes it possible to artificially lower the ceiling in the bathhouse and reduce the cost of heating the room during operation. Suspensions are also installed by level; due to the specifics of the room, you need to choose those that are not susceptible to rust - aluminum, galvanized, etc.
• The optimal lathing pitch is 50 cm, this distance is enough to fix the lining. If the previous sheathing is wider than the required distance, you will have to add additional strips. In this case, they will have to be fixed only in the corners to the previous sheathing, and not to the insulation.
• For fastening the counter-lattice, self-tapping screws or stainless steel nails 9-10 cm long are best suited. Drive them in so that the heads are flush with the board. If you ignore this step, you won’t be able to lay the lining evenly because the caps will get in the way.

It is better to drive the fasteners at an angle from top to bottom, and not perpendicular to the wall. This approach ensures that the wood remains in place even as it expands due to heat.

Fastening the lining

Before attaching to the walls and ceiling, the lining panels will need to be properly processed. Preparation includes:

1. Trimming the lining to the required size. Initially, the panel length is up to 6 m; few people will need such a large panel even with horizontal installation. The planks are cut with a jigsaw, the edges are polished so that there are no burrs or nicks.
2. Drilling holes for self-tapping screws or fixing clamps. During installation, this will be more difficult to do, since you will have to be distracted by processing each panel, rather than installing them on the walls using the designer’s method.

After preparation is completed, the lining is laid in the chosen method. In this case, you will have to follow a number of rules:

1. The gap to the floor should be about 2 cm. When fixing the lining to the ceiling, you need the same distance from the walls.
2. You will have to cut off the ridge from the first plank, which is inserted into the groove. With the cut section, it is turned towards the nearest wall, the installation of the next plank is carried out in the groove of the first. The first plank is fixed against the wall with self-tapping screws, regardless of the chosen method of fastening.
3. When using clamps and fixing them to the sheathing with mounting brackets, they must be driven in at an angle.
4. The groove and that part of the main width that prevents the insertion of the lining into the space remaining between the adjacent plank and the wall are cut off from the final plank.

For better fixation when working, you can use a wooden or rubber mallet. The blows of this tool will ensure better adhesion of the panels to the sheathing, but will not damage the lining, unlike metal products.

Thermal requirements for a bathhouse building

The bathhouse building must warm up quickly and retain heat for a long time, but at the same time use fuel economically. Such conflicting requirements force builders to think carefully about solving the problem. Fuel for the stove must be high-calorie. All heat produced must remain indoors. All routes for its leakage must be blocked.

From the point of view of a heating engineer, heat in a bathhouse is distributed by convection (the movement of hot air), heat transfer (from one heated body to another with close contact) and infrared rays (low-frequency electromagnetic waves).

Foil is proposed as a heat reflector (infrared transmission) back into the bathhouse. But the foil itself turns out to be shielded from the stove, and infrared rays almost do not reach it. So it reflects only a small fraction of the heat produced by the stove. But foil, when laid correctly, can cover all the cracks and prevent hot air from escaping. The joints of the foil sheets are glued with special foil tape. It is also good.

PHOTO: stroy-banya.comUsing foil as a heat-reflecting surface

Additional protection - special compounds and impregnations

Wood is a pleasant-smelling, natural material, which, in addition, gives the bathhouse the appropriate atmosphere of a rustic steam room. Using wood clapboard simplifies the procedure for finishing a bathhouse, and also saves material and costs - covering the walls and ceiling with clapboard will ultimately be cheaper than making a bathhouse from wood or covering it with untreated boards. But the finished finish has a significant drawback - without treatment with waterproofing compounds it will not last long: moisture passes through the connecting seams, settles in the grooves, reaches the vapor barrier material, accumulates on it and provokes the development of mold. To avoid this, you will have to treat the walls, floor and ceiling after finishing with a waterproofing solution.

Protective impregnation will extend the service life of both the finish and the bath itself. The main thing when applying it is to read the manufacturer’s instructions on the packaging and act in accordance with the algorithms specified therein. The safest and most effective waterproofing agents for baths are those containing wax. Water-based impregnations can also be used.

How and with what materials to decorate the pros and cons of natural and artificial

If a sauna or bath is considered, the most worthy materials are considered to be the following:

— lining;

- tile;

- stone.

Many people have a desire to use natural materials. The following advantages are noted:

- environmental friendliness;

- nice smell.

Minuses:

- scarce types of lining;

- a large percentage of defects.

There is a need to cover the bathhouse with artificial materials, it is also important to remember the advantages:

- high quality;

- durability.

Minuses:

- not a pleasant smell;

- cheap look.

Thus, natural and artificial options have many advantages and disadvantages.

Rules for visual inspection of boards and assessment of their condition

The following must be taken into account:

Pay attention to the quality of the chips. The boards must have a flat and smooth surface. This directly affects the economic benefits of finishing work. If the front side of the lining is rough, finishing will be complicated by the increased consumption of antiseptic and paint materials. The moisture content of the boards should not exceed 12-16% (GOST requirement). It is visually impossible to determine whether the material offered by the manufacturer meets this criterion. Therefore, it is necessary to request documents confirming compliance with GOST. If the wood is not dry enough, there is a high risk that it will suffer during the first years of operation of the finished premises. Pay attention to the depth and evenness of the groove. These indicators determine the quality of installation

And it doesn’t matter how it will be done: using clamps, nails or staples. If the groove is shallow, there will be nothing for the fasteners to grab onto.

An important characteristic of boards is width. Often there are lamellas on sale that are wider than standard ones (more than 88 mm) and managers assure that it is more profitable to buy such lining. This is not true, since such a finish will be less durable and there is a high risk of wide boards bending when exposed to moisture.

Features of arranging a steam room

When building a steam room with your own hands, you must adhere to the following recommendations.

Selection of oven

The main parameters on which the operation of the device depends are: the number of stones and the duration of their heating, the heat resistance of the body, the grate material, the power consumption of the unit and its design. To provide heat, in addition to the steam room, to adjacent rooms with a total area of ​​22 square meters, a power of 24 kW is sufficient. Making a stove with your own hands will reduce the cost of arranging a bathhouse.

Choosing a stove is an important matter

Floor covering

The best solution for flooring materials would be to use porcelain tiles or natural stone. For safe movement, a boardwalk is laid. Thermal insulation of the floor is not required. In this case, one of the requirements for the floor is the installation of a hole for draining water. Wood as a flooring material is not the best option, since high humidity will lead to its deformation and rapid failure.

Ceiling

For a ceiling, a sufficient height is 2.2 m, which is due to the physical properties of steam and human physiology. If the ceiling height exceeds the specified value, will the steam rise? and the effect of its influence will be lost. Reducing the height will lead to discomfort during bath procedures, as there will be a risk of head injury and difficulties will arise when working with a broom.

Windows and doors

Window organization is not a requirement.

Wood or glass are the best material options for making doors. If a wooden door is tradition, then glass is practical.

Selecting a steam source and determining a location for the furnace

An important factor when choosing a stove is the method of generating steam, the energy source and the size of the steam room.

The traditional fuel is wood, but both electricity and gas can be used. There are several types of ovens.

Wood burning

Installing such a stove will provide a unique atmosphere in the bathhouse. Even the fact that such a device requires periodic cleaning of soot from the stones cannot spoil the pleasure of taking a bath procedure. To reduce the formation of soot, aspen wood should be used as fuel. To maintain a stable temperature, it is necessary to constantly monitor the combustion process.

Steam room with wood stove

Electric

The electric heater is very easy to use. Such an electrical appliance is compact, has sufficient power and allows you to quickly reach the required temperature. Its device does not require the organization of a chimney.

The electric heater is safe for the environment and humans, its maintenance is simplified as much as possible due to the use of automation, and its design features eliminate the possibility of injury. The main disadvantage of the device is its significant energy consumption.

Electric heater

Gas

The use of a gas furnace is characterized by ease of operation, high heating speed and maintenance of the set temperature in the steam room. A significant disadvantage of this device is the dimensions of the furnace and the significant need of the device for gas. The use of a furnace of this type is impractical if there is no connection to the gas main.

Types of heaters

The stove can be open or closed.

There are different types of heaters

In the case when several people plan to take bath procedures, the best choice would be an open type of heater. The firebox (the place where the fuel is burned) does not have fireproof masonry. It serves as a place for laying stones. This arrangement of the stove allows you to heat all the rooms of the bathhouse and allow the stones to heat up.

When exposed to water, heaters with such a device quickly lose temperature. This design is used in furnaces with electric heating.

A closed heater is a traditional way of constructing a Russian bath. At the same time, a large number of stones are located in a specially designated area of ​​the furnace. In this case, the steam exits through a special door, the level of which is located opposite the stones of the first row. This door must remain closed during fuel combustion. To warm up the steam room, open it in advance.

Types of suitable insulation materials

In our opinion, it makes sense to divide the types of thermal insulation materials for baths into sheet, roll and backfill. In addition, there are insulation materials that are applied to the walls in the form of foam or a moistened mass - these are polyurethane foam and ecowool, which are sprayed using special equipment.

Mineral wool can be purchased in rolls or sheets. It all depends on its density and the binders used.

BY THE WAY! We rarely name specific brands, but do you understand that the names Rockwool or Isover hide the same mineral wool produced by different companies?

Basalt wool is a type of mineral wool, a literal reference to the similar mineral used. There is practically no difference.

Basalt wool for baths

But you should not confuse mineral wool and glass wool - these are different insulation materials, made of different materials and with different properties.

Glass wool should no longer be used anywhere, because it is extremely unpleasant for humans - if it gets on the skin, it causes itching, and is hazardous to health if it gets into the eyes or respiratory organs. Yes, and fiberglass crumbles during operation, turns into dust, and it penetrates through the cracks, and you breathe it.

Does not like fiberglass insulation and elevated temperatures typical of a bathhouse.

Polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam are good insulation materials, especially the latter, but using them in a bathhouse is dangerous. They are absolutely not suitable for a steam room, but could (theoretically) be used in other rooms, but we will not recommend them, since they are a fire hazard.

ADVICE! In the bathhouse, polystyrene foam and penoplex can be used in floors under concrete screed - there they do not pose any danger.

So, sheet insulation is mineral wool, foam glass (excellent, but expensive insulation), calcium silicate and magnesium silicate sheets, non-recommended polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene.

Foam glass

Roll insulation is again mineral wool (lower density), glass wool. foamed polyethylene, with or without foil (penofol, isolon, etc.).

We have already spoken about fiberglass, now about foamed polyethylene. It is often used as additional insulation in residential buildings, but polyethylene does not tolerate high temperatures, so it should not be used instead of foil to insulate a steam room.

Foil insulation Penofol

IMPORTANT! Polyethylene already melts at a temperature of one hundred degrees. By the way, it supports combustion.. In general, it is quite possible to insulate other rooms of the bathhouse with it (as a second layer)

In general, it is quite possible to insulate other rooms of the bathhouse with it (as a second layer).

We will divide bulk insulation for baths into those that can be moistened and “glued” to the wall, and those that cannot. Expanded clay and vermiculite belong to the second category, ecowool - to the first.

Expanded clay and vermiculite can be used to insulate floors and ceilings, where they adhere perfectly and retain heat indoors. In order to insulate the walls of a bathhouse with them, it is necessary that between the two layers of the main wall material there is a gap, a cavity that can be filled with insulation.

Expanded clay

Ecowool is waste paper (cellulose) crushed into dust, impregnated with fire retardants so that it does not support combustion. And it really doesn’t support it - this is a good material for insulating baths where it is on sale. Ecowool is used in dry and wet form. In dry conditions - for insulating floors and ceilings, as well as for filling cavities. When wet - for application to walls.

Insulating the roof with ecowool using the wet method. Cromwell Photos

Also on our website you can read two articles that provide a more complete overview of insulation materials that can be used in a bathhouse:

• review of bath insulation;
• choosing the best of natural and artificial insulation for a bath.