How to make a floor in a bathhouse in a washing room with a drain

In the construction of small bathhouses for private use today, few strictly adhere to the canons of their traditional construction. Sometimes the boundaries between different types of baths are so blurred that it is difficult to clearly determine its type. It is not blind adherence to standards that prevails, but the creation of a comfortable structure that meets individual needs and, often, multifunctional. More than half of all baths are now equipped with universal steam rooms, in which you can carry out procedures with both “wet” steam, like Russian baths, and “dry” steam, like Finnish saunas. But for whipping with a broom or washing, soap (washing) stations are provided next door through the wall. They can be equipped with massage beds, regular and shock showers, washstands, plunge pools, and even small swimming pools. Such a functional arrangement raises a number of questions about how to make the floor in a bathhouse sink of one or another workable structure.

How to make a floor in a washing bath - preparing drainage and materials

Before starting construction, you need to determine the type of future floor drain, as well as where and how exactly to install it:

The most convenient, but difficult to implement on your own option is to drain it into a general drainage system or sewer system. With this option, the drain volume is not limited. It is quite difficult to connect a drainpipe to a general sewer system, but the volume of wastewater will not be limited.
Installation of a septic tank on the site. It is installed only by specialists. This is an element of local treatment equipment, but its volume must be taken into account in advance when designing. It can fill with water quite quickly. However, this is the easiest way to install it yourself near a bathhouse.
Discharge of water into the ground near a reservoir. But when using chemical detergents, this method should not be used without first purifying the water.

So, the floor in the bathhouse sink should not only take into account high-quality and safe drainage. Floors must withstand not only large amounts of water, but also temperature changes. Also – the constant ingress of cosmetics and chemicals and the heavy weight of bath equipment.

Bathroom floors in the steam room and sink must be constructed so that they last a long time and are wear-resistant. Required conditions:

The floor must be built at an angle so that water flows by gravity to the openings of the drainpipes.
The floor covering must be made non-slip and not too smooth. It's simply dangerous.
Multilayer waterproof coating.
Carry out additional insulation of the concrete floor.

Main types of bath floors

First, it’s worth understanding what floor designs can, in principle, be installed in a bathhouse, and what material they are made of. There are not so many suitable options, since the specific microclimate has a very negative effect on most materials. In addition, the finishing of premises designed for constant high humidity and sudden temperature changes must be environmentally friendly and not emit toxic substances.

Therefore, today the floors in bathhouses are still made of wood or concrete. An innovation in the design is the possibility of organizing heated surfaces using modern “warm floor” systems.

Wooden floors

Be that as it may, wooden floors are still traditional for Russian baths. They were made in this building from time immemorial - they have not lost any of their relevance today. The only thing that many bathhouse owners add to the usual wooden structure is their insulation with such modern material as extruded polystyrene foam.

From time immemorial, the Russian tradition has been the creation of wooden bath floors

It makes sense to say a few words about the material that is chosen for arranging a wooden floor. Due to the fact that the floor covering will be constantly exposed to moisture, it is advisable to choose hardwood for the floor of bath rooms, which absorbs less moisture, since it has a dense structural structure. These species include oak, larch or alder.

Oak boards are quite expensive and not so easy to find, so the best option would be a board made of larch or alder. Both have good wear resistance and low hygroscopicity. Although we note here that this wood is also not cheap, so many bathhouse owners prefer pine boards as the most affordable material. But the durability of such coatings is not outstanding.

Boards used for laying bath floors: a – oak; b – alder; c – larch; g – pine.

For a leaking floor, choose a flat board without grooves or tenons. And for a non-leaking structure, it is better to purchase tongue-and-groove boards, since only they, if well adjusted during installation, can create an almost airtight coating.

Despite the fact that the wood will be in a room with high humidity, it must initially be well dried, otherwise the board may “lead” after laying, and the floors will begin to deform.

The recommended board thickness for making floorboards varies from 25 to 40 mm. The selected thickness parameter will determine the step at which the logs should be installed to secure the finished plank flooring. The thicker the board, the greater the distance between the lags. So, under a 25 mm board it is necessary to lay logs in increments of up to 400 mm, and if a board 40 mm thick is chosen, then the distance between the logs can be increased to 600÷700 mm.

Prices for edged boards

edged board

So, wooden floors can be of two types, which differ in their design - a leaky and non-leaky floor.

Leaking wooden floor

This type of floor is designed in such a way that it does not retain moisture on its surface. To do this, a gap is left between the boards that form the surface, through which water flows out.

Wooden floor is a leaky type - water does not linger on the surface, but immediately flows through the cracks between the floorboards into the drainage

A leaky floor can be arranged approximately according to this scheme:

One of the options for arranging a leaky floor in a bathhouse

1 - Log wall of the bathhouse. 2 – Skirting screen, protecting the lower part of the walls and corners of the room from direct water. Made from boards. 3 – Drainage backfill consisting of crushed stone and gravel. 4 – Drainage pit for water drainage, filled with crushed stone and gravel mixture or waste construction materials (for example, broken bricks, pieces of concrete, etc.) 5 – Plank flooring for a leaking floor. 6 – Bases for plank planks . This option shows laid asbestos-cement. Instead, concrete or brick pillars can be installed as supports. 7 – Cut-off waterproofing between the plinth and the lower crown of the wall. 8 – Bathhouse foundation, columnar, pile or strip. 9 – A compacted clay layer that redirects water spilled from above into the drainage pit (ditch).

The arrangement of the underground space of leaking floors can be done in different ways, using different materials:

Previously, there was usually no special drainage area under the floor. The water from the bathhouse was drained directly into the ground. Therefore, the building itself was necessarily raised above ground level by at least 200 mm, usually on a columnar foundation. And the bathhouse was built, if possible, on a slope so that moisture would not linger under it.
Another system for draining water from the underground is shown in the diagram above. Under leaking floors there is a kind of drainage made of gravel and/or crushed stone. Water flowing down through the cracks in the floor is distributed in the backfill and slowly goes into the ground. If a compacted clay castle is made, then penetration does not occur over the entire area - excess water gradually flows into the drainage hole. Due to the fact that the underground has the ability to ventilate, some of the moisture simply evaporates. This is facilitated by internal channels and drilled holes in the asbestos concrete pipes that support the wooden flooring.
If the bathhouse is built on sandy soil, then there will be no problems with water drainage, since it drains perfectly into the sand, and it will always be dry under the building.
If the soil on the site is difficult for water to pass through, then under the floor you can dig a pit 300–400 mm deep, which is filled with sand. This option can be called the simplest in design. But with frequent use of the bathhouse, such drainage gradually begins to become swampy, and it is better not to consider this approach as a serious measure.

Scheme with concreting the surface of the underground and draining water into a drainage pit.

A more complex underground design for a leaking floor involves collecting and draining water into a drainage hole located at a certain distance from the bathhouse, or into a drainage trench (ditch). In order to organize this version of a bath floor with a drain, the first step is to dig a foundation pit whose walls are located at an angle and converge towards its central part. Then the slopes are covered with crushed stone, which is well compacted. After this, reinforcing mesh is laid on the crushed stone. Next, the slopes are concreted (item 1). In the central part of the underground, along its entire width or length, also using concreting, a gutter is created (item 2), into which water that has leaked through the floor will flow down the inclined walls. Instead of a gutter, a concrete pit can also be installed in the center or offset to one of the edges, which is connected by a sewer pipe (item 3) to the drainage system (pit). The pipe is given the required slope (usually 5 cm per linear meter of length), and water flows down it by simple overflow.

And already above the concrete inclined base there are support pillars (item 4). Through the mandatory cut-off waterproofing (item 5), beams or joists (item 6) are laid on them, along which the plank bath floor (item 7) is laid with a gap between adjacent boards of approximately 5 mm.

If there is a desire to somewhat reduce the cost and speed up the process of arranging underground drainage, then the concrete can be replaced with a well-compacted clay covering. Compacted clay does not allow moisture to pass through well, so water will flow down such walls into a pit, and then into a drainage hole. But in this case there will certainly be more dirt.

Wooden leaking floor in the steam room.

Now that the underground space and water drainage scheme have been organized, you can proceed to the formation of the floor itself. Its design consists of three layers:

- these are the floor beams of the underground space (beams or logs);

- logs laid on the floor beams, perpendicular to them (sometimes the logs are not mounted, they are limited to the beams if they are located with a small step);

- plank flooring, the boards of which are fixed to logs (beams).

A gap of at least 5 mm is left between individual floorboards.

These gaps are necessary for free flow of water downwards. And the width of the gap is chosen taking into account the possible swelling of the wood when it is constantly waterlogged.

Some bathhouse owners make the leaking floor removable in order to ensure that the covering boards can be taken outside for ventilation and drying from time to time. If this option is chosen, it would be advisable to mount several boards from logs and boards, with such dimensions that carrying them to the flooring site and back to the street would not be particularly difficult. These panels are laid on top of the floor beams, but are not secured to them.

The advantages of this design include the ease of installation, as well as the relatively low costs of its arrangement.

The most obvious disadvantage of leaking floors is that the bathhouse can be fully used only during the warm season or in regions with moderate winter temperatures. In the winter cold, bathhouses will quickly become cold, and heating them requires a large amount of fuel. And catching a cold in such a bathhouse, with a possible cold draft from below, costs nothing.

Prices for timber

timber

Leak-proof wooden bath floor design

The design of a non-leakage floor involves arranging a boardwalk underneath with a slope to allow water to drain away. At the lowest point of this slope, there is either a gutter connected to a drainage pipe, or a drain is installed in the form of an opening covered with a grate (ladder).

The flooring boards are laid directly on the beams covering the space of the bathhouse, if insulation of the floors is not planned.

If the floor is insulated (and this is very important for a bathhouse), then the structure is assembled from several layers - these are floor beams, subfloor, insulation and a finished plank covering.

To ensure the tightest possible fit, floorboards are usually made from tongue and groove boards

The boards in the construction of a non-leaking floor should be fitted to each other as closely as possible. Therefore, as a rule, a tongue-and-groove board is chosen for flooring, which will guarantee the “tightness” of the flooring. This is especially important if it is planned to lay insulating material under the coating.

Non-leakage floor covering in the bathhouse. The drain for draining water into the sewer is clearly visible.

In addition, it is very important in this design to correctly calculate the slope of the floor. Water should flow well through it, but we must not forget about the comfort and safety of the people who will take bath procedures. Moreover, water and soap can make the surface slippery. Typically, a finished floor slope of 50 mm per linear meter of length is sufficient, which is, respectively, 5% or about 3 degrees in angular terms.

Drain hole located in the middle part of the floor. The slope is organized towards it from all sides.

— To make it easier to form a slope, you can use a board or timber, cut at the desired angle and secured to the subfloor boards. These elements will become a kind of lags for laying a continuous finished floor.

Prices for drain pipes

a drain pipe

A drain pipe with a ladder passed through the subfloor before laying the insulation.

— In the designated location, a hole is cut in the subfloor to install a drain pipe with a drain. The drain hole itself should be located at the lowest point of the floor slope or in its center, if the floor slope is provided in this direction.

- The next step is to lay insulation boards between the joists on the subfloor - usually extruded polystyrene foam is used for this purpose, since it is not afraid of moisture. All gaps remaining between the joists and the insulation, as well as around the drain pipe, must be filled with foam.

— Then, a waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation, which is sewn to the joists with staples driven in with a stapler, and slipped under the frame of the drain hole.

— The edges of the waterproofing material must be raised onto the walls to a height of 150÷200 mm and secured with brackets.

— The plank flooring is being installed, with the floorboards fitting as tightly as possible. At the same time, they try to use hidden fastening technology so that the heads of fasteners (nails or screws) are completely hidden (this is very important for a bathhouse).

— The joints of the drainage ladder parts with the finished floor boards must be treated with silicone sealant.

— Then, the walls of the room are sheathed so that the waterproofing attached to them remains under the sheathing.

— At the final stage, the floor around the entire perimeter is framed with a plinth, which should also be located at an angle so that water falling on the walls flows down them onto the floors.

Wooden bath floors are not painted or varnished; they can be impregnated with drying oil or natural oils, which are applied in two or three layers.

The advantages of a leak-proof wooden bath floor include the following qualities:

Possibility of creating an insulated structure.
Possibility of using the bath at any time of the year.
Creating the most favorable microclimate in bathhouses.
Wood itself is a warm material, so bathhouse visitors will be comfortable in the room.

The disadvantages of a wooden floor of this design include the following:

If the lumber is insufficiently processed, as well as in the absence or improperly organized ventilation, the floors may begin to rot or become covered with dark spots of mold along the edges.
Wooden floors still cannot compete with concrete coverings in their durability.

Concrete floors in the bathhouse

Concrete floors in the bathhouse are also a fairly popular option. But their arrangement will require serious financial costs and will take a lot of time. But, having done them once, you can be sure that the structure will last 30-40 years without repair. However, in order for a concrete floor to last such a long time, it must be equipped according to all the rules, using high-quality materials.

If you decide to make the floors in the bathhouse concrete, you need to know what positive and negative qualities they have.

As mentioned above, concrete coating is the most durable compared to all others.
The material is not subject to rotting and is resistant to moisture.
Once installed, a concrete floor does not require any special maintenance.
A wide variety of concrete cladding with decorative materials is available.
It is possible to install a water or electric “warm floor” system under the screed or under the facing tiles.

The disadvantages of concrete pavements include:

This design will cost much more than wooden floors.
The process of arranging the coating is more labor-intensive and time-consuming, since you will have to wait for the concrete to mature before moving on to its finishing and further operation.

Wooden gratings on a concrete floor covered with ceramic tiles. Such gratings can be regularly taken out into the air for ventilation and drying.

If you do not use the “warm floor” system, the floors in the bathhouse will turn out cold, even if there is insulation material. Therefore, it is necessary to install wooden gratings on top of concrete or tiles.
Concrete floors require a decorative coating, otherwise the floors will look unattractive.

The installation of concrete floors is carried out in several stages:

— The first step is to install a sewer pipe into the bathhouse, which will drain the spent water. Its vertical pipe should rise above the other preparatory layers. — The surface of the earthen floor is leveled and thoroughly compacted. Sometimes it is necessary to carry out additional soil removal, since it is necessary to arrange sand and crushed stone (gravel) “pillows” under the concrete screed. — The next step is to pour a sand cushion 100÷1501 mm thick onto the earthen floor, which will serve as a good waterproofing layer. The sand must be well compacted. A layer of crushed stone or coarse gravel of the same thickness is laid on top of the sand, which also must be thoroughly compacted. - To insulate the floor, you can use bulk materials - the same expanded clay. It is distributed in the required layer over the sand and gravel backfill.

Cement prices

cement

The bath floor is insulated with expanded clay. Metal guides-beacons are clearly visible, which set the slope of the floor planes converging to the drain hole.

Extruded polystyrene foam is also quite suitable for insulation. From his slabs a continuous covering of the entire floor area is cut out. If small gaps or gaps remain (for example, around the perimeter of the room or around the sewer pipe), they are filled with polyurethane foam.

— It is recommended to waterproof the insulation material on top. To do this, the thermal insulation stand is covered with thick polyethylene film, roofing felt or any modern waterproofing material. The sheets of waterproofing material are laid overlapping and hermetically sealed together with moisture-resistant adhesive tape or bitumen mastic. The canvases should be placed on the walls 100÷150 mm higher than the future screed.

— Then a reinforcing metal mesh is laid on top of the waterproofing layer.

Bath floor with installed thermal insulation and installed beacons - before and after pouring the concrete screed

- After this, metal beacons are placed on the floor surface, which should not only set the thickness of the future screed, but at the same time create the necessary slope of the surface to organize water drainage. Beacons are mounted from the drainage hole in the form of rays, diverging towards the walls, or in parallel with a slope towards one of the walls, if a linear collection of water is organized in the form of a gutter.

— Both with and without insulation, before pouring the solution along the entire perimeter of the future screed, a damper tape is attached to the lower part of the walls. This material is necessary to maintain the integrity of the concrete monolith during expansion under the influence of rising temperatures.

— Now you can pour concrete mortar and level its surface along the beacons. Leveling is carried out using building regulations, taking measures to compact the concrete as much as possible so as not to leave air cavities in its thickness.

— The leveled screed will completely harden and gain brand strength no earlier than in a month. Finishing work, if planned, can begin in about two weeks.

It is advisable not to disturb the poured floor for the first 10 days - only periodically moisten it abundantly for better maturation of the concrete

— Further, if you plan to cover the floors with ceramic tiles, then the surface of the screed is treated with a deep penetration primer, which is applied in one or two layers. — After the primer has dried, you can cover the floors with ceramic tiles.

The most common option for finishing a concrete floor in a bathhouse is lining it with ceramic tiles

— Today, many owners of bathhouses under construction additionally equip their floors with heating systems. Most often, an electric “warm floor” is chosen - cable or using infrared rod mats. It is much easier to install it, and for this it is better to choose those varieties that can be laid directly under the ceramic coating.

Prices for ceramic tiles

ceramic tile

Heating mats with cables on a mesh base can be laid directly during the ceramic tile flooring process.

Water heating involves connection to a heating system. That is, it can only be resorted to if the bathhouse is located either directly in the house, or in an adjacent extension, or is located in close proximity, where pipes from the heating circuit can be installed without difficulties and large heat losses. And the contour of the warm floor itself will have to be laid before the screed is poured.

“Warm floor” is extremely comfortable!
But it will take a lot of work! Before you begin such a task, you need to read the instructions to really assess your capabilities. The publications on our portal dedicated to the independent creation of a water “warm floor” - the most complex to implement, and an electric “warm floor” for ceramic tiles - here the task still looks simpler can help you with this.

How to cover the concrete surface of a bath floor?

Concrete floors in bathhouses can simply become “iron.” That is, dry cement is rubbed into the wet surface of the screed and left as is. Quite primitive, short-lived, and “smacks of a public bathhouse,” whatever you say. This type of floor will require wooden gratings, as it will be cold and unpleasant for bare feet.

A much higher quality, durable and simply beautiful option for finishing a concrete floor is ceramic tiles, which have all the qualities necessary for rooms with high humidity. In order for the tile to serve for a long time without the need for repairs, it is necessary to make high-quality masonry.

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor - can you master it yourself?
Of course, it is possible if you are careful and strictly follow the recommendations of the technological instructions. And you can find such instructions by following the recommended link to the article on our portal “How to lay tiles on the floor” .

When choosing ceramic tiles for tiling bath floors, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of its surface. In the bathhouse, the mole can be wet and slippery from soap or shampoo. Therefore, you should not choose facing material with a smooth surface, as the likelihood of falling and getting injured increases many times over.

For floors in bath rooms, it is recommended to use tiles with a textured rough surface

Today on sale it is not difficult to find floor tiles with a textured surface that suits their color and pattern and do not have a glazed coating. This ceramic lining practically does not slip, even when wet.

Another material option that can be used for laying concrete floors is a wood-polymer decking board, the so-called decking. This material has numerous advantages and qualities that are perfect for bath rooms,

Terrace boards - decking - will serve perfectly as a moisture-resistant, foot-friendly and quite attractive covering for a concrete floor.

The positive qualities of such flooring include:

Environmentally friendly material that does not contain formaldehyde, lead and other toxic additives.
Absolute moisture resistance. The service life of decking boards, even in harsher outdoor conditions, is at least 30 years.
The material has high resistance to temperatures from -60 to 80 degrees.
The boards have a well-designed textured surface, making it very difficult to accidentally slip on them.
There is a fairly wide range of shades on sale. The color of the coating does not change under the influence of an aggressive environment.
The material is hygienic, as it is not a favorable environment for the growth of mold or pathogenic bacteria.
The board can be easily cut to any size and is very easy to install. Its weight is small, and the flooring can be taken out into the fresh air for ventilation without much effort.
The material is “warm” to the touch and can fully replace plank flooring.

Decking can be laid with boards on top of a concrete floor, or used in a leaky construction of bath floors, replacing a regular board with it.

Easy-to-assemble sections of garden parquet – why not cover a concrete bath floor?

Garden parquet - this covering option can also be used for laying on the concrete floor of a bathhouse, which has a drain. The material has all the qualities of a wood-polymer decking board and has a very aesthetic appearance. The convenience of this material is that, if necessary, the slabs can be very quickly dismantled, for example, for the convenience of cleaning a concrete floor, and then laid in place. The special system of their locking connections makes such installation or dismantling a simple task.

Due to the fact that flooring manufacturers are constantly working on new materials, and they appear on sale from time to time, it is quite possible to choose a modern, original and affordable option for bath floors.

* * * * * * *

So, possible types of bath floor designs were considered, as well as the materials used to create them. Having such information, it will be easier to decide which option is most suitable for a particular room and will correspond to both the wishes and financial capabilities of the bathhouse owner

Some aspects of creating bath floors, obvious and rather controversial, are highlighted in the video presented to the reader’s attention:

The floor in the bathhouse is made of various materials: which is more practical?

Use it to make a floor in a bathhouse in a washing room? There are several options here: tile flooring on a concrete base. The next option is solid wooden floors with a provision for water drainage. Also – wooden lattice. It is best to insulate a tiled floor additionally, since usually the tiles take away all the heat and in the cold season it will be uncomfortable to walk on it barefoot. This is done using an additional layer of insulation before laying the tiles. Almost always in modern construction, the base of any floor is concrete.

Usually the most popular and common option for installing floors in a bathhouse in the washing department is using wood. To make the floor more durable, a metal reinforcing mesh is placed on the concrete base. This makes the coating more even. Wooden boards or solid fabric (fibreboard, OSB, plywood, etc.) are attached to the top.

In addition to wooden boards and ceramic tiles, the floor in the bathhouse is made entirely of concrete. This is a more durable option for the floor in a washing bath and will definitely last for decades. This option is more expensive and requires organization than wood floors, but it is also more durable and durable.

Leaking flooring made of removable panels

A leaky floor is also made from removable wooden panels. They are made from 5 by 5 cm bars and boards placed crosswise on them. The dimensions of the shield itself are chosen so that in the future it is convenient to remove it and dry it.

Floor made of removable panels

The design of the floor under the shields is the same: the soil is well compacted and a sand and gravel cushion is arranged. The insulation is a 15-centimeter layer of expanded clay concrete. Ceramic tiles are laid on top of it at a slope. Then you won’t have to worry about how to paint the flooring or how to install the stove. This surface does not require additional treatment, and a stove installed on ceramic tiles will last for many years. The boards are laid so that the base bars lie along the slope and do not interfere with the flow of water.

Installing a ceramic floor is an expensive proposition, however, unlike wooden planks, ceramic tiles do not rot and will not have to be replaced over time. So in the long run this becomes the best option. And from the point of view of visitors, tiles look more presentable than wooden boards.

Arrangement scheme

The floor in the sink in a wooden bath – what is important to consider

In modern log baths, high-quality, durable wooden floors are laid in the sink. Construction technologies now make it possible to provide the floor with heat, so that walking on it barefoot at any time of the year will be pleasant and comfortable. It is important to insulate both the bathhouse itself and the wooden floors - they are raised with an additional layer of insulation. Cold, moisture, soil or fungus do not penetrate through the insulation layer.

It is necessary to install a reliable ventilation system in wooden baths. If the ventilation is poor, the floor in the washing compartment of a wooden bathhouse can become damp and begin to rot. High-quality air exchange quickly evaporates water from the surface of natural wood. Ventilation of a wooden room is also useful because condensation after using the steam room evaporates much faster and the surfaces remain dry.

Do-it-yourself floors in a washing bath are not difficult. First, you should decide on the type of coating you want and the method of water drainage. After these mandatory planning stages and taking into account all the features of the bathhouse itself, you can begin work. The most popular option for flooring in a wooden bathhouse sink is wooden planks. They can be laid in two types: leaking and non-leaking.

Laying technology for leaking wooden floors

A step-by-step guide to installing a leaking floor provides for step-by-step work: preparing the underground, installing joists and wooden flooring.

Preparation of the underground

In order for water entering the underground to be discharged into the ground, it is necessary to properly prepare the base - for this, the top layer of soil is cut off and a waterproofing cushion made of small crushed stone up to 26 cm thick is backfilled.

For soils with a low level of moisture absorption, soil removal is carried out at a slight angle, and wastewater is discharged into a 30-centimeter pit through a drain pipe. The soil is covered with clay and leveled.

Important! Before backfilling the pillows, supports are installed under wooden logs, and a foundation is erected for heating equipment.

Installation of support beams

How to install logs correctly? They are mounted on concrete supports equipped with a brick stand. The height of the lag is determined by the height of the pillars (column foundation) or strips (strip foundation).

The installation of the logs is carried out opposite the short wall of the building. To avoid deformation of the joists or their swelling, the supports are covered with a double layer of waterproofing made of roofing felt treated with hot bitumen.

To ensure natural ventilation when laying logs to the walls, a minimum technological gap of 4 cm should be observed.

Wood flooring

To lay the floor, use boards that are fixed perpendicular to the installed joists. In this case, it is necessary to maintain 5 mm gaps between individual floor elements and 2.5 cm between boards and walls. The wooden panel is fixed to the joists using metal nails.

How to make leaking and non-leaking floors in a sink

These installation methods are suitable specifically for wooden floors. This is the most popular and used option for a modern bath. The foundation can be absolutely anything. Be sure to provide space for drainage. This could be a water inlet or a sewer pipe, and in this case the wooden floors are made at a slight slope to allow water to flow by gravity. Wooden floors in leaking bathhouses are most often made from materials such as larch and pine. Logs are attached to the base of the floor (concrete or metal screed) at a distance of a meter from each other. Boards are laid on them with a distance of up to 10 mm. This distance is enough for water to flow down.

Wooden floors in a non-leaking washing bath are laid on logs laid on a concrete foundation. The seams must be sealed against leakage with sealants, and a layer of waterproofing protection must be placed between the joists and the insulation. Next, an additional layer of waterproofing film is applied on top. The so-called subfloor is made at an angle to drain water, and polyethylene is placed on top. The main wooden covering is being installed. Typically tongue and groove boards are used.

Ventilation design

The simplest method of solving the problem of ventilating the space between the rough base and the final finishing of the floor is to create holes to which pipes are connected that lead water out of the washing room.

There is another way to create ventilation - this is the installation of multi-level floors. Therefore, in each room they make a floor structure of different heights. For example, in the washroom the floor surface will be 3 millimeters lower than in the dressing room.

Option one is the most popular among developers, and the order of work is as follows:

In the corners of the washroom at the base of the floor, holes are left for laying ventilation pipes with a diameter of 5-10 centimeters. The material used to make them may vary.
Install pipes for ventilation after finishing the walls in the room. Products with a diameter of no more than 5 centimeters can be disguised under the casing. Pipes of a larger cross-section should be installed in bathhouse buildings that are visited more than twice a week. They are mounted in the corners of the room, attached to the surface of the walls using special clamps.

Do-it-yourself floors in a washing bath - concrete screed

As you already understand, there is nowhere without a concrete base for the floor in a bathhouse. This is the basis of a strong, reliable foundation. How to make a concrete screed yourself - let's figure it out:

The soil must be compacted in a dense layer. Next, pour a thick layer of gravel or similar material. For example, crushed stone. The layer should be about 20-35 centimeters.
Only after preliminary preparation of the soil can concrete be poured. This is best done in thin, successive layers. Remember about water flow.
Subsequent layers of concrete are laid after the previous one has completely dried. This is the only way to achieve the strongest and most durable base coating.
A heating water system for a heated floor can be laid on the final layer of concrete.
You can lay clapboard or wooden boards on top.

Do-it-yourself floors in a washing room are a convenient option for those who follow safety precautions and do not want to spend a lot of money on construction and installation.

Concrete floor installation technology

The arrangement of the floor begins with preparing the soil inside the foundation - clearing it of debris and dirt.

The layout of the monolithic base is as follows:

The soil is carefully compacted and leveled. The inner walls of the foundation are treated with bitumen in several layers.
At the preparatory stage, the sewer pipe is laid through the foundation. To do this, it is enough to make an inlet hole in the base and install a metal adapter for supplying a plastic pipe.
The drain pipe is brought to the place where the drain hole is provided. The end of the pipe is plugged to prevent clogging.
A sand cushion up to 12 cm high is poured onto the ground, moistened and compacted.
Next, you need to put roofing felt on the internal walls of the base with an overlap of 15 cm. Additionally, the joints are treated with bitumen-based mastic.
Expanded clay up to 35 cm thick is laid, leveled and compacted. There is 8 cm left to the edge of the base.
Expanded clay is covered with a film 200 microns thick, and the joints are taped with construction tape. Thermal insulation is installed on top of the waterproofing.
After the foundation is insulated, guides are installed for pouring concrete in increments of 55 to 95 cm. The beacons are laid on a mixture of cement and sand.
When installing guides, it is important to maintain the required slope for proper water drainage. In this case, the beacons are set strictly according to level.
At the bottom of the walls along the perimeter of the room, a damper tape up to 12 cm high is fixed. After pouring and drying the concrete screed, the remaining tape can be removed.
The concrete is poured with the prepared mixture and left until completely dry.

Important! 5 days after pouring, the beacons are dismantled, and the existing voids are filled with the mixture. For the first 10 days, the floor is thoroughly moistened with water up to 3 times a day.

Floor installation with drainage pit

This design is a little more complicated in design, but it is much more preferable.

Floor installation with drainage pit

Installation sequence

Sand and crushed stone is backfilled onto the ground.
The backfill is filled with concrete.
A recess is created in the form of a kind of funnel with flat walls. This part of the structure must be directed towards the wall of the room.
The funnel contains a container designed to accumulate excess water. This container must be made airtight. Typically, containers made of brick or a concrete ring are used. Remember that in bathhouses, the water collector is first installed, and only after that the base itself is laid. Already such a design can be considered as a kind of waterproofing.
Floor boards are laid on top with a gap of approximately 0.5 cm.
The columns that serve as the basis for the logs must be waterproofed. The columns themselves are made of brick or on a sand-concrete base.
After completing the drainage arrangement and preparing the base for installing the furnace, you can proceed to the floor installation stage.

The waterproofing material is directly applied after all of the above work has been completed. The procedure for installing waterproofing depends on the properties of the specifically selected moisture-proof material, as well as on the characteristics of the floor material. Each of them requires the use of its own types of penetrating and traditional waterproofing.

Drain system device

The drainage system from the washing room and steam room is similar in principle to a street rain drain, when water naturally flows along the floor towards a built-in drain connected to the sewer system.

With the help of this simple system, the foundation of the bathhouse will be reliably protected from moisture, musty odors, mildew and mold. For the drainage device, if possible, choose the lowest area of the room. The drain in the form of a gutter or pipe must have an anti-corrosion coating. The upper part of the drain is made of a material that does not overheat when exposed to high temperatures. It is advisable to place the drain funnel in a poorly accessible area of the room.

Drain ladder

Porcelain tiles

The final layer of flooring in my bathhouse is porcelain tiles. I chose porcelain stoneware because of its special strength and frost resistance, as well as resistance to temperature changes. In general, I am sure that my tile will not burst if I decide to heat the bathhouse on a frosty day.

As for the surface of the tile, it must be rough - this is a prerequisite for your safety. Although, soapy water will still do its job and even such a rough surface may turn out to be slippery. In this case, place wooden gratings made from beams on the floor. They can be dried after each visit to the bathhouse, so they will serve for a very long time.

Porcelain tiles are laid with special reinforced adhesive