Installing a plastic window with your own hands: detailed instructions

Nowadays, plastic windows are no longer a symbol of prosperity and a mandatory attribute of European-quality renovation. The structures are installed everywhere in newly built buildings and private houses. They are even installed in older residential buildings to replace existing wooden window products. The popularity of such construction products is due to their affordable price, aesthetics, and good sound and heat insulation ability. This is especially true for noisy cities and regions with cold climates.

Specialized companies that are resellers or manufacturers of plastic windows offer clients not only the products themselves, but also their conditionally free installation. However, the installation cost is included in the price of the structures in advance. Other companies openly offer to carry out installation work for an additional fee, the amount of which is calculated depending on the area of ​​the windows. The minimum cost of such a service is approximately 1200 rubles. per sq. meter.

If you install a plastic window, for which you do not need to have superpowers, there is a chance to save the family budget. But a positive result can be achieved only with a full understanding of all the intricacies of the installation process and the presence of minimal experience that allows you to use the simplest tool.

Self-installation of plastic windows eliminates an irresponsible approach to the manipulations being carried out. Many craftsmen are in a hurry to complete the maximum number of orders in one day. Therefore, they do not pay due attention to small details, do not comply with GOST requirements, do not be careful, and neglect some stages of installation. Others, so-called specialists, try to save money on consumables. This further prevents you from fully exploiting and enjoying the benefits of plastic window products.

Design features of plastic window systems

Polyvinyl chloride is used to make plastic windows. This material is abbreviated as PVC. The abbreviation is used in the name of plastic window systems.

In the production of PVC windows, a profile with a different number of air chambers is used. Their number affects the heat and sound insulation properties of the product. They are isolated spaces between the profile stiffeners. The number of chambers also affects the installation thickness of the profile system. The difference between the smallest and largest value of this size is only about 30 mm. Therefore, a plastic window, even with the widest profile, can be easily installed instead of an old wooden structure. The profile plastic system from well-known manufacturers in most cases has a minimum of 3 and a maximum of 6 air chambers.

All window profiles are additionally reinforced with a steel insert. Therefore, PVC structures are called metal-plastic products. Reinforcement is performed in the middle chamber. Reinforcing liners increase the rigidity of structures and are used as a basis for fastening elements when installing PVC products and fittings. During the manufacture of profile systems, U-shaped and closed steel inserts are used.

Manufacturers of PVC windows use economy, standard and premium profiles. It is recommended to give preference to the “golden mean”. Choosing a standard class profile will allow you to install high-quality window systems in a tilt-and-turn design. The economical option features thin internal partitions between the chambers. Because of this, profile systems can freeze at low temperatures. Premium products are more expensive for customers compared to other options and are often supplemented with various options.

Metal-plastic windows are manufactured mainly in white. If necessary, you can order designs in wood, black, brown or any other tone.

Before you start installing a plastic window, you need to get acquainted with its design:

1. Frame is the supporting base of a metal-plastic window system.
2. The sash is the opening and closing part of a PVC product.
3. Double-glazed window - consists of at least two glasses. Adjacent elements form a sealed chamber with dry air or inert gas. Argon is often used to increase heat transfer resistance. The name of the double-glazed window depends on the number of chambers. Mainly one, two and three-chamber products are produced.
4. Capercaillie - non-opening part of a metal-plastic window
5. Distance frame - made of plastic or, more often, aluminum. The element is placed between the glasses and, together with butyl sealant, fastens adjacent translucent parts and ensures the tightness of the chamber.
6. A bead is a small PVC strip used to secure a glass unit in the frame.
7. Rubber seal to ensure the required degree of tightness of the metal-plastic structure when closed. This material is placed on the frame and sash.
8. Fittings are mechanical elements of a plastic window system. They are used to hold, open and close the sash, including ventilation and even micro-ventilation. Such parts include handles, hinges, child locks, rotation locks, folding scissors.
9. An impost is a strip in a vertical or horizontal plane that divides the window structure into separate parts. Tilt-and-turn sashes or wood grouse are inserted into them.

When installing a plastic window yourself, a metal drain must be installed. The part is fixed on the street side in the lower part of the polyvinyl chloride structure. The drain is designed to drain water that appears as a result of melting snow or rain.

In what ways is it possible?

There are two common ways to install a PVC frame without a stand profile and with a stand.

Without stand profile

In the first option, a number of through holes for anchors are drilled in the frame for fastening in the opening, using a 10 mm drill with the direction of the holes perpendicular to the profile.
I place such holes along the profile axis, with a gap of 180 mm to the inner corner, and 150 mm at the point where the impost is attached.

The drilling direction is maintained from the outer wall to the inner one, this will help create holes of the correct shape.

Sometimes there is no reinforcing liner in the frame profile in the drilling area. When drilling from inside the room, this defect will not be identified, but if on the contrary, then the absence of the liner can be detected.

In this case, you need to make a new hole in the frame, moving 40 mm. These measures are necessary to avoid installing the anchor without a liner, otherwise it will fall inside the chamber.

For standard two- and three-hung windows, fastening is carried out with 11 anchors. In this case, you need to pay attention to the drill; it must be pre-sharpened in order to drill through the internal reinforcing liner.

Advantages of installing metal-plastic windows without a support profile:

• faster installation;
• low installation cost.

Disadvantages of installing a frame without a support profile:

• the ebb is attached to the frame, which creates conditions for moisture to enter the room;
• the tightness of the installation is broken, the wall will freeze;
• the fastening of the window sill is broken;
• The thermal density of the window is disrupted.

With stand profile

When installing a PVC frame, a special profile is attached to the lower end - a stand; after installation, this element cannot be seen, but it fulfills the very important energy-efficient characteristics of the window. In addition, a slope is attached to it from the outside, and a window sill from the inside.

The stand profile is placed in a specially designated groove at the bottom of the frame and secured in it with self-tapping screws and special clamps.

Advantages of a wildcard profile:

• provides thermal protection of the seam together with construction foam;
• increases the service life of the PVC block;
• strengthens the structure of the installed frame;
• protects the opening from moisture and biological damage by mold.

Oddly enough, many experts believe that when installing PVC windows this element is not required, since the main heat and moisture protection is provided by foam. The disadvantages of installing a PVC window using a substitution profile include:

• high cost of installation work;
• extended installation time.

Measuring the opening before purchasing a window

To install a plastic window with your own hands, you need to order and buy a PVC structure of suitable sizes. Therefore, it is necessary to take accurate measurements of the opening where the PVC product will be installed.

Important! Independent calculation of the dimensions of a metal-plastic window deprives the buyer of the manufacturer’s warranty of the polyvinyl chloride structure. The manufacturer provides it only when the measurements are carried out by a specialist from the company. Even a minor error when calculating the dimensions will not allow you to install a PVC window in the opening.

Before starting measurements, it is necessary to determine the type of opening. It can be flat, which has the same width on the inside and outside of the wall.

PVC window size drawing

There are also openings with a quarter. Their outer size is smaller. A quarter is an internal frame 6 cm wide. This corresponds to 1/4 of a brick. This protrusion prevents the window structure from falling out and allows for more reliable installation.

When ordering or purchasing a ready-made PVC window with a set of additional parts, you need to know its horizontal and vertical dimensions. You also need to have information regarding the length and width of the window sill and all slopes.

An accurate calculation of the dimensions of a PVC window for an opening with a quarter is accompanied by the following steps:

• the narrow part of the opening is measured in 3-4 places (width between quarters);
• 20-30 mm is added to the smallest result among all obtained values;
• the actual height of the opening is measured.

Important! To obtain accurate results, you must first remove the old slopes, plaster and window sill.

When determining the dimensions of a plastic window for a smooth opening, you need to subtract 3 cm from the width of the installation site, and 5 cm from the height. This is done to get approximately 1.5 cm gaps for the mounting foam on the left, right and top of the frame. Such actions also allow you to install a window sill from below, which requires about 3.5 cm of free space.

The width of the window sill is selected according to your preferences. Flowers in pots should be placed on it if necessary. It is recommended to add about 10 cm to the width of the inner part of the opening. The ideal option is when the window sill protrudes beyond the inner plane of the wall by a maximum of 6 cm. In this case, convection currents from the hot battery can easily penetrate to the plastic window and prevent fogging of the double-glazed window. The total length of the window sill should be approximately 10 cm longer than the window opening.

The width of the ebb is calculated in the same way as for the window sill. You only need to measure the outer part of the opening, and then add 10 cm per bend to the resulting value. Additionally, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the insulation and finishing material in the presence of facade cladding.

The exact dimensions of the slopes are determined after installing the PVC window and window sill. Therefore, their sizes should be generous. The excess is cut off after the fact during installation work.

PVC window size drawing

Based on the results of all measurements, a drawing of the metal-plastic window system is drawn up. It indicates the dimensions of the frame and other structural elements, the location of the sashes and capcacaillie, the selected fittings, which, if necessary, will be helped by the employees of the PVC window manufacturer.

Note! When ordering and purchasing several polyvinyl chloride window structures for an apartment, the height of all products must be the same, but their width may differ.

Possible errors when installing windows

Here we list the mistakes that are often made when installing windows and can negatively affect the ease of use and service life of the structure:

1. Installation is carried out with glazing beads facing outwards. This reduces the window's burglary resistance, since in this case the beads can be easily removed from the outside and the glass unit can be pulled out.
2. The window is poorly aligned, making it difficult to open and close.
3. The polyurethane foam is not protected from the sun's rays, as a result of which it is destroyed.
4. Due to incorrect measurements or too low fastening of the window structure, the window sill cannot be placed under the frame and must be attached directly to it.
5. The window structure is not fixed by any fasteners and is held in place only by polyurethane foam. Then cracks may appear on the slopes, since foaming is not a full-fledged fastening. Over time, it loses strength and the window becomes so mobile that it can fall out.

We hope that after reading the article you will be able to successfully cope with the installation of PVC windows. And even if you decide to contact an installation organization, you will be able to understand and control this process at all stages.

Removing the old window

This stage of installing a new vinyl window system is a dusty and messy process. Dismantling of the old structure, usually made of wood, is carried out after delivery of the purchased PVC product. The procedure must begin with the protection of furniture items. For this, polyethylene film is used. However, the best option is to remove all furniture from the room.

Dismantling work is carried out using:

• wood hacksaws or electric jigsaw;
• mounts;
• chisel and hammer or hammer drill.

The process begins with removing the window or first a small and then a large sash. Then the internal partition is sawn and removed from the frame. Next, the lower part of the remaining structure is dismantled. It is also sawn and removed from the premises. Do the same with other parts of the old window system. The window sill and drainage system are also subject to dismantling.

How long does it take to work?

Installation of PVC windows can take from 2 to 10 hours. The duration of installation work directly depends on the following factors :

• 
  material of wall structures, work is completed faster in panel houses, where the window opening is initially made more carefully;

• level of premises preparation;
• level of preparation of the window unit;
• number of floors and distance from the waste site;
• time for delivery of the window and accepted consumables.

The preparation of the workplace is carried out by the customer; the more thoroughly it is carried out, the faster the installers will work.

If all conditions are met to the greatest extent, then the main operations for installing a PVC window will take :

• dismantling the old unit - from 25 to 60 minutes;
• window opening preparation - 30 minutes;
• installation at the level of the window frame - 30 minutes;
• installation of sashes and fittings - 15 min;
• window sill insertion - 10 min;
• installation of ebb tides - 15 minutes;
• installation of slopes with panels - 30 min;
• compaction - 15 min;
• total from 2 hours 50 minutes to 3 hours 25 minutes.

Preparing a PVC window for installation

Installation of a plastic window begins with its preparation for installation. If the structure opens, then the doors are removed from the frame. When a blind polyvinyl chloride product is installed, the double-glazed windows are removed. These steps are not performed if the window system being installed is small in size, and installation is carried out using special plates. When preparing a PVC window, you must also remember to remove the protective film from the outside of the frame. You also need to screw in special elements for attaching the mosquito net and install decorative plugs on the oblong drain holes.

We remove the glazing bead from the grooves using a chisel or spatula

We take out the double-glazed window from the sash

Removing a glass unit from the blind part of the frame is done using a thin chisel or a strong spatula and a rubber mallet. The process itself is carried out as follows:

• the tool is carefully inserted into the gap between the frame and the bead;
• the polypropylene trim is bent from the window profile by lightly tapping it with a rubber mallet on a spatula or chisel;
• the tool gradually moves along the gap and is not removed from the gap until the bead is completely out of the groove.

Vertical thin PVC overlays are always removed first. Then the lower bead is removed. At the end of the process, the upper fixing element snaps off. It is recommended to number the parts so that each of them can be put in its place later. After removing all the beads, the frame tilts slightly. This will allow the glass unit to freely exit the polypropylene structure.

The sash is removed in the following sequence:

• the window handle turns to the closed position;
• plastic covers are removed from the hinges;
• the pin is pulled out from the upper loop by pressing on it from above with a hard object and grabbing the tip of this part that appears from below with pliers;
• the window handle is set to the open position, and the PVC structure with double-glazed windows is held by hand;
• the sash tilts slightly towards itself and rises.

Remove the plastic window hinge plug

We take out the rod of the upper hinge of the window

We remove the sash from the lower window awning.
As a result of removing the double-glazed windows from the blind parts and opening elements, only the frame with imposts remains. Therefore, the weight of the installed PVC structure is reduced. This facilitates the installation process and allows you to secure the window through through holes in the frame (installation using anchors).

Methods for installing PVC windows: to unpack or not to unpack – that is the question!

When installing windows, you need to choose the type of installation - with unpacking (unpacking) or without unpacking. Want to understand how these two methods differ from each other? Take a look at the diagram of a plastic window.

• The frame is one of the main elements of a window. The frame is formed from a reinforced PVC profile and several sealed chambers. The number of cameras can vary from two or more.
• A double-glazed window is the largest element of a window, occupying about 80% of its area. It is a sealed structure consisting of glass. Depending on the number of glasses and air gaps between them, it can be single-chamber, double-chamber, etc. The double-glazed window fits tightly to the frame due to the seal.
• Glazing beads are parts that allow you to mechanically secure a glass unit to the frame.
• An impost is a separator through which a window is divided into several sashes. There are single-leaf, double-leaf, three-leaf, etc. designs.
• A blind sash is a sash without an opening mechanism.
• A transom is an opening sash.
• Sill (other names: bottom, mounting, stand) profile is a load-bearing element of a window structure. It is necessary for the correct installation and fastening of a plastic window sill and external drain indoors.
• Fittings are all moving parts of the structure designed to open, close, and secure the transom when ventilating the room.

Window installation method with unpacking

(in some regions the term “unpacking” is used, the essence is the same). This method is based on preliminary disassembly of the structure: glazing beads and double-glazed windows. After fixing the frame to the wall throughly, all removed elements are installed again.

To quickly and correctly unpack the structure, you need a strong knife or chisel. We insert a knife blade or chisel between the glazing bead and the frame, and with gentle blows on the handle, knock the glazing bead out of the groove until a gap appears. Then we bend the knife (chisel) and push the elements apart with the wide side. We consistently do this with all the glazing beads that hold the glass unit in the sash. It is not recommended to do this procedure with the sharp end of a knife, since it increases the risk of damaging the window or glazing bead. To remove the glass unit, be sure to wear gloves, otherwise you will injure your hands on the sharp corners of the structure. If the window is not solid and there are sashes, remove them. If there is a transom in one of the sashes, it is easier to remove the entire assembly without removing the glass unit. That's it, the structure is ready for installation.

Disadvantages of the method

: more labor-intensive, takes longer than installation without unpacking (on average, 30-60 minutes are added for each window). Often, fogging of the glass unit occurs in a window installed using this method. In addition, the appearance of the glazing beads may be damaged (scratches, chips) if they are removed/installed carelessly. It is important to perform all actions clearly and carefully. After removing the packages, you need to put them in a safe place where there is no chance of accidentally touching them and breaking them.

Advantages and scope of application of the method

: installation of windows with unpacking is more reliable and provides a strong fixation of the frame to the wall. This method should be chosen in the following cases:

— it is planned to fasten windows in multi-story buildings (from the 15th floor). When installing windows on the lower floors, where there is no wind and gusts of wind, they do not need to be unpacked;

— installation of structures of considerable size is to be done. However, in this case, combined installation is allowed (the balcony block is attached without unpacking).

Window installation method without unpacking

This method does not require disassembling the structure. That is, there is no need to remove double-glazed windows and glazing beads. The frame is secured to the wall not with dowels, but with fasteners pre-installed on the outside of the wall.

Advantages and scope of application of the method:

Installing windows without unpacking saves time, shortening the process as much as possible. This method is recommended for use where there is no need for increased fastening strength: when replacing standard windows in private houses, and also, as mentioned earlier, in multi-storey buildings below the 15th floor.

Methods of fastening a PVC window system

Before installing a plastic window, you need to decide on the method of fastening the structure. There are several popular options for fixing the profile system - using an anchor, plate or dowel. To choose the appropriate method, you need to know the features of each fastening method.

Anchor dowel

When installing a plastic window yourself is done in a panel or brick house, the walls of which do not have a layer of insulating material, any of the options for fixing the PVC structure can be used. Using an anchor is considered a reliable method. The sleeve of this fastener expands the sleeve when the screw is tightened. Therefore, the anchor dowel is securely fixed in the wall.

The disadvantage of using an anchor is the inability to dismantle it. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to carry out thorough preparation, including leveling the profile system. Otherwise, correcting errors will be very expensive.

To apply the anchor dowel, a through hole is created in the frame. This can lead to depressurization of the cameras in the profile. As a result, there will be a violation of the temperature balance inside the profile system.

The use of anchors requires certain professional skills from the work performer. If there is an error, gaps may appear or the fastening element will interfere with closing the sash. If all the work is done correctly, the window system will not sag and vibration will be eliminated even under strong wind loads.

Mounting plate

This fastening option must be used if the installation is carried out in a building with walls made of foam blocks, aerated concrete or reinforced concrete panels with insulating layers. After all, these are porous materials. The anchors will not hold securely in them.

Using plate elements is the simplest method of fixation, but it is not a 100% reliable method. However, it is used most often. It allows you to avoid depressurization of the profile system. The disadvantages of this method of fastening also include the possibility of the PVC window shaking. After all, the plates are fixed at one end to the profile with self-tapping screws, and are not twisted with it through through holes into a single structure. The other side of the fasteners is screwed to the wall using not an anchor, but a screw and a plastic dowel.

Nog

This type of fastener is an ordinary screw. It is used in the same way as an anchor. However, the dowel can always be unscrewed if necessary.

Installation diagram

Before you begin installing windows, an appropriate diagram must be drawn so that when performing work you do not violate the requirements for the location of fasteners and other structural elements, in order to protect the structure from deformation during significant temperature changes.

In this case, the maximum distances between fasteners and frame structures are :

• white profile, 700 mm;
• PVC profile, colored, 600 mm;
• gap from the window corner: 200 - 250 mm;
• from the impost connection to the fasteners: 150 - 180 mm;
• the smallest depths in concrete, 40 mm;
• on traditional brick, 40 mm;
• on hollow brick, 60 mm;
• on concrete blocks, 50 mm;
• concrete blocks, 60 mm.

Colored PVC windows must be secured exclusively with anchor plates. This is due to the fact that colored structures have a linear expansion coefficient that is 2 times higher than white ones. In addition, the anchor plate must be fixed to the wall, and not to the plaster and slope. It is placed under sealing mounting tapes.

Mounting points for plastic windows

The first fastening must be done at a distance of at least 12 cm and maximum 18 cm from the corner of the profile system. The distance between subsequent places where the frame is fixed to the opening should be no more than 70 cm. This rule is clearly regulated by GOST. It applies to all window openings, regardless of the method of fastening the profile system, material and wall design. In this case, each vertical side of the frame must be fixed at least at three points, and the horizontal side must be fixed with at least two hardware. Determining the location of fasteners is influenced by the type of profile, color and size of the window.

If the house is built of concrete, bricks, cinder blocks or foam blocks, the window frame is installed from the inside of the wall at a distance of 2/3 of the opening thickness. When the wall structure is insulated with foam plastic, the profile system is fixed to the heat insulator. If the building is insulated and ennobled with bricks, the installation of a plastic window is carried out in the area of ​​thermal insulation material.

How to measure a window.

Any replacement of windows begins with determining the size of the window unit. For this stage, it is better to call a measurer who has the necessary experience in this matter. Basically, measuring services from window manufacturers are free. But if you decide to take measurements yourself, then you need to know that there are two types of window openings. And the window unit is measured differently for them. Therefore, before taking measurements, you need to remove the plaster from the window opening and determine what kind of opening you have.

Dismantling old plaster is also necessary to increase the accuracy of measurements.

The first type of opening is a quarter window. A quarter is a special protrusion on the window opening, against which the window frame is pressed during installation. This protrusion is located closer to the street, and the window frame from the inside of the room is pressed against it.

Picture 1.

Determine the internal width of the window opening: C = B1 + A + B2

Determine the height of the window opening. To do this, you need to measure the dimension H from the ebb at the point of contact with the frame (point M) to the upper quarter. Using a feeler gauge, take several control measurements of the upper quarter (size B3) (Fig. 2).

The height of the window opening will be equal to: U = H + B3

The second type of opening is a regular rectangular opening. It's a little easier to take measurements here. Don't forget to remove the layer of plaster before taking measurements.

Window block width = A – (2 × 20) mm, where 20 mm is the optimal installation gap (Fig. 4)

Height of the window block: = H – 25 mm (Fig. 5).

The last stage in the measurements is measuring the low tide and window sill.

Window sill length = window opening width + 200mm. In the case of an opening with quarters, this is C+200mm. In the case of a regular opening, this is A+200.

The width of the window sill should be such that its edge overlaps the heating radiator located under the window by approximately 70%. The window sill should not completely cover the battery. Warm air from the battery should rise freely along the window.

Length of ebb = maximum width of window opening on the street side +100mm.

Aligning a PVC window in the opening

Correct installation of a plastic window is possible only after careful horizontal and vertical alignment of the polyvinyl chloride structure at the installation site. The plumbness of the frame is checked in three planes. The work is performed using a plumb line, construction or laser level. The process cannot be carried out focusing on the edges of the window opening. After all, its side walls in old and even new houses are often not in the vertical and horizontal plane.

GOST states that vertical deviation of the frame is allowed. This value cannot exceed 3 mm per 1 m. However, along the entire length of the metal-plastic structure, the maximum deviation should be less than 4.5 mm. To level the profile system in the opening, mounting wedges made of polymer material or blocks of hard wood impregnated with antiseptic compounds are used. They are placed under the bottom profile and used on all other sides of the frame.

DIY instructions

The main task of installing PVC windows on your own is to securely fasten the structure and insulate the connecting seams. This will depend on how accurately the contractor follows the manufacturer’s recommendations for installing such a unit.

Standard installation of PVC windows consists of the following operations:

1. The window is glazed, the moving sashes are removed from their hinges, the glazing beads are removed from the blind sashes and the PVC frame is turned over.
2. Place the stand profile with glue in the place where the window frame will be installed.
3. A layer of vapor barrier membrane is glued to the inside of the PVC frame either along the general contour of the whole film, or in separate overlapping pieces.
4. Drill holes in the frame.
5. Insert the frame with technological gaps of 2.5 cm at the top and bottom.
6. The position of the PVC frame is adjusted by level in 2 planes using special construction and installation wedges.
7. After completing the process of fixing the frame, put the sashes in place with the fittings and check the quality of the sashes.
8. Fill the seams with construction foam.

The subtleties of installing metal-plastic windows must be taken into account depending on the wall material, since the strength of different types differs from each other, so in some cases it will be necessary to use special reinforcing technologies.

Read more about installing PVC windows yourself in this article.

In a house made of aerated concrete

To install PVC windows in such walls, only galvanized special fasteners for aerated concrete are used , since the usual one is not able to guarantee the immobility of the frames under high wind potential. For installation efficiency, a quarter is installed in such walls - a protrusion along the outer plane of the wall, covering the opening by 60 mm along two vertical and upper horizontal slopes.

In walls made of aerated concrete blocks, the quarter is installed not during the process of laying the blocks, but after leveling the window slopes. Pieces of 100 mm blocks are glued along the window perimeter. Internal and external adhesive seams are reinforced with plastic mesh.

The installation of such quarters in the opening makes it possible to more thoroughly seal the openings and reliably protect the construction foam from exposure to UV rays.

In a panel building

These houses are distinguished by a very thin wall, which, however, does not indicate the low energy efficiency of such structures. The heat resistance of the walls is ensured by multi-layering with the use of effective heat-protective materials, but it is quite difficult to reliably install a PVC window in such wall structures.

For these types of walls , you will need to choose the correct installation width of the profile , as wide as possible in order to increase the contact area between the wall and the window.

The temperature in a narrow wall is distributed less evenly than in a traditional brick wall. Therefore, the contractor must push PVC windows deeper into the insulated interior of the rooms, so as not to lose heat, thereby reducing the possibility of condensation on the glass and slopes.

Experts believe that the profile thickness for such walls should not be less than 70 mm. Only in this case will the heat transfer resistance of the window unit be maximized. In addition, since the double-glazed window with such an installation scheme will be located in the “cold” plane of the opening, it will additionally be necessary to install glass with increased energy-saving characteristics into the double-glazed window.

In a wooden household

The peculiarities of installing metal-plastic windows in a house with wooden walls are due to the fact that such structures cause serious shrinkage. In order to reduce the negative impact of this process on the structure of the windows, they use a “pipe”, which is also called casing in everyday life .

When installed, the window structure will become independent from the shrinkage and movement of the wooden walls of the house. That is, the walls will still be subject to shrinkage, but they will not be able to create pressure on the window structure.

The full article on the installation of structures in wooden households is here.

In brick

These houses are distinguished by different sizes of window openings, wide internal slopes up to 50 m and correspondingly wide window sills, which are further increased by making a free projection of 1 to 2 cm, that is, in pure size the window sill will have a width of up to 40 cm.
PVC window in a brick wall extends at least 1/3 inside from the outside; if this distance is violated, the windows will fog up.

The structures are fixed using dowels or anchor bolts; they are secured through pre-prepared wall holes.

More information here.

In a frame building

Experts insist that the installation of PVC windows in a frame house must be carried out in the area where the heat insulator is located. In the case of external thermal protection with a ventilation gap, the window is installed flush with the casing. If there is no external insulation, the window is installed 1/3 of the width of the thermal insulation layer.

You cannot install a frame in frame walls if there is no lateral insulation ; such blocks will be cold and susceptible to condensation of water vapor.

In addition, when installing window frames in such houses, it is necessary to install a support profile, inside of which insulation is preliminarily laid.

For frame cottages, it is allowed to use 2 types of fasteners - self-tapping screws and anchor plates. The former are stronger, but take longer to install, and the plates are not suitable for non-standard windows.

For these houses, you need to choose high-quality construction foam, which should be applied with a mounting gun to no more than 70% of the volume of the connecting gap, so that there is room for the expansion of the foam.

Also, the structure must be carefully treated with layers of hydro and vapor protection . External waterproofing is glued directly onto the PVC profile before the frame is installed in the opening; the waterproofing is placed inside the structure, leaving allowances for construction foam.

Read more about installation in a frame house in this article.

In the bath

For those who doubt the possibility of installing PVC windows in a bathhouse, experts have given a comprehensive answer - for many bathhouse premises such windows are allowed for installation , these include:

1. steam rooms with wet steam with T=+60 C and not higher;
2. rest rooms;
3. showers;
4. washing;
5. dressing rooms;
6. Japanese steam rooms, where no steam is used at all.

At a higher temperature in the room, PVC windows begin to emit harmful substances that have a detrimental effect on the health of visitors and prematurely destroy the structure of the block, since the high temperature leads to deformation of the frame and destruction of the glass.

The technology for installing PVC windows in bathhouses made of timber or logs is no less complex. The wood of the walls very quickly absorbs water and then releases it, as a result of which the window opening can change in size. In order to protect the window frame from these negative processes, a casing is installed - an independent frame that holds the window block. To install the casing, special grooves are made in the walls.

After installing the casing, the installation of the frame is carried out in the usual way, the mounting slots are filled with foam, then heat and vapor protection is performed at the joints and slopes and they are covered with finishing.

More details about installing windows in a bathhouse can be found here.

Installation instructions for a plastic window

Using the instructions on how to properly install a plastic window, you will be able to simplify the installation process, reduce the likelihood of errors and perform the work better. It is advisable to carry out all manipulations by at least two people. After ordering the exact dimensions, purchasing and delivering a PVC window, preparing the premises, dismantling the old PVC structure, removing opening sashes and double-glazed windows from the blind parts of the frame, work continues in a certain sequence.

Preparing the opening

Construction waste, including polyurethane foam, sealant and remaining fasteners, is removed from the cleared opening from the old window. The slopes are cleared of plaster, and the space under the window sill is cleared of the cement layer. If there are potholes and cracks larger than 2 mm on the surfaces of the opening, they are sealed with a solution of cement, sand and water or putty. Then you need to apply a penetrating primer. This is especially important if the walls are built from loose material.

Advice! It is recommended to use quick-drying mixtures of gypsum or polymers to eliminate defects instead of cement-sand mortar. This will reduce the overall installation time.

PVC window installation

The frame without sashes and double-glazed windows is brought into the prepared opening and installed on mounting blocks with control of the vertical and horizontal position. If bars are used, a layer of waterproofing material can be laid underneath them for additional protection of the wooden elements. Wedges should be used around the entire perimeter of the window. They facilitate the process of leveling the structure.

When installing a plastic window according to GOST, you also need to use a stand profile. The element increases the stability of the PVC structure, allows you to secure the drain and install a window sill.

When the frame is attached with anchors, through holes are made in the profile using a hammerless drill. Their diameter is usually from 8 to 10 mm. The hammer drill is used only for drilling walls made of dense material (reinforced concrete slab, brick, monolith).

Installation of the plastic frame is done by not fully tightening the bottom anchors. Then the top and only then the middle hardware are screwed in. At the same time, the verticality of the window system is constantly monitored.

Advice! It is not recommended to use great force when tightening the anchors. Otherwise, there is a possibility of deformation of the plastic frame.

After complete fixation of the frame structure, the pads from under the lower profile are not removed. They should remain at the edges of the frame and under the impost. Mounting blocks reduce the load on hardware.

Drainage installation

From the outside of the opening, the ebb is fixed by screwing self-tapping screws into the substitution profile. To prevent moisture from penetrating into the structure, a sealant is used. With its help, connecting places are sealed.

Important! Before installing the drainage system, do not forget to seal the bottom gap.

To reduce noise from rain, it is recommended to stick soundproofing material on the bottom of the drain. You can also use polyurethane foam. It creates a pillow under low tide.

Assembly and final fastening of the plastic window

After fixing the frame with anchors or plates, the removed sash is installed. To do this, the lower loop is put on the spindle. Then the parts of the upper similar fittings are combined and connected by a steel rotating shaft, which was previously removed.

The removed double-glazed window from wood grouse is inserted into place and secured with numbered glazing beads. When installing the plastic covers, you should hear a click. If the glazing beads are difficult to get into place, they can be tapped with a rubber mallet.

At the next stage, it is necessary to check the functionality and tightness of the sash. It should stay in place when open. If the sash does not move, the PVC window is level.

After checking, you can start foaming the seams. To improve the polymerization of the polyurethane foam, it is recommended to moisten the gaps with water. The seams should be filled to a maximum of 90%. Otherwise, deformation of the metal-plastic window will occur. If the work is done correctly, the foam will protrude out a little. Its dried excess is cut off with a construction knife. After this, you need to stick a vapor barrier tape around the perimeter of the plastic window.

Installation of window sill and slopes

The window sill is trimmed in accordance with the dimensions of the inside of the opening. The part to be installed must rest against the backing profile and extend at least 2 cm below the slope on each side.

Laying the window sill with a slope of approximately 60 towards the room is carried out using wooden wedges and using polyurethane foam. The window system element must be temporarily pressed with a heavy object.

Installing slopes allows you to refine the window opening by covering the installation seams. These decorative elements do not in any way affect the ability to retain heat and the tightness of the PVC structure if they were sealed according to the instructions and the correct installation of the drain and window sill was carried out. The installation of slopes can be carried out during the finishing of the entire room.

Stages of installing plastic windows

The answer to how to properly install a plastic window is simple - initially the glazing activity should be carried out in free space. This is necessary in order to prevent damage to interior items and household appliances, and injury from discomfort and cramped conditions.

Workplace for a window installer Source s10.stc.all.kpcdn.net

You will also need space for a dismantled window, a new disassembled structure, tools and quiet movement. The work is accompanied by dust and debris, so it is better to cover the remaining things and furniture with film or a damp cloth.

It is recommended to cover the working areas under the window and along the walls with plywood, hardboard or chipboard. These materials will not allow damage to the floor covering from the pressure of heavy objects or falling window elements, tools, or stepladders.

Removing old windows

How to install plastic windows if there is already glazing, but it needs to be replaced - dismantle the old double-glazed windows and frames. The main thing is to prepare the site and follow the procedure. For work you will need gloves, a hacksaw, a crowbar, a knife and a screwdriver or screwdrivers.

Removing the glazing looks like this:

• Removing the sash. If the glass is poorly secured, it is better to remove it in advance.
• Cutting and removing the frame with impost. It is enough to make a few notches to simplify the task. For wood, you should use a regular saw, and for metal, you can take a grinder.

Removing an old window Source cdn1.spiegel.de

• Removing a window sill with low tide. The wooden one is dismantled by analogy with the same frame. The concrete is pierced with a jackhammer or a hammer drill with a spatula attachment; to simplify the work, cuts can be made with a grinder.