Installation of a chimney from sandwich pipes through a wooden wall: diagrams on how to properly make a passage, installation and fastening

Modern man is a very heat-loving creature, and cannot exist in a house without heating. A heat generator with a chimney is the most complex and potentially dangerous engineering system. A chimney is a rather bulky and complex structure, and if the stove or fireplace is located near the outer wall of the house, then the most practical option is to install the chimney through the wall.

We welcome our regular reader and offer him information on how to make a chimney outside near the wall of the house with your own hands.

Features of working with wooden walls

Installing a chimney from a sandwich pipe through a wooden wall requires precautions.

The dimensions of the hole in the wall are selected with a margin of 100 mm between the wall and the pipe. The distance from the chimney to other combustible materials is 450 mm.
Basalt insulation is laid around the sandwich (it is resistant to high temperatures) and asbolite (or mineralite) around the perimeter.
To hold the insulation inside the hole, it is covered with a sheet of stainless metal.
A spark arrestor or umbrella is installed at the end of the chimney for fire safety purposes.

What is a sandwich pipe and what are they?

The sandwich pipe was named so for its multi-layer nature: there are two layers of metal, between which there is insulation. This structure solves many of the problems that were inherent in a simple chimney made of a metal pipe. Firstly, the insulation layer does not allow the outer metal casing to heat up to critical temperatures, and hard radiation does not emit from the pipe. More comfortable conditions are created indoors. Secondly, the same insulation significantly reduces the amount of condensation that forms when the pipe is brought outside. Thirdly, since the outer casing is no longer at such a high temperature, it is easier to make the chimney pass through the roof or wall.

A sandwich pipe is two metal cylinders, the space between which is filled with insulation.

What materials are they made from?

Sandwich pipes are made of galvanized or stainless steel. Galvanized sandwich pipes for chimneys are rarely used. Perhaps for the removal of combustion products from a low-power wall-mounted gas boiler or gas water heater. Can be used for insulated ventilation. They are unsuitable for more serious heating devices - at high temperatures, zinc burns out, steel quickly rusts, and the chimney becomes unusable.

Sandwich pipes for high-temperature flue gases are made of stainless steel. Moreover, stainless steel is used in different grades - from alloys with a small content of alloying metals to highly alloyed heat-resistant ones. The thickness of the metal can also be different - from 0.5 to 1 mm, as well as the thickness of the insulation - 30 mm, 50 mm and 100 mm. It is clear that the scope of application will be different, and so will the price.

The main grades of steel that are used in the production of sandwich pipes for chimneys, their purpose and main characteristics are summarized in the table.

Stainless steel grade	Main characteristics	Application area
AISI 430	It has sufficient resistance to atmospheric influences, but does not tolerate high temperatures well	Used for outer casings of sandwich pipes
AISI 439	Contains titanium, which increases resistance to elevated temperatures and aggressive environments.	Suitable for gas boilers, low-power solid fuel units (up to 30 kW)
AISI 316	Alloying additives - nickel and molybdenum - provide high resistance to acids and increased heat resistance.	Optimal for gas boilers of any type.
AISI 304	Cheaper version of AISI 316 with fewer alloying additives	Economy option for gas boilers of medium and low power
AISI 316I, AISI 321	Withstands temperatures up to 850°C	Can be used for heating solid fuel stoves
AISI 310S	Increased heat resistance - up to 1000°C (and price)	For sauna and pyrolysis solid fuel stoves

As is clear from the table, different grades of stainless steel have different purposes. Cheaper alloys are used for the outer casing, more heat-resistant and expensive ones for the internal casing. This is necessary to reduce the cost of products, and high resistance to temperatures outside the chimney is not needed. There are even more budget options - the outer casing is made of galvanized steel. Externally, these products are inferior to stainless steel, but serve normally (with normal insulation and its thickness).

Insulation and its thickness

There is insulation between two layers of metal. Most often this is stone wool. The thickness of the insulation varies from 30 to 100 mm:

With 30 mm thick insulation, the flue gas temperature should not exceed 250°C. Such temperatures are produced only by gas boilers of small and medium power.
A 50 mm insulation layer can withstand temperatures up to 400°C. Scope of application - any gas and liquid fuel boilers, wood-burning, provided that the chimney is vented to the street (through the wall).
A 100 mm layer of stone wool can withstand temperatures up to 850°C. Such a sandwich chimney can be installed on any type of solid fuel boiler, in fireplaces and hearths.

In addition to the thickness of the insulation, you need to pay attention to its brand, or rather, to the temperature range in which it can operate. Not every stone wool can withstand heating up to 850°C, but only some special brands. If you need a chimney for a solid fuel boiler, you will also have to take into account the heat resistance of the insulation.

A set of elements from which a sandwich chimney of any configuration is assembled

Connection types

Sandwich chimney elements can be connected to each other in two ways: with sockets and corrugated edges. A socket connection requires a slightly wider chamfer on one side. With this design, a high degree of chimney tightness is achieved. This type of sandwich pipe is well suited for gas boilers, where it is important to prevent leakage. There is also a minus: installation requires high precision.

The corrugated edge of the sandwich allows you to assemble the chimney without problems. The disadvantage of this solution is that to ensure tightness, a significant amount of high-temperature sealant is required, and it costs a lot.

Features of sandwich pipes for chimneys

It is also worth paying attention to the longitudinal seam. It can be welded or folded. If the seam is welded, it must be made in an argon protective environment (so that alloyed metals do not burn out). This type of connection is necessary for solid fuel boilers, sauna stoves and fireplaces. For all others, you can use a seam connection.

Principle of operation

The principle of operation of a chimney is the ability of heated gases to rise, reducing their density. As a result, the cavity becomes rarefied and is replaced by air coming from outside. The draft increases, supporting combustion. When the gases cool, an acidic precipitate appears. It affects the internal walls of the structure, deforming and destroying them. To reduce the threshold for the formation of acid condensate, thermal insulation materials are used.

Installation instructions for specific types

Ceramic chimneys are characterized by high resistance to high temperatures, durability and excellent performance.
The smooth surface reduces the chance of soot or ash accumulation. Divided by material:

They are found from high-quality types of clay (this in itself is a very expensive material), the main feature of which is fine dispersion and uniformity.
In the production of fireclay, inexpensive types of clay that have coarse particles are used.

The service life of these models also varies.

According to the type of assembly, ceramic chimneys are:

ceramic-expanded clay - the pipe is “edged” with expanded clay blocks and looks like a brick one;
ceramic-stainless - the shell is made of mirror stainless steel 0.8 mm thick (external effect - the pipe seems to be metal);
expanded clay-stainless steel.

Types and designs of external chimneys

By design, external chimney devices when discharged through a wall are:

wall-mounted They are fixed to the facade;
indigenous. They differ from wall-mounted devices in that they are located near the frame house, and not on the facade wall. This is an independent structure with a foundation.

Main chimney
A chimney through a wall in a wooden house is made of fire-resistant materials. Brick, metal, asbestos-cement and ceramic variations protect your home from toxic gases to varying degrees. We will introduce you to the features of the most common types.

Brick

Built from red brick.

The brick is strong, durable, has a good appearance and is wear-resistant.

It has a rectangular cross-section, which is inconvenient for increasing traction force. The surface inside the structure is rough. The chimney is heavy. Only qualified masons can install it. Brick cannot withstand exposure to aggressive chemicals. The porous texture of the material promotes the accumulation of moisture and deposits of soot and soot.

Inspection hatch for cleaning an external brick chimney

Ceramic

A popular design is the ceramic sandwich pipe. It has a long service life. It is easy to install. You can handle its construction yourself. The walls inside the product are smooth, so good traction is guaranteed. The device can be installed both outside and inside the building.

Weight of a 6-8 meter ceramic chimney

Ceramic structures are not afraid of aggressive chemicals: alkalis, acids.

An important disadvantage is the high price.

Ceramic chimney in blocks

Metal

Single-component chimneys are metal pipes of round cross-section. They are not used for outdoor installation because they have high heat loss. Aggressive substances that appear when gases cool down destroy the metal structure. Therefore, the service life of single-layer devices is short. Their disadvantage is the need for expensive thermal insulation.

Sandwich pipes (double-circuit) consist of a large and small pipe and insulation. It also serves as an insulator. The pipes are made of acid-resistant stainless steel.

Smooth chimney walls provide good draft and reduce the amount of soot on their surface. Installing a chimney through a wall using sandwiches is a very common option.

Sectional view of a sandwich pipe

Installation instructions

Now you should directly consider how to install a chimney through a wall. The technology may differ slightly depending on the material used to construct the building.

Brick base

If the walls are brick, then installation involves the following work:

Determination of the exit area of the structure. It should not disturb the exterior of the house.
Marking the wall. First, the installation location of the boiler is determined. Next, the height of the boiler and the outlet pipe is measured. At the same time, we must not forget about fire safety standards for organizing heating. The pipe outlet is marked in the required location. The parameters are checked several times.
Making a hole. This requires a hammer drill. The hole is insulated with fireproof material. For concrete walls or brick structures, mounting foam and asbestos sheet are suitable.
Box insert made of fire-resistant material.

Advantages and disadvantages of venting the chimney through the wall

Installing a chimney through a wall has the following advantages.

It can be carried out after the completion of the construction of the house, and not at its beginning.
You can install the chimney structure yourself, because installation is simple and consists of several operations.
Since the chimney device is located outside the building, access to it is open, which facilitates repairs and maintenance.
It is possible to regulate the traction force.
High fire safety.
Gas leakage is excluded.
There is no need to make holes in the roofing pie.
Saving space indoors.

The disadvantages of such a chimney include:

violation of the aesthetic appearance of your home;
heat loss. It goes into the atmosphere. It is necessary to properly insulate the exit through the wall;
to prevent water from entering the pipe, it is necessary to install ebbs;
additional fixation of the chimney to the wall is necessary;
a large number of bends in the structure disrupt the draft and slow down the release of exhaust gases into the atmosphere.

May be interesting: Insulation of a house made of timber

Advantages and possible disadvantages

Before leading the pipe from the stove through the wall, you should consider the positive and negative aspects of the design. The following are its advantages:

saving space indoors;
the construction is not at the initial stage of construction of the building, but after its completion (this is the best option if it is necessary to reconstruct the house);
ease of maintenance and repair;
less construction work;
ease of regulation of the chimney if necessary to change the draft force;
high level of fire safety of the building and heating equipment;

Fire protection of a chimney Source krovlyaikrysha.ru

there is no need to violate the integrity of the rafter system, there is no need to make holes in the ceiling or roof;
optimal level of safety in terms of leakage of toxic gases.

However, this design also has disadvantages:

requires mandatory thermal insulation;
low efficiency (heat from them enters the atmosphere);
at high altitudes, operation of the structure is difficult due to the large windage, so additional fastening is required;
with a large number of bends, the rate of removal of combustion products decreases.

To prevent water from the slope from entering the chimney, it is necessary to install special ebbs. Sometimes the design can disrupt the exterior of the building.

The service life of such a chimney

The duration of operation is influenced by factors:

material. The most short-lived material is galvanized metal. The chimney will last 5-10 years, depending on the intensity of the fireboxes. The service life of stainless steel is 15-20 years. The ceramic design will delight you for about 40 years. The period of operation of a brick chimney is half a century;
installation. If the pipe is installed correctly, then it can be used for 20 - 50 years;
heating temperature of the exhaust gases. For a solid fuel boiler it is high - 300 degrees. In a gas boiler it is only 120 degrees. The lower the temperature, the more condensate forms inside the pipe. Condensate contains aggressive substances that corrode the walls and destroy them;
heating type. Gas boilers are more durable than other heating systems.

To ensure that the exhausted chimney lasts as long as possible, ensure that it is cleaned and inspected.

How should a chimney be installed?

The chimney is an integral part of the heating system and its placement directly depends on the location of the heating device. The best location for the chimney system is inside the building. In such conditions, the chimney is protected from cold air, and the draft is not affected by wind surges, which makes it stable and optimal. It is best to bring the pipe outside under the very ridge of the roof in order to minimize atmospheric influences on the DS.

In the case when the heating operates constantly, for example, a gas boiler, then there is not much difference where the chimney will be placed - indoors or on the facade. And if the heating is not constant, for example, a stove or fireplace, then problems may arise with their operation. The fact is that the chimney does not generate heat and cannot heat itself. This function is assigned to the heating device. The chimney only needs to reliably and safely remove the flue gases that are formed due to the combustion of fuel to the outside.

Let's imagine a situation: the heating device is not functioning, and the chimney runs along the facade of the building. In this case, heated flue gases stop flowing into the smoke channel; they cool and freeze. And no matter what measures are taken to insulate the chimney (shaft equipment, increasing the thermal insulation layer), the temperature inside the chimney will be almost identical to the outside one.

Let's look at a simple example. Imagine a house under construction that already has walls and a roof, windows and doors installed, but no heating. So, no matter how thick and insulated the walls of the building are, the temperature in the room will be the same as outside.

General rules for chimney installation

When deciding on installation, follow the established rules.

It is prohibited to install a chimney near engineering systems: sewerage, electrical wiring.
For proper operation of the chimney, a deflector is required. It eliminates the impact of precipitation on the traction and the internal casing of the structure.
It is necessary to install a snow retainer on the roof in the part where the chimney exits the wall. It protects the chimney channel from mechanical damage.
The pipes must be secured to the walls in increments of no more than 1 m.
Before installing a double-layer chimney pipe over the furnace firebox, a sandwich start is installed.
Non-flammable insulation (basalt) around the sandwich pipe protects the wood from ignition.
The pipe extends from the boiler strictly horizontally, its length to the wall is no more than 1 m.
The pipe in the passage through the wall is mounted in one piece without joints.
To avoid emergency situations, it is important to provide open access to it in order to repair it at any time.

How the chimney works

The traditional brick chimney differs in design from modern chimneys, which are assembled from ready-made factory-made elements.

Any chimney has a vertical box, a head, valves, hatches for cleaning, and sometimes a foundation.

A typical brick chimney has the following parts:

If necessary, a foundation.
The neck is used to connect to the furnace firebox.
Riser (box) with valves.
When retrofitting, a stainless steel liner is often inserted into the brick frame.
Slope.
Otter - expansion of brick walls above the roof, covering the gap in the roof from precipitation and leaves; A galvanized steel molding is often attached to the otter.
At the point of passage through the roof structure there is a neck.
Headband.
In recent decades, the top of the structure has been covered with a metal cap.

A chimney made of asbestos cement and steel consists of pipes, adapters for connecting to the firebox, a cap, insulation, and sometimes an outer lining made of galvanized sheet.

The most modern and promising types of chimneys are made from three-layer sandwich pipes and prefabricated ceramic ones. These types of pipelines are assembled from ready-made factory-made elements; a wide range of elements allows you to quickly install structures of any configuration.

The main parts of ceramic and sandwich pipes are straight and rotary elements (elbows), tees, elements with inspection hatches for cleaning, elements with a container for collecting condensate; transition elements for connecting the heating unit, cone, deflector.

Sandwich pipes consist of two layers of metal and insulation between them. Ceramic chimneys are assembled from an external expanded clay concrete frame, an internal prefabricated ceramic duct and a layer of insulation between them.

Modern chimneys are not installed without deflectors - they increase draft and protect the smoke channel from precipitation.

Fire safety requirements for chimneys

Fire safety rules during installation of chimneys are as follows.

In places where the sandwich pipe touches wooden walls or partitions, it is important to use insulating materials.
If solid fuel equipment is used, it is necessary to install a spark arrester made of metal.
If the chimney height is below 5m, then an electrically driven smoke exhauster is installed.
The external walls of the house at the location of the chimney structure are separated from it by a basalt lining or asbestos-cement sheet.

Do it yourself or order it?

You can only make a brick chimney yourself or a structure from an insulated single-layer steel pipe.

But laying smooth and beautiful walls of a brick pipe is more difficult than laying just a brick wall, and you must have the skills of an experienced mason. Single-layer pipes will have to be insulated; the quality of self-insulation is much worse than that of ready-made factory-made pipes.

You can independently install a chimney made of ceramics and sandwich pipes. It is impossible to manufacture elements of such chimneys on your own, but the industry produces many modules that allow you to assemble a pipeline of any design.

The question of whether to install a pipe yourself or hire a team of professionals is quite complicated.

Installing a chimney is quite a complex job, and it is worth thinking about and carefully assessing your capabilities: is it possible to take prefabricated scaffolding or scaffolding of the appropriate height, will you have assistants, do you have the skills to install building structures, how do you react to height.

Selecting the type of chimney outlet

There are two ways to remove the pipe:

leading the pipe outwards from the firebox in a straight line. Most of it ends up on the street.

by lifting the chimney from the stove and bringing it closer to the middle of the wall height or to the ceiling. Most of it is located indoors;

The second method is more economical and effective, because only one elbow is used to install the chimney structure, which improves draft. In addition, soot plugs are minimized.

Where to start when going through a wall

Purchasing a chimney

The purchased chimney pipe must correspond to the diagram developed before installation. The length of the chimney must also correspond to the calculated data. A height that is too low will create problems with draft; soot generated during the combustion process will constantly enter the room where the heating device is installed; a height that is too long, on the contrary, will cause accelerated combustion of the fuel, and as a result, additional heat will be released into the atmosphere.

Important! Experts note that the length of the gas exhaust system should range from 5 to 10 meters.

The kit of the purchased chimney, in addition to the standard fasteners, should include elbows, tees and, of course, pipes.

Determining the height of the chimney

The height of the chimney is an important indicator when choosing a design. The thrust and speed of gases moving out depends on it. To calculate the height of the chimney device, the following parameters should be taken into account:

height of the house. If the height of the house is small - 5 m, then the minimum size of the chimney structure is also 5.5 meters. When it is less than the proposed value, problems may arise: smoke in the building, carbon monoxide poisoning, decreased draft, wear and tear of the solid fuel boiler. In the case of a long pipe, the efficiency of the boiler installation is minimal. The optimal height of the chimney device is 5-10 m. If the house is high, more than 10 m, then the chimney should be located half a meter above the ridge to prevent turbulence;
boiler power. The higher the chimney device, the greater the power of the boiler equipment. For power below 20 kW, the chimney height is 5 m;
roofing material. If the roof materials are flammable, then the distance of the sandwich pipe to the ridge should not be less than a meter.

Building regulations

Chimneys are designed and installed in accordance with SP 60.13330.2012 “SNiP 41-01-2003. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning.”

Chimneys must meet the following requirements:

The height from the mouth to the grate must be at least 5 meters.
The internal channel should not have narrowed areas.
The height above the flat roof is at least 0.5 m (preferably 1 m).
Head height for pitched roof:

At a distance of less than 1.5 m from the ridge (parapet) - no lower than 0.5 m from the ridge.
If the distance to the ridge is from 1.5-3 m - not lower than the level of the ridge.
If the distance to the ridge is more than 3 m, the height should not be below a line drawn from the ridge at an angle of 10° to the horizontal (down from the horizontal).
When calculating, you should take into account not only the height of the ridge closest to the chimney, but also the height of the highest ridge of the building (or the highest part of the building).

Pipes may have inclined sections at an angle of at least 30° to the vertical, with a horizontal pipe displacement of no more than 1 m. The cross-sectional area of inclined sections should not be less than the cross-sectional area of horizontal sections.

Fire safety requirements for chimneys

The distance between the outer surface of brick or any other chimneys (with insulation) and the structures of walls and roof slabs must be at least 130 mm. The distance from the structures to the wooden wall must be at least 260 mm.

If the chimney in the area of the roof overhang passes close to rafters, sheathing and other combustible materials, the passage must be insulated with non-combustible materials.

The chimney of solid fuel, wood and peat heating devices must necessarily have a mesh spark arrestor with a mesh size of no more than 5x5 mm if the roof is covered with flammable materials (bitumen tiles, roofing felt, ondulin) or leaves fall on it. When installing a chimney in a wooden house, be sure to install a spark arrester.

Traction and height

The height of the hog is the main parameter that determines the traction force.

Other factors affecting traction force:

Sufficient insulation of the pipeline.
Smoothness of the walls of the chimney channel.
The thickness of the soot layer on the walls.
The presence of a head or deflector (which does not interfere with the free exit of smoke).
Air supply to the firebox.
Closing the canal with valves, condensate or ice frozen at the mouth.
Correctly selected internal cross-section.

How to choose a diameter

The diameter of the internal chimney channel must necessarily coincide with the diameter of the boiler outlet pipe (information from the heat generator’s passport).

In SP 7.13130.2013 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. Fire Safety Requirements" shows the cross-sectional dimensions of the internal channel depending on the power of the heat generator:

Up to 3.6 kW – 140×140 mm (diameter not less than 158 mm).
3.5-5.2 kW – 140×200 mm (diameter not less than 189 mm).
5.2-7.0 kW – 140×270 mm (diameter not less than 219 mm).

How to assemble a sandwich using smoke or condensation

There are two types of element assembly:

"by the smoke." In it, the lower part is included in the upper component. The upper part is put on top of the lower one. Both pipes are assembled in the same way. If the stove has a high combustion temperature, then this method is suitable;
"by condensate". The inner pipe is assembled as follows: the upper part is inserted inside the lower one. The outer pipe is mounted differently. The lower part is inserted inside the upper one. When assembling the sandwich, the condensate flows freely into the sump.

Installation

The installation of pipes begins by marking the passage through the wall. A horizontal monopipe without insulation is always attached to the heat generator pipe - the temperature of the exhaust gases in this place is high, the insulation will simply sinter and deform the pipe.

The length of the horizontal part should not exceed 1 m. Then the transition element is attached to the sandwich. During installation, the modules are simply inserted into one another. All joints of elements are tightened with special crimp clamps.

Then they make a passage through the wall, install a tee (through which condensate flows freely into the container), attach an element with an inspection, an element with a container for collecting condensate, and a plug.

Hole device

Before bringing the chimney through the wall, drill a hole in the wall. For this purpose, powerful hammer drills with special nozzles of large diameters are used, which do not drill, but rather cut out a piece of the wall. You can cut a hole in wooden walls.

To prevent each installer from inventing components and elements for passing the chimney through the wall, the designers came up with a special passage unit.

A special steel flange with a pipe or box inside the wall is installed on the wall - first the outer part, a pipe is passed through it, the distances are measured so that the pipe runs strictly horizontally and in the center of the pipe, the pipe is secured.

Attach the outer flange and fill the space between the pipe and the wall with insulation. Then the inner flange is attached. The flange on the outside (and inside as well) is sealed around the perimeter with a heat-resistant sealant.

Insulation with a sealant on the street side must also be waterproof - so that precipitation does not get into the gap and insulation, and does not cause the wall to soak and rot the wood.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a chimney through a wall

Let's look at the installation procedure.

For a boiler or stove, it is important to install a stove, non-flammable lining - a podium. You can pour a concrete screed to level the base.

The foundation for the stove, laid on top with bricks

Mark a place for the passage of the pipe and cut it out.

To prevent the wall from catching fire, a protective screen is placed in front of it; it can be made of mineralite. If the boiler is solid fuel, then the protective brick screen is separated from the wooden wall by an insulator - an asbestos-cement sheet.

The chimney is diverted from the pipe at a right angle. The horizontal section is not insulated. The high temperature of the area may cause the insulation to become deformed.

Horizontal thin-walled section of the chimney

Insulation is laid around the sandwich pipe.

Wall penetration

A metal plate is screwed on the outside to protect the wooden wall from overheating.

Mount the tee. It's designed this way. that water flows to the lower part.

Protective sheet PPU and tee

They put up a support.

In some cases, the chimney is supported on a blind area or a separate foundation.

Support for low walls

The chimney is expanded “by condensate”.

Attaching the chimney to the wall with your own hands is done using brackets. The step of their location on the wall is 1 m. Fastening clamps secure the upper part of the gas exhaust pipe.

Mount a deflector or umbrella.

Umbrella

The joints are sealed with high-temperature sealant. We recommend using silicate sealants that can withstand temperatures of 1200 degrees. They have a black or black-gray color and a viscous consistency, harden within 15 minutes after application.

Internal chimney through the roof: advantages

A chimney installed indoors from a heating device upward through the floors and roof is called internal and is most widespread. The main thing in this matter is to plan such a smoke removal route in advance, at the very initial stages of building construction.

Advantages of an internal chimney:

the most stable and good traction
absence of external factors that can damage the structure
insulation of the chimney and, accordingly, eliminating the possibility of overcooling of smoke and gases with subsequent formation of condensate
independence from climatic and weather conditions
no wind load
no heat loss
no violations of the integrity and insulation of the external walls of the building
longer service life
the possibility of saving on fasteners, since they can be used to fasten the structure of the house itself, and also use inexpensive fasteners due to the absence of load on them by external factors
easier installation and maintenance

Disadvantages of an internal chimney:

violation of the tightness of the roof and the need to dismantle some load-bearing structures in cases where the chimney route was not included in the original house construction plan
higher level of fire hazard due to the location of the pipe inside the house
the need to insulate all areas where the pipe adjoins the walls and where the pipe passes through the ceiling, ceiling and roof
use of useful living space
risk of smoke in the room if the pipe is damaged

Attention! When organizing a smoke exhaust system inside a house, it is important to pay special attention to insulating all surfaces and pipe passages.

When pipes are heated, the surrounding areas, especially those made of flammable materials, may begin to smolder or catch fire. It is strongly recommended not to skimp on the quality of insulating materials and to install them in accordance with all established rules. You should also maintain safe distances between the chimney and surrounding areas of walls, ceilings or roofs.

Do-it-yourself chimney installation

The passage of the chimney through the wall with your own hands is carried out exactly according to the instructions. If you know the nuances of construction, are not afraid of heights, and know how to use working tools and equipment, then you can do it.

Drawing and diagrams

Before purchasing materials and starting work, it is necessary to draw a drawing or develop a diagram of the location of structural elements, their sizes, and the distances between them. It is important to determine the list of tools and components needed for independent work. Consultants in stores that sell stainless steel sandwich pipes of well-known and proven brands that are not produced in artisanal conditions can help with this. These include CRAFT, BALTVENT, TERMOFOR, TEPLOV and SUKHOV, VULCANO, FERRUM, PHOENIX and others.

Selecting a place to exit through the wall

The side wall is located under the roof overhang. It gets water from icicles and rain if there are no special gutters. The front wall is located under the roof overhang. Water does not enter the pipe.

It is best to display the structure through the front wall. It is important that there is no balcony or windows under the ledge, so that you do not have to go around them when installing the structure. Any deviation from the vertical is fraught with a decrease in traction.

The device can also exit through the side wall. This solution is much worse, because you will have to make a hole in the roof overhang, assemble and install a drainage system to avoid flooding the sandwich pipe sleeve, getting the insulation wet, and heating the chimney.

Features and installation rules

The installation process is preceded by calculating the required boiler power, determining the optimal pipe diameter, as well as the thickness of the heat-insulating layer.

Preparatory stage

First of all, it is necessary to take into account that the diameter of the inner pipe must be no less than the diameter of the pipe on the boiler.

The boiler is selected according to the volume to be heated, and only then the components for the chimney are taken for it.

If the diameter of the pipe exceeds the diameter of the pipe, an adapter is installed between them.

Experts recommend installing pipes of a certain diameter, taking into account the power of the boiler:

Boiler power	Pipe diameter
up to 3.5 kW	8 cm;
from 3.5 to 5.2 kW	9.5-11 cm
over 5.2 kW	more than 11 cm.

You should also take into account the thickness of the thermal insulation layer.

At an operating temperature of 250 degrees, like a gas boiler, the basalt layer should be 3 cm.

For wood and liquid fuel boilers with an operating temperature of 400 degrees - already 5 cm.

Note! For solid fuel boilers on coal, where the temperature reaches 850 degrees, the basalt layer must be at least 10 cm, and not all brands of heat insulator can withstand such a high temperature.

Installation of a chimney

There are two options for venting the chimney through the wall:

pipes inside the room are raised a short distance from the ceiling, where they are brought outside;
From the boiler nozzle, pipes immediately lead horizontally through the wall. This method is good because it produces fewer elbows, and this has a positive effect on the performance of the chimney.

When installing the vertical part of the chimney, the sandwich pipe can be assembled in two versions - “smoke” or “condensate”.

When installing a pipe along the smoke, gas and combustion products rise upward, but a problem arises with the formation of condensation, which accumulates in the pipe, and sometimes, if the pipe is poorly sealed, can leak through the joints. This method is used when assembling a chimney through the roof, while most of the pipe is in the house, and significantly less condensation is formed.
The method in which the pipe is turned upside down with the wide end up is called condensate installation. With this assembly, condensate flows freely through the pipe into the glass. The disadvantage of this option is that smoke can seep into poorly sealed openings at the joints.

Note! The condensate assembly is used when the chimney is exhausted through the wall: in this case, the condensate ends up in a glass, and the smoke comes out of the joints on the street, which, in principle, is not critical and does not pose a danger to the life and health of the residents of the house.

Basic rules for installing a chimney through a wall

In order for the chimney to work efficiently, it is important to follow the installation rules, on which not only the functionality of the structure depends, but also its safety.

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Basic Rules:

It is important to remember that the pipe must rise above the ridge by at least half a meter, preferably a meter, otherwise the draft will be very weak.
The total length of the vertical part of the pipe is ideally from 5 to 10 meters; if the pipe rises to a large height, the draft will be too strong and the fuel will instantly burn out. If the pipe is too short, the draft will be insufficient, which will also negatively affect the operation of the boiler or furnace.
The first segment of the chimney, in order to avoid melting of the heat insulator, comes from a single-circuit pipe. Having retreated a distance sufficient to avoid overheating of the fasteners during operation, a joint is made with the sandwich pipe.
The boiler is installed on a sheet of metal or some other non-flammable material. The wall is insulated from the boiler in the same way. For wooden houses, according to SNiP, the boiler and chimney should be kept at a distance of at least 45 cm from building elements that can catch fire, and 25 cm from elements made of low-flammable materials. To make the outlet hole for the pipe not too large, the wood is sheathed with metal, and in this case the outlet hole may be not 45, but 25 cm.
A metal box is mounted into the resulting hole, through which a pipe is passed, without any connections, because they will then be difficult to reach if necessary. The cavities in the wall are filled with heat insulator that is not subject to combustion.
The hole for the pipe is sewn up with a metal sheet from the outside and inside. Next, a support platform for the chimney is attached to the outside of the building using brackets, and a tee is placed on the outlet section of the pipe. The bottom of the pipe is removable, made in the shape of a glass and is intended for the condensate that forms. Often the glass is equipped with a tap and a drainage hose connected to it. Condensation is very toxic, so you definitely shouldn’t drain it near your home.
The chimney at the top is also secured using brackets located at a distance of no more than a meter from each other. To protect against precipitation, a cap is placed on top of the pipe.
To seal the joints well, they are coated with heat-resistant sealant, after which the joint is additionally tightened with a clamp.

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What to pay special attention to:

It is important not to allow the chimney to come into contact with electricity, gas pipelines, water supply or drainage.
Horizontal sections of pipe should not exceed a length of 1 meter.
During installation, it is necessary to achieve a strictly vertical position of the chimney; control can be carried out using a plumb line or a building level.
The joints of the structure should not be positioned so that they coincide with the fastening on the brackets.

Possible installation errors

Installation errors affect the correct operation of the chimney. Let's look at some of them to prevent their occurrence.

If the insulation of the passage through the wall is carried out poorly and the amount of heat-insulating materials is minimal, then the structure will overheat.
If there is no low tide on the roof overhang, there is a risk of water flooding the insulation materials and compromising their integrity and functioning.
Incorrectly calculated height of the chimney device impairs draft.

In addition, we recommend using high-quality sandwiches. In cheap and low-quality pipes, the materials are short-lived. Over time, the insulation shrinks and loses its positive qualities. Local overheating creates a dangerous fire situation.

General conditions for passing through a wall

In fact, the arrangement of a passage through a wall or through a roof can be done at the design stage. That is, the designer has every opportunity to include in the documentation the junction of the chimney through the wall. At the same time, he must and will be guided by the requirements of GOST, SNiP and SP for fire safety. Thus, the homeowner can be confident that this unit will be completely safe.

When crossing a wall, it is necessary to take into account that there should be no engineering structures near the pipe that are unprotected from heat. The minimum distance to them should be about 400 mm. If it is not possible to ensure this distance, then measures must be taken to additionally insulate the pipe.

The diagram illustrates how to pass a sandwich pipe through a wall

Passage through the wall of a log structure

Before laying a chimney through a wall made of logs or timber, it is necessary to prepare a hole. If the building is just being built, then, directly when assembling the crowns of the log house, using a gas or electric saw, cut a piece of log or timber in the laid crown. Its size must exceed the diameter of the chimney.

If you decide to go through the wall using a round hole, then before you start making it, it makes sense to drill a center hole; its presence will allow you to drill using core drills or “ballerina drills”.

Note: When arranging a junction through the wall of a frame-panel house, it makes sense to perform preliminary drilling and then mark it. The hole can be made using a ballerina or an electric jigsaw.

Passage through the wall of a building made of logs is carried out in the following ways:

you can use a telescopic unit, that is, several pipes made of heat-insulating material and with a diameter exceeding the chimney. In this case, the pipes must be inserted into each other;
the chimney can be routed through the wall, without the use of additional pipes, but the space between the walls and it must be lined with thermal insulation materials, such as basalt wool.

Passage through a brick wall

For arranging a passage through a wall built of brick or blocks with different fillers. Before carrying out its penetration, it is necessary to carry out markings. For these purposes, it is advisable to use a laser measuring tool. In this case, errors will be minimized. When making a hole, you must remember that such deformation of the load-bearing wall can lead to the appearance of cracks. Therefore, builders must take measures to prevent their formation, for example, install a pre-prepared frame in it, which will prevent the wall structure from sagging.

The installation itself is carried out in several operations:
a pipe must be installed at the outlet of the boiler;
install a tee with a valve built into it;
After installing the tee, pass a sandwich pipe through a pre-prepared hole and connect it to the tee.

The space around the pipe must be filled with fireproof material. It is necessary to install shields at the entrance and exit of the pipe to cover the transition. This shield can be made in several modifications, for example, it can be made of an asbestos sheet and a sheet of stainless or galvanized steel attached to it on top.

Subsequently, the chimney can be assembled like a children's construction set. After the wall has been passed, work begins on attaching the chimney to the wall.

The homeowner, when installing a chimney from sandwich pipes with his own hands, must understand that assembling a gas exhaust system is a very responsible undertaking and the safety of the building structure and the residents living in it largely depends on it.

Features of maintenance and care

The structure is checked annually for mechanical damage. The garage chimney needs to be cleaned every six months. For this purpose, brushes or chemicals that dissolve soot are used. The mechanical option is more effective, but is unacceptable for stainless steel. In this case, you are allowed to use a hook.

Before the start of the heating season, the tightness of all chimney connections is checked. To prevent the appearance of soot on the inner walls of the pipe, you can use aspen firewood. Special chemicals used to treat logs can dissolve soot. This method is safe for a metal pipe.

If the product has through-hole damage, it must be replaced. They will lead to a decrease in draft and smoke entering the room.

If you correctly build and operate chimneys from a profile pipe for potbelly stoves, the heating structure will fully perform its functions. It is necessary to follow the rules for operating the structure.

Source

What are chimneys?

The installation of a smoke exhaust structure is quite complex, so most owners of country houses seek the professional services of craftsmen practicing in this field. But, with some skills, you can do the work yourself. In addition, there are a lot of modular configurations on sale today, the installation of which is not difficult.

The internal smoke removal system makes it possible to use fuel with maximum efficiency, since thermal energy is released along the entire length of the pipe. But its installation is complicated by the fact that it is necessary to make additional holes in the ceiling and roof. All gaps at the junctions of structural elements must be carefully sealed to prevent leaks and destruction of the structure.

The external design is the simplest, so each owner can personally carry out all the work using the recommendations below. An undoubted advantage is the reduction in the risk of leaks. To reduce heat losses, you will need to insulate the chimney. The compact size allows you to install heating devices even in a small room. The only drawback is higher fuel consumption.

Chimney laying

Scheme

The first thing you need to do is to carefully read the chimney diagram and understand how each of its rows is laid. You can choose one of many diagrams - preferably the one on which everything will be extremely clear. When laying a regular brick stove, the order for a standard brick chimney is suitable.

One of the most common chimney arrangements

Construction of the superstructure

When installing the top pipe, the laying of the furnace structure itself ends 50-60 centimeters before the ceiling, and then the actual construction of the chimney duct begins. This diagram shows two options for laying a chimney: square and rectangular.

According to the scheme of the first row, the neck of the chimney is erected before cutting. In each subsequent row, the bricks are laid in such a way that the middle of the brick overlaps the seam between the bricks of the previous row.

Having laid out three or four rows according to this pattern of the first row, the removal of the fluff of the pipe begins.

This is what the fluff looks like...

The figure of the second row clearly shows that the bricks are laid with a shift to the outer side by one third of the brick. To perfectly fit the piece material, you will have to use the division of a solid brick into two or three parts lengthwise or crosswise.

... and this is her order

With all this, you need to remember that the chimney channel must maintain its original cross-section, since the point of thickening its walls is to increase the safety of the closure during operation. Moreover, the narrowing or expansion of the internal cavity can negatively affect draft during combustion.

The third, fourth and fifth rows of fluff are also laid out with a shift to the outside, maintaining the lumen of the channel.
The sixth row is the same size as the fifth row and is laid out flush with the outer and inner edges of the smoke channel wall.
The seventh and eighth rows are laid out according to the pattern of the first row.

Having finished laying the fluff, you can move on to working on the otter, and here you need to try very hard, since each row forms another step and protrudes outward, by one third.

Otter order

The first row is laid the same size as the last row of fluff.
From the second row they begin to lay out the first step, and the chimney expands to the outside.
Next, following the diagram, the remaining eight rows are laid out.

After completing the laying of the otter, the neck of the pipe is laid out, which is laid out according to the scheme of the first row to the top two rows of the cap, where the brick is also laid with a protrusion to the outside.

Expert advice

Before purchasing the necessary materials for arranging an external chimney, the power of the equipment is determined. It affects the diameter of the pipes. You can also use these expert tips:

if the heating equipment is equipped with forced draft, then it is not necessary to increase the vertical section of the structure; it is enough to remove the horizontal pipe;
a horizontal section that is too long helps slow down the smoke flow (the value should not exceed 1-1.5 m);

Rules for installing chimney pipesSource krovgid.com

Inspection holes are installed not only on the outer part of the structure, but also on the internal horizontal element.

A few words about pipes

In one article it is quite difficult to pay broad attention to such a topic as the design of an external chimney. Firstly, it has many nuances, and, secondly, such an article will be incredibly large and inconvenient to read

That is why I will now give only a general overview, and I will address all questions on individual points that you have in separate publications. Although today there is already material on a similar topic. So, the outer pipe can be made of several materials.

Such arrangement of the hood will become as convenient as possible for people who want to organize a fireplace in their home. After all, this design is considered the most optimal for a fireplace. Although, it may be suitable for a bathhouse (it all depends on your capabilities and desires). But it is worth noting that it requires certain skills to install it correctly (which we will talk about in other articles).

An ordinary stainless steel pipe.

The simplest and most cost-effective option for organizing this type of chimney. After all, the main difficulty in its manufacture will be making a hole in the wall for the outlet pipe. But there are certain difficulties here, namely the need for external insulation (especially in low temperature conditions). After all, its absence will significantly affect the draft due to excessive accumulation of condensate. The stove simply does not want to be heated and will smoke heavily.

Pipe sandwich.

In fact, this is an ideal option for installing an external chimney, both in a bathhouse and in a wooden house. Consisting of two sleeves placed inside each other, between which factory thermal insulation is already provided, such a pipe is extremely easy to install and efficient in operation. It is for this reason that I would recommend using it when installing a chimney through a wall in your room.

There is also such

Ceramic pipe

It can withstand the highest temperatures, but at the same time requires the most complex installation and insulation. In addition, it is distinguished by its rather high cost and relative fragility.