How to tile a stove: step-by-step instructions

Covering a stove with ceramic tiles with your own hands is not such an easy task, but if you wish and take a careful approach to this process, it is quite doable. Tidying up the walls of a brick kiln is done if the plaster previously applied to them begins to peel off, or if the brickwork, which is not covered by anything, looks sloppy.

Do-it-yourself oven cladding with ceramic tiles

This process becomes especially relevant when a major renovation is planned in the room where the stove is installed. You can, of course, remove the old cladding and plaster the surfaces with a new layer of mortar, but such a finish will still look “boring.” Therefore, quite often plaster is combined with tiles or the walls are completely finished with ceramic tiles of one type or another.

It is also important that often the ceramic layer can perform not only a decorative function - it becomes an additional heat accumulator and an effective source of thermal infrared radiation.

Calculation of the number of tiles

To do this you need to know a few things:

the total area of all oven surfaces on which the tiles will be laid;
the dimensions of possible areas with a narrow decorative layer of ceramics;
dimensions of ceramic tiles.

To calculate the area, you will need to subtract the dimensions of the blower doors, combustion chamber, and gaps between finishing parts. For furnace cladding, it is recommended to make gaps of up to 10 mm.

If you plan to make a narrow finishing belt, make barriers and other decorations, the area of such a layer is taken into account in the calculation. Now knowing the dimensions of the tiles, we can easily calculate the number of tiles of the main layer and decorative belt.

We divide the total surface area by the area of 1 tile and get the number of parts required to complete the work. If the doors on the firebox and ash pan are small, they can not be subtracted from the total area. For reserve, it is recommended to increase the number of tiles by 20% of the calculated value.

Fastening tiles without glue

Another interesting option that you can do with your own hands, even without experience in tiling, is to cover the stove with tiles without glue. The fastening is done using homemade galvanized corners. This is complex and painstaking work, but the costs will be minimal.

Example of finished cladding

Any ceramic tile, in this example the size is 10x10 cm. It is sold in 30*20 cm modules, so you will need to separate them with your own hands.
Galvanized sheet, thickness 0.5 mm.
Aluminum corner 20*20, thickness 2 mm.
Aluminum strip 20 mm, usually sold in 3 meters.

The simplest ceramic tiles 10x10 cm are used.

Making corners for fastening

The longest and most difficult job is to make the corners with your own hands. They will be J-shaped to hold the tiles in place at the top and bottom, like a frame.

We cut the galvanization into strips of 44 mm. You will need to make a corner from these blanks.
To bend them, we make a simple device from a block with a 6 mm metal plate screwed on. It is screwed on with a small protrusion (3 mm).
The dimensions of the corner are shown in the diagram. We set the workpiece on the fixture according to size and clamp it with clamps.

Dimensions and location of corners

Give the plate the desired shape using a mallet

Fastening tiles

Along the perimeter of the stove, a frame is made of aluminum corners. They will serve as the basis for attaching horizontal aluminum strips.
In addition, intermediate aluminum vertical plates are attached to the corners.
Homemade corners are attached to the plates using 6*3.2 mm tear rivets. To do this, you will first need to drill holes. One corner will look in one direction, the second - in the other.
The space between the rows is made according to the width of the ceramic tiles, but taking into account a couple of mm of margin so that they can be easily inserted and pulled out.
When all the corners are installed, the ceramic tiles are inserted from the side into the resulting frame. The end is then closed with a corner.

Inserting ceramic tiles into the frame

Tile requirements

To get acquainted, we will analyze the main types of tiles and the criteria for their selection. It is recommended to use several types of finishing materials for lining heating units and fireplaces:

"Majolica". Such tiles can be found on old stoves. Ceramics covered with a layer of special heat-resistant enamel - the high price does not make it popular among the population;
Terracotta tiles are a simple version of majolica. It is made from clay, due to its properties it is not subject to deformation from high temperatures, and is resistant to cracking and mechanical damage. It is successfully used as a finishing for stoves in garden houses with seasonal heating and long breaks in work. This finish will protect the stove from dampness and cracking.
Clinker tiles are an alternative to refractory bricks. The composition includes several types of clay with the addition of fireclay and various dyes. The finished mixture is pressed under high pressure, then fired;
The use of porcelain stoneware increases the service life of the stove finish. It is made from different types of clay with the addition of granite, marble and binding additives. The thermal properties of the material make it possible to reliably protect the stove surfaces and give them a beautiful appearance.

Any tile must meet several requirements, which we must pay attention to when choosing finishing materials:

Surfaces must be smooth, without cracks or chips.
Individual parts of the series must be painted the same color. If even the color tone is different, it is not recommended to buy such products. It could be a defect or a fake.
Each part must be geometrically smooth, maintaining right angles. To check, place several tiles on the surface and join them together. If there are the slightest gaps or the slab does not adhere to the surface, it may be a mismatch or a fake.
We make sure to check the seller’s quality certificate for the product, which should indicate the environmental safety class and other performance characteristics.

Cladding without glue

The good thing about carrying out installation work without glue is that such cladding has a number of undeniable advantages. It will not react to temperature changes, and the air cushion formed between the tile and the wall will perfectly retain hot air. When installing using the “dry” method, it is important to take accurate measurements and manufacture frame elements. The structure will consist of a frame created from metal profiles into which the material is laid. First, the furnace wall is marked along the upper and lower parts.

Then the space obtained inside is divided by horizontal lines, the size of which is 3 - 4 mm. The inter-tile profiles will be fastened along them. The lines are marked with a cord painted with blue. The baseboard will be attached to the surface of the walls and floor. It is made from galvanized metal sheets or purchased ready-made. To make a plinth with your own hands, you need to cut a strip equal to the height of the plinth plus 15 - 20 mm. The metal sheet should not be thicker than 1 - 1 mm. To make a bend that will extend onto the floor, the strip is placed on a metal table or fixture. The workpiece is fastened, leaving an outer protrusion of no more than 15 - 20 mm. You need to tap it with a mallet.

The finished plinth is fastened using anchors. Then they cut off part of the corner, which will be installed along the top marking line. It will hold vertically located elements on the surface. Metal strips are attached through already installed perforated corners. They must run vertically; a distance of 250–300 mm must be maintained between them. Their role is to install supporting profiles.

To make profiles into which the tiles will then be placed, strips of about 44 mm wide and a length equal to the width of the wall are cut. They require galvanized metal sheets. Manufacturing is carried out using a device - a sheet bender made of timber with a metal plate. The strip of the future profile is laid on the edge of the device with a mandatory protrusion outward at a distance of about 3 mm. At the final stage, the workpiece is fixed with clamps and bent with a mallet.

The tiles in a properly made profile should move easily inside. Proper installation of profiles is carried out from the baseboard. After the frame for several rows is installed, the material is installed in them. Next, the joints at the corners are closed. Corners should be placed around the cooking chamber. Rounded overlays are mounted on external corners. To carry out this type of work you need self-tapping screws. The inside walls of the cooking chamber are lined with stainless steel sheets. To enhance the effect, the surface can be coated with a special black paint that has heat-resistant characteristics.

What glue should I use to glue tiles to the stove?

Having chosen a tile, you need to select a composition to securely fix it on the walls. To answer the question: how to glue tiles to the stove, we follow several recommendations:

it is better to purchase a ready-made composition so as not to perform complex calculations on the amount of materials;
we select glue produced for lining fireplaces or stoves;
It is recommended to use heat-resistant mastic “Standard” with a heating temperature level of 10,000. We take into account the material consumption of 1.5 kg per 1 m2;
glue “Plitonit – SupenrKamin” is produced using a dry mixture, which we dilute before work;
Atlas-Plus hardens within a few hours. Consumption rate 2 kg per 1 m2;
“Fixator” adhesive is recommended for use when lining garden house stoves. It can withstand high temperatures during furnace operation and cold during long breaks.

Some subtleties of plastering a stove with a mixture of sand and clay

When plastering stoves with your own hands, it is important to take into account several main points, on which the quality of the work largely depends:

It is not recommended to plaster a newly erected stove. The structure must go through the drying and shrinking stage. For this purpose, the stove must be heated regularly for 2-3 months, after which finishing work can begin.
It is best to paint plastered stove walls with water-based paints. The use of other formulations may cause the release of harmful substances and unpleasant odors.
All materials used to decorate stove walls must have a natural base so as not to pose a danger to human health.

All the methods described for plastering a stove cannot be called simple for independent use. Therefore, in the absence of initial knowledge and experience, it is better to entrust the plastering of a brick stove to professional craftsmen. In this case, you can get a high-quality result and avoid unnecessary consumption of materials.

Materials and tools

In order to glue tiles to the stove, we will prepare the required materials and tools according to the list:

tiles or other type of material with a reserve;
mounting mesh or just chain-link;
hammers with rubber and metal strikers;
hammer drill with chisel;
ready-made glue that can withstand high temperatures;
device for cutting tiles;
spatulas;
building level;
devices for protecting the corners of the furnace;
special primer;
ready-made or home-made parts for setting equal gaps between the cladding;
heat-resistant grouting.

Photo report on plastering the stove

In this case, the master used a reinforcing mesh: the brick had many cracks, and the small cell simultaneously reinforces the masonry. First, the old finish is cleaned off, everything is removed, down to the bare brick. The seams deepen approximately 1 cm.

The entire finish of the stove is knocked down, right down to the brick.

The seams are deepened, the surface is cleaned

The surface is cleaned of dust - first with a broom, then with a thick brush. Then the mesh is fixed.

The mesh on the stove will prevent the plaster from falling

The mesh is attached at intervals to nails driven into the seams. Use soft burnt wire

To ensure that the surface of the oven is level, beacons are placed. Standard galvanized or stainless steel construction beacons are used. Plastering on them is carried out as usual. Only first the composition is applied and leveled around the casting, and then the entire surface is tightened.

First they plaster around the casting

The stoves are plastered over the beacons, as usual

The composition for plaster is as follows: 1 part cement, 2 parts mountain sand, 2 parts river sand, 200 grams of salt. Clay is not added at all, because it dries out too much, causing cracks to appear.

Before starting work, the oven is well wetted so that it is moist during operation. The kiln is not heated until the cement has fully gained strength (28 days).

After the plaster has dried, you can glue the tiles (using heat-resistant tile adhesive), paint, whitewash, do whatever you like.

Finishing the stove with tiles can be bright

Preparing the furnace for cladding

At this stage, you will need to perform a number of auxiliary works:

We clean the surfaces of the oven from the mortar and layer of plaster. We cut the seams between the bricks to a depth of 10 mm, for better fixation of the tiles on the surfaces. If you used a solution of clay and sand, you can put a metal brush on the grinder, but there will be a lot of dust;
Removing traces of paint. If the surface is completely painted, you can make shallow cuts with a chisel or grinder;
We attach the mounting grid to all planes.

Installation process: step-by-step instructions

Let's consider the technology of laying ceramic tiles step by step.

1. Prepare the work surface for laying new material. If the oven is covered with a layer of paint, remove it with a wire brush along with dust and dirt. If the stove is covered with tiles, remove them using a chisel, moving from top to bottom.

It is not advisable to break old tiles, as this may damage the brick from which the stove is built. After cleaning the stove from the old coating, it is necessary to deepen the masonry joints by 0.5-1 cm (to improve the adhesion of the mortar).

2. To ensure that the new tile holds firmly and does not peel off over time, we level the walls of the oven using a metal mesh with cells no larger than 15x15 cm. We fix the mesh on the work surface with tension - a ceiling dowel is quite suitable for these purposes. After this, we treat the stove surface with plaster - we use a solution based on sand, clay and cement in a ratio of 0.2: 3: 1. The final preparatory step is primer. It is advisable to use a heat-resistant, high-quality mixture.

Methods for cutting tiles

In order to cover the stove, the tiles have to be adjusted to size. There are several tools you can use for this job:

To cut simple, thin tiles, you will need a simple glass cutter. We trim the layer of glaze and then break the tile, laying it on a flat surface;
electric jigsaw. This tool can cut any types of materials and shapes of parts. But the file leaves chips, even gluing tape to the front surface does not help;
grinder with diamond blade. This tool can make smooth, straight cuts on any type of tile. To do this, mark the cutting line and lay the part on a flat surface. First, we do not deepen the disk, remove the layer of glaze along the entire line and only then cut off the part;
tile cutter It is used by professional tilers; if it is possible to rent it, this will be the best tool option. The cuts are smooth, the front part does not crumble. Simply lay the tiles along the line, run the cutting tool and you can lay the tiles in place;
for larger cutting sizes, after cutting with a glass cutter, you can gradually chip off pieces of tile using sharp tongs or wire cutters.

Cladding a brick oven with tiles using a special adhesive composition

Before moving on to the description of the process of installing tiles on the walls of the furnace, a few minutes of attention should be paid to adhesive compositions suitable for this purpose. In addition, the rather complex process of cutting ceramic tiles requires lighting, since incorrect actions are quite capable of ruining the entire work.

What kind of glue is needed for tiling the stove?

The adhesive composition used for laying tiles on the walls of a brick kiln must have special characteristics, as it will be exposed to high temperatures.

As an example: packaging of a special dry construction mixture - heat-resistant adhesive for lining stoves

Some tilers prefer to make up the adhesive solution according to their own recipes. For example, one of them is quite simple. The mixture is made up of Portland cement, PVA glue and a small amount of salt. However, the difficulty in creating such glue options lies precisely in the correct selection of proportions. Therefore, if there is no accumulated experience in this matter, then it is best to use a ready-made dry composition, sold in hardware stores in paper packaging. All the necessary ingredients have already been added to this glue, and all that remains is to add the required amount of water and mix until it becomes a homogeneous plastic mass.

Experienced tilers also add a little salt to the finished adhesive composition, as it accumulates moisture, not allowing it to completely evaporate quickly from the solution, maintaining the plasticity of the mixture.

Ceramic tile cutting

Ceramic tiles have a very high hardness, so they are not easy to cut, especially in cases where it is necessary to cut out complex shapes. In order not to spoil the material already during cladding, it is recommended to study in advance information about the technology of correct cutting so that you get a smooth edge without protrusions and burrs. Better yet, practice on some unnecessary fragments to get better at it.

The simplest and most convenient option for cutting in a straight line is to use a special tile cutter

It is recommended to cut ceramic tiles using a special manual machine called a tile cutter. A glass cutter for thick glass may work, and often the optimal solution for this process is a grinder with a stone disc mounted on it.

The grinder allows you to cut out corner pieces of tiles if necessary.

Terracotta tiles, which are often used for lining stoves, are usually cut only with a grinding machine.

If the work will be done with a tile cutter, then it needs to be prepared:

First, the reliability of the roller cutter is checked. It should rotate well around the axis, but not move from side to side. If such a problem is identified, the wheel must be firmly secured with a bolt.
A few drops of machine oil are dripped onto the guide frame and cutting roller.
It is imperative to check how sharp the cutting edge of the roller is - perhaps the cutter needs to be replaced. This becomes necessary from time to time, especially if the tile cutter has previously been used intensively.
A properly adjusted tile cutter can cut tiles 4÷8 mm thick.

The cutting procedure itself is carried out in the following order:

The first step is to take measurements from the area where the tiles are to be installed.
Then, the tiles themselves are marked taking into account the width of the seams. The lines on the tile are drawn using a marker.
Before cutting, the tile must be securely fixed in the tile cutter, so that the cut line marked on it is under the cutting edge of the cutter roller, along the line of its translational movement
The next step is to apply pressure with a roller along the marking line. The marked groove will determine the fault line, cutting the front surface of the tile.
Then a special lever with claws is lowered, which will divide the tile in two.

When using a grinding machine for cutting, for the safety of the master and the formation of a neat cut edge, it is recommended to firmly hold or secure the tile on a flat horizontal surface with an overhang of the part to be cut.

In addition to the above tools, a manual tile cutter is also used for cutting tiles, which also has the function of nippers. The principle of operation is similar: a groove is drawn with a roller, and then, when the handles are compressed, the paws break the tile in two. However, you need to remember that thick, for example, floor tiles, cannot be cut with this tool. In addition, the likelihood of possible failures is much higher than when working with a desktop tile cutter.

Prices for tile adhesive

tile adhesive

The simplest manual tile cutter, which, however, may not cope with high-quality cutting of thick ceramic tiles

When using a regular glass cutter to cut ceramic tiles, you will have to make additional efforts to deepen the fault line and separate the tiles into two parts.

Therefore, for quick and accurate work, it is recommended to use a tile cutter, which is safe and easy to use. If the farm doesn’t have one, then you should try to rent it - many hardware stores offer a similar service.

Covering the stove with tiles fixed with glue

Now that the preparatory work has been done, and you know which glue is best to use, as well as how to cut the tiles to the desired size, you can proceed directly to the finishing work.

According to the master’s plan, the stove is finished using a combined technology - plastering and cladding with terracotta tiles are used

In this case, a combined finishing option is presented, when terracotta ceramic tiles are combined with a plastered and painted surface.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	In order for the tile laying to go smoothly, it is necessary to perfectly align the horizontal of its first row. This cannot be done by eye, since even small deviations in the lower part of the cladding will turn into significant visible distortions of the masonry located above. Therefore, you first need to determine the bottom line along which the alignment will be carried out. In any case, the building level will come to the rescue. If a line needs to be marked on the long side of a structure, the easiest way to do this is with a paint cord. On the narrow side of the oven, a ruler or rule may be sufficient. Typically, such a line is marked along the upper edge of the bottom row of tiles.
It would be safer to attach a special perforated aluminum L-shaped profile along the bottom edge of the first row, which will serve as a stand for the tiles and will definitely prevent them from deviating from the markings or sliding down. The corner is fixed to the furnace wall with dowels installed in increments of 200÷250 mm. The size of the corner depends on the thickness of the tile - it should not protrude above the finished surface. If the tiles are laid from the floor, and the corner is fixed at the junction of two surfaces, then its size will not matter - the main thing is that it is level. Instead of an aluminum corner, a flat wooden strip can be used, which can be simply dismantled after the glue has dried in the masonry.
Next, you can start laying. Cladding is usually done from the corner of the building. If the tile set includes corner elements, then there will be no problems with placing the corners, since they will be completely protected from damage, and possible irregularities will be hidden. First, corner elements are laid at both corners of the structure, and only after they are secured, tiles are installed to fill the space between them. If necessary, one or two of them are trimmed. Each row laid horizontally must be checked with a building level.
If the kit does not include corner tiles, then in order for the corner of the stove to be neat, another perforated corner profile with a rounded protruding edge is attached to it. This element is also secured to the corner of the stove with dowels, which are installed at a distance of 250÷350 mm from each other. They often do without them, so as not to damage the corners of the brick - the perforated “wings” of the profile are simply recessed into the applied mortar. One of the options for such a profile is shown in the illustration.
To ensure that the horizontal and vertical seams between the rows of tiles are the same, various devices are used. You can use special crosses or, as in this case, pieces of broken unnecessary tiles installed between the masonry elements. The main thing is that they are all the same thickness.
The adhesive, mixed using a mixer, can be applied to the surface of the stove using a notched trowel, or to the tile itself. When installing the tiles on the wall, press them well and immediately insert plastic crosses or other calibration devices into the seams. Do not forget that the glued tiles can be leveled and adjusted only within 10-12 minutes, while the mixture has not yet set. The adhesive mortar that has protruded into the masonry joints must be removed immediately, without waiting for it to dry, since these gaps between the tiles must be filled with a more plastic grout mortar. The calibration elements are removed only after the glue has set and the tile can no longer be accidentally moved.
If you plan to clad the walls with solid masonry, then after installing 5-6 rows, it is recommended to take a break for several hours so that the glue sets well and the lower rows become a reliable support for the upper ones. After maintaining such a technological pause, you can complete the lining of the furnace with tiles. But they start filling the seams only a day after laying the last row.
If a combined design option is chosen for the furnace walls, then after gluing the tiles, after just one or two hours you can start transforming the plastered surface.
The first step is to cover all non-tiled surfaces with putty. This process is carried out using spatulas - narrow and wide. The putty is applied in a thin layer, and its function is to make the surfaces smooth, thereby preparing them for painting.
For this stage of work, heat-resistant putty for stoves and fireplaces is used, which is most often sold ready-made in plastic buckets.
Having covered all plastered surfaces with putty, you need to leave the oven for one or two days for all layers of preliminary finishing to dry completely.
Further, if terracotta tiles were used for finishing, it is recommended to varnish them, giving them a brighter color.
A clear stone varnish is used for this process.
The next step is to paint the rest of the surface, covered with putty. For this purpose, brushes of different widths are used. Painting must be done carefully, without touching the plane of the tile. It may be worth considering temporary protection of ceramic tiles from accidental contamination - using masking tape, old newspapers, etc.
Radiator enamel, designed for increased heating and temperature changes, is suitable for painting. If desired, you can add color to the white paint and varnish composition, giving a shade that will harmonize well with the glued tiles.
Next, move on to filling the seams. The grout composition is matched to the color of the tiles or painted surfaces. The joints can be filled with grout using a construction syringe, or it can be pushed into the cavities between the tiles using a rubber spatula. The first option will allow this process to be completed faster, and the filling will be neat and will not touch the tile surfaces. You can make something like a syringe yourself - put the grouting compound in a thick plastic bag, then carefully trim one corner. If small mistakes cannot be completely avoided, then it will be easier to remove the solution from the previously varnished surface of the tile. Any mixture that gets on the tiles is wiped off with a damp, but not wet, sponge.
To fill the joints, a heat-resistant wide-joint mixture for fireplaces and stoves is used, which is mixed immediately before starting work. The final evenness of the seams is given with a special tool - narrow jointing.
After completing this stage of work, the finishing of the stove can be considered complete.

Another example of covering a stove with terracotta tiles is in the video below:

Video - Cladding stoves with ceramic tiles "Terracotta"

How to cover a stove with tiles?

Do-it-yourself tiling of the stove is carried out according to a certain scheme in several stages:

We begin to lay the rows from the bottom. To prevent slipping and provide protection during operation, we attach a special perforated corner to the bottom along the markings. We fasten the corners to dowels with self-tapping screws. The pitch between the mounting holes is 200-250 mm. We cover all corners of the oven with the same parts. This will level all surfaces, protect corners from chipping and securely fasten the tiles.
Prepare the glue. We dilute the dry mixtures and be sure to let the solution sit for 10-15 minutes.
We apply the finished glue to the wall, filling the surface for laying a maximum of 7-8 tiles in a row. The thickness of the layer depends on the consumption rate indicated on the packaging. From the corner we begin laying out the ceramic parts. The first row is the basis for the entire finishing structure, so we lay out each tile level, bringing its position to the ideal. We insert special crosses into the gaps. Their thickness may vary depending on the type of ceramic. For simple tiles, it is enough to lay crosses up to 5 mm thick. We remove the protruding glue, the seam should not be filled, we will fill it with a special grout.
If an incorrect position of a part is detected, it can be repositioned within 15-20 minutes. Place crosses on the bottom row on 2 sides and begin to make the 2nd and next rows. We check the installation of each part using a level. All seams must be even. After laying 4-5 rows, we take a break for 2-3 hours for the glue to harden and fix the lower rows.
We bring the rows to the top row and determine the size of the tiles to be cut to size. Now we apply the solution to the wall for each part separately. To cover all the irregularities, we fix the corner with self-tapping screws. Having laid the top row on all sides of the stove, we check that there is no adhesive on the front surfaces and in the seams. Leave the oven for 3 days until the glue completely hardens.

Stages of work

Laying features

If you are ready to take on tiling the stove, then we dare to hope that you have minimal experience working with it. Well, at least theoretically. Therefore, our recommendations will be reduced to the minimum:

you need to start from the bottom row, and if there are horizontal surfaces, then from them, not forgetting to make an overhang to the thickness of the tile and glue;
lay out whole tiles first, and lay all the trimmings in the row after;
be sure to make gaps between the tiles, because if something doesn’t go well, the gaps will be the first to suffer, and this is not as noticeable and not as sad as a broken tile; also do not forget to leave a gap between the bottom row and the floor;
grout with special heat-resistant materials immediately after laying the tiles, but not before the mortar has set;
after drying, you can additionally coat your stove with silicone impregnation;
Make the first fire no earlier than 3 days later.

Final works

At this stage of work:

We remove all the crosses from the grooves;
We put 2-3 kg of firewood into the firebox and dry the surfaces before completing the work. We carry out this operation at least 3 times, allowing the oven to cool completely after each stage;
Prepare a solution of heat-resistant grout or use mastic. If necessary, you can add a color pigment to the composition to shade or highlight the main color of the tile. We fill the seams using a small rubber spatula. Immediately remove excess solution using a dampened cloth. If a heat-resistant sealant is used, fill the seams using a mounting gun;
We treat the seams with a special water-repellent composition based on silicon;
Let the grout harden a little, and after 2-3 hours we finally clean the front surfaces of the oven.

By carefully and slowly doing the work, you can improve your old brick oven or metal unit screens during the day. The work is not difficult, but responsible. The main thing is not to be afraid and do it. By redoing defective areas, we gain invaluable experience.

Porcelain tiles

This material is increasingly used in oven linings. It has excellent heat resistance and unique characteristics. Porcelain tiles are used to decorate not only the outer surface, but also the interior of the oven. In addition, he is not afraid of temperature changes, evaporation, cold and shock.

Porcelain tiles are wear-resistant, so they practically do not wear out over time.

How to cover a stove with porcelain tiles:

Apply glue to the surface with a notched trowel.
The fragment is installed and compacted with a mallet.
Several rows are laid in this way and allowed to dry.
Work continues. At the end, the cut tiles are glued.

Adhesive fireproof mastics

They are made on the basis of phosphate and silicate compounds with the addition of additives and fillers of mineral origin. Their consistency is a viscous mass. They are characterized by high heat resistance and moisture resistance. Withstands heating within 1250-1400 °C.

The industry produces a wide range of fire-resistant mastics:

Kaowool mastic – the main substance is ceramic fiber (ceramic wool). The mastic has high thermal resistance when heated to 1000°C and good adhesive characteristics (does not crack, does not peel off). Can be used for lining with tiles and heat-resistant ceramics, both the internal walls of the stove and its front side. Sold in ready-to-use form.
ZVMKV is a fire-resistant mastic, can be used when heated to 1800°C. It is made from fire-resistant filler with the addition of ceramic wool and solvent. Has high elasticity and low linear shrinkage. It is used for laying heat-resistant ceramics on metal surfaces both inside and outside stoves, fireplaces, and barbecues.
KOM – fire-resistant adhesive mastic. It is a dry mixture made from heat-resistant oxide with chemical additives. Designed for gluing ceramics to metal surfaces of ovens. Retains its performance properties when heated to 1800°C. Before use, it must be diluted with water until creamy.

Some useful tips

After grouting, you can make a neat seam with a concave surface. To do this, you will need an even stick or tube of suitable thickness. It needs to be pressed against the still soft mixture, pressing it between the tiles.

It is very convenient to use strips of drywall as a template for seams. Its thickness is 10 mm. This will allow you to lay the tile with a constant gap by simply pressing the side of the tile against the strip. Once the binding is completed, the templates can be easily removed.

An element that accidentally falls off after finishing must be cleaned of glue and its remains removed from the wall. Lubricate the entire underside of the tile with clay mortar and install the part in place. Press the glued fragment tightly, aligning it with the adjacent ones. They also carry out partial repairs of the coating during operation, rubbing the tile seams.

Do-it-yourself stove repair will be successful only if the tile laying technology is followed. It is better not to skimp on materials; porcelain tiles or clinker suitable for stoves and fireplaces are expensive, but they also last a very long time.

Furnace finishing

In order to improve a brick stove, there are many ways. One of the most popular is finishing the stove with tiles.

This is how you can decorate an ordinary home stove with tiles

Tile is inexpensive, and the appearance of the fireplace will change significantly. Stove tiles weigh less than facing bricks.

The use of natural materials is at the risk of customers. After all, the strength of marble may have natural defects obtained during quarrying. Ceramic tiles and porcelain tiles are now produced of much higher quality than ten to twenty years later. They can be used without fear of cracking and crumbling.

Tile for stove photo.

If a different foundation was installed for the stove, then such tiling of the stove would be perfect. A high-quality stove will operate under difficult temperature conditions, so a metal corner is pulled over the body of the fireplace to prevent cracks.

But I would like to remind you that everything depends primarily on the hands of the master

Even beautiful tiles may not save the situation...

Before tiling the stove, you need to prepare the following tools:

meter level;
two spatula - serrated and flat, about one hundred millimeters wide;
lace;
tile cutter;
rubber hammer;
plastic crosses;
rubber spatula 50 mm wide;
protection for corners, because they are decoration and reinforcement for masonry.

This type of stove requires mandatory decoration with ceramic tiles

And for this stove, only the design of the wall and the tray on which the stove will work is suitable. Before you cover the stove with tiles, it is important to know which tile is best for the stove. Stove tiles come in different sizes

Craftsmen recommend taking tiles for fireplaces and stoves measuring 20x25 centimeters or less. You need to choose the tiles for the stove based on its size, so that you can use less cut tiles. However, you can’t do without using pieces, so you will need a tile cutter or glass cutter. Laying tiles on the stove with your own hands will be successful if you choose the right glue to which the tiles will be glued.

Do you think the craftsmen made the wood blank correctly?

And these craftsmen made a wooden podium...

The use of heat-resistant bricks is more suitable for integrating a stove into the design of a country house. Do not forget that the podium must be fireproof

This is also an option for a country house, when the heat from the stove will be absorbed by the refractory material. We would like to note that even the Buran spacecraft was decorated with ceramics, which prevented it from burning when returning to earth. If the stove is located in a country house, which is not always used, then the lowest temperature for glue should take into account the minimum temperature in the house. The plane of the fireplace on which the stove tiles will be laid must be straightened in advance and without any bumps. If the brick starts to crumble, the best option would be to plaster the fireplace.

With normal masonry, it is possible to polish and tile the stove beautifully. The first row of tiles for lining the stove is laid out without glue. After you have done the fitting, you need to mix a little glue until it becomes thick and creamy and lay the tiles on the stove from top to bottom. Before tiling the stove, a layer of mortar is evenly applied to each tile using a spatula, which should be thick, but be able to cover the entire part of the tile on the back side.

The ceramic frame can be transferred to the stove itself

Laying tiles on the stove is done with a seam width of three millimeters.

Particular attention must be paid to the seams. After the glue has set, the tile must be wiped and left to dry for 2 days.

Then the seams must be finished with grout.

In this version, the ceramics are just decoration, they do not provide any functionality.

To prevent buyers from making mistakes, some glue manufacturers produce fire-resistant masonry mixtures. In fact, this glue is no different from ordinary tile adhesive. When purchasing, it is better to contact specialized companies that will give you professional advice about their products, where they will clearly explain at what temperatures they can be used and how well they adhere. And such inscriptions on bags do not oblige the manufacturer to do anything, only to increase the price on the so-called specialized product...

Before tiling the stove, it is necessary to carry out some checks to improve the result. Before placing tiles on the stove, it is necessary to determine whether it heats any rooms.

This fireplace surround was made using regular tile adhesive.

And the decorative stone is also laid with regular glue

Tiles

This material is specially designed for lining stoves. It features excellent performance and stunning appearance. But this is not only a stylish decor, but also a way to retain heat for as long as possible. It has a box-like structure with a recess on the reverse side - the so-called rump.

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Tile cladding will provide visual appeal and effective functionality.

How to lay tiles on the stove:

A serpyanka mesh is fixed to the surface and plastered with a thin layer.
Self-tapping screws are screwed into the seams between the bricks.
Glue is applied to the stove and to the back of the tiller, along its contour.
The tile is fixed to the surface, then screwed to a self-tapping screw using wire. All tiles are laid in this way.
The distance between elements reaches 1 cm.
Fire-resistant chamotte is poured inside the pump; it retains heat and increases the useful effect with less consumption of heating materials.