Chimney made of sandwich pipes through the wall: installation rules and step-by-step instructions. Which chimney is better

Modern man is a very heat-loving creature, and cannot exist in a house without heating. A heat generator with a chimney is the most complex and potentially dangerous engineering system. A chimney is a rather bulky and complex structure, and if the stove or fireplace is located near the outer wall of the house, then the most practical option is to install the chimney through the wall.

We welcome our regular reader and offer him information on how to make a chimney outside near the wall of the house with your own hands.

Design Features

Despite the huge selection of materials for the construction of chimneys, the most widely used today are double-circuit steel pipes, popularly called “sandwich”.

The sandwich type chimney is a two-layer structure. Between two metal pipes of different diameters there is a layer of heat-insulating material, which simultaneously serves as insulation and insulation.

Video: Chimney made from sandwich pipes

Compared to single-circuit pipes, which are made from steel 0.5 mm thick, the double-circuit design is characterized by increased fire safety and better technical characteristics. To install a chimney outside the building, single-circuit pipes are not recommended. After all, due to only one layer, they are simply not able to retain heat in the cold season. Due to a sharp temperature difference, condensation forms in such a chimney, reducing draft and creating blockages in the pipe.

Construction of a double-circuit sandwich pipe

Therefore, to install a chimney through a wall, the best option would be to purchase sandwich pipes. The popularity of such a double-circuit chimney is due to its low price compared to a brick chimney, attractive appearance, excellent technical characteristics, fire safety and long-term operation.

In addition, you can do the installation of a chimney made of this material yourself. And although there are some nuances and subtleties here, even a beginner can cope with the task if you strictly follow our detailed instructions.

Safety regulations

The likelihood of a significant increase in pressure in the channel involves closing the joints with specially designed couplings. It is advisable to seal joints on steel pipes with heat-resistant sealants. Complete insulation of the chimney promotes proper draft.

Sandwich panels, which have good thermal insulation characteristics, do not exclude the possibility of overheating and possibly ignition of materials located near the chimney. To prevent this situation, it is recommended to increase the layer of thermal insulation at the joints of the structure.

If you follow the main safety rules, installing a chimney will not be difficult. In addition, it is necessary to ensure high-quality maintenance of the canal, including its regular cleaning. This will become a kind of prevention of accidents during operation of the furnace.

Advantages and disadvantages of sandwich pipes

The thermal insulation layer prevents the outer pipe from heating to a critical temperature.
Compact and versatile in use.
The smooth surface of the inner casing increases the chimney draft.
Low price compared to ceramic material.
Operating temperature up to 850 degrees (for single-circuit pipes, for comparison, 5000).
Easy to assemble.
The fire safety of the home increases.
Easy maintenance compared to a solid pipe chimney (less soot accumulation).
Does not create additional noise when drafting smoke.

The only drawback of the multilayer structure is the decrease in sealing after a long time. Due to sudden temperature changes, air can enter at the junction of sections.

Fastening

The maximum length of the chimney, starting from the grate and ending with the deflector, can reach 5-6 meters. At pipe joints, it is necessary to use a sealing material with heat-resistant properties that can withstand temperatures up to 1000 °C. Upon completion of installation, the protective film must be removed from the structure.

To further clean the chimney from soot, a revision is provided in the pipe body - a tee with a door on the side. This element cuts directly into the channel.

For reliable support of the chimney, you can make your own bracket from steel corners measuring 30x50 mm. To do this you will need a drill, an angle grinder and M10 bolts. The presence of the last element is not necessary, since the bracket frame can be fastened using electric welding.

Technical characteristics of sandwich pipes

Material. Basalt fiber (mineral wool) is mainly used as a thermal insulation material. This type of insulation is resistant to high temperatures and chemicals. Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation/sound insulation properties and is laid with a thickness of 30-60 mm. Due to their fireproof properties, multilayer pipes can be used in houses built from any material. More expensive alloys with a high degree of heat resistance are used for the inner casing.

The inner layer of the sandwich pipe is mainly made of galvanized steel, and the outer layer can be made of copper, brass, stainless steel, etc. The scope of the pipe and the price depend on the content of alloying materials, various alloys and the thickness of the heat-insulating layer.

Sandwich pipes galvanized and stainless steel

Connection type. Sandwich pipe elements are connected in two ways: corrugated edges and sockets. The advantage of a corrugated connection is ease of installation, but to ensure tightness, a large amount of sealant is required, and this increases the cost of the chimney. With a socket connection, a high degree of tightness is achieved due to the presence of a wider chamfer on one side of the pipe. The advantage is a high degree of tightness, due to which the design can be used for gas boilers. But the downside is the complexity of installation and the need for very precise adjustment of all parts.

Types of sandwich pipe connections

Advantages of a wood-burning stove in a bathhouse and sauna

Installing a wood-burning stove in a bathhouse is undoubtedly a smart decision. Thanks to its features, it is not only practical, but also profitable:

The low cost of fuel will allow you to significantly save on heating;
Thanks to the natural heat, the steam room warms up twice as quickly as with gas;
A wide range of wood-burning stoves will allow you to choose a design that is ideal in size and price;

Find out more about wood-burning sauna stoves, their operating features and advantages.

The chimneys of a wood-burning stove for a bathhouse have a number of structural features that distinguish them from standard smoke exhaust systems

The most important thing is to make sure that carbon monoxide does not penetrate into the steam room, and soot does not settle on the walls of your sauna

The most important installation rules

If you are planning to install a chimney through a wooden wall with your own hands, take the trouble to accurately calculate the diameter of the pipe from the beginning. This value is determined by the boiler power and other characteristics. Incorrect calculation leads to poor traction or large excess fuel consumption;
Remember that the sleeve has a hole only for the chimney pipe! There should be no communications nearby;
Any chimney outlet into the wall must strictly observe an angle of 90 degrees, that is, it is advisable to make the chimney outlet through the wall strictly horizontal, and it should not be longer than 1 m. Optimally, a 60-centimeter horizontal transition;
All vertical structures must be strictly perpendicular, and this is the most important answer to the question “how to bring a chimney through a wall”;
No matter what the wall is made of, and even more so, installing a chimney through a wall in a wooden house with your own hands requires strict adherence to fire safety rules! The wall must be reliably protected with fireproof and heat-insulating material.

What decorative materials are used to finish “weak” areas?

Starikovsky expanded clay is rarely used in modern walk-through devices; now, to a greater extent, various basalt fillers or various fiber cement boards are used. They look like drywall and cut well. This is generally the best material at the moment. Fiber cement boards have many commercial names.

Brick is often used, the rule here is simple - the brick is laid from the pipe along its entire length, and this, in principle, is enough for fire protection. The heat is mainly removed by brick, but a little fiber cement board around the perimeter still won’t hurt.

Porcelain tiles are great because they can withstand temperatures up to 1500 degrees and can be used for decorative purposes along with fire protection. You can use its analogue - this is a very resistant special heat-resistant tile called terracotta. Excellent tiles that are used for thermal protection and at the same time for room decoration, both on the floor near the stove and on the wall at the chimney outlet.

Types of external chimneys

The most difficult to construct are single-wall brick chimneys. But if you have to connect a wall-mounted 2- or 1-circuit gas boiler, then they are completely unsuitable. Most modern builders choose more pragmatic sandwich pipes. Also, a sleeve of two pipes with a layer of thermal insulation is brought out through the wall. Most often this is basalt fiber. Pipes can be selected of any diameter to suit any needs, and the chimney wall passage unit is also selected individually. The advantage of sandwich pipes is their cost-effectiveness and ease of installation of a chimney with your own hands, as well as sufficient durability. Stainless steel pipes guarantee that such a chimney through the wall of a wooden house will serve you for many years without unpleasant surprises. And a metal structure weighs much less than brick structures. At the same time, a sandwich chimney in a bathhouse through the wall, just like in a house, is quite decorative.

Passing through a wall is done in two main ways:

A single-circuit, or single-wall chimney, is when it is used when installing one pipe;
Double-circuit, when a sandwich chimney is discharged through an external wall, consisting of 2 pipes with thermal insulation between them. This is the most acceptable option with higher protective properties.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with installation, it is necessary to clarify several basic factors. When selecting a channel, you need to take into account the height of the building, the diameter of the future channel, and others. Give special attention to the installation site and location of the heating equipment. Installation of a sandwich chimney, like any other, can be done in two main ways:

Internal.
External.

For example, when installed internally, the installation of a sandwich chimney is carried out directly in the heated room, and in this case additional sealing is not required. But, there is a nuance, if the attic space is not heated, in this case, it would be useful to additionally insulate the pipe during installation and carry out a seal to prevent exhaust gases from entering the rooms with the ensuing consequences. In addition, at the initial stage, think about what to do with those materials, walls, next to which, in contact, the chimney will pass. Surfaces must be treated with special fire retardants.

Do-it-yourself sandwich chimney installation

As for external systems, the assembly of the external sandwich chimney must be carried out taking into account the mandatory insulation. These types are much safer, since they immediately remove the pipe to the outside during installation, reducing the likelihood of exhaust gases entering the premises.

Which type and shape should I choose? Here it is worth giving preference not only to aesthetic indicators, but also to functional ones. Keep in mind that it is easy to fix or fasten a square chimney, it is quite easy to use and does not require special skills during installation. But the main disadvantage of such a system is the accumulation of condensation and other unnecessary dirt and dust inside. Round elements in this part are much preferable, given their shape; they retain much less not only a variety of debris that can get in from gusts of wind, but also form less condensation, naturally taking into account proper insulation. The only thing is that such systems are difficult to install and you will need skill. In addition, do not forget to prepare the necessary tools for installation in advance. So, the tools needed to install a chimney:

Drill, grinder.
Jigsaw, screwdriver.
Hammer.
Screwdrivers.
Protective ammunition.
Spatula and chisel.

General requirements for good chimneys

Boilers, stoves or fireplaces of a certain power have chimneys with different channel cross-sections. These sections must be calculated correctly and accurately. If the channel is too narrow, the smoke will not have time to escape, the draft will be poor, and the heating device will smoke. The type of material is often decisive, for example, chimney pipes in a wall made of aerated concrete require more reliable thermal insulation than street pipes, but less than pipes passing through wood.

A round chimney shape is preferable; in this type there are no turbulences that cause poor or reverse draft. At the same time, installing any chimney through a wall assumes an optimal height of 5-10 meters. With individual construction, pipes 10 meters long are something out of science fiction. But chimneys shorter than 5 meters are a fairly common phenomenon; people are not too interested in how to remove the pipe from the stove correctly. Moreover, what height is guaranteed to provide poor traction.

If the roof covering is susceptible to fire, then a spark arrestor in the form of a metal mesh with cells of 0.5x0.5 centimeters must be installed on the exhausted boiler or stove chimney. There should be excellent ventilation near the heating device. Horizontal sunbeds should not exceed 1 meter (optimally 0.6 meters). Longer horizontal sections impair traction and can quickly become clogged with soot. In any pipeline, especially if it is a single-walled chimney made of metal, there must be a condensate collector and a hole (or door) for cleaning soot. It is advisable to avoid angles of 90 degrees; it is better to replace one such angle with two 45 degrees.

Preliminary calculations

In addition to the cross-section, you should also determine the length of the chimney and its correct location.

Length calculation

There are some requirements here, let's take a look at them.

According to the same SNiP, the minimum height of the chimney should be 5 meters.
If the roofing in your case is a flammable material, then the chimney should rise above the ridge by another 1-1.5 meters.
If the coating is non-flammable, then this height will be at least 0.5 meters.

Note! If there are extensions to the house, the height of which exceeds its height, then the chimney must be installed above this particular extension

What parts does an outdoor chimney consist of?

As already mentioned, the most popular and most reliable of the street ones are sandwich chimneys. A standard pipe sleeve must be routed through wood with particularly careful fire protection, which only sandwich technology can provide. At the same time, there should be no pipe joints at the point of transition through the wall! So, what parts does an outdoor chimney usually consist of, which is led out through the wall? This:

Pipes;
Tees;
Elbow for bending the pipeline in the desired direction;
Chimney support;
Clamps. Distance between clamps when attaching to the wall: 60-100 cm;
Tee with revision, i.e. door for cleaning the chimney;
A condensate collector with a spout for removing it.

Where is the best place to place the chimney outlet?

It is best if the street chimney passes through the wall from the gable side. If this is not possible, and the sleeve will come out from the side of the roof slope, you will also have to build a support post if the roof overhang is more than 40 centimeters. If the overhang is small, then the pipe can be passed directly through it. With proper fire protection, especially if a chimney is built through a wall in a wooden house, it will serve as an additional retainer.

Proper fastening of chimney pipes to the wall on the street side is very important. There are two options for this mounting:

In the first option, clamps wrap around the pipe and are rigidly attached to the wall on both sides.
The second option is a standard clamp, which is tightened and then attached to the wall with an anchor pin. The third fastening element is the lower console, which picks up the pipe and prevents it from falling down. This console has the form of 3-angled metal supports, one side of which is screwed to the wall, and the chimney rests on the other side, so that the supports do not interfere with opening the door for cleaning. You need two such supports. The option with stilettos is traditionally considered more budget-friendly.

Arrangement rules

Carbon monoxide is almost impossible to detect; it has no taste or smell, and is invisible visually. Moreover, it is heavier than air, so it settles and remains in the room. In this regard, it is necessary to follow the basic rules when installing the heat generator and chimney:

There are standards put forward during installation work depending on the type of fuel used. These are SNiP 41-01-2003, NPB 252-98 and VDPO. Ignoring them can cause many violations that affect the quality of the heat generator. Incorrect selection of the device can lead to overheating of the floors, insufficient draft leads to soot settling, and a leaky assembly leads to smoke in the room.

Building regulations

Chimneys are designed and installed in accordance with SP 60.13330.2012 “SNiP 41-01-2003. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning.”

Chimneys must meet the following requirements:

The height from the mouth to the grate must be at least 5 meters.
The internal channel should not have narrowed areas.
The height above the flat roof is at least 0.5 m (preferably 1 m).
Head height for pitched roof:

At a distance of less than 1.5 m from the ridge (parapet) - no lower than 0.5 m from the ridge.
If the distance to the ridge is from 1.5-3 m - not lower than the level of the ridge.
If the distance to the ridge is more than 3 m, the height should not be below a line drawn from the ridge at an angle of 10° to the horizontal (down from the horizontal).
When calculating, you should take into account not only the height of the ridge closest to the chimney, but also the height of the highest ridge of the building (or the highest part of the building).

Pipes may have inclined sections at an angle of at least 30° to the vertical, with a horizontal pipe displacement of no more than 1 m. The cross-sectional area of inclined sections should not be less than the cross-sectional area of horizontal sections.

Fire safety requirements for chimneys

The distance between the outer surface of brick or any other chimneys (with insulation) and the structures of walls and roof slabs must be at least 130 mm. The distance from the structures to the wooden wall must be at least 260 mm.

If the chimney in the area of the roof overhang passes close to rafters, sheathing and other combustible materials, the passage must be insulated with non-combustible materials.

The chimney of solid fuel, wood and peat heating devices must necessarily have a mesh spark arrestor with a mesh size of no more than 5x5 mm if the roof is covered with flammable materials (bitumen tiles, roofing felt, ondulin) or leaves fall on it. When installing a chimney in a wooden house, be sure to install a spark arrester.

Traction and height

The height of the hog is the main parameter that determines the traction force.

Other factors affecting traction force:

Sufficient insulation of the pipeline.
Smoothness of the walls of the chimney channel.
The thickness of the soot layer on the walls.
The presence of a head or deflector (which does not interfere with the free exit of smoke).
Air supply to the firebox.
Closing the canal with valves, condensate or ice frozen at the mouth.
Correctly selected internal cross-section.

How to choose a diameter

The diameter of the internal chimney channel must necessarily coincide with the diameter of the boiler outlet pipe (information from the heat generator’s passport).

In SP 7.13130.2013 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. Fire Safety Requirements" shows the cross-sectional dimensions of the internal channel depending on the power of the heat generator:

Up to 3.6 kW – 140×140 mm (diameter not less than 158 mm).
3.5-5.2 kW – 140×200 mm (diameter not less than 189 mm).
5.2-7.0 kW – 140×270 mm (diameter not less than 219 mm).

Expert advice

The chimney running outside the building should be collected using condensate. If you collect smoke, condensation can get inside the liner, wet the insulation - the pipe will be poorly insulated (the liquid conducts heat well), the outer liner will heat up, heat up the wall structures, which can lead to a fire. In addition, freezing of the liquid can lead to damage to the pipes, and the acid in the condensate can lead to faster burning of the stainless steel inner liner. At the same time, a small smoke leak in the open air is quite safe, but a large one is clearly visible and can be eliminated by additionally sealing the pipe joint with sealant.

Under no circumstances should you reduce the diameter of the chimney duct opening - this will lead to a decrease or stop of draft.

It is necessary to regularly (2 times a year) clean the chimney channel from soot, and the head from frozen condensate, ice and snow.

How to insulate

The sandwich pipe is already well insulated and does not require additional insulation. An exception is where the pipe passes through a wall or partition. For this purpose, different insulation materials are used, if possible fireproof. Glass wool with a low melting point cannot be used for chimneys; basalt wool cannot be used for coal boilers.

The place where the pipe passes through the wall (sometimes through the wooden structure of the roof overhang) must be insulated with basalt or ceramic wool, foamed vermiculite, or asbestos.

Do not think that asbestos is super harmful - the finished products do not generate dust or emit harmful substances, and the asbestos itself will be closed and isolated from the room with a flange.

Features of working with wooden walls

The peculiarity of wooden walls is their flammability. Therefore, installing a chimney in a wooden house is more difficult than in a stone one. When venting a chimney through a wooden wall, it is necessary to very strictly maintain the distance from the wall to the pipe (at least 260 mm) and perform high-quality thermal insulation of the passage through the wall. It is also important to pay attention to treating the walls with an antipyretic.

The installation of a chimney in a wooden house requires insulation of the wall surface near the outlet pipe of the heat generator and the first mounted monopipe. Insulation is carried out with non-combustible materials - plaster, tiles (porcelain stoneware), stone, fiber cement sheets, sheet metal with an asbestos sheet underneath.

Features of brick and concrete walls

Brick and concrete are resistant to fire - this is a big plus. But nevertheless, insulation in the place where the pipe passes is mandatory, the distance to the wall is at least 130 mm. The rules for installing chimneys were invented for the safety of people, and they should be followed in any case.

Chimney installation rules

In no case should the chimney be laid in the place where communications pass (electrical wiring, sewerage, etc.).
To minimize heat loss, it is recommended to locate most of the structure indoors.
The outer part of the chimney must end with a deflector to prevent precipitation from getting inside. Don't forget about the snow guard. They will protect the gas outlet channel from damage.
Keep the step of fastening the structure to the wall no more than one meter to avoid further curvature of the chimney.
The place where the pipe passes through the wall must be additionally protected with thermal insulation material. To do this, the diameter of the hole needs to be made slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe.
The sandwich pipe cannot be installed as the first pipe above the combustion tank. It is preceded by the so-called “sandwich start”.
The length of horizontal straight sections of the chimney should not exceed 1 m.
When designing a chimney, make sure that when passing through the wall there is a single pipe without joints. All connections must be visible and directly accessible.

Selecting the type of chimney outlet

A chimney through a wall can be done in two ways. The first option involves raising the pipe closer to the ceiling and then exiting. The second option represents a design that goes directly from the boiler in a straight line.

With the second option, almost the entire chimney ends up outside the house. The advantage of this type of design is that only one elbow will need to be used, which will affect the efficiency of traction. And the likelihood of soot plugs forming is much less.

Chimney outlet options

Before performing installation work, it is necessary to draw an assembly plan, calculating the diameter of the chimney and its height. There are some factors to consider.

Warm air rises, which means the higher the chimney, the greater the draft. It also depends on the diameter, so it is very important to correctly determine what size chimney you need. Its size is also affected by the power of the heating device.

Calculate the diameter of the structure

The diameter of the double-circuit pipe directly depends on the size of the boiler installation pipe. Therefore, it is difficult to draw an installation diagram without knowing what type of heating device will be used. A simple rule applies here: the inner casing of the sandwich should in no case be smaller than the pipe itself. You can take more.

For example, if the diameter of the outlet pipe is 120 mm, then the internal diameter of the sandwich pipe should be the same size or larger. In no case should you allow “narrowing” at the junction of the pipes and throughout the entire chimney, otherwise this may affect the draft.

Determining the chimney diameter

The diameter of the chimney is also affected by the type of heating device. Therefore, if you are building a smoke exhaust structure before purchasing a stove or boiler, then immediately take into account its power.

If the power of the heating device does not exceed 3.5 kW, then you can limit the diameter of the internal casing to 80 mm. For more powerful boilers (up to 5.2 kW), the pipe size should be increased to 95 mm. The larger the diameter of the inner pipe, the faster it will cool.

Determining the height of the chimney

Calculating the height of the chimney pipe depends on the overall height of the house. If the height of the house is small (up to 5 meters), the height of the chimney in any case should be at least 5 meters. A short chimney can cause “smoke” in the house, and the power of the device is significantly reduced due to poor draft. And an excessively long pipe will increase fuel consumption, as if “forcing” the operation of the heating device, which affects the low efficiency of the heating system.

Calculation of chimney height based on boiler power

The optimal pipe length is considered to be in the range of 5-10 meters.

If the house is higher than 10 meters, then we focus on the ridge of the roof. The chimney should be 0.5 meters higher than the ridge to avoid creating turbulence. Consider also the material from which the roof is made. If the roof is covered with flammable material, then the top of the chimney should be 1 meter from the ridge.

How will we assemble the sandwich: by smoke or condensation?

Before starting construction work, you should decide on the type of assembly of the pipes themselves: “smoke” or “condensate”.

Sandwich pipe assembly options

The “smoke” design is characterized by building sections inward (visible clearly in the figure):

Inner tube: The bottom element is inserted inside the top element of the sandwich.

The outer pipe is built in the same way as the inner one. The lower section is inserted inside the upper contour.

Each subsequent section is built upon the previous element, as if being put on top. This type of chimney connection is best used in stoves with high combustion temperatures.

The “condensate” design is built using the opposite method:

Inner tube: take the upper section of the sandwich and insert it into the lower part.

Outer pipe: Here you have to do the opposite method. Take the lower element of the outer pipe and insert it inside the outer pipe of the upper element.

With this construction, condensate flows freely along the outer casing of the chimney into a special sump.

When is it better to use this assembly scheme?

at low temperatures of combustion products;
for external installation of a chimney;
in stoves with a long burning function;
in fireboxes with smoldering combustion.

Differences between smoke and condensate connections

Considering our task - to assemble a chimney outside the house, the choice of the type of sandwich connection is obvious. Pipes outside the house, when exposed to low temperatures, will cool faster, which means that the likelihood of condensation forming is high. Under the influence of moisture, soot begins to dissolve, forming acids. These substances pose a serious threat to pipe surfaces.

What tools are needed for installation through a brick or concrete wall?

screwdriver;
construction gloves to protect hands;
ladder;
knife;
electric drill (for attaching the bracket);
building level (to check the verticality of the chimney installation);
perforator (for a hole in the wall).

What materials are needed for installation?

metal box (pipe);
dowels;
sandwich pipe set;
silicone sealant (necessarily heat-resistant!);
tee (necessary to change the direction of the smoke and connect the pipe directly to the firebox of the heating apparatus).
knee (450 or 900);
support console, bracket (the entire structure is supported on it);
clamps for connecting sections;
foiled mineral wool (for insulating the pipe opening);
plug (protective umbrella from precipitation and debris).

It is important to know

Before starting installation, you should familiarize yourself with some subtleties

For example, it is important to know that the larger the structure area inside the room, the less heat loss there will be. When creating a detailed diagram, take into account the fact that smooth horizontal sections should be up to one meter

Please note that contact of the system with any communications, such as gas and electricity, is unacceptable. And if there are wooden parts in the way of placing the chimney, then the pipe must be moved away from them using special steel brackets. The distance between fastenings should not exceed one meter.

Also include in the plan a part of a collapsible pipe or insert with a door through which inspection and cleaning of soot will be possible. Of course, installing a sandwich chimney is a serious and responsible matter, so if you decide to do it without specialists, then understand the degree of responsibility and strictly follow the step-by-step instructions.

Internal chimney through the roof: advantages

A chimney installed indoors from a heating device upward through the floors and roof is called internal and is most widespread. The main thing in this matter is to plan such a smoke removal route in advance, at the very initial stages of building construction.

Advantages of an internal chimney:

the most stable and good traction
absence of external factors that can damage the structure
insulation of the chimney and, accordingly, eliminating the possibility of overcooling of smoke and gases with subsequent formation of condensate
independence from climatic and weather conditions
no wind load
no heat loss
no violations of the integrity and insulation of the external walls of the building
longer service life
the possibility of saving on fasteners, since they can be used to fasten the structure of the house itself, and also use inexpensive fasteners due to the absence of load on them by external factors
easier installation and maintenance

Disadvantages of an internal chimney:

violation of the tightness of the roof and the need to dismantle some load-bearing structures in cases where the chimney route was not included in the original house construction plan
higher level of fire hazard due to the location of the pipe inside the house
the need to insulate all areas where the pipe adjoins the walls and where the pipe passes through the ceiling, ceiling and roof
use of useful living space
risk of smoke in the room if the pipe is damaged

Attention! When organizing a smoke exhaust system inside a house, it is important to pay special attention to insulating all surfaces and pipe passages.

When pipes are heated, the surrounding areas, especially those made of flammable materials, may begin to smolder or catch fire. It is strongly recommended not to skimp on the quality of insulating materials and to install them in accordance with all established rules. You should also maintain safe distances between the chimney and surrounding areas of walls, ceilings or roofs.

Frequent errors and problems during installation

The most serious mistakes when installing sandwich pipes are installation at a small distance from the wall, lack of insulation at the point where the sandwich pipe passes through the wall, and assembly of elements according to smoke. A chimney in the wall of a wooden house requires particularly careful insulation of the space between the pipe and the wall.

During installation, it is important to check that there is a sufficient amount of insulation at the pipe junction - loose insulation will lead to heating of the outer part of the pipe with all the dangerous consequences. The joints should not be located where the pipe passes through the wall and roof overhang.

It is also important to securely and strictly vertically fasten the structure. Particular attention should be paid to the fastenings for the chimney to the wall if the wall surface is insulated with polystyrene foam or mineral wool - the dowels must be long enough and fit into the supporting structure (not into the plaster!) of the wall by at least 60 mm.

If the pipe passes through the side overhang of the roof, be sure to install a flashing so that precipitation from the slope does not fall on the sandwich (it can wet the insulation). On the front facade, it is also worth covering the place where the pipe passes through the protrusion of the roof covering with ebbs (although in this case the pipe often passes without touching the covering).

Direct path to fire.

External and internal chimney: do it yourself or with the help of professionals?

On the Internet you can find numerous diagrams for connecting external and internal pipes, their designs and fastening methods. But installing a chimney with your own hands is always a big risk. Since it concerns fire safety, property safety, life and health of the residents of the house, it is recommended to use the services of trusted specialists.

Carrying out installation work by professionals has the following advantages:

preparation of a work plan taking into account all technical features of the structure
guarantee for work performed
guarantee of high quality assembly and installation
guarantee of compliance with all required standards, including those established by law
taking into account all the nuances and features of the smoke exhaust system
high efficiency of work
fire safety guarantee

Insulation of external chimney

A more practical option for a chimney is to use a sandwich pipe, which is not only easier to install, but also does not require additional insulation.

If a single-circuit pipe is used for smoke removal, it is necessary to install it in a box, where the distance between the walls of the box and the pipe is filled with a basalt heat insulator.

You can also use foil or other non-flammable material for insulation, but there must be a thick layer of heat-insulating non-flammable material on top of the pipe.

A shaft for a chimney made of brick, where the pipe is placed, is of course beautiful, aesthetically pleasing, but very labor-intensive and impractical - a brick shaft is not dismountable, it is difficult to clean, and besides, brick is not cheap.

Mirror frame “Cloud”

So, for the cloud mirror frame you will need to stock up:

Round mirrors
Foam board
Newspaper or paper
Glue
With nails

The process of making a “Cloud” frame for a mirror:

Take regular kitchen lids. The diameter of the covers should be 7 cm larger than the mirrors themselves. Trace them on paper with a pencil and cut them out.
After cutting out the circles, place them on the table and make the desired shape.
Glue the circles together, this way you will get a template for the future product.

Sample

When the glue dries, transfer the template to the prepared foam board and trace it.
If you are satisfied with the workpiece, cut out one single figure from the foam.
Make holes where you will place the mirrors. Cut the holes not too deep.

Cutting holes

Make fastenings in a couple of places where you plan to insert mirrors. Take an awl and make through holes in the frame. Then insert the mirrors.
Take the glue, apply it to the back side of the element, press it tightly to the base, and hold for some time. Do the same with other mirrors.
Hammer a couple of nails at the distance of the holes and install the frame.

Ready

The service life of such a chimney

The service life of chimneys depends on the designs and materials from which they are made.

A ceramic chimney will last up to 40 years. Manufacturers declare 50 years or more, but no one has checked it yet. A brick one can last longer, but stainless steel liners will have to be replaced after 15-20 years. The service life of the liner primarily depends on the thickness and grade of steel. The thickness of the liner steel should not be less than 0.8-1.0 mm. Galvanization will not last long.

A good quality sandwich will last for 15-20 years or even more. The service life depends on the material and thickness of the inner liner - a good stainless steel inner liner with a thickness of 1 mm will last 20 years. Enameled liner made of carbon (“black”) steel – 15 years.

The service life of the liner depends on the type of heating unit (more precisely, on the type of fuel and the heating temperature of the exhaust gases). The shortest service life is for chimneys for fireplaces and coal boilers, which release very hot gases during intense combustion. The service life of chimneys from boilers and fireplaces using peat, briquettes and wood is slightly longer. Chimneys for pellet and gas boilers will last the longest.

Installation instructions for specific types

Ceramic chimneys are characterized by high resistance to high temperatures, durability and excellent performance. The smooth surface reduces the chance of soot or ash accumulation.

Divided by material:

They are found from high-quality types of clay (this in itself is a very expensive material), the main feature of which is fine dispersion and uniformity.
In the production of fireclay, inexpensive types of clay that have coarse particles are used.

The service life of these models also varies.

According to the type of assembly, ceramic chimneys are:

ceramic-expanded clay - the pipe is “edged” with expanded clay blocks and looks like a brick one;
ceramic-stainless - the shell is made of mirror stainless steel 0.8 mm thick (external effect - the pipe seems to be metal);
expanded clay-stainless steel.

Do it yourself or order it?

You can only make a brick chimney yourself or a structure from an insulated single-layer steel pipe. But laying smooth and beautiful walls of a brick pipe is more difficult than laying just a brick wall, and you must have the skills of an experienced mason. Single-layer pipes will have to be insulated; the quality of self-insulation is much worse than that of ready-made factory-made pipes.

You can independently install a chimney made of ceramics and sandwich pipes. It is impossible to manufacture elements of such chimneys on your own, but the industry produces many modules that allow you to assemble a pipeline of any design.

The question of whether to install a pipe yourself or hire a team of professionals is quite complicated. Installing a chimney is quite a complex job, and it is worth thinking about and carefully assessing your capabilities: is it possible to take prefabricated scaffolding or scaffolding of the appropriate height, will you have assistants, do you have the skills to install building structures, how do you react to height.

Briefly about the main thing...

Chimneys can be single- or double-walled. Based on the material of manufacture, metal, brick structures and structures made of sandwich pipes are distinguished. The last option is optimal for private houses. When installing a chimney, the rules for its placement in the room are observed. Its functionality, as well as the presence of draft in the heating equipment, depends on the correct determination of the diameter and height of the structure.

The installation technology through a wooden and brick wall is the same, but there are some nuances: wood is more susceptible to ignition and requires maximum protection. During installation, you must comply with fire regulations, and also take into account possible errors.

Source

What do the professionals advise?

As you can see, making an attached chimney yourself is not so difficult. The main thing is to choose all the materials correctly and take into account fire safety standards, which will allow you to avoid many unpleasant situations. It’s up to you to decide whether to vent the chimney through the roof or make it external. After all, what is better or worse is always easier to determine in each specific situation.

And finally, I would like to share some advice that professional stove makers give:

Before you start purchasing chimney elements and installing it, be sure to determine the power of your firebox. The more powerful it is, the larger pipe diameter you will need.
Be careful when choosing the height of the structure, which has a significant impact on obtaining good traction. A chimney that is too short will poorly remove combustion products, while a chimney that is too long will lead to excessive heat loss. Practice shows: the optimal pipe height is 5 meters. But here, too, everything is individual.
If your boiler is equipped with forced draft, then the output of the external chimney can be completed at the stage of arrangement of only the horizontal section (without further extension of the vertical pipe).
It is better to remove the chimney from the side of the gables (if possible). This greatly simplifies the task, since its arrangement will not be hampered by awnings and roof eaves.
The maximum length of the horizontal section should not exceed 1.5 meters. It is here that the smoke flow is inhibited, which significantly reduces draft.
Here, provide a special hole for technical needs: inspection and cleaning of the chimney. After all, the horizontal section is the most problematic in this regard. Sales consultants will help you choose the right item.
If there is a wooden wall on the side of the boiler, fireplace, or stove, be sure to install a protective screen. These can be sheets of mineralite, asbestos, galvanized, fire-resistant plasterboard, glass magnesium or other fire-resistant material.

There's no need to do that

Roof fixation

Fixation of pipes from a sandwich chimney through the roof is carried out according to a similar algorithm as through the ceiling.
All wooden elements with this technology have high protection; the distance under such circumstances is reduced to 15.5 cm. The calculation is made that in the roof area the chimney is well blown by an air flow and cooled. This fact is a reason to reduce the distance to the rafters covered with thermal insulation. Such rules apply only when the roof is not treated with insulation from the inside. If thermal insulation exists, the same standards apply as for interior spaces on lower floors.