How to cut a circle in a profiled sheet for a pipe

Corrugated roofing

Corrugated roofing has earned the trust of consumers due to its reliability and attractive appearance. A metal sandwich pipe can be installed on a corrugated roofing roof as follows:

the installation location is marked on the surface of the corrugated sheet;
Using a grinder, cut through the corrugated sheet, stepping back a couple of centimeters inward. You need to cut corrugated sheets very carefully so that notches do not form;
Having made cuts in the corners of the holes, bend the corrugated sheet upwards;
now we cut through the ceiling, making a similar hole;
install a metal box through which the sandwich pipe needs to be routed;
Having installed the sandwich pipe onto the roof made of corrugated sheets, put mineral wool into the box or pour expanded clay;
A silicone seal is put on the sandwich pipe and glued to the corrugated sheet, forming a sealed chimney pipe outlet unit.

Metal scissors for corrugated sheets

Corrugated sheeting can be easily processed using ordinary metal cutting scissors. Use hand tools or modifications with mechanical and electrical drives.

Cutting with scissors has the following positive aspects:

allows you to cut the material into strips;
cross cuts are performed without edge deformation;
adjustment work is carried out directly at the installation site;
allow you to cut geometric shapes of different shapes from corrugated sheets.

it is inconvenient to use if the cutting site (line) is located near the base of the wave;
long sections do not turn out smooth;
When cutting a sheet with the edge of the blades, a burr is formed.

We use scissors only to fit the sheets in place. Cutting a large amount of material takes considerable time.

Types of chimneys

Installation and sealing The principle of installing pipes with a round cross-section is the same, regardless of the material of manufacture. The most difficult process is cutting a neat hole in the corrugated sheet. The diameters of the pipe and the cutout must match each other. Insulation is carried out using a special Master-Flash seal, which is a stepped pyramid made of rubber or silicone. This nozzle provides complete sealing of the gap, is resistant to any weather conditions and can withstand temperature changes from 70 to 135 degrees. The base of the seal is made of soft aluminum, the inner side is corrugated. Master-Flash fits tightly onto the pipe (the diameter should be 20% smaller than that of the chimney, and for easy sliding a small amount of liquid soap or dishwashing detergent is applied to the surface - this is recommended experienced craftsmen). Then the base is crimped along the profile of the flooring, glued with silicone and fixed in the depressions with self-tapping screws.

The junction of the pipe and the upper ring of the seal pyramid is also sealed with liquid silicone.

Passing a pipe through the roof of a bathhouse The primary task is to properly remove the chimney, ensure fire safety and insulate the joint. The rules and principle of installation are the same as for the house - place it as close to the ridge as possible to avoid the load of large snow pillows and the installation of snow retainers. If the structure is single-pitched, the best option would be to place the pipeline as close as possible to the very top part. It is necessary to take into account the functional features of the structure - the roof of the bathhouse provides for the presence of a volumetric layer of insulation to ensure enhanced thermal insulation of the room. To guarantee fire safety and not to violate the integrity of the heat-protective layer, it is better to route the pipe through a special box. It is mounted between the rafters, placing additional supports and cross beams in such a way that the minimum distance from the chimney to combustible materials is at least 13-25 cm. Then the pipe is fixed on the surface of the corrugated sheet using an apron, and all gaps and joints are sealed.

How to make a hole for a large diameter hood yourself

There are situations when there is a need to make a hole for a relatively large diameter hood in a brick or concrete wall in an apartment.

Such openings may also be in demand for air inflow or outlet in outbuildings or for exhausting boiler equipment with a closed combustion chamber. When you have diamond bits of suitable diameter and a high-power hammer drill, that’s great, but you ask, what to do if you don’t have all this? You definitely can’t do this without using a hammer drill, but you can do it without an expensive diamond crown (since it will be expensive to purchase just for once).

So, in order to make a hole of a suitable diameter, you will need, as indicated before, a hammer drill, a drill (drill) of the required size with a Pobedite tip and a chisel to knock out the middle of the hole.

First, we decide on the size of the diameter we need and draw a circle in the required area on the wall. To use a pipe whose diameter is 12 cm, the hole should be marked a couple of cm larger, in our case 14 cm, since the drill may move slightly to the side during the work, for this reason it is advisable to immediately make a small reserve.

Next, you should mark points on the circle at a distance of 2-3 cm, in those places where you need to drill a hole with our drill. The more holes you drill, the easier it will be to remove the brick from the wall. On the circle we need with a diameter of 14 cm, it is advisable to drill up to 20 holes.

First, you need to determine the thickness of the wall and choose the right drill length so that it drills right through the wall.

Let's start drilling the holes. We set the hammer drill to the “drill-impact” mode and drill according to the hole marks. It is important not to forget about your own safety: if you have to work high from the floor, therefore, the base or support where you stand must be securely fixed.

Considering there are a lot of holes to be drilled, expect a lot of dust. All furniture and other items placed in the room must first be covered with a protective film or some material so that they do not deteriorate from contamination and subsequently simplify the cleaning process. Many people mistakenly apply excessive force to the hammer when drilling; this should not be done; this is why the “drilling-impact” mode is provided. We drill through the wall until the drill comes out on the other side. At the end of drilling we get a circle with holes.

Having finished the drilling process, remove the drill from the hammer drill; it will not be needed in the future. We install a chisel in the hammer drill and switch it to the “jackhammer” mode without the drilling function and one by one knock out the jumpers between the holes. You can also knock out a brick from the center of the circle, beating it with a chisel from the center to the circumference. If the chisel is short and does not penetrate through the wall, it is possible to work with a hammer drill on the other side of the wall. This option can only be done low from the floor; at a height you will need to buy a chisel according to the thickness of the wall. As a result, our wall will have a hole of the planned diameter.

Repairing leaks

The main cause of leakage at the joints of the pipe and roof is a violation of the tightness of the apron structures.

Before installing it, the roof should be cleaned of dust with a wire brush.

The tape is laid in several layers along the bottom of the pipe and along the adjacent corrugated sheet (or along the apron). Then it must be heated with a burner and pressed down with a wooden plank.

This type of gasket can last for several years.

Serious leaks can only be repaired by replacing the flashing.

Moisture can also get under the roof due to excessive condensate production by the pipe. To reduce its amount, you can build an umbrella on the chimney. Umbrellas are made from metals such as copper, galvanized steel and stainless steel. The cap not only reduces the volume of condensation, but also extinguishes sparks coming out of the chimney, increasing the fire safety of the structure.

If the chimney is located close to the edges of the slopes, then leaks may occur due to the accumulation of large amounts of snow masses. To eliminate this problem, the apron is supplemented with a triangular convex structure (with mandatory sealing), which will separate the snow and simplify its removal.

Roof cutting of rectangular pipes

For roof cutting of pipes made of bricks or blocks, special elements are used - metal aprons, ties, wall profiles. Self-adhesive film and sealants are also used to seal joints.

Cutting rectangular pipes from bricks or blocks

A pipe made of bricks or blocks is usually placed on a foundation, so it is quite stable. Its additional fastening is possible with the help of special brackets, but they should not provide a rigid connection with the roof, otherwise if the roof is damaged, deformation and destruction of the pipe may occur, which can lead to a fire.

Technology of roof cutting of brick pipes

The cutting is carried out after installing the sheathing and waterproofing, on top of the counter-lattice made of planed boards. Connection strips are applied to the pipe walls and a contour is drawn along the upper protruding edge.

Marking the contour for the junction bar

A groove is cut along the resulting contour using a grinder and a diamond disk.

Grooving a groove for the abutment strip

Sweep away the dust with a broom and wash it off with a stream of water, possibly from a plastic bottle.

Removing dust with a broom and water

Place the junction strip at the bottom edge of the pipe, mark its dimensions with a marker and, using metal scissors, cut out the vertical part of the junction strip on both sides. Apply the junction strip to the pipe and carefully hammer its edge into the groove in the brickwork.

Installing an abutment strip on a pipe

The plank itself is attached to the sheathing with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver.

Fastening the bottom abutment strip

The side strips are marked in the same way and the protruding vertical part is cut off. Fasten both side strips with self-tapping screws so that they are on top of the bottom one. The upper junction bar is secured in the same way.

Fastening the side abutment strips

All joints between the slats and the pipe are sealed.

Install a tie and bend the gutter on it so that any moisture that accidentally gets on it drains from the roof without getting onto the sheathing.

Tie fastening and gutter hem

The roof covering is laid using a special technology. The aprons are installed in the same sequence as the abutment strips: the lower apron, the side ones, and then the top apron - it is placed so that it is under the overlying sheet of roofing. If the pipe is close to the ridge, then the upper apron is placed under it.

Attaching aprons over roofing

Video - roof cutting of a brick chimney

The roof cutting of a chimney is an important stage of construction; when performing it, it is important not to skimp on materials and to follow the sequence of operations. Only in this case will you be guaranteed safety and comfort, without fires or leaking roofs.

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Causes of leaks

On the roof, many holes are made from corrugated sheeting, through which the chimney and ventilation ducts exit; they violate the integrity of the waterproofing layer, leading to leaks. The most difficult thing to do is to waterproof the joint between the pipe and the roofing pie, if the installation is carried out after the roofing work has been completed, in which case it is extremely problematic to ensure a tight fit of the corrugated sheeting to the chimney wall. If the finishing of the pipe passage on the roof is done poorly, the following problems arise in the design:

Leaks. If the chimney is installed on the roof and the joint between it and the corrugated sheeting is not properly sealed, leaks will occur in the structure.
Rotting of the rafter frame. The flow of water through the joint between the corrugated sheet and the chimney leads to dampness of the wooden structural elements, and then to rotting and deformation of the rafters.
Roofing corrosion. When moisture appears under the corrugated sheet, it begins to corrode, since the protection on the inside of the material is not as reliable as on the outside, since the outside of the profiled sheet is covered with a polymer protective film, and the bottom only with varnish.
Damp insulation. If you do not seal the joint on the roof where the chimney exits, moisture penetrates into the thermal insulation material, reducing the effectiveness of insulation by half.

Installation of pipe passage through the roof

Note! High-quality finishing of the joint between the corrugated sheet and the stove or ventilation pipe is considered the key to long-term operation and reliability of the roofing. To seal this seam, use silicone sealant, a galvanized steel apron, self-adhesive waterproofing tapes, silicone or rubber elastic penetrations

Round exit to the roof

The arrangement of the passage of a round pipe through a metal roof is simplified by the presence of a ready-made elastic roofing penetration.

Manufacturers offer a large selection of colors. The material from which the elastic penetration for a round pipe is made ensures a tight connection between the pipe and the roof covering of any configuration. It reliably protects the connection point in the temperature range from -74 to 260 degrees.

Note! An elastic roof penetration can be used not only to install a sandwich pipe, but also to arrange the passage of a television antenna and ventilation ducts onto a metal roof.

Edge protection against corrosion

Regardless of which tool you select, the cut site will be damaged. Additional protection of the edges of corrugated sheets from corrosion will extend their service life.

In general, the drilling and cutting areas are resistant to corrosion, even if the protective coating is completely absent. Zinc molecules near the cut create a barrier that prevents oxidation of the sheet.

But this does not apply to cutting metal with a grinder or a manual circular saw.

Open metal is most susceptible to the influence of harmful external and chemical factors, and therefore quickly succumbs to destruction (rusts). To extend the service life, anti-corrosion and moisture-resistant preparations are manually applied to the edges of the cut, and then covered with factory paint, which should be included, or with a can of paint selected by color.

Taking into account the information provided, everyone will be able to decide for themselves what is the best way to cut the profile flooring

It is important to remember that the speed of work, the durability of the material and its aesthetic appearance depend on the choice of the right tool.

Jigsaw for cutting metal sheets

The tool is used for cutting straight and curved sections. For work, we select a special metal blade with a minimum pitch and tooth height. In addition, the saw width should not exceed 4 mm if it is necessary to cut small radius curves.

We use an electric jigsaw:

for profiled sheets with a height of no more than 40 mm;
for longitudinal and transverse cutting of small pieces;
When cutting long sections along the wave, we use a manual clamp to eliminate vibration of the sheet.

The disadvantages of the method include:

limitation of the processed sheet thickness due to the length of the saw blade;
low cutting speed and high noise level;
vibrations of the material due to the stroke of the saw, which affects the accuracy of the cut.

It is recommended to use a jigsaw for cutting holes, grooves and other complex geometric elements.

Hacksaw blade

An even simpler solution would be to use a hacksaw blade for metal. Here we will repeat approximately the same actions as when working with a jigsaw. In terms of its availability, this option can be considered the most acceptable in most cases.

It is important to note that you should be careful when working with the blade, because it is quite possible to get injured when sawing. To avoid this, you can take simple precautions, for example, wrap one side of the fabric in several layers with electrical tape or put heat-shrink tubing over it. If not needed, such an improvised handle can be removed

If not needed, such an improvised handle can be removed.

Electric scissors

This is the most convenient tool for cutting sheet metal . It combines the cutting precision of a hand saw, the speed of a grinder or jigsaw and the quality of a circular saw. Electric scissors can be used to cut almost any broken or smooth curves, holes, grooves and other geometric shapes. The battery-powered modification allows installation and adjustment of corrugated sheets without power supply directly on site. The disadvantage is the high cost of the device.

How to remove a pipe through a roof made of corrugated sheets

In the sheet of corrugated sheets that will surround the chimney, contours are outlined with length and width parameters corresponding to the dimensions of the chimney. Then, using a grinder, you need to cut a hole with a slight indentation from the contours.

Holes are also made in the elements of the roofing pie; when calculating their width, it is necessary to take into account not only the pipe’s own dimensions, but also the dimensions of the protective box that will separate the chimney from the contents of the pie. The sheathing at the junction must be continuous.
How to make a pipe passage through a corrugated roof? The pipe must be tightly surrounded by external and internal aprons. The inner apron is located under the corrugated sheets (with the exception of the part that fits the pipe wall), it is attached to the sheathing. A stainless steel groove extends from it, which should go around the chimney on all sides and goes directly to the ends of the slopes to the eaves strip. Precipitation and condensation will flow down it.
If the pipe is made of brick, then the edges of the apron adjacent to it must be bent at the ends and inserted into the grooves. Grooves are small holes in the bricks (but not in the seams between them), which are made using a grinder.

There should be a layer of waterproofing under the bottom apron. Waterproofing a pipe on a corrugated roof is carried out in the following order:

The outer apron is installed on a sheet of corrugated sheeting and is also attached to the sheathing. For the most part, it performs a decorative function, making the joint between the chimney and the roof smoother, but this element also provides additional protection.
You can make aprons yourself from a solid zinc sheet, or you can purchase a set of ready-made flashing strips. The first option is more complicated, since it requires cutting and bending the edges of the hole in the sheet yourself. But the second option involves additional spending of money.

Sectional installation diagram

Parts of the apron adjacent to the chimney must be sealed with sealant.

It is more difficult to cut holes in corrugated sheeting and in the roofing pie for pipes with a round cross-section than for rectangular chimneys, but their insulation can be done using simple methods. Master-Flash attachments are used for this. These are rubber or silicone products in the shape of a stepped pyramid with a circular cross-section. They fit the chimney tightly and are securely attached to the corrugated sheet.

The base of the nozzle is made of aluminum. The reverse side of the product has a corrugated surface, which increases its tightness.

Installation of a round pipe

So, how to sheathe a pipe on the roof with corrugated sheeting if it is round? Before installing the nozzle, it is necessary to cut off such a number of pyramid rings that will ensure the hole diameter is 20% smaller than the diameter of the pipe. The Master Flush is then pulled down the pipe from top to bottom. The base is glued to the corrugated sheet using silicone and attached to it with screws. The area where the rings of the product meet the pipe is sealed with silicone.

IMPORTANT!

You can only pull the product by its cone. If you apply force to its base, it may become unusable. You can also seal round pipes using self-adhesive lead tapes

You can also seal round pipes using self-adhesive lead tapes.

Varieties

The elements differ from each other according to the material of manufacture:

Brick chimneys. This is a classic option, which is distinguished by its reliability and undemanding finishing . Red brick is used for the production of products. To lay bricks, you must use a special fire-resistant mortar. Lime mortar works well.
Steel chimneys. This is a budget option, characterized by ease of installation, light weight and a large selection of section sizes. But steel pipes burn out quickly, and their safe service life is relatively short.
Sandwiches. These chimneys consist of several metal pipes of different sizes placed inside each other. Between them there are layers of thermal insulation. Sandwiches retain the advantages of simple steel chimneys without their disadvantages. The main disadvantages of such structures are the high price and the possibility of depressurization during sudden temperature changes , which can render the pipe completely unusable.
Modular chimneys. Like sandwiches, these chimneys are multi-layered. They consist of layers of metal and fireclay (fireclay). Between them there is a layer of basalt insulation. The pipe body is made of lightweight concrete . If there is a layer of clay inside, then the chimneys are called fireclay; if there is a metal pipe inside, then the design is called modular.

Steel chimney

Sandwich

Brick chimney

Modular chimney

There are complex pipe designs that cost a lot of money to produce and install. They are rarely used in construction. This includes glass structures.

CAREFULLY!

It is strictly not recommended to use asbestos cement pipes. Their fire resistance is low, and when heated they release carcinogens that poison the surrounding air.

How to remove a pipe through a roof made of corrugated sheets

But SNiP does not indicate where it is preferable to locate the pipe passage through a corrugated roof. At the same time, experts advise placing it on the ridge, or as close to it as possible.

First, it will prevent smoke from entering the attic.
Secondly, the smallest part of the chimney will remain in the cold zone, which will prevent the formation of condensation.

Roofs made of corrugated sheets have earned the trust of private developers due to their light weight, long service life and appearance that imitates the relief of traditional ceramic tiles. Sheets of corrugated sheets are thin, durable, corrosion-resistant metal, which is coated with a layer of paint and, using pressing, gives the surface the desired shape. The rules for the installation of smoke and ventilation ducts are regulated by SNiP 41-01-2003 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”. However, there are no requirements for the location of chimneys in the regulatory documents. Only the height of the chimney is clearly and unambiguously regulated. Most experts believe that it is better to place the pipe outlet through corrugated sheeting as close as possible to the ridge of the building’s roof. In this case, the smallest part of it ends up in the cold zone, and this significantly reduces the likelihood of condensation occurring when cooling the flue gases. This phenomenon is quite unpleasant, since the condensate formed on the outer or inner surface of the chimney contains aggressive acids that destroy the brickwork of the chimneys. No less problems arise when chimney or ventilation pipes pass through a roof with an already insulated roofing pie. The main difficulty in this case is the need to ensure fire safety with simultaneous continuity of vapor and waterproofing. The chimney should not be located close to the wooden rafters. Therefore, the passage of the chimney is usually carried out in a separate box, consisting of two rafters located next to the chimney, and two beams fixed between these rafters below and above the chimney. The distance from the rafters and cross beams to the chimney is selected based on fire safety requirements. Depending on the material from which the pipe is made, this size should be from 130 to 250 mm. The inside of the box is filled with non-flammable high-density insulation made from basalt fiber, since such material is less hygroscopic than conventional roofing insulation. At the same time, to ensure the tightness of the roof, the vapor and waterproofing sheets in the place where the pipes pass are cut through an envelope, the edges of which are secured outside the wooden box.

Before cutting out the corrugated sheeting for the pipe, a continuous sheathing must be made in the passage area. It allows you to securely fasten the lower abutment strip and the edges of the corrugated roofing sheeting near the pipe walls.

It is advisable to make a hole for the exit of the chimney pipe at the highest point of the roof, and therefore closer to the ridge. The optimal distance from it to the chimney is considered to be 50–80 centimeters.
Before you make a hole for the pipe in the corrugated sheet, you should make sure that it does not fall on the elements of the rafter system. To bypass them, bends are used, with the help of which a rotation of 45 or 90 degrees is set.
The length of the chimney segments is selected so that the joints between them are below or above the intersection of the roof and ceilings, otherwise a high-quality connection will not work.
It will be possible to achieve the required level of draft if the height of the chimney structure exceeds this parameter at the ridge by 1–1.5 meters.
To ensure that the hatch location is correct, mark it on the roof with a marker and check the temperature at the end of the day. The pipe must remain in the cold zone at all times.

Video instruction

If you correctly lay corrugated sheeting on the roof, then this is a 100% guarantee to avoid leaks. And this is the most important criterion for the reliability of a roofing covering. However, it should be noted that in any roof structure there are several elements that create an abutment to the profiled sheets. These are ridge, valleys, front strips and so on. But, as practice shows, the most dangerous element where leaks can occur is the pipe sticking out of the roof. Most often these are chimneys.

Old stove makers, knowing about this problem, made a special thickening when erecting a brick chimney. Nowadays, almost no one remembers this, especially since modern pipes have a round cross-section and are often made of metal or other materials, but not brick. Because the latter option is difficult to execute and requires knowledge of certain nuances of the structure, which young craftsmen do not even know about.

What needs to be done to ensure that leaks do not occur at the junction of the pipe and corrugated sheeting? Good sealing of joints is required. Although experts note that the location of the chimney will also affect this problem, because installing it closer to the overhang (eaves) creates conditions for increasing the volume of water that flows down the roof slope. The more water there is, the more likely it is to leak.

But that's not all. Experts note that the chimney installed higher up the slope has the shortest length, which is located in the cold air zone. And this is minimal condensation of moist air, which causes the growth of soot and dust on the internal surfaces of the pipe structure.

Plus, when the exhaust gases condense, acid forms on the walls of the pipe, which corrodes the material (brick, metal, etc.). By the way, in SNiP number 41-01-2003 under the title “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning” the installation height of the chimney is precisely indicated, but nothing is said about the exact installation location.

Let's look separately at several designs of chimney pipes passing through a corrugated roof. And let’s decide how to seal the joints between them.

Connection of corrugated sheeting to a chimney pipe with a rectangular cross-section

Currently, manufacturers have made sure that the junctions and joints between some elements of the roofing structure are reliably protected from the penetration of precipitation. For this purpose, additional elements are produced for the valley, ridge and abutment areas. The same additional materials are also available for sealing the gap between pipes passing through corrugated sheeting. And this element is called an apron.

The main purpose of the apron is to collect all the water flowing down the stove chimney and along the roof slopes, and divert it to the eaves into the drainage system. But there is one very important point in the installation process of installing an apron. It is necessary to carry out waterproofing correctly. Everyone knows that a waterproofing film must be installed under the corrugated sheeting, and it does not matter whether the roof is insulated or not.

But that is not all. A reinforced waterproofing layer is required at the junction points. Therefore, most often a special waterproofing tape is installed under the apron. In addition, it should be located under the upper strips of the apron and lie partially on the corrugated sheet. In essence, you get double protection. The waterproofing installation scheme is as follows:

First it is applied to the lower edge of the chimney.
Then the abutment joints on the sides of the pipe structure are sealed.
And the last one is the upper edge closest to the ridge of the roof.

Situations often arise when it becomes necessary to install a stove chimney through an already erected corrugated roof. It’s not difficult to do this today, but there is one caveat. It is necessary to make the hole (passage) in the corrugated sheet smaller than the size of the pipe by approximately 1.5-2.0 cm. It is clear that the chimney will not fit into such a passage, so the edge at the corners of the hole is cut and bent.

Let us add that the complexity of constructing a waterproofing barrier depends mainly on where the pipe is installed.

The junction of the pipe drawn through the passage in the ridge on the roof made of corrugated sheets

The easiest way to seal a pipe running through corrugated sheeting is when it sticks out from the ridge of the roof. In addition, this option provides maximum reliability, because snow pockets do not form in this design. It is their presence that increases the likelihood of leaks. True, this option also has its own rather big disadvantage.

Attention! Usually the space between the apron and the corrugated sheet is filled with silicone sealant. Today, manufacturers offer the use of self-adhesive tapes made from butyl rubber.

The upper junction between the apron and the pipe itself is sealed using standard technology. That is, using the upper strips of the apron, which must be sealed on top with silicone sealant.

The junction of the pipe passing through the passage in the roof slope

Unfortunately, the layout of the house does not always allow the pipe to be brought out through the ridge on the roof, and, accordingly, to make a passage through it. Therefore, another option remains - passing through the corrugated sheeting on the roof slope. And this option, as practice shows, is the most difficult in terms of carrying out waterproofing and protective work.

To begin with, the main task is to correctly install the top of the apron. Therefore, the main requirement is to install this element under the corrugated sheet.

Attention! If the upper plane of the pipe is larger than 80 cm, then it is necessary to install a shaped apron on it, which has such a part as a slope.

Look at the photo below and you will immediately understand everything. This is similar to a breakwater that diverts water flowing down the roof in two different directions from the pipe.

Installing such an apron is quite difficult. In addition, at the junction of its parts and the corrugated sheeting, two valleys are formed, which are sealed in the same way as the valleys on the corrugated sheet roof itself. That is, installation of additional metal strips and enhanced waterproofing.

Connection of corrugated sheeting to a chimney with a round cross-section

Today, modern stoves are equipped with round chimneys, which are made of metal sheets laid in several layers with insulation. There are many options for sealing such structures.

Here are just the most frequently used ones.

The passage of such a pipe is sealed using bitumen-based materials. Roll types are most often used for this operation.
Installation of self-adhesive foil tape with a bitumen bottom layer. By the way, foil is an excellent protective layer that resists sunlight.
Installation of special aprons, which are available in the form of caps. They are also called roof passage. A fairly simple and reliable device. It is put on a round pipe and the edges are attached to the roof sheathing.

If there is a heated attic under the roof of the house, then the passage under the pipe must not only be sealed, but also insulated. The gap between the pipe and the apron is laid with a special heat-resistant gasket. It is attached to the plane of a round pipe.

As you can see, there are different ways to close the gap between the furnace or ventilation pipe. It all depends on the shape of the pipe element. The main thing is to strictly follow the technology for installing the apron, because it is an important link in sealing the abutment area.

Corrugated roof
Calculation of corrugated sheeting for the roof
Which corrugated sheet to choose for the roof
How to properly lay corrugated sheeting on the roof

Currently, there are many roofing materials on the construction market that are used for high-quality and beautiful roof coverings. Corrugated sheeting, a multi-layer protective building material, has gained wide popularity. When creating a roof, special attention should be paid to sealing the pipe through the roof.

Improper installation of the passage for smoke and ventilation leads to leaks and depressurization of the roof. In this article, the reader will learn how to properly seal a roof pipe.

Finishing features

Now you need to trim the space around the pipe from the outside

It is important to close the gaps correctly between the corrugated sheets so that various types of precipitation do not get there. To do this, you can sheathe the space using galvanized metal or stainless steel

This design is a base made of a flat sheet, to which a cone with a cut off top is attached. It is put on the chimney, after which it is sealed, and the base is fixed to the roof covering. This allows you to get a high-quality and reliable unit that will be reliably protected for decades.

It should be added that there are alternative solutions for finishing this area using a steel apron or aprons made of rubber. In addition, recently a new word has been used in this matter - self-adhesive foil tape, which is made of modified bitumen. This material is equipped with a bitumen layer, which is self-adhesive. In turn, it has a silicone film that must be removed before gluing. And the foil-type top layer perfectly protects the tape from heat and the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation.

Non-standard equipment

Sheet material is cut in a factory using plasma or laser cutting. Such equipment is stationary and allows you to perform precise work on a large scale. The laser allows you to cut holes from 1 mm in diameter and cut lines of any configuration. The work is carried out automatically. Cutting drawings are entered into a computer system that controls the process at all stages.

Repairing leaks

The main cause of leakage at the joints of the pipe and roof is a violation of the tightness of the apron structures. To solve this problem, it is necessary to build an additional external apron from bitumen tape.

Before installing it, the roof should be cleaned of dust with a wire brush.

This type of gasket can last for several years.

Serious leaks can only be repaired by replacing the flashing.

Related article: Do-it-yourself gable roof

Measurements and calculations

On a roof with a ridge, the height is calculated depending on the interval between the pipe and the ridge:

With an interval of 1.5 meters, the height of the pipe should be 0.5 meters higher than the roof ridge.
With an interval of 1.5 to 3 meters, the ridge and pipe should be at the same level.
If the interval between the pipe and the ridge is more than 3 meters, then the length of the pipe above the roof can be determined based on a line that runs at an angle of 10 degrees from the ridge run to the horizon.

Thermal insulation materials, waterproofing and vapor barrier should be at a distance of 15 cm from the brick or concrete chimney; if the pipe is a ceramic product, then the permissible distance is 25 cm.

Selecting an output location

Choosing a convenient place to make a hole in the roof from corrugated sheets for the chimney pipe is half the success. Naturally, the decisive factor in this matter is the location of the stove. Professional stove makers recommend positioning the chimney strictly vertically, but there are more subtle nuances:

Scheme of the chimney outlet through the corrugated roof

It is best to place the hole for the chimney outlet at the highest point of the roof, that is, closer to the ridge. The optimal distance from the ridge to the pipe is 50-80 cm.
It is advisable that the hole in the corrugated roof for the pipe does not fall on the elements of the rafter system. To bypass them, use bends and corner sections of the chimney. Using them, you can set the rotation to 90 or 45 degrees.
The length of the chimney pipe segments is calculated so that the joints are located above or below the places where the ceilings and corrugated roofing pass. Otherwise, making a quality connection will be problematic.
To ensure good traction, the system should be 1-1.5 larger than the roof ridge. If the pipe is too high, the flow of smoke will have time to cool while passing through it, which leads to the appearance of condensation.

To check whether you have correctly identified the exit location of the future chimney, draw a mark on the corrugated roof with a marker and check its temperature at the end of the day - the pipe should be located in the “cold zone”, that is, remain in the shade for almost the entire day.

Preparatory stage of work

To avoid any difficulties during the pipe installation process, you need to prepare the work site and tools in advance. A hole from corrugated sheeting is cut according to the following technology:

After determining the configuration of the chimney, they plan where the exit to the roof will be located. Let us remind you that it is better to place the pipe vertically. The cross-sectional size of the chimney pipes is selected based on the recommendations of the heating device manufacturer. The thicker and higher the pipe, the better smoke removal from the stove

It is important that all segments are of the same cross-section and fit each other, and are inserted without creating a gap. On a corrugated roof, mark the outline of the pipe using a permanent marker. Using a grinder with a thin metal cutter, cut out a hole, moving a couple of centimeters inward from the intended line. You should work with corrugated sheeting carefully and slowly so that the edge of the cut is smooth, without jagged edges that could cause injury during the pipe removal process. You need to make short cuts in the corners of the hole to bend the edges of the corrugated board upward. They cut out the same thing in the ceiling, weigh it

A metal box is installed that will connect the pipe to the rafters. The chimney will pass through the hole inside the box; the distance between their walls should be at least 15 cm.

The insulation, waterproofing film, and vapor barrier membrane are removed from the hole made in the roof. It is necessary that the hole goes through.

Exiting the chimney pipe to the roof

All the preparatory work has been done, all that remains is to correctly connect the pipe and put the chimney into operation. To bring the chimney to the roof you need to:

Diagram of pipe insertion on a corrugated roof

Insert a chimney pipe through the hole in the box and direct it to the roof. Using adhesive tape, the edges of the waterproofing film and vapor barrier membrane are securely fixed to the surface of the chimney.
Fill the box tightly with expanded clay or lay mineral wool. These types of insulation are not subject to fire, so they thermally insulate the pipe and protect against sudden ignition of the wooden elements of the rafter system and sheathing.
Place a rubber or silicone seal on the pipe, which protects against moisture seepage at the outlet. To ensure better waterproofing, the seal is glued to the corrugated sheet with a fire-resistant sealant.
Install the chimney with new segments to the required height, tightening the joints with galvanized steel clamps.
After this, all that remains is to make it beautiful - install an outer apron to match the color of the metal tile, which covers the rubber seal and the box.

Installing a decorative outdoor splashback

Do not be afraid of overheating of the waterproofing film from the surface of the chimney; it is reliably protected from fire by mineral wool or expanded clay placed in the box.

Even a novice craftsman can carry out the installation of a chimney pipe on the roof; the main thing is not to forget that a negligent attitude to this issue can lead to a fire and loss of your property.

Design principles

The chimney in bathhouses is installed to remove harmful products remaining after fuel burnout and provide draft in the stove. The method of leading the pipe through the roofing sheet is chosen during design. The main condition is that the roof must be protected from possible fire, especially in places of contact with the pipe. No moisture should seep through the hole. The height of the chimney is selected depending on the location of the roof ridge and the requirements of SNiP:

At a distance of 150 cm from the highest point of the roof, the pipe should exceed the height of the ridge by 50 cm.
At 150–300 cm, the pipe can be located at the same level as the ridge.
At 300 cm from the ridge, a straight line is drawn at an angle of ten degrees. Below this limit, installation of a chimney is prohibited.

The smoke exhaust passage unit is installed anywhere on the roof. Often a chimney is made at the highest point of a horizontal rib. This installation method is considered simpler, but the rafter system becomes less durable, since the ridge beam is sawed. To strengthen it, you need to install additional supports on the sides of the structure.

It is better to place the pipe close to the ridge element. This ensures the chimney is protected from cold and condensation accumulation.

The opening for the smoke exhaust system can be square, round, oval or rectangular. To protect the roof from sudden heating, a box is installed.

Selecting an output location

Choosing an ergonomic place to make a hole in the roof from corrugated sheets for the chimney pipe is a good half of the success. Of course, the decisive factor in this matter is the placement of the stove. Experienced stove makers advise positioning the chimney strictly vertically, but there are more specific nuances:

It is optimal to place the hole for the chimney outlet at the highest point of the roof, in other words, closer to the ridge. The optimal distance from the ridge to the pipe is 50-80 cm.
It is necessary that the hole in the roof made of corrugated sheets for the pipe does not fall on the elements of the rafter system. In order to bypass them, they use bends and corner sections of the chimney. Using them, it is possible to set the rotation to 90 or 45 degrees.
The length of the chimney pipe segments is calculated so that the joints are above or below the roof passage and the corrugated flooring areas. Otherwise, it will be difficult to make the connection properly.
In order to ensure good draft, the height of the chimney system should be 1-1.5 more than the roof ridge. If the pipe is too high, the flow of smoke will have time to cool down while passing through it, which leads to the appearance of condensation.

In order to check whether you have correctly identified the exit location of the future chimney, draw a mark on the corrugated roof with a marker and make sure its temperature at the end of the day is reliable - the pipe must be located in the “cold area”, in other words, remain in the shade for almost the entire day.

Preparatory stage of work

To avoid any difficulties during the installation of the pipe, it is necessary to prepare the tools and work site in advance. The hole from the corrugated sheet is cut in accordance with the following technology:

After determining the configuration of the chimney, they outline where the exit to the roof will be located. Note that it is better to place the pipe vertically. The cross-sectional size of the chimney pipes is selected based on the recommendations of the heating device manufacturer. The thicker and higher the pipe, the better smoke removal from the stove

It is fundamentally important that all segments are of the same cross-section and reach each other and are inserted without forming a gap. On a corrugated roof, mark the outline of the pipe using a permanent marker. Using a grinder with a narrow metal cutter, cut a hole, moving a few centimeters inward from the intended line. Work with corrugated sheets carefully and slowly, so that the edge of the cut is smooth, without jagged edges, which could cause injury when removing the pipe. It is necessary to make small cuts in the corners of the hole in order to bend the edges of the corrugated board upward. They cut out the same thing in the ceiling, weigh it

An iron box is installed that will connect the pipe to the rafters. The chimney will pass through the hole in the duct; the distance between their walls should be at least 15 cm.

The insulation, waterproofing film, and vapor barrier membrane are removed from the hole made in the roof. It is necessary that the hole goes through.

For northern regions, where the insulation layer exceeds 150 mm, sandwich pipes are recommended, which are made up of two heat-insulating materials and layers of metal between them.

Exiting the chimney pipe to the roof

All the preparatory work has been done, all that remains is to correctly connect the pipe and put the chimney into operation. To bring the chimney to the roof you need to:

Insert a chimney pipe through the hole in the box and direct it to the roof. Using adhesive tape, the edges of the waterproofing vapor barrier membrane and film are securely fixed to the surface of the chimney.
It is good to fill the box with expanded clay or lay mineral wool. These types of insulation are not subject to fire; therefore, they thermally insulate the pipe and protect against unexpected ignition of the wood elements of the rafter sheathing and system.
Place a rubber or silicone seal on the pipe, which protects against liquid leakage at the outlet. In order to ensure better waterproofing, the seal is glued to the corrugated sheet with a fire-resistant sealant.
The chimney is raised with new segments to the required height, tightening the joints with galvanized steel clamps.
Then all that remains is to make it beautiful - install an outer apron to match the color of the metal tile, which covers the box and rubber seal.

Do not be afraid of overheating of the waterproofing film from the surface of the chimney; it is reliably protected from fire by mineral wool or expanded clay placed in the box.

Even a novice craftsman can carry out the installation of a chimney pipe on the roof; the main thing to remember is that a negligent attitude to this issue can lead to the loss and fire of your property.

Workflow - step-by-step technology

Surely you are wondering whether it is possible to install high-quality and reliable ventilation (chimney) yourself and at the same time save not only money, but also time - our answer is positive. The sections below will describe detailed instructions to confirm that this process is possible for independent mastery.

Stage one - preparatory

Initially, you should prepare everything necessary for subsequent work:

Purchase a pipe, if not available, and fire retardant material.
Fastening materials.
Tool: Building level.
Welding machine - in case the pipe has to be joined.
Screwdriver.
Hammer.
Jigsaw and grinder.
Wooden beam.
Finishing material.

Chimney design, which indicates the exact location of the future ventilation outlet.

For your information! The drawing does not have to be professional, the main thing is to indicate in it all the main points: the diameter and height of the chimney, communications that will need to be bypassed, etc.

Stage two - roof preparation

Now let's move on to the process where you already need to work with your own hands:

To begin with, on the roof we measure the distance from any rafter beam, which is half a meter plus the diameter of the ventilation pipe.
We build another beam in the indicated place to increase the stability of the roof.
Using a regular plumb line from the center of the measured distance, we measure a point on the floor of the attic or attic.
Around this point we attach a vertical and horizontal beam so that there is an equal distance from each edge to the pipe (its center is the measured point).

Instead of timber, you can use a metal profile

We drill a hole through in the indicated place so that a hole is formed on the ceiling of the first floor. According to the plan, this should be exactly above the stove or half a meter from this place.

Note! It is better to route the ventilation pipe to the roof strictly vertically, this allows for efficient pumping of carbon monoxide from the room.

As a result, we should get a reinforced box inside which a chimney will be laid. At the same time, it should be installed only in the attic or attic space; in the living room, it is enough to decorate the pipe with finishing materials.

You can avoid the box if you purchase a galvanized pipe casing

The box is necessary for the safe operation of the ventilation system, which often heats up to critical temperatures - protection for both those living in the house and for flammable materials.

Stage three - through hole

Now let's move on to preparing a specific place for the passage of the ventilation pipe in the ceiling of the first floor/floor of the attic:

If the ceiling is made of wood, you can cut a circle of the required diameter using a chainsaw. We remind you that you need to add 15-20 sms on each side to the diameter of the pipe itself.
If you have to work with a concrete slab, then a long drill and a hammer drill will help you with this - the tool drills many holes in a circle. A very weakened piece of the slab is knocked out with a sledgehammer.

Forstner drill

Randomly stopping the drill and pulling out the drill, we found that the result for the blind hole was simply perfect. Having continued drilling, we were pleased with the result, which eclipsed the result of the feather drill by at least one point. The edges are completely even, the inner wall looks smoother than in the previous experiment, the diameter is 32.1 mm. Now that there is something to compare the feather drill with, the points can be impartially distributed in this way: the feather drill is 4 points, the Forstner drill is 5 points. We consider a deviation of 0.1 mm to be uncritical, so for those hinges it is better to make the hole a couple of 10 mm larger.

Input Output Inner surface after cutter

Feather drill

This drill is used for drilling holes with a diameter of 10 to 25 mm, although variations are possible. The main advantage of such a drill is its low cost. The main shortcomings are poor direction, low accuracy, low surface cleanliness of the hole walls, stagnation of chips and the need to frequently stop drilling to clean the hole.

kak.hepcinatvp.ru

07/19/2019 admin Comments No comments

A chimney on the roof of a house affects the fire safety of the building, the efficiency of the home’s heating system, and even the aesthetics of the exterior design. After all, this element of the chimney system affects the draft in the air duct, the tightness of the roof, and the contours of the facade of the house. In this article we will tell our readers how to bring a pipe through the roof without disturbing the tightness of the roof, free air exchange in the chimney, or the aesthetics of the facade.

Jigsaw

If you need to drill a hole of a large diameter or it is not possible to purchase a special drill, then you can use a simple jigsaw. To do this, markings are made in the right place. After this, you need to use an ordinary drill, the diameter of which will be slightly larger than the width of the jigsaw blade, to make a through hole on the marked mowing line. Next, using the resulting hole as a starting point, a circular cut is made. If necessary, the inner edges of the resulting hole can be sanded.

Other ways

If for some reason the above methods are impossible to use, the problem can be solved in another way. So, for example, a series of holes are drilled using a regular drill according to the markings. They must be performed at a distance of several millimeters from each other. Next, with a light blow of the hammer handle, the inner part is knocked out, and the remaining irregularities are removed using coarse sandpaper.

In addition, you can use a simple stationery knife. As a guide, you can take round object of suitable diameter, such as a saucer or bottle. Several passes with a knife are made around the improvised template, resulting in a fairly neat hole .

Thus, it is obvious that there are quite a lot of options for how to make a hole in drywall for a lamp, so every home craftsman can choose the most suitable method for himself.

Sources:

https://kotokoto.ru/remont/kak-vyrezat-krugloe-oTVerstie-v-dsp.html https://mrgipsokarton.ru/uroki/krugloe-oTVerstie

Do-it-yourself hole using improvised means

The hole at the edge of the tile can be made without using the above options. You will need a glass cutter and tongs/pliers. Stages of work:

Marking the future hole.
Soak the edge in warm water for a few minutes. This will soften the ceramic.
Using a glass cutter, without lifting the tool from the tile, draw a line along the markings. You need to make a fairly deep furrow, so do the work with force, but carefully.
It is necessary to tap along the cut line. This will make the groove deeper.
Using tongs, break off small pieces of the tile at a time until the excess material is completely removed.
If there are any uneven spots, use fine-grit sandpaper to sand down the edge.

Installation work

Having opened the roofing pie, you can proceed to preparing the point for the pipe to pass through the roof.

This operation is performed as follows:

The roofing material, cut diagonally, is bent outward, and the vapor film is folded into the inside of the box. Moreover, the vapor film is attached to the walls of the box with ordinary staples.
The chimney pipe is inserted into the box from the attic side and, lifted, mounted on the hose.
A heat-insulating belt is put on the chimney over the free end of the pipe, from the roof side.
Next, the pipe is fixed to two collapsible clamps with legs in the form of a self-tapping screw, which is screwed into the beam or rafter.
After fixing the chimney, before sealing the pipe on the roof, the box is covered with a metal or asbestos sheet from the attic side.
At the final stage, moisture-resistant, non-flammable insulation (expanded clay) is poured into the box.

After this, the pipe begins to be prepared for sealing the joints between the chimney and the roof.