Preparing the walls
If you have walls made of non-combustible material or the stove will be installed at a distance of more than 50 cm from combustible surfaces, simply skip this point.
For a stove with a remote firebox, make a niche in advance. Use a chainsaw to saw a wooden wall according to the markings, punch a brick wall with a hammer drill and level the ends with a chisel and hammer.
Finished opening
Ways to protect walls from stove heat:
- plastering over metal mesh. Layer thickness >25 mm;
- installation of a protective steel screen (stainless steel) in combination with non-flammable material more than 1 cm thick;
- wall decoration with porcelain stoneware or natural stone over a layer of non-combustible material more than 1 cm thick;
- installation of factory protective screens;
- brick screen.
Fire-resistant plasterboard for insulating walls in a bathhouse
SuperIzol (SUPER ISOL)
Most often, a brick screen is erected to protect walls. It can be located on two or three sides of the stove. Here the screen acts as a barrier separating the hot stove and the flammable walls of the bathhouse, and also accumulates heat and maintains the temperature in the steam room.
Brick base and screen
Brick screen for furnace
You can lay the screen from red solid brick (as well as clinker, bassoon), but it is better to use fireclay, laying it in half a brick. For masonry, cement-sand mortar or fireclay clay is used. A 120 mm thick screen will do its job perfectly.
When laying, they are guided by the following rules:
- the distance from the wall to the brickwork should be from 5 to 15 cm;
- a similar distance of 5-15 cm is taken from the walls of the oven to the masonry;
- the brick screen can be as high as the ceiling, but not lower than the height of the stove + 20 cm. It is optimal if the masonry continues 1 meter above the level of the stove;
- At the bottom of the screen, vents (holes in the masonry) are left, which are necessary for the circulation of hot air masses. It is permissible to install small firebox doors into the masonry and open them when the stove is lit.
The photo shows an opening in the wall and the process of laying a brick screen
Another example of brick laying in a wall opening
Brick screen for a furnace with a remote firebox
This is what the screen looks like from the waiting room
Beautiful carved platbands will hide the cracks
Installing the furnace on the foundation
Not inferior to brickwork in popularity is wall decoration with soapstone, magnesite slabs, and volcanic stone.
Insulation options
There are many non-combustible materials that can be used in this case. The easiest way to protect all surfaces from heat is to place a protective box around a red brick heat source. It is able to protect structures from heat and easily tolerates thermal effects. However, this decoration of the wall around the stove in the house looks a little unaesthetic and you can choose other materials:
- Porcelain tiles and tiles.
- Fiber cement boards.
- Factory-made protective screens.
- Metal sheets.
- Artificial or natural stone.
The easiest way to work is with a ready-made protective screen - you just need to select it according to size and install it on site. This option is also good because such finishing of walls near the stove or fireplace is done in the shortest possible time and without “dirty” or “wet” finishing work. The remaining options are more labor-intensive and have some nuances. Therefore, they need to be considered in more detail.
Protective screen made of red stove brick
Brick barriers often cover the side surfaces of the stove, making the outer skin like a casing. In this way, the separation of combustible surfaces and the hot heating device is carried out.
Protective brick screen - diagram and photo
Since ancient times, there has been a tradition of building stoves from brick or stone. This design took a long time to heat up, but at the same time radiated soft heat, and subsequently cooled down for a long time. Modern metal stoves heat up quickly, emit hard infrared radiation, and the red-hot walls of the stove burn out the oxygen in the bathhouse. In addition, a metal stove is more fire hazardous. In view of these aspects, we can conclude that it is advisable to combine stone or brickwork with steel structures.
Brick screen for a metal stove – photo
Solid fireclay bricks are well suited for constructing a protective casing. A mixture of cement or mixed with refractory clay will serve as a good binder for it. The masonry-screen made of fireclay bricks, according to the value of the safe distance, is made with a thickness of about 12 cm (0.5 bricks) or 6.5 cm (0.25, respectively). However, expensive fireclay bricks are very rarely used in private baths to protect wooden walls; most often, preference is given to red stove bricks.
Installation of a sauna stove and laying a protective brick screen (fireclay bricks)
Red brick screen
Before finishing (lining) a metal stove with red stove bricks, the base is first built.
Foundation diagram
An example of pouring a monolithic base for a brick screen and stove
It is imperative to take into account: if the stove is located not far from the load-bearing wall, then there must be a distance of at least 5 cm between the foundation of the stove and the foundation of the building. To ensure that these two foundations are not connected in any way and the heat from the steam room is not lost, thermal insulation material is laid between them .
The foundation surface should be 15-20 cm below the level of the finished floor of the bathhouse. After installing the foundation (it needs to be allowed to dry for 30 days), moisture-proofing material - roofing felt or roofing felt - is laid on it in 2 layers. Then, bricks are laid on the clay-cement mortar in 2 rows, shifting the bricks among themselves so that the seams of the masonry are covered by the brick lying on top.
Poured foundation
The brick is laid on top of two layers of roofing material secured with bitumen mastic
Laying bricks on a poured base
At this point, the work on arranging the foundation is completed.
A heat-protective base should be made on top of the foundation, consisting of:
- a sheet of metal fixed on top of a layer of heat-insulating material;
- two rows of bricks laid on a wooden floor;
- heat-resistant ceramic tiles.
Tile base for stove
Before covering an iron stove with bricks, you need to prepare the required mortar for laying. The best option for brickwork around a metal stove would be a simple clay mortar (raw materials should be mined at a depth of more than two meters) with sand. The kneading process is not complicated. The clay is first soaked, then the already soaked clay is thoroughly rubbed through a sieve. The sand is sifted and mixed with soaked clay. The viscosity and plasticity of the mortar must be such that it does not squeeze out of the seams during laying. You can add 5-10% cement to the solution for strength.
Preparation of clay solution
The foundation of the protective screen can be made in a quarter of a brick, be sure to leave small holes in its lower part and in the middle part - special windows that create air circulation between the brick screen and the installed stove (sometimes they are equipped with combustion doors). In this case, the bath will heat up very quickly.
Brick fencing for the furnace
Teklar sauna stove with brick screen and air ducts
It is best to line the stove with half a brick. If the screen is made of brick, it will take a very long time to warm up.
Types of bricklaying
The brick screen can be laid all the way to the ceiling. The main condition is that its height must be at least 20 cm greater than the height of the stove.
Metal stove with brick lining
To more reliably protect wooden walls from high temperatures, an acceptable distance has been established between the wall and the constructed brick screen. It should be less than 15 cm, but more than 5 cm, while the distance from the stove to any of the walls can be 20 - 40 cm.
Advantages of basalt cardboard
Thermal insulating basalt cardboard is used during the treatment of areas of thermal equipment that are extremely sensitive to elevated temperatures, such as, for example, the insulation of heating and thermal furnaces, the insulation of dampers, boilers, pipelines, and doors. Basalt sheets are used for a heat-resistant layer between the stove and the floor, pipe and roof, where other materials cannot be used. It is also used for thermal insulation of storage tanks of any type, thermal boxes, mixers and ladles. Basalt cardboard is used as part of various structures, for example, a “sandwich”, which is assembled from layers of paper and cardboard. It can also be used to insulate joints in building structures of various purposes.
Due to its environmental friendliness, this material can be used as thermal insulation for heaters, boilers, and other equipment for household purposes.
- High degree of thermal and noise insulation.
- Fire resistance.
- Environmental Safety.
- Does not affect the corrosion resistance of metals.
- Biologically stable (does not attract rodents and microorganisms).
- Retains properties at high temperatures (up to 700°C).
- It is not resistant to moisture, so additional protection is necessary.
Thermal insulation of heat pipelines, oil and gas pipelines, and other types of communications exposed to temperature changes and other aggressive factors. As an insulating and soundproofing material in the construction of structures for various purposes (industrial and residential). As a thermal insulation material for various containers, tanks, boilers, etc., provided that the surface temperature is between -180 degrees and +700 degrees. Thermal protection and insulation of refrigeration units. As fire protection for air ducts and other structures. As an insulating and soundproofing material in interfloor ceilings and wall partitions.
Basalt cardboard with foil is one of the varieties of basalt cardboard, the main feature of which is the presence of foil on one side. Like other types of similar cardboard, the material is made from basalt rock fibers, which are formed into dense sheets that can have a significant thermal insulation effect. Thanks to the foil layer, this effect is doubled, since the thermal energy is reflected into the room and is retained even better. In addition, basalt cardboard with foil can also be used as sound insulation, as it has excellent sound absorption properties.
This is a non-flammable, fireproof and fire-resistant material that practically does not absorb moisture from the air. Foil basalt cardboard fits perfectly under the screen and pre-furnace sheet to ensure maximum thermal protection of wooden surfaces in the sauna. Able to withstand temperatures up to 1000C. In terms of its characteristics, basalt cardboard is superior to the widespread asbestos cardboard; it has improved sound absorption, thermal conductivity, and service life.
Advantages of Basalt cardboard:
Environmental friendliness. Basalt cardboard is an absolutely environmentally friendly material. It does not contain or emit harmful substances even when exposed to high temperatures. It is used in industries such as microbiology, food industry, pharmaceuticals, which require stricter environmental control of production.
Heat and sound insulation. Thanks to its light fibrous structure and random arrangement of fibers, basalt cardboard has increased heat and sound insulating properties. Its use will allow you to effectively perform high-quality insulation, reducing noise levels and heat loss.
Fire safety. The use of cardboard prevents the spread of flame, which minimizes your risks. The products belong to the group of non-combustible materials (NG). The melting point of the fibers is over 1000C.
Durability. In the absence of mechanical damage, the service life of the material is unlimited.
Ease of installation. The material is easy to handle, allowing you to install it yourself.
The price is for 1 sheet of basalt cardboard.
Arbitrage practice
Many enterprises tried to fight the requirements for widespread implementation of the SP in terms of determining hazard classes for each transport batch of waste. An attempt was also made by Gazprom Transgaz Ukhta LLC. In 2009, the company filed an application with the Supreme Court of the Russian Federation to challenge SP 2.1.7.1386-03″. The statement states that they were adopted by the Chief State Sanitary Doctor of the Russian Federation with excess of authority, do not comply with Articles 14, 20 of the Federal Law “On Production and Consumption Waste”, paragraph 1 of Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation of October 26, 2000 N 818, paragraph 5.3.7 Regulations on the Federal Service for Environmental, Technological and Nuclear Supervision, approved by Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation of July 30, 2004 N 401, and unlawfully impose on Gazprom Transgaz Ukhta LLC the responsibility for establishing the hazard classes of all waste generated by society, according to the degree of their toxicity .
However, the Supreme Court reviewed the case materials and found the application not to be satisfied. From clause 1.1 of the Sanitary Rules it follows that they were developed in accordance with Federal Law of March 30, 1999 N 52-FZ, Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation of July 24, 2000 N 554. Clause 2 of Article 51 of Law No. 52-FZ as amended in force on On the day of adoption of the joint venture, the Chief State Sanitary Doctor of the Russian Federation was vested with advising powers.
By virtue of paragraph 1 of Article 2 of this Federal Law, legal regulation in the field of waste management can be carried out by other laws and other regulatory legal acts of the Russian Federation. These include, in particular, the Federal Law “On the Sanitary and Epidemiological Welfare of the Population” and the Regulations approved by Resolution No. 554, in pursuance of which the Sanitary Rules were adopted. According to paragraph 1 of Article 14 of the Federal Law “On Industrial and Consumption Waste,” hazardous waste is divided into hazard classes in accordance with the criteria established by the federal executive authorities in the field of waste management in accordance with their competence.
Thus, the legislator stipulates that such federal executive authorities independently establish the criteria by which waste is divided into hazard classes. Sanitary rules, differentiating waste into four hazard classes, were introduced in order to establish and prevent the harmful effects of toxic waste on the environment and human health. Taking into account the above, the Sanitary Rules and other documents do not contradict. By decision of May 26, 2009 N GKPI09-385 of the Supreme Court, the application was rejected. In the future, judicial practice also develops mainly not in favor of natural resource users.
On the decision of the Moscow Arbitration Court dated August 12, 2013 in case No. A40-68900/13
During a scheduled on-site inspection, it was found that for various construction waste generated during technological processes and operation of buildings and structures, the enterprise has not determined and has not agreed with the institution exercising state sanitary and epidemiological control, the hazard classes of production and consumption waste for public health and the human environment, which is a violation of clause 2.10 SP 2.1.7.1386-03.
On May 8, 2013, an official of the Department drew up a protocol on an administrative offense against LLC “...” and issued Resolution No. 503 of May 21, 2013 imposing an administrative penalty. The Moscow Arbitration Court examined the evidence presented. Thus, from the stage of waste generation, a legal entity is responsible for determining the hazard classes of waste generated as a result of its economic activities and their coordination with the institution exercising state sanitary and epidemiological control in the relevant territory.
However, in the process of carrying out business activities, the Company did not ensure compliance with the above requirements. By decision of August 12, 2013, the Moscow Arbitration Court refused to satisfy the stated demands of LLC “...”, the applicant’s guilt was proven, confirmed by relevant evidence, materials of the administrative case and constitutes an administrative offense under Article 8.2 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation.
Advantages of locating a furnace with an external fuel channel
Sauna stoves with an external fuel channel can be made of cast iron or steel. The design of this device differs from a conventional furnace for heating a bath precisely in the presence of a remote firebox, which can be removable - in heavy cast iron versions of products, or have an integral structure - in steel models. Thanks to this configuration of the stove, the combustion chamber door is moved into the room adjacent to the steam room or even outside.
Moving the furnace firebox into the dressing room provides many advantages during operation:
- When the stove is fired, two rooms are heated at once - the steam room and the dressing room.
- It becomes possible to add firewood, constantly supporting the combustion process while the steam room is in use.
- Since there will be no need to open and close the firebox door from the steam room side, the stove can be protected with a safety barrier (brick screen), which will eliminate the risk of burn injuries during water procedures.
- Garbage, which is often brought into the room along with firewood, will not get into the steam room.
- It becomes possible to place a niche next to the firebox for drying firewood, which, of course, cannot be done in a steam room.
- It ensures that clean air is maintained in the steam room, since when the door is opened to add firewood, gaseous products of wood combustion can enter the room in small quantities.
- The absence of a firebox door in a steam room will significantly save the free space of the room, and so, as a rule, it will not be too voluminous. Therefore, it becomes possible to install the heating device in a convenient location on the wall dividing the room.
However, it must be taken into account that modern factory-made appliances are equipped with a glass cooling system installed in the combustion door. Therefore, the waiting room will not warm up properly. And in order for heat to flow more intensely into the dressing room, you will have to open the combustion chamber door slightly - this factor must also be taken into account when choosing a place to install the stove. If the device cannot be installed so that the open door does not interfere with free passage, then in winter this room will require additional heating.
Prices for a stove in a bathhouse
sauna stove As an example, the design of the Termofor Kalina Inox BSE anthracite NV PRA stove
The remote fuel channel can be rectangular, or have a narrowed shape near the firebox. Panoramic heat-resistant glass installed in the door not only allows you to control the fuel combustion process, but also gives the design an aesthetically pleasing appearance to the fireplace. If the dressing room is used as a relaxation room, then you can install chairs in front of this “fireplace” and, while relaxing after visiting the steam room, admire the play of the flames.
The system that cools the glass also performs the function of cleaning it, so soot does not accumulate on the inner surface, and it always remains transparent.
Installing a stove with the combustion channel removed to the dressing room provides a lot of operational advantages. The disadvantages are minor, and the most significant of them is more worries when installing the device.
The fuel channel of a sauna stove can even be taken outside. This is usually done in the following cases:
- When the steam room and dressing room have a very small area.
- If the stove is planned to be heated with coal, which traditionally leaves a lot of dirt behind, and its combustion products are quite toxic.
- In the case when the bathhouse is used for commercial purposes, that is, it is temporarily rented out to strangers. And its owner acts as a stoker, who does not disturb clients with his presence at all.
In some cases, this option is also used - the firebox window is generally placed outside
In other cases, a stove installed in this way will be extremely inconvenient to operate, especially in winter. Agree, there is little joy when you have to jump out into the street in order to add firewood to the firebox.
The only advantages of moving the furnace of a sauna stove outside are the absence of garbage in the premises and the fact that the fuel does not have to be brought inside the sauna.
Kinds
Depending on the location of the tank relative to the furnace, they are divided into the following subtypes:
With mounting tank
Wood-burning stove Zhara-Malyutka 700PU. Dobrostal Photos
The most ancient method of heating: the oven was made in such a way that there was free space on its upper surface or even a special recess was made for a container of water.
The water warmed up well, located in a container directly above the firebox. And the heater was next door to it.
Today you have at your disposal many models of stoves that allow, if necessary, to install an upper tank, which, by the way, can most often be purchased from the manufacturer at the same time as the stove.
As an example, we can name the “Zhara-Malyutka” 700PU oven. It is equipped with a 50-liter water tank (there is a 30-liter option).
With mounted or attached
Sauna stove with water tank - a hinged type of tank
The location in this case is the same, but the fastening may be different. Such a tank receives heat from the side wall of the furnace. At the same time, manufacturers let the owner decide on which side of the stove the water tank will be located - this is essential for baths with a small steam room space.
The side tank can either be hung on special hooks, or simply placed on a pad - heat transfer will take place in any case, but not very much.
An example is Ermak stoves, which can be equipped with mounted tanks.
With built-in
It is difficult to classify such tanks as a separate type, because in practice it is still the same container located on the side, only without the possibility of removing it. Some manufacturers continue to make similar designs. As an example, let’s take the Siberia stove, which is made by NMK.
Bath stove with water tank Kastor - built-in tank
With external
Regardless of which room the hot water tank will be placed in, the design will be the same. If all previous tanks were in one way or another in direct contact with the furnace, then this type is located at a considerable distance, so heating is carried out using a heat exchanger.
You can read about the types of heat exchangers on our website in the article dedicated to them.
Most often, remote tanks are used to not only supply the washroom with hot water, but also to heat the room in which the tank is located. By the way, there are several options:
- Some people prefer to take the tank to the washing room;
- others place it in the dressing room;
- still others are left in the steam room;
- the fourth are taken to the attic.
If the first three differ little from each other, then the last option has functional significance. You probably know that for gravitational pressure you need to raise the water tank as high as possible. If you just hang the tank on the wall, you are unlikely to be able to wash yourself in the shower. But if you lift the tank into the attic, then washing in the shower, which is usual for a city dweller, becomes quite possible.
ADVICE! The heat loss from an uninsulated tank in the attic will be too great. Therefore, such a tank is usually lined with one or another heat insulator, maybe even with foil.
There are many examples of remote tanks. Almost every manufacturer has them along with heat exchangers.
Wood-burning sauna stoves with a tank are a remote type of tank.
With a tank on the chimney
Sauna stove with a tank on the chimney.
We have already mentioned the advantages of such tanks above. Now it's time to clarify their design. The fact is that you always have a choice: attach to the chimney a full-fledged tank of tens of liters or a small one of 5-10 liters, which will serve as a heat exchanger, that is, transfer heat further to a large tank.
Both options increase the efficiency of the furnace, but there will still be some heat loss when transferred to a remote reservoir.
Choosing a sauna stove with a separate sink and steam room
Any bathhouse should be equipped with a sink and a steam room. To effectively use space, many owners install a special stove. It divides the bathhouse into two rooms.
How to choose?
To know how to choose a stove for a sauna with a separate steam room and sink, you should use the following tips:
- The fryer must have high thermal power, sufficient to heat the steam room and water in the washing room, as well as provide steam. For each room, this indicator is individual and depends on the size of the heated area and the material from which the bathhouse is made.
- A properly selected design is compact in size, easy to use and eliminates the possibility of fire.
- The stove must be equipped with a high-quality steam generator and heat accumulator. This is necessary in order to easily set the desired mode that determines the type of bath: from real Russian to dry Finnish.
- It is necessary that the roaster be equipped with tools to adjust the convection.
- There should be no significant areas on the furnace structure whose temperature may exceed 150 degrees.
- If you are offered a brick or metal Dutch oven, opt for the latter option. Metal stoves are capable of heating a steam room with high speed and efficiency, take up less space, do not require a foundation, and are easy to use and maintain.
This is what a sauna stove with a separate sink and steam room looks like:
Popular models
Let's look at sauna stoves with a separate sink and steam room from several manufacturers, and compare their prices and characteristics.
Mounting and installation
Sauna stoves with a separate sink and steam room from well-known brands are usually installed by employees of the manufacturer or according to the individual instructions supplied.
But you can also install it yourself using the following approximate algorithm and diagram:
Layout of the furnace and remote tank:
3 different connection diagrams for elements:
Installation tips:
- The design of the furnace does not require a special foundation, but the foundation for it must be prepared. It is performed using brickwork. The base area is 70x70 cm, the height should be more than 10 cm.
- Cover the walls adjacent to the stove using bricks and insulate them with heat-insulating materials.
- If you plan to heat the stove from the waiting room, make a hole “with a reserve” in the partition between it and the steam room.
- On the prepared base, lay a layer of heat insulation material and an iron sheet on which the furnace structure is installed. The firebox is inserted into the partition.
- Fill the stove with stones.
- Cover the floor boards with a metal apron, which is secured over a sheet of thermal insulation.
- Mount the decorative trim on the front section of the firebox, install the ash pan and the door.
- Install the pipe. If the roof is flat, the height of the pipe should be more than half a meter, if it is gable - more than one and a half meters.
- Weld a metal screen to the predetermined contact point between the ceiling and the pipe. This part reliably connects the two halves of the pipe and protects the ceiling from elevated temperatures.
- The water tank, as well as the heat exchanger, should be installed simultaneously with the main pipe.
A stove in a bathhouse with a washing room and steam room is a reasonable solution for a small area. The modern market offers a large number of stove options. The choice should be made based on the size of the room, the desired heat capacity, the dimensions of the structure, and your personal preferences. Our recommendations will help with this.
Choosing a sauna stove with a separate sink and steam room
Features of choosing and installing a stove for a bath with a separate sink and steam room. Examples of optimal furnace models from different manufacturers are given.
Preparation of mortar for masonry
You can purchase a ready-made solution in a store or use a sand-clay mixture.
To determine the best ratio of sand and clay, make a small batch from which a cylinder or bar is formed. Pay attention to the possible appearance of cracks, the absence of which is an indicator of quality
Preparing masonry mortar for a stove in a bathhouse
It is preferable to use clay used for masonry from deep layers, without earthen and mechanical impurities.
To give the clay the required consistency and plasticity, it is kept in water for several days, after which it is ground through a sieve to remove debris. A 1:1 proportion of clay and sand is considered good; liquid is added to it in small portions. A high-quality mixture does not stick to the trowel and does not drip from it. When running a trowel over the solution, the mark left behind should not blur or have a torn structure. To improve the quality of the masonry, add rock salt at the rate of 0.1 kg per bucket of finished mortar. It is also good to add cement and fireclay powder.
When is protection needed at all?
The need to install protective casings and screens does not always arise. If a fire-safe distance is maintained between the stove and the nearest flammable surface, additional protection is not needed. At this distance, the IR rays are scattered, weakened, and the amount of them that the wooden wall receives can no longer lead to damage.
It is believed that the safe distance from the wall to the brick stove (quarter-brick laying) is at least 0.32 m, from the wall to the metal stove (not lined) - at least 1 m. For a metal stove lined from the inside with brick or fireclay, the distance decreases to 0.7 m.
Thus, maintaining fire safety distances is more possible in large baths, where the issue of saving space is not relevant. In family steam rooms, where every centimeter of space counts, installing a stove 0.3-1 m from the nearest walls is impractical. In this case, the safety distances established by the standards must be reduced using screens and casings.
Conclusion
The importance of the above-mentioned bath structure cannot be overestimated, therefore the design of this stage of construction should be carried out at the very beginning. Remember that the safety you provide is exactly the factor that will allow you to enjoy the bathhouse and your work for many years! During the heating of the bath, the surface of the stove heats up to 300-400°C
At the same time, it begins to emit infrared rays and itself becomes a source of heating. The coming heat is distributed throughout the steam room, but first of all it hits the walls adjacent to the stove. If the walls are wooden, then under the influence of high temperatures their charring begins. And there it’s already a stone’s throw away! The only truly effective way to insulate wooden walls from heat is to create protective screens and cladding from non-combustible materials in the bathhouse.
During the heating of the bath, the surface of the stove heats up to 300-400°C. At the same time, it begins to emit infrared rays and itself becomes a source of heating. The coming heat is distributed throughout the steam room, but first of all it hits the walls adjacent to the stove. If the walls are wooden, then under the influence of high temperatures their charring begins. And there it’s already a stone’s throw away! The only truly effective way to insulate wooden walls from heat is to create protective screens and cladding from non-combustible materials in the bathhouse.
Protective screen for the stove in the steam room
A protective screen for a stove in a steam room can be made from more modern materials if you want it to be very beautiful. Now there are a lot of facing materials for any budget that can be used for screen construction:
- fired clay terracotta tiles
- clinker tiles: also made of clay
- natural soapstone: especially attractive for steam baths for its healing properties. On sale are square tiles of various sizes (300x300m or less), 10mm thick, polished or polished, rectangular bricks 20mm thick, looking like torn stone.
But you can’t just make cladding from this material on logs; you’ll have to build a base for the tiles. That is, first sheathe a wall with a ventilation gap of 2-3 cm with fire-resistant sheet material (and only then lay stone or tiles on it), such as:
- cement fiber board Minerit
- glass-magnesium sheet (GML)
- fireproof plasterboard (GKLO)
If you do not have high aesthetic demands on the protective screen for the stove in the steam room, then the easiest way is to sheathe the walls with the above gap with fire-resistant sheet material without further expensive tiling, such as vermiculite slabs, which, however, have a quite presentable appearance and have all the necessary qualities:
- environmentally friendly
- fire resistant
- fireproof
- easy to install
We can also recommend fiber cement board, which is a non-flammable material, can withstand temperatures of 150 degrees, does not emit harmful substances, is easy to clean and wash, does not rot and is resistant to fungi.
Conclusion: if you make a protective screen for a stove in a bathhouse with your own hands, then it is better to give preference to constructing a boundary wall made of bricks or lining the wooden walls of the steam room with vermiculite slabs.
Briefly about the main thing
Screens around the sauna stove are installed to protect people from burns and flammable structures from damage and ignition.
Enclosing structures are assembled from wood with fire-retardant impregnation, stone/brick or metal on top of a frame with expanded clay inside.
For wall cladding, a pie is often constructed from a double layer of thermal insulation and polished stainless steel sheets; less often, panels are assembled for the facing material.
Only non-flammable materials with a low thermal conductivity coefficient can act as thermal insulators: stone or basalt wool, asbestos or basalt cardboard, mineralite.
Heat-resistant or clinker tiles are used to cover the walls next to the stove.
It is important at the stage of design, construction and repair to maintain the standard distance between the stove and flammable materials, depending on the type of protective design solution and composition.
The floor is protected from overheating by rigid platforms made of natural or artificial stone, brick or cast iron.
Ratings 0
Additional aspects
It is worth understanding that not all situations require a protective screen at all. For example, for brick kilns with an initially protected firebox, fences are not required. If the screen needs to be installed, then red ceramic materials are selected for it, capable of withstanding severe temperature changes and exposure to moisture.
Conclusion
A DIY sauna stove screen is an important sauna structure that can prevent accidental burns and balance the operation of the stove. By implementing one of the proposed schemes, you can achieve a combination of protection efficiency, good functionality of the stove and good visual qualities of the entire system.
Functions
The protective screen performs the following important functions:
- Protects against thermal burns;
- Prevents burning out of surrounding flammable objects;
- Decorates the interior space of the bathhouse.
It is for these reasons that a stainless steel protective screen for a bathhouse or brick is an extremely important attribute on which it is unacceptable to skimp.
Why and when is a protective screen required?
Heat from the stove is transferred to people and surrounding objects in two ways:
- through air; when heated, the air transfers the generated heat;
- through infrared radiation.
Only the first option is suitable for people - it is safe and comfortable. When taking bath procedures, you can always easily and quickly increase the temperature in the steam room. It is enough to moisten the stones. But, unfortunately, we also have to deal with infrared radiation. The latter is characteristic of all heated objects.
The temperature of the sauna stove reaches 300-400 degrees and higher. At such a high temperature of the metal walls, a powerful stream of infrared radiation is formed, which can lead to burns. The problem is especially relevant for small home baths, where there is nowhere to hide from the negative flow.
Mid-price ovens are in many cases equipped with metal convection protection. Expensive models are shielded with ceramic or stone cladding, which also plays a decorative role. But inexpensive and “handicraft” models almost never have thermal insulation.
Brick (or, less preferably, metal) protection is required in such cases:
- when the body of a freestanding metal stove is not covered with anything;
- if the factory shielding is made poorly and does not protect well from thermal radiation;
- if the heat generator is equipped with casing, but is installed too close to a wall made of flammable materials; Since most often the walls in steam rooms are wooden, providing protection is necessary in most cases.
Situations where sauna stoves are made entirely of brick are rare. Such structures take up a lot of space and therefore require large premises. Much more often we deal with small-sized steam rooms, for which the described situations are true.
Installation Requirements
In 1991, SNiP requirements were approved that determine the distances from heating elements. They indicate the following distances:
- from the wall surface to the heater there must be at least 38 cm for protected surfaces and from 50 cm for unprotected surfaces;
- to protected walls – 38 cm;
- all opposite walls - from 1.25 m.
According to Finnish standards, it is allowed to protect walls made of wood material with basalt material, metal, or galvanized corrugation. Screens must ensure that there are no gap areas to prevent contact of the flame with combustible materials, and that the outer surfaces are heated to a temperature not exceeding the melting or ignition point.
Warming up and insulating the dressing room
Between the locker room/rest room on one side and the steam room on the other, ideally there is a smooth transition between temperature conditions.
There are four options to achieve this:
- The stove opens into both rooms.
- An additional partition between the steam room and the dressing room, combined with the relaxation room.
- Part of the heated air is supplied from the steam room.
- There is a washing room on the direct path from the dressing room to the steam room.
It is also necessary to take care of the insulation of the room. The floor, walls and ceiling are insulated from the cold. Often they use foil insulation, but on a thick layer the foil should be laid manually.
Mineral wool, polystyrene foam and other foam materials, as well as expanded clay, are suitable for insulating the dressing room, but mineral wool will be the best in structure, especially if it is foil-coated
Floor insulation begins by nailing smaller cranial bars to the lower parts of the joists, located in increments of 45-55 cm, longitudinally to the base. A rough covering is placed on top - oblong or wide boards. The subfloor is formed as a continuous floor.
The resulting structure is covered with a waterproofing membrane. Place it so that the layer is completely pressed against the protruding joists. Then, in the space between these slats, a proportionate piece of insulating fabric is laid: slightly larger in width, length and height. Mineral wool is also suitable as thermal insulation. They take more of it, since the material is highly compressed.
A vapor barrier is laid above with a slight overlap on the walls. In the process, pipes that will be in the thickness of the floor or below are insulated.
All that remains is to make the floor itself. The surface can be paved with tiles or boards. Usually they choose wood, this creates a warm floor and maintains the unity of the interiors. The covering must be made continuous, moving the boards as close as possible to each other.
The finishing deteriorates most under the ceiling, so use a thick layer of insulation. Thermal insulation can be collected on the ceiling, between the planks. Place a vapor barrier below, insulation above, then waterproof it. You can cover the top with cement screed and wooden boards.
You can read more about ceiling insulation in this material.
Option for thermal insulation of the ceiling above the dressing room: densely laid expanded clay, hidden in two layers of vapor barrier, and a wooden plank floor without screed
Log houses can be insulated in the finished building, but it is worth planning thermal insulation in advance. It is also worth taking care of the insulation of the front door.
Due to thermal barriers, they effectively combat excess moisture, but condensation can be avoided completely if you constantly do certain things. Keep doors closed and only open briefly. Adjust the shutters in the ventilation grilles.
Use plugs especially during warm-up. After procedures, cool the dressing room through open doors and windows. At the same time, allow short-term drafts. Ventilate each room in turn - through their windows.
Chimney for sauna stove
To remove combustion products from metal sauna stoves, the chimney can be made of brick, metal or ceramics, and there are three types depending on location:
Mounted chimneys are built on top of the heating device and are its continuation. It is this type of construction that is most often chosen for installation above a metal furnace, and sandwich pipes have recently been most often used for it.
Root chimney - there are no restrictions, but still it is rare in bathhouses.
Prices for chimney pipes
chimney pipes
- Main chimneys are a free-standing brick structure to which a sauna stove can also be connected. To build this type of chimney, it is necessary to build a separate foundation for it. If the bathhouse is planned to be located in the area of the house where the stove or fireplace will be built, or in an adjacent extension, then sometimes one common main chimney can be installed for them. But this case is clearly atypical.
- Wall chimneys are a type of flue duct installed in the brick wall of a house. If the bathhouse is built of brick, then you can use this design. However, it has one significant drawback, since the pipe actually runs completely along the street, there is a risk of condensation occurring in it, which can negatively affect the performance of the stove. Therefore, wall chimneys require high-quality insulation. It is also rarely considered as an option.
Chimneys for a sauna stove can be made of different materials - it can be brick, ceramics, metal or insulated sandwich pipes.
The sandwich chimney can be located indoors and pass through the ceilings and roof, or it can be directly discharged through the wall to the outside.
As shown in the illustration above, the chimney can be installed indoors or almost immediately connected to an external wall
The obvious disadvantages of the internal arrangement of the pipe include the complexity of installation work, since careful insulation of penetrations through the ceiling and roof is required. If the joining seams of individual parts of the sandwich pipe are damaged, combustion products will enter the steam room, which is not immediately noticeable, and this is dangerous for the lives of people in the room.
External chimneys are led out into the street through the wall, and then rise to a set height along its outer surface. Therefore, they are easier to install both in a bathhouse under construction and in an already built one. Higher level of operational safety, more accessible maintenance.
The disadvantages of this arrangement include the need for additional insulation and careful sealing of the pipe passage through the wall. However, if correctly selected sandwich pipes are used to construct the chimney, then their additional insulation will not be required.
Sandwich pipe prices
sandwich pipes
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So, the installation of a sauna stove with an external firebox must be carefully calculated, and the parameters prescribed in SNiP must be observed without any simplification. It must be remembered that the safe operation of not only the stove, but also the entire structure of the bathhouse, especially if it is built of wood, depends on the correct installation and insulation of metal structural elements from flammable surfaces.
At the end of the publication, there is a video in which I show an example of installing a sauna stove with the firebox leading into the dressing room.
Cleaning loose tiles
If there is a supply of facing material, then use it, or buy the same ceramics; if not, the fallen off finishing is cleaned of the solution. To do this effectively, in a ceramic-friendly way, use an angle grinder with a dry cutting disc. The tiles are soaked in water for half an hour to soften the glue and reduce the amount of dust. Then the ceramics are laid face down on a flat wooden surface, pressed with a clamp through a rubber pad and the old mortar is cut off or ground off at an acute angle to the surface. The edges of the tiles are cleaned of grout with sandpaper.
How to make a protective screen for a sauna stove with your own hands?
Rest assured that there is nothing difficult in creating a protective screen for a bathhouse with your own hands.
It is recommended to prepare all the necessary materials and tools in advance, as otherwise this will significantly slow down the progress of work. Having everything you need will help not only not to stop construction and installation, but also will not confuse the overall “engineering idea”.
Made of brick
Brick and concrete mixture are used as the main working material. Mixtures that are designed for use at high temperatures should be used. If you do not want to spend money on purchasing it, then you should add clay to the standard mixture. This will strengthen the future structure.
When calculating, it is necessary to take into account three parameters to determine the required amount of brick, namely:
- Width;
- Height;
- Length.
Keep in mind that in the masonry it is necessary to calculate an additional few millimeters between the bricks for the concrete mixture.
- The manufacturing process is no different from laying bricks. All that needs to be done is to create a kind of brick “fence” around the stove of the required height.
- After installation, it takes at least 5-7 days for the solution to dry completely. A longer period is required due to the confined space - the solution dries worse in it.
- After completing the last stage of work, you should additionally check the strength of the masonry. If necessary, additional basalt slabs can be installed on top of the brick to provide greater security.
Waste management activities
Waste management includes activities related to the collection, accumulation, transportation, processing, disposal, neutralization and disposal of waste.
All of the listed types, except for waste accumulation, are specific. To carry out these types of waste management, it is necessary to obtain a license in accordance with Federal Law-89 and Federal Law-99. In the process of obtaining a license, one of the stages is to obtain from Rospotrebnadzor a sanitary and epidemiological conclusion on the compliance of the declared types of activities/works/services with state sanitary and epidemiological rules and regulations. During the examination of materials justifying such activities, Rospotrebnadzor always requests a calculation of the toxicity class of the waste (what is commonly called a “toxicity passport”). However, the accumulation of waste for a period of no more than 11 months is carried out by absolutely all users of natural resources who generate waste and who are not required to license this activity. Thus, ordinary offices, institutions, and small enterprises that transfer their waste to third parties and do not apply for a license are also required to determine the toxicity class for each transport shipment.
In previous years, Rospotrebnadzor was not particularly persistent in terms of universal compliance with paragraph 2.9 of the Rules, but now information appears about instructions to ordinary natural resource users about the need to eliminate violations of the law in this matter, not to mention those enterprises that received a license after once calculating the toxicity class of their waste and forgetting about it. Determining the toxicity of each transport batch is a financially expensive matter. In addition, Rospotrebnadzor and its subordinate centers of hygiene and epidemiology are directly involved in this. Their services are not cheap, and the work is not completed in one day, so temporary downtime in waste removal is inevitable.
Please note that paragraph 2.9 stipulates that it is not necessary to determine the hazard class of each transport batch of waste in the case of waste storage at landfills (storage sites) of the enterprise; in this case, the selection is carried out once every 3 years. But the fact is that the concept of “waste storage” is not legally enshrined; it is an outdated term, which is now similar to the term “disposal (storage, burial)”, and the period of placement now starts from 11 months, and not from 3 years
The definition of warehousing is only in GOST.
Thus, the lack of unity of terminology in environmental and sanitary legislation becomes the cause of abuse and excessive demands on natural resource users.